Zambia
Lusaka Province

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32 travelers at this place

  • Day72

    Bye Bye

    February 27 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Since Wednesday evening (26th) I stay here at Vincent's loving family in Chilenje. Checked in with Daniel through Airbnb but it's definitely more a CouchSurfing place! Vincent has a bar and 5 kids. The perfect place to chill out!

    Daniel leaves back to Germany on 28th and I fix some broken brackets around my roof rack: My recovery tracks are mounted vertically again.

    Most national parks and locations around Zambia are "virtually impossible" to be accessed during the wet season. I will have to see where I can get through. There are supposed to be trillions of waterfalls in this country. Today is the day to continue!
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  • Day64

    Lusaka

    July 9, 2017 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Luckily the drive out didn’t seem nearly as terrible as on the way in – I guess after 8+ hours of driving you get a little tired/frayed so things seem even worse than they might be. It was still a very BAD road, but we were in much better spirits after a few days break from driving.
    We ended up having to spend 2 days in Lusaka as we weren’t able to get the fuel tank leak fixed in a single day. We found Lusaka to be a large, bustling and diverse city. The traffic rivaled the worst we’ve seen anywhere, but the drivers were much more polite with hardly a honking horn to be heard. As we had to leave the vehicle overnight at the shop, we had to get a number of taxis and really enjoyed talking to the drivers and getting their perspective on life in Zambia. We were so impressed with how aware and vested the people we met are in their country – we saw fuel station attendants listening to parliamentary debates and taxi drivers commenting on the “almost” state of emergency and the Chinese introducing growth hormones into the chicken industry as very bad for the people of Zambia.
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  • Day61

    Mvuu, Lower Zambezi National Park

    July 6, 2017 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Leaving Kafue we headed towards Lusaka, the capital of Zambia, bypassing the city center and turning off just before the Zimbabwe border to get to Mvuu camp close to Lower Zambezi National Park. We thought we had left the worst of the roads behind us, and 60km does not seem far, but OMG, this one was a classic. What made it bearable was the amazing, picturesque villages and the waves and smiles from children as we passed by.
    The very sad story we were told when we arrived at the camp, which is situated on the banks of the very impressive Zambezi river, looking across to Zimbabwe, is that the day before we arrived a camper from Germany had been killed by an elephant just a few yards from his campsite, in front of his girlfriend. John met the owner and talked about the incident, and it seems unclear exactly what happened, but more than likely the victim approached too close to the elephant without being fully aware of the danger, trying to get a ‘perfect’ picture, and by the time he realized the elephant was charging him in real life, it was too late. Regardless, a very sad story and to make it even sadder, we just learned that a local villager was also killed by an elephant on the same day.
    Given the bad roads here and the stunning beauty of the river, we opted to see this park and critters by boat. Some great views of both the Zimbabwe and Zambia sides of the river with plenty of hippo, elephants, birds of all kinds and even some buffalo on one of the islands. Sadly, poaching is a major issue in this park (and apparently all of Zambia) and you can see it in the way the elephants run away in fear when you approach, with their ears curled and the fear clear in their eyes.
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  • Day111

    Raus aus der Hitze

    October 27, 2019 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Wir sind mit einer Zwischenübernachtung in Petauke jetzt wieder kurz vor Lusaka angekommen. Eine schöne Campsite mit Schatten und endlich wieder Temperaturen unter 40 Grad. Die Hitze im South Luangwa war wirklich sehr anstrengend, da die Temperatur auch Nachts kaum unter 30 Grad sank. Hinzu kommt ein starker Nordost Wind, der hier die beginnende Regenzeit ankündigt.Read more

  • Day105

    Forest Inn nach Lusaka

    October 21, 2019 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Auf dem Weg nach Lusaka werden wir heute das erste Mal bei einer Polizeikontrolle herausgewunken. Es fehlen weiße Reflektoren am Fahrzeug. Ich muss zum Rapport beim Chief Officer. Er hat einen guten Tag und lässt uns ohne Strafe zu zahlen weiterfahren.

    Wenig später geht es an einem Toll Gate für uns nicht mehr weiter. Ausländische Fahrzeuge können die Maut nicht streckenabhängig bezahlen, sondern müssen gleich für ganz Sambia Maut zahlen. $20 kostet der Spaß.

    In Fringilla essen wir zu Mittag und kaufen noch leckere Droewors ein, bevor es weitergeht nach Lusaka. Der befürchtete Verkehrskollaps findet nicht statt und so erreichen wir 15.00 Uhr unsere Campsite im Osten der Stadt. Es sind 37 Grad! Der Oktober wird hier wegen seiner Temperaturen auch Suicid Month genannt 😥
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  • Day59

    On the road...

    November 9, 2018 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Wie heißt es so schön?

    Der Weg ist das Ziel.

    Wir haben mittlerweile so viele Stunden, Tage und Nächte in Bussen, Zügen, Minivans und Tuk-Tuks verbracht, dass alleine die Anekdoten dieser Fahrten ein ganzes Buch füllen könnten.

    Hier eine kleine Auswahl von Bildern, die „on the road“ entstanden sind.
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  • Day33

    Eureka Camp

    July 11, 2017 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was another day on the bus, it seemed to go quick though surprisingly, especially when we started the day with a flat tyre on the truck.

    It is now 5:00pm, our tents are set up and we are about to prepare dinner. This campsite is on the outskirts of town and is the home to several animals, we have already seen a baby giraffe, zebras, water bucks and thomson gazelles.

    There were another two overland trucks about to arrive so I had a shower before they got here and took over. The showers were clean and hot which was nice after being stuck on the bus all day.
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  • Day86

    TAZARA Pt. 2: The "Express"

    December 10, 2019 in Zambia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    And so, after much faffing about, we board the train, ready for this 48 hour, 2000 kilometre epic train ride through the heart of Africa. We settle down in our private compartment, and we're soon introduced to our attendant, who services the first class carriages. The meal service is detailed to us. We have the choice of chicken, beef, or fish, and so we opt for a nice chicken lunch, which is pretty tasty. We would end up having for almost every other meal on the journey, completely grinding down our vegetarianism.

    In the evening, we head down to the bar cart, grab some beers, and chat to a pair of Japanese travellers. One of them had been to the same hostel at Lake Bunyonyi and had ordered the infamous Pad Thai. So distressed was she by the quality of it that she went into the kitchen and taught the chefs how to cook it properly.

    At random points through the night, and the following days, the train stops for extended periods. Sometimes these will be at stations, sometimes in the middle of the wilderness, for no obvious reason.

    After a day and a half, in the dead of night, we reach the Zambian border. The customs guards come in and issue our visas. After that, a money changer comes in to change our money. We had tried to change in Dar Es Salaam, but nowhere dealt in Zambian Kwacha, so this guy is our only hope, and he knows it. His rate is eye-wateringly bad, so we just change the bare minimum to afford the last few train drinks and meals.

    After 48 hours, the train still hasn't arrived, and we're starting to get a bit restless. Not only that, but Katie is starting to get a bit sick. Fortunately, the compartment next to us is occupied by a Zambian doctor, and she advises us to go to hospital when we arrive. Fortunately, it doesn't turn out to be anything too serious.

    As the journey stretches endlessly onward, the bar starts running out of cold drinks, then we start running out of water. The taps turn off. At one point, someone starts banging on the door of our carriage's toilet, telling the occupier to stop using the water for bathing. Sure enough, we find out that someone has used all the water, which is also used to flush the squat toilet. Tempers are starting to fray.

    Very early the next morning, a full 63 hours after we had left Dar Es Salaam, we reach our destination- New Kapiri Mposhi. Which is not Lusaka. We have to then split a taxi to take us the remaining 200 kilometres to Lusaka. Three hours later, after a mammoth journey across Africa, we've arrived. It's been exhausting, but an adventure in itself. We've crossed 2,000 km across this continent, and we're ready to start exploring southern Africa.
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  • Day6

    Linksverkehr und Großstadtverkehr

    June 12, 2019 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Wir haben nun unser eigenes Auto. Blöd nur dass man immer auf der falschen Seite einsteigen möchte und dauernd der Scheibenwischer statt der Blinker angeht.
    Die erste Stunde war ganz schön herausfordernd:
    Ein großes Auto, viel Verkehr, Kreuzungen ohne Ampeln. Keine klaren Vorfahrtsregeln und überall fussgaenger auf der Straße.
    Wir haben es ohne Unfall und Geisterfahrt aus der stadt geschafft.
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  • Day12

    Auf der Polizeiwache

    June 18, 2019 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Dreimal an einem Tag mit dem Gesetz in Konflikt gekommen, einen Polizisten auf der Rückbank im Auto und dann am Ende auf dem Polizeirevier...

    Doch von vorne:
    Geschwindigkeitskontrollen gibt's rund alle 100 km hier. Meistens wurden wir auch nicht angehalten, weil wir wohl die Höchstgeschwindigkeit eingehalten hatten. Das Problem ist nur, man weiß meistens gar nicht wie schnell man fahren darf. Die Beschilderung ist mehr als unvollständig. Nun ja es hat uns zweimal erwischt auf der Strecke von Livingstone nach Lusaka - die Strafe von in Summe 40,-€ ist noch verkraftbar. Das freundliche Verhandeln, das Land loben etc. ist man mittlerweile gewohnt. Unser zweites Auto kam deshalb immer ohne Strafe davon.

    Neben den Geschwindigkeitskontrollen gibt's häufig Polizeikontrollen auf offener Straße. Sie werden durch alte Ölfässer signalisiert. Manchmal blinkt auch noch ein selbst gebasteltes Blaulicht oben drauf. Hier kamen wir immer ohne Probleme mit freundlichen Grüßen durch.

    In Lusaka wollten wir dann auf einer vierspurigen Strasse mit chaotischem Verkehr wenden. Das war dann einem Polizisten wohl doch zu viel und er stoppte uns. Erst wollte er mitten auf der Straße den Führerschein sehen, dann wollte er einsteigen, obwohl wir schon zu fünft im Auto waren - nun ja, eng zusammen gepresst auf dem Schoß sitzend passte auch noch der Polizist rein (auf dem heimlich aufgenommenen Foto mit dunklem Gesicht einigermaßen erkennbar). Er erklärte, dass wir nun zur Polizeiwache fahren sollen. Artig folgten wir den Anweisungen - ohne zu wissen wo es hin geht und in der Hoffnung dass wir am Abend nicht im Gefängnis sein werden. Es ging quer durch belebte Märkte und endete in einer kleinen Polizeiwache. Nach viel Smalltalk über Sambia und Deutschland kam dann die Forderung über rund 150 €. Es gelang dann auf 50€ herunter zuhandeln, was ja auch schon ganz schön viel Geld für afrikanische Verhältnisse ist. Nach einer Quittung fragte ich nicht mehr - auch wenn das Geld vermutlich im Privatgeldbeutel der Polizisten landen dürfte - leider traurige Realität und ein großes Problem in Afrika.

    Immerhin wir durften weiter fahren und wir landeten nicht im Gefängnis.
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Lusaka Province

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