Tui Snider
Inquisitive world traveler who writes books, gives talks & leads tours through historic cemeteries. My homebase is Texas, where I share a goth/tiki castle with my mad scientist husband & tabby cat. For my newsletter & more visit: TuiSnider.com Læs mere🇺🇸United States
  • Somalian Pirates

    22. januar 2023, Red Sea ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    Our dinner table is by a window. The curtains were drawn last night, so I opened them.

    A few minutes later, a security team breezed in, chatting on walkie-talkies. “We found it!” I heard them exclaim as they hastily drew our shades.

    Oops! I forgot we are sailing in an area where Somalian pirates are a concern. The curtains were drawn for a reason.

    The ship sent a letter to each cabin explaining the precautions they would take and where to gather in the event we are boarded.

    For the past two days, we have not been allowed to walk out on the main deck and the ship is not lit up like a Christmas tree at night.

    Security officials stand guard 24/7 on the deck. I’ve seen them peering through binoculars.

    Last time we passed through this area, I could see that the ship was armed with water and sound cannons on either side, as well. I’m not sure this time.

    Even though the threat is a small one, I’m glad they are not taking any chances!
    Læs mere

  • Toilets of the World

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    The gift shop was busy, so I was surprised to find an empty stall in the ladies room so quickly.

    When I look in, however, I realized why it was empty!

    Luckily the other stalls featured more conventional toilets.Læs mere

  • Bedouins & Camels

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    “When you get to the bottom of the Siq, you’ll see a bunch of guys who look like Jack Sparrow,” Kamal told us. “These are Bedouins. And since it’s Saturday, you’ll see kids there, too. School’s out.”

    It’s true. With their kohl rimmed eyes, head scarves, and long jackets, some Bedouins look an awful lot like Jack Sparrow from Pirates of the Caribbean. I wonder if they inspired Johnny Depp’s garb?

    Up until 1985, many Bedouins lived in the ancient Nabatean caves here in Petra. But that year, after the long lost city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Jordanian government moved the Bedouins to a nearby village.

    “The Bedouins resented this at first, of course, wouldn’t you?” Kamal explained. “But enough years have gone by that now it’s all good in the hood. The Bedouins are the only ones allowed to sell stuff down here, so they’ve actually got a sweet deal.”

    Camel rides are one thing Bedouins offer in Petra, and ever since I rode on one here, I’ve been fascinated by these amazing creatures. Camels are tailor made for this arid climate, and truly live up to the nickname, “ship of the desert.”

    Kamal shared a few camel facts with us:

    * They can go 6 weeks without water
    * Their ears are “twisty” inside, to keep out sand during sand storms.
    * They are extremely sure footed in rocky terrain, and as I have experienced while riding on one, they can traverse extremely steep inclines with ease.
    * Their pretty long eyelashes also protect them from sand.

    I’m sure there are more cool facts about camels, but that’s all I can remember for now.

    The Bedouins also offer horse rides to the entrance of the Siq, but we didn’t want to miss any of Kamal’s information, so we walked, instead.

    Before leaving us to wander on our own Kamal gave us one more piece of advice, “If you buy something in Jordan, whether it’s from a Bedouin or anyone else, remember that all prices are negotiable. It’s polite to strike a bargain. Have fun with it.”

    On our way out of town, I noticed a place called the Nomad Hotel. It’s facade is a mock up of The Treasury, and it features a nifty mural on the side showing a Bedouin offering flying coffee cups and winged camels.

    Later, I saw a lone Bedouin shepherd with his flock of sheep, all of which nearly blended into the Jordanian landscape completely.
    Læs mere

  • Petra Cats

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    You know me! I had to touch base with the local felines. This trio reside at the gift shop at the opening of the Siq.

    On our way down, I saw the shop owner petting them and feeding them in back of his store.

    When I passed by again near sunset, they were lounging on little rugs their owner puts out on the rocks for them.

    I think that’s pretty sweet!
    Læs mere

  • The Treasury at Petra

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Al-Khazneh a.k.a. "The Treasury" is a breathtaking sight as you emerge from the rocky canyon and into ancient Petra’s Main Street.

    Despite what you may have seen in “Indiana Jones,” The Treasury does not house the Holy Grail!

    Instead, it’s believed to be a mausoleum for the Nabatean King Aretas IV and was carved in the first century AD.

    The mausoleum contains three burial chambers, but visitors are not allowed inside, and the bodies which were once housed there are long since gone.

    So why is it called “The Treasury,” when it’s actually a tomb? Over the millennia, even locals forgot its true origins.

    In the 1800s, local Bedouins thought the urn you see at the top of the structure contained treasures, so they shot at “The Treasury” until they realized it was merely solid stone.

    Let’s talk about the carvings on The Treasury and what they mean:

    The urn at the top, symbolizes a funeral urn. Ancient Greek soldiers were cremated with their ashes placed in urns. (Victorians also borrowed the urn from the ancient Greeks as a cemetery symbol, but that is another story.)

    The female figure below the urn is the goddess Isis, meant to symbolize fertility.

    Directly beside and behind her are winged Amazon warriors, 6 in total.

    In the niches to the left and right of her are Nikes, which are victory goddesses.

    Below this top section, the building looks like a Greek temple. There are roses and wine glasses engraved here.

    The wine is believed to represent wealth and celebration. Our guide wasn’t sure what the roses stand for.

    On either side of this lower section are two figures on horseback. These are Castor and Pollux (aka the Gemini twins and children of Zeus.)

    Castor and Pollux are also said to protect those who travel, which makes sense here since so many traveled through Petra in its heyday.

    This was my third visit and I hope to return yet again!
    Læs mere

  • “Siq” & Ye Shall Find

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    In the 1800s, a British scholar named John William Burgeon described Petra as a, “rose red city, half as old as time.”

    That phrase kept running through my mind as we wound our way through the rugged canyon worn by nature and chiseled by ancient man, a labyrinthine path known as the Siq.

    “Siq” is simply Arabic for a narrow and deep canyon. So much like the Icelandic word, “geyser,” it’s made its way into dictionaries worldwide.

    In some parts, the rocky walls are quite narrow and shadows cool the air. In other parts, it’s fairly wide, maybe 100 feet?

    Thousands of years ago, the Nabateans diverted water and even created channels for livestock. The channel for the animals to drink from are open. You can see it along the side of the siq in some of these photos.

    But who were the Nabateans, anyway?

    The Nabateans were originally a nomadic tribe. They spoke Aramaic, but did not leave any written texts beyond a bit of graffiti. For this reason, everything we know about them has come from other sources.

    At some point, the Nabateans decided to settle down in Petra, which became their capital city. (Exactly when and why are the matter of some debate.)

    The Nabateans actually called their city Raqmu, but the preponderance of sandstone carvings caused the Greeks to call it Petra, meaning “rock,” and the name has stuck.

    Petra’s location was ideal for many reasons.

    For one thing, it was located near major trade routes for spices, incense, and more. It soon became a major hub, and its inhabitants grew wealthy.

    Some residents collected tar from the Red Sea and sold it to Egyptians who used it in their mummification process.

    As desert nomads, the Nabataeans knew how to thrive in the harsh climate. When outsiders attacked, they could easily hide in the labyrinthine canyons and strike back from hidden crevices.

    The Nabateans also figured out clever ways to manage a very precious resource: water. They redirected springs from other areas and stored it for later use. They also dammed areas prone to flooding and created channels for livestock to drink from.

    What an oasis this ancient city must have been for weary desert travelers!

    In 106 AD, the Romans took over Petra. Even so, it remained a thriving city until the 7th century AD. At that point, between a series of earthquakes and the rise of trade via seaports, the demise of this once thriving city soon followed.

    After Petra was abandoned it was nearly forgotten, becoming the stuff of legends for more than a thousand years.

    The city’s exact location remained unknown to the western world until 1812, when Swiss traveller Johann Ludwig Burckhardt disguised himself as an Arab and convinced some Bedouins to take him there.

    These days, Petra is Jordan’s biggest tourist attraction. Personally, I find it enchanting and absolutely gorgeous.
    Læs mere

  • World’s Oldest Bar?

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We ate lunch at the Petra Guest House Hotel. I love Middle Eastern food, and the hummus here was phenomenal.

    Much of the hotel is built into stone. In fact, the bar and courtyard were originally carved by the ancient Nabateans!

    The Cave Bar wasn’t open this early in the day, so I couldn’t peek inside. It bills itself as “the oldest bar in the world,” since it’s housed in an ancient tomb.

    The courtyard and niches on the side were also carved thousands of years ago. Pretty cool that they are still in use.

    As for “Mansafe,” that’s a popular Jordanian dish, “It’s rice, potatoes, herbs, yogurt, and a ton of carbs,” according to Kamal. “So you need a nap after, but it’s really tasty. I like to eat in on the weekend when I can be lazy.”

    The food photos here aren’t the best, but I’m including them as a memory for myself.
    Læs mere

  • Walk to the Siq

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    After a wonderful lunch, Kamal shepherded us down the stony path to the Rose Red City a.k.a. Petra by calling out, “Yallah, yallah, yallah! Let’s go!”

    We passed a gauntlet of tourist shops along the way, but soon we were surrounded by ancient history.

    Our tickets included a free horse ride to the entrance of the main canyon, but we skipped this.

    We would’ve missed Kamal’s commentary had we done so, as well as missing several tombs that the ancient Nabateans carved into the rocks.

    You can see the Egyptian influence in the tomb with the obelisks on it, but I’ll talk more about that in another post.
    Læs mere

  • Drive to Petra & Jordanian Culture

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    It takes a little over 2 hours to drive from the Port of Aqaba to Petra, but we had a wonderful guide and beautiful scenery to enjoy along the way.

    At one point, a few buses turned off the main road to a single dusty lane. Our guide, Kamal, explained that this shortcut would shave at least 30 minutes off our trip.

    All the more time to explore Petra!

    Jordanians love cinder blocks, it seems, and many buildings have rebar jutting out of the top floor.

    According to Kamal, this is so families can live together. His grandparents, for instance, built a house. His uncle built an apartment on top of it, and his parents built another floor atop that.

    When Kamal was little, if he didn’t like what was for dinner at his parents’ house, he could pop over and see what grandma had made.

    As Kamal pointed out, keeping the family together like this, each living in their own private apartment, is quite handy for both childcare and elder care.

    In addition to rebar, the top floor of most buildings features a solar powered hot water tank. (See photos.)

    Along the way, we stopped at a mountaintop cafe with an astounding rooftop view.

    Not only did they serve Arabian style coffee, but they had plenty of Pringles for sale. Lol!

    I find Jordanian style coffee quite tasty because they add cardamom to it. Yum!

    I’ve yet to figure out how locals tie their head scarves, but it’s a good look.

    Kamal is in his early 40’s and well versed in pop culture. His informative narration was peppered with numerous snarky asides.

    If I didn’t know otherwise, I’d assume Kamal was American. Aside from rolling the occasional r, his accent was flawless.

    I enjoyed learning about life in Jordan, both past and present. Phosphate, potash & tourism are the main industries.

    Unlike other countries in the Middle East, Kamal told us that, “religion is not a big thing here.”

    His family is Muslim, but he has many Christian friends, too. “We don’t fight with each other. You will see churches next to mosques.”

    “And during Ramadan,” he explained, “when Muslims are fasting all day, you will see our Christian friends on the street corner giving us water and dates when sunset comes.”

    “We even do Secret Santa gift exchanges with each other,” he continued. “Is it against our religion? No, it’s just fun.”

    Before we knew it, we’d reached Kamal’s hometown, the hilly town by Petra.
    Læs mere

  • Jordanian Cemetery

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    When our bus made a pit stop at a cafe, I dashed next door to check out the cemetery.

    The mounded graves remind me a lot of scraped graveyards I’ve seen in the American south.

    I can’t read any of the inscriptions, although it does look like there are numbers at the bottom. Dates, I presume?Læs mere

  • Hollywood Loves Wadi Rum

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Wadi Rum is a desert near the port of Aqaba in Jordan. “Wadi” means “valley,” and “Rum” means “place with the high mountains.”

    The stark rocky outcroppings and red soil make it an ideal location for certain films.

    Everything from “Dune,” “Lawrence of Arabia, “Star Wars,” “Aladdin,” and “The Martian,” have used this as a location.

    Not only that, but Wadi Rum is a UNESCO world heritage site, as well as a popular stargazing spot.

    I’d love to spend the night there during a meteor shower sometime!
    Læs mere

  • Jordanian Flag

    21. januar 2023, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    At a glance, you might think the flags in both photos are the same. However, our guide told us the first flag, which we saw near the port in Aqaba, stands for the Arab revolt. To me it looks like the Palestinian flag.

    The flags in the second photo, which we saw in Petra, are the actual Jordanian banner.

    The red, black, and white bands stand for different caliphates. Meanwhile, the seven pointed star stands for the first seven verses of the Quran.
    Læs mere

  • Suez Canal

    20. januar 2023, Egypten ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    The Suez Canal is one of the most important shortcuts in the world!

    Sailing through this manmade channel allows ships to pass from the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea without having to circumnavigate the entire African continent.

    People have wanted this shortcut for centuries, but it was one of those ideas that looks easier on paper than in actual practice.

    After several failed attempts, work began again in 1859 using forced labor working under lousy conditions.

    Success came with a bitter human price tag: At least 120,000 workers died along the way, but ten years later, the canal opened in 1869.

    Giuseppe Verdi was commissioned to write an opera for the event. His “Aida” was performed for the first time at the Cairo Opera House for the inauguration of the Suez Canal.

    As you can imagine, the canal had an immediate and major effect on world trade.

    Today, nearly 100 ships take this shortcut each day.

    You don’t just show up whenever you want. There are two convoys each day, one in each direction. You must make an appointment and pass through single file, but as part of your group.

    Each ship is accompanied by a tug boat and guided by a local pilot. (See photos.) I always get a kick out of watching the port pilots come alongside our ship and hop aboard. The one for the Suez Canal was wearing a very fancy uniform, but I wasn’t able to get a decent photo of him.

    Our ship arrived at Port Said around 9 pm and hung around all night with all the other ships scheduled to go through with us.

    We took off at dawn and made it to the Red Sea roughly 4 1/2 hours later.

    Remember a few years ago when a ship got stuck sideways in the canal? Since then, the canal has been enlarged.

    They also added a second lane in 2016, and roughly halfway through, the Great Bitter Lake offers room for ships to pass each other in opposite directions.

    This is my 3rd trip through the Suez Canal and it’s always more interesting than I expect.
    Læs mere

  • Playful Cats & Wistful Dog

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    As our tour guide rounded us up for the final time, a playful kitty darted out and swatted at a man’s dangling camera strap.

    I also noticed a dog during our walk today, seeing that little snout peek beneath a metal gate was a cute sight.Læs mere

  • Jaffa Gate Tombs

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    The sun was setting as we left Jerusalem’s Old City. As we passed the Jaffa Gate, I noticed a couple tombs behind a metal fence. I have no idea who these are for, but would love to find out the story behind them.Læs mere

  • Mint Tea

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Mint tea is quite popular in the Middle East and I found it interesting to see how some people make it at work. This is was what the set up looked like behind the counter of a little shop in Jerusalem.Læs mere

  • Masonic Symbol

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Considering that Jerusalem is the site of Solomon’s Temple, (a key component to many Masonic teachings) it really should not have surprised me to see a Masonic compass and square symbol today. And yet it did. Silly me!Læs mere

  • Israeli Bomb Disposal

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Right beside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Larry noticed a strange device, which he correctly deduced to be a bomb disposal unit!

    Our guide said such devices can be found all over town!

    I should mention that security was tight here in Israel. Simply leaving the ship this morning was a lengthy procedure.

    First, Israeli officials wiped down our bags and other items with cloth checking for traces of explosives.

    Next, our passports were checked. Instead of being stamped, we were given a little piece of paper to carry with us. “Do not lose this!”they warned.

    It took the better part of an hour to be processed before we even reached our tour bus.

    Then, the ride to Jerusalem took a couple hours. Add to that several hours of walking and you end up with a lot of steps on your pedometer and a very long day!
    Læs mere

  • Church of the Holy Sepulcher

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    After Via Dolorosa, we made our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which has been a major Christian pilgrimage destination since it was built in the 4th century AD.

    The church features the final four stations of the cross. It was built by the Emperor Constantine and is considered to be the site of the crucifixion, burial and resurrection of Christ.

    One section of the church was crammed with people waiting to enter through an ornately decorated entrance and see the Holy Sepulcher, which once housed the body of Christ.

    Our guide told us this is a 2 to 3 hour wait on a good day and took us to see a different empty tomb, instead. He wasn’t sure who was once buried there, but it was interesting to see this burial niche. People leave prayer candles inside it to this day.

    It was nearly sunset when we left. The doors are open from sunrise to sunset. Local pigeons certainly know this. I saw a dozen or so fly into the church to roost as we walked out.
    Læs mere

  • Bread & Nuts

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Despite our wonderful lunch, there were many times today that I wanted to stop for fresh nuts and other tasty treats in Jerusalem’s Old City. Ah, well! Another time.

  • Punny T Shirts

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I saw some punny t shirts at shops along the souk. My favorites are: “Pikajew,” “Jew Jitsu,” “Just Jew It,” and “Guns ‘n’ Moses.”

    Silly stuff!

  • Via Dolorosa

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    After a brisk trek through the souk, our guide told us to wait for him “at the next corner”while he walked back to round up a few stragglers.

    As we stood there, I glanced up at the street plaque and realized we were at Via Dolorosa This is the street along which Jesus carried his cross.

    Like the rest of the souk, Via Dolorosa is lined with shops. It’s easy to think it’s a street like any other.

    As you walk up Via Dolorosa, the stations of the cross are identified by a Roman numeral and a descriptive sculpture.

    At the sixth station, for instance, the sculpture shows Veronica wiping Jesus’ brow with her shawl.

    A brief account of this is also chiseled into the wall at the sixth station, although this was much easier to see in person than it is in my photo.
    Læs mere

  • How Bazaar

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    The tunnel from the Western Gate took us to the Arab market, aka “souk.” This labyrinthine maze of narrow streets was a pleasant assault on the senses with bright colors and alluring scents such as frankincense, fresh bread, and coffee.

    I wanted to stop and explore, but our guide was on a mission and it was all we could do to keep up.
    Læs mere

  • Book Machine

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    We reached the Western Wall by entering Jerusalem’s Old City through the Dung Gate. As the name implies, this gate was once an area used for trash.

    We left the Western Wall through the Damascus Gate, which led us into a tunnel.

    Along the way, I saw a book vending machine. For a price, you could buy a variety of religious texts.

    They also had a spot where you could look down to see the Roman Era streets. I was surprised how built up the modern streets were in this area.

    Our guide explained that this varies widely. In some parts of the Old City, you still walk along the actual ancient Roman streets. In others, the streets have been built up over the centuries.

    I was also intrigued by a “scarf return station.” Women who forgot to bring scarves to cover their heads can return borrowed ones here.

    If we’d had more time, I would have enjoyed stopping for a treat at the cafe I saw in the tunnel.. I bet it’s especially nice to relax there on a hot summer day.
    Læs mere

  • Western Wall

    18. januar 2023, Palæstina ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I’d always heard the “Western Wall” referred to as the “Wailing Wall" but today I learned that many Jews consider that a derogatory term.

    So, “Western Wall” it is!

    The Western Wall is the most religious site in the world for Jewish people. The wall is the last remnant of an ancient temple and can be found in the Old City of Jerusalem.

    The Western Wall is also sacred in Islam. According to their tradition, the Prophet Muhammed tethered his winged horse, Buraq, on the Wall after his miraculous night flight from Mecca to Jerusalem.

    No matter what your religious beliefs may be, all people all welcome to pray here. Men pray on one side, and women on the other.

    I’m not sure what the fountain is for. I think some folks wash their hands before praying.

    Many visitors tuck a note into crevices along the wall. I felt inspired to do so during my visit.

    From time to time, these notes are collected and then buried on the Mount of Olives according to a Jewish ritual.
    Læs mere

Få din egen rejseprofil

Gratis

QR code

FindPenguins til iOSFindPenguins til Android