• Diane A
Apr – Jun 2022

Diane’s Camino Frances

A 57-day adventure by Diane A Read more
  • Trip start
    April 21, 2022
  • Barcelona

    April 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I have arrived in Barcelona. Check in at Sydney was easy and so was the arrival at Barcelona. They did check the SpTH QR code and looked at my Australian vaccination certificate but there were no queues and it was very smooth.
    Caught the aerobus and walked a few blocks to The Corner Hotel.
    The weather is a very pleasant 18 degrees. Looking forward to a good sleep and spending the next few days exploring.

    The Corner Hotel
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  • Barcelona

    April 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today was St George’s Day, the patron saint of Catalonia. There were lots of stalls selling roses and most people carried one - it was a bit like Valentine’s Day.

    I had a very interesting time walking around the city. I spent the morning at the Museu Nacional D’Art de Catalonia. It is a beautiful building with a great collection of medieval and more modern art and the views from the roof were spectacular.

    The weather was fine all morning but there were a few hail storms this afternoon which caused a bit of excitement at the outdoor cafes.

    The Corner Hotel
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  • Barcelona and Montserrat

    April 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I took a tour with a small group to Montserrat. It was great to see more of Barcelona. Montserrat was beautiful and with magnificent views.

    We then spent the afternoon exploring the Gothic Quarter and learning about the Roman past.

    The highlight though was La Sagrada Familia which is close to my hotel in the Eixample district. The Gaudi designed Basilica was amazing on the outside and breathtaking inside.

    The Corner Hotel
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  • Barcelona

    April 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I took my backpack as hand luggage so I wasn’t able to take my poles with me. But searching for a hiking store was a great way to see a lot of Barcelona by foot. I was hoping for a convenient cluster of stores like we have in Sydney behind the Town Hall but had to settle for Decathlon.

    I was able to see though Gaudi’s Casa Batlló as well a lot of very interesting buildings and alley ways. And some very realistic Lego reproductions of La Sagrada Familia and Park Güell.

    I will be sorry to leave Barcelona tomorrow but am excited to be finally heading for the start of my Camino.

    The Corner Hotel
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  • Barcelona-Pamplona-SJPdP

    April 26, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It was time to leave the Corner Hotel. I highly recommend it, especially if you book it early like I did and get a great rate. It was within walking distance to everything including Barcelona Sants to catch my train to Pamplona.

    It was a very relaxing trip through beautiful countryside. My plan was to find some other pilgrims and share a taxi with them from Pamplona to St Jean Pied de Port. However there were only four others on the train and they were going to Roncesvalles. So I joined them anyway and after much trial and error managed to find another group once there that were going to St Jean.

    Arrived in this beautiful town and it was just as I imagined it would be. Found my accommodation at Beilari and finally caught up with Sandra.

    A delicious dinner and the chance to meet some fellow pilgrims from all over.

    Beilari
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  • St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    April 27, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I spent the morning walking around St Jean and up to the Citadelle. Sandra had walked to Orisson the day before so I climbed up on my own. The views were magnificent and the weather was perfect for walking. Met up with Sandra and also more Australians including a couple from Cronulla.

    We had another enjoyable dinner and all 60 of us then gave a brief introduction about ourselves. So many interesting people from so many interesting places

    My room was bright and airy and with nine women and again no snorers - a pretty good night’s sleep.

    Refuge Orisson
    12kms
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  • Orisson to Roncesvalles

    April 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    A very, very misty day. We were unable to see more than a few metres in front of us for the entire walk. We could hear bells ringing on the cows and occasionally spotted a horse in the mist.

    The albergue in the monastery is surprisingly modern and only four to a bunk room.

    Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles
    22kms
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  • Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    April 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Quite a tough walk today with a very steep ascent and a really long and slippery descent. But the weather was again perfect and the countryside beautiful.

    Zubiri is very pretty. We were grateful we had already booked because everything is completely booked out and people have to move on to the next town after this tough day.

    El Palo de Avellano
    24kms
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  • Zubiri to Pamplona

    April 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We followed the River Arga for most of the day which was very pretty. Caught up with fellow pilgrims for an early lunch and coffee.

    Once we neared Pamplona though it was a very long 6km walk along paved paths which seemed to take forever to get to our hotel. Again we saw many pilgrims searching for accommodation as tomorrow is May Day and everything was booked out.

    I have a private room tonight which should revive and refresh me.

    After a quick rest Sandra and I bumped into Andy and we had some great pinxos and vino tinto. There were people everywhere celebrating the bank holiday weekend.

    Sercotel Hotel Europa
    26kms
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  • Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    May 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The walk out of Pamplona was flat and very pretty. We steadily climbed to Alto de Perdon and the view from there was worth all the effort. There was then a very steep descent but after 20 minutes it became a little gentler.

    The route was crowded and noisy as it seemed many locals took advantage of the beautiful weather and May Day. And it was a bonus to have half a dozen older Spanish men singing national songs all the way down, it made the time pass in a very special way.

    I have my first top bunk but in a room of just four. And with a window that opens right above me!

    Hotel Jakue
    25kms
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  • Puente la Reina to Estella

    May 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I had a great night’s sleep. I was able to leave before 7am and had a quick coffee and pastry in the town before breakfast.

    It was so enjoyable to walk while it was early and fresh. My body and mind seemed to finally click into gear today and the walking was much easier. I was able to enjoy everything more and not worry about how far I still had to go.

    The fields are covered in yellow flowers and the paths were lined with bright red poppies and yellow dandelions. There is always something interesting to see.

    Tomorrow is my rest day so I booked a single room in the hostel. It is on the top floor and has double windows that open out onto the square. I have done my washing and was able to microwave vegetables and added some tuna for protein at last. A perfect end to this day!

    Alda Estella
    23km
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  • Estella

    May 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Estella has been the perfect place for a rest day. It’s a quiet town with interesting shops to browse in. You can’t buy anything because you will have to carry it - a great incentive not to spend.

    The joy of unlimited hot showers!

    The temperature is a little cooler today but I posted my thermals back home - I had brought them in case the snow was still on the Pyrenees, but luckily didn’t need them.

    I have spent a leisurely afternoon napping and reading and then Sandra and I met up for a delicious and more nutritious dinner.

    I am looking forward to starting off again in the morning.

    Alda Estella
    5kms
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  • Estella to Los Arcos

    May 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A very different countryside today. More mountainous and rugged looking.

    I stopped at the infamous wine fountain in Irache and walked through miles of vineyards.

    The last 12kms were without towns to break up the trip which made it seem much longer than it was.

    Los Arcos is a small town and very peaceful. I was in early after an early start so was able to get a bottom bunk.

    I had the communal dinner here which was healthy and tasty. Lots of interesting people including Mike from Tasmania and a lovely lady called Rita from Belgium. She said she had a friend who lived in Sydney and it was Jenny Abraham!

    Albergue Casa de la Abuela
    22kms
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  • Los Arcos to Viana

    May 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Spain is hillier than I expected!

    It has been another day of vineyards and olive groves. I started off early again as it is so pleasant travelling while it is still fresh. This meant I arrived into Viana early and was able to get a pilgrim’s meal (paella, fish, ice cream and wine) before everything closed for the afternoon siesta.

    This is the first large dormitory that I have been in - 12 beds (6 bunks) in the one undivided room. At least I have a bottom bunk again.

    I spent some of the afternoon wandering around the town. There are so many very old and interesting buildings, I’ve really enjoyed my day here.

    Albergue Izar
    22kms
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  • Viana to Navarrete

    May 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Last night was noisy in the room and I didn’t sleep very well.

    I had another early start and enjoyed the walk to the outskirts of Logrono.

    The walk into Logrono, through Logrono and out of Logrono and onto Navarrete felt much different to the past few days. There were very little Camino signs - not many arrows, not many blue and yellow signs or indications of where to go or how much further. I had relied on them so far. The last few kilometres were through a freeway development.

    But once I arrived in Navarrete things improved. I have a lovely little single room in an albergue and was able to get a good pilgrim’s meal for lunch.

    Hopefully after a good sleep tomorrow will be another good day.

    Lots of people are having to walk on to the next town and are finding it difficult to get beds without a booking. I am now booking two nights in advance to be safe.

    Albergue el Cantaro
    23kms
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  • Navarrete to Azofra

    May 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I had a great night’s sleep. Albergue el Cantaro was perfect.

    We are now in La Rioja which is a wine area. And there are vineyards everywhere. And rolling hills. So it’s been quite pretty.

    Stopped in Najera and bought some pastries to eat in the park along the river for lunch. It was very busy with lots of families out as it was Saturday afternoon. There was an interesting display of weapons and uniforms by the military, I think it was a recruitment drive.

    I am spending the night in the municipal albergue and all the rooms have only two single beds in each which hopefully will give me another good night’s sleep.

    Albergue Azofra
    23kms
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  • Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    May 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    What a day! I left Azofra around 6.45 am before breakfast in anticipation of the treat I had at the end of the walk. The first nine kilometres were through some beautiful countryside, back to the yellow flowering fields. There was quite a climb to Ciruena where we discovered that there weren’t any cafes! So there was nothing to do but to continue straight onto Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

    I arrived there around eleven and went to check into my hotel - Parador Santo Domingo Bernardo de la Fresneda. I had discovered that if you join Parador Amigos that you could get a special spring rate of 65 euros and they also gave you a free breakfast voucher. A very kind person at the front desk let me check in early and gave me a double room which was the only one available at the time. It was bliss to have a hot shower and have some conditioner to put in my hair. It also has a bathtub which I used later.

    I had a relaxing ‘menu of the day’ in the square watching all the families out for Sunday lunch. I then went to the sister Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada to use the free drinks’ voucher they gave me. It will be a shock going back on the road tomorrow and back to an albergue tomorrow night. But what an experience!

    Parador Santo Domingo Bernardo de la Fresneda
    18kms
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  • Santo Domingo to Belorado

    May 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I had a late start due to my buffet breakfast at the Parodor!

    It was beautiful countryside today and lots of interesting towns along the way. I lost count of the times I said ‘wow’ to myself when I got to the top of a hill or around a bend.

    The last ten kilometres however were very hot and without any shade. I will try and leave a lot earlier to avoid the overhead sun.

    We have now left the wine country behind and are travelling through Castilla y Leon. There are lots of yellow arrows and clear signage which is a huge relief, it was often difficult to work out the correct path in La Rioja.

    I am in a large albergue but in a room with just four single beds. It has a pool and lots of younger pilgrims, much like Azofra. There’s a large cafeteria and lots of grass and tables and chairs outside to relax and socialise.

    Another very enjoyable day.

    Albergue de Peregrinos A Santiago
    24kms
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  • Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

    May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today was tough in many ways. I had an early start as there was no accommodation available to be booked in San Juan de Ortega so I had to hope I’d get to the municipal albergue before it was full.

    On my way to Espinosa del Camino I passed Sandra from Germany who we had met in Orisson. We chatted a bit and made plans to have dinner together in Burgos on Thursday night with the Australian Sandra. While I was having breakfast in Espinosa del Camino she arrived and in that short space of time she had news from home that her father had died and she was going home. She gave me her rock to carry on to the Cruz de Ferro. I continued on and it was hard to shake the sadness. But I was so pleased that I had bumped into her at just that time. The remainder of the walk was 12 kms without any towns and the last half without shade again. It is getting very hot in the afternoons now. There is rain forecast for the end of the week but still high temperatures.

    The good news is that I arrived at the albergue before it filled and even got a bottom bunk. It’s a large room with 11 bunk beds so might be a noisy night with 22 of us. But it’s clean and friendly and the shower was hot. I had a (wine free) communal pilgrim dinner and sat with a young woman who came from Stroud in Gloucestershire and it was a good end to the day.

    Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega
    24kms
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  • San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    May 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It was a lovely day of walking.

    Even though it was a crowded room last night I slept very well. People started moving about at 5.30 am so I was on the road by 6.15 am. Such a nice time to be walking as the sun is rising and the air is still cool.

    Lots of interesting towns today and sometimes there was even soft pillowy tufts of grass to walk on.

    The walk into Burgos, as in all the bigger towns so far, was long. And it was hot. By the time I arrived at 1.30pm it was 31 degrees which is unusually hot for this time of year.

    It is hard to remember to get enough cash out in the big towns to last. We are so used to using a card at home for everything - it’s the opposite here. So I had just 2 euros left when I arrived in Burgos.

    I am staying in a hotel here for two nights to rest and am looking forward exploring the town tomorrow.

    Hotel Norte y Londres
    28kms
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  • Burgos

    May 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I had a rest day today.

    I spent the morning at the Museum of Human Evolution which was really interesting. It explained a lot about the area of Atapuerca that I walked through yesterday. It is a World Heritage Site as it is where the remains of the first European inhabitant was discovered.

    I then went to the cathedral which is immense and is also a World Heritage Site.

    Sandra and I had Iunch together and were able to celebrate how far we’d come and commiserate about our poor feet.

    I loved Burgos and it was so good to have a break as tomorrow is the beginning of the Meseta and more very long stretches without shade.

    Hotel Norte y Londres
    8kms
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  • Burgos to Fuente Sidres

    May 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today was my toughest day yet. I started very early and it was foggy and cool, perfect for walking. But once the fog cleared it was hot!

    I was hoping to stop at Hornillos del Camino but there was no accommodation available. I was lucky enough to get a cancellation at Albergue Fuente Sidres. However it was another ten kilometres which made it a very long walk in the heat.

    But it has taken me very close to my next night’s stop so I will have an easy day tomorrow.

    This is the big disadvantage of the need to book ahead and not just stop when you’re tired or you like the town like my Camino friends at home did before Covid. You have to book so many night’s in advance that there is very little flexibility.

    But I am still grateful to be here and am still loving it.

    Albergue Fuente Sidres
    28kms
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  • Fuente Sidres to Castrojeriz

    May 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    It’s amazing what a good night’s sleep can do. Everyone in the albergue stayed in bed until seven am. I obviously wasn’t the only one who found yesterday hard. Had a leisurely breakfast in the garden before the fairly easy day. Some of my bunkmates helped me fix the blisters on my left foot and it helped a lot.

    Just before the first town of Hontanas as I gazed at everything around me I twisted my right foot and fell down with my full pack on. Luckily a couple were right behind me and were able to help me back up. My foot felt sore but not too bad and I was able to continue on. I arrived at the ruins at San Anton while a tourist bus of ‘Road Scholars’ were there. It was good not to feel envious of the luxury travel and was pleased with the way I was seeing things.

    I called into the first church in Castrojeriz and they had a very interesting display of wooden carvings from the 14th century. After leaving the church my foot became very painful and by the time I checked into the albergue I could barely put any weight on it. I hobbled down to the pharmacy and was given a compression bandage and ibuprofen. I am now icing and elevating it and hoping it will be better by the morning. The ankle seems fine, it is just swollen across the top of my foot. The pharmacist doesn’t think it is broken.

    We had a great communal dinner tonight and met some new people and caught up with some familiar faces. My foot is still very sore and I may need to catch a taxi tomorrow to Fromista and visit the medical centre (which hopefully will be open as it will be Sunday). But maybe the visit to the church will allow a miracle to happen and I will be healed!

    Albergue Rosalia
    13kms
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  • Castrojeriz to Fromista

    May 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    When I woke this morning my foot was swollen and more painful and it was obvious I wouldn’t be able to walk today. Lesley from Durham was also injured so we shared a taxi to the medical centre in Fromista.

    My foot is sprained and I have to stop walking for seven days. This is very disappointing but I was happy that I hadn’t broken anything. However the doctor said Lesley’s back injury was severe and she couldn’t keep walking and she will have to return home for treatment.

    We spent the morning looking at the churches and having a second and third breakfast while we waited to check into the albergue and for her travelling companions to arrive.

    We all then went for a long lunch and it unexpectedly ended up being a very enjoyable day.

    Albergue Luz de Fromista
    6 kms
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