Spania
Santo Domingo de la Calzada

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    • Dag 21

      Belorado (22.6km / 233.3km)

      3. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      We left at Sunrise as a hot day was predicted and we had a lot of ground to cover. An absolutely gorgeous morning with the beautiful farmlands we’ve become accustomed to gave a spring to our step. We walked with a lovely Frenchman and reached our coffee stop (7km) in no time.
      They had a caravan at the entrance to the village and a garden area to sit.
      After breakfast we walked very close to the main road with trucks, cars and dust! On the Camino!! We passed through so many villages today, some less than 2km apart which made it seem shorter somehow.
      We pushed through to have a late lunch and left only 5km for the last stretch.
      The town of Belorado has many murals to liven up the town which seems to have many empty apartments?
      We were both happy that we did a relatively long day without too much trouble - the only thing is the “feet”!
      We tucked into the Pilgrim meal of the day chatting to a Dutch couple next to us and then hit bed!
      Les mer

    • Dag 12

      San Domingo to Belorado - no rain

      2. juni, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      The highlight (or one of them) of today was that it didn’t rain even tho some forecasts said it would and there was a lot of gloom about. Anyway it didn’t and was actually pretty perfect walking weather. Not quite as cold as yesterday with the odd bit of sun.
      The walk wasn’t hugely exciting with long stretches of senda (by the road). Started about 7 and arrived in Belorado by 12.30. Horse of the day appeared complete with caballero just before we reached the town - fab horse and friendly rider.
      This town is having a festival - apparently something to do with king alfonso so everyone including the hospitaleros are dressed in medieval costumes and there is music and the odd random parade.
      Once we had checked in we went to find a drink and bumped into Nick and Paul. Then went back to shower. Returned to the square to find a cup of tea and met up with Linda Bernie and David and there was finally a bit of sun!
      Dinner at the hostal where most others were staying - a vegetarian menu with four (!) choices for each course. Wonderful and fun meal with other pilgrims including new people from Spain Japan and Scotland. All heading the same way tomorrow and will all be in Burgos the day after, but, as accommodation is scarce on this next section, staying a a variety of different places in different villages.
      Dive bombed by swifts walking to and from dinner and they are darting around under our bedroom window too.
      Les mer

    • Dag 11

      Nàjera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      14. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Slept well. It was really difficult communicating with the guy in the accommodation (La Cepa). I think he was South American and had a speech impediment so it was a real struggle to understand his Spanish.

      Had to start late as it's Sunday and the earliest taxi I could get to the starting point was 9.30am. Just stopped once today for about 30mins. It was in Azofra for coffee and water. It rained most of the day and was really cold. Think it's going to be like that for the next few days.
      Booked an amazing hotel and had a long bath.
      Laundrette time again and it was busy. Got speaking to folk in there and 5 of us shared a machine. (2 South Koreans , 1 Spanish, 1 Italian) This is a lovely old town.. Loads of local families out for food. Had dinner with 6 Italians and a German. Was able to speak to Jakub from Germany, Miguel from Bologna and Gabriel from Roma as they spoke English/Spanish. Mushroom festival was amazing. Was chatting to Julianna from Brazil/Portugal/Holland and Maria from San Sebastian for ages. We met in the Laundrette earlier🤣. 22km to Belorado tomorrow. Might walk late as have the great room til 12.
      Les mer

    • Dag 11

      Najera to San Domingo - cold but lovely

      1. juni, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Set off at 7 this morning after a night punctuated by loud revels outside the window. It really didn’t look like a party town but clearly transformed after we turned in for the night!
      A beautiful morning - unexpected because the forecast was just for cloud.
      Quite an easy 20k today with lots of glorious views - again I would love to be able to paint but I don’t have a painterly bone in my body.
      San Domingo is the cathedral town with the interesting story about chickens (see last year’s blog). The one place where it looked as if I could eat something doesn’t open for food until 8 so not sure that’s a runner
      Instead persuaded a bar to make me a cheese sandwich and chips so all good!
      Cress is doing lots of drawing and I have caught up with my Spanish following a walk around the town and the cathedral. Still in search of ‘horse of the day’ for liv so will go about again in a minute so look for it.
      I think the pictures will be more interesting than the words today!
      Had a glass of wine in a sunny square by the cathedral with lots of music and dancing from supporters of the local football team - assume they won today. Then another glass of wine with Bernie, David and Linda back at the sandwich place. Major works going on to erect a functioning tv outside for the champions league final - might be another noisy night but think we are facing the right way tonight.
      Met up with Nick from last year who is the same as ever minus calf injury so he’s carrying his bag. Will be good to spend a bit of time with him again
      Les mer

    • Dag 8–9

      Day 7 Navarrete/Santo Domingo de Calzad

      3. mai, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      36.5km (212.6 from start). 46.000 steps. 7h 15min on the road, including breaks. 2400 calories and 5.8 km/h average speed.

      Hostel in Navarrete is not getting any stars from me. No dinner, no breakfast. Old hostel and small rooms. When 12 people share so little space, it is challenging.

      Anyway, my Garmin gave me 93% on sleep quality 😂 Slept from 21:38 to 06:15 - my earplugs are very effective.

      Camino’s longest stage today. 36.5km after 34km yesterday and I am actually feeling ok. Even had energy to wash my clothes and take a walk to nearest supermarket.

      Day today was in solitude. Alone and first time with earphones. Good old 80’s and endless fields of wine yards. We are in Rioja and it is beautiful. I enjoyed so much today’s stage.

      Private room in Room Concept Hostels. Will take luxury breakfast at 7:30 and will not start walking before 8am - only 23km tomorrow.
      Les mer

    • Dag 12

      Part 2 of Day 9

      I går, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      In the rock memorial photo, did you find our rock? Today we did not see many of our Camino peregrinos. Some stayed behind in the previous town and took a zero day or and some walked further than us. At the Sametime, we met new peregrinos. Kim from Portland is a lovely person and we're having a great time enjoying the towns and sharing a few beers. When we got to the albergue, they had a roaring fire and it was so cozy. Wish I had a Pic to show u.Les mer

    • Dag 13

      Domestic bliss

      4. april, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      From last leaving Logrono to first checking in to Santo Domingo, what a difference two days makes. This isn't as impressive as it sounds, more likely everyone else just pushed on and I was the first not to. Regardless, it gave me the run of the place to settle in.

      This always looks broadly similar, so here it is for you to imagine we're doing it together.

      1. Take a seat opposite the hospitalero in charge, offer them your passport and your credential and watch as they scan one and stamp the other. Take the slip with your bed number on it, listen to the house guide (where everything is, what time the door closes, what time to be out tomorrow) and receive your crinkly plastic present.

      2. Take your shoes off and put them in the side room, changing into your sandals - these should be at the very top of your bag.

      3. Poke your head around checking out the place as you find your room and then your bed, don't put your backpack on it!

      4. If you're responsible, immediately make the bed using the disposable pillow case and fitted sheet you've been provided, and unsheathe your sleeping bag. I've just started being responsible, so I can say this.

      4. Unpack your bag onto the bed, releasing your

      - charger and book (install these near the head of your bed)

      - medicine canister (put this in the fridge and the cool brick inside in the freezer, if there is one)

      - rest clothes, clean underwear and socks, soap, and towel

      5. Shower and change into rest clothes. Nobody showers in the morning, as far as we're all concerned the day resets after you walk.

      6. Take your walking clothes and towel to the laundry room, wash them and hang to dry.

      The day is now yours, admin is over, and the town sort of goes to sleep between 2 and 5pm anyway. I sat in the garden with my book, which I really am loving, had a nap (the last few days caught up with me), went to the supermarket and cooked dinner, then went for a long walk around the town.

      Before bed, put absolutely everything loose into your bag so that in the morning you can get up, grab your sleeping bag and your pack, and leave the room swiftly and silently. Pack up in a common area while you sip your coffee. Not everyone has this step down yet but give them time.
      Les mer

    • Dag 14

      To Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      13. september 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      We had an uneventful walk today with not a lot of interesting scenery, but we love Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It’s old town is very medieval and has quite the history.

      The town takes its name after Saint Dominic (the name literally means Saint Dominic of the road) who dedicated his life to improving the conditions of pilgrims en route to Santiago in the Middle Ages, building pilgrim hospitals, roads, and bridges along The Way.

      Santo Domingo de la Calzada is also famous for the so-called ‘miracle of the hen’, considered to be the most famous of the Middle Ages and the Camino de Santiago.

      According to the legend, a German young man and his family were traveling as pilgrims to Santiago. On the way, they stopped in Santo Domingo de la Calzada for the night, where he rejected the advances of the inn keeper’s daughter. Upset with the rejection, the young woman hid a silver cup in the pilgrim’s bag, who would be later accused of theft and condemned to death.

      On their return from Santiago de Compostela, his parents went back to Santo Domingo de la Calzada to give the final farewell to their son and found him still alive, thanks to the intervention of Saint Dominic who knew of the young man’s innocence.

      Surprised by such a miracle, the parents went to the authorities to let them know. The Corregidor (sheriff) of Santo Domingo being skeptical replied that their son would be as alive as the roasted cockerel and hen he was going to eat that very moment. As he pronounced these words, the rooster and hen instantly got up on the plate, their white feathers grew back and they started to sing.

      And ever since, it is said about the town: ‘Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the hen sang after being roasted.”

      In memory of this miracle, a rooster and chicken, with white feathers, are kept alive at the cathedral all year round. 🐓🙂

      We had a great evening visiting with other pilgrims in one of the squares. 🙂
      Les mer

    • Dag 20

      On the road again! Rest stop in Grañon

      25. mai, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      We left the comfort of the parador and now we're on the road to an algergue with a bunk and a pool. 22 km day today, left a little later, 9 am. Time for a Zuma de naranga and to rest the feet for a minute.Les mer

    • Dag 19–20

      Almost paradise at the Paradore

      24. mai, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      Well, after a 20K walk through the Rioja region farmland, we have arrived in an Oasis of historical luxury at the Parador de Santa Dominica. Not exactly a pilgrim hang out at all, but we decided to splurge. We checked in with a group of British car touring people with fancy cars right at the front door. I'm sure they were Lords and ladies, lol!

      It was a hot long walk, with only one bar rest stop, we made great time leaving just before 9:00 and getting here just before 3:00. We met new pilgrims along the way and chatted which makes the time pass by.

      There were peas and wheat and barley and grape vines and olives and peaches and cherry tea along the gravel road. We walked next to the old clay aqueducts lining the sides of the fields, still functioning with water flowing through them. We were only next to the highway for a little while but our path was far enough away that it did not matter.

      The Parador is a restored hospital, that used to be a Oasis for Pilgrims now or is a luxury destination. It has beautiful terracotta floors and marble bathrooms and we truly have gone into a vortex. Now time for a shower and to put on some sandals and head out to the streets to find a meal and a cold drink.
      Les mer

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