2012 Turkish Delights

September 2012
In September I took a group of 19 Ghostriders to complete a three week trip around Turkey. The trip was to combine cycling, challenging trekking and lots of active sightseeing. Read more
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  • Day 10

    Exploring High Camp

    September 17, 2012 in Turkey

    Since we had decided not to spend today climbing (aka suffering), we had the luxury of a late start to the day. We learned over breakfast that one of our trekkers had decided that the guide did not deserve a day of rest, so they insisted that they go to the top of Emler Peak with him. The rest of us were happy to have a much quieter day and wander the region around the high camp.

    After the strain of the past two days of climbing, I don't think that many of us would have been able to front up to yet another day of such effort.

    Late in the afternoon, the guide returned with Alan Barlin, after they had both reached the summit of Emler Peak. Alan seemed rightly pleased with his achievement.

    The next two days we would climb out of the mountains and back down into civilisation.
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  • Day 11

    Celikbuyduran Pass & a Helicopter Rescue

    September 18, 2012 in Turkey

    In the morning we discovered that Dayle had fallen very ill during the night. In fact she was so ill that there was no way she would be able to complete the demanding climb back down out of the mountains. She would have to be evacuated.

    The guide climbed a nearby hill to get satellite phone reception and requested a helicopter evacuation. While this was happening a team of mules arrived to transport our gear back down the mountain.

    After the luggage was loaded, we started our day's trek and climb up to the Celikbuyduran Pass. From the Pass we started to descent down to the Sokulupinar Camp Side.

    A short while after starting our walk we could hear the helicopter approaching. It hovered and moved from one side of the plateau to the other. We wondered what was happening. It was only later we learnt that the first helicopter could not find a safe landing location and returned to base.

    Some time later a much larger military helicopter appeared to complete the evacuation. Dayle and her husband were quickly taken on board and the helicopter quickly left the region.

    By now our team was even more diminished. After crossing the Pass, we started the perilous descent on rough, loose stones. The incline was extreme and it would have been very easy to end up slipping down the mountainside.

    We continued the descent for another 5 hours until we reached the Sokulupinar Camp. A cup of Tea was awaiting our arrival. We spent the Night at the Sokulupinar Camp. It had been another exhaustive and eventful day.
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  • Day 12

    Siyimalik Valley to Emil

    September 19, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    On our final day of the trek, after breakfast we started walking and left the Sokulupinar Camp and climbed up to the Sakartasi Pass (2.300m). From there we walked through the Eznevit Yaylasi until we reach a High Point with a beautiful panoramic view to the Siyirmalik Valley.

    At this amazingly place we took time to have a picnic lunch and to take some incredible photos of the Aladaglar Area. Afterwards we climbed down to
    the Siyirmalik Valeey and walked through its Forest until we reach the Emli Valley Camp.
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  • Day 13

    Antalya

    September 20, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    This morning we left the Emli Valley and the Aladaglar Area and drove for 5 hours to Konya. In Konya we had lunch and visited the Mevlana Museum. The Mevlana museum is the mausoleum of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi, a Sufi mystic also known as Mevlana or Rumi. It was also the dervish lodge of the Mevlevi order, better known as the whirling dervishes.

    The members of the Mevlevi order had a prolific impact throughout the Ottoman Empire in classical poetry, calligraphy, visual arts and music. Afterwards we continued driving until we arrived in Antalya.

    It is uncertain when the site of the current city was first inhabited. Attalos II, king of Pergamon, was believed to have founded the city around 150 BC, naming it Attalia and selecting it as a naval base for his powerful fleet. However, excavations in 2008 in the Dogu Garaji district of Antalya have uncovered remains dating to the 3rd century BC, suggesting that the city was founded earlier than previously supposed.

    Antalya became part of the Roman Republic in 133 BC when King Attalos III of Pergamum willed his kingdom to Rome at his death. The city grew and prospered during the Ancient Roman period. The city includes sites with traces of Lycian, Pamphylian, and Hellenistic -but mainly Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman- architecture and cultures.

    We spent the Night in the Old Part of Antalya at the Kaleici next to the Harbour.

    Here is my diary entry:
    Friday 8.30 am. Arrived in Antalya on the Mediterranean Coast late last night after our climb in the Taurus Mountains. It was certainly the toughest trek I have done (harder than any I have done in Nepal and tougher than the Inca Trail in Peru).

    We had up to 10.5 hrs of walking each day with huge altitude gains on unstable and exposed slopes. For some it was a little too tough, but I was amazed at the way the group worked together to assist those who were struggling. We even had our first helicopter evacuation when one of our group got sick and could not continue. The first rescue helicopter circled overhead but could not land because of the high altitude.

    It then took a call to get the Australian Embassy involved and a huge Turkish military helicopter and a full blown military operation to lift them out.

    Because we are relatively close to the unstable border with Syria the copter was very keen to load and take off without delay. Turkish fighter jets have been regularly flying overhead. A reminder that this is a very volatile part of the world.

    Now that they are well again, I am sure they will have a great tale to tell. When we finished the trek, everyone was thrilled with what they had achieved. That is the amazing thing about these sort of trips - ordinary people can do extraordinary things. I am sure that we all with come back with a revised idea of what we can achieve.

    Now we are in the easy and relaxing part of the trip. We are relaxing on the coast and will soon head off on a cruise to explore the nearby underwater city. We will be following the Mediterranean coast all the way back to Gallipoli and Istabul over the next 8 days. Along the way we will be visiting a number of famous historical sites.

    The group is fabulous, all getting along very well and having truckloads of laughs. We will all have so many stories to tell when we return to Australia. I can't post images yet but will set up an album later.
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  • Day 14

    Kas, Turkey

    September 21, 2012 in Turkey

    For the next few days we were following the Mediterranean Coastline back to the west of Turkey. The Kekova area was an amazing place for the coastal scenery as well as the well preserved archaeological sites due to the fact they are not easily accessible. A pleasant excursion by boat was the best way to see the ruins on the northern coast of Kekova island, some of the old houses were completely submerged due to earthquakes during the Byzantine period. By boat, we go round the island, where we could see numerous remains down to 2 meters deep, in the bluish light on the seabed.

    We then walked up to the Simena castle, which rewarded us with a 360 degree view, including numerous rock tombs. Just to cap this great day off we
    took a stroll on the Tersane Island.

    Afterwards we drove to Kas and our Hotel for the night. The hotel was located with a superb seafront view out over the Mediterranean Sea. It was a magical end to a glorious day.
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  • Day 15

    Fethiye and Xanthos

    September 22, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 19 °C

    After Breakfast we drove along the coast to the ancient City of Xanthos. The site has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988. Xanthos is mentioned by numerous ancient Greek and Roman writers.

    Strabo notes Xanthos as the largest city in Lycia. Both Herodotus and Appian described the conquest of the city by Harpagus on behalf of the Persian Empire, in approximately 540 BC. The prosperity of Lycia during the Persian occupation is demonstrated by the extensive architectural achievements in Xanthos, particularly the many tombs, culminating in the Nereid Monument.

    After visiting Xanthos we continued to the Saklikent Canyon (Hidden City).
    Saklikent Canyon is the second largest canyon in Europe. The Canyon is 300 meters deep and 18 km long, resulting from the abrasion of the rocks by flowing waters over thousands of years. As the level of water rises during winter months, visitors can enter the canyon only in the summer. 4km of the canyon are walk able after April, when most of the snow in the Taurus Mountains has melted and passed through on its way to the Mediterranean Sea.

    We spent the night in Fethiye.
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  • Day 16

    White Cliffs of Pamukkale

    September 23, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 23 °C

    Modern Fethiye is located on the site of the ancient city of Telmessos and was the most important city of Lycia, with a recorded history starting in the 5th century BC. Fethiye is one of Turkey’s well-known tourist centres and is especially popular during the summer.

    Today we drove to Pamukkale. The name Pamukkale means “cotton castle”, is one of the most remarkable natural sites with its cotton white plateaus,
    pale blue waters topping of the shallow pools and gently cascading down the drape-like stalagmites onto the lower levels for over 300 feet. The city contains hot springs and travertine, terraces of carbonate minerals left by the flowing water.
    All agreed that this location was one of the most striking and unexpected highlights of the entire trip.

    We spent the night in Pamukkale
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  • Day 17

    Ephesus and Selcuk

    September 24, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 23 °C

    In the morning, just after breakfast, we drove to the ancient city of Ephesus. Ephesus was an ancient Greek city, and later a major Roman city, on the west coast of Asia Minor, near present day Selcuk. It was one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League during the Classical Greek era.

    In the Roman period, it was for many years the second largest city of the Roman Empire; ranking behind Rome, the empire’s capital. Ephesus had a population of more than 250,000 in the 1st century BC, which also made it the second largest city in the world.

    Ephesus contains the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean. Only an estimated 15% has been excavated. The ruins that are visible give some idea of the city’s original splendour, and the names associated with the ruins are evocative of its former life.

    After visiting Ephesus we continued to Selcuk to our hotel.
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  • Day 18

    Canakkale and Ancient Troy

    September 25, 2012 in Turkey

    The day started with a 6 hour drive. On the way we stopped at the the ruins of ancient Troy. It is best known for being the focus of the Trojan War described in the Greek Epic Cycle and especially in the Iliad, one of the two epic poems attributed to Homer.

    In 1865, English archaeologist Frank Calvert excavated trial trenches in a field he had bought from a local farmer at Hisarlik, and in 1868 Heinrich Schliemann,
    a wealthy German businessman and archaeologist, also began excavating in the area after a chance meeting with Calvert in Canakkale. Troy was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1998.

    Afterwards we continued to Canakkale where we spent the night
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  • Day 19

    Gallipoli and Anzac Cove

    September 26, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 22 °C

    This morning we took the ferry across to Kilitbahir and visited Gallipoli and walk through the national park housing many relics of the naval and land battles that took place in 1915 during World War One.

    Amongst other places, we visited Anzac Cove, the site of the first ANZAC landing and Lone Pine, the largest graveyard-cum-memorial to those buried unmarked or at sea. This is a very important and touching place for many Australians and we took the time to conduct our own memorial service by the beach at Anzac Cove.

    This place had special significance for Bob Andrews, whose own father had fought here in WW1. My grandfather also served here in 1915, before being injured and evacuated to Egypt. There he played a part in forming the bicycle battalion, where he served a second in command for the rest of the war.

    Afterwards we continued to Istanbul. We spent the night in the Old Part of Istanbul, known as Sultanahmet.

    Our Turkish Adventure is rapidly drawing to a close. Tomorrow we will have our final free day in Istanbul, before the group breaks up to continue their individual ways.
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