Spain
Santo Domingo de la Calzada

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    • Day 12

      San Domingo to Belorado - no rain

      June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      The highlight (or one of them) of today was that it didn’t rain even tho some forecasts said it would and there was a lot of gloom about. Anyway it didn’t and was actually pretty perfect walking weather. Not quite as cold as yesterday with the odd bit of sun.
      The walk wasn’t hugely exciting with long stretches of senda (by the road). Started about 7 and arrived in Belorado by 12.30. Horse of the day appeared complete with caballero just before we reached the town - fab horse and friendly rider.
      This town is having a festival - apparently something to do with king alfonso so everyone including the hospitaleros are dressed in medieval costumes and there is music and the odd random parade.
      Once we had checked in we went to find a drink and bumped into Nick and Paul. Then went back to shower. Returned to the square to find a cup of tea and met up with Linda Bernie and David and there was finally a bit of sun!
      Dinner at the hostal where most others were staying - a vegetarian menu with four (!) choices for each course. Wonderful and fun meal with other pilgrims including new people from Spain Japan and Scotland. All heading the same way tomorrow and will all be in Burgos the day after, but, as accommodation is scarce on this next section, staying a a variety of different places in different villages.
      Dive bombed by swifts walking to and from dinner and they are darting around under our bedroom window too.
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    • Day 11

      Nàjera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      May 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Slept well. It was really difficult communicating with the guy in the accommodation (La Cepa). I think he was South American and had a speech impediment so it was a real struggle to understand his Spanish.

      Had to start late as it's Sunday and the earliest taxi I could get to the starting point was 9.30am. Just stopped once today for about 30mins. It was in Azofra for coffee and water. It rained most of the day and was really cold. Think it's going to be like that for the next few days.
      Booked an amazing hotel and had a long bath.
      Laundrette time again and it was busy. Got speaking to folk in there and 5 of us shared a machine. (2 South Koreans , 1 Spanish, 1 Italian) This is a lovely old town.. Loads of local families out for food. Had dinner with 6 Italians and a German. Was able to speak to Jakub from Germany, Miguel from Bologna and Gabriel from Roma as they spoke English/Spanish. Mushroom festival was amazing. Was chatting to Julianna from Brazil/Portugal/Holland and Maria from San Sebastian for ages. We met in the Laundrette earlier🤣. 22km to Belorado tomorrow. Might walk late as have the great room til 12.
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    • Day 8–9

      Day 7 Navarrete/Santo Domingo de Calzad

      May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      36.5km (212.6 from start). 46.000 steps. 7h 15min on the road, including breaks. 2400 calories and 5.8 km/h average speed.

      Hostel in Navarrete is not getting any stars from me. No dinner, no breakfast. Old hostel and small rooms. When 12 people share so little space, it is challenging.

      Anyway, my Garmin gave me 93% on sleep quality 😂 Slept from 21:38 to 06:15 - my earplugs are very effective.

      Camino’s longest stage today. 36.5km after 34km yesterday and I am actually feeling ok. Even had energy to wash my clothes and take a walk to nearest supermarket.

      Day today was in solitude. Alone and first time with earphones. Good old 80’s and endless fields of wine yards. We are in Rioja and it is beautiful. I enjoyed so much today’s stage.

      Private room in Room Concept Hostels. Will take luxury breakfast at 7:30 and will not start walking before 8am - only 23km tomorrow.
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    • Day 13

      Domestic bliss

      April 4 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      From last leaving Logrono to first checking in to Santo Domingo, what a difference two days makes. This isn't as impressive as it sounds, more likely everyone else just pushed on and I was the first not to. Regardless, it gave me the run of the place to settle in.

      This always looks broadly similar, so here it is for you to imagine we're doing it together.

      1. Take a seat opposite the hospitalero in charge, offer them your passport and your credential and watch as they scan one and stamp the other. Take the slip with your bed number on it, listen to the house guide (where everything is, what time the door closes, what time to be out tomorrow) and receive your crinkly plastic present.

      2. Take your shoes off and put them in the side room, changing into your sandals - these should be at the very top of your bag.

      3. Poke your head around checking out the place as you find your room and then your bed, don't put your backpack on it!

      4. If you're responsible, immediately make the bed using the disposable pillow case and fitted sheet you've been provided, and unsheathe your sleeping bag. I've just started being responsible, so I can say this.

      4. Unpack your bag onto the bed, releasing your

      - charger and book (install these near the head of your bed)

      - medicine canister (put this in the fridge and the cool brick inside in the freezer, if there is one)

      - rest clothes, clean underwear and socks, soap, and towel

      5. Shower and change into rest clothes. Nobody showers in the morning, as far as we're all concerned the day resets after you walk.

      6. Take your walking clothes and towel to the laundry room, wash them and hang to dry.

      The day is now yours, admin is over, and the town sort of goes to sleep between 2 and 5pm anyway. I sat in the garden with my book, which I really am loving, had a nap (the last few days caught up with me), went to the supermarket and cooked dinner, then went for a long walk around the town.

      Before bed, put absolutely everything loose into your bag so that in the morning you can get up, grab your sleeping bag and your pack, and leave the room swiftly and silently. Pack up in a common area while you sip your coffee. Not everyone has this step down yet but give them time.
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    • Day 14

      To Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      We had an uneventful walk today with not a lot of interesting scenery, but we love Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It’s old town is very medieval and has quite the history.

      The town takes its name after Saint Dominic (the name literally means Saint Dominic of the road) who dedicated his life to improving the conditions of pilgrims en route to Santiago in the Middle Ages, building pilgrim hospitals, roads, and bridges along The Way.

      Santo Domingo de la Calzada is also famous for the so-called ‘miracle of the hen’, considered to be the most famous of the Middle Ages and the Camino de Santiago.

      According to the legend, a German young man and his family were traveling as pilgrims to Santiago. On the way, they stopped in Santo Domingo de la Calzada for the night, where he rejected the advances of the inn keeper’s daughter. Upset with the rejection, the young woman hid a silver cup in the pilgrim’s bag, who would be later accused of theft and condemned to death.

      On their return from Santiago de Compostela, his parents went back to Santo Domingo de la Calzada to give the final farewell to their son and found him still alive, thanks to the intervention of Saint Dominic who knew of the young man’s innocence.

      Surprised by such a miracle, the parents went to the authorities to let them know. The Corregidor (sheriff) of Santo Domingo being skeptical replied that their son would be as alive as the roasted cockerel and hen he was going to eat that very moment. As he pronounced these words, the rooster and hen instantly got up on the plate, their white feathers grew back and they started to sing.

      And ever since, it is said about the town: ‘Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the hen sang after being roasted.”

      In memory of this miracle, a rooster and chicken, with white feathers, are kept alive at the cathedral all year round. 🐓🙂

      We had a great evening visiting with other pilgrims in one of the squares. 🙂
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    • Day 20

      On the road again! Rest stop in Grañon

      May 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      We left the comfort of the parador and now we're on the road to an algergue with a bunk and a pool. 22 km day today, left a little later, 9 am. Time for a Zuma de naranga and to rest the feet for a minute.Read more

    • Day 19–20

      Almost paradise at the Paradore

      May 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      Well, after a 20K walk through the Rioja region farmland, we have arrived in an Oasis of historical luxury at the Parador de Santa Dominica. Not exactly a pilgrim hang out at all, but we decided to splurge. We checked in with a group of British car touring people with fancy cars right at the front door. I'm sure they were Lords and ladies, lol!

      It was a hot long walk, with only one bar rest stop, we made great time leaving just before 9:00 and getting here just before 3:00. We met new pilgrims along the way and chatted which makes the time pass by.

      There were peas and wheat and barley and grape vines and olives and peaches and cherry tea along the gravel road. We walked next to the old clay aqueducts lining the sides of the fields, still functioning with water flowing through them. We were only next to the highway for a little while but our path was far enough away that it did not matter.

      The Parador is a restored hospital, that used to be a Oasis for Pilgrims now or is a luxury destination. It has beautiful terracotta floors and marble bathrooms and we truly have gone into a vortex. Now time for a shower and to put on some sandals and head out to the streets to find a meal and a cold drink.
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    • Day 18

      Rained IN

      June 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 73 °F

      Last night we got “rained in”. And hailed! And lightning’d!

      We were enjoying our dinner meal (the pilgrim menu for me with sweet rice with langostinos as first course, red peppers stuffed with cheese and cod as second course, and cheesecake for dessert; and a Spanish take on “hot dog” for Sean!) when the thunderstorm hit.

      We had been eating under the shade of a garden umbrella but the wind was starting to take them down. I rushed back to the albergue to get another layer of clothing and that’s when the hail started! By the time I got back they were moving everyone under shelter and then eventually indoors where we finished our meals—all slightly wetter.

      The picture shows where our table WAS, after they collapsed the umbrellas to prevent further knock overs.

      A delightful weather event to partake with my Air National Guard weather specialist. As Sean said, “dinner and a show!”
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    • Day 9

      Santo Domingo del Calzada

      July 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      Today was a comfortable day of walking, 21 k, with a cool morning breeze. We started on our way at 6am, and I was able to get this amazing photo of the sunrise, on the trail outside of Najera. We also saw nesting storks on the church steeple, and cave dwellings carved into the side of this mountain! Our albergue, pictured here, was one of the nicest we've experienced so far! We are walking through lots of grape vineyards. They are planted in very rocky soil, and irrigated through a deep well and flume system, that uses gravity to keep the system flowing. Amazing! The vines are so healthy and producing lots of grapes! I have included pictures of my dinner tonight. We ate with people from Germany, Scotland, and New York. It included the biggest prawns I ever eaten, a huge piece of cod, salad, and a piece of cheese cake. Delicious! Love and hugs!Read more

    • Day 15 - Azofra to Santo Domingo - 15km

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today was a piece of cake. I hadn’t decided how far to go, it was between 15km or 22km. I felt very good and knew I could go the 22, but at the 15km mark, I am in Santo Domingo, which is a small city and I needed a few necessities (for one my deodorant ran out yesterday!). I also wanted a new t-shirt as I left one a couple albergues ago and really wanted a second one on hand (and not always wear my bright coral one).

      I arrived at noon and who should be there just before me, my friend Emario from Italy (though I am pretty sure that is not how you spell it, but that is how it sounds). I met Emario just outside of Pamplona. We were the first two to arrive at our albergue. I tried talking to him, but he said “no speak English”. Later that day, there was a pilgrims meal at another albergue, so I went, and who should be there, Emario sitting across from me at the dinner table. I thought I would make another attempt to talk to him. I pulled out Google translate and asked him what brings him to the camino. He replied he had been waiting 30 years to do the camino. He talked some more, but Google translate cut him off. I tried a bit more with google, but the technology wasn’t smooth and I can tell he didn’t really want to talk much so I let it be.

      I would then see him every so often on the trail and give a nod and say Buongiorno. I would see him next in Viana and he sat beside me at the dinner table this time. I decided to pull out google translate and I typed in “What is your name, for the next time I see you.” He smiled, and gave me his name and I introduced myself.

      Now when we see each other on the trail, we say hello and our names. Today I ran into him a few times on the trail. At one point he was stopped for a rest as I was walking by and he held up his phone to take my picture so I did a pose. I then ran into him checking in at the albergue so I took the opportunity to take a selfie with him. It is funny, we don’t know anything about each other or speak each other’s language but just a friendly hello and smile can make all the difference.

      After settling into the Albergue, I went to find the grocery store. I decided to buy a few things for dinner instead of going out to a restaurant tonight. Don’t get too excited, it is nothing to actually cook, are you crazy?! :-) I bought a chicken ceaser salad and some bread and ham. I also got myself a new hiking t-shirt.

      Now it is time to go see the chickens at the cathedral. Unfortunately they were a little shy when I was there. I could only see a piece of them and if you look closely, you can see them in the bottom right corner. The really short version of the story is that a young son was hanged for spurning the love of a royal girl so he was hanged. His parents were on their way to Santiago so they left heartbroken. When they returned, their son was still hanging but he was alive. They went to the local authority to cut him down because he is alive and the man said “he is no more alive than these chickens I am about to eat.” Then the chickens came to life and started clucking. It is said these chickens are direct descendants of those original chickens.

      After the cathedral, I went up in the clock tower. It was 154 steps but it wasn’t too bad and worth it to see the view of the city from above and here the bells at 5pm.

      Ok, I am ready to relax and read about the day ahead. I would like to start doing longer days, but we will see.

      TTYL
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