El Camino Portugues

January - February 2024
You can't get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.
-The Sun Also Rises
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  • 44footprints
  • 4countries
  • 33days
  • 267photos
  • 6videos
  • 14.8kkilometers
  • 7.6kkilometers
  • Day 32

    Etapa 25: Santiago de Compostela

    February 4 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Our last day of walking to Santiago was quite a short one. We walked through. Series of small ancient feeling villages. One of them had an outdoor feral cat shelter and we talked with a local woman who seemed to be the sole caretaker of the colony.

    There really weren’t many amazing lunch options, so we stopped at a bakery and had some freshly made empanadas, which honestly for me was quite a good lunch option!

    We really didn’t rush in the afternoon, but walked with pleasure and companionship through Santiago’s streets, which were filled with more local tourists, and up to the peak where the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela stands.

    The day truly was beautiful and the shadows barely touched the steeps of the cathedral as our group celebrated the accomplishment and completion of our journey. We took several photos together, but mostly just basked in the moment of arrival in the plaza.

    One funny thing was that many of the tourists kept coming up to our group specifically to take pictures of them. I’m not sure why they particularly thought we were the best photographers around, but we did try our best.

    After getting settled into the last Alburgue and showering. We met up for dinner together! We went to several different tapas restaurants for drinks and to sample Galecian delicacies and then had a real meal around 11 with ample seafood and free tortilla patata. After dinner we went to one of the few bars open on Sunday which was playing American rock n roll from around the 1950s and met a few other Pilgrims who had arrived by the French way!

    For me, this trip was one of exploration, reflection, and enjoyment. Many people walk the way of St. James searching for something and for me that was connection.

    I met people from all over the world of various ages and backgrounds. I heard there stories, got to share my culture, shared music, and sometimes just walked in silence with them. I traveled across half a country in a mostly rural area where I didn’t speak the language at all, yet still was able to get what I needed and share in the small moments of day to day life. I accepted the kindness of strangers and tried where I could to return the favor to others.

    I don’t think that this journey completely altered who I am. That would be asking quite a lot. But it did set before me a path to walk down and the time to think about how I want to walk down it: with pleasure and the company of others, or forging ahead on my own, to find things that I may not have otherwise. I think for me there is some form of equilibrium to be had between those two ways of walking. But I did find the days of going a little more slowly and in the company of people who eventually became friends to often be more rewarding and more pleasurable.

    It was usually the small things too that made the walk more enjoyable. A long lunch, a spot to stop, a good joke to be shared, a stranger to meet, a piece of landscape to be noticed and shared with others. For me these things were a little bit harder as well because they usually involved using basic Spanish (which I have but I’m not amazing at) or really simple English.

    Those moments along the way require a bit more planning or sometimes stepping into the unknown. The me after Camino is someone who I think will take more time for the smaller moments and who will venture beyond where I’m normally comfortable to find them.

    One other thing about walking 633 km over 32 days, is that I was constantly outside. I REALLY appreciated the amount of nice weather and tried my best to appreciate the times of rain or cold. Moving from one place to the other so slowly really led me to appreciate the slowly changing biomes. The world created by God is worthy of appreciating in its more wild areas and areas that humanity has put to our own uses in varying levels of harmony with natural. We’ve altered so much through roads, hydraulics, and agriculture.

    Time spent outside is almost always well spent. While, I’m not sure when I’ll ever have the chance to spend so many continuous days walking outside again, I can still take make time and headspace to reverse the world wherever I am; to walk with pleasure along the way; and to do what I can to look for opportunities to build friendly connections with new people even if only to enjoy a small moment.
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  • Day 31

    Etapa 24: Padrón

    February 3 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The 6 of us walked through several small towns and agricultural areas that to me (aside from the architecture) really reminded me a lot the foothills of NC. Small mountains in the distance, green and lush trees everywhere, and we stopped at what can best described as a BBQ restaurant for lunch!

    The way they do BBQ in Galicia is with sauce and the side and it’s kind of a chili Garrick sauce that is only served on the side. I split BBQ beef ribs and quail with fran and had a Tiramisu for dessert.

    In the evening about an hour before we arrived at the hostel, we stopped at this ‘Pilgrims stop’ that had vending machines a shelter, and music playing. We were the only ones there, but I’m sure it’s quite busier in the summer. It was a really nice spot to take a rest.

    Tomorrow we will reach Santiago! It’s been such a great journey so far and I’ve really enjoyed getting to meet people from all over the world and particularly the group that I’ve been walking with for the last week. and on days when I’ve been walking partially or completely by myself it’s also been a good opportunity for introspection and to connect with God/Nature.

    Some things that I’ve been doing ever single day:
    1. Picking up trash along the way
    2. Stretching
    3. Praying
    4. Talking/communicating with people who don’t speak the same language as me
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  • Day 31

    Etapa 23: A Portela

    February 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We set out for the day going mostly through fields and farmlands. We saw some goats and had a nice moment with them and fed them some nearby grasses. They were super appreciative of that despite being in a field full of grass.

    We then traveled along a small river for a while which led into a larger town where we had lunch. I had pork ribs which were super tasty, but the sauce was served separately so they were quite messy to eat. After dinner we walked out of the city, but along the way stopped by a political tent ( I’m not sure why we did this) and some members of the group had a conversation about one of the local candidates. We were also all handed political flyers. I read through mine and had to ask Juan Pablo for some translations. The party was supposedly the the center-right party but there proposed policy seemed to be left of the democrats. It was quite interesting to hear about how the Spanish election system works.

    We arrived to the Alburgue a little after sundown. They had a big soup, hard-boiled eggs and bread waiting for us that was available to eat for a donation. Quite a simple meal, but filling.

    After dinner, the Alburgue caretaker, Paco, and I talked a bit about American music. He was super in to American rock from the 70s and ended up showing me different YouTube videos for like an hour of the Beastie Boys, Prodigy, and Simpsons clips. I also tried to show him some newer artists I thought he might like and he subscribed to all of the YouTube channels of everyone I recommended.
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  • Day 29

    Etapa 22: Arcade

    February 1 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We started the the day by going to two different places for breakfast. I got empanadas at one and a Nepolitana (tastes as good as it looks) at the other.

    The name of the bakery where I bought the Nepolitana was called La Panacea (most bakeries are called pananderia) and they also sold some basic household goods.

    The first part of today’s walk was on a greenway going through a neighborhood in Vigo and then along the highway. Eventually that came to an end and we walked beside an old railroad track until that came to an end, at which point we made the steepest climb I’ve done in the entire Camino. Like just straight up. I would have been very nervous to drive on the hills we were climbing that’s how steep they were.

    We stopped at and had lunch at a restaurant some locals recommended. The Spanish guys I’m traveling with like to ask 3-4 people for recommendations on local food and then hash out which one to go to. One of the best things about traveling with them haha

    After a huge lunch, I think we all fell asleep for at least like 5 minutes in the nearby park (una siestita) and then finished the afternoon by walking to Arcade.

    It was Fran’s birthday and in evening José made a traditional dish that was rice, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, and pork ribs all cooked together in the oven. Super tasty and for dessert one of Fran’s brothers had bought a Tarta de Santiago and candles for him to blow out!
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  • Day 28

    Etapa 21: Vigo

    January 31 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we traveled along the coast for almost the entire day. We passed people who were crabbing in an area that looked quite dangerous with rocks and large waves. Eventually, we made our way to the much calmer calmer waters of the bay of Vigo.

    Vigo is the most important city in the region and there is quite a lot of industry based there. In the middle of the bay, are lots of platforms that apparently have ropes going into the water to grow mussels. Also, at the very top of the city, is an old stone Castillo used throughout history including as a defensive structure during the Spanish civil war.

    We went to the top of the Castillo to watch the sunset set over the Atlantic. Truly stunning.

    Most everyone left for dinner at 9:30, however after having joined the Spanish for several late and long dinners already, I decided to eat the rest of the food I had in my backpack and turn in early to be rested for the rest of the way to Santiago!
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  • Day 27

    Etapa 20: Nigrán

    January 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today I walked with the group of Spaniards I am traveling and also by myself for a bit. It was a mix between walking beside the ocean and also above the ocean beside some towns. A really beautiful walk and I’m super grateful that every day has had such incredible weather! We all had lunch together at a local restaurant that is supposedly very typical for the area. The wine and coffee were both served in bowls.

    I had oreja de Ceredo (pig ears) and and also a pork elbow joint with fries. I was not a huge fan of the Orejas by themselves. Think crunchy and fatty. But, with some crusty bread they were actually really really tasty. It’s apparently a very popular dish in Galicia (the region that we are in).

    In the evening we stayed at a hotel because the nearest Alburgue was closed. It was still an okay price. I think this area is much more popular in the summer than the winter because it seemed no one else besides us was staying at the hotel.
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  • Day 26

    Etapa 19: Caminha

    January 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The convent Alburgue required that everyone leave by 8:30, which was a bit earlier than usual for the Spanish brothers. But, we did get out in time and went to a nearby bakery for a breakfast and stamp.

    Fran’s brother wanted to walk by himself today, so Fran and I spent most of the day together. The first of the day was along the the coastal boardwalk, and then we went up some truly challenging hills.

    We had plans to meet up with Fran’s brother for lunch. As we approached the town, we met an older Portuguese man who we talked for a bit. He said that he worked as a photographer for a while and offered to take our picture above the town.

    At the restaurant, we split several tapas among the 3 of us. As we were finishing up, Josè and Olraleigh met us and joined our table, and after that Frans other Brother Juan Pablo arrived as well from Madrid! So after dinner the 6 of us went to the Alburgue which had some really cool hand built bunk beds. They were also selling beers for €1 so I ended my evening on the porch with an Estrella Galicia and a sunset!
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  • Day 26

    Etapa 20: Viladesuso

    January 29 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We stayed at an Alburgue that was right by the ocean. You could buy a beer from the fridge for only €1 so I ended my day on the front porch with a typical Galician beer and una siestita!

    We all went to the only restaurant in town and had some sandwiches for dinner.Read more

  • Day 24

    Etapa 18: Viana do Castelo

    January 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today we stopped quite a few times to get stamps in our Credentials. The first was a small cafe where we had a coffee and spoke to a local man that kept wanting to shake everyone’s hand multiple times. The second was a small pizza restaurant whose stamp had their name, address, email, website, phone number, and coordinates. Every possible piece of information haha

    Along the way, we also saw a gate with lots of Camino stickers on it and so we called hit a buzzer. We were told we could come onto the property and walked down a super steep driveway towards a small cabin with a sizable vegetable garden. We were greeted by 2 chill dogs, a Brazilian student and a retired Frenchmen who had served in the military for 22 years. We got stamps and they offered us wine, but we declined and headed back to the path.

    We then walked most of the afternoon in a really beautiful forest that had a number a streams and a bridge going over a river.

    Later we also stopped for a late lunch ‘La Comida’ at a cafe and got the fourth stamp of the day there and I had a huge omelette.

    When we arrived to Viana do Castelo, we found that the Alburgue was part of an old Convent. It was a real maze to get to our rooms. It also had some very thought provoking art on the walls. When we’d settled in a bit we found that Saskia from Holland was also staying there so we all decided to go to a Portuguese Seafood restaurant together. The food was fantastic, especially the octopus! There was also a group of like 20 people that walked in to the restaurant with instruments and sang some Portuguese songs. They sounded very traditional and like I was expected to know all of the words
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  • Day 24

    More Porto

    January 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Porto is an incredibly beautiful city! It’s very important to Portuguese History and Culture.

    Supposedly the name Portugal comes from the combination of Porto and the city next to it called Gaia.

    I spent 3 days here exploring the city both by myself and with people I meet at the Alburgue.

    Some highlights:

    -A free walking tour on a beautiful and sunny day! Everyone who was on the tour was traveling by themselves also, so we all had lunch together afterwards.
    -A very length brunch at a super chill cafe on Sunday where I read the book of James.
    -Visiting the ‘most beautiful bookstore in the world’ and purchasing a pocket version of Fernando Passoa’s only novel.
    -Some inexpensive but very tasty port wine.
    -A trip to the beach where I put my feet into the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.

    At least in the old part of the city, it felt like there was always something else around the next corner, either a beautiful old church, some street art, a busker, or statue.
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