Ukraine
L’vivs’ka Oblast’

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    • Day 3

      Mit Speck fängt man Mäuse :)

      October 13, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      ...
      Lemberg.
      UNESCO Weltkulturerbe. Trotzdem keine Puppenstube. Der Prozess der Disneyfizierung, wie er in New York, Dresden, beispielsweise erfolgt, bleibt hier noch aus.
      Lemberg eine Stadt mit Erinnerung und ja hoher Verletzlichkeit.
      Es zerfällt. Die Innenstadt mit wenigTouristen. Die Geschichte intensiv und nachhaltig. Immerhin traf es 160.000 Juden... Und eine Masse an Zwangsumsiedlung.

      Das Leben ist jung und doch verhalten.

      Wir sitzen auf Treppen, genießen den Wein, den Kaffee, die Demut und Resilienz. Wissen um die Erinnerung. Und genießen den Speck vom Markt.

      PS: Was auf Kishi nicht klappt, klappt hier.
      PPS: Sauerkirschen eingelegt. Das gab es schon vor 30Jahren.
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    • Day 162

      Abenteuer Ukraine

      October 9, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Unser Abenteuer beginnt noch vor Grenzüberschreitung, weil die Fahrzeugkolonne gefühlt 100km lang ist (das ist leicht übertrieben für die, die Mühe haben Sarkasmus zu erkennen 😉). Wir haben Glück und dürfen als Touristen die Schlange skippen und so warten wir nur 1h ander Grenze und dann sind wir plötzlich in der Ukraine!

      Es ist bereits dunkel als wir in Lviv oder Lemberg eintreffen. Wir parken mitten in der Stadt auf einem Parkplatz, auf dem man übernachten darf und der auch ein Toitoi hat (Yay👏🏼). Wir sehen uns die Stadt an, unterhalten uns mit ukrainischen Restaurantbesitzer, verbringen einen lustigen Abend mit einem Teil der Free Walking Tour Gruppe und stürzen uns kurzzeitig in das Nachtleben. Man merke sich: wer Vodka trinkt, kauft den Kater gleich mit😅 oder wie Agńes es sagte: „drinking is like borrowing happiness from tomorrow“

      Fazit: Lviv ist eine überaus schöne Stadt, die eine spannende Geschichte in sich trägt. Der Vibe ist sehr entspannt, sie sind stolze Bürger und ihre Lieblingsbeschäftigung ist Kaffeetrinken😊
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    • Day 164

      Auf dem Land...

      October 11, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      ...da sind die Bedingungen etwas anders😅 da spricht kaum jemand mehr Englisch, die Strassen sind in einem sehr löchrigen Zustand und die Verkehrsregeln scheinen wohl niemanden zu interessieren. Unser Tag beginnt damit neben einer Mülldeponie zu frühstücken (yup das war unser Schlafplatz, wirklich toll ausgesucht haben wir diesen😂 ). Fairerweise muss man sagen, dass die Anfahrt aufgrund eines sehr, sehr, sehr langen Stauus (hier übertreibe ich nicht!) dazu geführt hat, dass wir erst bei Dunkelheit ankamen. Getoppt wird das Ganze dadurch, dass wir eine alte Frau mitnehmen über ca 30 Minuten und dann noch um Geld gefragt werden. Hier herrscht wahrhaftig anderes Klima und man wird sich seinem privilegiertem Leben wieder einmal mehr bewusst.

      Mission today: Duschen !!! 😄 (Arjen’s Bettfrisur ist nicht mehr zu retten)
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    • Day 4

      Widersprüche in Galizien

      October 14, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Pünktlich 9 Uhr satteln wir den Bus, schärfen den Zoom der Karte und fahren nach Drohobych.
      Das Ländle von Bruno Schulz.

      Hier stehen jung und alt vor der Kirche, weil keiner mehr rein passt.
      Ist das Zentrum fad und die Hokzkirche zeigt keinen Millimeter unbemalt. Hier sind Nebenstraßen geteert und Hauptstraßen geschottert.
      Hier endet sogar die Kartenlesekompetenz von Geographen.
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    • Day 4

      Industriegelb in Boryslav

      October 14, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Berthold Beitz heißt der Retter hunderter Juden und Deportierten indem sie in Boryslav Erdöl förderten. Auf dessen Spuren fuhren wir auf Nebenstraßen, beobachteten die Menschen die den Feiertag "Verteidigung des Vaterlandes" gemeinsam auf den Straßen verbrachten.
      Kirchbesuche. Hollywoodschaukel. Picknick.
      Wir blieben auf den Nebenstraßen, immerhin brauchte man auch hier für 48km, 1Stunde Fahrzeit.
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    • Yes! Women are strong!

      August 2, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Seitdem ich in der Ukraine bin, ist da noch viel mehr das Gefühl, dass mein Inneres sich ein wenig reckt und streckt, um über meine Mäuerchen drüberzugucken. Einfach mal machen, nicht so viel mit mir rumdiskutieren. Fühlt sich gut und frei an.

      Es ginge auch nicht anders, man ist hier nicht gerade auf ausgetretenen Pfaden des internationalen Tourismus unterwegs. Auch Polen oder Slowaken zieht’s kaum über die Grenze.

      Ausgenommen Lviv, wo ich noch übers Wochenende bleibe - die Stadt verdient ihren eigenen kleinen Beitrag, möchte nur meine Reise bis hierher und den Sonntag in der Ukraine nicht unterschlagen...

      Die langgezogenen Straßendörfer mit bröckelnden Fassaden und frischgeputzten Fenstern, die unzähligen Kirchen mit den Golddächern, die aussehen wie aus einer anderen Welt dort abgestellt. Die braunen Sonntagsanzüge und die Spitzenkopftücher, die am Glockenseil baumelnden Messdiener, die schnapsseeligen Männerversammlungen vor jedem ‚Magazin‘, das volle Programm eben, inklusive Hühnern, Ziegen und Pferdekutschen (selten, aber doch). Die Hunde waren bei der Hitze zu träge für Verfolgungsjagden.

      Die erstmal oft skeptischen Gesichter der Frauen auf den Bänken vor den Zäunen vor den Häusern. Ich glaube, hier wird es den Menschen langsam befremdlicher, dass ich allein unterwegs bin. Und überhaupt, ich auf meinem Rad, das mehr gekostet hat als ein ukrainisches Durchschnittsjahreseinkommen...

      Tipp zur Erheiterung des Auditoriums: Einfach mal so tun, als sei man getroffen und kippe vom Rad, wenn ein kleiner Plastikgewehr-Heckenschütze einen anvisiert. Da schmunzelt zumindest auch Opa auf der Bank. Erziehung zum Pazifismus steht in einem Land, das sich im Krieg befindet, wohl nicht zwangsläufig hoch im Kurs. Hier und da sind an den Ortseingängen große Banner mit Fotos der getöteten Soldaten aufgestellt. Keine verwitterten Tafeln mit den Namen von Weltkriegstoten, sondern die Pass- oder Armeefotos von Männern, die zum Teil noch in den Windeln lagen, als ich gerade Abi gemacht habe.

      Fast gegenüber jeder Bushaltestelle steht eine kleine Kapelle - und wenn man sich die Busse so anschaut, kann man auch das verstehen. Und die Straßen... bis ganz unvermutet, nach einer weiteren inländischen Passkontrolle (auf dem Pass, wie passend), wie von einer guten Fahrradfee hingezaubert eine aalglatte nagelneue Asphaltbahn begann, sich durch die Hügel Richtung Lviv zu schlängeln. Yeah!

      Bei all den Eindrücken wird mir klar, wie wenig ich bislang in meinem Leben gesehen habe von der Welt. Und man kann sich gar nicht davor verschließen, wie gut es uns geht.

      Die Szene des Tages am Sonntag jedoch war, als ich den Uschok-Pass angegangen bin, und mir entgegen kam ein junges Paar in einem schicken westlichen Kleinwagen (sonst waren noch viele alte Ladas in allen Farben des Tuschkastens unterwegs). Er, am Steuer, schüttelte ein wenig schmunzelnd den Kopf, von wegen wie verrückt muss man sein, um hier bei über 30 Grad im Schatten mit dem Rad hochzukurbeln. Da reckte sie die geballte Faust aus dem Beifahrerinnenfenster und rief mir zu ‚Yes! Women are strong!‘. Stimmt.
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    • Day 14

      Last Workshops of the Tour!

      August 10, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      We have a busy festival schedule ahead of us so Tyler and I decided to get up a bit early to try to create a bit of spare time in our day. We had hotel breakfast and took a walk out to the market. The internet says the market opens at 8 AM. We arrived there around 8:45 but it was clear that the set up was just in its early stages. It was clear we couldn’t get any meaningful perusing done so we tottered back to the hotel and bought a lot of water on the way home for the days ahead.

      Before we knew it, it was time to hop on the bus to go to our Poltava workshops. They were run by the Poltava State Ensemble, the same group that performed at the opening ceremonies. We had two separate workshops that were each about one hour. The first workshop was in a basement dance studio. When we arrived, we could hear the tail end of the workshop before us (all the groups in the festival had staggered workshop times). I have no idea what group it was but Shane said the director was saying “pohanu” (terrible) and “uvohu” (be quiet). I was a bit nervous and expected the workshop to be very hard. As it turned out, the choreography we learned was reasonably simple. As a result, it was possible to watch the style of the actual Poltava dancers and really try to copy their body positioning. Another funny thing was that the director did not stand up once during the workshop; his dancers demonstrated and he shouted from a chair on a pedestal at the front. The good thing was he was usually saying “molotsi” (something like wonderful) so I guess we did pretty well.

      In a snap, it was upstairs to the stage for the second workshop. It was run by one of the Poltava ensemble senior dancers who had an epic moustache (see photo). Again the choreography was quite simple. The most interesting and difficult to execute part was this one dance where you had to deliberately sickle your feet. It has been so engrained into me from the age of three not to sickle ... it actually was physically painful to make my lower legs do that. They explained this move is supposed to mimic shaking something gross off your shoe. It was really interesting to try but I don’t think that particular style will be coming to Canadian stages anytime soon.

      The bus shuttled us back to our hotel but we decided not even to go upstairs to save time. We walked to a place called Burger & Meat for a quick lunch. The burgers were really good (I think Drew would have loved them). In keeping with most of this trip, we had just a tiny bit of spare time before needing to prepare for our show. It was ambitious, but Tyler and I decided to make a quick run to the market to look at the art and succeeded in buying a beautiful painting of a Ukrainian cottage that was painted by an artist in Lviv.

      (Rest of the day in a second post)

      Brooke
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    • Day 14

      Joryj Ktoc....Best Ukrainian Rock Band

      August 10, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      We booked it back to the hotel to get ready for our performance. We had left ourself a forty five minutes to finish makeup and get dressed. We had to be in our costumes already as we were walking to Rynok Square (one of the most iconic and picturesque parts of Lviv). It was about a fifteen minute walk to the outdoor performance. The stage was quite elevated compared to the audience and they had tent change rooms set up behind. Shortly after we arrived, I saw Marta in the crowd and beckoned to her. She came over and chatted (she speaks very quickly). Luckily Audrey was nearby and graciously helped to interpret. Marta wanted to take us to her house but we tried to explain it really won’t be possible... just about every minute is planned out until we leave.

      This performance was the first opportunity for all the participating groups to dance together in one show. I particularly enjoyed watching Zabutny from Regina; they had lovely costumes, intricate choreography and beautiful technique. We performed Buko, Trans, and Hutsul. When I was on the stage, it struck me just how beautiful out surroundings were. The stage was pretty hot, much like other sunny performances we’ve done.

      After the performance, we immediately had to go to our hotel to change clothes and go to the Zabava, the main party of the festival. It was held in an interesting setting - an old glass plant turned into a night club. There were hors d’oeuvres and vodka (which we decided to skip) and pretty shortly after we arrived, a band started playing. It was a bit too crowded (venue a bit too small for the number of people) but luckily there was a rooftop patio which was pretty cool. The patio wasn’t private to our group though. Tyler was definitely a bit of a papa bear, making sure no creepy men were hitting on our teenage dancers. The view was gorgeous but eventually we decided to go back to the main event.

      The band changed over to a pop singer. His name was Nazar, and he was a cooler version of Ihor Bohdan. Not bad to listen to but not our dancing style.

      Next was Joryj Ktoc and they were epic! Tyler came to grab me to show me that the band had a lira (Ukrainian instrument we mentioned in a previous post). It was amazing to watch and listen to! They were kind of a rock band but the sound was unique and I’m not sure it does it justice to just say rock band. It was so high energy (we were jumping up and down the whole time they played). It was so much fun! We bought their CD and got all four of the members to sign it. It’s made out to Broke and Tylir... close enough!

      Euphoria from Edmonton was the last band of the night. They were fabulous and we were thrilled to have a couple last polkas. Kolomeyka was at around midnight which was a bit too late. Tyler participated a little bit but I just watched.

      After kolomeyka, our contingent left for the bus. There were about ten of us that had stayed til the end of the party and I’m really glad we did.

      It was such a fun and varied day between a workshop, a performance, and the zabava!

      We are getting pretty exhausted but we have to keep the energy up to make the most of these last busy days in Lviv!

      Brooke
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    • Day 13

      Beautiful Lviv

      August 9, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      This morning we woke up and had to pack up all the costumes and our luggage again. Not going to lie, we went to bed late and didn't get enough sleep, plus I have definitely felt better on other mornings. Brooke was perfectly fine, I think she was faking some of the vodka toasts last night.

      Quick breakfast, checked out, and then loaded up the bus for the last time. Bus call had been pushed back by an hour to give everyone some more rest, but that means it will cut into our market shopping time in Lviv. The bus ride was about 2 1/2 hours, Brooke had a solid nap pretty much the whole time.

      We arrived in Lviv and immediately from just driving around on the bus I could tell that this is a beautiful city. We arrived at Hotel Lviv and had lunch prior to unloading the bus and checking in. The room we have is massive and actually has two single beds pushed together plus an extra bonus bed for some reason! We quickly dumped our bags, freshened up, and headed out to find the market and do some shopping!

      We headed out with some friends and a rough idea of directions. Walked toward the Lviv Opera House which is a beautiful building and one of the main sights to see (and we have the potential of performing there in a few days). The market was just a block away from here.

      This market was more in an open area compared to Yaremcha and it just has all of the vendors sitting in their staked out spot. The vendors range from Ukrainian shirts to art paintings, typical souvenirs, and what looked like random junk people were selling from their basement. We did a lap to get a sense of what was all available and then settled in to look at the handmade Ukrainian shirts/blouses more closely.

      The detailed embroidery of these shirts were stunning. We spent a lot of time looking through what each lady had and ended up finding some great purchases. What was neat was that when these ladies are not trying to sell a shirt, they are all just sitting at their spot and working on the embroidery of their next item. Very cool to stand back and watch for a moment.

      After a while we left the market to go check out a couple of actual shops on the main road. At this point I was starting to get quite hungry and we wouldn't be eating for another 4 hours, so we made an emergency stop at McDonald's. I tried a burger that looked most interesting and that I could point to. Brown bread for the bun and I think the patties were pork, so very successful in trying something new at a foreign McD's.

      Once finished we took another gander at the market for gift ideas but didn't have any luck so we headed back to our hotel to regroup for 20 minutes. I lied down and could have napped hard, but right when I was nearly out, Brooke said it was time to get moving again (tour song should be "I'm In a Hurry to Get Things Done").

      We are actually in Lviv for the International Ukrainian Dance & Culture Festival and today was the opening ceremony. There are lots of other ukrainian dance groups here, lots from Canada and even one from Brazil. We were bussed to a theatre, seated, and waited a while for it to start. There was an opening speech from Vince Reese (founder of Cobblestone Freeway) and then we were treated to an unexpected full performance by the Poltava Ensemble. This was a full show of predominantly Ukrainian singing with a small storyline threaded and a bit of dancing every once in a while. We both really wish we had been able to understand the lyrics and the storyline. I think it had something to do with one family didn't want their daughter to marry the son of another family, but then there was a gift of a horse, everyone was happy and they had a wedding. I was also fighting sleep for part of it due to the dark theatre without air conditioning and staying up the night before.

      When the show was done, we were bussed back to the hotel and then a small group of us set off to find some dinner. We took a recommendation from Kim and Kristen and went to Cosa Nostra for Italian food. Initially we were seated inside and it was incredibly warm and stifling in there. Jordan looked like he was 4 minutes away from a Tyler-type meltdown. Luckily a table opened up on the patio that we were able to fit 5 people into and we were able to enjoy the evening outside and people watch.

      For an appetizer we had a beautifully presented charcuterie platter of cheese, salami, butter coated in poppyseeds, sesame seeds, and chili flakes, and prosciutto wrapped breadsticks all on a turn table that made it extra fun to eat. Dinner we shared a caesar salad and then Brooke had a gnocchi bolognese and I had a rabbit ravioli.

      To finish off the night we went to a must-do bar/restaurant called Kryivka. The restaurant is situated in the basement of a building and is dressed up to look like an old military bunker. You are greeted by an old Ukrainian man at the front door who says "Slava Ukraini" and you respond with "Heroiam Slava", then he says "Death to Russians"and you have to do a shot before going downstairs. There are old-school Ukrainian military advertisements and equipment on all of the walls. We shared a beer with some of the dancers and Shane. It was really cool to experience and I'm glad we were able to fit it in. Afterwards we went back to the hotel to get some much needed sleep.

      Tyler
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    • Day 3

      Unterwegs nach Welyki Birky

      July 29, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      525 Kilometer, 11,5 Stunden, Einreisekosten: 0,35 €

      Bei dem Verkehr wurden Erinnerungen an den letzten Urlaub wach. Auf der Straße geht es ab jetzt wieder rasant und viel zu schnell weiter. Innerorts fährt man schon mal 100 km/h und übt schon fleißig daran sich nahtlos in den ukrainischen Verkehr einzufügen.
      Leider mussten wir auch an einem wahrscheinlich tödlichen Unfall vorbei fahren. Bei diesem Anblick waren wir geschockt.

      Am Ende des Tages sollten wir Anni's Bekannte in der Nähe von Ternopil erreichen. Die Sprachprobleme und die horrenden Roaming Gebühren von 4,50€ pro Minute machten alles nicht so einfach.
      Gegen 22:30 Uhr ukrainischer Zeit (+1 Stunde) erreichten wir unser Ziel. Glücklicherweise suchten uns unsere Gastgeber und wir trafen uns auf der Straße vor dem Haus. Was für ein Zufall!
      Nach einem köstlichen Mahl und einer dringend nötigen Dusche erwartete uns eine unausschlagbare Nacht im bequemen Bett.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    L’vivs’ka Oblast’, L'vivs'ka Oblast', Oblast de Lviv, Львовская область, Львівська Область

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