An open-ended adventure by Julie Read more
Currently traveling
  • 15footprints
  • 4countries
  • 55days
  • 123photos
  • 0videos
  • 9.0kkilometers
  • Day 15

    Alta Day two

    April 7 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -9 °C

    There are some things now that I reflect on that I realise you have to do when you are in this part of the world. In part I have been reluctant because they are expensive and don't sound all that engaging and potentially uncomfortable because of the cold. It is very hard to describe in words the experience you have with these excursions. I need to worry less about the cost and simply immerse myself in what we are doing.

    After last night getting back so late we now have to get up early for our next excursion. I must confess that my enthusiasm for more snow and ice was not very high. Early is made more challenging when you have to go through the getting ready for ice and snow ritual. Thermal under garments, water proof pants, layer under the jacket, gloves, warm socks, shoes and headwear. Then decide what you need to take, phone in one pocket, camera in the other. Thankfully the jacket is waterproof. Backpack for anything else. Sometimes walking pole other times crampons.

    The day did not look particularly promising overcast, but at least it wasn't raining. Bob as always is very positive about everything we are doing. I was initially not even sure this was an excursion I was interested in. Short bus ride again through beautiful countryside, snow-covered trees and mountains in the distance. If nothing else, the view is worth the trip.

    My weariness dissipates the moment we get out of the vehicles and begin the process of learning about walking in and putting on snowshoes . Here we are again in a pristine almost wilderness area. We have one dog with us who will pull a sled with ' supplies'. The plan is to walk for about 45 minutes (this is what I was most interested in) and then go ice fishing , not something high on my list of must do activities. The walking is very good exercise, for a start snowshoes feel like you have a small snowboard attached to each foot except with the disadvantage that there are spikes underneath so you can grip the snow which means you can't slide. By the time we we get back to the vehicles, I feel I have mastered the art of walking in snowshoes. The path is up and down through fresh snow, snow we drove through last night. The day is bright however and we have no wind making it very pleasant.

    It seemed like quite a long strenuous walk before we arrived at the frozen lake. Here we are in the middle of a forest surrounded by snow and snow-cap mountains and in front of us is a frozen lake where we are going to fish. We're instructed to pick up a reindeer skin, we will need this to sit on the snow while we wait for fish to bite. Our guide provides instruction on how to create a hole in the snow in order to fish. First, you shovel out the top layer of snow until you reach the ice, you then take a hand operated ice drill and drill through the ice which is about a meter thick. Now you can see the water, but you must scoop out the slush on top to make sure the water doesn't freeze over, it is still below zero. Next you take a tiny maggot. Attach it to a hook on a very small, almost childlike toy fishing line. The line is dropped 5 m into the ice hole you have created with your poor frozen maggot on the end of it. Now you sit on the reindeer skin and wait. It was a much more entertaining experience than I had thought despite the freezing cold. Three of us managed to create a small fishing hole and much to our and probably everyone's surprise we caught a very small fish. It was smaller than a sardine and already dead when I pulled it out. The guide, I'm not really sure how, managed to gut this tiny fish. Our sled dog meanwhile is having a great time in the snow. He runs to the edge of the lake and back checking out anything he can smell along the way.

    Beside the lake, there is a traditional Sami structure with two fires inside, seats around the fires which we now place our reindeer skins on, it's freezing. Throughout Norway there are numerous huts and structures like this one, they may belong to someone or to a company, but there is an understanding amongst the Norwegians that anyone can use them at any time so long as they do not damage them. That isn't surprising given how harsh the climate is, it's understandable that you want to make sure people have shelter should they need it in winter. We are offered coffee and cake, for me the most delicious dark chocolate. Our tiny fish is cooked in a little butter in a pan over the fire. It is cut up and shared between the eight of us who are on the excursion. Even though we have only a small taste, it is in fact a very nice tasting fish.

    Hot drinks are served in a 'parasite' cup. Folds down, keep it in your pocket and bring it out when when someone has something you might like. And we get to keep them.
    Read more

  • Day 18

    Tromsø back where we started

    April 10 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Another look at Tromso and farewell to the Arctic again. Time to think about packing and the next journey. We will have to be off the ship by 8:30 so our cases need to be packed tonight and left out to be collected.

    We did not choose our excursion for the day very well, definitely the worst of the trip. On a scale of 1 to 10 where 10 is great, I would rank this zero. It seemed like a good idea at the time. An inflatable fast boat with an outdoor motor better suited to Wanaka, New Zealand rather than Tromso. On top of that the weather is overcast and raining. We have little information as to what to expect. We have to first climb into some safety gear, which if we fall in the water and with a life preserver we will be able to be retrieved.

    The RIB but it takes us out around the various islands around Tromso. I feel sorry for the French because they cannot hear the driver and even if they could his commentary is very difficult to understand because of his accent. It is a seriously unpleasant excursion for which we have paid quite a lot of money. Grateful for the fact that the French are very good at complaining, so I don't expect it will continue to be on the itinerary. It's freezing cold and I spend most of the journey with my head in my hands behind the driver to protect myself from the weather. I think everybody is relieved when it's all over.

    It is disappointing to end the trip in this way. However, we have had some excellent excursions and one bad one is okay.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Time to go

    April 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    Up early for breakfast, final scan of the cabin before we leave and onto the bus.We are looked after well and taken on a bus ride around Tromso. It comes to mind that it would have been better had we had this on the first day. We do have clear skies but that is due to change later in the afternoon but by then will be gone. We have an excellent guide and I can't help but reflect on how much information and the quality of information we get compared with yesterday.

    We take a cable car to the top of a peak just outside Tromso. Fantastic scenery! Coffee is available with some cinnamon scroll reportedly very sweet. A local delicacy no doubt. There is still time to drive over one of the breaches which can be impossible when there is strong wind. The bus takes us to a point where we can see the lake and again have a panoramic view over this part of Tromso. I am a little concerned as Bob decides of course to walked to the edge where there is serious ice and we are not wearing crampons, they have been packed. Never know what you might need in Melbourne

    We have plenty of time and get to the airport where we say farewell to our Brisbane traveler. Next stop Paris
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Paris (April 11,12 &13)

    April 11 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I sleep much of the flight. What I have put down to being being hay fever is in fact a cold which has now gone to my chest so I have a bacterial infection. Bob urges me to start a course of antibiotics but I really want to be sure by the next day I am sure. I have no appetite which is not a bad thing given the food we have had. I managed to eat a little bit of breakfast, no lunch and sleep for part of the afternoon. We do go out for dinner and have an excellent St Emillion wine, not a whole bottle though.

    The next day I'm feeling quite a bit better and we had planned to go to Sacre Coeur it's quite close, within walking distance of where we are staying. However, what is most pressing is to get train tickets in particular to get us back to Charles de Gaulle airport from Gare du Nord. We've decided we will take the train rather than a taxi. Not for reasons of cost, but more of convenience. Not cheap €63 each for a three day pass but at least we won't have the hassle of queuing up for tickets.

    Parisian style (and pricing) we sit outside for another coffee and then head off to Sacre Coeur. I feel I'm doing quite well but when we get there I decide I will stay down the bottom whilst Bob takes the funicular to the top. Of course he wants to take photos from the best vantage point.

    It is a glorious spring day in the low twenties and we are in Paris. I wait by the carousel made famous by the movie Amélie I can hear a violin being played. I think they are playing Vivaldi 'Spring'. I watch the crowds moving up and down the different paths. It is looking quite green and Spring like with the trees and blossom. I'm trying to see where Bob is, he's wearing a red jacket, canvas hat and carrying a green camera case so should be easy. I do eventually find him coming back down. It is very crowded of course. A group of American boys pass and one asks why are they going to another church, guess they haven't watched the movie.

    Walking in Paris is always interesting and we walk back a different way. Unfortunately the antibiotics I am taking make me feel nauseous so although I try to eat dinner the meal and the wine are a waste.

    The next day out again to see how the repairs on Notre Dame are progressing. It has been 18 months since we were last here so should be interesting. Plan is to find the lifts as well at the station and take the RER. Paris is again gloriously Spring like, no problems with the lifts. The Cathedral still has significant scaffolding around it but much of the roof has been replaced. We have learned from a previous experience that if you want anything to eat or drink it is better to find a side street away from the cathedral, fewer people and cheaper. Coffee is good and we walk around the area a little more before heading back to the hotel.

    I can't even face food so I pack while Bob eats. We fly to Valletta in the morning
    Read more

  • Day 22–25

    Malta our last stop

    April 14 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Walking through Valletta the first time I am reminded of Venice. It seems like everybody here is a tourist, of course, including us. Is it like Venice where nobody actually lives in the city apart from the tourists? Turns out that's not quite correct. When you look over the harbor you can see quite dense housing everywhere and although the main thoroughfare of Felicia is wall-to-wall tourist, you do still see locals. You also see evidence of apartments down the many tiny, narrow side streets with their balcony windows built out over the street.

    Malta is such an ancient historic place built on sandstone which is still being quarried. Historically it can be traced back to Neolithic times. Christianity was brought to Malta by the Romans in 60 AD, then came the Arabs, the Normans and for a while Malta was controlled by Sicily. The French were here for a brief period of time before Malta requested help from the English and evidence of that time until Independence is everywhere. It is however still very much both a European country and yet British. They are in the EU and euro is the currency.The cars drive on the left and English and Maltese are the two official languages. The Maltese language derives from its early Arabic roots. It is hard to escape the influence of the Catholic church. Church spiers can be seen everywhere. They must have been significant wealth because the churches are very ornate.

    Our hotel is very well located in the center of Valletta and we have a balcony overlooking some of the city's spectacular buildings. We have been advised to seek out the gardens close to the hotel and we go there for our morning coffee every day. The gardens sit at the top of the hill of which there are many, overlooking the stunning harbor and bays. This place has been a fortress for centuries and battlements are everywhere clearly to defend the country. The first day, over coffee we hear the sound of cannon fire, which scattered the vast number of pigeons that live in this small garden. The 12:00 salute is undertaken everyday where one cannon is fired by an officer in a British army uniform. Originally the cannon signalled it was mid day so sips could keep accurate time.

    Bob takes a tour of the bunkers and war rooms. Used by different armies including NATO. It might be a very small country in the Mediterranean but it's strategic. Unsurprisingly I did not go on the tour.

    It is easy to see why Malta is so popular with tourists and it's relatively cheap. It is very pleasant walking the streets as we do the first couple of days. Just looking at the houses, buildings and churches. The only issue is Valletta is built on a hill and one concession for pedestrians is a lift at the bottom for €1. Haven't tried that yet but can see very well why it is necessary. I can't imagine any local becoming overweight here. Everyone would be fit.
    Read more