The Travel Bug
I am a latecomer to travel & blogging and have a wide ranging interest which will hopefully be displayed in this journal. Always looking for the quirky as you will see! Weiterlesen🇬🇧King's Lynn
  • Is this Opera?

    14. September in Österreich ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Staatsoper or Viennese Opera House was on our hit list from the word go, but it is not easy to get into. I checked the performances over the period we were there and we had the choice of one of Wagner’s ring cycle (all 5 hours worth?!) or ‘Einfuhrungsmatinee zur Premier von DIE VERKAUFTE BRAUT’, on the Sunday Morning between 11&1pm. After a bit of research, I gathered that this was a pre performance of The Bartered Bride by Smetana, so no contest then. We booked a couple of tickets and headed off with no real idea what we were letting ourselves in for, apart from the fact we knew whatever it was would be in German. Well, no surprise there, and we knew we would enjoy the music whatever the language. It was going to be a great experience to attend this world famous Opera House. The building on the outside is partly covered as it is undergoing renovations and gives one no real idea of the incredible interior. It is quite breathtaking, which shouldn’t be a surprise bearing in mind the rest of Vienna. The photos will give you an idea. Interestingly, the auditorium itself was not quite as grand as I had expected, but still pretty special and to our surprise I had booked seats in a box! This was not apparent from the seating plan. The box was clothed in red velvet, had 7 seats and its own anteroom, for hanging coats etc. There were three very charming Austrian ladies on the front row, two empty chairs on the second row and then us on the 3rd, raised on a ledge. Early on it became apparent that this was an introduction to the coming Opera mainly in word, with not that much in the way of music - uh oh! The compère spoke very well with no notes and was clearly very amusing from the audience reaction, although of course the jokes were lost on us. We hope we smiled in all the right places and were introduced to the conductor, director, who told us all about their role in the production and finally, the producer, who once wound up, went on at length with great enthusiasm! The highlight for us was when Peter dropped his water bottle with a great clatter and had to grovel about on the floor to retrieve it. The ladies were very understanding. Music finally arrived in the shape of some of the artists involved in the production. They were excellent as you might expect, accompanied by a maestro on the piano. They sang a little from The Bartered Bride, but then to our confusion gave us a touch of Wagner, Dvorak and Donizetti. All lovely and I’m sure the reasoning was perfectly explained if you understood German. As we said earlier, an experience, and we were glad to have make it inside the Opera House.
    After that, there was only one place to go, Cafe Sacher round the corner for yet more coffee and cake. Can you really have too much?

    We head home tomorrow, albeit with a flight change and possible delay. (thank you BA, there’s always a down side!) It has been a fascinating week and we have enjoyed renewing our acquaintance with Austria. The places we have visited have been captivating and the train travel has worked well. A trip we can thoroughly recommend.
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  • Majestic Vienna

    13. September in Österreich ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This morning we made our way to Josefplatz, right in the middle of Imperial Vienna. We had tickets for a performance at The Spanish Riding School, by the famous Lipizzaner horses. The arena in which they perform is simply fantastic; elliptical in shape, of classical design with 46 Corinthian columns supporting the domed roof & three amazing chandeliers to light their way. These Spanish horses were first brought to Austria by Emperor Maximilian 11 in 1562. In 1580 they were given the name Lipizzaner after a stud farm in Trieste and around the same time the first riding hall was built. The baroque building we see today was completed in 1735, under the reign of Karl V1. On entry to the arena horse and riders ‘bow’ to their founders portrait which is positioned over the royal box. The elegant white stallions that perform are born black and only acquire their dazzling white coats between the ages of 4 and 10. The training of both horse and rider is long and extensive. The ‘ballet’ they perform lasts an hour and is highly disciplined, technical and in three parts. The overall effect is quite magnificent in a setting to match. Photographs are not permitted during the performance, not wishing to startle the horses, but I have included some of the arena.
    After all this artistry a call at one of Vienna’s famous coffee houses was definitely called for. Demel was close by and we soaked in the atmosphere, enjoyed a first class coffee and it was time to sample an apple strudel and vanilla sauce, having ticked off the Sackertorte in Salzburg. Well, it’s almost obligatory isn’t it? Before leaving I purchased some of their special candied violets. The cafe would supply candied violet sorbet to Empress Elizabeth or Sisi as she was known.
    We spent the rest of the day exploring the old part of Vienna in all its glory. The Cathedral is at its heart and known as Stephansdom or ‘Steffl’ to the locals. It is pure Gothic, although parts of it date back to the 11th century. The Cathedral was badly damaged by bombing during World War 11 and was lovingly rebuilt from the ashes as a symbol of hope for the future. We were lucky enough to listen to the choir and accompanying orchestra rehearsing for a performance this evening.
    Vienna was of course the capital of the Habsburg Empire for centuries and at its centre is the Hofburg, Vienna’s former Imperial Palace. It is a vast grand building surrounded by museums, the Parliament building, the Burg Theatre and others in similar classic style. I am sure the idea was to ensure any visitor to Vienna was seriously impressed and intimidated by the power of the Emperor and the Hapsburg dynasty and you would be hard pressed not to be.
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  • Vienna and Art

    12. September in Österreich ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We arrived in Vienna by train as planned and settled into The Kaiserhof, our home for the next few nights. Just down the road was a restaurant with its own microbrewery (very much to Peter’s approval) and we chose the Tafelspitz, which is a local speciality we wanted to try and excellent it was. By accident we ordered one portion to share and it was just as well. There was no way we would have managed a portion each!
    Today has been an Art day, in particular one Gustav Klimt. I’m a fan and couldn’t return to Vienna, his home town, without a pilgrimage to admire his work once more. Peter was a little unsure exactly what he was going to see and I must admit to keeping him slightly in the dark, which was undoubtedly a good move.
    We started out at The Belvedere, a baroque palace built by Prince Eugen of Savoy, a celebrated Hapsburg general. He used the the reward monies for his victories during the war of Spanish Succession to undertake one of the most ambitious building projects by an individual to create his summer residence. There is an Upper and Lower Palace joined by what was once a classic Le Notre French style garden, which is sadly in poor shape, clearly due to the box hedging being ravaged by the dreaded moth. It is in the process of being replaced and consequently a complete remodel is underway. The interiors of the palace are beautiful and pure baroque and are now devoted to art and there is much to see beyond Klimt.
    However, there is only so much time, so the Secession movement was our focus (well, make that mine). Works by Klimt, Egon Schiele & Richard Gerstl dominate, with the odd Monet thrown in (a contemporary), plus some stunning paintings created by women, who of course were wildly underestimated at the time.
    The famous Marble Hall is spectacular and was the setting for the signing of the state treaty to guarantee the re-establishment of a free and democratic Austria in 1955, some ten years after the end of the 2nd World War. It was signed by the four allied and associated powers,
    USA, Great Britain, Russia and France, plus the Austrian foreign minister Leopold Figl. The agreement was then announced from the balcony to a massed crowd that had gathered below.
    We moved on to Karlskirche, a striking baroque church it is difficult to describe. All I will say is it is a vision in white and gold. I will include photos which will tell the story better than I ever could. To our surprise it is dedicated to Charles Borromeo of the Isola Bella and Madre family, the patron saint of the fight against the plague and was built in 1715-1757 to thank God for delivering Vienna from the epidemic of 1713. We knew a little of Charles Borromeo and his sainthood from our visit early in the year to the Italian Lakes, but not enough to not be surprised at his coming into the picture in Vienna.
    Our final port of call for the day was to the Secession Building. The Secession movement was founded by Gustav Klimt and a group of like minded artists in 1897. It was a breakaway from the traditional artistic view of the Viennese elite. This incredible building was designed as as an exhibition venue in 1898 and conceived as an ‘art temple’ of early modernism and a key work of Viennese art nouveau. It must have been startling and controversial when it was first opened, but has stood the test of time and still is a shining beacon of modern architecture today. In 1902 its first major exhibition was dedicated to Ludwig van Beethoven, for which Gustav Klimt created his famous Beethoven frieze.
    The fresco paid homage to Beethoven’s 9th symphony and in particular the Ode to Joy anthem. It was originally displayed in the large white exhibition hall, with a window in the wall showing a famous sculpture of Beethoven outside as part of the installation. The frieze was later moved to its permanent position in a basement space. The room is a rectangular white box, empty apart from the fabulous art work that circumnavigates the top of three of the walls. I accept it is possibly an acquired taste. We walked in and Peter gazed around looking somewhat puzzled: “is this it then?” was the comment. Perhaps I had overdone the majesty of the work! It is of course all in the eye of the beholder and whilst to me it is a masterpiece, to others maybe less so. We sat down and talked it through - I don’t think he is convinced. Art lesson completed, but a failure!
    It was time to find supper in the shape of a great fish restaurant in the Naschmarkt. A beer always helps .
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  • Vienna and Art

    12. September in Österreich ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We arrived in Vienna by train as planned and settled into The Kaiserhof, our home for the next few days. Tafelspitz was our choice of meal last night, a local specialty we had to try and excellent it was. By accident we ordered one portion to share and it was just as well. There was no way we would have managed a portion each!
    Today has been an Art day, in particular one Gustav Klimt. I’m a particular fan and couldn’t come back to Vienna, his home town without a pilgrimage to look upon his work once more. Peter was a little unsure what he was going to see and I deliberately kept him slightly in the dark, which was undoubtedly a good move.
    We started out at The Belvedere, a baroque palace built by Prince Eugen of Savoy, a celebrated Hapsburg general. He used the reward monies for his victories during the war of Spanish Succession to undertake one of the most ambitious building projects by an individual to create his summer residence. There is an Upper and Lower Palace joined by what was once a classic Le Notre French style garden, which is sadly in poor shape, clearly due to the box hedging being ravaged by the dreaded moth. They are in the process of being replaced and a complete remodel is underway.
    The interiors of the palace are beautiful and pure baroque. The buildings are now devoted to art and there is much to see besides Klimt.
    However, there is only so much time, so the Secession movement was our focus. Works by Klimt, Egon Schiele & Richard Gerstl dominate, with the odd Monet (a contemporary), plus some stunning paintings created by women, who of course were wildly underestimated at the time.
    The famous Marble Hall is spectacular and was used to sign the state treaty to guarantee the re-establishment of a free and democratic Austria in 1955, some 10 years after the end of the 2nd World War. It was signed by the four allied and associated powers, USA, Great Britain, Russia and France, plus the Austrian foreign minister, Leopold Figl. The agreement was then announced from the balcony to a massed crowd that had gathered below.
    We moved on to Karlskirche, a striking baroque church it is difficult to describe. I will include photos which will tell the story better than I ever could. It is dedicated to Charles Borromeo of the Isola Bella and Madre family, the patron saint of the fight against the plague and was built in 1715-1757 to thank God from delivering Vienna from the epidemic of 1713.
    Our final port of call was to the Secession building. The Secession movement was founded by Gustav Klimt and a group of artists in 1897. It was a breakaway from the traditional artistic views of the Viennese elite. This incredible building was designed as an exhibition venue in 1898, conceived as an ‘art temple’ of early modernism and a key work of Viennese art nouveau. It must have startling when it was first opened and is no less so now, having stood the test of time. In 1902 its first major exhibition featured a major show dedicated to Ludwig van Beethoven, for which Gustav Klimt created his famous Beethoven Frieze. The fresco paid homage to Beethoven’s 9th symphony and the Ode to Joy. It was originally displayed in the large white exhibition hall with a window in the wall showing a famous sculpture of Beethoven outside. The frieze was later moved to its permanent position in the basement space. The room is a rectangular white box apart from the fabulous art work that circumnavigates the top of three of the walls. I accept it is possibly an acquired taste. We walked in and Peter looked around looking somewhat puzzled. “Is this it then?!”; perhaps I had overdone the majesty of the work!! It’s all in the eye of the beholder and whilst to me it is a masterpiece to others maybe less so! We sat down and talked it through - I don’t think he was convinced. Art lesson completed, but a failure!
    It was time to find supper in the shape of a great fish restaurant in the Naschmarkt. A beer always helps.
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  • Hallstatt

    9. September in Österreich ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today has been moving day and we decided for this trip we would use the trains. Now had we been in the UK, no doubt the drivers would be on strike for an annual Legoland visit for the whole family, including a distant cousin whom they never speak to. Here, it is a very different story. The information on arrival at Salzburg’s modern clean station was clear, even to those not speaking German as a first language. Arriving on the proscribed platform to our astonishment the train was already there and there was plenty of time to organise luggage and find the reserved seats and guess what there was no one else sitting in them refusing to move! It went out on time to the minute and arrived in the same vein throughout the journey. We changed to a smaller regional train that took us to Hallstatt station and then walked the short distance to the ferry which used to be the only way of reaching this picturesque tiny village hugging the shores of Lake Hallstatt, a classic drowned glaciated valley.. We passed through here about 15 yrs ago on a walking holiday and vowed to return if we ever had the chance. Peter and a friend had detoured off to visit the local salt mine and were late returning and ended up running through the village in order to catch the ferry, so saw very little. The rest of us sat on the terrace of the Gruner Baum Hotel drinking tea and taking in the views, which were and are glorious. It’s risky returning - as things are not always as you remember them. Roads and tunnels have now been put in and the village is clearly firmly on the tourist route, which is a disadvantage, but we will see if its charm remains. Hallstatt evolved as a result of the salt mining nearby. Man has been digging out salt deposits in the Dachstein Mountains for some 5000 years. The name Hallstatt means ‘salt’ ‘settlement’ and originally began as living accommodation for the miners, the salt being transported out of the village by boat. I suspect the beauty of the surroundings were secondary at the time. Peter says the salt mine visit was fascinating and I’ll take his word for it! This is meant to be a couple of days of chill before hitting Vienna. We’ll see what tomorrow brings?

    Well, we have certainly had plenty of chill today, but not quite where I had hoped. It has rained non stop, and we took our planned constitutionals with umbrellas in hand. I had booked a lovely balcony room overlooking the lake, planning to sit on it and drink in the views - the best played plans……….

    Also, my concerns have sadly been justified. The setting and village is still lovely, but gone are the charming artisan workshops to be replaced with cafes and the usual tat. Coaches deposit visitors at one end of the village (not possible 15 years ago) for their hour long slot and they wander desultorily through the village, more concerned with taking umpteenth selfies of themselves, pouting at the camera. One couple were still commanding the same spot half an hour later when we returned from our walk! If that’s all they’re interested in it would be better if they stayed at home posing in the back garden!!
    Weiterlesen

  • The City of Music

    7. September in Österreich ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This is the second instalment of our Golden Anniversary travels. We touched down in Salzburg last night, as the sun was setting behind the surrounding mountains in shades of pink and gold and made our way to the appropriately named Goldgasse Hotel situated in the old part of the city. Our hostess was on the door to meet us and plied us with a welcome glass of something sparkling whilst the formalities were dealt with. Something tells me all will be well, as the supper that followed was of a similar ilk!
    Salzburg has long been on our hit list and is a small city that has changed little over the years I suspect. To say music is at its heart would not be far from the truth. It is of course the birthplace and home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the musical genius, and we have visited his birthplace today, along with his marital home, which is a museum, now next to a Spar shop. “How useful!” exclaimed Peter, “should the great man need a snack between compositions”! His musical output was prodigious, (Mozart’s not Peter’s!), having written his first symphony at eight years of age, but he struggled to make a living, as his outgoings always eclipsed his income (a common problem!). His early death at 35 in December 1791 left the world with the beginnings of modern music and his wife Constantia was tragically left to bring up their two surviving children alone. She was 29.
    Salzburg is full of beautiful architectural masterpieces and is a joy to walk around. Lunchtime found us walking along the banks of the River Salzach when what should come into view but the terrace cafe of Hotel Sacher of Sachertorte fame. This of course was exactly what Peter had been waiting for and we took a table overlooking the river and the castle looming above the city, whilst we awaited delivery of the long awaited coffee and cake! It was no disappointment and quietly enjoyed to the full in the warm open air whilst watching the world go by.
    It is Sunday and the inhabitants are out walking and socialising, beautifully turned out to a man and woman. No scruffy souls here. It was a joy to behold. Most of the fascinating individual shops are closed, it being the Sabbath, and we were reminded of days gone by in England, when Sunday was special and not just like any other day.
    The other musical claim to fame of course is Salzburg being the city where ‘The Sound of Music was filmed. You can take ‘the tour’ should you so desire, but we chose to wander through many sites easily recognisable from the film and I kept expecting Julie Andrews and the Von Trapp children to appear around the corner at any moment, singing Do-Ray-Me! This was particularly true in the Mirabellgarten and the Pegasus fountain. In the grounds of the Schloss Mirabelle is a very grand Aviary built by one of the Archbishops to house his collection of singing birds. They were apparently in glorious full song today and so we went to take a look. A bit of a disappointment! The birdsong was on tape and an art installation of modern type was on display to represent our feathered friends. I’ll upload a photo so you can appraise the artistry!
    Late in the day we reached The Dom Quartier of Baroque splendour, again little changed over the centuries. The superb Cathedral was Mozart’s church, where he was baptised and later became organist. Imagine the musical firsts performed here and written by the master?
    It was whilst I was taking photos of the square that Peter had one of his incidents. Ever since we have been married he has been approached by strangers from time to time, demanding to know ‘where the Persil is kept these days young man’ and similar enquiries. Obviously, he is tall and was black haired, now white, and stands with an upright posture and an air of authority about him, as if he knows what he is doing, (quite untrue of course, he is just waiting for me!). Usually the question is in English and so can be answered with a degree of aplomb, not on this occasion. Out came a spate of questions from a German lady who seemed to think Peter was the answer to her prayers and didn’t take it very well when he didn’t ‘sprechen sie Deutsch’. Oh to be able to take a video at the correct moment rather than to be off taking photographs elsewhere! Let’s see what tomorrow brings!!
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  • 50 years on!

    20. Mai in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It seems quite unbelievable that Peter and I have been married 50 years this May. A lot of water has flowed under the bridge in that time;
    four different homes, two beloved children and five equally beloved grandchildren. We decided to celebrate by visiting the gardens of a region of Italy as yet unknown to us, The Italian Lakes, in the company of some old friends who also love their little patch of paradise and appreciate a beautiful garden. Lake Como is just over an hour from Milan airport and we all arrived at the Grand Hotel Menaggio on its shores mid afternoon. The welcome was warm, the sun was shining and the views from our balcony more than lived up to expectations, as you will see.
    We sat and enjoyed the celebratory cake provided together with a glass of wine and life was good!
    The next few days will involve visits to some of the stunning gardens and their villas in the vicinity.
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  • Finale

    15. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    And so we come to the end of our three week journey through Canada and tomorrow we repack our cases and head for home via Calgary. On our way back to Buffalo Mountain Lodge we stopped, yet again, at the hoodoo lookout just down the road and this time the smoke had lifted sufficiently for us to get a glimpse of the view. Again, breathtaking - wherever you look. It is so disappointing that our last few days have been blighted by wildfire smoke, but Mother Nature we cannot control!

    We have seen cities, towns, railways and countryside to die for. Canada is a very diverse nation and I have been struck by just how young this country is. Younger by far than the USA and that’s saying something. The country is vast and the population small, mostly settled along the US border. If you look on any map you will come across the word ‘wilderness’ time and time again and mostly Canada is exactly that, beautiful uncharted wilderness. You can travel for miles without seeing a living soul. It is an interesting mix of British and American influences, gradually forging all of this into a strong, purposeful, growing young country. We have enjoyed our journey immensely and we wish Canada all the luck in the world.

    Today, I saw a quotation from a First Nation writer called Dominic Crowshoe, that struck a chord, as it seemed to reflect Canada and the Canadians perfectly. We could all do with remembering it in truth, and so farewell until the next time.

    “Resilience is a spirit that affects anyone willing to endure hardships the world has presented us. And to overcome the challenges we face.”
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  • History versus Nature!

    15. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Visibility was no better this morning, so sadly, we had to come up with an alternative plan to the Gondola. The decision was to spend the morning investigating the history of Banff and the afternoon communing with nature!
    We battled our way through the Banff traffic over the Bow River to the Cave and Basin National Historic Site. This is where the National Parks of Canada began. The sulphurous cave had been known to the indigenous populations for hundreds of years and had become a meeting place, the waters being important for spiritual healing. In 1883 three Canadian Pacific railway workers discovered the cave. This coincided with the completion of the railroad to Banff and the tourist potential for wealthy Victorian travellers was realised. By 1885 the Canadian government had been petitioned and declared the hot springs a reserve. In 1887 a greater area of 260 square miles became known as The Rocky Mountains National Park, inspired by the the Yellowstone example. This was followed by additional parks at Yoho & Glacier in 1886 and Lake Louise and Jasper in 1892 and so the fascination and trek to Western Canada began. It was not until 1911 that people could access the area by road from Calgary. Before then the only option was by the Canadian Pacific Railroad. The company promoted Banff as an area of outstanding natural beauty and a spa, where guests could take the waters. They financed the building of the Banff Springs Hotel, Chateau Lake Louise and Jasper Park Lodge to accommodate their clients and many more hoteliers followed suit. The Park was extended to 2600 square miles in 1930 and the success of Banff and the Rocky Mountains was guaranteed.
    The cave itself is tiny and accessed down a low dark tunnel. A natural hole in the roof admits a startling and unexpected shaft of light that falls onto the warm pool of turquoise water. First Nation warriors would lower themselves on hand made ropes to collect the water in skin vessels. Outside is another warm pool, one of many that once existed. A swimming pool was on the site at one time. In the small outside pool resides the worlds only population of a very tiny snail, that can tolerate the hot, sulphurous conditions. They are about the size of a small finger nail and spend their time eating the algae that reside in the pool. A perfect symbiotic relationship between snail and pool! We could see some moving about on the surface floating algae. Isn’t it strange how the discovery of a small cave at exactly the right time has resulted in the creation of these beautiful parks that we can enjoy today.
    We moved on to the Banff Springs Hotel for a drink, to get a feel of what the Victorian visitor took for granted. It is a massive grey stone gothic castle perched high above the town and the River Bow, looking out to the mountains. I was struck by the incongruity of the building now and it must have seemed even more a fish out of water in the late 1800s. I then remembered a similar feeling in Shimla, northern India, before concluding yet again, that baronial Scottish architecture was the style of the time, during Queen Victoria’s reign and copied all over the world. Inside, the feeling of Victorian splendour is replicated with opulence and we sat in the Rundle Bar sipping our drinks, feeling as if we had been transported back one hundred years. A wedding was being staged out on the terrace and a grand piano being played in the bar to entertain us. A reminder of gentler more formal times, when the ‘shorts’ brigade would not have been tolerated in the building!
    Our afternoon took on a different hue. We moved on to Vermillion Lakes on the outskirts of the town, walked the Fenland Forest trail (couldn’t not, could we, with a name like that!) and to explore Vermillion Lakes Drive. This is one of the few wetland areas to be found in the Rockies, home to different plant species and lots of birds. The views across the water to the mountains beyond are breathtaking, as you will see!
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  • Banff

    14. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning showed a little improvement from yesterday, regarding the hazy smoke filling the sky, but not enough to see the majestic mountains that surround the town. They appear as ghostly apparitions hovering above us. It’s such a shame, but we knew we had to find an activity that was not purely scenic. Consequently we headed for the Bow Valley Parkway, Highway 1A, which runs alongside Highway I (Trans Canada) for most of the way between Lake Louise and Banff. It is a picturesque drive even being unable to see
    the surrounding mountains clearly. There are lookouts to observe the views, some more successful than others, and we plodded on doing our best to imagine what we couldn’t see. The plan was to stop at Johnston Canyon and to walk part of the trail to the first waterfall. A carefully constructed path runs through the canyon beside the gurgling Johnstone Creek. The sides of the gorge rise ever higher and it narrows to just a few feet in width. Trees clothe the walls, mosses abound and tiny wildflowers make their presence felt. Chipmunks and squirrels dart about and the sky is just visible above our heads. It is a classic gorge, but sadly we were never alone to contemplate its beauty. Finding a parking space in one of the two large car parks was a battle and the canyon scene was rather like the photo of the Capilano Suspension Bridge, except the path didn’t sway violently! We eventually reached and admired the first waterfall before turning back. Walking on to the second waterfall was more than Peter could consider. To quote him “I’m waterfalled out”!!
    We drove on to look at some of the Mountain views, but could see little. I will include a photograph so you can get my drift. Heading back to Banff we were stopped at a railway crossing and waited a full five minutes for a very long goods train to pass. An engine at the front and in the middle.
    We had a look around the town this afternoon. It’s setting is it’s crowning glory; being surrounded by the mountains of the Banff National Park, that normally would be visible from all standpoints. The centre we found overblown and touristy, but the residential districts are charming and it appears to have everything one might need, providing one’s tastes are not too sophisticated. It is clearly horrendously busy at all times, but with a little ingenuity we managed to find a car space up towards the arts centre.
    Interestingly, not really feeling we had achieved that much, we had actually walked five miles today, so earned our supper.
    Fingers crossed we will be able to ride the gondola tomorrow. The haze needs to retreat to make it worthwhile.

    Quote of the day:

    Water is the most expressive element in nature
    It responds to every mood
    From tranquility to turbulence

    Walter Phillips
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  • A Blank Day

    13. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Well, I’m not quite sure what to say this evening, as all plans went out of the window this morning. We woke up to what we would call blanket fog everywhere. It was so thick first thing, we couldn’t even see the water of Lake Louise. I learned later that this is the result of the wildfires. The wind had changed direction to our detriment. As I mentioned it has been hazy the last couple of days, reducing visibility, but this morning there was none. Consequently, we had to put aside our plans to explore Yoho NP as there would be literally nothing to see. It was moving day anyway, so we made our way to Banff, our final port of call, earlier than planned. We arrived early afternoon and it was heaving, a somewhat unpleasant shock after the last few days! We had a car hire problem to sort out and so took the opportunity to do that. It took the rest of the afternoon!!
    We are staying at Buffalo Mountain Lodge on the outskirts of the town and will have to wait and see if conditions improve overnight. I’ll keep in touch, but sadly nothing of great interest to report.
    I’ll post some photos that didn’t make the cut the first time round, for your interest.
    Firstly, of David Thompson the explorer/ geographer who produced the first map of the area. A great friend of Simon Fraser of a similar ilk. Both have rivers named after them, named for one by the other - if you get my drift!
    Secondly, some delicious food pics to make you drool. Yep, tasted as good as they looked.
    Thirdly of a rather sad lodgepole pine. Many of the forests are looking very sad as the lodgepole pines are slowly dying, due to the infestation of a little beetle that is boring through the bark and allowing disease and freezing temperatures to kill great swathes of the forest. Sadly, there is nothing to be done and natural selection will have to take its course. In case people have forgotten it is the way of the world, not just in trees!
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  • Lake Louise

    12. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We were really tired after yesterday’s high jinks and decided to have a quieter’lake’ day and to enjoy Chateau Lake Louise, which is a stunning make believe French Chateau situated right on the lake. Having said all that, we ended up walking 6 miles one way and another, so plenty of steps. The weather has been overcast and again a bit hazy, so the views are not as clear as one would like, but regardless the beauty of the scenery touches the heart.
    This morning we walked the footpath around Lake Louise, which extends half way around its circumference. We were not alone, as there were plenty of visitors doing the same, of all nationalities. There were beautiful wild flowers and lots of little chipmunks, some of whom were so tame as to almost be posing for photographs as you’ll see! It is a different story this evening as I write to you by the window. All is still and calm and the crowds have gone. It is a privilege to see it in its more natural state.
    The afternoon saw us visit Moraine Lake using the hotel shuttle. It is only possible to visit on a tour of one type or another, the narrow winding road being closed to private cars. It is also only open during the summer months, as during the winter the lake freezes over and temperatures can reach -40 degrees, making the road impassable.
    We had an hour and half to take it all in and followed our drivers advice by heading for the ‘Rock Pile’ first. This is a steep stepped climb to the top of ….well….a rock pile funnily enough! It takes about 20 mins each way. The sun had come out and the temperature risen, hence it was quite arduous, but worth every step. The view over the lake was absolutely breathtaking. Mountains encircle the water and the colour is a vibrant turquoise blue. We walked part of the footpath also, but undoubtedly the view to be had was from the rock pile. A gorgeous afternoon. On our way back the driver asked which of the two lakes we preferred. No one could answer. Both are spectacular.
    This evening we ate at the Fairview restaurant and had a window table, so could drink in that sublime view whilst attempting to do justice to the equally sublime food. This is yet another very special place to hold in the memory bank.
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  • Driving the Icefields Parkway

    11. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Icefields Parkway was constructed in the 1960s and took one year to complete, which is some feat when you consider the length of it. Today we were driving one section from Jasper to Lake Louise, which is a distance of just under 250 kms. Those of you who have had the pleasure of this journey do not need me to tell you how spectacular it is in every direction. You seriously do not know where to look. There are many pull offs along the way to stop and admire the majestic scenery, so it is a stop and start trip! Interestingly, you meet the same people at each stop, as you are all doing the same thing. It becomes quite funny. The best way to give you an idea is to post the photos. The weather was cloudy today and not so clear, so please bear in mind that these only give half an indication of the drama and beauty of the scene. In reality the views are mind blowing.
    Our lunch time stop was at The Columbia Icefields Centre. Here you are able to get up close and personal with the Athabasca Glacier and it was obviously a chance I could not pass by. Peter was, I think, ambivalent until we arrived and he saw the scale of the ice. I had booked a lunchtime slot, which was quiet and we set off in the Columbia Bus on the five minute drive from the Adventure Centre to the stop where you board the Ice Explorer. This is a huge 6 wheeled ice tractor capable of climbing and descending 30degree slopes and driving on to the ice. We drove slowly down the steep lateral moraine (debris left at the sides by the glacier) and on to the end of the glacier and had the chance to then spend 20 mins on the ice. That was enough, the temperature was a good twenty degrees cooler than up at the Centre, but what an experience.
    This glacier originates from the Columbia Ice Sheet, which is the size of the cities of Washington DC and Vancouver together. Six glaciers overflow down mountainsides in the area and are in truth slow moving rivers of ice. They are fascinating. From a distance the glacier looks smooth, but it is far from it close to. Where it tumbles over a ridge the ice is rucked and thrown up in large spikes with deep crevasses splitting the glacier. As it hits smooth ground the ice river fans out, but is still ‘hummocky’ with rivulets of water running off it. When you can see the pure ice it is a clear blue, although the surface is often dirty as it slowly erodes. The ice was formed during the last Ice Age, 18,000 years ago, when the Wisconsin Ice Sheet covered virtually the whole of northern Canada and what we see today are the remnants. The Adventure Centre is some way away overlooking the glaciers built high on the terminal moraine (debris pushed in front of the ice). It shows you how the ice has retreated since 1840 and of course is still doing so. Interestingly, this is the second time that I have heard promulgated that the natural cycles of earths tilting on its axis have a lot to do with the cooling and warming of the atmosphere; tropical periods and Ice Ages, every 100,000 years. Geology can of course substantiate this. Our habits have undoubtedly not helped, but the Canadians feel that human activity is far from the simplistic answer.
    We followed this amazing experience, with a visit to the Sky Walk. This is recently built and undoubtedly a technological wonder. A semi circular glass walkway projects out over the Sunwapta Valley and you can look down at your feet through the glass floor to the valley floor some 200feet below. This glass is strong enough to hold the weight of several Ice Explorer tractors and yet looks fragile and elegant. I am not that good with heights, but never felt in the slightest bit nervous. It is a very clever piece of engineering.
    So, quite a morning. We left the centre at four o’clock to drive the rest of the way to Lake Louise, arriving at 6.30. This is our luxury stay at The Chateau on the Lake. Gorgeous!
    We can look out of the bedroom window to the clear turquoise Lake Louise, named after Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter, Princess Louise. We will enjoy!
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  • Jasper National Park

    10. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We collected a car today and organised park permits etc. Quite rightly, a charge is made for accessing any of the National Parks in Canada. It helps maintain them and keep them in pristine condition.
    Jasper is a small attractive tourist town in the Athabasca valley, surrounded by high mountain peaks wherever you look. People like us visit in the summer and skiers in the winter. I’m reminded of Flagstaff in Arizona, where goods trains are a huge part of life.
    The station here has a dominant role to play too, not only with The Rocky Mountaineer.
    Massive amounts of goods are moved by rail in Canada. We have seen half mile goods trains on several occasions and there are very few large juggernauts on the highways, in fact they are banned from some roads altogether. Interestingly, you are only allowed to live in Jasper if you work here. Second homes do not exist, as the authorities do not want to destroy the town with an influx of wealthy home owners who do nothing for the area. I can appreciate that, because that would surely happen as it has in the UK.
    We have made several small trips today under our own steam.
    Pyramid Lake is a short drive to the north of the town climbing steadily. The lake is a beautiful blue, as they all seem to be and we started off for a short walk, to a small island just off shore, joined by a bridge. We hadn’t taken too many steps when we espied two huge female elk browsing the undergrowth just off the path. We watched them for a while, as they eyed us, before deciding to take a photo from another viewpoint! They can be very dangerous just now, as it is calving season. I did take some photos though which I’ll post.
    We decided to visit two spots at this end of The Icefields Parkway, which we will also hit tomorrow. We drove up a switchback road with incredible views to the base of Mt Edith Cavell. (named after the British nurse executed by the Germans during WW1, for helping allied soldiers to escape through the lines - she was born in Swardeston Norfolk, where her father was the Vicar) I had hoped to see the wildflower meadow, but hadn’t appreciated it was a two hour hike each way and time wasn’t on our side. There were however several beauties growing at the base and again the views were stupendous, so it was certainly not a wasted journey. We moved on to the Athabasca Falls, still using the beautiful back road that had been recommended to us. Here is the Athabasca River in full spate, over a spectacular falls. Again it is difficult to describe the power and beauty of the water, even in a very small version of Niagara. Of course the setting of background mountains adds to the drama. There was even a rainbow! You’ll see what I mean by the photos.
    A change of scene tomorrow, so we’ll see what unfolds!
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  • The Flora & Fauna of the Maligne Valley

    9. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As an addendum, I would like to introduce you to some of the flowers and animals we saw today. I felt the previous section was already too long, so have added this piece.
    The flora around Maligne Lake was subtle and beautiful as you will see. It is the time for wild flowers so I will be keeping my eye out for more, particularly in the Alpine Meadows.
    The photos will tell the story.
    Of course there is wildlife galore in the Rockies, some sweet and harmless, others less so.
    Our guide gave us a long lecture on what to do if meeting a bear round the corner - heaven forbid! The précis of it all was if it’s a Grizzly play dead and it ‘should lose interest’. I was rather perturbed by the ‘should’! If it’s a black bear you’ll have to fight for your life if you can’t retreat, because it will kill and eat you. Hit it on the nose seemed to be the preferred strategy. I’d have died of fright first, so possibly not necessary.
    On our way back we came across an osprey and it’s nest, two mountain sheep traversing an unbelievably steep rock face, an elk resting in the undergrowth (no photo sorry), and finally a black bear foraging by the side of the road. How lucky were we?
    Our guide on the Mary Schaffer told a fantastic story of Mike, the wildlife warden, in these parts, whose job it is to keep,an eye on the animal population, in particular the bears. He watches them by powerful telescope high up in the meadows and was worried to see a Grizzly laying on its front, day after day. In the end, he decided he would have to investigate and made his way up there. To his astonishment the bear was happily laying on the carcass of a dead elk, feasting and sleeping continuously, obviously protecting his food supply by laying on it!! He knows most of the bears individually and when this individual woke from hibernation the following spring, he arranged to weigh him. After hibernation, when a bear will lose one third of its body weight, he still weighed 700lbs! I asked Nick how on earth you weigh a Grizzly? ‘ Ah’ he said, ‘it’s complicated and basically involves a block and tackle and a helicopter’ The mind boggles!
    Enjoy the photos.

    My phrase of the Day for you all:-

    The Meaning of Life : Create, Experience, Understand, Expand.
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  • Jasper - Maligne Valley

    9. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    There is clearly no rest for the wicked and we were up bright and early to set off on a small local tour, as we have no car until tomorrow. The sun is shining and the sky a brilliant blue. It looks like being a hot one!
    Maligne Canyon was our first call. Geologically and geographically this is a fascinating area. It is partly limestone country, so there are lots of mysterious waterways, due to the solubility of the rock and its faults and weaknesses. It is thought that during the last Ice Age the whole area was covered by a huge ice sheet 200-300 meters thick and this rock canyon was originally a cave carved out by water that flowed under the glacier. The weight of the ice collapsed the roof of the cave along its weakest fault line and when the ice eventually retreated the canyon was very much as we see it today. Rushing streams continue the erosion today and the topography is changing all the time. There is a ‘chock block’ erratic wedged at the head of the canyon, which will gradually be eroded until it is small enough to fall to the canyon floor. Amazingly, fossils are clearly to be seen in the bed rock we were walking over. It was a drool worthy scene for sad creatures like me and was only to get better.
    Our next call was Medicine Lake, a most unusual feature. At the moment the lake is quite low and would normally be a lot higher, but whatever the level, come the winter the water will disappear, often completely. The indigenous Stoney people who have lived in the area for thousands of years christened this the Medicine lake because of what they thought were it’s supernatural powers to rejuvenate and heal itself annually. We now know that the lake bed is riddled with sink holes and underground waterways that drain the water away during the dry season and feed lakes further downstream that seemingly have no river supplying them. It is the most beautiful sight as you will see from the photos. Pale blue in colour and surrounded by low peaks. There were catastrophic forest fires in 2016 that devastated the trees all around and they are only now staring to regrow. A bald eagles nest is perched high on a tree by the water and at the time it had a eaglet in the nest, which astonishingly survived the intense heat and conflagration.
    Our final call is at Maligne Lake itself, where we are to take a cruise. You arrive at the bridge and have your first glimpse of this most magnificent lake. This is the most dramatic of them all and you will see why from the photos. Again created by glaciation it is a deep turquoise blue lake because of the glacial silt held suspended in the water, which refracts the sunlight to a glorious shade of blue. It only got better. We set off on the Mary Schaffer, named for a local lady who studied and wrote a book on the flora and fauna of the region. I went to stand out on the deck at the back of the boat as we zipped along, the better to see the fantastic scenery all around. As we approached the far end, the peaks were even more dramatic, sharp arêtes cutting the sky, rock scoured and polished by glaciation and glaciers hanging down from the peaks. Only three weeks ago a sudden fall of 3ft of snow paralysed the area and if we had visited then, none of this would have been possible. Gliding round the final corner of Maligne Lake we drifted to a stop to disembark and admire this patch of paradise. The sun shone glinting off the turquoise water. The peaks soared all around and in front of us was Spirit Island. All was still and silent and like the Stoney people before us, I think everyone was captured by the special atmosphere of this place. A small boardwalk has been constructed to allow for better viewing. The photos will tell the story.
    Wild flowers grew all around, right to the waters edge. You can imagine my reaction - heaven on earth.
    Spirit Island is sacred to the Stoney people. After many years of separation, they now return to perform their annual ceremony and there is a real attempt to rebuild the relationship between peoples. Their ethos of life is that all natural things have a spirit
    and that you should introduce yourself to a piece of nature to make your peace with it, usually by a laying on of hands.
    The definition of home is that wherever the light touches your skin, be it sunlight, moonlight or starlight, this is your home. Life in the moment.
    I cannot imagine a more perfect day.
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  • Journey Through The Clouds to Jasper

    8. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The overnight stop at the small town of Kamloops was brilliantly organised, bearing in mind approximately 500 people from the Rocky Mountaineer had to be accommodated with the minimum of trouble. Before disembarking you are given an envelope stating your hotel, coach and room number. You can walk straight to your room and the luggage will have been delivered! This morning we walked out of the room leaving the luggage to be collected and taken to our stop in Jasper. Every detail has been carefully thought out. Kamloops was originally an indigenous settlement for thousands of years. In the mid 1800s, a group of some 150 men who came to be known as the Overlanders set out from Winnipeg in Manitoba to find an overland route across the mountains to join the gold rush. One wife refused to let her husband go alone. Mrs Schubert and their three children joined the group and over the next few months endured untold hardships to reach the promised land. For the final month they existed on rosehips and potatoes and when Mrs Schubert reached Kamloops she informed her husband that they were going no further! The next day she gave birth to a baby daughter they named Rose, after the berries that had kept them alive. The Schuberts were the first white family to settle in Kamloops, the name originating from a First Nation word “Tk’emlups” meaning “meeting of the waters”.
    Life as we know it resumed at 8am this morning, when the Rocky Mountaineer set off on the second leg of our journey. The train left promptly in brilliant sunshine and we made our way out of Kamloops to the northeast still following the Thompson River. The river is a different beast today, now still as a millpond, so calm as to be a mirror lake reflecting the trees along the waters edge. The valley floor is again wide and fertile and isolated farms and settlements are nestled in beautiful surroundings. We slow for a freight train to pass, breakfast is served and the champagne appears. It’s pretty idyllic. Gradually the train starts to climb, the landscape closes in, changes and the forest reappears.
    Lunch is served and not long afterwards out of nowhere we come across the Pyramid Falls. I will post you a video. It is so beautiful. The Rockies are looming ever closer. The mixed temperate forest is slowly changing to predominantly pine and firs with wild creeks tumbling their way through. You can almost feel the atmosphere changing, mind you, it could be something to do with the margarita that has yet again appeared at my elbow!!
    The train picks up speed as it travels through the Rocky Mountain Trench created by tectonic plate movement hundreds of thousands of years ago. The trench runs north to south from the Yukon to Montana splitting the mountain groups in two leaving the Rocky Mountains the higher. Mount Robson is the highest peak in Canada at 12,972 ft and we had a fabulous unimpeded view of it today against a clear blue sky, which is apparently unusual. We were lucky and it was such an impressive sight.
    As Jasper becomes ever closer the higher the mountains loom above us. Moose Lake appears on our right, perfectly tranquil and turquoise in colour. This is in fact the headwaters of the Fraser River that we followed for so long. The train continues to climb towards the Yellowhead Pass, which is one of the lowest of the Rocky Mountain passes, hence making it the obvious spot to construct the original transcontinental railway. The Yellowhead Pass also marks the boundary between British Columbia and Alberta and is the drainage continental divide. Eastern rivers flow to the Atlantic Ocean via Hudson Bay and the West to the Pacific Ocean. Yellowhead Lake rolls into view framed by Mt Fitzwilliam and we are coming to the end of our journey. The whole carriage had been looking for wildlife the entire trip, with little luck; the odd bald eagle, the back end of a mountain sheep and possibly half an ear of a maybe moose! We were within 10 minutes of our destination when the cry went up ‘Moose’ and sure enough there he was standing
    in some swampy ground by the track. We’d hardly recovered from this when ‘Elk’ was the cry and on the other side of the track stood a young elk and would you believe round the next bend was a juvenile black bear who beat a hasty retreat when he heard the train. We were amazed, but just to top it all, in a short distance, a large black bear got up from some undergrowth by the track at our approach and slowly ambled across the adjoining road.
    Well, who’d have thought it?! It completed a fabulous train journey, which we have thoroughly enjoyed. The scenery is sublime. You are off the beaten track and this is country that you cannot drive. The attention to detail and organisation by the Rocky Mountaineer is first class. I have come to conclusion that government departments could learn a great deal from them!
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  • The Rocky Mountaineer Day 1

    7. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    It was a quiet day yesterday, as we gathered ourselves for the next stage of our journey.
    We were up this morning as dawn broke and the sun came up over the mountains framing the harbour. It was a fitting final sight of the beautiful city of Vancouver. Queen Elizabeth had docked overnight at the cruise ship terminal and we paused to look at her as we passed on our way to meet our transportation to the Rocky Mountaineer Railway Station.
    The train itself is pretty impressive as you will see. Drinks are served in the massive station foyer and after a short welcoming ceremony a piper serenades passengers as they make their way to their carriages. These are state of art as you might imagine and the seating area is ‘upstairs’ giving one an enhanced view of the scenery. The dining car being downstairs. This will be our home for the next two days.
    Initially, like all train journeys, we are gently making our way out of the city, through huge rail yards and the general detritus that seems to make up the outskirts of all such cities. We crossed the wide Fraser River for the first time on something resembling the Forth Bridge and were able to see some of the state of the art bridges that have been built to span the river. The latest is a cable supported version, with heated cabling to prevent ice forming in the winter, costing over 2.5 billion Canadian dollars to construct.
    Once clear of the environs of the city we find ourselves in a wide fertile mixed farming community, with the coastal mountains forever lurking in the background. It is breakfast time and meals are taken in two sittings. Today we are 2nd sitting, but tea/coffee and a delicious lemon and cranberry bread is served with a lemon drizzle to keep us alive! Breakfast is equally delicious and on arriving back at our seats it is cocktail hour! So here I sit, tapping away and keeping an eye on the passing scenery, with a margarita at my elbow. What can I say?
    Gradually the terrain changes as the train climbs. Agriculture disappears and the temperate rainforest, lakes and rivers appear. The mountains close in and we start to hit long tunnels. As the river valley narrows, you can see the churning waters below and the forest clothed sheer slopes rise above us until they fill your vision. The sun glints through the trees and on to the rapidly flowing river. It is majestic and glorious. The narrowest part of the gorge is Hells Gate; named by explorer Simon Fraser when he first encountered the canyon in 1808. He and his team were dangling off the precarious walls on rope ladders made by the indigenous guides and he called this section “…a place where no human should venture, for surely these are the Gates of Hell”. The amount of water forcing its way through here in the spring is greater than that of Niagara, which takes some believing. Our track continues to follow the Fraser and then Thompson Rivers for many miles through fantastic country that slowly becomes more and more arid. The trees are phased out and tussock scrub starts to appear. Suddenly we are in desert country, with bleak rocky crags and mountainsides. This section of British Columbia has the lowest rainfall in Canada.
    We descend to the dining car for a gourmet lunch, dashing out to the open viewing car every now and then to take photos when they can’t be resisted. The viewing car is a bit of a shock to our air- conditioned system. It’s rather like standing in a 90 degree hair dryer!
    If you are lucky you catch sight of bald eagles and their nests perched high above the river and I’m told there are big horned sheep in ‘them there hills’, but haven’t spotted any as yet. The engineering required to make this part of the country habitable is seriously impressive. The bridges, railways and roads require enormous effort to construct and massive hydroelectric power plants are evident everywhere, noticeable by their pylons dotted about the landscape.
    The Thompson River widens quite suddenly into a long narrow glaciated lake. This is Kamloops Lake and anglers come from all round the world to catch the high jumping Kamloops Trout - apparently - whatever floats your boat! The train follows it’s shoreline and we realise we are approaching our stop for the night - Kamloops.
    This is the half way point in our journey and we will resume tomorrow!
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  • Granville Island

    5. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We decided to have a respite today after a hectic first week in Canada. Mind you, I’m not sure my feet would agree this evening! After a housekeeping morning we set off to gently peruse the centre of Vancouver, looking round and doing a little shopping. Our plan was to gently make our way down to the waterfront, (which one I hear you ask and rightly, because there are so many!), in this case the False Creek Waterfront. It was sweltering and those blocks on a map that don’t look far are always so much farther in reality!. A stop off for a cold drink was definitely required. I can report on looking around the ‘Shorts Study’ was in much better shape here in the city. Eventually, after a couple of uncertain moments, we found our way to the the AquaBus jetty at the bottom of Hornby Street. Here you can cross the water to Granville Island on a jaunty little boat to the other side for a very small fee. It took me back a bit, I can tell you, to the days of crossing The Ouse on my way to school as an eleven year old schoolgirl. In those days it was a lot colder and more draughty! It was a delight today with no breeze and a clear blue sky overhead.

    Granville Island is just charming, ‘olde worlde’ and relaxed. The buildings are glorified sheds of one type and another, but it shouts character. We made our way to the seafood section where we had been told we must sample the lobster rolls for lunch, so we did. Well, we shared one - they were enormous, but delicious. There is a small entertainment square where that old favourite the Peruvian Nose Flute was being played with gusto. It’s been a while since I’ve heard that! The covered Public Market is a real draw and rightly so. It’s a while since I’ve seen such produce; meats and fish of all sorts, artisan pickles, breads, soups made with bone broth, cheeses, home made ice cream and anything else you can think of. It was fascinating and we spent a while wandering around wishing we could bring some of it home. Locally brewed beer and wines are on offer and incongruously, the Ocean Concrete factory in the middle of it all, sports artistically decorated silos! There are lots of very small artisan workshops. I spent a while admiring a young lady weaving silk amidst a small studio filled with fabulous pieces. Again I was desperate to find an excuse to buy something, but sense won out. It was no different round the corner at the Pearl workshop. I have never seen such colours and shapes and artistically beautiful jewellery. Surely here, I could find a reason to buy? No, I was in a ‘do I seriously need this’ frame of mind. I know, I’m slipping, but don’t expect it to last! At last we were flagging and decamped to ‘The Bridges’ restaurant by the water for an early supper and a mojito apiece, in honour of Nick and Cheryl who have been this way before with friends. Cheers!
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  • Vancouver Ahoy!

    4. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    As predicted, it was a long travelling day from Tofino to Vancouver. We were booked on the 5.45pm ferry from Nanaimo to Tsawasswen, the ferry terminal south of Vancouver. We had to allow plenty of time because of the engineering works en route that we were caught by on Friday. Monday was a Bank Holiday in Canada (the Canada Day weekend) and so every berth was booked and we couldn’t run the risk of missing our slot. As it happened we were very early and had to kill some time. I decided to make a study of people wearing shorts and did I think anyone passed muster?! I’m sorry to say apart from the youngsters, there was only one gentleman that reached the standard. One lady came close, until one took into account the bright blue and orange flamingo socks that knocked her off her perch. Seriously the shorts look is only for the very few!
    The ferry takes 2 hours to cross the water to the mainland and the Coastal Mountains that are the backdrop to the city loom ever larger, still snow topped. We delivered the hire car to the airport and took a taxi to our hotel arriving at 8.30pm. A long day.
    This morning we had booked a tour of the city to give us a flavour and we’ve had a great day. Vancouver is not quite as glitzy as Toronto, although there are plenty of glass and steel skyscrapers. Personally, I think it is more attractive with its differing districts, lots of parks and greenery, plus the mountain backdrop and water all around. I can see why Captain George Vancouver, a King’s Lynn born lad, claimed the area for Britain in 1792, having found the superb natural harbour. He named it Burrard after one of his companions and it was only later that the city was renamed after Captain Vancouver himself. There is a statue of him outside City Hall in North Vancouver, as there is also one on the Purfleet Quay, outside the King’s Lynn Custom House. We had a comprehensive look around, through the harbour and waterfronts, the old Gastown and saw the old steam clock strike the hour! There is a spectacular new Public Library built out of red sandstone to resemble the Coliseum in Rome. It is quite a sight and apparently has a very beautiful garden on the roof! We had a good look at Stanley Park, a promontory surrounded on three sides by water. It is four square kilometres and named after an early governor; a semi-wild wilderness in the middle of the city, with an aquarium, lost lagoon, botanic gardens and three beaches. It is a fabulous open public space for the city. We moved on to walk the Capilano Suspension Bridge. Set over a gorge and built entirely of wood and now steel cables this was the brainchild of a logger who needed access to the other side of the gorge and so devised this rickety bridge. It’s bad enough now, but must have been a nightmare then! We made it over and back and the darned thing jumps around all over the place gleefully helped, of course, by the youngsters. On our return I overheard a Grandma say to her grandson of about 8, ‘Now just stop all that jumping, we’ll be late for the dentist!’ Life goes on and whilst for us it was a once in a lifetime experience, for others it has to fitted in amongst the routine of life. We finished the day on Granville Island, for a quick snapshot and to where we will definitely return.
    To be continued…
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  • Tofino 2

    2. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Tofino is a small charming little town, comprising of multi coloured buildings, once reliant on fishing and logging for employment. It is isolated due to its geographical position and has the laid back vibe associated with water, sports and sand. The fishing and logging have gradually dwindled allowing tourism to creep in and take over. There appear to be plenty of the usual surfing and arty types and some of sights to be seen down the Main Street have to be seen to be believed, but then what is new. We found a wonderful local bakery where everything is baked on the premises and they do a mean cooked breakfast, always the way to most Englishmen’s heart - well mine anyway. Middle Beach Lodge where we are staying is in a beautiful setting amongst the rainforest and on the beach, but has several drawbacks, continental breakfast being one of them from a certain persons point of view!
    Today we decided to explore some of the trails along the Pacific Rim Highway bordering the ocean. We began with Radar Hill, a beautiful viewpoint with one of the Pacific Rim National Parks highest elevations. Having dragged yourself up there (it is quite steep) you are confronted by a spectacular view. This was originally home to a historic radar station during WW2 and now features the Kap’Yong memorial to the Canadian 2nd Battalion who served heroically and died during the Korean War.
    We moved on to stop briefly at the incinerator rock viewpoint along Long Beach. The beach was busy with families and surfers. Canadian schools have now broken for the summer, so it’s bucket and spade time.
    Our next stop was Combers Beach Trail, where you follow a wide path through the Sitka spruce forest before arriving at the most beautiful natural beach. Quiet, lots of driftwood ( be still my beating heart) and the Pacific breaking on to the silver sand. The forest comes right down to the beach and it is a fabulous sight.
    I had planned to walk the Bog Forest boardwalk and we did set off. However we met a couple hotfooting it back with the news that a black bear was lurking in the undergrowth half way round. Ummm, now what? We turned tail and hurried back, not particularly wanting to get on his wrong side. I know, pathetic windy Brits, but we took the safety first option.
    Finally, we took the boardwalk through the rainforest trail. The boardwalk itself is a work of art and I wouldn’t like to think how long it took to construct. It weaves up and down through beautiful moss covered trees, tiny streams, ferns, skunk cabbage, plus lots of foliages I couldn’t name. A small piece of very rare temperate rainforest that ranges throughout the Park, that is now carefully conserved after a huge battle between the loggers and environmentalists. Luckily the right side won in this case. The sun shone through the canopy to illuminate the forest floor and the trailing mosses and lichens that drip off every branch; it is magical.
    I’m tapping away to you watching the ocean from the Lodge common area. We move on tomorrow to Vancouver. It will be another long drive and I may well not get to you until the day after.
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  • Tofino

    1. Juli 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    This weekend is a National Holiday celebrating Canada Day and we have travelled to Tofino situated in the Pacific West Coast Rim National Park for a relaxing couple of days on the coast.
    We drove from Victoria yesterday, knowing it would be a four hour plus journey. It took seven hours! Great Britain is not the only country addicted to traffic lights and road works!! There is only one road into the area and we had been warned there would be a delay due to the ongoing recovery of a section of road affected by wildfires a few weeks ago (there were several!). When we finally got to the section in question it was quite a sight. Huge cranes held aloft what I can only describe as steel mesh curtains secured at the bottom by massive concrete weights, whilst the work force attempt to deal with the dangerously damaged trees that naturally cling to the cliff face before they fall on to the narrow road. It was something to behold and a major engineering undertaking. Once through the obstruction, the road twists and turns, up hill and down dale. Slopes are clothed in temperate forest. There are clear blue lakes and fabulous vistas along the way. Sorry, no photos as we were chasing the clock and dare not stop - perhaps on the return journey.

    It was an early call once more this morning. We had to be at ‘Jamie’s Whaling Station’ at 6.15am. We were taking an early morning boat trip entitled ‘Tofino Bear Cruise’ from the jetty. Dawn had broken and the sun was just coming up as we left. The water was as still as a millpond (thank goodness). This is an area particularly well suited to being viewed from the water. Temperate rainforest grows down to the water’s edge, clothing mountains, islands and islets alike. There are a myriad of small islands off the coast here and in fact all the way up the coast of British Columbia. The sea is blue and the sunlight sparkles off its surface. It is ravishing.

    The wildlife appeared to also be on holiday and sightings were sadly rare, but the scenery made up for it. A pair of Bald Eagles sat on a couple of telegraph poles watching us curiously as we put to sea. We did later see one of them catch a large fish for breakfast -
    stunning sight. The highlight for me was a group of about twenty sea otters feasting on their backs in their inimitable fashion. They are so gorgeous and it was very special to see them in the wild. Finally we did come across a Black Bear foraging on the shoreline of Meares Island. We watched as he industriously turned over the rocks looking for crustaceans. After a while he suddenly seemed aware that we were there and giving a disdainful glance over his shoulder ambled back into the forest. We caught a distant look
    of another later on and apart from shoals of moon jellyfish here to breed in the sheltered waters that was our haul. We disembarked ready for breakfast and by the time we had eaten it felt like it was mid afternoon! Most of you know that we are not fans of the dawn rising, but this one was so worth it, even from me!!
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  • Victoria, Vancouver Island

    28. Juni 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We arrived here on Vancouver Island this morning, after a five hour flight from Toronto, crossing three time zones. We are now eight hours behind the UK. The weather is warm and sunny and we are staying here for two nights. After the hustle and bustle of Toronto, Victoria is quieter and calmer and we have spent a relaxing afternoon wandering its streets around the picturesque harbour.
    Tomorrow we intend to visit the world famous Butchart Gardens, just out of the town and I’ll let you know my thoughts.

    Thursday 29 June
    The Gardens were developed by Jenny and Robert Butchart from 1904 onwards and now cover some 22 hectares. Robert had bought the land to quarry limestone for his cement company and when the rock was worked-out his wife was left with the task of what to do with the remaining hole in the ground!. Robert was by now a wealthy man and the couple were very hospitable, so the idea of creating a family estate of beauty was appealing. They called their evolving home ‘Benvenuto’; Italian for welcome. Jenny set to work to make a garden out of the quarry, initially using a bosun’s chair to plant the crevices in the sheer walls with plants to soften them. Her logic was unassailable, as once the ground below was prepared and planted there would be no possibility of then clothing the limestone walls towering above. So the sunken garden slowly came to life in the style of the time. Huge amounts of soil and compost have been imported over the years and there is an irrigation system to die for. Eat your heart out those of us who are attached to a hose on a regular basis! Since then the Japanese, Rose and Italian gardens have been added and the whole spectacle is truly a sight for sore eyes.
    It has been a beautiful sunny day and the garden is at its very best, the roses in particular.
    Interestingly a great deal of use has been made of block bedding, which we rarely see
    today, but was of course very much the fashion of the time. Water is everywhere and the colour schemes and clever use of plants has to be seen to be believed. Beautiful, mature, trees clothe the site giving welcome shade and there seems to be a microclimate for every genus of plant.
    The whole garden is of course one giant microclimate, being sheltered within its quarry setting, which allows for the more tender plants to be grown. I could wax lyrically for hours, but will include as many photos as I can to give you a flavour.
    The garden is now over 100 years old and attracts a huge number of visitors annually. One of the early invitees was our own Queen Elizabeth, as a young 12 year old, with her parents, the King and Queen.
    The garden remains in family hands and is being lovingly maintained and developed in the Butchart tradition. If you are ever this way be sure to visit.
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  • Niagara Falls

    27. Juni 2023 in Kanada ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    It is a one and half hour drive from Toronto to Niagara and we left early on a tour in order to fit in as much as possible. The weather forecast was not favourable , but as we were to get drenched anyway it scarcely seemed to matter! You pass through the residential and industrial hinterland of Greater Toronto before hitting more green and pleasant lands. As you move closer to Niagara, agriculture comes to the fore. Market garden crops are prevalent, orchards of fruit trees and eventually mile upon mile of vineyards. For those of you who were not aware, the Niagara area has become a huge wine producing region. The soils here are very fertile due to the moraines left behind following glaciation. This part of the country was heavily glaciated some 23,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age. The Wisconsin Ice Sheet covered the area to the tune of several hundred meters thick and when the ice finally retreated huge depressions had been gouged in the bedrock that the meltwaters formed into the Great Lakes. The Niagara river resulted from more glacial meltwater running over the Niagara Escarpment. It was the relentless flow of this water that formed the iconic Niagara Falls and over the last 12,500 years the erosive force of the water has moved the line of the Falls to where it stands today.
    Like many wonders of the world the Falls seem to creep up on you until you suddenly turn a corner and there they are! You are confronted with this immense volume of water cascading over the escarpment and it is truly an awe inspiring moment. The water and the resulting spray dominate wherever you look. The next move is to join the line for the trip on the Maid of the Mists in order to get up close and personal with the wall of water! You are kindly given a rather insubstantial poncho to supposedly protect you from getting wet. I can tell you it doesn’t work! As we set off the American Falls face us. A smaller straight line of water that sits on American soil; spectacular nonetheless. Moving down river we approach the massive horseshoe curve of the larger Canadian Falls. The noise is
    deafening and you are suddenly drenched from all directions, plus the fact that at this point the heavens opened! Visibility is actually very poor and all you can see is this wall of water in front of you. The top and bottom are hidden in the mists and you are certainly aware of the power of nature and how small a human is in comparison. We staggered off the boat wet in places I would not care to mention and spent lunch steaming gently and gradually drying out. For ladies of mature years, this encounter does not leave one looking one’s best for the rest of the day! Thank God I knew no one!!
    The immediate area around the Falls are rather tacky and not to be recommended, but as we moved further down the river bank, the gardens and parkland are indeed beautiful and more complimentary to a force of natural wonder. We stopped at the Table Rock to view closely the rapids approaching the Horseshoe Falls and to watch the water as it boils and cascades it’s way towards its doom. This was the highlight for me. The scene was mesmerising and the power of the water was brought home even more vividly. Swifts flew impossibly close to the maelstrom catching insects and a black and red cardinal sat displaying his plumage on a seemingly precarious branch over the water. The wildlife take it all in their stride. Further down the gorge we stopped to watch a deadly series of whirlpools forming continuously where the fast flowing river turns a corner. All around the flora is lush and green reflecting the humidity that results from the Falls in the shadow of the Niagara escarpment and I’m sure under a blue sky and sunshine it would look even better!
    Our final call was to the picturesque town of Niagara on the Lake. Some serious real estate is on display and lots of small interesting shops the like of which have disappeared in most places. The ice cream parlour was to die for and obviously had to be sampled before the return journey to Toronto. A fascinating long awaited day.
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  • Toronto

    26. Juni 2023 in Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The flight from Heathrow was smooth and trouble free. We arrived in Toronto to a sweltering hot summer day. The journey from Lester Pearson Airport took approximately 40 minutes to our downtown hotel and we learned a lot from our garrulous taxi driver, even if he couldn’t find the Hyatt we were booked into! Having seen no rain at home for some weeks, our first full day in Canada has broken the duck! Today was our only possibility to explore the city of Toronto and so we decided to take the Hop on Hop off bus to achieve our goal. As we have found in the past, they can be a bit hit and miss. This one was more miss than hit, but did the job, albeit in a rather ramshackle manner.
    Toronto was founded by the French, as a trading post, on the shore of Lake Ontario, one of the five Great Lakes that straddle the American and Canadian border. The French were eventually driven out by the British in 1759. Great Britain retained control of British Canada following the loss of America after the Wars of Independence and named this rather parochial settlement Fort York, as it’s capital of Upper Canada. Initially it was predominantly a military garrison and was burned to the ground twice during its first 100 years, once by American raiders and secondly by Irish immigrants who became far too fond of the whisky produced in the ‘Distillery District’ with inevitable results! As a consequence, what you see now, is a flamboyant modern city full of glass and steel skyscrapers. There are pockets of tradition interspersed and particularly as you head up towards Yorkville, one of its prosperous and upper class residential areas, but there is little that dates prior to the Victorian era. It’s most famous piece of architecture is the CN Tower that gracefully tops everything else. Until 2010 it was the worlds tallest freestanding structure and on a good day affords fantastic views in all directions. We gave it a miss as the visibility was so poor. Casa Lama, the mansion on the hill, built by a self made man as a gift for his wife, is a rather bizarre attraction and there is the unusual Bata Shoe museum with a stiletto entrance to its shoe box shape, the attractive Royal Ontario Art Gallery, the Ontario Museum (a great mix of old and new) and the 1890s pink sandstone edifice of the Ontario Legislative Assembly. Theatre-land and culture are strong here and throughout trees and small parks are plentiful. The waterfront has been drastically remodelled, in common with many throughout the world, and gives easy access to Lake Ontario. Ferries ply backwards and forwards to the many small islands off shore. Again, we decided against as the weather had closed in, but I’m sure on a fine day the views back to the city on the lake would be spectacular.
    It is difficult to sum up my feelings in one short day trip. The whole city is an immense building site making getting around difficult and perhaps giving Toronto a more negative vibe that it probably deserves. I suspect in five years time my thoughts would be different and I can see, as Mike and Mary will attest, this is an attractive liveable city.
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