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Colombo ho ho
  • David Coles
  • David Coles

Colombo ho ho

A 9-day adventure by David Read more
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  • Trip start
    December 23, 2023
    David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    2Ready to go
    1CNS lounge treeA Qantas tradition I look forward toLunch en routeA fizz I like a lot - now en piccolo!

    In the beginning

    December 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    All ready and waiting for the reserved Uber. It is very hot and steamy here at Holloways - useful prep for my week ahead. First stop an overnighter in Melbourne. Some weather on its way I see - probably catch out my packing decisions!! The uber was early and the traffic light. Airport security was a breeze and not too many in the lounge. Last time I was here with Kerry, we were both at our gates ready to board and the entire terminal has to evacuate and be rescreened - a massive exercise that was carried out in a more orderly manner than expected. I have just looked down at my suede boots and seen they have film of mould on them - have to love the wet tropics! Fixed that! The lounge is looking fuller now - mainly because Melbourne Phoenix are in the house - massive humans. Fresh from last night's game against the Snakes. Boarded and quickly into 2C. Upgraded and happy as - great start to a fair bit of travel. Lovely to have a fresh salad option - smoked salmon nicoise. It really was quite good and a perfect lunch. I do like Lois from Lane Vineyards #geddit and now it is in piccolo. I will update when I am in Melbourne - an airport hotel as I have a stupidoclock flight. Not so stupid when I share pics of SYD First Lounge!Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    11Room service

    Transit

    December 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    A very good flight and surprisingly a direct flight - unusual not having to bounce through Brisbane. Being rusted on Accor I am staying at Mantra Tullamarine. A suburb with views (?) - a long bow. I am also told - too far to walk to pay homage to the Bombers hanger. Oh well - perhaps when we are doing better the sweat will be worth it! Platinum is working today with a nice room and goodies in the room (+bottle of red). Nice and relaxed and early to bed. Cracking day in Melbourne. Uber from the airport is interesting - book it and from there it is like taxi - line up and take the next available. I like it. The burger was ok - the wine was free and tomorrow beckonsRead more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    31Standard orderClick click - love it!1Lounge views13A variation of the mice pie and...good coffee

    Still in Oz

    December 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Early run in downtown Tullamarine. The receptionist must have been a pies fan as the Bomber's Hanger wasn't a cab ride away - it was exactly next door so I was able to pay my respects and ask them to try a bit harder in 2024. An empty MEL lounge (it was stupid o'clock after all) and the SYD flight took off on time. 4D this time - too short a trip to bother with an upgrade. Landed 5 minutes early. Easy 3rd world bus transit to SYD International and as I had boarding passes a quick exercise through security. I bought a travel adapter and then up into the First Lounge. This place is special - only bettered by Singapore (see ya soon!) Really hope Kerry gets to enjoy it soon. Busiest I have seen it when I came in and they were under pressure - but truly professional like a top restaurant. Ayala champagne to start - my first try and decided I am not a fan - too much of a blanc de blanc for mine. So it is now Pommery - a true fave! My regular first lounge brekkie, salmon Benedict and it was excellent (perfect eggs). Found a window seat with a power plug and settled in for the morning. As I have said often - I don't mind sitting in an airport, I hate running in them! Boarding soon so see you in the Lion City!Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Little touchesArancini and Veuve CliquotSalmon entree - delish!Lake Eyre I thinkChilli Pork stir fry - I am filling up....The food has been excellent - inc some pyengana cheese - my abs fave!Lion cityQuick!!My happy place - Qantas First Lounge1What to eat?A_MAZE_ING1Neil's Signature dishThese BC choccies wouldn't survive the trip to the hotel from the airport in Colombo #melt

    Next leg

    December 24, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Boarded after a 45 minute delay due to a severe thunderstorm - they couldn't reload provisions or do safety checks. Into 3A -a lovely single window seat. A welcome glass of champagne and a goodie bag. I had forgotten international BC! Nothing quite like a lap sash either ( little things!) We then sat at the dock for another 30 mins while the delays cleared....then another 40 mins on the runway. The head steward has asked the pilot about my connection and he says it will be tight! It looks like I will have another run through Changi to catch my Colombo flight. No good worrying about something you have no influence over so I will enjoy the flight! This will be a long post and it is becoming a long day! The pilot put the boot in but it still only left me 40 mins to exit plane and get from T1 to T3 and find Gate B5. It was quite a hustle but I got there only to find no sign of my flight on the board. Found an info desk and learnt the Colombo flight has been delayed 3 1/2 hours! Oh well - I can now have some quality time in the Singapore First Lounge. Not like last time!! ..... I have been awake for many hours now and have a few to go. I won't arrive in Colombo until a couple of hours into Christmas Day. By the time I get to the hotel it will be half over! The food and wine in the lounge was super - magic wontons and Neil Perry's signature salt and pepper squid (just quietly - Straight on the Beach rates!!) Champagne Duvel Leroy also rates! See you on the other side!Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Daybreak from my balcony
    Galle RdCeylon butter and fruit jam (not pineapple)A passport stamp here as well #oldskool

    Nath.tha la in Ceylon

    December 25, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I wish a wonderful Nath.tha la to you all. This is the word for Christmas in sinhalese. I finally arrived at my hotel at 2.15am local time - that would have been 5.45am in Melbourne where I started at 3.45 the previous morning. The morning light still got me up and about early.
    It will be an early night tonight! My hotel is on Galle Rd in Wellawatta - a part of Colombo I have enjoyed on my previous trips. It is a buzzing area, heaving with character. My hotel isn't bad and has a balcony looking over Galle Rd (the main road south). I went to the sea and saw a train and managed to trap a tuktuk in a nice tropical setting. Back for brekkie - it was a set affair. The omelette, fruit (esp ripe papaya) was ok but I will see what else I can find tomorrow. I will stock up on some stuff soon. There is a really good supermarket very close (I have been there many times on other trips.) It has EVERYTHING including beer and wine.
    I hope you are all having an amazing Christmas Day - I see Fi started hers off well with the traditional salmon scrambled with keta! I am sure the rest of you are kicking along in style    Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Coconut wallah
    ExcitingPerfectBeautifully battered prawns and devilled cuttlefish

    The first day of Christmas

    December 25, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After breakfast went to the shop to stock up only to find no alcohol sales on 25th and 26th. Terrible thing seeing a grown man weep! Bought some stuff including some real marmite (as I do in Asia). Came back after a bit of a wander around - Galle Road is quieter today than the normal chaotic scene - mainly buses and tuktuks. I did some research and some bars and restaurants are open and can serve foreigners. I phoned a Mt Lavinia Beach restaurant and he told me to come on down. I will grab one of those tuktuks and spend the afternoon there. I was met there by someone who did a good job of making it look like he was expecting me. I strongly suspect this isn't where I am supposed to be but hey - the beach is great and the beer is cold! Had a nice seafood lunch and a couple of dips in the sea.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Wellawatte Cathedral
    Chilli omelette and curries2Wadi sellar - come on at each stationI am hereSettling in deviceGelato for lunchThe Fort Wall Lighthouse

    On the move

    December 26, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After the good lunch and a good time on the beach I headed back to the hotel. As I am keeping this room and going by train to Galle tomorrow I don't want to carry my full kit. I found a backpack that will do the trick. At AUD $6.80 it won't last much longer than the 2 days I need it for! I then had a bit of a nap that turned into bedtime - long catch up rest. Beautiful early morning session and then via the Wellawatte Cathedral and a 24 hour supermarket for a small marmite for breakfast. Speaking of which - was a full spread today with dhal and chicken curry as well as an egg station. They got very excited when I asked if they could do a chilli omelette! This brekkie made one little piggy very happy! Packed up and went down stairs to see if the same tuk tuk driver was outside. He was so he took me tot Lavinia Station. Of course I was very early and then train ended up being 20 minutes late. All part of the experience. Beautiful day for travel. Boarded and of course standing room only - no visitor stands a chance against a local - seat ticket or not! Standing in the door gets a great breeze and lovely beach views. A lot more swish resorts than I remember from before. Finally got off after 2 1/2 hours and quickly into a tuk tuk. He was a pleasant chap who tried hard so he earned the rip off. He was prepared to barter but I wasn't - I was hot and thirsty, he got me to my digs quickly and I am happy to pay 500 rupees to anywhere! Some are luckier than others. The little cafe/ hotel is bang in the middle of Old Town and is character plus - natural not cliche. Upstairs 2 flights on old narrow stairs (prepare the medivac) to an old room with a fan and is self contained - I will leave the description at that - in fact it is more than I should expect for $40 AUD a night. Downstairs for a beer (inside because it is still a religious holiday). The menu looks good both brekkie and dinner - Sri Lankan sections for both. I am too late to think about lunch (over it) and I will leave exploring the Old Town, dutch fort and iconic cricket ground for tomorrow. It reminds me immediately of Hoi An and Malacca. Just spied a meal next to me - curry and rice and it looks and smells amazing! I did go out for a quick circuit - the wasn't too busy but the Fort walls were chockers with holiday families. I had a gelato and seem to remember the one of the few I have had were from here. Not bad but not quite at level of the one near the Parthenon in Rome!Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    1Soldier raising the flag on the rampartsView from my room

    Galle awakes

    December 26, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    This morning I hit the ramparts of the Galle Fort at sunrise - the golden hour and I was rewarded. A beautiful time of day and the colours on the old Fort beautiful. It is possible to go nearly all the way around the Fort on top of the wall - just a few renos here and there. Galle is on the southern tip so both sunrise and sunset are a feature. I managed to catch the soldier in full dress kit raising the flag. I have included some pics of last nights dinner. I was going to have it at the cafe in my guest house but the guests had drunk the place dry - because of the holiday 'issues'. I found another place - Mango Tree that looked nice with lots of palms and outside on a patio. More importantly it had a local food section on the menu and critically it was fully stocked with Lion! I had Octopus Black Curry with coconut sambal and chapati - delicious. A real black pepper overtone and the octopus was tender. A bit of walking planned today - including going to the town proper. The old town is VERY tourist oriented so need to see the two sides.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    1A
    Hoppers with Dahl and coconut sambalSri Lankan drums - iconic but not for breakfast!1The next genGalle Cricket GroundRolling the netsGreen Market entranceFirework Sellars everywhereStreet greenery - mature chilli plants all along the streets - I could live hereHalf mastTeam launchHuge tuna on display

    Galle Day

    December 27, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I had the breakfast area to myself - Galle doesn't stir too early (I think I woke the chef up!!). Had the table on the street porch. 1A I think it's called! Went the Sri Lankan breakfast - good stuff plus great tasting fruit. Just as I was leaving some Sri Lankan drummers and piper turned up to prepare for a wedding across the road. MAN they give those drums a whack! Not unpleasant but LOUD! Wandered out through the main gate and onto town past the iconic Galle Cricket Ground - a lot of cricketing history here! The town was hectic and hot but a buzz - I love this stuff. It was certainly a real town. I saw green markets, firework sellars, an amazing spice shop (K - you would go mad) and chaotic traffic - trying to be Hanoi! I walked back by the bay and saw the tsunami memorial out in the bay with the flag at half mast - yesterday was the anniversary I believe. I entered the fort a way I hadn't been and past a super fresh fish market - just off the boats nearby.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler

    More Fort pics

    December 27, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    I have capitulated and booked a car to go back to Colombo tomorrow. While I could use the excuse I haven’t been on the brand new Colombo/ Galle Highway the truth is I have had enough backpacker experiences! It is the same price as a Colombo airport transfer so pretty reasonable! I will get back in plenty of time for some beach time.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Perfect location
    Rice and Curry to die forCurd and honeyYes - I may have had Marmite on the toast.Leaving Galle FortInsane!

    Road tripping

    December 28, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Heading back to Colombo this morning. Two days has been good for this visit - excellent to see the 2 Galles, Old Town and proper. My guest house was in the perfect location, the food was outstanding and the accommodation - well, you get what you pay for! The Rice and Curry was absolutely outstanding with the most aromatic gravy. It came with a fiery chilli sambal, chutney and dahl. Simply sensational! It was a late lunch/early dinner so a walk around and then back. Breakfast was curd and honey - a staple here that could easily find a home on the Greek islands. Then a Sri Lankan omelette - I was asked what I wanted in it and he was happy with chilli. All those chilli bushes around are the Cairns type fire bombs but in early flower so longer green chillies abound (hence the additions) Added butter softened shallots are the only thing I can think makes it Sri Lankan. Nice coffee here in SL. Percolator style. My driver is here...Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Dehiwala Beach - looking towards Mt Lavinia
    Too easyAaah - Kottu

    Back - to the beach

    December 28, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Survived the road trip - the new highway is as good as you would hope for anywhere. The town driving - I didn't take any more pics as the weaving around by everyone didn't take into account any particular side of the road - not something to overly share!! Back to the hotel and the fare came under what I expected. Went up to the room - and it was great to be home. Stupid but it was lovely! Unpacked - charged some devices, went to the supermarket to buy some beer (because I could!) And researched a different beach experience. Came up with Soul Beach which is about half way to Mt Lavinia - Deliwha Beach. Pleasantly surprised by the quality of the beach (as it is a little closer to town) and the place is part of a resort. Settled in on a beach lounge and this was me. Great service and a treat in store food wise - kottu! This is iconic Sri Lankan street food and has the nickname Sri Lankan drums as this describes the sound of the flat bread being enthusiastically chopped on a metal surface. The bread becomes like a ribbon pasta and in this case had spicy chicken and even more fiery coconut milk sauce. Ticked this off my list and better as it can be very fatty on the street - this was elegant. Too much though but happy as! Driven into the resort (it's hard) by an afternoon shower. The house bubbly is u/a so a glass of white to wait out the inconvenience. The wine list has Champagne Jacquart Mosaique for 19000 lkr and Moet at 49000 lkr - unbelievable!! The Jacquart is at Oz bottle shop price! I LOVE Jacquart and if they have it in stock I cannot think of a better way to spend my last afternoon - champagne and beach! My plan is to go to Colombo Fort tomorrow morning to check out the town and the market then back ...to the beach!Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Fort Station
    Lotus Tower1Floating MarketYum1Brinjal13Yellow avocado!! (Vale Bill Granger)Okra - & did I not see those chillies?🤔My haul1Red MosqueMain StBack to the beach4

    The city

    December 29, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Started at Fort Station and was immediately reminded how pleased I was I caught the train from Mt Lavinia. This station is a heaving mass of (seemingly) confusion. I hunted out the Pettah Floating Market having read about it. If it ever was a goer - it isn't now. I then ventured into the Pettah Market proper and, my word - absolute chaos - but it worked. Hard work to navigate but a clear insight into this place. I bought some chillies to try but they won't be boarding the plane! Some smaller green and some that I would not normally expect to see in Asia - more your grim reaper type. A number of stalls had them so I should try. I nibbled on a green and while it started like a capsicum it just kept coming.... The green market was wonderful. I then fought the masses to hunt out the red mosque. It is magnificent. This and the Lotus Tower are wonderful features. I then had to beat off a self appointed guide and then a tuk tuk driver who was determined to fleece me. What he was asking was 10 times the amount I paid to get to town. My fault for not checking he had a meter. After a shouting match on the street corner I managed to get away with double the trip. Very disappointing given the terrific other drivers I have had but - again, I need to take a fair bit of the blame. Anyway - a quick coffee and change in the room and then I found my regular driver outside and back to yesterday's beach place. I won't have to be tempted by the Jacquart as it isn't in stock. What a surprise after they clearly recognized the typo! However, I have several international lounges to enjoy champagne when I leave tomorrow. Hopefully the flights allow me the indulgence.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Tropics
    1THIS is what it is all about. Right hand is all the cutlery needed!Wet returns - and busy

    Last night

    December 29, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Lovely afternoon on the beach and there was some good sun to be had. As the afternoon developed so did the thunder clouds. Just made it into the resort undercover lounge before the heavens opened. A classic tropical downpour - 30 mins and it was done! Love it! Tuk tuk home (nice guy) and as I had deliberately missed lunch I set out for a Jaffna Restaurant I had been looking forward to. Went for a long walk prior (in the lovely post rain air) and then turned up at the door. Of course it was closed tonight!!. What to do? There is a quite reasonable looking Indian restaurant in my hotel but I saw that as a last resort. A couple of doors away I saw a rice and curry hotel. They call cafe/diners hotels here! Tiny little place with a few tables - it looked clean and the food having a good variety and looking fresh - so I darted in. Well - did I get a treat! I think for all sorts of reasons, this was the meal of the trip and summed up Sri Lanka in a moment. Helpful and interested staff and wonderful wonderful food - $6.50 doesn't even cover what will be a true memory of Colombo.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    I am here for a whileLounge tucker1

    Homeward bound (sort of....)

    December 30, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I choose to start this with a calming glass of Champagne Joseph Perrier. Fun fact - I was there at the launch in Australia of this house at Dan Murphy's Fine Wine Cellars in Prahran. Dirty Dan was the first importer and was a firm fave back in the day (until I discovered Pol Roger). I left the hotel knowing there was a 1 hour delay out of Colombo. By the time I reached check in it had blown out to nearly 4 hours. Means my Qantas Business Class connection from Singapore is ripped up - in fact instead of an 8pm flight ex SIN it is 8.30am tomorrow morning - on a Singapore Airlines flight!!!! Not even One World. I cannot comprehend this as being even possible. I am told I will know my accomodation when I arrive in Singapore. I will head straight to the Qantas desk when I arrive and say (thanks Kerry) if I had wanted to fly Singapore I would have made those arrangements. The options don't suit at all and the hassles of getting my points back, points owed, status credits owed blah blah don't bear thinking about. Anyway - I am here in the Sri Lankan international lounge with champagne and brilliant Sri Lankan food. By the time I went for food the selections pictured had been changed - so, I had dahl with mutton and potato curry plus a couple of sambals and pappadum. Excellent food! Nothing will change until I board - hopefully not delayed again so I will post this.Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    YesPapaya saladChangi bedroom

    The journey begins

    December 30, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    After a very longish but comfortable stint in the excellent lounge I headed towards the gate with no real clue as to current status. People were moving through the gate so all hopeful. The gate person changed my seat from 23c to 7d - YAY an upgrade to BC! Making a potentially ordinary day memorable. Joseph Perrier again but will throttle back as I have work to do in Changi to see how this rolls! Excellent experience boarding and flying at this class - as good as I have had - seriously! Great service, the green mango salad sublimely spicy, the wine excellent (Brokenwood Cricket pitch) - living the dream (so far) having reached Singapore this is no longer living the dream - given a pass to a sit up lounge for the night. Went to T1 to hunt up some Qantas help but all shut. Back to T3 to sleep in a chair for a 7.30 start. Without knowing it looks like a direct flight to Cairns??? Again - good luck with all my status etc!!! Good night (I hope!!)Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Could be worse - Graves!
    My bedroomChangi flowersMy gym2Mr Merlion ala LegoHappy as!

    Well - this is different

    December 31, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Well - arrived and my next step was an entry card for an all night lounge - not a hotel. Well I marched off to T1 to see Qantas but both lounges were closed. So back to this lounge - in any other circumstances it would be excellent - the food is great, french wine (Bordeaux white & red) but it is hardly an overnighter.. well yes it is!! I did get some sleep then a brisk 5km walk along these amazing terminals. I then spotted a duty free outlet that I saw on my way before and - yes they had what I wanted. A bottle of Chateau Suiduirat 1er Cru 2008 for $89 SGD is now mine- an absolute bargain for top level sauternes. My flight is in another terminal (of course) but is direct to Cairns. I am 23 credits away from lifetime Gold but I think it will be a while before it clicks in.....I will have a bit of negotiation ahead to get the 100 credits I should have got this trip - don't worry, I will get them! Some Singapore musts ticked without even leaving Changi - Mr Merlion and Kaya Toast! I am going to be tired when I get home - travel has never been like this before!Read more

  • David ColesColombo ho hoTraveler
    Seat 64k must be outside pushing!
    Who hooo!Wet trackTimor1AustraliaCairns InternationalDuty Free haul!

    Last leg (I hope)

    December 31, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Finally boarded and on my way. This is a (relatively) tiny 737 MAX so my seat number 64K looked odd. I asked at the desk if it was right. He asked if I liked to be more forward. Of course I said yes so he gave me 47A??? On board this turned out to be 7A in a normal plane! Even more of a bonus I am seated on my own!! There is inflight WiFi as well!! As I am not a member of the family it came at a cost $USD15.99!! Worth it to try it on an international flight. Qantas say they hope to get some international flights connected in 2024. Interweb and power - almost civilised! I haven't flown in a MAX before and it is certainly a step up from the old 737 - quieter and a bit more roomier. Uneventful flight with a blast from the past - water in a cup with a tear off lid - so last century! Back into Cairns International - it is very close to Domestic but this is a first time for me. Home now - showered then unpacked. It has been steamy up here - mould threatening! So tropical FNQ! Thanks for the follow and I am pleased to be able to share what in the end, was an eventful trip away. I hope everyone has a great 2024!Read more

    Trip end
    December 31, 2023
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