September - December 2017
  • Day89

    Day 17

    December 3, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -20 °C

    Up and off to terej national park nearer ub, leaving the gobi.

    Again it's a beautiful sunny day, but getting noticably colder.

  • Day88

    Day 16

    December 2, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -13 °C

    The white Stupa, that isn't white, or a Stupa.

    Stopped in the desert to buy some camel milk

    Headed to baga gazrin chulu

    A temple destroyed in the purges of 1930s

    Pancake rock park, world's biggest climbing frame

    Vegetarian booz
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  • Day85

    Day 13

    November 29, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ -26 °C

    What a wonderful day. After a lazy morning in our ger playing our newly learnt card game, umo, or 108, and listening to the eagles, we headed over to the dunes to climb the biggest one we could. After an hour or so of climbing, using desert grass to help us up when we could, we made it to the top. Wow was it worth it, sand dunes for miles, some giant, some tiny, sculpted beautifully by the wind. Pristine lines in nature, untouched by man. When silent, the singing dunes sang their earth song, vibrating under our bodies, reminding us of connection, oneness, the great power of nature.

    After breathing it all in, appreciating the view, we attempted to play in the world's biggest sand pit by sliding down, which turned into running and rolling as we werent slippery enough.

    After emptying the equivalent of a whole dune out of our shoes we drank tea and rested until supper.

    Supper was a team effort and lesson in making khuushuu, a traditional Mongolian fried filled dough pocket, resembling a friend Cornish pasty. Terrible for you, but delicious.
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  • Day84

    Day 12

    November 28, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -10 °C

    After waking up to the six camels outside our ger, we had some tea and breakfast and headed into town for a shower and some lunch. Vegetarian bouz and a potato salad.

    We headed to Khongoryn Els, a seemingly everlasting wall of sand dunes, jutting up out of nowhere on the vast flat expanse that is the gobi desert, a natural barrier for wind and whatever lies on the other side.

    The land dotted with hundreds of white gazelles, darting off here and there as we disturb their grazing.

    Quiet and empty, we eventually find a family with three gers where we can stay. The family invite us in, serve Georgian tea (with animal fat and salt) and Arias eats what only looks like horse penis. It doesn't go down so well and let's leave that story to the imagination. Let's just say it involves digging an emergency hole. The man of the ger shows us some of the gold he has found with his metal detector, Aggie says these people are known as 'ninjas'.

    Aggie tells us about how it is custom in the gobi to be able to stay wherever there's a ger, occupied or not, it is ok for you to sleep there and use their home as if it is your own.

    She tells us of the drought in the summer, and how it is predicted to bring an extremely harsh winter, why many nomads are slaughtering many of their stock in preparation so at least they can get some money, and why meat now is very cheap because of this. How mining companies have made an already dry gobi drier, rivers and lakes completely gone, particularly because of gold mining. It's heartbreaking, knowing how resource rich and beautiful the country is, and hearing how it is being exploited by other countries taking the majority of the profits. Yet the people remain hopeful. Hopeful for a protective and prosperous future.
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  • Day82

    Day 10

    November 26, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ -13 °C

    Left the family, sad grateful

    Headed to ongiin khiid monastery

    Played Korean cards game umo
    No one at the camp so we set up in an open ger