• youonlylivetwice
sep. 2016 – jul. 2017

Ireland

Et 302-dagers eventyr av youonlylivetwice Les mer
  • Nitra

    28. mars 2017, Slovakia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Took the bus to Nitra today which is about an hour and s half from Bratislava. Surprisingly I met up with Marta on the bus so we had a good talk on my way to Nitra. She gave me some really good day trip ideas for super cheap prices and told me to take a different cheaper bus back to the city which was higher caliber, less expensive, better service and complimentary coffee on board. I immediately booked my ticket back when I got to the station and she sure was right it was a way nicer trip back. Spent the day at the Nitra castle which was occupied by the Turks at one time and was also know as the mist episcopal place in all if Slovakia. The ancient Slovak language originated from here. Pope John Paul II visited Nitra in June 1995 and a large statue of him stands on the grounds of the castle. The entrance of the castle originally had a large draw bridge but now has a Stone bridge at the entrance. In the summertime there are concerts and evening films played in the castle square. The crypts are not accessible to the public but there is a large wooden carved scene of the last supper next to the hand dug 60m well. The carvings were beautiful. I then found the synagogue which was very interesting and featured graffic art by a locally born Jew who returned to Israel to live out his life. His family was lost in the holocaust and he was the lone survivor. Unbelievable art. I learned that the Jewish people don't adorn their synagogues with holy statues because theirs is a personal connection with God and nature and is not represented by idols. Very interesting. The synagogue was very simple, white and had a scripture tablet of the Torah above the alter. A large number of Jews lived in Nitra and were shop keepers, jewellers, bankers and tailors. Made my way back through town which had a huge square surrounded by restaurants. Had a lemon gelato on the way to the bus station for a mere 60 cents. 22 degrees today!Les mer

  • Sunny sunny sunny weather...

    31. mars 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A whopping 24 degrees in the city yesterday and all the outdoor cafes along the Danube are packed with people. The flowers and trees are all blooming and there are bees everywhere. I took a street I was familiar with yesterday and found the Nedbalka gallery which had an exhibit of Albin Brunovsky, the lithograph artist I fell in love with at the Trencin castle. Amazing work. He was born in Zahor which in close to the Moravian mountains in 1935. Started his career in the sixties as impressionist fantasy. His work was shunned by the communists and in 1989 a large portion of his work was released. He illustrated children's books but the children were to scared to read the books because of the pictures. His art flows from one object and melds into another. After 1989 when communism fell his art became even more bizarre. After the exhibit I had a cappucinno in the cafe upstairs and read books about other Slovak artist and listened to Mozart. A wonderful day alone.Les mer

  • Schlosshof Palace, Austria

    1. april 2017, Østerrike ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today we took the local bus to Devinska Nova Ves and then walked across the bridge for about an hour to the Schlosshof Summer Palace. The palace is in Baroque style with magnificent gardens and fountains (which were not flowing yet). It was a place where Prince Eugene spent his summers away from his military campaigns hunting and relaxing. He was a collector of exotic animals and had them imported to the palace. Maria Theresa of the Hapsburgs, Queen of Austria, lived in this palace as well. The stable housed prized horses and each horse had its own paddock with marble trough. There was a building on the property which was called the Orangerie where citrus fruits were grown for the prince. There was an Easter market at the palace with lots of beautifully painted eggs and art. We made our way back to Slovakia late in the afternoon and stopped off at a krcma (outdoor local pub) for a couple of beers. Another beautiful sunny day. Heading to the Tatra mountains for four days on Monday.Les mer

  • Tatra Mountains getaway Day 1

    3. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Left for the train early in the morning and when we got to the train station our train was delayed by 50 minutes. Had to stand for almost two hours as there are no benches at the station because of the drunks and Roma's
    at the station. Our trip was four and a half hours long but a beautiful trip because I got to see the northern villages in the way. Totally different from the city. When we got to Poprad-Tatry station Benzik picked us up and dropped us off at the cabin. He's a friend of Zdenko's and air traffic controller at the airport. The cabin is quaint and lovely and 30m from a creek. Went for a short walk and then unpacked our things. Tomorrow will be a hiking day.
    Les mer

  • Strbske Pleso, Stary Smokevec

    4. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Woke up this morning with horrible back and chest pain and had a hard time breathing. Aunt says its fresh air poisoning and I say it was having my backpack on for two hours in the same position. Don't know how I'm going to manage the hiking. Set out after breakfast for a 1km hike to the electric train. First stop was a transfer in Stary Smokovec and then on to Strbske Pleso. When we arrived at Strbske Pleso we did a simple hike around the lake which was only 2.25 km and manageable. The high Tatras were right above us and they were magnificent. We went down to Strba after by cable car which I've never been on so that was a neat experience. The cable cars have been running up to the mountains since 1896 and were beautiful. We had a coffee at the bottom and headed back up to the top again. Once up we headed by electric train to Stary Smokovec to get lunch and some food items. We couldn't find one restaurant that was open. We headed to Tatranska Lomnica for dinner at this point. The whole time we managed to bypass the rain storm that was passing through. We caught the bus back to our cabin and finally got caught in the thunder storm and pelting rain. Bought some topical tonic my grandmother used for pain relief made from herbs and doused myself in it to relief the pain and had an early night to bed.Les mer

  • Tatranska Lominca

    5. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Feeling better today and after last nights storm the skies are blue. Walking trek to Tatranska Lomnica and wanted to head up the ski lift to the first trek point but the lifts were closed for maintenance. We walked a total of 6 slow kms today and I wanted to walk another 8 but aunt was complaining her toe nails were too long in her boots and she had to go back to the cabin to trim her nails. I had to choke back laughing this excuse. Once back at the cabin I cracked open my bottle of Rose and laid back in the sun to enjoy the warmth. Booked the train back to Bratislava for Friday ahead of time. Tomorrow I'm heading out hiking alone.Les mer

  • Walking trek to Stary Smokovec

    6. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Drizzle this morning so we started with a trek alongside the river to the village if Stara Lesna. Came back for lunch and then walked to Stary Smokovec which was about 6 km. The weather cleared and it was beautiful. Took the electric train back and a good thing because it started to snow....and snow. My first sign of winter so far on my trip. Beautiful winter wonderland. Heading home tomorrow.Les mer

  • Back in the city

    8. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Left Friday morning with 20 cm of snow on the ground. The train connections were great except for our last train which was late. It seemed like the longest train ride ever because there were delays on the way the police had been called on board for some reason. Unpacked my things and was happy to have some quiet time in my room. Saturday morning we went to the Bory mall for the garden show and I picked up a few tips for my garden when I get home. There was a beautiful orchid and bonsai display.Les mer

  • Sitting on the dock of the river

    10. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Time out today. Met with my cousin Zdenko today in town for coffee, basa punch and conversation. We finally had a chance to catch up on life and family stuff. Walked over the old bridge to the river brewery and sat in the sun enjoying the view and the beer. Headed to the castle over the UFO bridge to check out the gardens. They were gorgeous and prettier than the Schlosshof gardens. Tomorrow I go to my aunt Anna's for lunch and catch up with her.Les mer

  • Don Giovanni (Don Juan) opera

    13. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Surprise last minute tickets to Mozart's Don Giovanni Opera, sung only in Italian. This was my first ever opera and it was magnificent. How the Slovak singers sang this in Italian was more than amazing to me. I was lucky to have seats in the fourth row so the view was amazing and the orchestra was right there. The opera was written by Mozart in 1776 and was written as a seductive comedy. Don Giovanni being a libertine and seducer of all women. It is the most performed opera in the world. The costumes and stage setting were also incredible with 3D sets and gorgeous gowns. Can't say enough about this great performance and experience.Les mer

  • Easter tradition in Slovakia

    17. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Easter holidays are big in Slovakia. Actually bigger than Christmas. Days are celebrated by fasting, then vegetarian day, then a big dinner and finally on Easter Monday the males (especially in the mountain and villages) braid whips out of willow trees and visit local girls and whip them, douse them with water (usually in creeks) and then pour perfume on them. Whipping for good health, watering for longevity, perfume for love and vitality. Lucky girls. Then the men are given hard boiled or blown painted eggs and fed. This tradition I got to experience with my male cousins. I just got dressed and was instantly whipped, watered and doused with perfume. This happened five times.Les mer

  • Fashion in Slovakia 1945-1989

    18. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    New exhibit at the national gallery showcasing fashion in Czechoslovakia from 1945-1989. Fashion was considered taboo and so a lot of fashion was conceived through the underground. In the mid 40's women were encouraged to wear overalls and this was considered sexy and practical. In the 60's fashion was homogeneous and everyone wore the same style and colour. Patterns were smuggled in and women shared them to sew their own clothes with adding their own touch of creativity. There was only one fashion show during this entire era and it came from Paris (Dior)and was quickly banned because the women went crazy. The fashion capital of Czechoslovakia at that time was Trencin. In 1989 when communism fell the fashion channels opened and importing fashionable clothes became a big business. Interestingly enough I remember wearing some of those clothes (a pair of generic gym shorts and a snow hat).Les mer

  • Visiting Uncle Tomas and Piestany

    20. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ 🌬 5 °C

    Left for Topolcany today to visit my fathers grave. It's been 34 years since his passing. Went to spend the day with my uncle after and ended up spending the night. As with every visit I learned some new information on family history. So good to sit down and learn this before my family gets too old to remember or is no longer here. I took the bus to Piestany in the morning hoping to find a two day deal for the spa. Limited internet didn't help me achieve my goal but I will keep my eyes peeled for upcoming deals. I drank the 60 degrees sulphur water which has so many healing properties and would have loved to have filled a bottle for my trip home. The water is so high in sulphur and smells like rotten eggs but if you can get by the smell it us fantastic in taste.Les mer

  • Now for something completely different

    22. april 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Bratislava days and all kinds of action in the city. Free museums, galleries, music and historic plays. I went to the oldest pastry shop in town that was built in 1634, was frequented by Queen Maria Theresia and took over 10 years to restore. Absolutely expensive but absolutely beautiful. Amazing murials, stained glass and toilets. Next was the St. Ladislav chapel, art exhibition of Jozef Drozd(who I actually met and shook hands with) a very old artist, then the home of Johann Nepomuk Hummel (who wrote sonatas with Mozart and Beethoven), and finally the museum of torture. The last venue was morbidly interesting and what amazed me the most was that parents brought their small children to this museum. Something I would never have done. The city had streetcars running from the early 30's but they were super packed and I didn't feel like being crammed in like a sardine so I passed.Les mer

  • Ostrihom (Esztergom)Hungary

    27. april 2017, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Spent the last few days with my cousin Natalia and took a day trip to Ostrihom Hungary. The town is in the Carpathian basin on the northern part of Hungary and was once the capital city (975 ad). It is rich with history, lies on the Danube and is full of recreation, thermal baths and vineyards. It was once conquered and occupied by the Turks. The first king of Hungary was coronated here and it was the first transportation and trade route. We first drove to Sturovo which is across the bridge from Ostrihom and found a medieval restaurant to have a quick bowl of soup in. The restaurant was called Sedladcka and the staff talked to us in a rude and primitive manner as was done in those times (they dressed the part too). It was so funny because we were taken aback by their attitude but then realized the theme. The food was great and the atmosphere was super. They had a life size cage hanging inside for the witches that would be caught that night. After lunch we walked across the bridge to Hungary and took in the sights and attractions of the town. It was very beautiful.Les mer

  • Senkvice and Folk Festival

    1. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    What started as a day trip to Pezinok ended as a road trip to a near by village wine festival. Headed for a folk festival to Pezinok early in search of folk dancing. The dancing was to be in the local park but didn't start until 5pm. We walked around the beautiful park and enjoyed the artisans. Beautiful hand made necklaces, drums and woodwork. We headed to the train after we ate and found a wine festival in the next village called Senkvice. What a great feel in this beautiful little village. The locals were grilling a bull on a spit, local traditional musicians playing folk songs and a traditional wedding was taking place. At the traditional wedding the bridesmaid was giving out baked cakes and everyone was drinking shots of Slivovica and toasting the married couple. I grabbed a cake out of the basket and it was Incredible. Never had anything like it(made by the village women). Tasted a new grape varietal I have never had before and is only grown in the Modra region.Les mer

  • Bojnice

    4. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Road trip to Bojnice with my cousin Natalia and my Godmother Gizka. We laughed for two days straight. My godmother is so positive at 83 years old and can recite history and knows everything about our humongous family. Natka and I went to the castle where they were celebrating the festival of ghosts and we were entertained by a theatrical performance of castle history and witchcraft in medieval times. The castle is the most visited in Slovakia and looks like Disneyland castle. The castle sits on a crater and was built in 1113. Walking from the castle you can reach the thermal spas which are deluxe and well known throughout Slovakia. Met new cousins Janka and Marienka who are older than me because my uncle was older than my mother and had ten children. Cold winters in central Slovakia back then. Our visit was full of laughter and rich with family history. Thanks to my godmother for arranging this visit. My cousin Marienka has a brewery and invited us to come stay with her. Looking forward to our next visit.Les mer

  • Packing up and hitting the road

    12. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Saying farewell tonight and heading to Martin, north central Slovakia, to spend a couple of days with my cousin Marienka. Looking forward to dusting off my walking shoes and hitting the road again. I'll decide which city to go to in Poland once I'm at my cousins. She has been to Poland regularly and knows it well so she'll be a great guide for me. I've pinpointed a few places that are a definite must and the weather will be warmer too.Les mer

  • Vrutky and meeting new family

    13. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Left Bratislava this morning to stay with my cousin Marienka and her husband Zdenko. Train ride was about 2 1/2 hours and Zdenko met me at the train. When I arrived at the apartment Marienka greeted me with a shot of Slivovica, pinch of salt and a piece if bread. This is a customary welcome in northern Slovakia. I then met my second cousins Rastislav, Andrea and Veronika and their children. We talked and laughed for hours. Later we went to my cousins beautiful cottage which is situated on a hill overlooking the valley.Les mer

  • Roadtrip

    15. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today's roadtrip was through the Orava country side. We travelled over 250 km through Dolby Kubin, Trchova, Namestovo and Liptovsky Mikulas. We went to a remote village where the village people set up a mill in a valley to accommodate both valleys. The road was very ragged and one school was three km away. The mill is being restored and was incredible to see the joinery involved in the operation of the mill. There were free range goats and chickens on the property. We stopped off at one of Marienka's friends for a glass of wine and then headed to Turcianske Teplice. This is another spa town with healing waters for gastrointestinal problems. I drank a glass of the stinky sulphur water to keep myself healthy.Les mer

  • Harmaneska Jaskyna (cave)

    16. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Headed out for a walking tour up 1.5km to Harmaneska Jaskyna. The stallogmite cave was discovered in 1932. We traversed through the cave for 45 minutes and travelled down 850 metres. The air was incredible in the cave. Our guide cut the lights at one point of the tour to show how dark it was for the miners when the tunnelled through and their lamps went out. Some interesting rock formations were a lions head, witches face, three wise men and the Empire State Building.Les mer

  • Cicmany, Rajecka Lesna & Rajecke Teplice

    17. mai 2017, Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today's field trip was once again amazing. There is so much to see in this part of Slovakia. We started out in Cicmany where all the houses are painted in traditional folk design. It was a very old and beautiful village that dates back hundreds of years. Each symbol on the houses mean something else. Next we headed to Rajecka Lesna know as the Bethlehem of Slovakia. It has healing waters, a Calvary road and the largest mechanical carving of Slovak life. It was carved by a local man who had no woodcarving background but spent years carving the scene. Absolutely amazing. We had lunch and a beer here and the temperature hit 26 degrees. Our last destination of the day was Rajecke Teplice, another spa town. It was not what I expected and I have to say that Bojnice was my favourite spa town so far. I can't thank my cousin enough for taking me to all these beautiful parts of northern Slovakia.Les mer

  • Katowice, Poland

    18. mai 2017, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Had breakfast with Marienka this morning and packed a lunch for the trip to Poland. Couldn't decide whether to go to Kraków or Katowice. Zdenko took me to the train and at the last minute I decided on Katowice. The train was quick with only one hiccup where the rail line couldn't be switched and so we waited for half an hour. Arrived at 15:30 and quickly found a hostel, dropped my bags and started touring the town. There are a lot of young people here and very fashionable. Beautiful fashion! The streets are super clean and the countryside coming in had absolutely no litter. There was a light show in town these evening and the police stayed back from the crowd. People are so well behaved here and polite. Have not seen any homeless people or Roma's here at all. Stunning so far. Only staying one night and off to Kraków tomorrow.Les mer

  • Krakow-Buzzzzzinggg!

    19. mai 2017, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Thanks to all for wishing me a happy birthday! I left Katowice this morning and stalls were being set up for a musical and outdoor festival. Music was playing and people were in great spirit and another sunny day. Holy cannoli is it hot and Kraków is buzzing! So much action. Music and film festival, huge market and artisans in Rynek Square. Loved it the first time here with Olli in 2013 and I love it even more again. Had a plate of mushroom and cabbage perogies and a couple of beers for lunch. There are a ton of British tourists and the Polish people speak excellent English. Booked my hostel away from the old town as it is super noisy and I'm only a 10 minute walk away ($11 per night, yippee). Lots of parks and green space and super clean. Krakow is the Catholic capital in Poland and home of John Paul II. Walked along the river Wisla and enjoyed the warm summer night. Kraków has become a gastronomic Mecca and there are so many great restaurants to choose from. I walked through the indoor and outdoor market and through St. Benedicts church. There was a peaceful Communist support rally in the main square. I didn't go into Wawel church as the queue was huge and I had too much to see. Lots of super fall down drunk British guys tonight. Don't think the Queen would be too impressed.Les mer

  • Jewish section & Oskar Schindler Enamel

    20. mai 2017, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Back in the swing of walking again and put on 10km today! I dropped if my bags in luggage storage at the hostel as I had to change rooms and didn't want to be in a dorm of 10. I walked to Schindler's Enamel factory and didn't have to wait long in the queue. Schindler saved over 1000 Jewish and Polish by employing them in the factory to make enamel pots and pans for export to other countries. He had a smart account who skimmed money from the sales (fixed the books) so he could get Jews out of Kraków. After the factory I walked through Jewish market Kazmierrz and had a traditional polish meal called Bigos, sauerkraut stew with beef. I made my way to the new hostel which is smack dab in the middle of the old town with a great view. The condition of the hostel is dub par to what I had and paid last night. Location, location I guess. I hit the market again after for perogies made with feta, spinach, garlic and sun dried tomatoes, made by a local woman. Delicious! Wavering on seeing the Salt mines tomorrow aa the cost is $45 and there are so many tour buses going there daily. Just met 6 welsh guys on a stag who snuck into the hostel. Will who is getting married for the second time after 30 years of singledom donned a beautiful one piece his son bought him. The lot of them were hilarious. They are from Cardiff and work on the railway.Les mer