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  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 19

    Day 19 - Moremi

    August 23, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Accommodation: Moremi Game Lodge

    After the most incredible night sleep, we were asked to join the main lodge for breakfast at 6.30 am. Fresh fruits and good coffee and we were operational for the morning game drive with Gwist.

    "Is there anything particular you are hoping to see here?" He asked
    To which we both answered in unison "wild dogs!"
    As we started driving, the radio mumbled some words and Gwist suddenly turned around with a happy grim on his face.
    "Well hold on we are going to rush to the 3rd gate wild dogs have been spotted!"
    We couldn't believe our eyes when after crossing a river and driving way to fast on the sandy bumps, we arrived at the old air strip.
    In front of us a pack of 10 wild dogs with the sun rising in the background.
    Bound to be renamed "African wolf" we were told, the wild dog is one of the most endangered species (due to rabbies and farmers wanted to protect their live stock - reason why some of them are tagged and tracked).

    Back on the road, it was no time until we met yet another pride of lions waking up from their morning nap in the sun and slowly getting ready to head hunting. How magical to spend time with these big cats. We were in total awe of their presence.

    Just before our little coffee and stretch next to hippo central, we enjoyed a bunch of giraffes playing and teasing, zebras grazing and monkeys playing.

    Absolutely delighted by this morning drive we came home happy (and hungry of course). A great brunch and mandatory nap were on the plan.

    3.30pm rang and after a little iced tea and scones we were hopping in our safari car.

    And the magic happened again, a mother leopard and its cub walking back from the water hole to feed on the Impala carcass it had caught in the morning.
    Leo utterly melting with love in front of so much cuteness of the cub Leo.

    Never could we have imagined seeing so much in the same place we thought as we came back to the lodge and sipped on a fresh apéro.
    Enjoying a great shower after the dusty day, we dressed to the nines and popped some bubbles before heading to dinner under the stars.
    Staying a bit later by the fire with our fellow travelers, and as we were being escorted back to our house, a guide shouted at us. We heard loud barks and were informed 2 buffalos had entered the property followed by a hungry pride of lions on the hunt.
    Hopping into the car we drove past them, casually walking the isle to our house. After carefully jumping above the ramp we could get safely into our room with our hearts beating !
    More than ever we understood the concept of escort ! "It doesn't often happen, but when it happens it happens for real" said Gwist.

    Woooooow, What a day!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 18

    Day 18 - Khwai to Moremi

    August 22, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Drive: 125km + Flight 40 minutes
    Accommodation: Moremi Game Lodge

    Today we are swapping the tent for a beautiful room, the camp site for a luxury lodge. Today we are going to the Moremi Game Lodge, deep into the Okavango Delta to celebrate our honey moon and Leo's birthday in style.

    With our flight to Moremi confirmed at 14.40 at Maun, we were not rushed to start the day.

    A good breakfast by the hippos who spent the night just in front of our camp spot and a bit of time packing our bags for the next adventure and we were ready to hit the road.
    One more patch of sand, some deep, some corrugated, some a bit smooth, well one last 4x4ing for Fordy to get to Maun.
    A busy road with many rangers and lodge staff driving back to the bush.

    Making it safe and sound to Maun we had arranged to park our car at the head office of Desert & Delta, the agency related to the lodge.
    One last check to make sure we were leaving with nice clothes and an empty fridge and the company dropped us at the airport.
    A nice lunch and quick nap later we were ready to board the plane !!

    How exciting to hop on this tiny 15 pax chessna for 40 minutes to fly above the Delta! What a treat to see from above all the rivers, water holes and many elephants and hippos in the water. We even flew next to a group of 30+ vultures and eagles enjoying the warm currents.
    Until finally we could see our air strip.

    Waiting for us, an employee of the lodge in his massive safari car. "We have some lunch for you here or if you want you can head straight for a game drive" " GAME DRIVE OF COURSE!!" we said !
    So while our luggage was taken to the lodge, we were dropped by our personal guide for the week, Gwist, who was already in the park with some clients.
    In no time, giraffes, zebras, bocks and lilac breasted rollers started showing up.
    But it's not until we drove into a pride of lions sleeping that we understood what an amazing trip was awaiting.

    And boy were we right. When we arrived, greeted by lovely staff and fresh warm towels, we discovered an incredibly beautiful lodge. All built in wood, thatch and tek and decorated with African artifacts.
    Our house, a luxury tented structure, all opened on nature, with beautiful furniture, double showers and a bottle of champagne on ice.
    What a dream!

    At 7.30 our guide picked us up for dinner, as we are not allowed to walk around alone at night due to the unfenced property.
    Joining the massive dinner table with the rest of the 20 guests.
    Between the lovely food, great ambiance created by the staff around menus and wine pairing and the fun conversation at the table, that was overall a great first night.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 17

    Day 17 - Khwai

    August 21, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Accommodation: Mbuti Camp Site

    What a night! Surrounded by so many animals, the hippo grazing in the water, the hyenas howling in the distance and these unknown 2 little yellow marbles Leo made eye contact with when going for a midnight bush pee. From the little paw prints in the morning, probably a wild cat or spotted genet.

    Taking our sweet time to make breakfast observing the little birds at work, we made it out of the camp just before 10.

    Crossing first bridge we made it to the North Gate.
    Considering the advanced hour of the day, we mostly saw bocks, elephants and for our delight, loads of birds!!
    One of the coolest, the saddle billed stork with its superhero mask (see video)
    Time to head back to camp for a little break. Desperately trying to find some food, water, ice and wood!
    Unfortunately luck was not much in our corner: all the little Tuck shops of the village of Khwai had not received any supplies in a few days and none of the camp sites could offer lunch due to the same restrictions on produce.

    Finally we found a spot that could organize lunch for us. A surprisingly great Bolognese pasta, cold beer and cool shade, we were full and happy.

    Back at camp for some bird watching and crosswords filling under the trees, it was no time until we were so hot that we decided to head back in the AC and into the park.
    With a mandatory stop to watch the elies playing around with their babies in the river of our camp site.

    We were gifted with a fabulous sunset in the bush and our first kill sighting. Our buddy the saddle billed stork catching a water snake for dinner. How amazing to see the technique of the bird and the survival skills of the snake. However Bird 1 - snake 0.

    Coming home to a very warm evening preparing a fabulous meal together. Leo and her spiced cauliflower on coals and Lars with his steak on the braai, sliced and finished off Basque restaurant style, grilled in the skillet with butter, garlic and rosemary. Un délice !    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 16

    Day 16 - Chobe to Khwai

    August 20, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Drive: 255km
    Accommodation: Mbudi Camp

    After enjoying the beauty of Chobe it was time to make our way to the final part of our trip: the Okavango Delta.

    Today would probably be the most challenging part of our trip. It was only a 255km drive to get to our next stop in Khwai, but we were warned by other travellers who’d done the drive that it was no joke. It’s very remote with bad roads/paths of deep sand and lots of bumps and can only be taken with a 4x4. We were told to be prepared for at least 9 hours driving. Their advice was to skip this part altogether and rather take the alternative route, a long tar road which would be 3x longer in distance.

    Luckily the staff at Chobe assured us that it was not dangerous and that they take the road themselves often. It’s a beautiful drive with lots of wild and we should see it as an adventure, exactly our thoughts!

    We decided to listen to the locals rather than the tourists and after a quick pit stop in Kasane we were on our way. The first hour was a breeze and after about 90km of tar roads we reached the sand. We deflated the tyres and drove into the bush. 20km passed quite easily and we had only 140km to go, what was all the fuss about?

    Then the deep sand and bumps started. And it didn’t stop. Not being able to go faster than 10km we started to understand the challenge. Leo not feeling very well on this day didn’t make it easier.

    We did however continue to make good progress and about halfway things seemed to get easier. The GPS indicated only 2 hours to go and we were already thinking about the cold beer at arrival.

    Suddenly the road stopped. Or better said, the right turn that the GPS indicated didn’t exist. There was only a left turn which was an extra 2 hours drive. The path got even worse and we started to think we should’ve listened to the tourists.

    After 7 hours we finally made it to the camp. And although a bit agitated by the trip we realised that it could have been much worse. We didn’t get stuck and except for 2 wine glasses, everything had made it in one piece!

    The next 2 nights we were staying at Mbudi Camp, a simple site on the Khwai river. At arrival a huge herd of Elephants was taking their afternoon dip in the river closely being watched by the local hippos. We realised this was our camp! It was in the middle of the bush open to all the wild.

    We asked the reception about the safety and after a not so reassuring answer - yes all the animals are here, better don’t get out of your tent at night - we found our spot and got ready to set up camp, but not before an elephant came to say hi.

    A little nervous of our surroundings and tired after a long day we had a quick dinner and went to bed early.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 15

    Day 15 - Chobe National Park

    August 19, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Accommodation: Chobe Game Lodge

    Ah the joys of game lodge life!
    Waking up at 5am, heading for coffee and rusks at 5.30am and leaving for our game drive at 6am.

    We embarked in an electric Land Rover driven by our guide of the day: Botho, called Miss B.
    With us in the car, a couple from Tennessee, a mother and son from Miami and a lovely couple from England.

    Driving around the park watching the beautiful sunrise shine it's light on the animals was very magical. Fish eagles overlooking the river, bocks getting their morning stretches and...a single lion walking around. Wow what a treat we thought. Only to realize a few hundred meters further was the rest of the pride of 8. Chilling on the road, the older male lion surrounded by younger males and their females.
    Feeling extra lucky to be so close from such beautiful and powerful animals. Especially hearing the lionesses communicating in their deep roar.
    The messages may not have been clear to the male lion however, who seemed to have confused "should we go hunting" "want to come mating?" 😅
    Trying to make it up to her with some cuddles didn't seem to be the way to go either. (See video)

    Unfortunately after almost an hour, it was time for us to leave the cute cats to go explore the rest of the area. Spending a bit of time with some birds and we were back at Camp for breakfast.

    And boom time for our end of morning cruise on the river. No time to waste!
    The smooth glide on the river with the electric boat gave us a very relaxing time to admire from a close distance the elephants playing in the water, swallows playing around the boat and crocs patiently waiting for their pray.

    And without realizing it, it was time for food again. The lunch was served on a great observation deck from which we could see all the animals gathering around the water.
    Finally time for a nap! Lodge life is a hard life indeed!
    At 3.30 pm Miss B welcomed us again at the boat for the sunset cruise.

    Spending again loads of time observing elephants playing in the mud and refreshing themselves in the cold water, we then made our way to another bank occupied by a family of monkeys.
    Between the teenagers trying to ruffle the feathers of very defensive Lapwings, elders trying to educate and babies carelessly playing around crocs, it was quite a show. And despite the many attempts of the croc to move in between the playing branches and trying to blend in with it's environment to trick the babies, the monkeys made it out ok. Or at least until we left at sunset.

    Enjoying the rest of the evening at the bar with joyful conversation with the British couple, exchanging stories about animals and travels.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 14

    Day 14 - Mahango to Chobe

    August 18, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Drive: 450km
    Accommodation: Chobe Game Lodge

    Waking up bright and early from a night of hearing the hippos grazing and the lions roaring!
    A lovely breakfast on the deck watching the birds and we were ready to go.

    After 2 weeks of discovering Namibia in our car & tent, we had planned our 3rd and final week of honey moon to be a bit more luxurious in Botswana.

    Coming out of the cool sand road back into tar, next stop, Ngoma, the border crossing.
    As we drove through to the other end of the Mahango National Park, we were greeted by the usual cows and goats, but also a few giraffes and some elephants.
    We efficiently made our way to the Namibian exit border where a friendly agent and quick stamping got us in and out in 5 minutes !
    What a smooth border !

    Crossing the bridge, the whole landscape changed from bushes and yellow grass to rivers, baobabs and more elephants we could ever count.
    Our quick border celebration may have been a bit premature as we realized Botswana's gate was quite the busy spot. After having to step into a disinfecting shoe bath, we went into the long line of visitors.
    An hour later we finally got our stamp and with a quick control of our car supplies to check for animal products, we could continue our drive to Chobe.

    With Leo on the wheel and afro house pumping in the car we arrived at the Chobe national park in no time! Our lodge was one of 2 hotels situated inside the park. Giving it prime location for game drives. It also meant goodbye to tar, goodbye to dirt road and hello sand tracks!
    Despite a few deep sand portions and sudden elephant crossings we made it to the lodge smoothly with a great welcome comity proud to see a woman driving in!

    What a treat to arrive in this old safari lodge style house decorated with beautiful African furniture and bright colors, with our massive room overlooking the pool and river. Time for a quick shower and it was already time to head on our first game drive.
    Here at Chobe Game Lodge, in an empowerment commitment, all the guides are women ! We therefore met Refilwe our game driver for the evening. Hopping on the very comfortable car we headed out to discover the beauty of the Chobe river and all the animals around.

    In no time we were surrounded by thousands of elephants coming down the banks of the river to get their water intake after a very warm day. Around them, hippos bathing, baboons playing, all types of deers grazing and giraffes running into the sunset. Hard to believe so much life was going on peacefully around us.

    Making our way back up, we noticed something moving in the bushes. A honey badger quickly moving away. And we saw why straight away. A pride of lions had stolen his dinner, a juicy water Monitor Lizard. Seeing two young males playing around throwing the lizard in the air and running in the distance to eat it while the elders just enjoyed the cooling evening for a nap and a bath.
    What a surprise to see so much, including the lions on our first outing.
    Time to head back to camp, but not without a sunset view point of the Chobe River.

    A great dinner by the water with some traditional music and dances and a little night cap and we were ready to jump in our kingside clean bed !
    What a day !    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 13

    Day 13 - Mahango national park

    August 17, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Accommodation : Ngepi Camp site

    Starting our day early with a breakfast on the camp site deck overlooking the river. Goggles in hand we could admire the morning routine of all the birds, starlings, weavers, bee eaters..

    Time to go and discover Bwabwata national park. And what a highlight! A very small park just few kms away from Ngepi, with one main road crossing to Botswana and a loop to look at the animals by the river. The best part was the numerous off road routes leading straight into the river beds and sand banks, giving us many opportunities to simply park to observe. And with so much to see! The real wildlife as Lion King depicted it. All around the water, hundred of species and thousands of animals living together. All types of deers, elephants, hippos, monkeys, giraffes, ostriches, buffalos, crocs and more types of birds we could ever think of. We just sat there trying to take it all in.
    What a surprise and a gift!

    Back at the camp for a light lunch, cold beer and little swim in the river cage! (Created to enable us to swim in the croc and hippo infested waters !)
    And time to get cooking!
    Tonight's menu, Lars' 4h oxtail and red wine potjie and Leo's homemade vetkoeks, a south African bread.
    Chopping and mixing and searing and kneading. Everything was ready for the next few hours of simmering and rising.
    One last check up to smell the incredible aromas coming out and stirring the pot.
    "You should leave the potjie alone" they say.
    So we did and took a sunset stroll through the camp.
    Coming back for the apéro and a few games of Yahtzee, listening to the bubbling stew in the background in it's 3rd hour of cooking.
    As we opened to check it we found a completely black burnt gooh on the bottom. Not what the recipe looked like.
    But luckily we still had the bread !
    As Leo put the dough balls on the grill, we quickly realized that was not going to make dinner either. The dough having now turned into compact flour.
    From our original juicy oxtail Potjie and fresh vetkoeks, we were now looking at carbonized meat and brick bread.

    The gnocchi and caned Bolognese thankfully managed to turn around Leo's hangry melt down and Lars's afrikaaner's disappointment.

    What a day!!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 12

    Day 12 - Rundu to Mahango Park

    August 16, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Drive : 172km
    Accommodation: Ngepi Camp site

    No better way to be waken up than by the song of many birds. Waking up under the trees in Mukuku offered just that. Dozens of alarm calls running off all at the same time.
    Enough to get us promptly out of bed and head back to the jetty to watch the sunrise and admire the birds. Many new checks on our bird booky!

    Our next destination was just around the corner, a short 3.5 hours away, so we took our time to catch up on reading, blogging and napping by the pool.

    Getting excited for the next part of the adventure we headed off just after lunch to Ngepi, a stop-over to break the long drive to Botswana. We didn’t have much expectations for this camp but it seemed like a cool place to chill for 2 days by the river.

    A long and straight tar road to Divundu, once again zigzagging between cows, goats and smiling students, and we were ready for our turn off. Many little villages are organized here around the Kavango river, selling their wood fire and wood sculptures to the tourists passing by.

    Finally the Ngepi sign "7km down" followed by a multitude of fun notes about the road, some encouragements and generally loads of notes taking a piss at 4x4 drivers (see pictures)

    As we arrived in Ngepi, we discovered an amazing camp site, just on the Kavango river. A well decorated bar, a beautiful restaurant on a deck overlooking the water, loads of trees and thick grass to sit and read.

    We heard a little commotion coming from the observation deck: a pod of Hippos napping and playing around on the bank accross.

    But the highlight was truly to discover our camp spot, a patch of grass under the trees with an incredible view of the river. It was like stepping into a 3D projection of "Planet Earth"! The other side of the river was part of the Mahango Bwabwata National Park and looking straight from our camp we could see elephants, hippos, water bucks, warthogs, buffalo and many different bird species.

    We set up camp and we were ready to hop on the sunset boat cruise. Meandering between the pods of Hippos playing in the water, we made our way to the other side of the river, by the former "Buffalo military Camp". The soldiers have left and nature took back what was rightfully hers.

    The first sighting, one of Lars' much expected one, the fish eagle, watching proudly over the river. As we continued gliding on the water, crocodiles, little bee eaters, and many elephants came to greet with the most incredible sunset in the background.

    Coming back to camp and as starting to cook, the symphony of the night started, all the birds singing and all the hippos chatting in the water below our camp. Just then, one of our neighbors, a little girl came to tell us that the previous night, the hippos came out of the water to graze on the camp grass, "so just if that happens, stay in your tent and you'll be fine". What an adventure !!

    As we dined on Leo's sauté potatos, bacon and snails in the Potjie, surrounded by so much nature and wild life, we truly felt like the luckiest people on the planet.    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 11

    Day 11 - Etosha to Rundu

    August 15, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Drive: 430km
    Accommodation: Mukuku camp on the Cubango/Kavango River

    Waking up fresher than ever from our little clean break, we enjoyed an animated breakfast at the hotel with an army of mongoose living their best lives by the pool.

    Time to head north towards the Caprivi strip, destination Rundu.

    As we left the Etosha area we stopped to visit the Otjikoto Lake, created from a sink hole and now registered as a heritage site. Indeed, our guide explained how in 1915, the Germans, surrendering to the British, used this lake to dump their artillery.

    A few diving permits were given to discover the site. This lake is only 150 m wide but it’s depth hasn't been confirmed yet due to the many caves. The lowest divers were able to go was a deep 175m. Surrounding the lake, many beautiful species of trees, including the python tree (see picture)

    And back on the road we are! With a pit stop for food and petrol in Grootfontein we kept going north and were quickly reaching the begining of the Caprivi strip. Our surroundings slowly started to change more green in colour. We were leaving the endless deserts of Namibia behind us and heading to the water, mainly from the 3 big rivers: Kavango, Zambezi and Chobe.

    With the many villages by the side of the road, frequent stops for cows and goats to cross and many kids coming home from school we had to slow down a little bit.

    After reaching Rundu on the Angolan border we soon turned on to the dirt road and we arrived at Mukuku camp. An oasis by the river bought 15 years ago by an older Namibian couple ready to retire. Instead they created the perfect spot for travelers looking for a bit of shade, refreshment and in our case, a fantastic view points for birds!    Read more

  • Leo & Lars’ NamBots Honeymoon
    Day 10

    Day 10 - Etosha

    August 14, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the warmest night of the trip so far, we were all well slept and ready for a great day of looking for animals!

    A 6am wake up call followed by coffee and granola and quick pack up and we were crossing the gate at 7.20 just in time to witness the beautiful red ball of fire rising in the sky.

    We went straight into the safari mode; binoculars in one hand, wildlife book in the other, all windows opened - despite the chilly 9°c morning - we were operational and on the lookout for any movement.

    Etosha didn't disappoint. Just a few minutes in, having stopped to check on a Goshawk, we noticed 2 black spots moving around the open plain. Jumping of joy realizing we were looking at Honey Badgers on their morning food run. A first time spot for the both of us!
    Barely starting the car again, 2 little pointy ears showed up in the distance, those of a little Black-backed Jackal. Chuffed by these morning wins, we could not believe our eyes when 2 massive elephants walked by us in their morning stroll just a few minutes later.
    The rest of the morning, we were gifted with herds of Zebras, Springboks and Wildebeest from every point of view.

    Out surrounding were of a very deserted nature. Dust, dust and more dust covering the plains. But the few bushes around still managed to give a good hiding place for our friends the cats. None in sight!

    As we moved east and closer to the center of the park, we noticed the vegetation changing to a timid green especially around the wannabe lake turned into salt flats.

    A quick tea and rusk break and we were back on the hunt. Ostriches, Giraffes, Elephants, Lapwings, Spotted thick-knee’s, Kestrels, Kori Bustards and a yet to be identified bird of pray.

    We stopped for a lunch under the Halali camp trees, fighting of the blue Sterlings and squirrels and figuring out our next move.
    With no reservation for the night, we were hoping to convince one of the camp managers to make up some space in the park for a cute couple on their honeymoon.

    Arriving on the other side of the park in Namutoni, we tried our luck at the camp site but were welcomed with a very expected "fully booked".

    Time to check the options outside the park. Just on the border with the gate we found a beautiful place: Makuti lodge. When they greeted us with fresh wet towels and a home brewed ginger tea we knew we were in for a treat. If the grand architecture, designer furniture and massive pool were not proof enough of course!

    Slightly out of place, full of dust with our safari boots and shorts, we quickly blended right in by the pool. Leo reading her book in the pool bed under her massive hat and Lars catching up on world news and sports actualities.

    At a delicious restaurant dinner we enjoyed a lovely evening and good food. Only to come home to our bedroom having especially been decorated for a romantic honey moon!
    Cherry on top for us road trippers? The fresh linen and comfortable bed!    Read more

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