A Pacific island sojourn Read more
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  • Day 1

    I choose to start … at home!

    December 23, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I am starting this blog from the start of Christmas break - getting home at 2.30pm on Friday gives me the chance for a beer with lunch, a walk to the beach, wash the bike (the wet season is now truly here) and pack - all in a leisurely and civilised fashion. So - some Coral Sea beach pics to lead into some Pacific action shortly. A quick Chrissy dinner tonight at a very good place right across the road from me here - I even let Kerry go there sometimes! Early dinner as my flight to Brisbane leaves at stupid o’clock Saturday morning. Wandered over to Code after a lazy hour or so (the sun came out!!) at the pool. Beautiful meal with (virtual) company. Had a good conversation with Kerry by the instagram! This is a place doing some very good things but the plates here are for sharing so not so good for one #wherethebloodyhellareyou. Home at a reasonable time so, while the early start is no issue, Uber/cabs availability and airport busyness will be of interest!Read more

  • Day 2

    Christmas eve travel

    December 24, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Up and ready in plenty of time but Uber didn’t want to play. Finally got a Cairns taxi. Their app is now like Uber but, while no surge action with cabs, they are still more expensive - however, at least they were on the road! Big line at CNS security but it moved quickly. Quick coffee in the lounge and then a dash to the gate - QF 707 was boarding 10 minutes EARLY!! That cab/Uber thing might have been a bit touch and go!! A quick flight and even quicker transit through Brisbane domestic and into international. No human interaction at all with check in and customs (I like it) and big crowds at security but Brisbane International NAILED it - everyone moved quickly through. Hats off to them! Last time in Adelaide was quite different. Practically every bag was opened - eye wateringly slow - they must have had a recent incident. The international lounge in Brisbane is ok with good views over the track and into the terminal. Food and drink is equally ok. Of course it crossed my mind to change my departure to Sydney so I could 1st lounge it but with the massive price hikes since I booked that little extravaganza would have added a cool $1k to the experience. Brisbane step off it is!! Good bye from Oz and next it will be bonjour!Read more

  • Day 2

    Je suis arrive

    December 24, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I have arrived in Noumea to a beautiful sunny warm day with no wind. I am in the same hotel in virtually the same room. It will do just fine but I could do a lot better - just saying. The free wifi ran out almost immediately and my wonderful overseas Telstra phone service hasn’t reached the pacific islands yet - so I may have to buy a sim or something next week. Found the shops were still open so I went to a little one nearby I know well and bought some great stuff. I tried to buy a baguette but the shop keeper refused to sell it to me. When I asked why he knocked it on the counter and said ‘merde’ - is that the word for stale? Hehe!! Quite right too -no civilised French person would buy a baguette at 5pm in the evening…. Unpacked then took in the sunset with a beer on the Promenade. They are doing up the waterfront ala Kirra (in prime time) and it will be nice but - the palms and narrow beach have gone in favour of a Surfers P style boulevard and more sand - hey it’s back to Holloways soon!! Still - looks good for a dip (bob) tomorrow. I hope Santa is on song for you all!Read more

  • Day 3

    Joyeux Noel

    December 25, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Joyeux Noel to you all. I wish for a great day for all. Joyeux has long been my most favourite French word - mostly for the beautiful pronunciation (jwa - oo- aah) but also it’s forever association with Perrier Jouet Champagne (in particular Belle Époque). I do like champagne and indeed I am having some now as one does with Christmas brekkie. My little local duka (Swahili for corner store) had a half of Nicholas Feuillatte and a yummy jambon baguette. A great start. The weather has continued beautiful from yesterday. Normal day for the shop folks so I stocked up on beer, wine, water and lunch goodies. A beautiful fresh baguette, some washed rind (St Nectaire) some mortadella and a pandan leaf rolled up Vietnamese pate. Lunch sorted! To the beach for an hour or so - crystal clear water, beautiful temperature and lots of Noumea folk picnicking ‘en plage’. Lunched then a good walk to the next bay - Baie des Citrons. Lots of happy folk enjoying their day - a cold beer then a dip before walking back. A nice sundowner at a nearby cafe with a table on the footpath overlooking the bay (and the foreshore restoration). Had a burger that, in the setting, was good! A very relaxing day in perfect weather and left in no doubt I am France- pretty much everybody is speaking French.Read more

  • Day 4

    A plan

    December 26, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    The weather was holding up this morning (rain overnight and a touch windier) so an early water taxi across to Ile Aux Canards was the plan. A tiny island less than 10 minutes boat ride away. I remember being horrified at the ‘got ya’ experience last time but a lot more relaxed this time. The taxi book in was a leisurely footpath affair (what could go wrong) with a beach pick up. It was actually a much more pleasant affair than the other official ferry office. Very friendly and quick! I remember the eye watering costs last time and the crowds. Going early I had the pick of the chairs and the package bought with the trip included a beach lounge and was very reasonable. Lovely morning, crystal clear water, a couple early beers and no sore feet due to reef shoes (total difference K - thanks). Really enjoyed the sojourn and will repeat this visit. Back to shore and a read at the pool. Got sent home after an hour as the rain set in. I write this 3 hours later and it is still steady. Had a wonderful filled baguette for lunch with some added wash rind for flavour. I have another mini baguette for brekkie tomorrow(the pain sac is amazing -keeps really fresh) and then it will be Le Marche brekkies onwards as they reopen from tomorrow . Big shout to Kerry again for the reef shoe discovery - it was at least 50% of making Ille deCanard a much better experience! Not sure much else will happen today as the rain is set - a few more restaurants are open today nearby so who knows…Read more

  • Day 5

    Action required - then settle back!

    December 27, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    The drizzle yesterday arvo turned into rain in the evening then a full blown storm for most of the night. No light show but plenty of rain and wind. The morning was more set with the lightest drizzle and lighter wind. A nice baguette brekkie and quick provision shop then I had some work to do. I needed cash, a phone that works and pick up the car. Auto tellers and obtaining sim were major frustrations on my last trip so I headed out with an open mind….the nearby auto teller (that has never been forthcoming in the past) gushed money! The Post Office a couple of kilometres walk up the road was the first attempt of 3 last time to set up my phone. 10 mins and done this time! The car hire was across the road and last time I gave up applying for a car on the island as the additional deposit was 3x the fee. Booking on the Qantas site there was none of that ! A very reasonable cost compared to now prices in Oz. This morning has me with a surprised face!! I have been steeling myself for some time about driving a LH drive car on foreign roads. K has just reminded me it is not my first time - we had a go in La Grona in Northern Spain. I have no recollection and even photos she has dug up don’t help - it must have been awful! Anyway off I go in the drizzle in a manual on a tiny road. Went for a 20 km training circuit and sorted - everything on the wrong side and upside down!! Will drive to town tomorrow for a market breakfast and then more of a tour (note to self - turning left it is the far lane to aim for!!) Back to the hotel for a rewarding beer at the hotel pool - still a bit drizzley. A walk to a beach to the south buying an umbrella on the way. A nice dip then back to the pool as it had big umbrellas- still only a drizzle but enough to wet stuff. A quiet time and then see how far the weather lets me explore this evening.Read more

  • Day 6

    Noumea Ville

    December 28, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Drove to the city for brekkie at the market - Le Marche de Noumea. Small but always interesting. Great croque madame with cafe au lait (not a Theo coffee!!) has set me up nicely. Enjoyed the market - bought some chillies, a t shirt and a stubbie cooler (predictable 🙄) then walked around the (small) city centre. Quite tacky but with some character thrown in. Changed some currency then jumped back in the car and just followed the one way streets. I knew I wanted to end up at a super Super Marche (Auchon) that I had been to before. Parking was like Bunnings - where I struggle in ‘normal’ cars. However - in and bought a hot fresh baked baguette, some nice cheese and some oysters. I was tempted by the bottle shop (AMAZING selection of French wine inc Gigondas etc etc) - however I was saved by having left my passport in the boot! Home to a relaxing hour by the pool - baking in a returning sun. Lunch was oysters, all of the above and White Bordeaux. Streaky Bay oysters have nothing to worry about (just saying) but it was a treat just the same. Noumea chillies now! (good too). Long walk along the Promenade and a quick dip - rolling thunder sent me home quick smart. Back to the pool with the big umbrellas for a good read. Just a few drops so far but it does look ominous. Won’t venture far tonight - probably to my (very close) footpath cafe again. They will know my name soon!
    PS - the interweb doesn’t want upload this again tonight so…..tomorrow
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  • Day 7

    Out and about

    December 29, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    The plan is go touring - follow the more scenic looking coastline for a while and see what it brings. Croissant for brekkie from a local small baker. The croissant was superb and I wish the same could be said about the ‘cafe au lait’…….it was as ordinary as it looked. Jumped in the car and followed my route as best as. I planned to go the longer of the two loops and it was good until I reached the second loop. The first bit took an hour and while I was keen on doing La Grande Boucle the second section narrowed to a single lane, gung ho local cowboys in big utes (hello FNQ) and desolate scenery. As soon as the ‘penal’ signs appeared I turned around! A lovely drive however and missing a turn outside the city meant I saw a lot of the northern suburbs that I could have done without. Back to the pool for another sun drenched hour then a baguette and cheese lunch. A long walk looking for a new southern beach (fail) saw me back at south Anse Vata beach for a final pacific swim - gorgeous but I wasn’t alone! Back to the pool and then prepare for dinner. Tonight I think maybe…….Read more

  • Day 8

    Setting off

    December 30, 2022 in New Caledonia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Today was always going to be up in the air (pun!) After a good run I was going to go to the Marche des Noumea for brekkie but I had too much XPF cash in my wallet! The hotel buffet had always looked ok so I thought I would have a crack. It was as good as it looked - fresh fruit, runny scrambles and pain et confitures (nod to K). Packed up and a bit of a tour killing time before the museum of local culture opened. Coffee in Baie de Citrons was in a lovely spot but same old frothy milk. Time was going slowly so I bought a small baguette and some jambon and finally found a park near the city square. Had lunch but failed to find a street direction that coincided with the museum - I was not feeling the island vibe so I headed to the airport. It is a long drive and on an expressway so imagine those European autobahns - me sitting on 100kms p/h and everyone else 140 ++. Anyway I got there and dropped the car off (with no clear directions and entering through the out lane) then to checkin. Well - I find checkin opens in an hours time. Oh well - no shops, no bars until 30 mins to checkin. Had a beer then checked in. All good - but security didn’t open for another 45 mins 🤷 (Noumea time I need to understand). I finally get to the Hibiscus lounge and all is good with the world - even the delayed flight (1hr 35) is beyond an issue- hey, I am on holiday!! Wandered out to Duty Free and bought my allowance in Pastis - plenty here but absolutely none to be found in Australia. Later into Brisbane than expected but my hotel is at the airport so all good.Read more