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Going home
  • Troopy on Tour
  • Johanna Buss
mar. – dez. 2019

Going home

An epic journey from Australia to Germany by car Leia mais
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  • Going home
    Family at the river
    GraveyardFamily in the canyon

    Kazakhstan random facts

    6 de agosto de 2019, Cazaquistão ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    In line with our previous country wrap ups here are our random facts about Kazakhstan:

    First of all: People are extreme friendly and welcoming. Some experiences we had:
    -> Right after the border we stopped at a river. We hadn’t even parked yet and a very excited man waved at us to stop. We met his whole family and got invited to a barbecue.
    -> People frequently waved at us friendly on the road, talked to us from their car and wished us best of luck on our journey.
    -> I was looking for a part for the car. The Toyota dealer in Astana didn’t have it but one of the staff asked for my phone number. An hour later I was contacted by someone in Almaty who could organise the part. Three days later the same guy delivered said part to our hotel and even only charged a reduced price!!
    -> We spent our last night in Kazakhstan in a beautiful canyon on the way to the Kyrgis border. In the evening a family of four parked next to us to have a picknick. They not only walked over to us to say hello, they also brought bread and apples and invited us to sit with them!
    => If only everybody was as welcoming towards foreigners as the people here are (yes, I’m also looking at you Germany. Including myself)

    Other things we noticed:

    Horse meat is a national dish.

    We saw a few graveyards next to the road. They're clearly depicting the Muslim heritage of this country with many graves looking like tiny mosques or at least carrying the moon symbol on top.

    There are a lot of trucks with German signage around.

    We met a lot of people that spoke great English and some even spoke German.

    Watermelon seems to be the national fruit. It was sold along the road almost everywhere.

    Around Almaty there are a few 3000m high mountains that can be climbed fairly easily.

    And last but not least: lots of supermarkets sell German products! Flour, pasta you name it.

    P.s.: nature especially in the South is much more beautiful than we expected!    Leia mais

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  • Going home

    Border crossing Kazakhstan to Kyrgistan

    7 de agosto de 2019, Cazaquistão ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Wow. What a smooth border crossing.
    Tom and I decided yesterday to spend the afternoon at the beginning of the Charyn canyon instead of crossing the border in the heat. We simply loved the place at the river, that felt like a little oasis. And maybe, just maybe, we hadn't been ready to leave Kazakhstan just yet.
    But this morning, it is time to go. We pack up, drive for another 1.5hrs and are actually quite surprised when the border post in the Kargara valley shows up. After Kegen, there were no signs or stalls or gas stations at all, so the post feels a bit sudden. We're here by approx. 10.30am. During the summer months (May-October), the border is open ever day from 8-18 o'clock. There is only one car in front of us and everything happens rather quickly.
    1. Our passports and the car registration are checked.
    2. We're allowed in and proceed to the customs control.
    3. The guards send me to the passport officer, he stamps me out of Kazakhstan and then I'm immediately pointed through to the Kyrgis passport office. No chance to return to the car to help Tom. Within 10min I'm done and am waiting in Kyrgistan for Tom and Hans to join me.
    4. The Kazakh officers play some jokes on Tom (like "fishing rods are not allowed here"), but they're friendly and let Tom and Hans pass quickly. Tom's passport is checked again and he, too, is proceeding to our new destination.
    5. The Kyrgiz side is no problem either, and within another 10min, I rejoin Tom in the car and off we go.
    As I mentioned earlier: super smooth and easy. The only problem is: no ATM, nor car insurance seller, nor SIM card provider on either side of the border. And the next two villages don't look like they'd provide those services either. Hence we simply postpone all of it and drive to Jyrgalan, our first stop. As everything moved so quickly, we arrive at lunch time and have enough time to go on a mountain bike tour in this fabulous scenery. The steep ascend is (luckily) interrupted by an invitation to join a family party for a few snacks and horse milk (kyzmyz). What a lovely bunch of people. Afterwards we continue our way up, pushing our bikes through steep mountain sides, cursing ourselves for having brought them up here. But once we finally get the chance to ride down, the strenuous part is all forgotten.
    First impression of Kyrgistan: amazing landscapes, super friendly people and lots of signage guiding tourists. We can't wait to explore more of this country (and we already have the impression so can't lots of other tourists 😉).    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    Who's the donkey?
    A gravestoneTraditional weaving2The cradleFresh baked breadSignage

    Random observations in Kyrgyzstan

    16 de agosto de 2019, Quirguistão ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Kyrgyzstan's stunning landscape won our hearts instantly. Here is a few other thing we (managed to) notice:

    There is lots of signage guiding tourists. Either to destinations or even along hiking trails. Yurt lodges often have their own signs in the villages as well. Don't count on it a 100% but it's a start!

    Horse milk tastes... Different. It's a bit like buttermilk but much nuttier in a way. Tom was brave enough to drink the whole cup, I stopped after about half.

    We saw heaps of bee hives, often stationed in old trucks. Maybe they can be moved more easily this way? It looked beautiful!

    Most graves are featuring a gravestone with the portrait of the dead. Either engraved in the stone or sometimes even a framed picture of the deceased.

    Bread (mostly white and round shaped) seems to be super popular. At the markets we went to, loaves were sold super fresh and still warm. The smell lingered over the markets and sometimes still in our car.

    People are super friendly, again! Children are waving at us on the streets and adults cheerfully nod their heads or wave back, too.

    However, probably due to the high number of tourists, some people (especially the younger ones) seem to be used to getting gifts, candy or chocolate. Even though we're usually happy to introduce people to Hans and his interior, we became a bit wary as it resulted in lots of "can I have this, can I have that"s. We don't have many spare things and the way we felt like we were expected to give didn't seem right. Don't get me wrong, we're happy to share but not being demanded to do so. I guess this will always be a difficult topic within tourism and I'm still trying to find an answer to it.

    Since we're talking about tourism, we saw and met many hikers doing multi-day treks and also a high number of cyclists on very long journeys. An Austrian couple had been cycling for 13 months (they started in Austria) and are planning to continue for another year to reach New Zealand (look them up on saddlestories.at). Hats off, especially when it comes to those many mountain passes!

    Lots of work is still done with horses. Tending to cattle, working on fields etc. Not many motorcycles to be seen (these were used a lot for guarding livestock in Mongolia).

    Kyrgyzstan is the first country where we've seen lots of donkeys around. Carrying goods and or people as well as pulling carts, they seem to be a valuable work animal.

    Kyrgyzstan is home to people from many different backgrounds. The majority is Muslim and the religion is clearly present, especially the farther South you go.

    Buzzling bazaars are the sign of the ancient silk road heritage, crisscrossing around the country. Now fairly modern, but still beautiful. Original handicraftsmen are still carrying out the work on site and generally welcome curious spectators.

    At the Osh bazaar we came across a rather odd baby cradle made out of wood. It had hole at the bottom and we wondered what it was for. Our slight idea was confirmed by a little boy eager to explain: the hole is filled in with a plastic bucket and then there are two attachments. One for boys that looks like a pipe and one for girls that looks like a rather unpleasant straw. Tough life starts early!

    The traditional white and black Kyrgyz felt hat is omnipresent. It comes in different sizes. Is it an age thing? The older you get, the bigger the hat? Or is it about status?

    The villages in the lush green valleys amidst the dry mountains were so quaint and beautiful! Many a times they're cut off from anything else during winter due to the snow, hence preparations were in full swing. Piles of hay were stocked up on the houses and huts, the crop was brought in and sold or prepared to feed hungry mouths in harsher times. What looked beautiful and appealing to us must be a tough life, where knowledge, organization and helping each other out must be key to everything.

    There are so. many. children!    Leia mais

  • Going home
    Like in 1001 nights...With the German speaking police inspectorWeaving

    Osh Tourism Festival

    17 de agosto de 2019, Quirguistão ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    When we arrived in Osh two days ago, we had every intention to simply get the car in good shape, stock up and straight away leave for the Pamir Highway again.
    Well, as usual, plans change. We staid at Sunny hostel (where we were allowed to only use facilities and sleep in the car in the carpark) and I saw a flyer for the Osh tourism festival immediately. A chance to see local culture and customs up close couldn't be missed.
    So Tom, I and the Kudliks (who had caught up with us at this stage) decided to stay for a few more days.
    And we weren't disappointed. After another day of getting things organised, we meet back at the hostel ("Visit Osh" for the last night in the city as part of the festival organisers had prebooked "Sunny") around 5pm and walk towards the festival ground. Police cars blocking the road and a few more scattered people than usual are the first sign of reaching the event.
    Amazingly, we've made it just in time: the silk road caravan, consisting of a few horsemen, a camel, two yaks and different groups displaying the various ethnicities of the region, is passing right in front of us. Music, smiles and waves and lots of pictures follow.
    Once the caravan and we reach the actual festival site, we get to watch crafts, performances and even a fashion show - whose stars were the grandmas displaying gorgeous, ethnic dresses and funny smirks. However, the real attraction seems to be, well, us. Foreigners. The tourists visiting Osh. We're being interviewed, photos are taken, videos shot. We hardly walk another two metres before someone else is excited to practice their English and in some cases their German with us. Suddenly, we're on the other side of the fence. We talk to locals, the volunteers at the festival (Osh's youth), the police commander and the Kudliks even get to meet the mayor. It's interesting to see how important tourism appears to be for this region and to which extent everyone wants to make us feel welcome.
    It culminates in two girls quickly approaching me in order to gift us some honey. Just like that. How sweet!
    All in all, I'd say the festival was not only a display of regional costumes and customs, but of the heartfelt hospitality that runs through the local people' veins. Definitely worth staying for a little longer in the city.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    He definitely knows how to strike a pose
    The bullsNot impressed by having his picture takenLocal saddlesMaking friends1Sheep have a funny "tail" here. It's apparently a sign of quality

    Sunday animal market

    18 de agosto de 2019, Quirguistão ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    About 25km from Osh towards the East, close to a small village, a flat ground turns into a lively livestock marketplace every Sunday morning. Hundreds of sheep, goats, cattle and horses exchange their owners here. As it is a part of the local culture, we definitely wanted to go to have a look.
    Hence we all get up early and jump into a small cab, arranged by the owner of our stay. The initial confusion about where we want to go and the distance to the place is quickly overcome and all six of us find space in Ella's tiny car. Our driver is a 40year old women with a liking for loud Russian pop music. It seems like she is quite fond of the lot in her cab as shortly after we leave the city, she offers to guide us through the market and then take us back again. Another example of just how friendly the people are. And of course an offer we can't decline.
    Having Ella with us works out to be a treat. She makes sure we stay safe and together and translates whenever needed in the busy aisles of the market.
    Exchanging livestock is definitely men's business. Hands are held and strongly shaken until the right price has been negotiated. Sometimes up to six parties are involved. While this is fun to watch, sadly the conditions for the animals look quite harsh. It's not unusual for sheep and goats to be put into a trunk for example and not all the owners have the patience to kindly ask their livestock to move ahead. I guess my sweet whispers and gently pets were mostly laughed about. Maybe that's one of the reasons for there being so few women around? I'd still like to believe that setting a good example might help somehow...
    After a good hour of people and animal watching, we make our way back, head filled with another lot of busy citylife impressions before we take off to the mountains.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    Kyrgyz border
    NomanslandThe passTadjik borderIn TadjikistanThe border fence

    Border crossing Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan

    21 de agosto de 2019, Tajiquistão ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Aaand another smooth one. Today we crossed the border from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan at Sary-Tash.
    This border is positioned along the Pamir Highway, the second highest road in the world. The drive from Osh to Sary-Tash was already pretty spectacular. Coming down the Taldik Ashuu (a pass at 3615m) the horizon is lined by one snowcapped peak after the other. Many of them are as high as 5000m+ and that's what we'll drive through!
    So today we reach the Kyrgyz border at 2pm after having driven through probably the only valley that doesn't feature a snowcapped peak in the background. It only takes 10minutes to have our passports and Hans checked. The border officers seem to expect that you know the procedures by now as there is little guidance provided. However, it's first driver and car papers, as well as the customs check (in the first building that even features a bed. Smart feature for a border that's open 24/7) and then the passport control right before the exit. Very straight forward.
    Then the real challenge starts: the Tajik border is stationed just behind another pass, this time 4215m high. Hans has never driven at this altitude! We've been warned about the road condition, too, but honestly -while there are bad stretches- this is nothing compared to some of the roads we drove on in Mongolia. All in all, nomansland is sort of unspectacular. The only thing worth mentioning is probably the homestay just in front of the pass. I didn't think you were allowed to stay in this territory, but apparently it offered opportunity to this local family. The three kids try to stop us, but as one of them is pointing at us with a serious looking toy rifle, we don't really feel like stopping. Not the right way to make someone feel welcome I guess...
    Anyhow, the pass is right in front of us. We start at 3900m so it's not too much altitude to be climbed by getting up the switchbacks. And Hans performs great (even though we do need the first gear for some stretches).
    Just after the highest point is reached, we see the Tajik border, no car in front of us but some coming from the other side. We've heard and read different stories about this one, from corrupt officers to swift procedures so we're keenly waiting to see for ourselves. On entry, we're asked to wait in the car until the other party going towards the Kyrgyz side has been processed. Then we walk in the little hut to have our passports and visa checked (Tajikistan has a very easy evisa program but make sure to apply with enough time in advance as processing can take anything from 2-14days). The officer once again isn't impressed by our car registration (just a plain A4 paper), but as it has all the necessary information proceeds anyway. There is no electronic device here, apart from his phone that's playing some sort of Russian hip-hop. All the data is only handwritten into a notebook. In a world so used to having everything registered by a computer, this feels a bit odd, but it's also fairly fast, so no complains.
    While he's writing, we explain our route on the world map in the back to the other officers. Heads are nodded in an understanding and not as surprised manner as expected. So many overlanders must pass through here...
    Afterwards the car is checked quickly by the same officer (who is just wearing slippers that are at least two sizes too small. No wonder he'd rather get back in the warmth than ask us to open everything). All good here as well and we proceed to the customs Check-Point. Later on we learn that we apparently skipped the narcotics officer, but what do we know, right? At customs there is quite a queue as Mongol rally teams are lining up from the other side. Tom and the officer need a little while to make each other understand that this is where Tom will get the temporary import document but has to pay $25 for it, but it all works out in the end. Note that this officer will check passports and visa again, so simply take all of your documents.
    Before we're allowed to move on, there is one more hut to visit, where we need to pay a disinfection fee of 10€. Not sure if this is a valid thing, but the officer assured us that it'll be the last time we'll be asked for money and they filled in official looking papers (without actually disinfecting anything though), so we are happy enough to pay and be on our way.
    In total, it took us 2hrs, with 1h being driving through nomansland. Friendly officers, no one trying to take anything from us and no funny questions asked. Welcome to Tajikistan!    Leia mais

  • Going home
    This is Afghanistan!
    The river is the borderSign of a sacred site

    Wakhan valley impressions

    25 de agosto de 2019, Tajiquistão ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    What a wonderful place on Earth! Very close to the Afghan border but everything seems peaceful and safe. Feeling so special to be able to experience this.

  • Going home
    Can you spot the cyclist?Fresh foodIbex horns marking sacred siteDrying apricotsRiver of life

    Random observations in Tajikistan

    27 de agosto de 2019, Tajiquistão ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    As we passed our 10days in this beautiful country only in the GBAO district, driving along the Pamir Highway and exploring the Wakhan and Bartang valley, these observations can't really speak for the whole country, I guess. But they're our impressions of it, so I thought we'd share them anyways.

    Street posts are made from stone. Do not hit them!

    Only 7% of the country are below 1000m of altitude.

    We saw more tourists on the Pamir Highway than locals. Tourists have different means of transportation. Some have their own car like us, some have hired a car, some are travelling as part of a tour, some hitchhike, some are on motorbikes, some are on bicycles and some walk.

    A big shuffle seems to be THE must-have accessoir for Tajik men.

    We hardly saw any wildlife in the Bartang valley. The farther up you go the fewer livestock (and people) there is. But flowers, insects and beautiful butterflies can be found everywhere, even in the remotest corner.

    Tajik people (at least the ones we met) are super friendly. I loved the moment when we drove past and confusion was swept off the faces and replaced by a big smile that brightened up the whole person and seemed to charge the whole surrounding with positivity. Melted my heart.

    Soccer and volleyball seem to be the most popular sports. We drove past a lot of fields, especially in the Wakhan valley.

    Hitchhiking is very common to get from A to B. If you can't find someone to take you, you walk.

    At least during harvest season, you can buy food, both in the Wakhan and the Bartang valley. No need to stock up too much beforehand. Your money is better spent here!

    There are two Afghan markets, one in Ishkashim and one in Khorog, that foreigners can go to without obtaining a visa for Afghanistan. We didn't make it as they only happen once a week, but it must be an experience.

    We were very impressed by people's English levels, once again! However, the guy in the Khorog tourist office mentioned, it's mostly the people in the GBAO, not so much other parts of Tajikistan, that speak such good English. He might have been biased though.

    Tajikistan is a windy country. It usually picks up in the late mornings and gets stronger throughout the day. Then it calms down at night and very often in the mornings you can enjoy a few quiet ad warm hours - if you get up early enough.

    Many streets in the GBAO district are closed during winter (sep-march). Only the M41 (the main Pamir Highway) stays open all year as it is the main trade route. The villages in the other valleys need to prepare to be almost self-sufficient, there usually is a community Hall to store food supplies.

    It's the rivers that enable life in the valleys. Roads lead along them and they turn the surroundings green, providing for the local communities. We've seen many canals leading to the fields (and we often had to cross them, too).

    Ibex horns are used to mark sacred sites and sometimes to protect one's home from evil spirits. Sadly, we haven't seen a single alive one.

    Apricots are dried on any warm and fairly even surface that can be found. Roofs, stones, carpets. In winter they're soaked in water, flour and sometimes sugar is added and this way they help to fight the hunger.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    Met the local english teacher and her students
    Vegetables from the local gardenVegtables turned into yummy risotto!Payed back a bit of our charma debt by taking a hiker for a few kms

    Yet another act of kindness

    27 de agosto de 2019, Tajiquistão ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    So, usually my daily routine after a day of driving on demanding terrain is to get underneath the car and check that everything is still in place and all the bolts are tightened. Now, while the road through the Wakhan valley in the mountains of Tajikistan definitely falls into that category, yesterday I forgot to follow my routine. Of course Murphy was waiting around the next corner to enforce his dreaded law! The next corner being the even more remote Bartang valley.
    About 80km into the 280km drive through the valley we noticed a very strange sound coming from underneath the car. A quick inspection revealed that the bolt holding the rear left shock absorber in place had developed its own plans on how to continue its journey and hence had left us at some time on the road. Leaving the absorber awkwardly hanging down on the gravel.
    Of course no man or bolt gets left behind, so I quickly strapped the shock absorber in place to turn around and unsuccessfully try to find the missing parts.
    So, what now? Well don’t you worry. After we stopped to take another look on foot in the little town we were in at the time, we were instantly greeted by the villagers (we had passed them three times by now and they probably thought us rather odd. But they still approached us smilingly). A bit of chit chat and I explained that there’s a problem with the car. One look and 2 min later there were four guys inspecting the hanging shock absorber. What followed is still hard to comprehend. Not only did one of the guys have the right bolt, washer AND bushing to fix the suspension but also nobody would accept any compensation whatsoever. Instead they smiled, waved and wished us good luck while walking away.
    But here comes the best part. While I was busy with the guys and the car, Jo had made friends with Pari, one of the women living in the village. She owns a guesthouse and is the local English teacher. Pari not only helped to translate few bits and pieces, but she also brought us a basket full of apricots, peaches, onions and a huge pumpkin as a parting gift.

    People are just amazing!! Thanks Tajikistan!    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    Karakul village
    Looking back at Karakul lakeWaiting in lineCar carpet - quite literallyFellow travellers

    Border crossing Tajikistan - Kyrgyzstan

    30 de agosto de 2019, Quirguistão ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We spent way too little time in beautiful Tajikistan. But since we're running on a schedule, it couldn't be helped. At least we've seen the Wakhan and the Bartang valley and who knows, we might return!
    But for now our way leads us back to Osh. As the border a little further West is closed for foreigners unfortunately (meaning only Tajik and Kyrgyz people can cross), we are driving over the same pass, same border as a mere 10days ago. The way up to the Tajik side feels muuch longer, but Hans makes it and the procedures are as simple and straight forward as during the first time. We even manage to skip the narcotics officer again (this time he waves us past). Going down the pass in nomansland, we meet Dodiemo85 (follow them on Instagram). We had been following each other on social media as these two roam around in Central Asia as well, but we had no idea how close we were. Unfortunately, nomansland going in opposite directions is not the best place to meet, so we only have a brief chat. Would be lovely to meet them again though!
    Anyhow, Hans is getting low on fuel and we're keen on finishing this border business. Well, surprise at the Kyrgyz side: their internet is down and no passports can be processed. Now we know why the Tajiks still write everything by hand! Nothing can be done about it so we chat to fellow travelers for an hour or so. Once the system is up and running again, it takes about 20minutes for our passports to be checked and Hans's paperwork to be completed and we're back in Kyrgyzstan.
    It does feel a bit odd to drive the same road, but in the opposite direction. First time for us on this trip and I keep catching myself looking back to see if the view has changed, if there is more snow on the mountains, if I can glimpse something I haven't before. But then the views in front remind me that you never step in the same river twice. Pay attention to what's coming, it's beautiful!    Leia mais

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  • Going home

    The sound of silence

    31 de agosto de 2019, Quirguistão ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Funny. The last few days, wind and the sound of rushing water were our constant companions. Now, nothing.
    We've left Tajikistan's beautiful rivers behind to return to Kyrgyzstan's stunning mountains (not that Tajikistan had been short of them, but here they are greener and more accessible). A few dozen kms after the border, we take a small path right through the village leading much much farther into the valley. We climb up now dried up grassy hills, drive past a few seemingly abandoned houses, slowly but steadily making our way to today's destination: a small, pristine mountain lake, hidden back here with no civilisation around it.
    We can't quite get down to the shore to park, hence we stay on a little plateau, overlooking the scenery. And then, nothing. No wind, no water, no animals nor insects nor birds. Night sets in and it's quiet. Weird. But beautiful!
    The next day brings visitors, returning wind, horses and cows and of course, insects. We're not alone in the world after all.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    The border
    First glimpseReunitedGood morning

    Border crossing Kyrgyzstan-Uzbekistan

    17 de setembro de 2019, Quirguistão ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This border crossing was a special one. Why? Well, we had just arrived back in Osh at 4.10am this morning! Tom and I had flown back to Germany for a few days to see friends and family and attend two weddings. After a super exciting and special time that really felt like a holiday from our overlanding journey, today was the day to be reunited with Hans again. Quite wonderful.
    We pick up the car at Vlad's garage, get a few last bushings fixed, fill up the tanks (both of them as we're not sure about Diesel in Uzbekistan), get the last few groceries and head for the border.
    We know it's not far out from the city, but yet we're surprised how quickly we reach it. The Kyrgyz side is bustling with market stalls and money exchange booths but before I can suggest to exchange some money, we're already at the front gate. Tom had simply passed the long line of trucks and no one seems to mind. Quite the opposite: once we're through the first gate cars are even asked to move so that we can proceed. Tourists definitely enjoy advantages here. Someone picks up our temporary import document for Hans, our passports are stamped through a side window so the we don't have to queue, a quick look into Hans and off we are towards the Uzbek side.
    Here, we're not separated for the first time and both Tom and I get our passports checked by the (very good looking) guy who processes the paperwork for drivers. Lucky me, the "normal" hall seems to be a beehive! Tom and I are witnessing loud shouting, long queues and general discomfort while waiting for our papers. In the customs area just in front, things are much calmer. Our passports are stamped quickly, Tom takes care of Hans's paperwork and I get the honour to lead through the customs inspection for the first time. The customs officer actually laughs with me as I present the spatula when asked if we carry any weapons. Besides not getting a temporary import document (let's hope we won't need it) and a bit of confusion if we can go or not (we needed to stop for the dogs again, but were quickly released thereafter) a very nice and smooth border crossing. All thanks to us being tourists. Being preferred felt weird but at the same time we were super grateful as the day had already filled out heads with so many thoughts and impressions I'm not sure we would have been able to handle any problems. So thank you, sweet people in line and border officers. Uzbekistan, we're ready for you.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    The factory
    Spinning the threadDyingMarketOur hostThe quails

    First day in Uzbekistan

    18 de setembro de 2019, Usbequistão ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Can you feel at home at several places at once? Or maybe home really IS where the heart is? I had no trouble adapting to the life back home and enjoyed being in my family home a lot. At the same time, moving back into Hans felt familiar and right as well.
    Having underestimated the time it gets dark here, we drove much longer than we usually do after crossing the border yesterday. But the Fergana valley is heavily populated and we needed to find a place to sleep. We reached our destination around 8pm in pitch black, had a quick snack and went to bed.
    Hence, settling in was left to this morning. Still accustomed to a different time zone, we got up around 8am, with the sun shining on our roof and a flock of sheep passing by our campsite next to a small canal. Curious people walk or cycle past, most of them just nodding or waving hello, some asking where we're from but none of them intruding. Just after breakfast, a man and his son walk up, a bit more interested than the others. We converse with hand and feet and a few words in Russian and I gift two pens and a notebook to the little boy. Turns out, we had just met our neighbours, living just 100m down the road. We're invited for tea, but knowing that we need to move on, we decline gently.
    It's time to get Hans organised after all! Thankfully we didn't bring back as many items as we took home, so everything finds its place quickly and Hans's tidyness is restored. Just as we're about to finish our neighbour's wife comes over. She gifts us grapes and dried apricots from the garden and smiles broadly. How I wish I could communicate at least a little bit more... Our heartfelt "spasiba" and "thank you"s must have made their way through despite of the language difficulties though. And so we part ways.
    While we were planning to take the shortest route to Samarkand, we need to get money and a sim card. Coincidentally the next opportunity to do so, presents itself next to a silk factory. Well, we don't want to miss it, especially since we're travelling on the silk road and Uzbekistan is the world's third largest silk producer. The detour is totally worth it. We get money & a simcard, super fresh veggies and fruit at the local market and the tour through the factory is super interesting as well. Every step of the production is handcraft and super impressive. And our Russian speaking guide is doing such a good job that we even understand his explanations (there are English, French and German speaking guides, too, but he was free and eager to show us around).
    To top off our already super exciting and successful day, we're then invited for tea by the owner of the house where we parked Hans. There are only so many times you can say no and so we agree. Quite an interesting household! We're asked to sit down in the entrance area, where we're served a Fanta like drink immediately by one of his daughters or daughter-in-laws. Tiny quails are kept in cages made out of pumpkin skin that hang high just underneath the ceiling. Their chirping could definitely act as an alarm system! During the course of the conversation our host explains he sells them at the Fergana market.
    As we're drinking the Fanta, we're offered kefir as well. Wary of our horsemilk experience, we're reluctant but there is no saying no. The kefir is homemade from milk that the goat in the courtyard is providing. And it is delicious! Pleased that we like it, our host asks us to take the whole jar (made a beautiful sauce for our dumplings at dinner!) and a loaf of bread on top of that. We finish a few cups of tea, talk about this and that (interrupted with frequent glances towards the birds at the ceiling whenever we get lost in translation) and then bid farewell. There is not much of the day left and we want to cover a bit more ground. An hour later, we find our second campspot in Uzbekistan and take a deep breath. We're on the road again. And people are simply wonderfully friendly.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    Locals waving from their car
    The "one-family-house" districtsMuseum city KhivaPlovPainted pomegranate on tilesRoof covered bazaar

    Random Uzbekistan

    18 de setembro de 2019, Usbequistão ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    There are so many wonders and wonderfully surprising things to notice everywhere you go. Uzbekistan was no different. Here are some of the little things we noticed:

    Corn is dried simply by taking off the husks and spreading it flat on the side of the road.

    There are lots of big houses. Some of them are just being built despite many looking empty and deserted. Quite a contrast really.
    There are also many stretches with small houses looking exactly alike. Usually around the bigger towns and cities. Leftovers from the Soviet era? Hard to tell.

    While we read and heard that Uzbekistan is touristy, people looked at us as if we were some sort of alien species in the first town we stopped at in the Fergana valley. Was it my hair? I might have to tame it a bit more as otherwise I think I was dressed appropriately (I had put on a leggings underneath my dress as I knew we were driving into Muslim dominated territory and I didn't want to stand out. Sidenote: not many women wear a headscarf in Uzbekistan after all). The amount of people greeting us from their cars and waving from the side of the streets seem to confirm our theory that tourists are still quite rare in this part of the world.
    The big silk road cities (Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva), however, really were quite touristy. Especially Bukhara and Khiva where big tourist buses throw buckloads of tourist groups all at once at the historic centers. No one to blame here, the sights are super beautiful, impressive and definitely worth visiting. But life as a local must feel weird in these museum parts of town that are raided day in and day out.

    Diesel and petrol are hard to come by. Most cars run on gas, which means big gas cylinders on the roof and even bigger gas stations, obviously marked by big sign posts from the main street. They're built a hundred meters or so away, I reckon not to threaten the traffic.

    Everyone we talked to was fond and proud of plov, the National dish. It's basically spiced fried rice with meat, veggies, fries and raisins, cooked in large pans over the tandoor oven. Unfortunately, we only had quite a poor version of it in Khiva, but I can imagine how good it can taste!

    While water- and honeymelons were in season and plentiful, the real national fruit is pomegranate. The tree is also seen as tree of life and often depicted on paintings, tiles and mosaics. And they were in season, too! Not bad for a country that mostly consists of desert.

    We haven't mentioned it before but since we've entered the Stans there is another thing that stands out: many people have golden teeth. Not just a crown, sometimes as many as six teeth or more covered in shiny metal. Uzbekistan was no different in this regard.

    And last but not least, the bazaars. We very often noticed a roof covered area where people were selling all sorts of groceries, but mainly fruit, veggies and dried fruit. Amazing variety, especially in the nutrient rich Fergana valley.    Leia mais

  • Going home

    Tales of 1001 Arabian nights

    19 de setembro de 2019, Usbequistão ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Have you ever read or watched "Aladdin"? Or put your nose into a big old book titled "1001 nights"?
    If you have, you certainly must have dreamt about big palaces in the desert, oasis and camels, beautiful princesses and princes and a kind Sultan reigning over his land. Or maybe you thought about groups of scarf covered bandits, chasing through the dunes on mighty looking horses, holding their long swords high above their heads?
    Uzbekistan's silk road cities Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva give you a good impression of these dreams in real life. Or at least the buildings do. Huge mosques and medressas (education buildings), minarets and mausoleums greet you around every corner. They're very accessible, some with free entry, some cost a marginal fee, every one of them a monument taking you to a different time. Yet, some of them are still actively used in their old purpose as well.
    I was deeply impressed by all the handcrafted tiles and mosaics adorning the in- as well as the outside of the buildings.
    Taking into account the beauty and uniqueness, of course, you'd barely walk around on your own. But sitting down in a quiet corner, reminiscing all the stories you've heard that are vibrating colorfully in your head, that's something.
    We liked Samarkand's Registan the most, especially during sunset, but go and explore for yourself.
    Just maybe skip the driving yourself part, the desert can get to you after hours and hours of nothing but heat, rocks and sand.    Leia mais

  • Going home
    Carefully piled car load at the border
    Approaching the truck lineNothing but camels before and after the borderOur campspotDesert sunset

    Border crossing Uzbekistan-Kazakhstan

    24 de setembro de 2019, Usbequistão ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We enter another country for the second time. First, it was Russia that we entered twice with the car. Then, we entered Kyrgyzstan three times on this journey (though one doesn't really count as we had left and came back by plane in between).
    Today, we come back to Kazakhstan, this time at the Western side of the country. These countries are so vast, it's hard to grasp!
    At the border, we're allowed to bypass the long line of trucks again. Having arrived at 12.44pm, we cross the Uzbek side quickly and are out a mere 15min later. The young customs officer inspecting Hans clearly would have loved to take Hans for a ride, as he even sat down behind the wheel!
    On the Kazakh side, trucks and cars are waiting alike. No bypassing here as it seems we arrived at lunch time. Oh well, at least we have time to eat something. During the wait, few of our fellow travellers would love to have a conversation. By now, Tom pronounces "I only speak a little bit Russian" in Russian so well that people don't really believe it. After a few tries they understand at last and stop asking further questions, a bit disappointed. Foreigners with a car still cause curious interest all around. And yes, we still need to work on our language skills.
    Then the gate opens and everyone gets waved through, only to line up inside again. As tourists, we're pointed to the side, but still have to get our passports stamped along with everyone else. The queue isn't long. On Tom's turn, the officer enquires about a long piece of paper, that we don't have. In the end, he simply waves us through, upon us asking saying we won't need it. Alright then.
    Afterwards Tom and I are separated as usual as he needs to get the TID for the car. I walk back to Hans, on my way meeting an officer. He speaks no English at all, but I manage to explain that Tom is getting the rest of the paperwork done. I'm allowed to wait by the car, but he doesn't want to do the customs check yet.
    On Tom's return, we're a bit clueless about what's next as no one is around. After a few minutes, Tom walks up to the passport control area for the second time. At the same time my non English speaking officer and another one in formal uniform show up to check Hans. They, too, ask about the paper slip. Turns out, we should have gotten it at the main gate at the entry and it needs to be stamped by passport control and customs! So Tom goes to receive it and get it stamped while I show the official officer around. It's a simple examination and his face lights up when he sees the hoola-hoop (usually people notice the guitar first. I guess this guy likes gymnastics 😊). Tom returns, the slip is checked and we're done. Driving out, we hear the officer shouting "I love you". That's a first!
    All in all it took 2hrs, one of which was spent waiting during the lunch break.
    We're so eager to hit the road (still lots of ground to cover to get to the ferry) that we almost forget to get insurance. It hadn't been obligatory in the last countries we entered, but it is in Kazakhstan! Thank God for the booths, lining up right after the border, reminding us. Since Tom needs to do most of the work related to the car, we decide I go to get it this time. The young guy selling insurances barely speaks English, but is excited enough about me to call his friends over to join him. While he's typing in the details, I'm bombarded with pseudo-German stars (mostly soccer players and somehow Ronaldo and Messi end up in their name game). It gets a bit tricky when they ask about how much money I earned last year. I try to get away with asking how much they make: 1000USD a year. So when they ask for USD 30 for the insurance, I simply agree without checking the price. Noticing it, one guy asks for 35, but that I refuse. I'm not that easily fooled (or so I think). A quick and confusing discussion between the three of them follows, involving my $30 and 4000Tenge (approx $8) being shuffled over the table, but then I'm handed the insurance and we say goodbye.
    Back at the car, I feel a bit cheated still and talk to Tom about it. A second look at the insurance reveals that it only costs the equivalent of $22. While I'm too embarrassed to go back, Tom decides it's about principle and gets back another $5 at the booth. I suppose it's important to make clear that foreigners shouldn't be tricked, but at the same time I'm also painfully aware of the harsh contrasts of the worlds we live in. It's not easy to deal with it on an every day basis. We're not some rich kids on a holiday, but surely it must look like it from another perspective. But instead of being tricked into paying extra, I'd rather buy another bag of fruits and veggies of the next local farmer. One way of supporting the local economy. And I'll keep on thinking about other ways, too. Promise.    Leia mais

  • Going home
    Playing with the dog
    Leaving the portThe cabinRocking the boatArrived

    Taking the ferry across the Caspian Sea

    28 de setembro de 2019, Azerbaijão ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Due to our difficulties to get a Russian transit Visa (processing time and location just didn't work out), we finally decided to cross the Caspian Sea by ferry. It's not very we organised yet, there is no timetable and no clear information about costs etc. but that's part of the experience. We know it leaves from Aktau, so we head to the port there first. Not being able to identify the right building, we ask a woman in a Café for help. She's super friendly and helpful and gets us to call a guy with further information. There is a ferry at 2am, but we need to head the port a little further down South. There, they've built a big new terminal to process the ferries quicker. However, no one is around apart from Tom, a motorcyclist from Tasmania. Turns out we had met in Murghab already. Small world 😊
    With a bit of effort, we find a guy to talk to and he simply tells us to wait. And so the journey begins.
    (Note: this might be a bit too detailed, so I won't be offended if you don't read it!)
    3.30pm we arrive at the new terminal, establish contact and make sure people know we want to take the next ferry to Baku (hardly anyone speaks English)
    We wait for hours that we spend talking and in my case playing with a super cute dog.
    11pm We get waved through the entrance gate, the car is checked quickly and we're surprised that the vodka isn't being taken.
    Next, we are led to a big hall, where we get the ticket for the car. The hall is huge, well signposted and clearly built to process masses. This late at night, with just the three of us in there, it feels a bit like we're the only survivors in a zombie movie. They then send us back out to drive to the ferry. As it's nowhere to be found we head back to the parking where Tom and I sleep in the car. Motorcyclist Tom stays inside.
    3.30am Moto Tom wakes us up (which apparently took a while). We go inside again to our get passenger tickets and car customs paperwork sorted. The ferry has arrived and is unloading at the moment.
    4.45am Time to board the ferry. This time, we're following an officer's car to not get lost again. Our gang of three is joined by another backpacker, but no other cars or trucks in sight.
    5am A welldressed guy checks our paperwork while we have a quick coffee and pack our bags on the loading deck. We're motioned to move forward (still not much English around). Our passports are stamped in one of the rooms on the main deck and then we're allowed to choose our rooms. They all are kept simple, but we manage to find a two passenger cabin with a bunkbed, a couch and even our private toilet&shower. Not too shabby at all!
    6.05am we can't quite believe it, but the ship is leaving! As far as we can tell we're the only passengers. All of us are fairly tired, so we go to sleep. The day passes without any turbulences, we have lunch & dinner, read and watch a few episodes of our current TV series.
    11pm The anchor goes down, we can see the mainland but we're too early to go on shore. We had expected to be on the boat for 20-22hrs, but surely we'll be able to leave earlier?
    2am the ferry moves towards the port
    3.45am we arrived. We are asked to leave the ferry and go to passport control. This time it doesn't happen on board.
    Everything is empty and deserted. Again, no one really tells us what to do but by standing around and waiting somehow someone moves us forward. The guy who held on to our paperwork still has our car registration which causes a bit of confusion at customs. He wants to keep it as he still wants us to pay for the boat. Reluctantly, he joins the Tom's and customs gets sorted.
    5.15am the Toms "just" need to pay for insurance, road tax and the ferry now (the vehicles cost more than we paid in Aktau). While they're gone to the payment office, I wait in the car. One of the older guys working here seems to have grown quite fond of me. He zwickt my cheek, talks to me shortly and then pets my head before heading off. Does this happen to others, too? He's got very kind eyes, a cheeky smile and reminds me a bit of my grandpa....
    5.40am there is a problem with the banking system and we can't pay the road tax. That means waiting for another 1.5-2hrs. Moto Tom is free to go though so we say goodbye
    5.55am Moto Tom comes back. Apparently we're missing a paper slip and can't leave the port just yet. So the boys head to the ferry again and get the Bill of Lading
    6.35am second try. Moto Tom hadn't been asked for the road tax proof, so all of us try to get through. No luck, one paper is still missing. Back to the office building again.
    6.53am next try. We paid a bridge fee (maybe the road tax?) and get through!

    Despite of all of this sounding super tedious, we actually enjoyed the ferry crossing. Pleasently surprised about not having to wait too long for it to leave (people wait for days sometimes), we feel we made the most of it. It only took 1.5 days and saved us hundreds of kms of fast driving (our friends only got a 3day transit Visa for 800kms). And now we're super excited to explore Azerbaijan.    Leia mais

  • Going home
    Pavillons in the restaurantsThe desertMud volcanoes, some of the greatest attractionsBeautifully restored Khan's palace in ShekiDried out riverbed

    Random observations in Azerbaijan

    28 de setembro de 2019, Azerbaijão ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    What can you learn about a country in just two days? Well, not much really. But some things we found noteworthy nonetheless:

    Azerbaijan is the first country on our journey where geese seem to be super popular. It felt like every second house in the mountain villages had some.

    The road from Baku to Gabbala leads through very diverse countryside. While you start at the Caspian Sea and then drive through semideserts, the landscape changes drastically as soon as you reach higher altitude. Lush green forests and vineyards greet here. Furthermore, there are hundreds of beautiful looking restaurants along this stretch, nestled on hilltops or underneath trees, inviting to take a break and enjoy the scenery. (With hardly anyone around, we were, however, wondering how on earth they all survive...).

    Another find, crucial for our travel planning, is the very good cellphone reception all over the country. Something we haven't been used to so far.

    And we were also positively surprised by the first recycling machine we spotted in a supermarket. Yes to waste management!

    Good for our budget: diesel ist finally cheaper than petrol and every gas station has the same price. Is it government regulated? Don't know, but we're leaving all fuelled up.

    As we're looking for nice campspots, we can't help but notice the dried out riverbeds everywhere. It's hard to imagine a full flowing river here, but after all, it's autumn and it might be different in spring with all the snow melting in the mountains? The debris that's lying around suggests that way. We might have to come back and check it out!
    Right now, we head to lakes instead. However, as refreshing water sources seem to be scarce, the ones that exist have been capitalised on: the two lakes we approach have been taken advantage of a hotel with a boom gate denying entry to non-paying guests. What a shame!

    Last but not least, we realize that Russian isn't very popular here anymore. The Azeri language sounds very different and they use yet another alphabet. A strong Turcic influence can be detected. Time to move on from Russian and learn new words!

    We leave, feeling that we haven't explored enough of this country's landscape and culture. But mountains are calling and we need to take advantage of the great weather forecast. Azerbaijan, you deserved more but we tried to make the most of it.    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    2Tara
    "Can I eat this?"My flowers and the lakeI didn't get all of them, but needed to hold them for the pictureCaravanseraiWinter palace

    Jo's perfect Sunday

    29 de setembro de 2019, Azerbaijão ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    What a day! It started with getting up early, a cup of coffee made by Tom and jumping into the nearby lake. Though our campspot on the parking lot of what could pass as an amusement park was far from perfect, at least no one else was around this early and we enjoyed the short swim.
    While heading back to the car, the weather decided to cheer up and I was looking forward to breakfast and researching Georgian festivals (internet reception was quite good). Little did we know that we were in for a surprise: Tom called me to the back of the car as he was cuddling one of the cutest puppies we've met in a while. "Tara" (we named her and were seriously considering taking her along) kept us busy with cuteness overload. She staid around for a few hours, but headed off when it became busier and she had the prospect of getting some fresh fish from the fishermen. So no dog, yet...
    And time for research with no distraction 😉 Tom repaired a few small things around the car and I got all excited about the many opportunities in Georgia. There is a city festival "Tbilisoba" in Tiflis next weekend that I don't want to miss. Tom, having finished the repairs, had found out about a beautiful National Park just after the border and so our plan was fixed: head towards the National Park, spend a few days there and then live in an AirBnB over the weekend to explore Tifllis and the festival. And on top of that we'll attend a cool DJ event working with the symphony orchestra!
    Wow.
    Now time is precious, so we pack up, ready to go. At that moment, yesterday's flower seller returns to his workplace. He had gifted me a lovely bunch and I wanted to say thank you again. So I get some biscuits and a bit of money, but he refused. Instead, I get another flower. Unfortunately, he wouldn't take a picture with me, but he was such a lovely soul, it makes me smile every time I look at the flowers that are now in my keepcup in the cupholder on my door.
    We have time enough to visit one more sight in Azerbaijan so we head to Sheki. A beautiful village, home to a still actively used caravanserai (silk road resting place) and two of the Khan's palaces. Small, but beautifully restored, I love walking through them on our cultural excursion.
    To take care of our hungry bellies we feast on our earlier bought fresh local bread and cheese (sor is a kind of quark and dangerously yummy) and move to our campspot for the night. It's only 10kms from the border along a small creek. Lush green surrounds us. I'm fearing to be sushed away when a man walks quickly right towards us, but no, it's a local fisherman. I mistake his hand movement for wanting to take a picture of the car but am handed 4 small fish instead. Ok... He heads off and I suddenly feel movement. Tom tells me it's probably just muscles working after its death but I'm not convinced. It's moving again! On Tom's suggestion (I am far less experienced with fish), I carry it down to the creek. It's breathing! After a few minutes being held underneath the surface and gullping up the fresh water, the fish actually manages to swim away. What a win!
    The not so lucky ones we'll fry over a campfire tonight (both of us would have preferred if we had been able to rescue all of them). With a glass of wine, we'll toast our short but beautiful trip through Azerbaijan.
    What a day!    Leia mais

  • Going home
    Looking back
    Going throughThe DutchiesFirst glimpse of GeorgiaWine everywhere!

    Azerbaijan to Georgia in the Northwest

    30 de setembro de 2019, Azerbaijão ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After just two days in Azerbaijan (way too short!), we're crossing the border to Georgia. Our camp was just 10kms away and we reach it bright and early at 10am. There are a few cars in front of us but nothing too bad.
    Once we are at the control area (customs and passport control happens in one building), an officer takes our passports, another one quickly looks around Hans and we're motioned to get some luggage x-raid. What to take? Surely, we're not going to take everything... In the end, Tom takes our dirty laundry, a bag full of groceries and his backpack, but probably no one would have noticed if we hadn't taken anything (though the lady at the X-ray did ask "is that all?", upon which Tom answered we travel in a camper van, that it was a bit difficult and left.) Luckily, no one bothers about the car nor our belongings anymore. Instead we queue to have our paperwork checked. Tom and the car are first and there seems to be a problem. At first, we can't really figure out what happened but then they tell us that we haven't paid the road tax yet. You're supposed to pay it on arrival in Azerbaijan. We had assumed road and bridge tax (40$!) are the same, but no. A friendly and very well English speaking officer helps us out. We can pay it at the counter now, and everything is sorted. Those were costly two days in Azerbaijan... Happy that it's done, we continue to the Georgian side. I need to walk through the pedestrian/passenger passport control and am through in no time. Tom, however, is stuck due to our Australian registration. The officer just doesn't want to accept that this is the only official piece of paper we have! Realising the trouble we're in, I ask Tom to check whether we can look up the registration on the Queensland department of transportation website. Luckily, our internet connection is still working and Tom is able to find it after some time. Last problem: the registration we have with us has an expiration date on it. And while we had paid for it to be prolonged, neither of us has received or saved the new document. Jeez... Something we need to rectify asap! In the meantime the border officer grew tired of waiting and finally tells Tom it's ok and waves him through. Sigh. Deep breaths. And on we go. The compulsory insurance can be bought at a booth just 3kms away and soon thereafter we also find a shop to buy a simcard and an ATM. Everything sorted for now.
    Later, we meet a Dutch couple (labopstop.nl). I had seen their car at the border going the other direction and was wondering what happened. Well, as they didn't have paperwork for their small trailer (in the Netherlands you don't need it), they were refused entry to Azerbaijan. And that's when we really realised just how precarious our situation had been. With all those digitalised border crossings ahead of us, we better get our paperwork in better shape!    Leia mais

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  • Going home

    Georgia - Abano Pass

    3 de outubro de 2019, Geórgia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After we managed to cross the border to Georgia the number of possible destinations were endless.
    When looking for a spot to take the Mountain Bikes for a spin I read about a region called Tusheti, which lies in the far north of Georgia, close to the Caucasus. It comprises a few scattered remote villages with Omalo at its center and high mountains with hiking trails all around. Sounds perfect!
    The trick, however is to even get there in the first place. What separates Tusheti from the rest of Georgia is the infamous Abano Pass. Listed as one of the most dangerous roads in the world and the highest unpaved road in Europe it made us question our choice for a few minutes. Nevertheless, the weather was supposed to be untypically warm and dry the next few days and Hans is still in great shape so why not at least try it, right? And boy were we in for a treat!!

    The road took us up 2000m of elevation, climbing more switchbacks we could count through the most beautiful autumn scenery you can imagine, with leaf colours changing from green to yellow to a firery red just before we left the forest. After a 4h drive we reached the top of the pass at nearly 2800m. While the drive was really doable in the perfect conditions we had, we can imagine how dangerous it must be when it’s wet (the numerous crosses marking deadly accidents were sad evidence!)
    Tusheti was no less spectacular. As we arrived off season we had the whole valley almost to ourselves. The tourist information provided us with info about hiking trails, but first we took a closer look at the old villages with their ancient stone buildings nestled into the valleys.

    Oh and the 4x4 driving fun didn’t stop at the pass. Moving around in the valley felt like being on a 4WD practice course!

    On the second day we did a lovely ridge walk of approximately 5h with amazing views over the snow covered peaks of the Caucasus, followed by a short hike on the third day. Since the weather was supposed to change for the worse on Friday we made our way back towards the pass on day three to conquer the Abano Pass once more early Friday morning. You better know how to engine break otherwise you’re due for new break pads afterwards.

    I have a feeling that our hunch to drive to Tusheti might have brought us to one of the most beautiful parts of Georgia!    Leia mais

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  • Going home
    3
    He also got tired by all the festivitiesOur AirBnBCourtyardOh the Georgian foodWalnuts wrapped in grape juice

    Tbilisi

    5 de outubro de 2019, Geórgia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Tbilisi is a city I just didn't want to miss on this journey. I had heard so many good things about it and on top of it the annual city festival "Tbilisoba" happened on a weekend when we were around. A chance not be missed.
    Short version: we staid in a beautiful Airbnb in Old Town, met lots of friends, got to see some of the city festival and most of its sights and even attended a DJ event.
    If you're keen on the details, you'll have to read on 😉.
    Due to our earlier experiences with staying in the car in a city (you just really wish for a shower and a toilet), we chose to get an Airbnb for the weekend and leave Hans parked somewhere safe. And we couldn't have decided better despite of our difficulties of getting to our Airbnb department. Of course, I had chosen one in the old town (formerly the Jewish quarter), but I hadn't anticipated that this would also be the main location of the festival with many of the anyways small alleys closed to traffic. We made it there eventually and then enjoyed the beautiful setup and great location for the next few days. Everything was in walking distance!
    And we had quite a programme lined up: after settling in we met up with Micha and Sonja, the German overlanding couple we had last met just before crossing the Mongolian border. Small world 😊 we had dinner with them in a small family run restaurant, that looked like they had simply converted their living room. Grandpa acted as the entertainer, singing Karaoke (and quite well so) for the whole evening. Afterwards, we walked together through some of the festivities to have a look at the overlander friendly hostel they were staying at. Tom and I had to reach a different destination: I had booked tickets to a DJ event (Worakl with the Tbilisi symphony orchestra) that happened in a warehouse about 2kms from the hostel. So we said "goodbye and till next time" around 11pm and made our way to the event. Anyone who knows us is going to doubt this, but we staid until 2.20am and really enjoyed the electronic music. Quite a contrast to our normal travelling life but all the more fun because of it. As our cab driver also wasn't allowed to enter the narrow streets, we ended up walking another 2kms through Tbilisi's sights at night, passing remnants of the festival, still going parties and -our lifesaver- a shop that still sold our favourite pirogis filled with potatoes. Nothing beats a late night snack!
    The next day we joined a free city walking tour. Moto-Tom was in the city, too, so he came along as well. Our guide Anya knew lots of interesting places and stories and the time passed super quickly. Afterwards we enjoyed some people watching on the main square and then headed back to the apartment.
    Years ago I had met Kristina, a local woman working for an incoming tour agency, in India and we had made plans to meet up. Tom and I enjoyed her and her partner's company exchanging stories and tipps at a cute teahouse before heading to the festival once again. It was the last evening but sadly we missed the main act, a music and light performance, as its timing had been changed just a few hours prior to the start.
    The next day we had to move out of the apartment. We took Hans to have a service done and then moved to the hostel as we wanted to stay another night. Still so much to explore! In the afternoon we finally met up with the Kudliks who we had last seen in Kazachstan on Tom's birthday. We enjoyed our reunion so much that a short meeting turned into four bottels of wine in a fabulous rooftop bar.
    How lovely it is to have friends on the road...
    Tbilisi will stay a highlight of this trip for sure!    Leia mais

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