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Apr – May 2022

Iberia

A 38-day adventure by skip's retirement travel Read more
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    April 24, 2022
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    Bocairent, El Palomar, & Valencia Campo

    April 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The Campo is a rural area. I had the good fortune to stay with friends in El Palomar. The name of this small village suggests it was originally settled by Moors.
    The 1st picture is a look at the countryside of the Campo. The 2nd and 3rd pictures are in El Palomar. The leaning stature of the tree refers to the annual village festival where a tree is cut and set up, roughly the equivalent of a maypole in the UK. The silhouette cutouts reflect some of the festivities.
    The 4th picture looks up the hill to the medieval town of Bocairent. That picture was taken from the bridge in the 5th picture. The 6th picture is of the main square of Bocairent.
    The 7th picture is a long view if the hillside that is laced with caves used as dwellings by the 1st settlers and probably as places of safety during attacks. I didn't get to visit these.
    The 8th picture is another ancient bridge, but I can't remember which town it's near.
    The last 2 pictures are both ancient laundries. The 9th picture is a communal washing area where laundry is done as people gather there. In the last picture, the local irrigation channel runs past the houses. These widows are set so someone can stand comfortably to wash in the irrigation water. If you look closely, you might see the small extensions from the sides of the channel just downstream from the windows where a board could be placed to back up some of the water.    Read more

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    Valencia, Old Town

    April 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Valencia, in southeastern Spain, has the reputation of being one of the best places to live in Spain. In my time here, I found no reason to dispute that and many reasons to affirm it. The city is located on the Turia River that provides for irrigation of a naturally fertile area.
    Valencia was founded by the Romans in the 2nd century BCE. It was under Moorish (Muslim) rule for about 500 years.
    The 1st 2 pictures attest to the importance of the river and the Moors. The 1st is a statue in Virgin Square. The large guy with the cornucopia (you can make out the top) stand for the right ver and the 8 statues stand for the 8 irrigation communities along the river origanially built by the Moors over 1,000 years ago. The 8 empty chairs are for the leaders of the 8 irrigation communities' representatives who sit as a tribunal to judge conflicts in the irrigation system. Originally started by the Moors and kept by the Christians, this is the oldest jurisprudence system in Europe.
    The 3td picture is also at Virgin Square. This is the Total Basilica of our Lady of the Desemporados (homeless, hopeless) the patron saint of Valencia.
    Like must medieval cities, Valencia had walks. All the remain are 2 gates. The 4th picture is the Serrano's gate. The 5th picture is of El Rio, the nickname for the Turia Gardens. After destructive flooding, the city moved the river out of the city. The former riverbed was made into a long park, a bit if which is good n the 5th picture.
    The 6th picture is in Saint Nicolas di Bari church. It is often referred to as the Sistine Chapel for obvious reasons. The are several paintings by Goya here.
    The 7th picture is of a government building in the old town. It was built in 2 stages. The 1st was built several hundred noted years ago and the 2nd in the last century. Essentially, the building was doubled by adding a mirror image of the 1st half using the same materials and construction techniques. If you can't tell, the near portion is the addition.
    The 8th and 9th pictures are of the Central Market. This is considered an important example of Spanish modern architecture, especially with the central dome.
    The last picture is the appropriately named Round Square.    Read more

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    Silk in Valencia

    April 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A few years ago I traveled overland from Xi'an in China to Istanbul along the Silk Road (see a whole lot of previous posts). So I was fascinated to learn that Valencia was a big player in the silk trade. It seems that the Moorish traders brought mulberry trees and silkworms to Valencia and found the the local climate fit the needs of the trees and silkworms. The rest, as they say, is history.
    The castle-like building in the 1st picture is La Lonja, the silk market here. It was built to impress merchants with the wealth and power of Valencia, and I think you will see that they succeeded. In fact, Valencia dominated that trade in the western Mediterranean.
    The 2nd and 3rd pictures are 2 gardens within La Lonja. Notice the oranges on the tree. Oranges, like mulberry and rice are not native here. They were all introduced by the Moors.
    The 4th picture is the stunning trading hall with spiral columns, decorative ceiling and the rest. This is the most impressive trading hall I've seen. The 5th picture is in the upper story. This is the entry to their smaller trading area and where disputes were settled seen in the 6th picture. Note the coat of arms above the door.
    The rest of the pictures are in the silk museum. They display many artifacts from the centuries of the silk trade here plus some modern silk work. The last picture catches 2 looms, one from the 14th century and one from the 18th century. The one to the left and farther back is the old one.    Read more

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    Cathedral of Valencia

    April 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    The cathedral is located on Virgin Square next to the basilica (see another post). The importance of this church is largely due to one of the relics kept here. That relic is in the 1st picture, and the 2nd picture is a broader look at the chapel that holds it. This is the chalice or grail that the Vatican says is the real one. I'm told that there are about 25 similar relics, but archaeology and lab testing indicate that of the 25, this is the one most likely to be the correct one. The cup in the upper portion dates to the correct period. The rest of it is later additions.
    During the reconquest of Spain from the Moors, when Valencia was taken in the 13th century, all physical traces of the Moorish period were destroyed. The cathedral is built on the spot where the main mosque was located which apparently sits on top of a Roman temple. The 3rd, 4th and 5th pictures are of doors built at different times and in the different architectural styles of the time. The door in the 3rd picture is the oldest and is in the location of the main entrance to the former mosque. The other doors are Gothic and Baroque.
    The 6th picture is the nave of the cathedral looking towards the chancel. The rest of the pictures are some of the side chapels and show some of the extraordinary art here    Read more

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    More Valencia

    April 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    There is much more to Valencia than the old town. These pictures are a look at more of this city and it's character.
    The main festival here is Las Fallas that takes place in mid-March. On Saturday, some of the Fallas groups dressed in their traditional clothes and walked through the city streets with their bands playing. The 1st picture is a glance at one of those groups.
    Las Fallas isn't the only festival here. Also on Saturday was the Carnival de Ruzafa where groups centered around immigrant communities also march and dance through the streets of the Ruzafa neighborhood. A glimpse of that is in the 2nd picture.
    Among the most recognizable buildings in Valencia is the City of Arts and Sciences. The 3rd picture is the oceanographic building, and the 4th picture looks at a couple more. These are also places I walked to but didn't visit.
    The 5th picture is the music palace, a large music, arts and exhibition space. You might recognize the foreground as part of El Rio, that long park in the former riverbed (see another post).
    The 6th picture is iconic Spain. This is the Plaza del Toros, the bull ring that dates to the mid 19th century. To me it's reminiscent of the coliseum in Rome, though much smaller. Events here are seasonal, mostly during Las Fallas and in July.
    The last picture is in the plaza at the city hall. This is the largest plaza I've seen here.    Read more

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    Old Town of Barcelona

    May 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Barcelona was founded by the Romans about 2,000 years ago under the name Gerona. Not much remains from the Roman tmees, but one significant section of the Roman wall and city gate is part of the cathedral walls (see another post for the cathedral).. That is the 1st picture. 2,000 year old stone work still being used. The Roman engineers were amazing. The 2nd picture is directly across the square from the 1st. This art, that wraps around the building, is claimed by Pablo Picasso as his work. It may be the only free to view Picasso anywhere.
    The 3rd picture is the Music Palace, another Catalan Modernist building. The 4th picture is what remains of one of the oldest synagogues in Europe. The Shephardic Jews were expelled in 1492. So this predates that.
    The 5th picture used to be a large public market. However, during some construction, a lot of ancient ruins, including some dating to the Romans, were found. So the market was closed and moved. The result is a large archaeological museum.
    The next 3 pictures are in a significant church in the old town. This is Saint Mary of the Sea. The church dates to the 14th century during the height of Barcelona's maritime prosperity. The building is Catalan Gothic. The door is a rear entrance, not the main door.
    The last picture is a typical street from the time when the city was confined within the walls. Limited land for new construction caused buildings to be built above, such as over the street, like this one.    Read more

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    Sagrada Familia

    May 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família (now that's a mouthful) has become one of the most famous buildings anywhere. Designed by Antoni Gaudí and still under construction, the stunningly unique church continues to inspire awe, at least it did in me.
    Construction began in 1882 under a different architect who resigned a year later when Gaudí took over. The design concepts and models he developed still shape the design, even though he was directly involved in maybe 20% of the actual construction.
    The 1st picture is another taken from Montjuïc (see another post) to set the church in its context. The next 2 picture are of the 2 completed facades. The 2nd picture is the nativity facade that Gaudí himself built. The 3rd picture is the death facade that focuses on the passion of Christ that has been completed since by others. The 3rd and final facade, the Glory facade and main entrance is in construction now.
    All the rest of the pictures are inside that church. First a word about the stained glass that I'm told was all done by an abstract artist. The 3rd and 4th pictures were taken from the same spot, just 180° offset. It struck me that one side of the building had mostly blue and green hues in the glass while the other side has mostly red and orange.
    The rest of the pictures are different views of the sacred space. I confess that I am unable to capture to magic (yes, I know that's a theologically inappropriate term) of the space. To quote a well known and time worn phrase: ya gotta see it to believe it. My travels have taken me to scores of churches around the world. None have struck me as deeply as this.    Read more

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    Girona and the Costa Brava

    May 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Girona is a city northeast of Barcelona near the French border. If you're a Game of Thrones fan, it may look familiar. (Season 6 I'm told.). If you read Roman history or historical fiction, you may recognize it as Gerunda.
    The old city has been well preserved, making this an important tourist stop even before Game of Thrones.
    The 1st picture will look familiar to GoT fans (season 6, I'm told). This is the cathedral in Girona. The 2nd picture is the main entrance to the cathedral. There is a bit of Moorish influence here
    The 3rd picture is along the old Roman road, the Via Augustus, that ran through the town here. The 4th picture is a typical side street in the old Jewish quarter.
    If you look at the construction techniques, this bridge in the 5th picture may look a bit familiar. It was designed and built by Gustav Eiffel many years before his more famous tower. The entire bridge load is carried by the superstructure you can see. The only substructure is the abutments. The 6th picture is the main square in Girona.
    The 7th picture looks at the agricultural landscape of Catalonia between Girona and the coast. There is a hill town called Pals where that picture was taken along with the 8th picture. This church of Saint Peter is a Romanesque building dating back 1,000 years.
    The last 2 pictures are at the Costa Brava which most simply is the Mediterranean coast of Spain running south from France. Both picture give a sense of what this region looks like. And the seafood is good!    Read more

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    Montjuïc

    May 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Montjuïc is a broad, flat hill where the River Llobregat enters the Mediterranean Sea. Its strategic location became fortified, including by the Romans, and the the city of Barcelona began here. The current castle/fortress atop the mountain dates to the 17th century. The 1st 3 pictures are of the fortress: the wall, main gate and moat; the parade square inside the main structure; and a bit of the outer battlements that are now being gardened.
    The 4th picture looks out over the commercial port from the castle battlements.
    Much of the top of Montjuïc today is a park. The last 2 pictures show a couple examples of what is in the park: one of the walking paths and a fountain. There are extensive gardens here, too, but they were all being heavily worked on--probably spring cleanup and planting.    Read more

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    Cathedral of Barcelona

    May 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, as it is formally known, was begun in the 13th century with construction continuing for several hundred years as additions were made. It reached its current form in the late 19th century when the neo-gothic facade was added (the 1st picture). The 2nd picture shows the part of the cathedral walls that are part of the 2,000 year old city walls built by the Romans.
    The 3rd picture is of the nave just inside the entrance. The wall in front is part of a surround in which is a set of choir stalls. The 4th picture is in front of that enclosure looking at the chancel. The 5th picture is even farther forward and includes the crypt with the tomb of St. Eulalia. Eulalia was a 13 year old girl who refused to recant during the Diocletian persecution and so was killed. She is co-patron saint of Barcelona.
    The 6th and 7th pictures are a couple examples of the many side chapels here.
    Off to the side is a cloister with a fountain and water feature where 13 white geese are kept. It is said that there are 13 to remember Saint Eulalia's age when she was martyred.
    The last picture is a view from the roof of the cathedral. Wouldn't you know it? I entered the cathedral from a sunny day. By the time I got to the roof, it was raining.    Read more

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    Barcelona

    May 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Barcelona is a world class city, the largest in Catalonia (2nd largest in Spain). Catalonia is the northwest of Spain, abutting France, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean and Andorra (see another post). There is much to see here; so there are several posts.
    Not surprisingly, Barcelona was founded by the Romans about 2,000 years ago, although there are legends claiming it was founded by Hercules, in one case and by Hamilcar Barca of Carthage in the second.
    This post gathers some pictures from around the city. The 1st is an overview taken from Montjuïc (see another post). The 2nd picture is Barcelona's Arc d'Triomf that was built as the entrance for the 1888 Universal Exposition.
    The next 3 pictures go together. This famous block in the 3rd picture has several famous houses from the Catalan Modernist period. The 4th picture is about halfway down the block and is typical modernist. In this case, it is partly Flemish in character along with the typical modernist mix of tiles, glass and more. The next is the Casa Battló by Gaudí, the architect of Sagrada Familia (see another post). The 6th picture is another building by Gaudí just up the street a couple blocks: Casa Milà. There is much too much to say about Gaudí for a single post like this. I'll leave that to your browser.
    No look at Barcelona would be complete without a picture along La Rambla which is the 7th picture. Probably the most famous street in Barcelona, La Rambla is a bit more than 1 kilometer in length, is a pedestrian way and is filled with shopping and restaurants. And it's a good place for a paseo.
    The last 2 pictures look at the Mediterranean. The 8th is the commercial port, taken from Montjuïc, and the 9th is the marina. You might be interested to know that the big yacht to the right isn't a cruise ship. It's a private yacht.    Read more

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    Andorra

    May 6, 2022 in Andorra ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    A small country in the Pyrenees Mountains between Spain and France. The Principality of Andorra (as it is officially known) traces its history to Charlemagne, but the nation as it exists dates to 1278.
    The oldest archaeological evidence here dates to the 10th millennium BCE. Like most of this part of Europe, the Romans were here, beginning in the 2nd century BCE.
    I only had a day here. So I spent it in the capital city of Andorra La Vella.
    The 1st picture looks over the city from a high point on a trail that unfortunate ended due to a washout. Otherwise I would have gotten farther up. The 2nd picture is another view over part of the town.
    The 3rd looks up the River Valira from below downtown. Both pictures give a sense of the beauty of the Pyrenees.
    The 4th picture is an interesting bridge in the center of town.
    The 5th picture is in St. Esteve church that dates to the 12th century. Not much of the ancient church remains, but this chapel is the oldest.
    Andorra la Valle is known as a city full of interesting and unusual statues. The 6th picture is one example. The 7th picture is an interesting foot bridge that I decided to call the whale bone bridge. As far as I know, it is otherwise unnamed.
    Much old and new exists here, often side by side. The 8th picture is a typical street in the old town while the 9th picture is the main pedestrian shopping street in the modern city.
    The 10th picture is part of central park. Ok. Not in NYC. After all, Andorra la Vella is a lot smaller, and so is the park. This park is geared to families with a large playground just visible in the background.    Read more

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    Park Guëll

    May 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After Sagrada Familia (see another post), probably the best known place in Barcelona is Park Guëll. This site was actually begun as a housing development intended to be a gated community of 56 houses. Count Eusebi Guëll engaged Antoni Gaudí to design the site and houses. Work began in 1900 with most site design elements completed. However, the housing development failed. Only 1 house was sold. It was probably too far out from the city as it existed then.
    It became the public Park Guëll in 1926 when Count Guëll's son gave it to the city with the stipulation the his home (in the 1st picture) become a public school. It still is.
    The rest of the pictures are of Gaudi's genius. The site has a road through it to provide access to the 56 sites intended for houses. A small section of the road is in the 2nd picture. Because the site is an eroded hillside, Gaudí built bridges over the gullies to make the road easy to use. The 3rd picture is a look at what is under those bridges. Gaudí provided protected spaces for people to gather out of the sun or in inclement weather.
    The 4th picture is the "theater." It is a multipurpose space for outdoor performances, family gathering, picnicking, etc. The edges have serpentine seating to make it easier for people to sit in groups and converse. What isn't obvious (and most surprising) is that the sand here is what engineers call a slow sand filter. Rain water percolated through multiple layers of sand to be purified. It then flows down through the columns in the next picture to a large cistern below. This is the central water supply and irrigation system for the site and is still in use today.
    The 5th picture is under the theater. These are the hollow columns of the water supply system. The space was intended to be the local market. The domes direct the water above to the hollow columns, and the mosaics are all made with discarded and broken materials--a very early example of recycling. Gaudí was ahead of his time in so many ways.
    The 6th picture looks out to the city from the theater. The building with the tower was the model house.
    From the market below the theater, a monumental stairway proceeds down to the main gate and model house. Halfway down those stairs is the sculpture in the 7th picture. This depicts alchemy and a dragon which is a fountain.
    The 8th picture looks up the monumental stairway from the bottom. Like everything else Gaudí, there is a lot of symbolism here, even Masonic. But with all the people, it's hard to see. Your browser will guide you to better views and interpretations.
    The last picture is the former Porter's horse at the main gate near the model house.
    This is rightly a famous place.    Read more

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    Cathedral of Salamanca

    May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The Cathedral, or more accurately, Cathedrals of Salamanca is an unusual, perhaps unique, situation. There are 2 cathedrals here that are joined together by a common wall. It seems that when a decision was reached to build a new cathedral, they decided to use part of the old cathedral to save some money. As a result, the old cathedral wasn't destroyed to make way for the new one. BTW, this being Europe, the "new" cathedral dates to the 16th century and the old to the 12th.
    The 1st 2 pictures are in the sanctuary of the new cathedral that was built in the Gothic Style 1st is the nave and 2nd is a closer detail the choir which is in the middle of the building. Note the book of music on the stand. This has the old notation for Gregorian chant.
    The 3rd picture is an example of the side chapels around the cathedral. The 4th is the cloister.
    The rest of the pictures are in the old cathedral. The 5th picture is the nave. Notice the extensive artwork above the main altar. The 6th and 7th pictures capture some of the remaining frescos. The 6th picture is at the back of the nave, and the 7th is a transept to the right of the altar.
    The 8th and 9th pictures are in the museum. These are 2 of the altar pieces preserved here. It is my understanding that all of these are from various chapels in the cathedral complex.
    The last picture is the final chapel at the cathedral that has been modernized. It's interesting history includes being the place where potential graduates from the university had their final oral examination by any number of faculty who could ask anything. I'm told the exam could last 6 hours, and failure resulted in deep shame, sometimes even being expelled from the family for the shame, and even suicide. Passing required the graduate to provide a party for everyone. This was a really big deal.    Read more

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    Salamanca

    May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Salamanca is a city in western Spain, not too far from the border with Portugal. The old city here has been recognized by UNESCO since 1988. Salamanca is perhaps best known as a university town. The university was founded in 1218, making it the 4th oldest in Europe, after Bologna, Oxford and Cambridge.
    The main square is called the Plaza Mayor as in most Spanish cities. The 1st picture is of the Plaza Mayor lit for the night. The plaza isn't fully visible because the annual book fair is filling the space.
    The city's history predates the Romans, but its importance began to grow with the Roman presence. The 2nd picture is the Roman bridge dating to the 1st century CE. 2,000 years and still in use. A major Roman road crosses here and passes through town.
    The 3rd picture is the Casa de los Conchas. Today it's the city library, but it was a private residence. Notice the scallops shells on the walls. The original owner was devoted to Santiago, and the scallop is his symbol. It is also the symbol of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. One of the numerous routes of the Camino passes by here. The 4th picture is the central courtyard of the house/library, still in it's original form.
    The 5th picture is in the nave of the Romanesque church of St. Martin, dating to the 12th century. The church forms part of one side of the Plaza Mayor.
    The next 3 pictures of of the University of Salamanca. The university is spread throughout the city with schools, such as medicine that need modern facilities located the the new city. These pictures are a couple images of the oldest part of the university.
    The last 2 pictures are of what was the Jesuit church and school. The 9th picture is the entrance to the church that is mostly a museum today. The last picture looks beyond that entrance to the main building of what today is the Pontifical University, a private university here. It was originally built as the school for Jesuit missionaries to the Americas. It was also a very important and influential center for theological thought at the time.    Read more

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    Porto

    May 13, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Porto is located in the northwest of Portugal and is the 2nd largest city in the country. It sits on the Douro River (see another post) estuary where it's history dates to perhaps the 8th century BCE, possibly a Phoenician settlement. The Romans called it Portus Cale. After being occupied by the Moors, this region was the 1st reconquered. The modern nation of Portugal began here, then known as Portuscale, which linguistically evolved to Portugal.
    Porto has long been a port city, and its most famous export bears its name: port wine. The 1st 2 pictures are taken from opposite sides of the Douro. The 1st looks from Vila Nova de Gaia (often shortened to Gaia) to Porto. The 2nd picture looks toward Gaia. There is an important historical issue here. The land on the right bank (Porto) belonged to the local bishop. So taxes were paid to both the city and the bishop. The land on the left bank (Gaia) belonged to the city. So taxes were only paid to the city. Hence, all the port wine warehouses were built in Gaia, where they are today. Some things don't change.
    The 3rd picture is Clérigos tower, a recognizable symbol of Porto. This is the bell tower of the baroque church and dates to the 18th century. The 4th picture is the Lello Bookstore where JK Rowling ussaid to hang out and conceived of the Harry Potter novels.
    The 5th and 6th pictures reflect the period of the dictatorship here through the middle of the 20th century. The 5th picture is the old prison, and the 6th is the justice court, built in what has been called the fascist style.
    Historically, Porto had as many as 3 Jewish neighborhoods. The 7th picture is a plaque that memorializes all those expelled in 1496 in order to keep peace with Spain who did the same in 1492.
    The last 2 pictures provide a glance at what the historic center of Porto looks like. This has been a UNESCO recognized place done 1996.    Read more

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    Porto Cathedral

    May 13, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady, better known the the Porto Cathedral dates to the early 12th century, with construction containing for several hundred years. The architecture is primarily Romanesque, with Gothic and Baroque elements added over the centuries.
    The 1st picture looks along the main or long axis of the cruciform nave while the 2nd picture looks across the transept.
    The next 3 pictures are of various side chapels around the cathedral. The 6th picture is also a side chapel, but this one is a bas relief in silver.
    The cloister and monastery are off the south transept. The 7th and 8th pictures are views for the ground and from the balcony atop the cloister. The 9th picture is og some of the traditional tile work the d crates the outer walks of the cloister.
    The last picture is the chapter room of the monastery. The coffered ceiling is decorated with paintings from the 18th century that creatively depict moral values.    Read more

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    Douro Valley

    May 15, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This is the spectacularly beautiful heart of the wine industry located up river from Porto. The scenery is so extraordinary that the 1st 6 pictures all show it. They are taken from various perspectives: from the deck of a traditional river boat to high on the hillsides on both sides of the river. The views are considered to be some of the best in the world.
    The 7th picture is of Pinhão, often thought of as the center of the district. This was taken from the traditional boat.
    The last 3 pictures were taken at Quinta do Seixo. A quinta is a farm or vineyard where, in this case, the grapes for local wine and port are grown. Both table wine and port are produced. And there is a small olive oil industry, too, using olives from the trees separating quintas.
    I'm told that many of the producers here still crush the grapes in the traditional way, by foot. At Quinta do Seixo, crushing is done robotically in the vats in the 8th picture. The mechanism is visible at the rear of the picture. The 9th picture is some port aging in oak barrels in their cellar. The last picture is the Sandeman logo. I'm told that the silhouette is intended to reflect both Spanish and Portuguese tradition as the business began with sherry in Spain and expanded to port.    Read more

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    Coimbra

    May 17, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Coimbra is a former national capital city that is home to the oldest university in the Portuguese speaking world. Most of its economy is built around the university and its students.
    The town dates to at least the Roman period when it was known as Aeminium. It is a hill town that was encircled by defensive walls, most of which are now gone. The university occupies the hilltop today.
    Starting in the lower part of town and beginning uphill, the 1st and 2nd picture are of old city gates, and the 3rd picture is one of the old towers along the wall. It has been used as housing, mostly for students. The 4th picture is the old cathedral, and the 5th picture is the new cathedral.
    Finally at the top of the hill is where most of the university is located. The 6th picture is the old palace, originally Moorish, then the royal residence after the city was reconquered, and now part of the university. The 7th picture is the new of the academic buildings built in the fascist style during the dictatorship period. Historic buildings were demolished to make room for the new.
    The 8th picture is the old baroque library, said to be one of the most beautiful anywhere. The 9th picture is of what are called the monumental stairs. This is another part of the construction of the dictatorship period.
    The last picture is of the university botanical garden. The garden dates to the 18th century and is still used for teaching and research.    Read more

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    Tomar

    May 19, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Tomar is a small town in central Portugal that has an outsized historical footprint. This is where the headquarters of the Knights Templar in Portugal was located (see additional posts). This post looks at the town itself.
    When the Romans were here, this was called Sellium. After the expulsion of the Moors in the 12th century, the site was granted to the Templars who became the feudal lords. The town developed, 1st within the walls and later expanded outside the fortress walls. Today the old town is located around the foot of the hill upon which the fortress is built. The newer town is beyond the old town.
    The 1st picture is the view from my room. That is the castle and convent on the hill. The 2nd picture is the church of St. Mary of Olival that dates to at least the 12th century, though the current building is a 13th century renovation. Many Templars are buried here.
    The 3rd picture clearly demonstrates the importance of the Templars to Tomar. That's a city sidewalk with Templar crosses everywhere. The 4th picture is s city park with a waterwheel designed to lift water, probably originally for irrigation. The 5th picture is a view over the town from the castle. The 6th picture is a formal garden in a park at the foot of the castle hill. The 7th picture is in the best preserved medieval synagogue is Portugal. It dates to the middle of the 15th century. You can see the Torah in the ark.
    The 8th picture is the main square, Republic Square. The stature is the 1st grand master of the Portuguese Templars, Gualdim de Pais. The 9th picture is a typical street in the old town.
    The 10th picture is part of the Camino de Santiago, the famous pilgrimage path. The Portuguese route passes through the castle and convent.    Read more

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    Templar Castle and Convent of Christ

    May 20, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This is, for me, the main attraction in Tomar. The castle/monastery was founded in the early 12th century by the Order of the Poor Knights of the Temple, the Knights Templar. In the 13th century, Tomar became the seat or main headquarters of the entire order.
    When the Knights Templar Order was dissolved in the middle of the 14th century and at the urging of the king of Portugal, a new order, the Order of Christ, was proclaimed by the Pope. In Portugal, the members and assets of the Templars were transfered to the new order. The Templar fortress became the Convent of Christ and headquarters of the new order.
    This is an incredibly spectacular space, so much so that it has been the setting for many movies. In fact, filming was in progress during my visit. So significant parts of the convent were closed. Oh well.
    The 1st picture is the main gate. The next 5 pictures are various cloisters scattered throughout the convent. I don't think I've ever seen a monastery with more than one cloister. Here are 5, and others were in the closed section. The 2nd picture catches a corner of the church (see another post) above th cloister. The 3rd picture is the hospitality cloister for pilgrims, clergy, traveling brothers, etc. Social standing determined which floor one was lodged. Higher standing, higher floor.
    The 7th picture is the church (see another post), and the 8th picture is the ornate Manueline window. This open into the chapter house (closed). The Manueline decorations, named for King Manuel I, celebrate the age of discovery.
    The 9th picture is an arched hallway in the convent.    Read more

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    Templar Church

    May 20, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Given that the Templar Fortress/Convent of Christ is the main event in Tomar for me, then the main event in the main event is the church. I was simply blown away. The church is round with a squared off later addition.
    The 1st picture is from the outside. You can see the round section to the right which was the original part of the church. In order to build suspense gradually, I'll start with the later, rectangular addition. It contains 2 choirs: the upper in the 2nd picture and the lower, directly below the upper, in the 3rd. The low window in the 2nd picture below the upper choir opens on the lower choir. The entry to the church is in the rectangular space between the choirs and the main, original, part of the church. The 4th picture is a small side chapel off the main church.
    The rest of the pictures are in the round church that dates to the 12th century. The high roof, the artwork, the free standing central nave, the carving and so much more took my breath away. I hope these few pictures give you some small idea of the awe I experienced here. I even backtracked to visit the church again, and I still left stunned.
    I'm told that the design may have been in influenced by the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the Dome of the Rock, both in Jerusalem. That's seems feasible given the Templar presence there and their devotion to that city. Also, it seems that the design provides for Templar knights to be able to ride their horses into the church and around the Charola, as it's called, to receive a blessing immediately before departing on a journey. I just love the practicality!
    I don't think I've ever suggested that some place I've been is a must see. But if you are at all into history, the Templars, art, or even church architecture, you need to come here. It's that big a deal.    Read more

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    Lisbon

    May 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The capital of Portugal and its largest city, Lisbon is not only the westernmost capital city in Europe, it is one of the oldest, second only to Athens. This place has been occupied since prehistoric times, and, like most of Iberia, it has seen waves of Celts, Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Vikings, and the reconquest bringing Christian rulers. Most of the voyages of the Portuguese age of discovery began here (see the Belem post).
    Perhaps the most significant event in Lisbon's history is the earthquake on 1 November 1755. Up to 40,000 people died, and about 85% of the buildings were destroyed. Therefore, most of what is here is more recent as the leadership decided to demolish what remained and rebuild the city along the then current urban planning ideas.
    The 1st picture is wall art that celebrates much of Lisbon's culture. Not surprisingly, it is in an entertainment district. The 2nd picture is nearby at the Praça Luís de Camões. Camões, who lived in the 16th century, is considered Portugal's greatest poet. Just down the street is the 3rd picture. This is said to be the oldest operating bookstore in the world.
    The 4th picture is what is left of a church after the 1755 earthquake. They started to rebuild, but found that it would be too difficult. Today it is an archaeological museum. The museum sits atop one of Lisbon's 7 hills. (I'm told that there are actually 8, but 7 sounds better.) Many of the hills are steep. So Lisbon has built many funiculars, lifts, etc. The 5th picture is the Santa Justa lift built by one of Gustav Eiffel's disciples. The 6th picture looks across the city from stop the lift. The 7th picture, taken from the same place is St. George's fortress.
    The 8th picture is near the foot of the Santa Justa lift and is the Rossio train station (formerly Central Station), a good example of Neo-Manueline design. The station is located at Rossio Square which is in the 9th picture. The square is officially known as Praça Dom Pedro IV, and that's the guy in the statue atop the column. In the background is the Donna Maria II national theater.
    The last picture is Arco de Rúa Augusta that provides a monumental entry to the commerce square on the river front. The statue visible is King José I.    Read more

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    More Lisbon

    May 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I just couldn't do justice to Lisbon in a single post. So here are some more images.
    The oldest neighborhood in Lisbon is the Alfama. This is the neighborhood least affected by the 1755 earthquake, and was not significantly rebuilt. This is where you can see what old Lisbon looked like. The 1st 4 pictures are all Alfama. 1st is a look over the neighborhood of hilly, twisting, colorful streets. Then a couple streets and a small plaza typical of Alfama. The patron saint of Lisbon is Saint Anthony whose day is 13 June. (NB, St. Anthony of Lisbon and St. Anthony of Padua are the same guy.) I'm told that the celebration here runs for the whole month. The decorations in the pictures are now being put up for that celebration. Unfortunately, I leave the day before it all begins.
    The 5th picture is the Casa de Bicos which means house of spikes, named for its unusual facade. The house that dates to the 16th century, is in the Alfama, and survived the earthquake. Today it's the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation. Saramago, who was the 1998 Nobel Laureate in Literature, established the foundation.
    Lisbon has a number of "color" streets that are dining and entertainment streets. The 6th picture is the blue street.
    Lisbon has some incredible street art. The last picture is one example in the Graça neighborhood not far from where I was staying.    Read more

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    Belém

    May 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Belem is located at the ocean end of the Tagus estuary. It is now part of Lisbon. Originally, there were 2 identical towers, one on each side of the river, protecting the maritime entrance to Lisbon. Only 1 survived the 1755 earthquake, and that is the 1st picture.
    Belem was an important port during the age of discovery. Henry the Navigator (remember your world history?) was a royal prince and governor of the Order of Christ. He was instrumental in starting it all. While I haven't heard it said, I suspect his influence is why so many of the Portuguese ships had the cross of the Order of Christ on their sails. (NB. Remember the connection between the Templars and the Order of Christ.)
    Pictures 2&3 are of the 2 sides of the Monument to Discovery on the Belém waterfront that has about 40 figures of people important to Portugal's golden age.
    Perhaps the most famous of the Portuguese explorers was Vasco De Gama. The 4th picture is his tomb that is located in the Jerónimos Monastery located opposite the Monument. The 5th and 6th pictures are of the monastery: the facade and the church. The monatery started out as an outpost of the Order of Christ but was transfered.to others.
    Pictures 7&8 also reflect the Age of Discovery. Both are national gifts in honor of the 500th anniversary of reaching India. The 7th picture is the gift from Thailand, recognizing Portugal reaching there, and the 8th is from South Africa, recognizing the 1st rounding of the Cape of Good Hope.
    The 9th picture is the harbor bridge that was built using the design plans of the Golden Gate bridge. The 10th picture is a copy of the Stature of Christ in Rio. I'm told the bishop here had to have one if Rio had one.    Read more

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