Tunisia
Carthage Byrsa

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    • Day 3

      Karthago

      April 18, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Tunis. Ehemals Karthago. Da fällt einem doch sofort wieder der Latein Unterricht ein. „Ceterum censeo carthaginem esse delendam“. Cato pflegte im Senat jede seiner Reden mit dieser Alliteration zu beenden. „Im Übrigen bin ich der Meinung, dass Karthago zerstört werden muss“. Irgendwann wurde sein Wunsch erhört und in den 3. Punischen Kriegen wurde Karthago 150 v. Chr. schließlich zerstört.

      Die Ruinen kann man heute in Tunis besichtigen.

      Und das ist das Thema des heutigen Tages. Nebenbei bemerkt: Tunis ist maximal unturistisch. Ich habe bislang keinen einzigen Ausländer gesehen. Die Nutzung der zwei Züge die es in der Stadt gibt gestaltet sich als höchst anspruchsvoll. Hätte ich vorher besser mal ein paar Worte Französisch gelernt.

      Für einen halben Dinar braucht es ca. 20 Minuten von Tunis Marina bis Karthago Hanibal. Weitere 15 Minuten Fußweg und man ist bei den Ruinen. Das Ticket zu kaufen ist eher Glücksache aber sonst machts ja keinen Spaß.

      Dort angekommen stellt man fest, es handelt sich um römische Ruinen nach der Zerstörung Karthagos. Teile sehen aus wie das Forum Romanum, Teile wie die Akropolis. Aufmerksame Leser erinnern sich sicher an meine Exkursionen nach Rom und Athen.

      Leider ist alles sehr schlecht ausgeschildert und man findet Manches einfach nur zufällig. Da es auch alles ziemlich weit voneinander entfernt liegt stellt sich bald eine deutliche Müdigkeit und Frustration ein. Der Blick jedoch von den Hügeln der Villa Romain und der Gang über die römische Straße, die wie die Via Appia breit durch die Ruinen läuft, lassen einen die Strapazen für einen Moment vergessen.

      Ob ich Cato recht geben muss und die Zerstörung notwendig war kann ich heute nicht mehr sagen. Aber zumindest ist jetzt einmal mehr ein so prägnanter Satz mit Inhalt im Buch des Lebens gefüllt. Hoffentlich folgen viele weitere. Drum schließe ich mit Cicero: Dum spiro, spero. (Solange ich atme, hoffe ich.)
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    • Day 3

      Kartagina

      May 13, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Okazuje się, że to jedynie fundament i piwnice, gdzie znajdowały się urządzania techniczne dla tak ogromnego kompleksu dla 2 tysięcy gości. Były to kiedyś największe termy w Imperium Rzymskim, zajmowały powierzchnię 3,5 hektara a przy okazji kąpieli prowadzono tu liczne polityczne dysputy.
      A my hasamy po murkach jak szaleni 🙊🙉🙈
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    • Day 59

      Carthage

      February 11 in Tunisia ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      Today was going to consist of a lot of ruins and a lot of walking. Luckily, I had just read up about the Phoenicians and was incredibly eager to learn a bit more and get a taste for life in the once great city of Carthage. Older than the city of Rome, Carthage holds its own origins in the regions around what is today Lebanon. An ousted queen began building a new civilisation that would birth Carthage, and it is believed that emmigrants from this young city were the original bloodline of the future enemy's, the Romans. This new settlement placed them in the perfect position to dominate the whole Mediterranean. From the central location in Northern Africa, they dominated trade in the sea and quickly became a superpower with wealth that not even Rome could match. Learning about the demise of the city made for an acceptionally overwhelming and interesting experience within the ruins. I started at the Roman Villas, where I spent an acceptional amount of time wandering around the large site, shadowed by the large Malik ibn Anas Mosque. Although incredible to see, I quickly learnt that Tunisia doesn't have the infrastructure that more developed countries may have around a similar site. As such, there was no audio guide or information pieces, and so after a while, it kind of starts to feel a bit repetitive. Without knowing what you're looking at specifically, it's just old rock walls everywhere you look. Nonetheless, for the equivalent of 6 AUD, I had access to 8 sites within walking distance. With this in mind, I continued to the next site to see how it may differ. I headed toward the Roman theatre of Carthage, where it was cool to see the condition in which this structure had maintained compared to the villas right next door. It was, however, not a place you could spend a lot of time. So it wasn't long until I had moved on. The most amazing part of my time in Carthage relates to the sheer number of sites present in the city and the unrestricted access. I had access to 8 with my ticket but even walking along the street youd stumble across many more that just appear out of nowhere, and you are simply allowed to wander and explore the ancient monument. I did this multiple times just on my journey to the next site, Byrsa Hill. This is where the phoenecians are said to have first began their civilisation, tricking the former King into forfeiting the hill. This was the most developed part and did have some information pieces and the option of a tour. I regret not taking up the option of a tour, but given there was plenty of information pieces, I could at least rely on them. This site had the best views of the city, the bay of Tunis, and the old ruins of Carthage. Eventually, I restarated my journey, and at the next sites, I would be witnessing true phoenician ruins. So far, I had experienced only Roman ruins, as although the Phoenicians were once the most powerful force in the Mediterranean, the growing power of Rome soon became overwhelming and in 200 BC after many devastating Punic wars with the Romans, they had fully surrendered. The Romans demanded that they fully disarm and confiscated every weapon within the city limits. But, when the Romans then demanded they evacuate the city and move inland, the phoenicians decided they could not willingly abandon their ancient and beautiful city. They fought a 3 year war as the Romans laid siege to the city. When it finally fell, well over 50% of the population was massacred, the rest sold to slavery, and the whole city literally wiped off the map. The hatred the Romans had toward the pheonicians was so that they returned once a year to once again light ablaze to any remnants of what once was, worried it would one day return. Only during trajans rule many centuries later did they understand the importance of the city and its location. As such, the Romans then paid extreme amounts of money to rebuild it as a Roman outpost. These are the ruins that are present today, and in fact, the fact that Phoenician ruins are so rare is simply due to the rigorous destruction that the Romans inflicted on the town. With that being said, there are still some sites. Though, it must be said, when you arrive, there is very little left, leaving a real test for your capacity to imagine a once bustling city. After these sites, I soon arrived at the once legendary site of the Carthaginian port. Legendary for its complex structure, impenetrable walls, and effective system for controlling trade boats and the navy. Unfortunately, it was underhwleming when I saw it in person. The Romans clearly did a great job of demolishing any remnants of a city. Nonetheless, it was cool to see and imagine. The final stop of the day would be the baths of Antoninus. These were easily the best preserved and the most grandiose of all the sites. It was massive, with some of the original pillars still standing. The image that reflects its former size and design helped to paint a picture of life here once upon a time. After some time exploring, I was given the very pleasant surprise of a dead phone. Given that I was an hour walk from home and zero sense of direction, I was in for some fun. Luckily, I had checked directions just a few minutes earlier, and there was a very pleasant walk that would take me straight to the beach that I was familiar with. How lucky?! Only this path was closed, and I had to wander the streets. After asking a few locals, I had determined I was in the right direction, but I would be wandering some time before I found somewhere familiar. Only I was far from confident of getting home. Eventually, however, I found myself near the supermarket and in a place I could get home. Despite taking longer than expected (we'll over an hour), I did eventually make it and could relax. It was a massive day and I was very tired. I made some pimped out 2-minute noodles and prepared for bed.Read more

    • Day 5

      Karthago

      July 20 in Tunisia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      Weiter ging es nach Karthago. Gegründet 8. oder 9. Jahrhundert.
      Heute Weltkulturerbestätte der UNESCO.
      Gehörte früher zur römischen Provinz und war eines der größten Handelsstädte. Wurde aber von den Arabern zerstört.Read more

    • Day 3

      Kartagina

      May 13, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      W skłąd rozległego kompleksu wchodziły szatnie, baseny z zimną i gorącą wodą, sauny, sale do masażu a nawet sale gimnastyczne - gimnazjony. Główna łaźnia dorównywała swoją wielkością basenu olimpijskiego. Rzymianie w termach zastosowali nawet hypocaustum, czyli system centralnego ogrzewania.
      Czas mija szybko bo i teren ogromny.
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    • Day 3

      Kartagina • Punicka nekropolia

      May 13, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Wreszcie dobijamy do Kartaginy. To jeden z najważniejszych punkcików na historycznej mapie świata. Imperium kartagińskie, wcześniej państwo-miasto a u schyłku po wojnach punickich została kolonią rzymską i stolicą Wandali.
      Wchodzimy na tereny archeologiczne i już widać jak wielki obszar. Alejka palmowo-cyprysowa doprowadza nas do punickiej nekropolii. Tofet to święty okrąg otoczony murem, swego rodzaju cmentarz, na którym Punijczycy grzebali urny ze spopielonymi szczątkami niemowląt i bardzo małych dzieci. Historycy wciąż się spierają czy były to dzieci złożone w ofiarach, czy jednak zmarły naturalnie lub urodziły się martwe.
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    • Day 6

      The Acropolis of Carthage

      August 20, 2018 in Tunisia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      We say goodbye to the house in the Medina and head to the long awaited Acropolis of Carthage. The good weather makes me so emotional ! I want to shout that IT IS SUNNY IN TUNIS TODAY!
      The massive Cathedral of Saint Louis is just on the top of the hill of the Acropolis. It was built by the French protectorat at the end of the 19th century. It looks a bit anacronistic if compared to the ancient ruins which surround it, but it has got beauty in itself. If seen by a distance it is like l'Eglise su Sacré Coeur in Paris.

      It's high time we went to the the archeologic site. Actually, the sites (plural), because Carthage's ruins are scattered all along the hill. I just realize there won't be enough time to see them all. We make a choice and go for the nearby Museum and archeological site. The museum is closed for maintenance but the ancient Basilicas and the Punic quarter looking out the double circles of the Punic harbour give me the creeps. This site is even older than the Roman sites I am used to in Europe. Hannibal resided here. The Punic battles were fought from here, Hannibal , the undefeated hater of Romans, was Tunisian!
      I shouldn't talk but the hot is killing me, and Walid. We move to the second site, the Termae of Antonin dated II century A.C.which is inside a beautiful archeological park. On the way, we come across a beautiful building that we find out to be the Institute of Arts and Science of Tunis. Thanks to the kind guardian, who was about to go to lunch, we get access to the building. What a spectacular view!
      The Termae (Spa) lays just by the sea, they are massive and many buildings are in an excellent state. We sit down to admire the times gone by and to gain a little shade.

      It's time to go home...but not before trying a delicious Brik at a nearby pizzeria. Brik is a deep fried crunchy thin crèpe filled with tuna, eggs and cheese. Spectacular. Thank you Walid.

      When we get home Mansour shows me a number 1-shaped birthday candle and tells me "this is the first time for you in our home". I don't take too much notice.
      When later in the evening I see a carton box hiding a pistache cake from the best patisserie in town I understand and while I blow on the candle I burst into tears.
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    • Day 399

      Carthage

      May 19, 2018 in Tunisia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      OK so we saw lots of different archeological sites in Carthage the first and least impressive was the Roman amphitheater mostly because it was very much a ruin so difficult to imagine the true scale. From there we went to the Carthage Basra museum and grounds ,the museum was actually closed for refurbishment but that was OK as the write ups said it wasn’t very good anyway but in the grounds were Punic ruins of the old town early second century BC and the Old Cathedral. Next the St. Antonine Roman baths third largest in Roman world, they were impressive then the Roman villas where for those of us with little imagination they have rebuilt one. We also saw the Punic harbour and the Trophet (children’s cemetery sort off, but only for the first born of each family and they were apparently cremated after their throats were cut). Nearly done so off we went to the Roman theatre, which wasn’t very historic only a few old bits still exist but it has been rebuilt and is used for music festivals in the summer, and finally the cisterns/reservoirs, we didn’t have any info on them but they were impressive and must have stored a lot of water that was brought down from somewhere whose name starts with Z by aquaduct.Read more

    • Day 11,839

      99 - Karthago

      February 5, 2012 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Resturlaub muß weg, mit Istanbul hat sich uns der Orient geöffnet. Unser erstes arabisches Ziel: Tunesien!
      Über TUI buchen wir ein paar Ausflüge, als erstes geht es in den Großraum Tunis.
      Von Karthago selbst ist nichts mehr zu finden. Die Anlage des Kriegshafens aber ist zumindest noch zu erahnen. Kaum zu glauben, daß diese Pfütze einst der Hafen war, vor dessen Kriegsflotte die antike Welt zitterte...Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Carthage Byrsa, قرطاج بيرصا

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