Mexico to Brazil

tammikuuta - elokuuta 2024
We are currently travelling from Mexico City through Central America and South America to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil by August Lue lisää

Luettelo maista

  • Paraguay
  • Brasilia
  • Uruguay
  • Argentiina
  • Bolivia
  • Chile
  • Peru
  • Näytä kaikki (17)
Luokat
Reppumatkailu, Bussi, Pariskunta, Kulttuuri, Sukellus, Vaellus, Luonto, Valokuvaus, Itsensä löytäminen, Erämaa
  • 55,2tajetut kilometrit
Kuljetusvälineet
  • Lento31,4tkilometriä
  • Bussi10,4tkilometriä
  • Auto6 453kilometriä
  • Neliveto3 104kilometriä
  • Moottorivene708kilometriä
  • Kävely492kilometriä
  • Juna322kilometriä
  • Lautta121kilometriä
  • Patikointi114kilometriä
  • Helikopteri80kilometriä
  • Tuk tuk60kilometriä
  • Polkupyörä38kilometriä
  • Melonta/Soutu9kilometriä
  • Cable car6kilometriä
  • Purjehdus5kilometriä
  • Hevonen5kilometriä
  • Moottoripyörä4kilometriä
  • Matkailuauto-kilometriä
  • Karavaani-kilometriä
  • Uima-kilometriä
  • Asuntolaiva-kilometriä
  • Risteilyalus-kilometriä
  • Hiihtäminen-kilometriä
  • Liftaus-kilometriä
  • Paljain jaloin-kilometriä
  • 144jalanjäljet
  • 239päivää
  • 2,0tvalokuvat
  • 1,0ttykkäykset
  • Acatenango and Fuego Volcanoes

    3.–4. maalisk. 2024, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Guatemala and indeed Central America is known for its volcanoes. So we signed up for a one night two day trek to climb Acatenango. However the main focus for the trek was actually Fuego the neighbouring peak which is a highly active volcano erupting several times an hour. Our camp was level with Fuego and provided excellent views of these eruptions less than 2 miles away.

    (Unfortunately Helen wasn’t able to join me - Michael - for this having felt a bit unwell and not sleeping the night before - she is fine now).

    On the first day we climbed from the road at 2450m to 3600m to our camp. We passed through four clear zones - Agricultural (maize, avocado etc), Cloud Forest, Pine Forest and lastly the baron volcanic zone. There were 19 of us in the group plus our guides and porters.

    From the camp we had excellent views of Fuego during sunset and into the night. We arrived at 3pm and whilst most the group did an extra hike to get closer to Fuego (see head torches in Timelapse video) I stayed to relax and focus on photography. About every 10 minutes there would be an eruption - you would see it first and hear it a few seconds later.

    Getting the shot of the volcano erupting at night was very tricky. These lava spewing eruptions only happened about once an hour and it was hard to even see the mountain to focus the camera.

    I went to bed without a shot I was happy with, it was a very cold night but I got a couple of hours sleep. I woke up at 3am and went out to try for the shot again and nailed it at about 3.45. At 4am those that wanted to summit Acatenango set off (only 5 of us as most had burnt themselves out with the Fuego hike) under head torch.

    This was a tough 90 minutes to ascend to the summit (3976m). We were all feeling the thinner air (at sea level you have 20% oxygen but at this height it was effectively 12%). Someone with another group was vomiting with altitude sickness. Plus we hadn’t slept well, were walking under head torch and it was incredibly dusty due to all the volcanic ash. It was two steps forward one step back.

    It was all worth it to see another sunrise and be above the cloud. Me and another in the group (from a mountain rescue team in England) noticed that the view point we were at was not the high point and insisted on running to the true summit. This turned to a slow trudge as soon as it became up hill.

    We were back at the camp for seven covered head to foot in ash and dust, After breakfast we descended to the start 1200m descent in two hours. Exhausted but very happy to have done this amazing experience.
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  • Copan Ruins

    7.–12. maalisk. 2024, Honduras ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The main reason people come to Copan Ruinas is to see the Mayan Ruins here after which the town gets its name. We visited them today and (according to the unesco app) this is our 100th UNESCO World Heritage site.

    The ruins are spread over a large area but the central plaza is impressive and you could see how 6,000 people could gather for sacred rituals or political events.

    The interplay between nature and history struck me again with trees growing out of temples and root systems breaking into ancient pavements. The large colony of Scarlet Macaws were accompanied by many other birds including Collared Acari, Lessons and Turquoise Browed Motmot and two life ticks in Streak Backed Oriole and White-throated Magpie Jay.

    The carvings here and small details were the most impressive we have seen to date, well preserved. Copan is most known for its stairway featuring the largest hieroglyphics in Mesoamérica.

    This will be our last Mayan ruin on this trip as we are at the far south of their range. A very impressive civilisation.
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  • Macaw Mountain

    7. maaliskuuta 2024, Honduras ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Warning this post may contain an excessive amount of colour! We are now in Honduras and today we visited Macaw Mountain. This place blends the definition of wild and captive but for a good reason. It is a site to breed and release Scarlet Macaws into the wild. It is also a rehabilitation centre for injured or previously captive birds.

    There were birds in cages - very large cages (much better than UK bird parks I would say) but all the pictures attached are of wild or at least free flying birds which have now been released.

    We saw mostly bird species we have seen before on this trip but some allowed much better photos. Tomorrow we plan to visit the Mayan ruins which make Copan famous
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  • Santa Ana, El Salvador

    11.–15. maalisk. 2024, El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today we left Copan Ruinas in Honduras and took a bus to Santa Ana in El Salvador whilst this was only a 5 hour trip we went via Guatemala. This meant a total of four border points and four more passport stamps.

    But we are now in country number 5 of this trip. Until recently El Salvador was quite a risky destination but the current president declared a state of emergency and put all the gang and cartel members in prison with very little legal process.

    The people love him for it as the murder rate and corruption levels and fallen like a stone. He was just reelected with 83% of the vote.

    That said there is a strong armed police, army and security guard presence all around. A shotgun toting guard at most cash points for example.

    We haven’t done much other than eat some street food for tea ($2 each for a meal), done some food shopping and visited the impressive gothic cathedral.

    Tomorrow we are planning another volcano hike (together this time) and to visit a nearby crater lake.
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  • Climbing Santa Ana Volcano

    12. maaliskuuta 2024, El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    So today we climbed the highest Volcano in El Salvador - Volcan Ilamatepec or just Santa Ana Volcano. It is 2381m albeit we only went to the craters edge and not to the full summit. It was much easier than the last volcano!

    We had about 500m of ascent from the trail head first through forest and then more sparsely vegetated slopes.

    The huge Agave plants were impressive. This is what they make Tequila from. The flowers form once in the plant’s life and then they die. But when you see the size of them (twice a human) you can see it is a once in a lifetime investment.

    Continuing the theme of armed guards there were two armed police on the top ensuring all the tourists were safe.

    The crater itself was impressive with a strong sulfur smell and a 200m drop to the acidic lake. We added a new bird on the top - Violet Green Swallow which takes me to 399 for the trip.

    Afterwards we visited the much larger crater lake of Coatepeque for lunch.
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  • Seeing beyond the Flowers.

    13. maaliskuuta 2024, El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today we took a drive along a road known as the route of the flowers (Ruta de Las Flores). It is a bit out of season for the flowers but it was still a pleasant drive. And there were plenty of flowers to see along the way, along with street art, artisan crafts and a nice mix of street food and coffee plantations.

    Our guide Carlos told us all about the history much of it sadly violent. A genocide of native groups in the 1930s by a military dictator. A civil war from 1979 to 1992 which resulted in over 75,000 deaths and many “disappeared.” Our guide told us how his grandmother was tortured and killed during these years and showed us a place where a rebel leader was shot by firing squad. This isn’t ancient history but fairly recent.

    After the civil war the country was weak and at this time the USA deported thousands of gang members from Southern California. The country could not cope with these violent and organised criminals and gang warfare flourished. Gangs were more powerful than the state. As recently as 2015 El Salvador had the highest murder rate in the world 103 murders per 100,000 in a year (UK is 9.9). Again our guide told us how the gangs would collect extortion money from his parent’s business and those that didn’t pay were killed.

    Over the last couple of years a new president - Nayib Bukele - has led a massive crackdown. Ironically the gangs culture has been used against them. Gangs identified using tattoos. One gang for example had a sad clown face tattoo and a tear indicated you had killed someone. During the crackdown these tattoos were enough to arrest and convict (for life). During the crackdown 70,000 gang members have been put in prison (2% of population) with minimal judicial process. If you want to get an idea of scale and seriousness, see https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-64…

    The murder rate is now 2.4 per 100,000 (less than UK) and the president has been re-elected with 83% of the vote. To bring this closer to home, our guide told us that the place we are staying was a stronghold of the notorious MS-13 gang and completely unsafe a couple of years ago. Now they are welcoming tourists and hopefully the economy can grow and flourish leading to a better life for all here.
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  • Goodbye El Salvador

    15. maaliskuuta 2024, El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    So we are leaving El Salvador and heading to Costa Rica.

    Our original plan was to take the bus and next stop would have been Nicaragua. However their policy of confiscating cameras and binoculars has meant this isn’t an option for us.

    So after 75 days and 8,000km of overland travel we are having to fly to San Jose. We will then travel to the north of Costa Rica for some diving, leave our stuff before popping into Nicaragua for a week.

    A very short video summarising some
    of our recent adventures in Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador.
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  • Landed in San Jose

    16.–17. maalisk. 2024, Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Not much to say but we have landed safely, got Uber into town, checked into hotel, purchased some bus tickets and now waiting for late dinner (9pm).

    Next bed before we get a bus at 8am.

  • Diving in Costa Rica

    19. maaliskuuta 2024, Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The last few days we have been diving from Coco in Costa Rica.

    It is over 20 years since we dived in the pacific (Hawaii in 2001). The conditions here are challenging for diving. The visibility can be quite low sometimes about 5m. There are strong currents with a high surge factor which can mean you are moving forward and back in relation to the bottom. Lastly the water temperature is also a bit cooler with powerful thermoclines. A thermocline is where the water can change temperature by as much as 10 degrees when you cross an invisible barrier. It is like going from the hot to the cold bath.

    We mainly came here to see Manta Rays but alas this was not to be this time. When we went to the Catalinas Islands where they gather (over an hour by boat) the visibility was awful. But we did see lots of cool marine life Moray Eels, White-Tip Reef Sharks, many large Rays, many Octopus including a huge one, and so many fish some in schools of thousands bait balling.

    But we have enjoyed the diving including taking a speciality course towards our Master Diver qualification. I think we are now better divers than we were 20 years ago. And coping with the challenging conditions here is part of that development.

    We have also done some cool birding from the house. This included getting our 400th bird of the trip - Hoffman Woodpecker

    Finally we have received permission from the Nicaraguan government to visit the country after two rounds of questioning (by email) so tomorrow we move on towards the border crossing the next day for a week in Nicaragua,
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  • Granada, Nicaragua

    21.–23. maalisk. 2024, Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Yesterday we left Costa Rica and took a bus to Granada Nicaragua.

    For the distance this was a very long and difficult journey. What could be done in 2.5 hours by car (180km) took over 9 hours. We waited at the bus stop (a bench under an underpass) for our bus for 3 hours. It then took over an hour to clear the Nicaraguan immigration before waiting another couple of hours in 38 degree heat for our bus to clear customs so we could continue.

    Granada is a lovely colonial era city which reminds us greatly of Antigua in Guatemala. Impressive churches, bustling markets, horse drawn carriages mingling with tuktuks and pickups.

    There is quite a lot of poverty on display and we were pleased to eat at an excellent social enterprise called Smile Cafe, which employs about 35 deaf staff and educates its customers on sign language. Of course a smile is a universal language too.
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