Tanzania
Vuga

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57 travelers at this place
  • Day16

    Der frühe Vogel... in Stonetown

    December 20, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Irgendwie sind wir auf frühes Aufstehen programmiert obwohl wir zur Abwechslung für einen wirklich schmalen Taler hier sehr nobel übernachtet haben. Ohne Tiere und nicht definierbare Geräusche, in einer wunderbaren Oase 🏝 nebst Bar & Food und Bademänteln. Der Einzige Kritikpunkt war der Filterkaffee. #ohnekaffeekeinecompetition

    Unser Weg führte uns durch die Altstadt von Stone Town. Süße enge Gässle reihen sich aneinander, die vom vorübergezogenen Regen zu einem Erlebnispfad wurden..
    Aus einem anderen Reisebericht bekamen wir die Empfehlung unbedingt ins Zanzibar Coffee House zu gehen. Geführt von einem Schweizer, besticht es mit unglaublich viel altem Charme und Liebe zum Detail. Wir genossen den zweitbesten Kaffee ☕️ unseres Urlaubs (den besten hatten wir ja neulich selbst gemacht) auf der Dachterrasse mit 360 Grad Rundumblick auf Stonetown.

    Es folgte Adventsshopping mal anders 😅
    Auf dem hiesigen Fischmarkt musste man durch den Mund atmen 😷😷😷 obwohl die ganzen (oder teilweise schon halben) süßen Fischlein ganz ganz frisch sind. Hier gibt es alles was dem Gourmet das Herzle ♥️ höher schlagen lässt: Frischen Thunfisch, Hummer, Schwertfisch, Hai 🦈 und auch kleineres Getier. Beim Übergang zur Fleischhalle ist unser Geruchssinn deutlich überstrapaziert und wir switchen in die Gewürzhalle und das bunte Treiben beim Obst und Gammel 🍌🥭 🧅 🍆

    Nach kurzem Stopover und Lunch im Hotel, ging es mal wieder aufs Boot, dieses Mal nach Prison Island, auf die bis 1996 alle Kranken in Quarantäne verschafft wurden. Das eigentliche Highlight dieses Eilands sind die riesigen Landschildkröten, die einst von den Seychellen hier her gebracht wurden.

    Turtles 🐢 so weit das Auge reichte... obwohl gar keine Pizzeria in der Nähe war 😉😉

    Und irgendwie muss das hier ne ziemlich fruchtbare Ecke sein. Hier wurde geknattert was das Zeug hält. Alles was bei drei nicht auf dem 🌳war! Und da Schildkröten ja bekanntlicherweise nicht klettern können ging es hier so ziemlich rund😍😍😍.
    Außer 👉🏼👌🏼, ein bissle Grünzeug futtern und schlafen haben die nix zu tun. Ich glaub so würden wir auch ganz alt werden😉

    Weiter ging’s über die kleine übersichtliche Insel. Hier war früher mal ein Knäschtle in wahrhaft schönem Ambiente. Anschließend plantschten wir noch im warmen Wasser und bestaunten beim Schnorcheln 🤿 zahlreiche Korallen, farbenfrohe Seesterne und viele süße Fischle🦂🐠🐡

    Zurück am Ufer enterten wir die schöne Strandbar in idyllischer Lage mit erfrischenden Drinks 🍹 und schauten dem bunten Treiben zu.

    Zitat:
    „Wir haben jetzt für vier Drinks 8,40 € bezahlt. Da brauchen wir heute gar nichts mehr essen - dann können wir gleich weiter trinken...“ #happyhour 🙌🏼

    Auf dem Heimweg zum
    Hotel schlenderten wir noch ein bisschen durch die Geschäfte der Hauptstraße und kamen an einem Restaurant vorbei, das uns alte Bekannte auftischte ... Lobster 🦞 und Prawns 🦐 vom morgendlichen Fischmarkt landeten sehr schmackhaft angerichtet auf unseren Tellern.

    Zurück im Hotel, ging es es direkt ab auf die Schaukel und wir ließen den Tag beschwingt ausklingen.

    Morgen Früh geht wieder der Weckruf, denn es geht weiter auf die nächste Insel.

    Usiku mwema und liebe Grüße an alle Daheimgebliebenen 😘
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  • Day491

    Stone Town

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Even though Tanganyika merged with the Zanzibar Archipelago in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still considers itself almost independent, or at least the leader.
    One claim to fame is that it held the shortest war in history. The Anglo-Zanzibar War of 1896 lasted less than an hour, between 38 and 45 minutes.
    It was the usual story of gun-boat diplomacy and closely followed the Imperial rules of engagement:
    1. Sultan appoints a successor without consulting the British
    2. Miffed British Consul demands appointment of a more tractable puppet, Hamud bin Muhammed
    3. Sultan disdains option
    4. Royal Navy has some target practice on the Sultan's Palace; 4,100 machine gun rounds; 1,000 rifle rounds; and 500 shells were launched.
    5. Hamud found to be a worthy successor.
    6. War ends
    Now the town is invaded by hordes of unsuitably or partially dressed tourists flouting local sensibilities in the humid 34 degree heat.
    ------------
    One building, now the home of the Baraza La Manispaa Mjini or Municipal Council, is noteworthy for being "generally considered one of J.H. Sinclair's less-significant works"; perhaps not surprising for a man who after finishing his apprenticeship in 1891 joined the prestigious architectural office of John L. Pearson in London but "showed no great promise as an architect".
    Since he couldn't be an architect John Houston Sinclair became something in a new financial audit department of the Foreign Office in December 1893. They quickly shunted him off to East Africa to become the the local auditor for the East African Protectorate in Kenya, beginning a career in East Africa that would span 29 years.
    After three years in Mombassa he was posted to Zanzibar in April 1899 where, not learning from experience he built a number of structures in Stone Town, in a style described as "Saracenic," a mish-mash of Arabic, Portugese, Italian, Greek, Indian and Gothic vernaculars.
    The building was commissioned by a rich rich Indian merchant, Mohamedbhai Sheikh Hoosenbhai, who belonged to a Bohora family. Begun in 1922 and completed in 1923 it was originally a tenement block for clients of varying status, located in the Malindi Quarter of Stone Town on the edge of the creek that divided Stone Town from Ng'ambo. Thus, it is all facade and the rear is virtually undecorated.
    This is evident from the rent records that the owner's family occasionally occupied the building when tenants were scarce. In an effort to secure higher rent, the building was leased to the Senior British members of the Zanzibar protectorate probably around 1925, after JHS concluded his his time in Africa having reached the pinnacle of his career in the position of Resident from 1922-1924.
    Stone Town is now on the World Heritage list, with access to international funding to restore significant buildings. The canny Town Council now describe Bharmal Building as a beautiful, historic edifice exemplifying the rich Zanzibar fusion of Oriental and Romanesque architecture and plans are afoot for its restoration.
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    Tony Hammond

    Yes I've heard all about middle-aged white ladies going in search of a toy boy.....

    3/6/20Reply
    Roland Routier

    Bharmal Building

    3/7/20Reply
     
  • Day491

    Captivity

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    "We must find new lands from which we can easily obtain raw materials and at the same time exploit the cheap slave labor that is available from the natives of the colonies. The colonies would also provide a dumping ground for the surplus goods produced in our factories." [Cecil Rhodes]

    “Captivity is the greatest of all evils that can befall one.” » Miguel de Cervantes

    Slavery has always existed in various forms and even the Roman Seneca the Younger wrote “Slavery takes hold of few, but many take hold of slavery.”
    The East African slave trade was funneled to the markets in Zanzibar, (although there were several others on the mainland,) partly because there was already a well established trading route run by Omani Arabs up the coast. In the 10th Century many slaves were sent to Iraq to fight in wars there, but by the 19th C the enormous numbers required to work in the cinnamon & clove plantations inspired several tribal groups to prey on each other.
    All of the main racial groups were involved in the slave trade in some way or other. French and Portugese used slaves in their plantations in the Indian Ocean islands (Martinique, Reunion etc), and Africans captured and sold prisoners taken in battle, or just kidnapped them. (The British developed the Western, Atlantic routes which competed for heads.)
    There was a fate worse than slavery: when there was a glut of potential slaves the Doe tribe north of Bagamoyo enjoyed eating the ‘excess supplies’.
    The trip down to the coast -often 1000 km - was unpleasant and an astonishing number died. One would imagine that the slavers would look after their assets but they were marched enormous distances daily on a bowl of gruel with a log around their necks or carrying enormous quantities of ivory. Any that couldn't make it were disposed of unceremoniously. Then, when they were near Zanzibar, the traders decided whether it was worth paying the tax or duty on each person: if not they were murdered on the beach.
    In Stone Town they were kept in various cellars such as the one photographed. Stuffy and claustrophobic, after an average of 3 days in here the weakest collapsed and were chucked on the beach to die. The rest were taken up to the market and apparently flogged on the spot where the Anglican Church's altar now stands; to increase their sale value if they didn't cry out. (I suspect this is a bit of hyperbole for the tourists but then, it wouldn't surprise me.) After all that, being sold must have seemed a minor problem for, whilst plantation life was certainly rough, domestic life was better than they might have had previously.
    One testimony in the exhibition on the site of the old slave markets, is from a woman who was accused of being someone's slave and managed to prove her manumission to the magistrate. She was awarded a sum of money and when asked what use she would make of the cash, said that she would buy a slave.
    Another celebrity was Salme (1824-1924), the daughter of Omani Sultan Sayeed Said (d. 1856) and a Circassian concubine from the Caucasus Mountains of Russia who was part of the his harem. She eloped with a German merchant, changed her name to Emily Ruete and wrote "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar" about her life.
    Many women were suria, which was a state of slavery for them but not their children. This has resulted in a rich and varied gene pool in Zanzibar, often in particularly attractive people.
    In 1822, the Omani Arabs signed the Moresby treaty which made it illegal for them to sell slaves to Christian powers. After helping to convince Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar to abolish the trade on 6th June 1873, (in the usual British Diplomatic way,) the Royal Navy enforced the agreement by patrolling the waters and intercepting any dhows with human cargo.
    Interestingly, the good Anglican sailors deliberately attributed the trade in its entirety to heathen Mohammedans. In fact, the richest trader was the infamous Tippu Tip (1837-1905) otherwise known as Hamed bin Mohammed, who was African. Usually though, it was the Africans who collected and the Arabs who divested.
    Despite the best efforts of HM Navy, and numerous photos of rugged matelots lofting liberated and wriggling brown babies into the air, (one can rely on the British shoulder for innocent propaganda,) the trade continued, particularly on the mainland. Slaving was illegal but existed openly until Britain defeated the Germans in the First World War.
    Freedom was not all it cracked up to be, even when the illiterate and often isolated plantation slaves finally understood what it meant that they were free. Some slaves had even been allowed to save a little money they made for their owner and buy property: on manumission they lost the land. Worse, they could not stay on the plantation as squatters and had to leave, becoming vagrants and thus subject to imprisonment and hard labour. The British authorities were concerned about keeping the now government owned plantations running and offered minimal wages to ex-slaves to continue working. Restricted land rights and a compulsory hut tax made sure they never escaped.
    Thus the modern system of slavery was introduced. It has grown in the 21stC in every country of the world to somewhere between 21 to 36 million people. That is more than the number of slaves seized during the entire African slave trade. The International Labour Organisation has put the value of slave labour output at 150 billion USD annually. This includes bonded labour, forced labour, child slavery, early or forced marriage as well as descent based slavery.
    In the news over the past few days, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute revealed that the Uighurs were being captured and made to work as prisoners for multinational companies in China. They are an Islamic people of Turkic origin whom the Chinese Communist Party portrays since 9/11 as auxiliaries of al-Qaeda. Without any evidence. But that didn't stop the US locking 20 of them in Guantanamo Bay for years without being charged with any offence. We don't really care about them of course, (we care about big Brand names being tarnished and wasting all that advertising money,) but still it is slavery.

    “The distinguishing sign of slavery is to have a price, and to be bought for it.” [John Ruskin]
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    Mona's Meanderings

    Incredibly sad.

    3/4/20Reply
    Tony Hammond

    A fascinating and tragic history.....

    3/6/20Reply
     
  • Day18

    Frühstück im Beyt al Salaam

    March 12 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Heute verlassen wir nach 3 Nächten das Beyt al Salaam. Das Frühstück ist wie in den Tagen zuvor sehr reichhaltig, das Personal super freundlich und aufmerksam.
    Wir haben uns hier sehr wohl gefühlt, trotz der kleineren Probleme, zuletzt mit dem Wasser.
    Für die kommenden Tage geht es jetzt in den Norden.
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  • Day17

    Lunch im Beach House

    March 11 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Nach dem ausführlichen Stadtrundgang suchen wir uns ein schönes schattiges Plätzchen auf der Terrasse des Beach House. Wir genießen die entspannte Atmosphäre, Cocktails und frischen Fisch bevor unser Ausflug zur Prison Island startet.Read more

  • Day491

    Rocky Road

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Stone Town is the UNESCO World Heritage listed part of the capital and a maze of small alleys like every other old town in the world. Could easily be Andalucia except for the young girls having lunch beside the road.
    Most of the town was built in the 19th century when Zanzibar was one of the most important trading centres in the Indian Ocean region. The coraline rock of Zanzibar was a good building material but it is also easily eroded and many houses are falling apart. Thanks to UNESCO they are gradually being fixed up and a theme park developed.
    Really, this is just a bit of quasi-cultural voyeurism for sweaty tourists looking to spend a couple of weeks on one of the delightful beaches, It is easy to avoid Tanzanian poverty by not venturing into the interior except perhaps on an air-conditioned tour of one of the clove or cinnamon plantations.
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    Tony Hammond

    It looks like they are running a cloved shop.....

    3/6/20Reply
     
  • Day27

    Letzter Absacker in der Taperia 2.0

    March 21 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Zum Abschluss geht es für uns noch einmal zu Stephen Pinto in die Taperia 2.0
    Wir bekommen individuell gemixte Cocktails und unterhalten uns nett mit Stephen und seiner Frau Anna, einer Sommeliere aus Spanien.
    Ein wunderbarer Abschluss eines außergewöhnlichen und dennoch sehr entspannten Urlaubs während der Pandemie.
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  • Day491

    Artistes

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Even though Zanzibar is known as the Spice Island, the Spice Girls were not its most famous offspring.

    The greatest man, at least for my generation, was Farrokh Bulsara, the son of Parsi Indian parents. He used to live in this house, or maybe not as there is more than one claimant to associative prestige. The Zanzibar Revolution in 1964 encouraged the family to flee to Middlesex, where he continued to live until dying of complications due to aids.

    Bend the knee respectively for I speak of Royalty; the Queen, and in particular Freddy Mercury.

    Another famous building is the Majestic Theater; apparently the first flick shack in Africa. Again, the story is a little light on details: some say the original burnt down and this is a replica, or maybe just a new building. At any rate, it is now reduced to replaying football matches on a projection TV.

    BTW Zanzibar is also renowned for the Doors, more of that later.
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    Tony Hammond

    Interesting Mercurial history.....

    3/6/20Reply
     
  • Day491

    Entrancing

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Not too musical but a mere 400,000 TSh will get you a carved Door, though for that price it will be more like a nick on the edge than anything like these ones.

    The four-fold doors with an pair adjacent are common and still in use. They are known as Gujarati doors because the Indian lads used to open a shop with 4-fold doors, living at the back of the shop. As business improved they built a second story accessed by the adjacent dual door entrance for their wives and children. Though maybe the wives and children came first and then the second floor. Nobody seems to know and I know how frustrating it must be not to be informed of these details. Sorry about that.Read more

    Tony Hammond

    Adoorable!

    3/6/20Reply
     
  • Day33

    Zanzibar to Bush Camp

    December 27, 2019 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I got up at 4.30am for breakfast before a 6am trudge on my urchin stinging foot from the hotel to the ferry port. We passed through immigration without much difficulty and boarded the ferry. I sat out on the front deck and leaned against the rail as the ferry prow rose up and down into the dark blue waves that looked like momentary mountain ranges reflecting in the bright morning sunlight. I love being out on the open sea, out of sight of any land and, as I watched the increasing swell go under the boat, I fell into a reverie of my recent travelling experiences. I thought about the extreme cruelty and abuse that so many beings are subjected to in nature. I reflected on the appalling experiences of the human slaves in Zanzibar, the daily cruelty that billions of animals are still subjected to by humans, and the pain meted out to thousands of prey animals out on the Serengeti plains by predators. This then is contrasted with the joys and intimacies of life such as Africans with their children or mother elephants with their young. Looking into the wine dark sea, seemingly as all encompassing as the universe through which the Earth sails, it seemed that life and creation had an unavoidable impulse to explore all possibilities of existence, both dark and light, pain and pleasure, in order to find it's right balance like the ecological balance of the African plains or the rolling balance of the boat on the deep waters that, seemingly benign and gentle, but could claim all our lives quickly should the boat's balance fail.
    After about an hour of sailing, with the swell gaining in strength, and the prow rolling and rising beneath my feet, we sighted land again with huge container ships anchored off the coast and the hazy high rise towers of Dar es Salaam rising on the coast. The ferry edged into its docking position, we collected our bags and had a relatively easy passage back onto shore and found Often and his yellow truck waiting for us nearby. This yellow truck has become our home and we felt that same homely security and affection for it after our four days away from it in Zanzobar.
    We stopped in a nearby shopping centre for some lunch and to get provisions for our cooking groups (including my cooking group) who would be preparing all the meals over our wild camps in the bush over the next couple of days. We then set off for the long drive to our first wild bush camp.
    We travelled through very hot pastoral countryside where the temperature reached 34 degrees and even the wind seemed to burn. We stopped for refreshments and for one of our fellow travellers, Steph, to rescue two chameleons from the road who then bit her for her troubles. Later in the day, we drove into a big rain storm that created stunning cloud scapes around a nearby mountain range with incredible contrasts in lights and shades as dark tree silhouettes on the mountain ridges were set against a white background. The storm passed with a rainbow and continuing stunning views of the mountain range. We finally turned off the road at about 6pm and drove down a red soil road to our bush camp. The ants were out in force as we set up our tents. When we started to prepare and cook our food we were swarmed by insects of all kinds, including flying ants. They flew all over us, down the back of my shirt, into my eyes and mouth. If you turned on a head torch to see what you were doing, they swarmed even more. We managed to cook burgers, fried potatoes, coleslaw and guacamole for our fellow travellers, but it was a deeply unpleasant experience and we were eating a lot of insects landing in our meal. I saw fireflies for the first time floating through the air like fairies and giving off occasional bright flashes which seem almost miraculous in nature. We all retired to our tents early after dinner to get respite from the swarming insects. It was another extremely warm night and I took a long time to go off to sleep under a hazy, starry sky amidst the cacophony of insect calls.
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Vuga