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Phil Merrell

Phil Merrell

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    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter
      Temple of Diana
      Temple of DianaDude in a Nearby RuinHis BuddyThe Dama's of the Virgin Wear White on EasterHometown Easter ProcessionRoman Villa TileMore Roman Villa TileGladiators We Are NotTheaterTheaterEaster DinnerWell/Cistern for the Muslim FortressInside the Roman/Visgoth/Muslim/Christian FortressThe Roman Bridge Over the Guadiana River

      Easter

      April 20 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      We took a tour of Mérida this morning, to get the lay of the land. Merida is all about ancient Roman culture and ruins. It was founded, among other reasons, as a retirement community for Roman soldiers who had finished their service. The archaeological joke is that it was the Florida of the Roman Empire.

      Right off the bat we ran into an Easter procession. It was definitely less formal and more of a small town event than the processions we saw in Càceres. But those involved were serious. It appeared to be an important and emotional event for this community.

      Saw a relatively well preserved Roman villa that showed some detail of daily life in the day and had some beautiful tile work. Saw some bathes, the circus (racetrack), amphitheater (gladiators), and the incredible theatre.

      It is a custom here to dine out on Easter. Of course we had no reservations and everything was full. We found a nice restaurant that allowed us to sit at one of their tapas tables and dug into a long lunch of interesting dishes and local wine. Afterwards we walked down to the park along the river, saw more historic things, went home and went to bed.      Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter
      1
      1

      On To Mérida

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      Said goodbye to Càceres and got on a train to Mérida. About a half hour ride south. Weather is improving, but still it’s spring. Not much exciting to say. We got settled in to our new digs, ate, and spent the night relaxing.Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter
      1Rained out early morning procession
      Setting up for a processionLeft turn gateOldThe Star ChamberCàceres Old City StreetCàceres Old City Streets

      Good Friday (updated)

      April 18, Mediterranean Sea ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      So we actually got up at 6:30 this morning and went out to watch the special procession through the old city that I mentioned in the last post. Aaand… rained out! Not really pouring, but they are naturally pretty careful with their centuries old icons. Interestingly, if they cancel taking the icon out, they still carry the icon marching in place in the church for the same amount of time the route would have taken. No slacking off just because it rained!

      So we walked around, had pastries and coffee, and just relaxed. Went to the excellent Museum of Càceres, saw yet another procession forming up, had lunch, and walked and walked. All of f the processions I know of were cancelled today.

      Càceres is a really nice small city. Tomorrow we take a 1/2 hour train ride to Mèrida. It’s a lot smaller than Càceres and has a lot of Roman ruins. A couple more days of dicy weather and then it’s supposed to dry out.

      UPDATE: I added a couple of photos forgot to include. We came across a poster for a Penitent Pub Crawl, with map and all. I guess they’re making sure they have sufficient sin for the penitence they are going to do?      Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter
      Old CityA Penitent for the Virgin Mary ProcessionThe Virgin Mary procession coming through the main squareThe Last SupperLast SupperLast SupperLast SupperAngel of the EucharistAngel of the Eucharist - Mostly Teenage BearersVirgin MaryAfter dinner encounter with the Passion Story processionA PenitentThe GardenThe ScourgingCrucifixtionDamas for the Virgin Mary

      Holy Thursday

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Getting our sea legs now in this new time zone. Did I mention that I don’t do jet lag well? Went out wandering in the old city after breakfast. Visited a 12th century Arab home restored into a museum. Got down to the main square to see parts of a procession for the Last Supper, the Angel of the Eucharist , and the Virgin Mary. This time we sussed out a good location ahead on the route and had a good view. It became clear how important this is to the people involved and the people watching.
      After dinner we went out for a walk and encountered another procession portraying the rest of the Passion of Christ; the garden, arrest , scourging, and crucifixion. We stayed and watched, you couldn’t get through the crowds and past the procession if you wanted.
      Then, walking home we ran into the crowds and another procession for the Virgin Mary. They just kept coming!
      There is a procession starting just after midnight tonight, and one starting at 5:00 AM inside the old city that’s supposed to be impressive. We’re going to try to get up in time to catch the tail end of it. We’ll see if that works out! If we miss it there are 3 more after that.      Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter
      In the old city
      Rained Out

      Càceres Day 3

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Long sleep again last night. Mostly recovered from the voyage here. Wandered around enjoying the old city buildings and walls. Off and on rain showers as the day progressed. Cooked up a big pasta dinner before heading out for the evening’s holy week processions… which were rained out. Apparently the rain in Spain stays mainly on the plain.Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter
      Estrella Arch, or Star Gate
      Menu del Dia!Typical Caceres Street Scene During Holy WeekProcession, but can't get closeRelight!Later, from our balcony

      Càceres Recovery Day

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      After a 10 hour sleep of the dead we’re up and stumbling! Low expectations for this travel recovery day. We’re staying just outside the walls of the old city. Wandered around, got some lunch, bought groceries, got a local sim for my phone. So now I can post up these reports.
      We planned this trip to Spain and Portugal to start a few weeks later. When we realized Easter is late this year, we decided to go earlier and catch the tradition and pageantry of Easter in Spain. The holy week involves religious processions through the city, day and night. We tried to see one of them tonight, but were way back in the crowd. We chased around trying to get ahead of it, but never guessed the right streets. We finally gave up and headed home around 10:30. Just before going to bed, the procession came marching up our street and we got a great view from the balcony! The crowd was much reduced nearer to midnight. The attached clip is a small portion of the procession. The procession of penitents (white hats) was several times longer than what is shown. The statues being carried reside in churches and are brought out on a few holy days each year. It’s quite a tradition and the amount of effort and coordination involved is impressive.      Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerThey’re Back! Spanish Easter

      Getting There

      April 13 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      Well, it wasn’t the worst departure we have inflicted on ourselves, but it was up there. Too many irons in the fire. Up late packing, up before 5 to drive to Pasco to start the airline/time zone change punishment process. Three flights, a train ride, 29 hours and we’re in Càceres, Spain. Beautiful train ride. The countryside is gorgeous green right now. Straight to bed.Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerCamino 2023

      And Home!

      November 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Went out for breakfast and then walked around the neighborhood for a while. Preparing to plug in to the 20+ hours of transit time coming up. It’s been a different camino than I planned for, but it’s been great to get out walking, some time for solitary reflection, and a chance to meet some new friends.Read more

    • Phil MerrellTravelerCamino 2023
      Pension in Cuenca Built on Rock Face
      Church of the Virgen of LightNow That's a Hamburger!

      Cuenca to Madrid

      November 8, 2023 in Spain

      Walked a circuit around the old town this morning. It’s really impressive. Enjoying my last morning out and about. After lunch I caught a high speed train to Madrid . It’s sure a nice way to travel!

      Went out for my last dinner in Spain tonight in Madrid. The Spanish make the best hamburgers and I have been wanting one for a while. My flight home is tomorrow.      Read more

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