Tanzania
Zanzibar

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    • Day 177

      Tour of Stone Town

      June 26, 2022 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Final tour for Zanzibar, was a morning tour of Stone Town. Started at the historical East African slave market . . . https://nataniatravel.com/en/the-slave-market-z… then through various markets. Passed by Freddie Mercury's childhood home, and various fruit and fish markets. Interesting city with a long (and traumatic) history.Read more

    • Day 103

      Old Slave Market, Stone Town

      August 17, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Afterwards, we went our separate ways. I headed back to Shangani Street to return to the Freddie Mercury Museum. They let me go back in to re-shoot the video that I failed to take yesterday! I also returned my faulty cushion cover and exchanged it for another bag of coffee 😂.

      I then made my way back to the hotel where I had some lunch poolside with Mark. After lunch, he was feeling up to a walk, so we went the short distance to visit the Slave Museum and Anglican church. It was a stark reminder of man’s inhumanity to man!
      We returned to the hotel as we were both feeling rough!

      This evening, we ate in the hotel again as neither of us felt like venturing far. After dinner, we packed and got organised, ready for our next adventure starting in the morning.
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    • Day 491

      Stone Town

      March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Even though Tanganyika merged with the Zanzibar Archipelago in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still considers itself almost independent, or at least the leader.
      One claim to fame is that it held the shortest war in history. The Anglo-Zanzibar War of 1896 lasted less than an hour, between 38 and 45 minutes.
      It was the usual story of gun-boat diplomacy and closely followed the Imperial rules of engagement:
      1. Sultan appoints a successor without consulting the British
      2. Miffed British Consul demands appointment of a more tractable puppet, Hamud bin Muhammed
      3. Sultan disdains option
      4. Royal Navy has some target practice on the Sultan's Palace; 4,100 machine gun rounds; 1,000 rifle rounds; and 500 shells were launched.
      5. Hamud found to be a worthy successor.
      6. War ends
      Now the town is invaded by hordes of unsuitably or partially dressed tourists flouting local sensibilities in the humid 34 degree heat.
      ------------
      One building, now the home of the Baraza La Manispaa Mjini or Municipal Council, is noteworthy for being "generally considered one of J.H. Sinclair's less-significant works"; perhaps not surprising for a man who after finishing his apprenticeship in 1891 joined the prestigious architectural office of John L. Pearson in London but "showed no great promise as an architect".
      Since he couldn't be an architect John Houston Sinclair became something in a new financial audit department of the Foreign Office in December 1893. They quickly shunted him off to East Africa to become the the local auditor for the East African Protectorate in Kenya, beginning a career in East Africa that would span 29 years.
      After three years in Mombassa he was posted to Zanzibar in April 1899 where, not learning from experience he built a number of structures in Stone Town, in a style described as "Saracenic," a mish-mash of Arabic, Portugese, Italian, Greek, Indian and Gothic vernaculars.
      The building was commissioned by a rich rich Indian merchant, Mohamedbhai Sheikh Hoosenbhai, who belonged to a Bohora family. Begun in 1922 and completed in 1923 it was originally a tenement block for clients of varying status, located in the Malindi Quarter of Stone Town on the edge of the creek that divided Stone Town from Ng'ambo. Thus, it is all facade and the rear is virtually undecorated.
      This is evident from the rent records that the owner's family occasionally occupied the building when tenants were scarce. In an effort to secure higher rent, the building was leased to the Senior British members of the Zanzibar protectorate probably around 1925, after JHS concluded his his time in Africa having reached the pinnacle of his career in the position of Resident from 1922-1924.
      Stone Town is now on the World Heritage list, with access to international funding to restore significant buildings. The canny Town Council now describe Bharmal Building as a beautiful, historic edifice exemplifying the rich Zanzibar fusion of Oriental and Romanesque architecture and plans are afoot for its restoration.
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    • Day 2

      zLife Hostel Stone Town

      November 2, 2022 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Nach einer Anreise von fast 24-Stunden fuhren wir mit einem Taxi vom Flughafen zur ersten Unterkunft - ein Hostel direkt in Stone Town, der Altstadt von Zanzibar City. Die Unterkunft überzeugte durch eine perfekte Lage, sehr herzliche Gastgeber sowie ein peppiges Ambiente. Leider war unser Zimmer aufgrund der frühen Anreise noch nicht bezugsfertig. Nach einem Becher Kaffee im Hostel, spazierten wir durch die kleinen, belebten Gassen der Altstadt. Bevor wir unsere Erkundungstour fortsetzten, ging es zum Check-In ins Hostel zurück. Nach einer kurzen Siesta, setzten wir unseren Stadtbummel in Stone Town fort. Im liebevoll dekorierten Café Africano stärkten wir uns bei Cola, Fanta, Massala Chips und Meatballs. Abends kehrten wir zu Cocktails, Zanzibar Curry und Bruschetta im hippen 6*South ein. Ein gelungener Abschluss für unseren ersten Abend in Afrika - Tansania - Zanzibar.Read more

    • Day 3

      Stone Town, Zanzibar

      November 3, 2022 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Unser Tag begann mit einem super Frühstück im Hostel. Im Anschluss wollten wir den Weg zum Busterminal in Stone Town ablaufen, um zu gucken, ob wir den Weg mit unseren Backpacks schaffen. Auf Sansibar heißen öffentliche Busse Dala Dala; eine Nummer an der Frontscheibe verrät das Ziel. Unser Ziel heißt Matemwe - Dala Dala Nummer 118.
      Nachdem wir den eher touristischen Teil von Stone Town verlassen hatten, merkten wir schnell, dass wir vermutlich ein Taxi nehmen sollten. Auch am Busterminal wurden wir diesbezüglich bestätigt.
      Den weiteren Tag verbrachten wir im Café Bamboo mit Blick auf das Meer, in den engen Gassen von Stone Town, im Livingstone am Strand, im alten Fort und abends beim leckeren indischen Essen in einem vegetarischen Restaurant.
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    • Day 92

      Zanzibar unguja again

      December 17, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      What’s up, I am back in the same spot as a week or two ago? Am I bad in travelling or something, did I miss something here that I wanted to revisit? (Did I actually meet a prostitute on the island that I fell in love with? )

      Well, no, here is the thing: cycling was too hot, I went diving, and now decided I will go back to dark es salaam to take the train at some point, so just chilling it with plenty of other tourists in zanzibar for two days. And I missed the old slave market last time I was here, which I had to go and visit.

      I made a new footprint to elaborate more on zanzibar. Because it’s touristic, and it’s busy, and it’s too busy with busy tourism. It’s too busy in that, through the super small alleyways and between the zigzag of small alleys, you constantly bump into small “taxis” or motorcycles. You are also not allowed to be tired here, or you will be punished by the city immediately and mercilessly: the honking and motorcycles make it impossible. (Nice thing is that I am immediately tired due to the heat…)

      It’s too touristy in that everyone wants something of you; that you have shops called “the souvenir emporium” (cringe); and that you have ten (easily; Turkish markets dont come close) of the same shops selling (or trying to) the same thing—masaai people selling their armbands and necklaces. And that you have to be careful about not being ripped off.

      What is cool about the tourism is that you can find good specialty coffee shops and feel like at home. I had a decent espresso by my standards, which was really something new. Also, and this is because tourism and because of the diverse heritage of Zanzibar, you have lassi here at some places, which is my favourite cool drink by far in the heat. Ayran but better.

      That is the thing about Zanzibar, it has a history of belonging to Portuguez, Oman, and Britain (Germany only controlled towns inland I believe), and for a long time there was a sultan of zanzibar, and it was a prosperous place due to very successful plantations (centering on cloves) and due to the ports, making the city very very rich and prosperous. (I also read that “ ...It might be called Stinkabar rather than Zanzibar”, because it smelled so bad 150 years ago). But around the 18th century, slavery became one of the most profitable business— I learned that slavery, even amongst blacks (different tribes) was very common before the Arabs or Portuguez started it, but the Omans and Arabs made it into a business on the island. (Moslims cannot take moslims as slaves, but no issue with blacks.) All blacks on the island were slaves during the 18th century, under the Sultans rule, and Zanzibar hosted a primary slavery market for entire east africa. Plus of course the plantation slaves. This made for a lot of islamic influences, arab people, and indian people living here; it also made for a lot of slavery of blacks, and slavery was the most profitable business on this island. (All blacks living here were apparently slaves…) About a third went to work on clove and coconut plantations of Zanzibar and Pemba while the rest were exported to Persia, Arabia, the Ottoman Empire and Egypt. (Pasted from wikipedia)

      It was worth coming back here, as I managed to ask a lot of questions to the ticket clerk at the museum, who was a historian. So I learned that slavery was only made worse by degree by Portuguese and Arabs, that the British might have said to want to abolish slavery early in the nineteenth century, but it would have sucked too much economically, so they held off for a bit, and about some blacks being employed as slave porters (and in fact becoming rich sometimes doing this) for the Arabs; in fact Tippu Tip (one of the most powerful slave traders) descended from a black and someone from Oman. Slavery was just business: frequently also a business to transport ivory, say, so a means to an end.

      Lastly, Zanzibars road to independence (going through the British and back to a Sultan) was not without bloodshed, when there was a revolt and several thousand ethnic Arab (5,000-12,000 Zanzibaris of Arabic descent) and Indian civilians were murdered and thousands more detained or expelled, their property either confiscated or destroyed.

      Currently this town is just full of it’s own character, and not being anything like other towns I have seen. But also touristy. And busy.
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    • Day 491

      Deja view

      March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      When the taxi took me into the dark streets behind the fishing port, I was a little concerned about the standard of the cheap hotel I had found on booking.com
      In fact it was a wonderfully decorated old building that could have been a 1970's hippy hangout in Holland.
      I went up to the rooftop in the evening and found this terrace. There was a counter but no bar which surprised me as they would have made a fortunefrom its location.
      On my way to bed I was waylaid by a charming young Polish couple who insisted I join them for some Bacardi. How could I refuse. She was a gospel singer earning her living selling photovoltaic panels in a tiny, unpronounceable town in Poland and her friend Simon worked in Gloucester for Amazon. It was his 33rd birthday and they had gone to the roof expecting to find company to help celebrate, instead they found me and we had a jolly chat about life and philosophy at the postgraduate level as only a litre of duty-free rum can invoke.
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    • Day 491

      Malindi Art

      March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      The bar did open in the morning - for breakfast. A plate of fruit and an omelette accompanied by a pot of tea with milk on the side were all included in the 30,000 TSh room price. The shared bathrooms did not alter my appreciation of my first good brekky, the value for money and the amazing decorations. Some of the artwork, made from recycled materials and all usable, was inspired and every square inch of wall was covered in A3 sized prints and photographs from a variety of sources. Had to be seen to be believed ...Read more

    • Day 491

      Captivity

      March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

      "We must find new lands from which we can easily obtain raw materials and at the same time exploit the cheap slave labor that is available from the natives of the colonies. The colonies would also provide a dumping ground for the surplus goods produced in our factories." [Cecil Rhodes]

      “Captivity is the greatest of all evils that can befall one.” » Miguel de Cervantes

      Slavery has always existed in various forms and even the Roman Seneca the Younger wrote “Slavery takes hold of few, but many take hold of slavery.”
      The East African slave trade was funneled to the markets in Zanzibar, (although there were several others on the mainland,) partly because there was already a well established trading route run by Omani Arabs up the coast. In the 10th Century many slaves were sent to Iraq to fight in wars there, but by the 19th C the enormous numbers required to work in the cinnamon & clove plantations inspired several tribal groups to prey on each other.
      All of the main racial groups were involved in the slave trade in some way or other. French and Portugese used slaves in their plantations in the Indian Ocean islands (Martinique, Reunion etc), and Africans captured and sold prisoners taken in battle, or just kidnapped them. (The British developed the Western, Atlantic routes which competed for heads.)
      There was a fate worse than slavery: when there was a glut of potential slaves the Doe tribe north of Bagamoyo enjoyed eating the ‘excess supplies’.
      The trip down to the coast -often 1000 km - was unpleasant and an astonishing number died. One would imagine that the slavers would look after their assets but they were marched enormous distances daily on a bowl of gruel with a log around their necks or carrying enormous quantities of ivory. Any that couldn't make it were disposed of unceremoniously. Then, when they were near Zanzibar, the traders decided whether it was worth paying the tax or duty on each person: if not they were murdered on the beach.
      In Stone Town they were kept in various cellars such as the one photographed. Stuffy and claustrophobic, after an average of 3 days in here the weakest collapsed and were chucked on the beach to die. The rest were taken up to the market and apparently flogged on the spot where the Anglican Church's altar now stands; to increase their sale value if they didn't cry out. (I suspect this is a bit of hyperbole for the tourists but then, it wouldn't surprise me.) After all that, being sold must have seemed a minor problem for, whilst plantation life was certainly rough, domestic life was better than they might have had previously.
      One testimony in the exhibition on the site of the old slave markets, is from a woman who was accused of being someone's slave and managed to prove her manumission to the magistrate. She was awarded a sum of money and when asked what use she would make of the cash, said that she would buy a slave.
      Another celebrity was Salme (1824-1924), the daughter of Omani Sultan Sayeed Said (d. 1856) and a Circassian concubine from the Caucasus Mountains of Russia who was part of the his harem. She eloped with a German merchant, changed her name to Emily Ruete and wrote "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar" about her life.
      Many women were suria, which was a state of slavery for them but not their children. This has resulted in a rich and varied gene pool in Zanzibar, often in particularly attractive people.
      In 1822, the Omani Arabs signed the Moresby treaty which made it illegal for them to sell slaves to Christian powers. After helping to convince Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar to abolish the trade on 6th June 1873, (in the usual British Diplomatic way,) the Royal Navy enforced the agreement by patrolling the waters and intercepting any dhows with human cargo.
      Interestingly, the good Anglican sailors deliberately attributed the trade in its entirety to heathen Mohammedans. In fact, the richest trader was the infamous Tippu Tip (1837-1905) otherwise known as Hamed bin Mohammed, who was African. Usually though, it was the Africans who collected and the Arabs who divested.
      Despite the best efforts of HM Navy, and numerous photos of rugged matelots lofting liberated and wriggling brown babies into the air, (one can rely on the British shoulder for innocent propaganda,) the trade continued, particularly on the mainland. Slaving was illegal but existed openly until Britain defeated the Germans in the First World War.
      Freedom was not all it cracked up to be, even when the illiterate and often isolated plantation slaves finally understood what it meant that they were free. Some slaves had even been allowed to save a little money they made for their owner and buy property: on manumission they lost the land. Worse, they could not stay on the plantation as squatters and had to leave, becoming vagrants and thus subject to imprisonment and hard labour. The British authorities were concerned about keeping the now government owned plantations running and offered minimal wages to ex-slaves to continue working. Restricted land rights and a compulsory hut tax made sure they never escaped.
      Thus the modern system of slavery was introduced. It has grown in the 21stC in every country of the world to somewhere between 21 to 36 million people. That is more than the number of slaves seized during the entire African slave trade. The International Labour Organisation has put the value of slave labour output at 150 billion USD annually. This includes bonded labour, forced labour, child slavery, early or forced marriage as well as descent based slavery.
      In the news over the past few days, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute revealed that the Uighurs were being captured and made to work as prisoners for multinational companies in China. They are an Islamic people of Turkic origin whom the Chinese Communist Party portrays since 9/11 as auxiliaries of al-Qaeda. Without any evidence. But that didn't stop the US locking 20 of them in Guantanamo Bay for years without being charged with any offence. We don't really care about them of course, (we care about big Brand names being tarnished and wasting all that advertising money,) but still it is slavery.

      “The distinguishing sign of slavery is to have a price, and to be bought for it.” [John Ruskin]
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    • Day 14

      Day 14: Island explorer

      February 15, 2019 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      Today I visited a local spice farm (please look at the pineapple... did you know this is what a pineapple plant looks like?! 🍍) and Stone Town, the capital of this island 🌴

      It was a nice trip but I feel so ready for being part of a group now. Activities like these are so much more fun if you can share them with others. Although ... I was never alone (as usual), I was always with a local guy ... and in Stone Town he taught me how to play a local game (loved it) 💛Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Zanzibar, Sansibar-Stadt, مدينة زنجبار, Горад Занзібар, Занзибар, Sansibar, Zanzibar by, Πόλη της Ζανζιβάρης, Zanzibaro, Zanzíbar, زنگبار, זנזיבר סיטי, Zanzibár, ZNZ, ザンジバルシティ, ზანზიბარი, 잔지바르시티, Zanzibaras, Занзібар, زنجبار شہر, Zanjibar, Ìlú Zanzibar, 桑给巴尔市

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