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El Camino Portugues

januar - februar 2024
You can't get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.
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  • 33dage
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  • 6videoer
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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 11

    After the Floods

    14. januar, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    This morning I had a late start and left the Alburgue around 10:30 mostly due to thunder, lighting, and heavy rain.

    Walking during the first part of the day, it seemed like there really had been a ton of rain and that the area was maybe not used to this much rain as I passed quite a few olive tree groves that were now completely in a river, or where a lot of the gravel road I was walking on was slowly being washed away.

    Eventually I caught up with Margarida who had left about an hour before me. At one point, we went maybe 800m off the trail to find this waterfall that was absolutely FLOWING because of all of the rain. It rained on and off for entire day. My rain gear and boots are mostly holding up okay though it’s fairly warm outside which is so much preferable for rainy hiking!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 12

    Etapa 9: Coimbra

    15. januar, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Update: Whoops, did not realize this post and the last one did not update!

    I arrived to Coimbra with Margarida on a very rainy evening. We said our goodbyes after having spent a couple of days in Alburgues together as she was heading back to Lisbon by bus to complete the rest of the route at a later date. I stayed in the back room of an old church convent. It was a real maze to get to. Like through 3 different courtyards. The next morning, it was still quite rainy and I did some laundry in the morning and had lunch under a covered bench in a park. Realizing that I was really losing daylight and would probably have to walk in the dark and rain again, I decided to stay in Coimbra one more night haha

    The second night, I stayed in a hostel in the city center which had MUCH better showers. I explored the city a bit during the day (it was built around an old and very important university) and in the evening, I got Korean fried chicken with some people I met at my hostel. Fran and I were also trying to see some Fado music, but the location was unfortunately closed. So instead, we tried to find a bar with people (hard on a rainy Monday night) and get some drinks!    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 12

    Etapa 10: Sernadelo

    15. januar, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    I stopped in Hilario for the evening and the person running said that there were only two beds left despite the website saying that there was 18 beds in the dormitory which was quite surprising because everywhere else has been pretty sparsely populated.

    Sure enough, pretty much all of the beds had things on them, but there was no one else there.

    A little while after I arrived, a man from Poland who was traveling to Fatima but had just finished the French Camino arrived. We talked for quite a while about how people can often work too much and he was giving me some good travel meal tips because I’d mentioned how hard it is to just keep eating all of the time to replace all the calories from walking. Though, most of his tips seemed to all involve adding different kinds of yogurts to meals haha

    Turns out, that 16 of the beds were taken up by Nepalese workers who all arrived around 4 AM playing what I’m guessing was Nepalese music because of all the flutes that was in it. They all went to bed pretty quickly though, which was helpful in getting back to sleep to be up early(ish) the next day.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    1
    Dag 14

    Stop and Go

    17. januar, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today had a forecast of rain the whole day, but only about a 30% chance every hour. What that meant in practice was that about every hour it rained quite hard for about 5 minutes, and then was very sunny afterwards.

    So today, there was a lot of of my sensing that rain was about to fall and scrambling to find shelter as I really didn’t want to walk all day in my rain gear.

    It was quite a pretty walk today though that took me through several small towns and some more Eucalyptus forests which I have now learned are harvested to make paper.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 14

    Etapa 11: Águada

    17. januar, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Ami didn’t spend too much time there, but Águada is a super picturesque city! I stayed at an Alburgue that was also a hotel and it seemed like I was the only one there, so they have me a really nice private room for only 15 euros. I spent the evening relaxing and also ate a huge meal that consisted of an orange, and apple, a soup and an entire BBQ pizza from Lidl. Not sure why my aspirate was so huge today, but I for sure have had to had refueled on calories with this meal because it was at least like 2,500 calories.Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 15

    Etapa 12: Branca

    18. januar, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    This Alburgue is also attached to a hotel that apparently no one else is staying in. The dormitory is in an old mill room that been restored. It looks super cool in here! I was able to wash some clothes before bed too, so hopefully everything drys by morning!

    When I came in, I was offered a slice of cheesecake with cherries in it. I hung out in the common room/kitchen with the other person staying in the Alburgue who is not actually a Pilgrim, but who is doing a work away program and is helping out here in exchange for food and lodging. She is from Italy is just beginning a trip across Portugal for an unknown period of time while doing various work away opportunities.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 15

    Over the Highway and Through the Woods

    18. januar, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today I did a lot of roadside walking. There were also some nice sections in the woods, but it really was mostly on roads today. It’s been really sunny too which has been oh so incredible after all of the rain! However, the highway walking may have actually been a good thing because many of the paths still had a lot of water in them. I’m thinking that maybe more of the land will have drained by tomorrow!

    One thing that honestly amazed me today, was the scale of the highway bridge that I crossed. It went over a river/gorge at what seemed like the highest and longest point. I’m always astounded by how many places there are in the US where it seems like so much money has been poured into really nice roadway infrastructure and the surrounding areas really don’t seem to have much going on and at least from some sights today Portugal doesn’t seem to be immune to this either, as the villages surrounding this huge bridge seemed to be in various states of repair and many buildings had various pieces of sheet metal used as sidelong and roofing.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 16

    The only way to get there is to walk

    19. januar, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I left around 7 this morning and it was quite nice to walk in the early morning as I’d generally been starting out later to avoid the typical morning rain shower.

    Today’s walk was pretty much completely through urban areas. Either through a town or next to the road. It really was a good way to get a sense of how people live. I do think that I generally prefer more of the farmland and natural scenery though for a whole day of walking.

    Some things I’ve noticed:

    * There are a surprising number of animal pastures like right next to or in the middle of large town.
    *Terracotta roofs are quite heavy. I saw a number of abandoned houses, and it seems like the roof always caves in first.
    *Almost no one uses a leash when walking a dog.
    *Very few bill boards
    *At least to my untrained eye, it’s pretty rare to see houses that are tiled, have similar tiles to other houses. There are so many unique patterns!
    *All large name brand grocery stores have tent like awnings for people to park their car beneath.

    Tomorrow I should arrive in Porto! I’m planning on spending a few days there, maybe 3.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 17

    Etapa 13: Grijó

    20. januar, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I have been calling Alburgues ahead of time so that I can make sure they are open. The person answering the phone for the Grijo Alburgue really didn’t seem to speak English but did mention something about a form and that they would send me a WhatsApp message about it.

    I never did get the form, but when I arrived I completely walked into the wrong building that turned out to be a bar and asked for the Alburgue. They pointed me to the back of a house where the check-in would be. When I knocked, a 7 year old girl answered the door and called for her mom that there was someone here for the Alburgue. I provided my credential and information while in their living room. I think I’d pretty clearly interpreted some kind of gather because there were 4 young kids running around and a group of older men all talking together.

    I did get into the Alburgue though! And saw Lee. The two of us went to dinner together and a dish that in the English menu was called ‘cod with cornbread’. I’m not sure exactly where the cornbread was, but it was super tasty!

    After dinner, Lee offered me some different kinds of South Korean candy that were all ginseng flavor. It was a very unique taste, but probably not going to be a new Halloween favorite for me.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeEl Camino Portugues
    Dag 21

    Etapa 15: Arvore

    24. januar, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The three Alburgues after Porto were all closed so we were advised to stay at a campground. They had these small Bungalows and I shared one with Fran and his brother Alfonso.

    Alfonso and I arrived first and so went to have dinner together in the town. The restraints that we saw all seemed quite expensive so we attempted to say that we were looking for something cheaper. A host of a fancy restaurant told us to follow him and he took us down the block to an ally behind a building where there was a very small hole in the wall place that was selling drinks and small sandwhiches to what seemed like a very local crowd and the price was excellent.

    I was trying to order a beer but I think I wanted was lost in translation so I only ended up with a sandwiches. While we were eating, an older German man came over with an open beer and gave it to me. He had recently moved to Portugal to start a company and had really excellent English. He and I talked for a bit and he was telling me about how he’d recently moved back to Europe from living in China for 9 years. Super nice guy and he would not let me pay him back for the beer!

    We also ended up going to a different dive bar for ANOTHER sandwich (needed lots of calories) and met Fran there.

    In the morning, we started the day at a bakery in town.    Læs mere

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