Ukraine
L’vivs’ka Oblast’

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    • Day 14

      Last Workshops of the Tour!

      August 10, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      We have a busy festival schedule ahead of us so Tyler and I decided to get up a bit early to try to create a bit of spare time in our day. We had hotel breakfast and took a walk out to the market. The internet says the market opens at 8 AM. We arrived there around 8:45 but it was clear that the set up was just in its early stages. It was clear we couldn’t get any meaningful perusing done so we tottered back to the hotel and bought a lot of water on the way home for the days ahead.

      Before we knew it, it was time to hop on the bus to go to our Poltava workshops. They were run by the Poltava State Ensemble, the same group that performed at the opening ceremonies. We had two separate workshops that were each about one hour. The first workshop was in a basement dance studio. When we arrived, we could hear the tail end of the workshop before us (all the groups in the festival had staggered workshop times). I have no idea what group it was but Shane said the director was saying “pohanu” (terrible) and “uvohu” (be quiet). I was a bit nervous and expected the workshop to be very hard. As it turned out, the choreography we learned was reasonably simple. As a result, it was possible to watch the style of the actual Poltava dancers and really try to copy their body positioning. Another funny thing was that the director did not stand up once during the workshop; his dancers demonstrated and he shouted from a chair on a pedestal at the front. The good thing was he was usually saying “molotsi” (something like wonderful) so I guess we did pretty well.

      In a snap, it was upstairs to the stage for the second workshop. It was run by one of the Poltava ensemble senior dancers who had an epic moustache (see photo). Again the choreography was quite simple. The most interesting and difficult to execute part was this one dance where you had to deliberately sickle your feet. It has been so engrained into me from the age of three not to sickle ... it actually was physically painful to make my lower legs do that. They explained this move is supposed to mimic shaking something gross off your shoe. It was really interesting to try but I don’t think that particular style will be coming to Canadian stages anytime soon.

      The bus shuttled us back to our hotel but we decided not even to go upstairs to save time. We walked to a place called Burger & Meat for a quick lunch. The burgers were really good (I think Drew would have loved them). In keeping with most of this trip, we had just a tiny bit of spare time before needing to prepare for our show. It was ambitious, but Tyler and I decided to make a quick run to the market to look at the art and succeeded in buying a beautiful painting of a Ukrainian cottage that was painted by an artist in Lviv.

      (Rest of the day in a second post)

      Brooke
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    • Day 14

      Joryj Ktoc....Best Ukrainian Rock Band

      August 10, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      We booked it back to the hotel to get ready for our performance. We had left ourself a forty five minutes to finish makeup and get dressed. We had to be in our costumes already as we were walking to Rynok Square (one of the most iconic and picturesque parts of Lviv). It was about a fifteen minute walk to the outdoor performance. The stage was quite elevated compared to the audience and they had tent change rooms set up behind. Shortly after we arrived, I saw Marta in the crowd and beckoned to her. She came over and chatted (she speaks very quickly). Luckily Audrey was nearby and graciously helped to interpret. Marta wanted to take us to her house but we tried to explain it really won’t be possible... just about every minute is planned out until we leave.

      This performance was the first opportunity for all the participating groups to dance together in one show. I particularly enjoyed watching Zabutny from Regina; they had lovely costumes, intricate choreography and beautiful technique. We performed Buko, Trans, and Hutsul. When I was on the stage, it struck me just how beautiful out surroundings were. The stage was pretty hot, much like other sunny performances we’ve done.

      After the performance, we immediately had to go to our hotel to change clothes and go to the Zabava, the main party of the festival. It was held in an interesting setting - an old glass plant turned into a night club. There were hors d’oeuvres and vodka (which we decided to skip) and pretty shortly after we arrived, a band started playing. It was a bit too crowded (venue a bit too small for the number of people) but luckily there was a rooftop patio which was pretty cool. The patio wasn’t private to our group though. Tyler was definitely a bit of a papa bear, making sure no creepy men were hitting on our teenage dancers. The view was gorgeous but eventually we decided to go back to the main event.

      The band changed over to a pop singer. His name was Nazar, and he was a cooler version of Ihor Bohdan. Not bad to listen to but not our dancing style.

      Next was Joryj Ktoc and they were epic! Tyler came to grab me to show me that the band had a lira (Ukrainian instrument we mentioned in a previous post). It was amazing to watch and listen to! They were kind of a rock band but the sound was unique and I’m not sure it does it justice to just say rock band. It was so high energy (we were jumping up and down the whole time they played). It was so much fun! We bought their CD and got all four of the members to sign it. It’s made out to Broke and Tylir... close enough!

      Euphoria from Edmonton was the last band of the night. They were fabulous and we were thrilled to have a couple last polkas. Kolomeyka was at around midnight which was a bit too late. Tyler participated a little bit but I just watched.

      After kolomeyka, our contingent left for the bus. There were about ten of us that had stayed til the end of the party and I’m really glad we did.

      It was such a fun and varied day between a workshop, a performance, and the zabava!

      We are getting pretty exhausted but we have to keep the energy up to make the most of these last busy days in Lviv!

      Brooke
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    • Day 3

      Unterwegs nach Welyki Birky

      July 29, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      525 Kilometer, 11,5 Stunden, Einreisekosten: 0,35 €

      Bei dem Verkehr wurden Erinnerungen an den letzten Urlaub wach. Auf der Straße geht es ab jetzt wieder rasant und viel zu schnell weiter. Innerorts fährt man schon mal 100 km/h und übt schon fleißig daran sich nahtlos in den ukrainischen Verkehr einzufügen.
      Leider mussten wir auch an einem wahrscheinlich tödlichen Unfall vorbei fahren. Bei diesem Anblick waren wir geschockt.

      Am Ende des Tages sollten wir Anni's Bekannte in der Nähe von Ternopil erreichen. Die Sprachprobleme und die horrenden Roaming Gebühren von 4,50€ pro Minute machten alles nicht so einfach.
      Gegen 22:30 Uhr ukrainischer Zeit (+1 Stunde) erreichten wir unser Ziel. Glücklicherweise suchten uns unsere Gastgeber und wir trafen uns auf der Straße vor dem Haus. Was für ein Zufall!
      Nach einem köstlichen Mahl und einer dringend nötigen Dusche erwartete uns eine unausschlagbare Nacht im bequemen Bett.
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    • Day 15

      Emotions Starting To Get To Us

      August 11, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      This morning we slept in til just after 8 AM. The schedule for the day involves a parade and then we will be bussed off to our second performance of the festival, so it was good to get some extra sleep. We had breakfast downstairs in the hotel with Emma and then back up to get ready. Again had to be dressed in full costume for this parade, so we were geared up in Hopak along with bringing everything else we needed for the day (separate costume and change of clothes). Luckily we could load up the bus with our extra stuff and then it was a short walk to the start of the parade.

      We congregated in front of the Opera House and then proceeded to wait, in the hot sun....in full costume. It is definitely an international dance festival because they have the hurry-up-and-wait part figured out. After about 20 minutes, they lined us into position and then the parade started shortly after. The parade was from the Lviv Opera House to the Taras Shevchenko monument which wasn't really that far, probably less than a km. Once there, all the groups lined up, there was a flower laying ceremony, and some sort of speech. We took a group picture at the end and it looked like it turned out well. Immediately after we loaded up onto the bus to head to Shevchenkivskyi Hai where we would be performing next.

      Shevchenkivskyi Hai is an outdoor old-style Ukrainian village type attraction. Think like the Ukrainian Village east of Edmonton. It is very spread out and rolling walking paths. What that meant is the bus could only go so far and then we had to schlep our costumes all the way in. Plus keep in mind we are still in Hopak costume with boots on. Plus plus - it rained overnight last night and the path in was still wet soil in spots. Wish we had known the length of the walk so we could change our footwear on the bus.

      We get to the stage and change area. The stage is covered and the audience seating is built in and permanent into the hill. Sort of like a mini-Dauphin stage. The change tents were right behind the stage and were a built up wooden floor. This was lucky because all around our tent was grass, which was also wet from the rain and muddy/squishy in some spots. Exactly what you want for dance costumes and boots.

      We changed out of costume and into street clothes so we could go eat lunch. Walked over to the outdoor area where we were going to eat and had to wait another 20 to 30 minutes for everything to get set up. Lots of people were starting to get to the point of crankiness, Brooke especially who was getting hangry about getting her boots a bit wet. Nathan and I being the positive people we tried to cheer everyone up with a song......I don't think it worked, mainly due to the fact that we got told to shut up for being too load.

      We had lunch in a fenced off part of the village. The food was a stew, cabbage salad, bread with salo, and fresh fruit. There was also limited space to eat as there were 4 cocktail tables in a small grassy area and some bench seating on the side. Nathan and I sat in a makeshift yurt (bench under a covered area). I actually really enjoyed lunch, it was quite tasty and the fresh apricots were a welcome addition.

      After lunch we changed back into Hopak, not to perform yet, but to walk further and do a photoshoot. This time we had the good sense to walk in our sandals and change footwear later. We initially lined up for one of the festival photographers who set us up in a very weird way. It didn't make sense what he was doing and apparently the pictures didn't work out at all. Immediately after we ditched that guy, stepped into the sunlight in a grassy area, and then we banged out a great photo with our actual photographer. Afterwards we walked even further to find a nice scenery to take a nice vignette photo with a great backdrop.

      It was then time to get prepared for this show. We were performing Hopak, Hutsul, and one Junior dance. I was legit concerned about having enough space to warm up due to the wet grassy area around us. Luckily the festival laid down some tarps so we could have access to the stage and then we realized that stage right had an actual full stone path. Perfect! Was able to properly warm up as best as can be expected.

      This performance is actually an "adjudicated" show to determine what gets into the gala performance tomorrow at the opera house. I'm not sure if it actually means that some groups won't get in, or more so it determines how many and which dances we perform. I made the joke of whether or not they would have a bell to ding before we go on. Our actual performance went very well, the energy on stage was really strong, and the reaction from the crowd was great. In true fashion, I was last out of the change room again and was just dripping with sweat.

      We then hauled everything back up the path to the bus. Some of the girls used up some coupons for carrying their stuff or a free ice cream, I think Jordan got the worst of it. Once we got on the bus Shane grabbed our attention and let us know that the feedback was very positive and they were very impressed with our performance and our technical skill. Shane then let us know that one Junior dance, Hutsul, and Hopak will be performed in the gala show tomorrow! We get to dance in the Lviv Opera House!

      Once we got back to the hotel we had to fully unload the bus as this was the last time we would see it. Bye bus, we had some good times! Next it was time to do an initial pack of all the costumes we didn't need anymore. We all met up on the 5th floor elevator lobby and then started sorting, rolling, and packing. It didn't take too long and then it was time for a quick shower before dinner.

      We headed out for dinner with Nathan, Audrey, Jordan, Christine, and Joren. My random suggestion was to go to a restaurant where I saw pumpjacks on the outside. Christine started polling the group for what they were hungry for and looked at Google Maps. She found a restaurant that one of guides had suggested and also had sizzling pans of meat. Turns out it was the pumpjack restaurant that I wanted to go to, so bonus!

      The restaurant was called Gas Lamp and has a science / historic oil theme to it. There were hundreds and hundreds of gas lamps as decorations inside and the restaurant had 5 levels with a very narrow staircase throughout. There was even a red light green light system to direct traffic up and down.

      The drink menu had a section called Chemical Experiements, basically their selection of different cocktails. We interpreted that you could actually sample each one and the drinks came in a rack of test tubes! It was fun to try them and not know what to expect for flavor. Some were really good, some we didn't finish. For an appetizer Brooke shared a pickle tray with Audrey that had red cabbage and pickled vegetables and I had spicy meatballs. Dinner I had a spiced pork sausage and Brooke had a braised beef with legit horseradish ice cream.

      After dinner we wandered over to П'яна Вишна (drunk cherry) to have a famous cherry wine. Bought a bottle to share amongst the 7 of us and stood outside on the street and drank it in the provided glass tumblers. Brooke really wanted to bring a bottle home so she purchased one in a decorative hard tube. Packing is going to be fun tomorrow.....

      We then walked back to Rynok Square. A couple of the guys decided to go for a beer at Pravda, local craft beer. The rest of us went shopping to souvenir stores around the square. At one point we got separated and it was Nathan, Brooke, and myself as a small group. We went back into Kryvika (Ukrainian bunker restaurant) to go to the souvenir shop but diverted downstairs to walk it through again. Realized there was a separate section outside where you could climb 5 flights of stairs to the roof where there was an anti-aircraft cannon that you could sit in and fully rotate. Super cool!

      Shortly after, we headed back to the hotel as it was time for bed and we have our last performance tomorrow.

      Tyler
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    • Day 3

      Kirschkernspucken bis zum Himmel

      October 13, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      ... Wir laufen zum Himmel.
      Noch immer scheint der Altersdurchschnitt unter dem unsren zu liegen. Junge Menschen drängen sich auf den 350 Holzstufen nach oben. Ohne Rücksicht.
      Die Fassaden sprechen was anderes. Alt, verbraucht, vergangen, eng, welk und trotzdem modern.
      Wir sitzen am Tresen, im Zentrum, mitten im ukrainischen Mainstream, genießen die Sommerzeit und den Malz.

      Während auf den Straßen junge Menschen sind. Sitzen die erfahrenen betagten Ukrainer in der Kirche.
      Erstaunlich auffällig dieser "Spalt". Während des Gottesdienst schauen wir in diese betagten Gesichter, umschmeichelt von Hüten und Kopftüchern. Sie sind erfahren, verletzlich, allein, und solidarisch gehen sie miteinander um.

      Mich erinnert es an vor 30 Jahren.
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    • Day 6

      Station #3: Lviv, Ukraine

      March 8, 2020 in Ukraine ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Dobrideny liebe Freunde und Freundinnen! Oder für Kenner: Добридень!
      Während unsere bisherigen Stopps in Polen uns doch teilweise noch sehr an Deutschland erinnerten, waren wir in der Ukraine nun definitiv weit von unserem Heimatland entfernt. Diesen Eindruck vermittelten nicht zuletzt alle Beschriftungen in der Landessprache, die nicht mal mehr unsere Buchstaben verwendet!
      Lviv, zu Deutsch Lemberg. Stadt der Löwen, des Kaffees, Biers und Kirschlikörs. In der abermals wunderschönen Altstadt konnten wir zwei Tage lang genüsslich rumtigern, Borschtsch verspeisen und über die doch eng mit Deutschland verknüpfte Geschichte der Stadt erfahren. Und auch die Weiterreise sollte zum Erlebnis werden: Den Weg nach Rumänien nahmen wir des Nachts im Schlafabteil unseres ukrainischen Hogwarts Expresses.
      Wir hören uns in Rumänien. Buvay!
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    • Day 2

      Lvov

      August 18, 2017 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Tak jsme se dočkali. Po 5 a půl hodinách strávených na hranicích jsme kolem 10:30 místního času přijeli do Lvova (pozn. Ukrajina je v jiném časovém pásmu... Mají oproti nám o hodinu víc).

      Naše první cesta vedla do úschovy zavazadel, kde jsme nechali velké batohy, a pak na snídani. Dali jsme si čiburieky - smažené kapsy plněné různými směsmi, my měli masovou. K tomu soljanku - polívku a kvas - kvašený místní mírně alkoholický nápoj.

      Pak jsme se vydali na obhlídku města. Došli jsme do historického jádra, kde jsou domy už docela slušně opravené. Mimo centrum je to pak už horší. A sídliště na okrajích vypadají, jako by se měla za chvíli zhroutit. Ale uvnitř to prý tak hrozné nebývá.

      Vylezli jsme si také na radniční věž, abychom se podívali na město z výšky. Na oběd jsme si zašli do sítě místních jídelen... Dobře tam vaří, vyberete si, na co máte chuť a je to za slušné peníze. Oběd pro dva ve složení polévka nebo salát, hlavní jídlo, zákusek a pití vyšel asi na 170 Kč ☺

      Šli jsme se také svézt místní hromadnou dopravou. Ve Lvově jsou tramvajové tratě užší než u nás. Mají rozchod jen 1000 mm. A v dopravních prostředcích tu hrají bezva hru 😁 Jízdenky lze bez přirážky koupit u řidiče. Jedna jízda vyjde na 2 hřivny. Pokud nastoupíte zadními dveřmi a potřebujete jízdenku, tak vezmete odpočítání obnos a strávíte to nejbližšímu člověku ve směru k řidiči. Peníze takto doputují k řidiči a ten stejnou cestou začne posílat zpět jízdenku, která doputuje k vám. A prý, dle místních, doputuje vždy. Jízdenku je pak nutné označit v "kompostéru", které jsou umístěné mezi okny.

      Další lahůdkou místní dopravy je to, že nejsou zastávky moc často označeny svým názvem a ani na nich nevisí nic, co by se podobalo jízdnímu řádu.

      Večer jsme se stavili na večeři tam, kde na oběd. Po večeři už jen přesun na nádraží (trochu hektický, protože tramvaje kvůli výlukám jezdí jinak) a odjezd do Oděsy nočním vlakem.
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    • Day 7

      Kyjev

      August 23, 2017 in Ukraine ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Z Oděsi jsme se opět přes noc přesunuli vlakem do Kyjeva. Já si bohužel kromě pěkných zážitků dovezla i pekelnou bolest v krku a strašnou únavu. Do Kyjeva jsme přijeli asi v osm hodin. Rozhodli jsme se, že zkusíme zjistit, jestli by nás v hotelu neubytovali dřív, abych si mohla lehnout. Hotel byl umístěn přímo na Náměstí nezávislosti (Majdan). Všude byla vojenská technika a vojáci. Jak jsme zjistili později, tak 24. 8. je na Ukrajině státní svátek - Den nezávislosti.

      V hotelu nás bohužel dřív neubytovali. Mohli jsme tam alespoň nechat batohy. Vydali jsme se na lehkou procházku přes Majdan a do Mekáče na snídani a teplý čaj. V životě jsem tak dlouho hamburger nejedla. Přes nateklý krk jsem nebyla skoro schopná procpat sousto.

      Pak jsme se šli vozit metrem - tam jsem mohla sedět a spát. Do 14. hodiny jsme zabíjeli čas v metru. Hned po druhé jsme se ubytovali a já zapadla do postele. K bolesti v krku se přidala ještě zimnice. Kluci šli do města a já zbytek dne proležela a koukala na seriály... Ještě, že fungovalo WI-FI připojení.

      Večer mi Míra přinesl třídenní antibiotika, která se na Ukrajině dají sehnat bez předpisu. Poté, co jsem si našla, že se prodávají i u nás a přečetla si, na co jsou, jsem usoudila, že hůř mi být nemůže a vzala si je. S představou, jak se budu s angínou dostávat domů jsem usnula.

      Ráno jsem se probudila a bylo mi o moc líp než večer. Opadla teplota a i krk splasknul... Pokoj jsme museli vyklidit do 12 hodin. Tak jsem měla dost času na přemýšlení, co dál. Protože mi bylo líp a líp, tak jsem se rozhodla pokračovat v dovolené. Dopoledne nás opustil Míra, který se vracel letecky do ČR a nám s Mírou začala soukromá dovolená.

      Po dvanácté jsme odvezli batohy na nádraží do úschovny. Cestou na nádraží jsme vyjeli lanovkou jako vede na Petřín na jeden kopec, kde stál krásný pravoslavný kostel. Pak už bez batohů jsme vyjeli na jiný kopec (trochu jak naše Letná). Tady byly různé památníky - památník obětem 2. sv. války, památník obětem hladomorů (1921-1922, 1932-1933 a 1946-1947). Velkou část kopce pak zabíral klášterní komplex. No a asi zdaleka nejviditelnějším bodem je socha u muzea 2. sv. války - i s podstavcem měří 91 metrů. Prošli jsme i muzeum. Pak nás chytnul déšť, tak jsme se začali přesouvat zpět k nádraží, kde jsme si došli na večeři a počkali na noční vlak do Lvova.
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    • Day 4

      Lemberg (Lwiw) Ukraine

      June 13, 2019 in Ukraine ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Polnisch/Ukrainische Grenze : 1.5 Std Wartezeit incl. Kontrolle des Fahrzeugs ist noch erträglich.
      Als Entschädigung gibts eine 60 Ltr. Tankfüllung für 50 € und 75 km gute Straßen (die gabs vor 5 Jahren noch nicht ) bis Lemberg.
      Lemberg gehörte früher zum Kaiserreich Österreich /Ungarn und hat deshalb jede Menge an Kultur und phantastisch schöner und ursprünglicher Architektur zu bieten. Die Stadt ist voller Touristen und hier tanzt im warsten Sinne des Wortes "der Bär". Tolle unter.-und ober.-bzw überirdischer Berkwerks und Ritterkneipen in tiefen Gewölbekellern gibts hier, das hat noch keiner gesehen. Am besten fährt man wie wir mit dem Fahrrad oder dem Touristenzüglein durch die Stadt. Wer mit dem Wohnmobil kommt hat die Möglichkeit an den Stellen zu übernachten wo wir auch standen. Einfach auf manuelle Koordinaten gehen.
      Ein toller ausgefüllter Tag mit gutem und preiswertem Essen, den wir so schnell nicht mehr vergessen werden.
      Entfernung Freiburg-Lemberg ca. 1500 km.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    L’vivs’ka Oblast’, L'vivs'ka Oblast', Oblast de Lviv, Львовская область, Львівська Область

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