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Learning To Swim

August - September 2019
One year ago...
A-'So, what would you like to do to celebrate your 50th?'
S-'I would love to sit at a cafe in Paris and watch the world go by',
'and you?'
A-'I'd love to go to the Greek islands and party'
S-'We should just do it'
A-'Yessssssss' Read more
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  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    121221122
    Day 5

    Louvre

    August 21, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I needed to be at the bottom of the Montmarte hill by 12.00 midday in order to make it to my entry time stamp of 1-1.30pm at the Louvre.

    This meant catching 2 train lines and lining up for security, for ticket collection and to get into the louvre from the pyramid entrance.

    Well I had no clue what to do, but had every faith in myself to just work it out, and make it happen. It did, I was inside the Louvre in approx 20 minutes.

    Online booking meant I already had my ticket. Time stamp meant had a fastpass in a 30 minute window. I walked past huge lines inside. Until The Mona Lisa!

    I was heading to Vermeer's 'The Lace Maker' in Richelieu wing as this area would be quieter. Not this time. They had moved the Mona Lisa in a room right next to my painting!!!

    Dumbasses. Bloody renovations. I asked staff which direction for Vermeer. They smiled at me as if to say you poor girl, wanting to see a painting next to the most famous one in the world.

    They got it. This was my experience with every staff member I chatted to in the Louvre. They sit there all bored. Then I walk up to them. You see I tried to speak French to them, failed miserably, I would say the magic word 'englais' to them, then their faces lit up with big smiles. They could see in me my joy to be there, a willingness to try to adapt, stuffing it up but smiling anyway. Now where can I find Delacroix?, Canova? and so on.

    Julie asked me to find Eugene Delacroix's 'Frightened horse leaping from water' in lithograph. I looked, nothing in the French artists section. I asked where it is? I was told that if I came back tomorrow, and booked a time, the director could take me into a special room to see the drawings. You see the drawings are not on display, due to their delicacy. Well so sorry Jules I am not coming back tomorrow as will be flying to Italy.

    Walking the Louvre by myself, best thing in the world.

    My arts history teacher, Mr Ross Miller, has taught me about these world famous paintings and artists with huge passion when I was 16 years old. Every slide he showed me has stuck.

    I treat these works of the masters of any era like my old friends. Even tearing up, when I face one unexpectedly. Recognition. I totally know these guys. I see a painting and the artists name comes out of my mouth. I get to really celebrate my own appreciation for these works.

    I eat Quiche at the corner Cafe while staring through the windows at the crowds outside the pyramid.

    I come across my favourite pieces - Canova's 'Cupid and Psyche' and 'Winged Victory of Samarance' (Which always reminds me of Carolyn)
    Bought them on way home in a model shop for 10 euro each. In Louvre were 110.00 euro.    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    Day 5

    Athena's Last Night in Paris

    August 21, 2019 in France ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Hi Athena here, just letting you know about our last night in Paris.

    It all started with us chilling in our hotel room & me falling asleep. Sandra finally waking me up as it was 8pm &, we needed to start getting ready for our cruise where we had no idea on what time it was leaving & where it was leaving from & we had purchased no tix. As you can tell, our organisation was non existent. I said to Sandra, OK start getting ready, she responds with I'm ready.... I thought hmmmm, I asked her whether she's wearing what she had on, she said yea why?,i said don't you want to get dressed up for our last day in Paris & the cruise..... Sandra agreed in putting something other than what we call her comfy dress. Well she wore a beautiful dress 👗 and she looks awesome.

    We headed out & realised that the ferry doesn't depart from Notre-Dame & that it actually depends from the eiffel 🗼. So we went on line to purchase tix just to realise that there were no seats available!!!!!. Oh well by this time it was 9.30pm & I was starving for my onion soup for the fourth night in a row.

    The first night we arrived in Paris we had dinner at a beautiful restaurant 🍴 & the food and service was outstanding so we decided to head back & make our last night a nice one.

    As soon as the waiter saw us his eyes 👀 lit up & we found ourselves having e waiter's looking after us.

    Hi Sandra back again... We enjoyed our soup, I got drunk and we walked back, whilst I became all philosophical about what love really should look like.    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    1
    Day 6

    Flying to Genoa

    August 22, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Transfer bus arrived at 7am for Charles De Gaulle. Flight at 10.30am to Genoa.

    Whilst enjoying our pastries, I encouraged Athena to face time her mother on FB messenger. Angela was so happy to see her daughter. She kept saying,'I love you Sandra', as she knew full well the coaxing that was required. Beautiful.

    Called Jules and chatted away. Hi Lee. Sunny afternoon in Eumundi. So good to see happy smiling faces of people we love xx

    We wander toward our gate and Athena turns to me and says 'They are calling out our names!'
    SHIT! 'RUN!!!'
    We ran down the glass corridor to gate 33. Phew, just made it.
    So 1hr 20mins to Genoa.
    And here we go from 'Bonjour' to 'Bonjourno' ☺

    Landed and caught the Volubus to Station Principle.
    At a little outside wine and beer bar at the station, I asked for a piece of spinach pie. The woman serving was confused and yelled out 'American, American'. A guy came over to serve me. Of course I said 'No American, Australian 🇦🇺 with a big smile' they laughed and all said ohh Australian!

    I just love interacting with everyone I come across. A cheeky grin 😁 spreads across my face and another wonderful haphazard attempt at speaking foreign flows out of my mouth. It is so great.

    I get our tickets to Monterosso for 11 euro each. And head to platform 20. Athena says she is not sure this is our train. I ask what do you want to do? She said she will go check.

    Our train was leaving in 12 mins though. Our train time came and no Athena. I messaged her to say our train is due now. I thought good god where is she? She turned up in the nick of time. I was ready to leave without her. 😡    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    Day 6

    Monterosso

    August 22, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We pull into Monterosso station. It's packed with people trying to get to the towns.
    We carry our massive cases down the stairs and come out the front to the most amazing little italian seaside village.

    It is boiling hot. 30 degrees. Humid, so I throw my thongs on.
    The beach 🏖 is packed with people on chairs and in the water. An array of colourful umbrellas cover the pebble beach.

    You look down the coastline to the left and can easily see Vernazza and Corniglia. Actually you can see all the 4 other towns from here, Manarolo and Riomaggiore too. Amazing.

    Athena just wants to get to the hotel to put bathers on and get down there. I know I will be burn't within 10 minutes and wish to stop for a break. (it can be a bit full on being the responsible one to ensure we catch the right anything)

    We head to the little free beach on the right at the end of our street. A 3min stroll. Athena wants to sunbake. I walk straight into the water. It is devine.

    The beach is made up of a grey rounded pebble. I massage my sore feet on them. I am so happy floating here with lots of very tanned people around. Kids are jumping off rocks and on lilos. Everyone is happy.

    I cannot tell you how wonderful this place is. No advertising, no music blaring, nobody is looking at their phone. just relaxed families and couples all chatting enjoying an Italian summer holiday. All Europeans.

    Monterosso al Mare is in a protected Cove. Boats sit out in the water. I go buy a gelato from the little shop on the beach. 3 euro. Lemon. Sooo good. Creamy with a sweet tartness. I may have 2-3 a day!

    Everyone strolls here. No hurry, no pushing. Lovers are all affectionate. Children are healthy and tanned. I think I am the whitest person here. My legs certainly glowed under the water while I swam.

    I suggest to Athena that we grab dinner now before the crowds. We sit at a table along the beach. I choose scallops with ginger carrot puree and a curry powder. Also served with slightly stewed apricots. Omg delish. Athena chose octopus on polenta.

    Our boat trip is tomorrow, so we went down to the harbour. I walked down to check it out. Couldn't find them. I sent them an email confirming our attendance, however thunderstorms are predicted for the rest of the week so they may cancel yet. Today may have been our only day of sunshine ☀

    The sun is setting at 8.30pm and I watch the little pastel towns begin to glow. Truly magical. You need to come here and experience the yesteryear of this place.

    Athena is tired and wants to go back to the hotel. She has a nap at 8.00, and is still sleeping. I am wide awake at midnight enjoying the ambience outside, cooler now at 23 degrees, and chilling out as I write my blog. Will head off to bed soon. Xx    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    Day 7

    Walking the Cinque Terre trail

    August 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We head off in our gym gear at 11.30am to find the start of the Cinque Terre trail.
    I am so pumped for this.

    Through the tunnel up the hill and off from Monterosso we go.

    Except,

    Athena stops at some steep downward steps.
    She tells me she can't do it.
    She is afraid of heights.

    (As this is not the first time Athena has pulled out at the last minute on me, due to her fear, whilst adventuring, I say ok I will see you at the hotel. and I simply turn around and just keep walking)

    I did look back to check if she made it down the steps. And sure enough she had. I walk back and ask are you coming then, she says yes.

    Off we go, I am so excited, the first part is very steep, lots of steps, straight up. A good glutes workout.

    However, our adventure turned out to be very slow going.

    So what is mean't to be a 1.5 hour trek turned out for us to be a 4. 5 hour trek.

    That woman was a mess. Shaking. She clung to the rock walls and the shrubbery like her life depended on it.

    In the end she clung to my hand or arm or top whenever the skinny path became open. She never once looked out at the glorious view.

    I did just wanted to walk freely, but was not allowed to just leave her stranded.

    The track was beautiful. Very steep with stone steps along the way. Thin pathways, enough for one person to get through.

    People were walking dogs, one lady had her baby strapped to her back. The walk was easy once you got up higher. The ocean to our right heading to Vernazza would pop out you.
    I'd say 'wow Athena, look at that' but no dice.

    As we went so slowly, I never even broke a sweat.

    We walked through vineyards, between rock walls, over bridges with waterfalls.
    A cat sanctuary sits in the middle for homeless cats. I was sad here.

    4 hours walking a difficult trail in the heat, whilst 'pulling' someone along whom is scared to death, now that deserves a bourban at the end.

    Many hikers passed us. and we would ask how much further. They would tell us 30 mins, which for us translated to 2hrs.

    Honestly, with Athena wearing dark sunnies, it looked like I was leading a blind person over the trail.

    After much trial. We hear the noise of people from the town.

    And the view of Vernazza, is before us.
    HELLO VERNAZZA!!! You beautiful thing xx

    I would walk this trail again, anytime. Even with Athena xx    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    Day 7

    Vernazza

    August 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We finally get to Vernazza at
    4.20pm.

    It took us 4hrs 50mins.
    It is supposed to take 1.5hrs. (the lesson learnt is do not take Athena hiking on cliff sides)

    Vernazza is beautiful.

    We enter via a steep stepped alley into the small square. It is filled with sounds of diners, swimmers, and languages galore.

    The umbrellas are as colourful as the pastel pink buildings. Mature Italian men sit together in discussion.

    I grab a prosciutto panini and a coke.
    Athena smells the ham, and gets one too. More bread!

    The church bells ring out on the hour and half hr. A little tourist shopping and then we watch the boat disembark with the hoards.

    We go into the church and I go up to the castle.

    I thought a bourban sounds good so into a bar we pop.
    Whilst I pay, Athena suddenly goes into major panic mode rummaging through her bag. She has lost her purse.
    I look at the barman and think hurry up and hand me that drink would you!!!
    I looked on the bar and see a black wallet.
    Is this your purse?
    Yes.

    We catch the train back to Monterosso for dinner at La Cantina on the beach. For me scallopine veal in vino. Athena chose grilled prawns.

    Next to us a man had putinesco in a nut sauce, which made me drool, so I ordered that too!!!!

    On the walk to our room, we grab a limone gelato, before bed because we can 🍦    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    Day 8

    Angelos boat tours

    August 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We start the day by wandering around Monterosso old town.
    I buy a pot holder with anchovies on it.
    (the little blue fishies look cute)

    Walk into the striped church which displayed photos of major flooding. Another gelato.

    At 12.00 we met Linda, the host, and Alessandro, the driver, at the harbour. We boarded with eight others. On a little fishing boat. And chugged along.

    I warmed to Linda straight away. She put on some great music and popped the prosecco.
    George Michael's 'Freedom 90' playing loudly made me bop away. Now this is my kind of boat ride.

    We were chatting to the others and then turned around to face wonderful Vernazza. Gorgeous colours.

    Linda spread food out before us. Olives, focccia, pesto, cheeses, salami, all so yum. She kept pouring the wine and I loved everything.

    We anchored for a paddle next to the cliffs. Snorkel and noodle in hand. I jump off the boat and it is glorious. This water is amazing to swim in. Not cold at all. Very salty.

    Everyone comments and one suggests to bring the tequila next time.

    Athena remains on the boat not willing to go into deep water. Me, I was like a kid and jumped off the boat with a big splash 💦.

    All the swimmers just floated and we all chatted. From Ireland, Canada, Seattle. One 50yr old woman with her daughter said she wants to go to Melbourne as hears it is one of the most liveable cities.

    She is a massive fan of the TV show Offspring. And let me tell you she is talking to the right person. Nina Proudman, Billy and Patrick are discussed. When in the water we all chat so freely and openly.

    One of the ladies says she reckons my blog will be funny because I am funny. Yay!
    I just said 'just keeping it real'

    A storm approaches and wind and rain swell. But I am drunk and don't care at all.

    This boat tour is really personable. Highly recommend. Really, just do it.

    When the trip is over, I am toast. I high five all and wobble off the boat. We head back and rest for an hour. Me to blog and Athena to (definately not sleep 😴)!    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    2
    11
    Day 8

    Manarola for dinner

    August 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After the boat trip we got changed. I wanted to see Manarolo.
    We caught the train and ended up at La Spezia station 🚉 in error. Caught train back to Riomaggiore. Off the train, walked down a long tunnel to the mariner.

    Riomaggiore is a steep skinny fishing town. A quick look around we found it too touristy and not enough restaurants so we caught a 4min train to the next town Manarolo.

    Manarolo is a pretty town. Walking through the back streets toward the bridge at the front.

    It was nightime with twinkling lights everywhere lending a magical atmosphere.

    I wanted to sit and eat at a restaurant looking out at the little bay below us. So we hopped in line. A short wait and were ushered to our seats. I enjoyed the pesto Gnocchi and barbecued prawns. Our waitress was attentive and fast.

    A group of men possibly on an Italian bucks night were making their way up thru the township singing. It was like a mini festival. They were all wearing calamari sunglasses! 😎

    We enjoyed a slow walk back to our precious hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    Day 9

    Milan

    August 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Caught early train with a 5.00 wake up.
    2.5 hrs to Milan.

    At Milan we have a 'Best of Milan plus The Last Supper Tour' booked at 10:45am
    Our train gets in at 10:00. We struggle to locate the luggage drop off point as it is 3 floors below us. Grab a Taxi with a rally driver!!

    We make it perfectly on time. Eleana is our guide. She is colourful and cute. Earpieces in we begin with the famous Duomo.

    We walk the streets stopping at various buildings and statues. I like the one of Leonardo. We look up at the glass ceiling of the Victor Emmanuel shops surrounded by Prada, Versace, Lois Vuitton and it is all beautiful.

    The Sforsesco castle is amazing. Very old with a massive moat. Very hot today, I slurp on an icypole.

    We head to the church Santa Maria Delle Grazie where the Last Supper is painted on a wall in a room where the Monks would eat their meals.

    I took out my earpiece and sat still. Only small groups are allowed in for 15 minutes.
    The painting is well worn but still colourful. Many restorations have been done.

    All I know about the story is that Jesus and his disciples had just discovered that someone has betrayed Jesus and they were discussing whom it could be.

    Tour finished, we hail a cab to catch our 1.5hr train to Como.

    We are squished on the train and Athena has to hold our cases as they go rolling away on every turn!

    We arrive at Como and it is bustling with people and cars.
    We both wish we had booked more days in Monterosso as it was heavenly quiet.    Read more

  • TravelerLearning To Swim
    1112
    Day 10

    Como to Belaggio

    August 26, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Walking up in Como with a view of the lake is devine. Our first hot breakfast of bacon and eggs.

    We book a hydrofoil to Bellagio.
    45 minutes at 14.00 euro.
    I spot George Clooney's villa Oleandra. His speedboat is parked out front.

    We embark at Bellagio. It is small and quaint and much quieter than Como.

    Lunch is at a restaurant called Suisse on the waterfront. Another chardy another onion soup.

    We walk through the streets, up steep cobblestone walkways with shops on each side.

    I buy a little hand fan. We sit in the shady gardens overlooking the lake in the coolness as it is very warm today.

    We head toward Villa Melzi and we are lucky to find it open until 6.30. It is 5pm. So a wander around the botanic gardens with species of trees and plants from all over the world. The main villa is closed but we walk through the family chapel and museum.

    On our map it shows WC which I am in need of, so I tell Athena I am looking for the water closet. I come back all happy 😊 it is then that she learns that I went to the Loo. Well off she went herself.

    Enjoying my leisurely stroll, next minute I roll my ankle for the 3rd time on this trip. Almost fall down the hill. I expected Athena to be laughing but she looked horrified.

    We come out of the Villa exactly on gate closing time. Walk back to the town and we find out the ferry does not go to Como and are told to take the bus. I thought that is ridiculous. We walk further up to the little Port and walk straight on a Hydrofoil. Which zooms us home across the water. Athena nearly falls asleep on the boat so we head up to our room for a nap.

    At 9.30pm, we decide to get dinner otherwise we will wake at midnight starving.
    I had the home made spaghetti with seafood. God it was good. Then off to bed.    Read more

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