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    • Day 15

      Betanzos Rest Day

      September 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Life is wonderful for lucky Brucee

      Today was a scheduled Rest Day.... tomorrow is 21Km uphill ending in Bruma. But as of late yesterday and early this morning I had 2 logistical problems. There were no vacancies for me at tomorrow's destination. Following from that I had no destination to Transfer my heavy BackPack.

      In walks the Albergue Manager, "Begoña".  With ease and a smile she phoned an Albergue in Bruma and bingo my Camino Angel solved my 2 stressful problems with a smile. 
      The thought behind me writing this is to share some of the magic that I receive travelling solo, and thereby the welcoming and joy of the Spanish and BMCS extend to me. I tell myself just jump in and Camino magic happens 🙏🥰
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    • Day 14

      Betanzos Camino Inglés

      September 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      I'm in a typical Spanish Bar... arrived 6:55pm, no food until 8pm, but good Vino Tinto 😆
      Today was only 10.24Ks but v hilly. Went better than expected, got booked into an Albergue ... liked it so much, I extended my nights to 2. Betanzos has history and the following challenge consists of a huge climb Plus accommodations which are Booked out !!!!
      I wish you were here.. a young mother and her partner announced their 2 YO son was soon to have a sibling 🥰 All Spanish Family Fun 🥳
      Lastly I'm walking through landscapes in good Sunshine with a range of Galicia Greens to die for. 🥰 64.24 Ks to SdC 🥳
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    • Day 6

      Presedo to Bruma/Castrelos (Leira)

      August 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Morning began meeting another peregrina from Holland, Nelly… and we shared breakfast together in Betanzos. A sweet, skinny gato callajero shared my desayuno. Our cab driver, Fermin, picked us up and brought us to Meson Museo where we left off yesterday. We met up with a family of five, a father, mother and three daughters who chatted us up for a long time walking fast!! We had a lovely pastoral morning ramble through forests and open country to As Travesas where the two branches come together, there is a cafe there for a quick CocaCola! and then to Hospital de Bruma, where we caught up with Nelly again for a chat and a photo. We met up further on with two Brits, John and James, from North Essex. A nice chat by the bus station ensued. We left the Camino to find our Hotel Barrieros in Castrelos, about a mile away down a huge hill. We ate a great menu del dia of caldo Gallego and I had bacalao fritas and Ida had chicken legs. A lovely bottle of Albariño and flan set us up! Tonight we sleep and tomorrow we walk!Read more

    • Day 5

      Weiter nach Hospital de Bruma

      September 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      Um kurz nach 7 Uhr war ich wieder auf dem Camino. Ich genoss wieder, alleine zu gehen und die Gedanken schweifen zu lassen. Der Himmel war kristallklar und als die Sonne aufging, gab es das bekannte schöne Farbspiel aus Rot und Blau zu bewundern.

      Die Orte, die ich passierte, waren klein und beschaulich. Überall wurde ich als Pilger freundlich begrüßt.

      Da der Zielort sehr klein ist (nur etwas 50 Einwohner), gibt es wenig Unterkünfte. 19 Betten standen in der öffentlichen Herberge zur Verfügung, weitere Betten in einer privaten Herberge, die schnell voll war. Der Druck wurde erhöht, weil kurz vor Hospital der Bruma die Wege von A Coruña und Ferrol zusammenkommen und gemeinsam bis Santiago de Compostela weiterführen.

      Ich traf, nicht überraschend, Ian aus England wieder den ich bereits im Zug nach Ferrol kennengelernt hatte und am Zielort durfte ich bei einer "Fuß -OP" unter Pilgern zuschauen. Gerard verarzten Timo.

      Das einzige Restaurant im Ort hatte nicht nur viele Pilger, sondern auch eine Hochzeitsgesellschaft zu bewirten. Es war wieder ein schöner geselliger Abend.


      I was back on the Camino after 7am. I enjoyed walking alone again and letting my thoughts wander. The sky was crystal clear and the sun rose, I could admire the well-known beautiful play of colors of red and blue.

      The villages I passed were small and lovely. Everywhere I was greeted warmly as a pilgrim.

      Since the destination village is very small (only about 50 inhabitants), there is little accommodation. 19 beds were available in the public hostel, with additional beds in a private hostel that quickly filled up. The pressure was increased because before Hospital der Bruma the paths from A Coruña and Ferrol come together and continue as one to Santiago de Compostela.

      Not surprisingly, I met Ian again from England, whom I had already met on the train to Ferrol, and at the destination I was able to watch a "foot operation" among pilgrims. Gerard treats Timo's foot.

      The only restaurant in village not only catered to many pilgrims, but also to a wedding party. It was another lovely, sociable evening.
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    • Day 4

      In Betanzos

      September 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Endlich hatte ich die Gelegenheit, Spaghetti mit Muscheln zu probieren. Das Gericht war lecker. In Betanzos gibt es zahlreiche sehr alte Gebäude zu bewundern.


      I finally had the chance to try spaghetti with mussels. The dish was delicious. There are many very old buildings to admire in Betanzos.Read more

    • Day 3

      Höhenmeter am Morgen

      September 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      ...vertreiben Kummer & Sorgen - so könnte zumindest die Überschrift im Reiseführer für meine zweite Etappe lauten 🙉 Die von gestern noch brennenden Beine mussten auf jeden Fall einiges leisten, als es direkt zum Start eine knappe halbe Stunde dauerhaft steil bergauf ging! Eine landschaftlich wunderschöne Etappe, die anfangs noch mehr Trubel (in Form kleiner Dörfer), später dann aber vor allem Ruhe und Natur bot. Gegen 14 Uhr bin ich in Betanzos - meiner heutigen Zwischenstation und der wohl schönste Stadt Galiziens - angekommen. Nach meinem verspäteten Mittagessen geht's gleich erstmal unter die Dusche. Ich melde mich morgen wieder! 🙂🥾Read more

    • Day 5

      Betanzos to Presedo

      August 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      We stayed two nights in Betanzos, at the lovely Portico Hostal with a delicious restaurant right below. We chose to leave our mochilas at the hostal and walk with daypacks to Presedo, and get a taxi back to Betanzos for the second night. Our walk today was about 8 miles, through some roads, fields and forests, and also a stretch on the main highway which I was not too thrilled about. We walked through Presedo, which has only a very small albuerge, and had lunch a little further down the road at Mason Museo Xente no Camiño. We ate judias (flat green beans) and had a soup with noodles and another with chickpeas and tripa!
      We called a taxi which came quickly and took us back to Betanzos for the afternoon of relaxation and walking around town and another great dinner downstairs. Of note is the pig sculpture on top of the Romanesque church Santa Maria with the cross on its back as well as the Celtic symbols on the portico and exterior of the other Romanesque church.
      The weather is going to be interesting from now on for a couple of days so we’ve chosen to have Correos take our packs on ahead. We shall see how that goes!
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    • Day 4

      Pontedeume to Betanzos

      August 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Leaving Pontedeume we still had a small climb from Campolongo. Missed the turn by the grape arbor and heard other pilgrims whistle to get us back onto the way. We walked through trails and small streets and over a big highway to an oasis called Ultreia et Suseia where we had coffee and ham and cheese and bread with a great place to sit. This was by an old bridge Ponte ……? Then more walking down to Miño where we diverted to the beach for a foot soak and rest. Ida was hungry so we found a grocery store and bought fruit and avocado. I had half a baguette from the day before. We found a hardware store and bought a cheap folding knife. We walked toward Ponte de Porco and found an old table close to the river to eat at and enjoyed the food. We were down close to sea level. Nice breeze out of the north with good views of the ocean and river delta in the background. We followed the river a bit and then began more climbing up and up, finding water and another oasis as we went through small settlements with beautiful views of the surrounding hills and river valley. At the top just before descending to Betanzos, we came across an ancient church with many Celtic symbols and the graveyard. We walked down into the town and found another ancient church, then went across the river through a medieval gate into Betanzos and up some more steep to the Portico Hostal. It was the last night of the festival of San Roque. Lots of entertainment and rides in the square and a huge stage. We went to a small pilgrim’s mass and received blessing from the priest and a sello. We ate at our restaurant by the hotel and had ice cream for dessert and then tried to sleep while the loud band was playing in the square until 4 am!!Read more

    • Day 5

      Pontedeume to Betanzos

      May 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      We got off to a cracking start with an extravagant breakfast of fresh orange juice, toast, two types of jam, a huge croissant, some cheese and finally several slices of cake! Not the usual black coffee and vamos.

      Even though our lodgings gave us a head start it was still a good slog out of Pontedeume. We met up with two American pilgrims and casual conversation had the miles slipping by. So much so that we completely missed the 3km detour to Igrexa San Miguel de Breamo. Next time ( perhaps )

      For the first time we had extended walking on pleasant earth paths through open woodland. Eventually a steep descent brought us down to Ponte Baxoi and a welcome cold drink at a great cafe. From here we skirted the golf course on the outskirts of Mino then over a 14 century bridge commissioned by Fernán Pérez de Andrade 'The Good'.

      We then descended fairly uneventfully into Mino where we left the Americans. Mino was a busy town and by now the sun had risen along with the temperature. Now the long slog began

      First up alongside the Mino estuary to the oddly named Ponte de Porco. As you'll see from the picture, there was a statue of a pig. We rambled along more tarmac until we came to the medieval Ponte Lambre.

      Then we went up. And up. And up.

      I ran out of water but begged some from an elderly chap doing what elderly chaps do best. Messing about in a shed. He said it came from high in the mountains and I could believe him. Cold and sweet.

      On we trudged looking for shade under anything we could find.

      At last we arrived at Igrexa San Martin de Tiobre. A "beautiful 12th century romanesque church with exquisite corbels, tympanum and motifs". It was shut.

      Just to add to the misery, we now started to plummet down towards Betanzos. We had a chance for a break when we found the church of Nsa. Sra. Do Camiño open. A quiet and cool spot to recollect ourselves before the bustle of Bezantos. An elderly lady began the ascent towards the church. She looked every inch the Spanish widow, all in black with a medal of St. Benedict around her neck.

      Arriving we crossed the Río Mandeo using the handsome medieval bridge Puente Viejo and into the town via an arched gate. Then we went up again. In fact the whole of Betanzos seems to be built on a thimble with roads pouring down from it.

      I was struggling by now and paused to gather myself. Hearing a familiar voice to my left I turned and found Christof tackling a platter of pulpo. At this point we realised we were outside our rooms for the evening. A quick check in and we were sat with our fellow pilgrim dining on a Betanzos tortilla. All runny and gooey, we'd been told in Pazo da Merced that they were some of the best in Spain. I'd not argue with that.

      We had a choice of churches for Mass. The Igrexa San Francisco was at 19:30 but the Igrexa de Santa María do Azouge pipped them to the post with an advertised time of 19:00. There was also the prospect of a pilgrims blessing. That swung it.

      However, come 19:00, we kicked off with Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament. Followed by Benediction. Followed by a continuation of a novena to Our Lady of Fatima. Then Mass. After Mass we had a continuation of a novena to San Roque. Finally we were called forward for a pilgrims blessing. Just to add to the Catholic element of all this, there was a collection. A couple of hours kneeling on hard wooden kneelers. Ah well.

      Back to the rooms for an early night. The Southward march continues tomorrow.
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    • Day 30


      September 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Tough walk today from Ferrol to Pontedeume. There was a fair amount of climbing during the last part of the day and absolutely beautiful views but the most difficult part for me is how depressed I get on the walk from Ferrol to Neda. There is a lot of car traffic, then walking along the military base, then the industrial area, and finally the very smelly and garbage strewn area of the bay. But for some reason it seems much more than that. It just sucks the life out of me. I had the same reaction when I did it before and this is the only route I have walked twice. Fortunately Pontedeume has the opposite effect and I had a nice place to stay and WIFI so I could write this update. I had dinner with a Chemist (Dr Christian Richard's) from the UK who has lived and worked here for 15 years and shared the history of the region. I also had a wonderful fish dinner with a huge appetizer of cheeses, salami, cured ham, and churizo. I could only eat one of the two large fish filets and the total with tax was $9!Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Viñas, Vinas

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