SE Asia Dream Trip 23’

September - December 2023
Backpacking 🇻🇳 🇰🇭 🇹🇭 🇸🇬 🇮🇩 🇳🇿
Jeroen & Charly ❤️
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  • 59footprints
  • 6countries
  • 118days
  • 792photos
  • 86videos
  • 50.5kkilometers
  • 43.5kkilometers
  • 1.6kkilometers
  • 763kilometers
  • 158sea miles
  • 256kilometers
  • 152kilometers
  • 51sea miles
  • 88kilometers
  • 22sea miles
  • 33kilometers
  • 23kilometers
  • Day 5

    Bikes Rental & Last Evening in Hanoi

    September 8, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    This morning we took the opportunity to enjoy some “ European” Breakfast one last time for a while and got Croissants at a local bakery - almost as good as Paris. Then we made our way to Zip Bike Rental to get ourselves some bikes for the next part of the trip to the North. A big boy bike for Jeroen and a semi automatic bike for Charly. First time trying out the bike for Charly was a bit scary and overwhelming with the traffic, but made it home safely. Charly’s bike did run out of fuel in the middle of the road which was a bit stressful but a kind Vietnamese man helped to get it to the next fuel station. Very sweaty and exhausted we did a stop at home to enjoy the AC and a cold water. Then we were on our way into the Centre for Dinner. We had some Bahn Xeo, a version of pancakes that are rolled into rice paper - very yummy. After we enjoyed some ice cream while walking around the Hoa Kiem lake. There seems to be a festival starting tonight / tomorrow in association with the UK so the roads were closed. The intersection is very famous for being being very busy so it was surreal to just walk in the street. There were some music performances and rehearsals as well as a food market - Charly was brave and tried some fresh Durian: tastes better than it smells. Now we are enjoying a great view from a sky bar. Tomorrow we will leave before lunch to drive in the direction of Sa Pa in the North.Read more

  • Day 6

    Driving North

    September 9, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We left our lovely apartment in Hanoi this morning. We really loved it so we might consider going back there for one nights hen we return the bikes in 2 1/2 weeks.
    When getting our bikes ready it did feel like all the sunscreen was just running down our bodies in rivers, extra sweaty day. Getting out of Hanoi to the outskirts took about in hour in busy traffic, not so enjoyable but a necessary evil. Still it was amazing to see how the chaos of traffic is in a way less scary and disorganized when you’re part of it. Overall not as bad as expected, but still proud we made it. Getting further and further away from Hanoi the roads became less busy and greener. It was really special to be able to see it from that perspective. Going past a river there were many fields being worked on specifically for corn harvest, you can really appreciate how basic most peoples lives are. When going through a village we took a stop to drink something and especially Jeroen was stared at as the “super tall Dutch man”.
    We didn’t see any other western tourists soon our journey so of course there was some interest from Locals, also some asking us where we’re from at the traffic light. After 3.5 hours we finally made it to our home stay. It’s in a gorgeous jungle area by a lake, such a stark difference to the busy streets of Hanoi. We received a warm welcome and a cold beer. We had the opportunity to go out on the lake with a kayak. It was so serene being the only people out there, the only sounds coming from our paddles and wildlife. A good moment to reflect on how lucky we are to see this beautiful place. After a well deserved shower we had a feast prepared by the family, with many special “ chay “ veggie options for Charly. We didn’t really know what most of it was but it was tasty. We wanted to enjoy some peace and quite sitting on a romantic bench by the lake, however the neighbor was doing a very loud ( and more passionate than talented) karaoke performance so we went to our cabin. Karaoke is very very popular in Vietnam so this will probably one of many times we will hear that. We have a long day of driving ahead tomorrow to make it to Sa Pa so
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  • Day 7

    Breakfast with a view

    September 10, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Cassava cake with bean coconut filling and noodle soup. It’s very common in Vietnam to have this type of warm breakfast. This portion could probably feed 4 people though :D

  • Day 7

    Drive to Sa Pa

    September 10, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    After a warm breakfast we were on the road again, 200km to Sa Pa in the Mountains. It was the first time it rained, but not long or hard so we felt comfortable to ride. The weather forecast says most days it will rain and one can often see lightening in the clouds, but nothing actually happens. So a case of ignore the forecast and walk outside. We drove through many small villages and past pastures, it’s really special to be able to see the way most people really live. Some streets are better than others, some potholes coming a big unexpected. We even saw a couple water buffalos by the road. A lot of people stare and children wave, overall a positive reception. Charly is feeling more confident with the bike, and had some fun riding through the sloping curves going up and down hills. It was a long time in the “saddle” so our bums did need some blood flow and stretching breaks occasionally. The scenery completely makes up for it, lush green hills and a big river we were following. You still see the communist influence even in the smallest villages, with Vietnamese and sickle hammer flags everywhere, and posters.
    Unfortunately google led us astray a bit in the last town before Sa Pa, so we lost some time and it was already tight to make it before dusk. So we had to drive up the winding mountain road to Sa Pa (1500m) in fading light and dark. Probably not what any mother wants to picture (sorry) but we just went slow and steady. We were very relieved when we made it into town and our hotel. Sa Pa looks like a mix of Hanoi and a Alpine village, with a million “Christmas lights”. After a well deserved shower we had dinner and treated ourselves to a massage.
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  • Day 8

    A day in Sa Pa and Cat Cat

    September 11, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After a slightly shorter sleep than we would have liked due to some construction next to our hotel we were ready to start the day. Originally the plan was to hike up Fansipan, the biggest mountain in Indochina with 3147m. Charly was very excited about that, but due to the fact we arrived in Sa Pa at almost 20:00 after a 6h ride the previous day and we hadn’t booked a guide yet, we decided that we wouldn’t do the hike. As an alternative to the 9h hike one can take the new cable car up the mountain, which was a good enough alternative. Charly was really disappointed to hear that unfortunately the cable car and furnicular were under maintenance for 5 days, so there was no way we could make it to the peak of Fansipan. In a way it made us feel less bad for not doing the hike, since we would have only done it one way taking the cable car down anyway. With Fansipan in the clouds but otherwise great weather we did a walk through the city, to a lookout foto point ( for the Instagram pictures) and then to Cat Cat village. In total we walked 12km up and down to The Valley so in a way we did our own hike. We hiked down to Cat Cat village in The Valley, which is a must see when in Sa Pa. in the Sa Pa there is an ethnic minority called the Hmong people, who are famous for their brocade weaving and unfortunately in Sa Pa for letting their children beg. There was a steep entry fee and the beginning part was really touristy with souvenir shops. Further in the village we could walk through rice fields thiugh and past a river with water wheels. It was rice harvest time so we could observe that as well. There were many picture spots and we were really lucky to have a relatively clear day. The downside of that was burning sun and little to no shade. Overall we were happy we went even though its very commercialized and you even need to pay for a toilet visit. We were so exhausted we took a taxi ride back up to Sa Pa. There was an entry Apple health said we had burned 1000kcal working out so we had a nice dinner at a vegan restaurant and some spaghetti. After we enjoyed another massage. Vietnamese massage involves a lot of “hitting “ to increase blood flow which at first is a bit silly and not so relaxing but our muscles were happy. For reference a 60 min massage is usually around 18€.Read more

  • Day 9

    Cinnamon Lodge & on the road again

    September 12, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    We started our journey from Sa Pa to a place Jeroen holds dear, the Cinnamon Lodge. The weather was perfect, no rain and a nice sun in the beginning. Later it was a bit more cloudy, however that was such a refreshment as the Vietnamese sun can be quite harsh. The journey was smooth overall. On the way we took some pictures, which we will treat you with :)

    The cinnamon lodge and their host gave us a warm welcome (again for Jeroen). We stayed at a recently built lodge up the cinnamon farm, which was incredible. We had dinner with the family, including an infinite amount of rice whine. Next to that we were treated with a light show, as it started pouring down.

    We relaxed a bit, had a great dinner and an amazing sleep.

    Oh and ps: Charly cheated by buying a pillow for her bum.
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  • Day 10

    Cinnamon Harvest

    September 13, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Before leaving on Wednesday we had the opportunity to see the cinnamon farm. It has been in their family for 20 years, built up by the father after fleeing north from the War. We also had some cold cinnamon ginger honey tea which was so tasty.
    Many people don’t know that cinnamon is the inside bark from the cinnamon tree. They can harvest them after the trees are 5 years old and are cut until they are 20. When the bark is cut the tree dies and is cut down, so they put the seedlings closer together on a hill and then cut them at different ages to make space. The harvest is done by hand in 45cm long pieces. The bark is then peeled off the tree which we were allowed to try. It smelled heavenly and tasted like fresh cinnamon. It’s harder than it looks. You try to not break any pieces because that gives less money. They get 2USD$ per kg. The bark is then dried for 1 day in the sun and rolls up. To get the brown rolls we are used to they need to do an additional step and shave the bark, which we also tried. So a lot of work goes into it. As you can see we were quite sweaty. Then the shaved bark is left to dry for 3 days and gives a yield of 7USD$ per kg. The stems of leaves are edible too and used to make cinnamon oil.
    We were given a few rolls of cinnamon and honey to make tea on the way.
    It was a really unique experience.
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  • Day 11

    A relaxing day at No Madders Hostel

    September 14, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    After a few days of driving we decided to have a day off. The nomadders Hostel is owned by a British Man so we had the opportunity to eat some western food and played some games with other guests. It was a bit rainy so we didn’t go into the pool as often as expected but the temperature was a relief after some hot humid days.
    Tomorrow we are off to start the famous Há Giang loop.
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  • Day 12

    Ha Giang Loop Day 1

    September 15, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After leaving Ha Giang making our way up the mountain we were told by locals that the police was up ahead. But there was really no alternative route and we had expected to be stopped by police at some point because they do like stopping tourists in that popular area 🤑
    Because we had once been stopped but then let go in Hanoi we thought “ why not play dumb and drive past” unfortunately they followed and stopped us and we had to go back to their checkpoint station. After waiting for a while we were charged with 2 m Dong per person ( 80€) for not having a valid motorcycle license. However this is just a ruse, as even tourists with a motorcycle license need to pay between 500000 and 2 m, most tourists we talked to haggled it down to 1.5m but since we “ didn’t follow orders” we just went with it. The police chief had a nice big briefcase full of tourist money. Cause we didn’t have enough, Jeroen had to drive half and hour to the next ATM. Of course you can’t get a receipt but allegedly you only have to pay once per loop, we will see. Despite the roads being pretty busy with tourists we really enjoyed the beautiful views of the rugged mountains, so different to any place elsewhere. A bit later than expected we arrived in our next hostel, which apparently was a popular party hostel for group tours. Dinner was shared with lots of “ happy water” and karaoke.

    By chance wr had our action camera running when we were pulled over so we will add that video to the post later.
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