Spanien
Valle de Yerri/Deierri

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    • Dag 10

      Estella

      14. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

      We decided to take a rest day today before a long day tomorrow. Took a short 2.7 mile walk into Estella and then had a great day hanging with friends, visiting the Decathlon store for a couple of things and then more hanging out until a Pilgrim’s dinner. It was a really fun, chill day and well deserved.Læs mere

    • Dag 9

      Etappe 6 - Los Arcos 1

      20. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      Heute Nacht konnten einem fast Mordgedanken kommen. Wir hatten einen Mitschläfer im Zimmer der fast sieben Stunden geschnarcht hat und noch andere Laute von sich gab. Habe fast nicht geschlafen.
      Trotzdem ging es heute 6.30 Uhr auf die nächste Etappe. Kurzes Frühstück unterwegs und dann kam schon das Kloster Irache. Am Weinbrunnen kurze Rast mit einem Becher Wein (lecker) und der Tag ist nochmal so schön.
      Weiter ging es durch kleine, idyllische Bergdörfer, abgeerntete Felder, vorbei an Weinbergen und durch Olivenhaine.
      Das Wetter ist traumhaft: Sonnenschein, blauer Himmel und leichter Wind. Richtiges Pilgerwetter.
      Jetzt kurze Rast an einem Food Truck- und weiter geht's Richtung Los Arcos.
      Sind gegen 12 Uhr gut angekommen. Stehen nun in der Schlange der Pilger, welche alle gern ein Bett in der Pilgerherberge haben möchten.
      Bett ergattert! Schlafsaal mit 34 Personen, drei Duschen, drei Toiletten. Mal sehen wie diese Nacht verläuft.
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    • Dag 16

      Puenta la Reina to Estella

      19. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      After a great dinner last night at the very busy restaurant below where we were staying we headed to bed ready for another early start. For dinner I had the lamb mid loin chops as did Lee and they were so delicious. Our favourite meal to date!
      We set off early this morning to a blue bird day full of energy (sort of!) and the thrill of another new day not knowing where we would be going. Getting our feet prepared for a long day of walking is quite a rigmarole. First it's rubbing them with vicks vaporub,then applying any blister plasters or toe gel protection and then the socks and shoes. Thankgoodness we have shoes a size bigger then normal as there is a lot of foot to fit in!
      The day was the hottest to date but we set off 730am in the cool of the day and had quite an uphill climb to get the heart going. Beautiful though with old roman bridges,grape vines laden with grapes,olive trees laden with olives and rolling hills with the odd castle on top.
      The funny thing is that all the dear villages you are aiming for to get refreshments are always up on top of a bloody steep hill! I guess the Romans needed to sit high up to guard against the enemy. They were not thinking of us baby boomers walking the Camino needing a drink. The drink we are loving is the freshly squeezed orange. Almost beats 🍷.
      So again up hill and down dale we walked 21km and in the heat. We passed some amazing vege gardens and note the size of the pumpkins! Finally we got into Estella at about 230 pm. Estella is such a pretty city with the river running through,beautiful old buildings and a wonderful centre square where we dined. The little children all playing in the square with old and young promenading and the church bells ringing. So warm and a beautiful meal and wine to boot. We even had Lee reciting Sam Hunt poetry so we were not feeling too homesick!
      Home now and tired but great to tick another day off. Today I saw on my watch I had done 33000 steps. Time for bed.
      Love all your messages and feel like you are with us all the way! Buenos noches
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    • Dag 11

      Day 7- To Sansol…we crushed it!

      6. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

      Here is what we have learned so far. Get up early, lighten your load, don’t wear wet socks, don’t lose your sunglasses. We got up early, packed up Agnus and Genevieve (our backpacks) to lighten our load, leaving yet more stuff we thought we needed. Goodbye blanket Joan bought in SJPP, who needs three chargers, a towel or more socks.

      We crushed today! So proud of ourselves. We completed 14 miles/23 km and arrived at our final destination the earliest we have ever arrived. It was hot, sweaty, dusty and we were plagued by black flies. Joan sang to me and told me stories anytime we passed an old rock wall. We arrived in Los Arcos had a beer in the main square and smiled. And Joan and I got to FaceTime Kenzie and Fabi and wish Kenzie a Happy Birthday. She has been instrumental in helping as find places to stay as we are too tired to look stuff up.

      At our Albergue in Sansol we washed our clothes, had time to update Penguins and just sit a minute. In the last week this afternoon has been the only downtime we have had. No time to journal, have reflective thoughts or contemplate our future. It’s amazing we are off to Lograno in the morning. And Camino friends invited to a Michelin star restaurant for dinner tomorrow night. Buen Camino!
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    • Dag 11

      Both Feeling Sick Now in Los Arcos

      28. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      They say the Camino offers us lessons, and our job is to learn them. Our lesson right now is in humility and acceptance. There’s not much you can really do to show a virus who’s boss; clearly the virus is! 🦠 David had two feverish nights in a row and congestion and cough. But he does seem to be improving so he suggested we walk a bit today and then taxi the rest of the way. It was all fun and games until my joints started to ache and my tummy got upset, sure signs of a fever in my body. We walked about half of the way to Los Arcos and then we got a soda at one of the bars and asked them if they could call a taxi for us. We are very happy to be in our little apartment in Los Arcos. They even have one of those little under counter washer dryer units. We are very excited! We are hoping to wash laundry tonight in the machine!!!

      Today we passed Irache, a little town that has a free wine fountain. Like they put 10 liters of wine in it every morning and people can just serve themselves. They say you should pour wine into your pilgrim’s scallop shell. I don’t know how well that works since most people have their shell tied firmly onto their backpack. We had a late start today because we spent some time at the Pharmacy which doesn’t open until 9:00 am. So we missed the big clump of early departure pilgrims. But we kept passing and falling behind a Spanish couple. At Irache the wife opened her mouth under the wine fountain and drank enough that she was pretty drunk, singing at the top of her lungs along the trail. Her husband was getting really annoyed with her. Maybe the wine fountain should come with a warning label!! We didn’t try the wine ourselves but like every single pilgrim, we had to check it out and take pictures of it!!

      Today was the first day that was kind of emotionally rough. We’ve had plenty of hard physical days! They say the repeated physical challenges is what makes the Camino a spiritual experience, I guess kind of like what fasting is supposed to do in a lot of spiritual traditions. For me today had some revelations about acceptance. Of course I know in my head that David’s cognitive state is in decline, and that I need to accept that some of our dreams for the future just aren’t going to be. And I know I’m my mind that I need to really take care of my own physical, mental, and spiritual health so I can be there for him. But something about being sick myself and worried about being physically unable to be Super Woman really drove it home today and I was feeling all teary. It sounds weird but I think actually accepting our reality emotionally is quite a positive change. Anyway, not to be all woo woo and over sharing, but I think it’s all part of being here.

      Coming up on the town where we agreed we’d call a taxi was so great today! When we saw the tower on the church in town and then found a bar with cold drinks it was about as good as anything can ever get! It’s in the mid-80°s with little shade and hotter than one might think.
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    • Dag 12

      Estella

      11. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Day 8 and 9 Estella - Arrived here, in Estella, yesterday via Lorca and Villatuerta - small towns with prominent churches. The walk was quite uneventful with the usual ups and downs through fields and of course laden fig trees, olive trees and grape vines.
      Today I wandered around Estella and saw it’s beautiful old buildings. The tourist office is in a Baroque Palace and the town museum that houses the works of Gustavo de Maeztzu is in the former Romanesque palace of The Kings of Navarre. There were also two churches to see after climbing 100s of stairs - and being a Sunday, everything was only open from 11:30am - 2pm! Needless to say I had a busy afternoon!
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    • Dag 8

      Day 6 - To Puente la Reina

      14. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Day 6 -To Puente la Reina - 24.1 km 28°C
      Today was a lot of uphill again, and sunny. But it was really quite windy so kept the day tolerable. Pleasant….other than bucking the wind. Hard enough without that.
      People on the trail are absolutely amazing!Everyone cares about everyone else and always ready to help. Like one gigantic family from all over the world. I’ve heard this before, and have discovered it to be true.
      I fell yesterday. Nothing serious. A knee abrasion. I guess I lost my focus on the path which was very rocky, and down I went. About 5 people pounced on me to help. One from Scotland, at least 2 from Switzerland, and possibly the other 2 as well. They helped me up (a feat in and of itself with the heavy pack), handed me wipes to clean my knee, and kept offering any help at all. When I convinced them I was fine, as they were leaving one man said “we are all here to help each other!” Later in the day I saw them further along the path and, after asking how I was, one of the guys said “we’re keeping an eye on you”. Lol. So special!
      Beautiful views as always. A lot of farmland. A bunch of metal statues in honor of pilgrims. On yeah, and an interesting vending machine; only on the Camino!!
      Another blessed day!
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    • Dag 9

      Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardín

      22. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      Part 1 - Cirauqui to Estella
      Today we covered almost 25k (15.5 miles), the views never get old and it’s great to feel our bodies getting stronger along the way as we adjust to our new “normal”.

      Oh, and today’s journey included a free public wine fountain. Yes, you read that correctly… a wine tap on the outside of a winery building! 🍷

      Tomorrow looks like it might be a little wet & chilly. Based on the towns, we have to choose either a 20k walk or over 30k so we are opting for the 20k to Torres del Rio. We will have plenty of 30k days in the future. 🥾
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    • Dag 5

      Adjusting

      27. juli 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      This is day 5 of my walk and I got into a good routine. Packing and unpacking every day is almost automatic, and I got much better at keeping my stuff organised, with easy access to what I need, when I need it.

      I still need to adjust some of my expectations though. I came with the idea that I would support the small villages by buying my daily food from local cafes, expecting tasty local dishes made by a local person at the back of the shop.

      But the reality is, some villages don't even have a cafe. Some have vending machines. And some have bars were the food is very unappealing, like the pizza I had today for lack of other options. It wasn't even fresh, it was frozen. Bigger towns and cities provide more choice.

      Tomorrow I am carrying snacks for the day and hope to find an albergue with a dinner option. Those I had so far have been the best meals, all home made.
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    • Dag 6

      Puente la Reina to Estella

      6. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      A most exciting that happened first thing this morning while I was wandering about, I saw a Spanish snake! I nearly stepped on in and I don't know who was more startled...me or the snake. He was a gold and black, skinny about 18 inches long. He had a pointy head and his tongue was certainly showing off his muscles!

      Todays' walk was really quite lovely. We are now entering wine country! I actually walked past a vineyard and tasting room. I didn't go in for a tasting. I didn't buy any wine...but I was tempted... It was not too far about 24 km today, and still no shortage of hills as we went through about 5 towns and to and from each town is a climb and a descent.

      For a few people, I know they struggled today getting a taxi. People are starting to feel the miles in their feet and legs, and so a new conversations have started...how to get a bus or a taxi. By now most people have figured out their hotel rooms, and have either decided to live with the "bed rush", or they are booking the rest of the days, or at least booking a few days in advance. Feet and legs are becoming a more frequent conversation as well...I am hoping that after 5 full days of walking that I am getting the most obvious of ailments out and out of the way...I hope that is true.

      At Lorca, which would be about 1/2 way to Estella, I planned on stopping for lunch and was pleasantly surprised by a concert in the town square, so enjoyed a few minutes of the concert with my lunch.

      I am starting to meet the same people again and again through the day. We stop and start at our own schedules but somehow seem to meet up again. I walked a few miles with Kelly today, and another friend Diane. In fact I bumped into Diane and her friend Julie at a cafe in our desperate search for food in Estella which in the end turned out to be another piece of egg and potato pie, and a couple glasses of wine. Between the holidays, soccer games, siestas and possibly the fact that it is Saturday made for definite food challenges which are not going to improve tomorrow since the hike tomorrow has the first 10 km without any food or water service, and it is quite exposed. It will be cooler tomorrow only about 23 degrees so that does make a difference.

      On the whole my body is holding up. I mentioned to some people that I burnt my hand on one of the first days I was in France with boiling water...it is healing, but I am having to bandage it up with my modest first aid kit because my burn is getting burned!

      My feet are ok. I switched out shoes today...but they left small blisters where I remember they do (ugh), so tomorrow it is back to the mountain shoes I think, and continue to manage the blisters as best I can. With all the shops closed today, I was lucky to happen upon a grocery store and got a few things there and also some food for the trip tomorrow as well. What I really need is a fork!
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    Valle de Yerri/Deierri

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