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Kimberley 2023Kimberley 2023
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Kimberley 2023

May - July 2023
"The Wild Wilbers" are travelling to the Kimberley in Western Australia. Time will tell if they make it back home again.
Live location: https://maps.findmespot.com/s/S682 Read more
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  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    11
    Day 9

    Tag along tour

    May 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    What a day!

    Yesterday was an incredible ‘tag along tour’ with Brian Lee, a local guide. We learned about bush tucker and medicine, including the Kakadu plum tree, which has a bark that can be used as an antihistamine. Considering how many mozzie bites Hugo has copped, that could yet be very valuable information…

    The history of Kooljaman and the failed enterprise was sad to hear, and I don’t have high hopes of it coming back. The dream is to start big, though I just don’t see how they will have a revenue stream to support that from day one.

    Anyway, everything was incredibly overgrown compared to our last visit. Really sad to see it in such a state of (almost) disrepair. We did get to look into one of the ‘glamping’ tents, which was spectacular.

    Onward to collecting some sea shells on the beach, finding a very soft bit of sand to demonstrate the excellent ‘bogging’ capabilities of the fully loaded disco, and finally to the creek, which was mostly free of crocodiles, so safe to swim. The boys were in their absolute element here, and didn’t stop all day.

    One highlight was the speed boat ride with ‘Bundy’ - screams of laughter / terror could be heard over the sound of the outboard motor from across the mangrove. We found out afterwards that one of the cornering manoeuvres threw Max overboard - good thing we put his life vest on. He doesn’t seem too traumatised from the experience, and possibly some past ‘donut’ rides/crashes behind another boat prepared him well for this moment.
    Aside from the impromptu swimming lesson, the boys saw a turtle up close, lots of fish and sting rays, and a bull shark. They were pretty chatty when they got back to shore…

    Cooked up a few mud crabs (not sure Hugo liked these…), some mangrove jack (red snapper) and trevally fish for a snack, then headed toward home.

    A much later night than expected meant dinner was in the car, and consisted of a ham sandwich, some crackers (chicken crimpy) and ‘snake’ lollies. The boys couldn’t believe their luck.

    Speaking of snakes, we saw what we think is a black headed python on the road on the way home - scary looking thing about 2m long. Didn’t run it over, but it also showed no fear at all for the car.    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 10

    Day at camp

    May 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Today is much slower, hanging out around the camp, with a bit of school work, exploring the beaches and rock pools, vacuuming, laundry, and preparing for the next leg of our trip. That means heading towards Derby and so, driving properly east for the first time this trip…Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 11

    Willare Roadhouse

    May 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We packed up this morning, after a 4am wake up alarm courtesy of little Centine….

    A short drive back to Roebuck plains roadhouse, then onward, heading east. Both the car and the camper feeling much lighter.

    Not a glamorous stop for the night at a roadhouse, but necessary on account of the children eating the pantry bare. At least it’s a pleasant spot here - lots of green and a pub just across from the tent.

    With a bit of time free, the boys also continued with their pictures and colouring for Mother’s Day    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 12

    Derby

    May 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Derby serves as a restocking point for us, so after the customary 4:30am alarm, we got up and headed in to town.

    Being quite early, everything was still closed, so we had a look at the pier, and read up on Hugo’s school project topic, William Dampier. Turns out, Cygnet Bay is named after him, or rather his boat.

    We visited the Norval gallery, and after a browse, watching some artists at work and a coffee, settled on a beautiful painting by Shirley - we got a photo with the artist too :-)

    Woolworths is the same everywhere, so little point talking about that expedition. It was a feat of Tetris skill to fit everything into the camper!

    The boab prison tree was a quick stop off on the way home - a pouty look with glasses ends up just looking like you’re disinterested, so pay no attention to my face…    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 13

    Fitzroy Crossing and beyond

    May 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We had a weird nights sleep last night, as the picturesque water tank we camped under had over flowed, and rained down aaaall night. It was like camping right next to a waterfall. Tranquil, but makes for more trips to the toilet than normal in the night. Then, Centine decided to sleep until 6:30 - threw us right off!

    A cooked breakfast in one of the fanciest outback cafes we have seen, before we packed everything down, filled every water tank we could, and headed for the outback.

    A relatively short drive later, we stopped at Ellendale rest area - the station with the mine Wiebe first worked at when working in WA. Lots of small friendly birds around. In fact, birds were in abundance all day, including narrowly missing an enormous eagle taking off across the road.

    Stopped at Fitzroy Crossing for lunch and fuel, noting the starkly different vibe either side of the bridge - on the west was the badlands, filled with beaten up cars and infrastructure (the fuel pumps are armoured here), and lots of graffiti. The east, and specifically ’the lodge’ is closer to an African expat camp in feel - a working pub overlooking the bridge rebuilding, beer on tap (Fitzroy Crossing is otherwise a ‘dry’ town, with no alcohol sale permitted at all), and lots of green grass. Turns out, it really is greener on the other side.

    Further onward to arrive at Mimbi caves campsite. Zero reception of any kind here, so this update will be ‘late’.

    Someone has also started standing on her own…

    We will go have a look at the caves themselves tomorrow, but for now we will call it a night, bracing ourselves for a 9 year old in the morning…!    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    1
    Day 14

    A 9 year old, and Mimbi caves

    May 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    And just like that, Hugo turns 9!

    The requested French toast breakfast went down well, before we set off on a tour of Mimbi caves with ‘Ronny’ (just one Ronny here, not two - his joke, not mine)

    The caves are within something of a massive Ampitheatre, which when you walked into it, felt like a completely different world - ancient somehow. A German couple built a rudimentary house and chapel here in the 80s, still standing today. They also had a games room, complete with chess set.

    Shanti and the boys did manage a swim, which Papa and Centine didn’t even begin to contemplate. Water was “very cold”, which by their standards, would put it somewhere around 14 degrees I think.

    Back to camp for some baking - birthday cupcakes with chocolate icing and sprinkles :-). Not quite perfect on the recipe, but still pretty good.

    A shower at the facilities here was appreciated, as we know there won’t be such luxuries again until almost June    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 15

    Sawpit Gorge

    May 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Time to move on again, this time via Halls Creek, which is just as crappy a place as I suspected.
    Made worse by the drinking water tap not working, and nobody taking responsibility (neither the shell station where its located, nor the shire.)

    We were happy to move on quickly - its not a friendly vibe in town. We did manage to pick up some beer though, at only $80 for a box of Carlton Light :-/

    Lunch at Caroline’s pool, which was pleasant enough but not amazing, before pushing on to sawpit gorge.
    A rough track down to the water, but the car and trailer handled it easily. Getting out could be the difficult bit, with deep pits to lose a wheel in. Fingers crossed…

    A picturesque spot, and all to ourselves for the two nights we’ve stayed here. We tried our hand at fishing and pulled up a whole heap of little brim and cod - I think our gear is a bit light weight to catch anything of eating size though.

    The boys are reminiscent of a book I knew as a child - “ The River Boys”. Lots of building things, catching fish, swimming, building “dams”, jumping off trees and rocks and full of imagination. Max is in awe of his big brother, which is very sweet.

    The days are long and full - Centine is down by 6pm, the boys about the same. Hugo, being 9 and thus very mature now stays up to read, or comes out to join in an evening cup of tea, but we are generally all asleep by 7:30.

    On our second night here we lay awake listening to a pack of wild dingos - hard to tell how many, but definitely more than 4. A little unnerving, and reason enough for us to pack down and move on this morning…    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 17

    Time to move on

    May 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A speedy pack down on account of that dingo pack, and one super macho display by the Disco pulling the Opus back up the steep and rutted out river bank (made it look easy, much to the disappointment of the onlookers) and we were back on the road again, back to Halls Creek.

    Less scary this time, presumably on account of the bottle shop being closed, and so less people hanging around. We learned from a ranger that the black market trade for alcohol is super strong in Halls Creek, with full strength beer (emu export) fetching $200 a carton - people imported beer ‘full time’, as they made a living that way. Madness, and exploitative of a community already not well off.

    The rest of the day was fairly dry to be honest - a big drive in to Purnululu National Park, with lots of water crossings, rocky ranges, and windy roads. Pretty, but with a very heavy trailer and car, exhausting. We almost lost a number plate too, but we’re alerted in time. It might ride the rest of the trip up in the cabin.

    Max has a loose tooth - very exciting! Thankfully the toothfairy has plenty of laundry coins ready to go this time…

    The trailer has developed a weird habit of locking its brakes on too, even when not turned up that high on the controller. First discovered in halls creek, right next to a small and very nervous looking man getting out of his hired car. The sudden super loud skidding of the wheel not more than 3m away, and accompanying dust cloud caused him to jump so high I couldn’t help but laugh. He must have laid an egg in shock, haha.    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    Day 18

    The Bungle Bungles

    May 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We are now at the Bungle Bungles, or Purnululu National Park, and without mobile coverage for a few more days. This will be a few days worth of update by the time we hit upload…

    This morning, after a wickedly cold night, we had a warming breakfast of porridge, before setting off for the southern end of the park.

    The view of the world famous beehive domes as we approached was spectacular and photos really can’t do the scale and beauty of them justice. After a drive resembling the world rally championships to get there before Centine fell asleep, we set off for cathedral gorge, which unlike the domes wasn’t quite the oasis instagram and other media might have you believe. The air was thick with the smell of rotting cane toads, the pool was a sickly green colour, and so our initial amazement to have the place to ourselves was soon replaced with an understanding as to why :-).

    We moved on quickly, to a lookout over the area, which is really quite beautiful. The boys were brilliant in the walk, and Centine only a little grumpy by the end of the 2hr expedition. A few muesli bars, fruit, some lamington and some warm milk for one, and everyone was happy again.

    Max lost his first tooth today - a beautiful moment with him losing it to a piece of carrot - “Whoa! My tooth fell out!”. The tooth has been carefully packaged in a zip lock bag (so the tooth fairy can find it more easily) and Max is now fast asleep, dreaming of all the toy cars and lollies he will buy with the treasure that surely awaits him in the morning…    Read more

  • TravelerKimberley 2023
    1
    Day 19

    More Bungles

    May 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    We visited the northern end of the park, which was a stark contrast to the south. No ‘domes’ to speak of, nor any cane toads, instead, towering rock overhead, to make us feel very very small.
    Echidna chasm was interesting, in that we needed to be there right on 11:30 or so, as only then would the sun be in the right spot. Against all odds we made it, and it really was something very special. Very rich red and orange light, along narrow pathways for an eerie effect. As always, the photos don’t do it justice.

    The walk in and out was pretty too, through a gorge filled with palm trees. An unexpected tree here, given the harsh climate just outside the rocks, but they are flourishing in the gorges.

    We finally made it to the visitor centre, and indulged in an ice cream - very well received :) Not only that, but Max happily spent $3 of the $5 the tooth fairy gave him on a lolly bag. Of course, it didn’t last long…

    The next day we headed back that way, this time to do the mini palms gorge walk. This one was a bit tougher - walking along a rocky river bed, then climbing over, under and between huge rocks. A nice view from the top, before heading back the way we came in. Centine refused to nap, so she was particularly ratty by the end. Max tried his valiant best, but was also running out of steam quickly - tripping over his own feet like a puppy. Luckily, some chicken crimpy biscuits awaited us at the car, together with a few other snacks and beers. We all recovered quickly :-)

    Back at camp, and a Kite nest above us has some noisy inhabitants. I don’t have the best lens to photograph sadly (this is already a heavy camera) but you get the idea I think…

    One last day here tomorrow, before packing down and heading back into civilisation, including mobile coverage (a few updates have banked up here) and cafes where other people cook for you. Luxury!    Read more

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