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Stuart KilpatrickStuart Kilpatrick
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har rejst i 5 lande Læs mere
  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 76

    Siena 21 miles

    26. september 2023, Italien ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    As some compensation for having to wait until 7.30am for breakfast they did put on quite a spread. Must be the best in Italy so far I’m sure. I did my best but was completely outclassed by a weedy looking guy in a very old Arsenal track suit top who was just going back time and again and loading his plate up each time. I think he must have been sent by his mates to make the sandwiches for everyone’s lunches. The poor girls had no sooner brought another plate of cold meats through than Fred had whipped the lot. As far as I could tell most folk there were in walking groups of some kind. Seemed my age or older and generally carrying a little more holiday weight. Apart from Fred. Maybe he doesn’t get to eat any himself.

    Rolled out of the hotel and on my way. Splendid morning for walking and no sign of all those that troubled me a couple of days ago. I suspect that they are now a day behind me, at least, and I would be surprised if any of them caught me up. I average nearly 20 miles a day from now to Rome.

    I passed through another pretty hilltop village today. This one called Monteriggioni. Managed to pick up some food before entering the tourist trap so it only cost just over 6€ for much the same as cost over 14€ yesterday. Italy really seems to go in for huge mark ups based on location.

    The village was much smaller, and very much quieter than yesterday’s one. Most of the tourists were sitting in restaurants or trying to decide where to eat.

    Some cool shade in woods in the afternoon. Doesn’t help the views over the Tuscan landscape but welcome nevertheless.

    Staying tonight in Siena. Big place. Lots to see including a fancy tower to climb up and a cathedral that looks amazing. Unfortunately neither of them are exactly geared towards a pilgrim hurrying towards Rome. I was too late tonight to see them and tomorrow they don’t open until 10am and would take some time to see. The tower only takes limited numbers and you get given a time slot. The cathedral has got all sorts of add-ons that “must be seen”. Even if you don’t have time they charge you over 20€ for a comprehensive ticket. At least when I swing past before 8am the outside of both should be fairly quiet.

    When I headed out for dinner I could only see fancy restaurants or kebab houses. Was trying to decide which kebab joint to risk when I came upon an Oriental takeaway place called Nui Mix Poke. You choose a size of container, what type of rice, protein, veg, topping, sauce etc. Gave it a try as I didn’t fancy a kebab and couldn’t be bothered with a restaurant. Quite enjoyed it. Cold, which I wasn’t expecting, but worth repeating if the chance arises.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 75

    Colle Val d’Elsa 17 miles

    25. september 2023, Italien ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Thanks to my early dinner last night and the absence of wi-fi or phone signal in my room I had the lights out my 9pm. Accordingly I was wide awake by 6.30am, well at least my eyes were sort of open. Usual breakfast and on the road by 7.15am. Lovely morning but the locals were treating it like winter. Well wrapped up and moaning. I was in the same skimpy shorts and t-shirt that I have worn every day for the last 75 days, rain or shine. It felt a little chilly to begin with but it soon heated up when the sun came up.

    Much amused to note later a similarity between here and home. On some of the busier roads the local council had decided to protect wayward pilgrims by erecting wooden barriers at the side of the road and make a rudimentary path behind the barrier. But as soon as the road got a bit narrower so that it was more difficult to fit the barriers they just didn’t bother. Not unlike the provision of cycle lanes at home. Put in when there is no need but not when there is a need.

    Mid-morning I came to a place called San Gimignano that I remembered from last time. It was much the same but not quite so traumatic because I knew what to expect. I think the local tourist board have decided that it is better to concentrate tourists in certain key places so that it is easier to target them with expensive restaurants and shops. And keeps them from wandering about the countryside getting in the way of the locals. This was one of those places. They came by bike (mostly e-bikes, travelling in convoys), by car and by coach. Big packs of them led by an enthusiastic leader with some sort of flag. There was a pile of towers, built years ago but as far as I could tell folk were just interested in the restaurants and shops although they also took photos of everything including themselves. Chaos. Couldn’t wait to make my way through the throng and get back to peaceful isolation. But it would have been foolish not to take advantage of a cafe and toilet in passing.

    Within a mile of the teeming masses I was alone again. Indeed I don’t think I saw anyone after that for well over an hour.

    My ploy to avoid other walkers by starting stupidly early worked reasonably well. I refuse to call them pilgrims just because they happen to be walking some of a pilgrim route. I only saw 2 others. Both single guys, about half my age, and judging by their kit I suspect they aren’t walking that far. I have got quite smug and superior when checking out the gear used by others, especially their choice of footwear. One of the guys was wearing sandals. Wouldn’t be my first choice.

    Can’t start very early tomorrow as breakfast is included but not available until 7.30am. I’m too mean to not bother with it and leave earlier and hope to find a bar on the way out of town.

    Got a little excited tonight when I discovered that a pizzeria just round the corner from the hotel was rated as one of the top pizzerias in Italy, had great reviews and was open already. Headed there straight away only to find it was shut and didn’t look like it was going to open any time soon. Had to hang about waiting for somewhere else to open. Had fusilli with ragu. Incredibly filling. Don’t understand how anyone can manage a second course after having that as a first course. Almost couldn’t manage the half bar of Ritter Sport Fondente chocolate that was in my room. But coped just.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 74

    Gambassi Terme 15 miles

    24. september 2023, Italien ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    While putting my socks on this morning I noticed I have been using my feet to clean the mangy floor. Required washing asap. Choice was shower - no good as just an overhead shower head and it seemed silly to shower when only my feet were dirty, bidet - if the floor was that dirty I wasn’t putting anything near that, which left the basin. Despite not being at my Stretch & Mobilise classes for a few months that was no problem. Never mind standing on one leg while brushing your teeth I think I could recommend regular washing your feet in the basin to help maitain your balancing ability. Stephen, you are excused that one, no-one wants to see your hernia yet again.

    It is a sure sign of a tourist trap of a village when I passed numerous restaurants on my way out but not a single useful shop. No food for today. Still it’s only 15 miles so not too much of a problem. I was also out of water but there were fountains apparently somewhere on route.

    Lovely walking today. Tuscany looking good although late in the year so not nearly as green as it would have been earlier. Don’t know what crops were there but they are long gone, leaving brown earth.

    No end of other walkers about. I must have passed at least 15. Almost all in 2’s or more. Not that I am walking faster than them all, I think, I just don’t stop to fidget as much. For example lots of folk need to stop to have a drink. Basic mistake. You really need to be able to take your bottle out of, and back into, your rucksack side pocket while walking, especially if in a group of 3 or 4. No idea where they are all going, or started from, I didn’t say more than hello to any of them. I’m not here to chat. Tomorrow I will start earlier and avoid this nonsense hopefully. At least 3 couples were American judging by their voices. Common factor is they were all just carrying what looked like day bags. They must be using a baggage transfer service.

    Passed a small memorial for the first batch of 150 Swiss troops that rested here on their way to Rome to become the Swiss Guards at the Vatican ever since. It is things like that that are reminders that the Via was the main route North to South for an awful long time.

    Arrived about 2.30pm but couldn’t get into my room until after 3pm. Plenty of time for a welcome ice cream. I asked in the local bar what time they served food tonight and got the reply 8pm. Bit late. No wifi in the b&b and no signal so I needed to head back to the bar to buy some water and use their wifi. It was pay-day at the playgroup and I had work to do. It’s amazing how long a Scot can drag out a bottle of water. While there I noticed that some folk seemed to be ordering food at 6.30pm. I moved fast. It seems that if you want something that they have already prepared, like lasagne, they were happy to heat and serve it straight away but if it needed actual cooking then you would have to wait. Excellent. Ordered and eaten before 7pm. Interestingly it is now about 8pm and there isn’t any sign of any cooking or anyone interested in food. Really don’t understand this country sometimes. Been forced to have a couple of pints while following the rugby and writing this epistle. Better get to bed now rather than hang about which would need another.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 73

    San Miniato 18 miles

    23. september 2023, Italien ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Nice breakfast which included the owner’s mother’s apple tart. Excellent.

    And a good morning’s walk. Back into woods which makes a pleasant change from the very suburban feel recently. And should have made my morning constitutional somewhat easier. But it was a Saturday wasn’t it. So what you ask. Well in these parts the local fellas, who aren’t out in Lycra or chewing the fat in some bar with their cronies, like to commune with nature. This takes the form of putting on camouflage fatigues, grabbing a large rifle or shotgun and heading to the woods to blast anything that moves. I have no idea what particular bird or animal could remotely look anything like my bare backside but I didn’t want some short-sighted cowboy taking a potshot.
    What amused me greatly was, on stopping in the first bar for sustenance and an angst-free visit, all 5 pilgrims who happened to stop there too went for a visit as well. There is nothing quite like the occasional shot ringing out in the woods to encourage you to stay on the path and go in bars instead.

    It appears that horse-riders have joined the walkers, cyclists and motorists in heading for Rome. Wonder who is next. Skateboarders?

    Afternoon’s walking was more out in the open, along on top of dykes, beside canals, finishing up in a climb to a tourist-trap village on top of a hill that they go in for in these parts. I was just nearing the top when I got a phone call from the owner of the place I’m staying in to say that there was a plumber working in my room and I wouldn’t be able to get in for another hour. Bit annoying.

    Now I don’t consider myself a violent person as a general rule but I am having a little trouble with an unfortunate habit I’ve noticed. I am often asked if I was tired because I don’t jog up a couple of floors with whoever is letting me in to my room. I have probably walked up to 20 miles carrying a rucksack in considerable heat, not to mention being at least twice their age, so what exactly do they expect?

    Tonight’s room is another one of these ‘in the attic’ numbers where I am banging my head every time I move. It isn’t nearly as nice as it looks in my photo. But at least I am on my own.

    Out for dinner and started to struggle. Plenty of expensive restaurants preying on gullible tourists. Chose one at random, got shown to a seat, given a menu, and then promptly ignored. After 10 minutes I just left. But that didn’t help me get fed. Finally found somewhere fabulous. They were fully booked but if I could be out in an hour and a half they could squeeze me in. Not a problem. Lovely pasta dish for 7.50€. Less than half of the cheapest item on the menu of the first place. That will do nicely.

    Now just got to get through the night without concussion.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 72

    Altopascio 11 miles

    22. september 2023, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    My companions were reasonably quiet when they got in. Can’t really complain. In the morning the solo guy left early, not without waking me by persistent coughing. When I deigned to take the eye mask off and greet the day I noticed that only one of the Italian couple was still there. Very odd. Had they fallen out? Had one nipped out to get the croissants in? With a chocolate one for me? I pottered about, as I do, including putting in my contact lenses, when I noticed that they were in fact both there, just sharing one bunk bed. Silly old fart that I am because that never occurred to me. At least they had the decency not to try that nonsense on the camp bed, or worse still, on the upper bunk. Which makes the question of why bring the camp bed even more intriguing but, even for a social inept like myself, going over and asking them about it was maybe a step too far.

    I left before I had second thoughts. Really looked forward to seeing them overtake me later in the day with one of them lugging the camp bed but it didn’t happen.

    I have noticed 2 distinct types of tourist cyclist in this area. Firstly there are the groups of 20 or so Lycra-clad folk on road bikes, no luggage, staying altogether in Best Western type hotels, on some sort of Exodus or similar organised and led “Tuscany by bike” trips. Secondly there are the rather older couples on big heavy e-bikes, lots of panniers, and rucksacks, who don’t look like they cycle much at home. They don’t really know where to go, keep stopping to fidget, didn’t realise beforehand that light is good on a bike, especially when it comes to avoiding anything on your back. The signs showing the way on the Via for cyclists are now much more frequent than for the poor foot soldiers. Come to think of it I haven’t seen any pilgrims on the route for a few days now. My relatively late departures help with that, of course.

    Got caught by my heaviest rain by far at lunchtime, full-on thunderstorm, but luckily I was able to dive into a large supermarket just in time. Stayed under cover for nearly a hour as it passed. No rush to get wet. Noticed a couple of these groups of cyclists looking pretty miserable going past. Didn’t fancy that much. My only disappointment was that in the UK that size of supermarket would have had a cafe where I could have got a comfy seat, a coffee and a trip to the loo. Not in Italy unfortunately. None of the above.

    Despite the delay it was such a short day I was checked in before 2pm, leaving me all afternoon to get more accommodation sorted. Now fully booked all the way to Rome. Even worked out how to get to the airport in Rome. Brings that quite close now. Will be home in 2 weeks and you can stop having to read this damn thing every day. Relief for all.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 71

    Lucca 15 miles

    21. september 2023, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Leisurely start as a short day. Woken by thunder and lightning during the night but it had all cleared away by morning leaving some cloud. Lovely temperature.

    Had a fair bit of road walking today which gave me more chance to study the Italian driver. Compared to the UK there seems to be a much higher proportion of them who just want to drive quickly. All the time. If there are 2 cars driving along you can bet the one behind is tail-gating and will overtake as soon as there is half a chance. Quite happy to do that in a built up area. I stopped briefly in a park in a small village with a primary school the other side of the road connected to the park by a pedestrian crossing. Didn’t stop folk overtaking right on the crossing I noticed. I’ve never seen so much overtaking in built up areas before. Yesterday the traffic was briefly stopped as a lorry was reversing across the carriageway. 4 or 5 cars were stationary. The next car decided to overtake them all and pull in between the first car and the lorry. This wasn’t some peak capped ned in a souped up Astra, no, this was an old bufty looking not unlike myself. The other odd thing was no one blew their horn or made any sign of disapproval. In the UK there would have been bloodshed at the very least.

    In the interests of speed they want to take the racing line at corners. All very well but if there happens to be a wee chubby pilgrim coming the other way as the car comes round a blind corner then we both get quite a fright. There may be just no way I can get off the road so they need to rather quickly take avoiding action. Going back to the Russian roulette it has been ok so far but it doesn’t feel the safest activity.

    Had some grapes today. Why has the continent not cottoned on to seedless grapes? Is it only the UK that has noticed that seeds are annoying? Won’t buy them again.

    Staying in Lucca tonight. Like arriving on a different planet. Tourists everywhere. A huge proportion being Americans. Not sure what they come here for but come here they sure do. But they don’t seem to be staying in this pilgrim’s hostel thank goodness. Bunks for 10 but only 4 folk. Strangely someone appears to have brought their own camp bed. A stonking aluminium frame effort (see photo). Now when they were packing their rucksack, making sure it was as light as possible, only taking essentials, how on earth did a camp bed get included? Unfortunately it appears to be young Italian couple so my chances of making polite enquiries seems limited.

    Managed to get a meal at 6pm for once. It did mean I was stuck with a tourist place in the middle of Piazza Angiteatro and you don’t get more touristy than that here. And it was a pizza again but being able to eat my fill for 8.50€ is awfully tempting.

    Managed to get back to the hostel and get this written before lights out is a major plus. No sign of the others yet so I will get to bed first. Almost certainly will get up last so the etiquette should be they have to crawl about in semi-darkness going to bed and then again in the morning. We shall see. And I get 10 or 11 hours in my kip. Can’t be bad.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 70

    Camaiore 16 miles

    20. september 2023, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    As suspected 10pm isn’t when the youngsters go to bed around here. But in truth, once the double glazed windows were firmly shut and the ear plugs were in place they were not a problem.

    Coolest day so far in Italy. No need for that expensive suntan lotion. I will be upset if it doesn’t get used as I only have hand luggage on the flight back so it will need to get binned. And the forecast for tomorrow is thunderstorms. Really wish the lotion could protect me from lightning strikes.

    Had a bit of fun today with the pedestrian crossings. It’s a bit like playing Russian roulette I suppose. You think it is going well but there is always the chance it won’t. The trick is understanding the Italian driver. He/She is not going to give way unless they absolutely have to. There is no point in waiting for the traffic to stop before you venture out. Because it won’t. You have to wait until there is enough of a gap for you to step out firmly and the oncoming car is able to make an emergency stop. Obviously if it doesn’t have time to stop it isn’t going to end well. But once the driver realises that if he/she doesn’t stop there is going to be a pilgrim sized dent in the car then they seem happy enough to make that drastic stop. So that is half the road controlled. The other half should be easier because they get more warning of your intention. Don’t expect them to stop just because you are crossing. They will only stop if they calculate that at your rate of progress across the road they will knock you down if avoiding action is not taken. I suspect that if they get their nose in front so that you walk into the side of the speeding car then it is simply more fool you. I haven’t put that one to test yet.

    Arrived at the BnB about 2.30pm so plenty of time to do some more booking. Think I only have 4 nights left to arrange. And tomorrow night should be my last dormitory night. Can’t wait.

    Out to a recommended place for dinner. Tried the mixed antipasti. Mighty good although I don’t know what everything was. And then pasta. Had a bit of trouble with communication. Waiter asked if I wanted to sit inside or outside. I said inside ( to avoid the dreaded smokers), he repeated “inside” but then led me outside. Later I requested white wine, he repeated “white wine” but then brought me red.

    On my way back I passed an open gelateria. There was absolutely no need. I was well stuffed already but it just felt wrong to ignore it.

    Anyway, I was quite short of photos. As if I have ever needed an excuse to buy ice cream.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 69

    Massa 19 miles

    19. september 2023, Italien ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

    About the only downside to having an apartment rather than a room or just a bed in a dormitory is it gives you more places to put your stuff. And in the morning you need to get hold of all that stuff again. Moving on every day for over 80 nights gives plenty of scope for leaving all sorts of useful things. This morning I nearly made the basic error of not pulling back the bedcover. The problem arises when you are alone in a double bed as has frequently been the case in this walk. Things get dumped on the unused half of the bed. The cover ends up over them and you never notice. Disaster avoided this morning but only just.

    This morning I discarded a specially bought, but hardly used, bottle of shaving oil. I thought it would be a relatively light way of taking something to help shave. But actually I much prefer using whatever shampoo or soap is around and I’m not continuing to carry anything that isn’t needed. Might be worth going through everything just in case there are other bits and pieces I can discard.

    I have had to buy more suntan lotion as 2 x 300ml bottles have proved not quite enough. Was in a discount supermarket and scoured the shelves looking for it. None to be seen. Ended up in a chemist. Couldn’t see any. Asked the assistant who went to the bottom drawer of a cupboard and rummaged about, finally bringing out a choice of two. I asked if Italians don’t use such stuff. She laughed and said “not now, maybe next August”. Still seems pretty hot to me. There aren’t many days I think I can get away without a liberal smearing over any exposed flesh.

    Pretty straightforward day’s walking. Seemed to be in urban area just about all day. Only problem with that is if one decides to offload last night’s pizza. Bears and pilgrims may happily go in the woods but in amongst houses doesn’t seem quite right somehow. Luckily, I came upon a cafe and just had to have the second chocolate croissant of the day as an excuse for using their loo. Not sure how healthy they are but they do give a nice boost of calories.

    In a municipal hostel tonight. Bit like a youth hostel but no pretence to just cater for youngsters. Single rooms but shared bathrooms. Only 25€ so probably ideal for me. A huge step up from dormitories but still half the price of apartments/BnBs/hotels.

    The hostel is very central, on one of the main squares even, which makes my drying clothes (first floor window, above the flag in the photo) a bit more visible to the public in the cafes below. I just wish they would all go home now as it’s 10pm and I need my beauty sleep.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 68

    Sarzana 11 miles

    18. september 2023, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Well the earliest room-mate was up at 6.10am he proudly told me as he finished his packing at 8am when I left. So what on earth had he been doing for nearly 2 hours? Everyone else had left by the time my alarm woke me at 7.30am. For the walkers the only practical next stop was only 11 miles away so why leave so blooming early? It isn’t that hot these days. Pleasant but not roasting. The chap still packing was a cyclist and I was intrigued to be told that he was just going to ditch his bike in Rome rather than pay Ryanair’s charges. He bought the bike years ago on eBay for £40 so didn’t think it was worth taking home. What fascinated me was that he chose to cycle from France, through Switzerland and down to Rome on a clapped out banger. I think I would have preferred a better bike and pay the charges. Surely they couldn’t be that high?

    Although it was a short day it did have a couple of 300m ascents to start with just to help build up a sweat. Passed close to one of these hilltop villages with a ruined castle that they go in for hereabouts. Didn’t seriously consider visiting it in view of the extra climb required but later regretted it as the views would have made it worthwhile. I could just about make out some of the view through trees but it was never very good. Live and learn I suppose.

    Got my first glimpse of the Med. The photo is not great but if you look closely you can just about make out a boat on a patch of grey sea beneath grey sky. I get closer tomorrow so I’m hoping for a bit of sun at the appropriate time. The route never actually gets to the sea, it gets about a mile away and then starts going back inland again.

    Arrived about 1pm but entry to the apartment was from 3pm. Spent an hour having lunch and then phoned, hoping for the best. I was in luck, the chap said he would be there in 10 minutes to let me in. Grand apartment even if a bit rundown. Not having to share a bedroom with randoms helps too. Had plenty of time to get organised, get some shopping, visit the cathedral and organise some more accommodation booking. Put my washing on the outside line to dry just like a local. Bit put out when it started to rain shortly after. Rather dampened my excitement.

    Tea was a little odd. Went to a pizza place suggested by my host, said it did local pizzas. I didn’t understand his comment but my pizza ended up looking like a Scottish chip-shop one. Small in diameter but fairly thick. Alright but not great although can’t grumble about a 10€ cost included a pint of Peroni.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeVia @ 70
    Dag 67

    Aulla 20 miles

    17. september 2023, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The big question for today was whether to stick with the official route for 20 miles wandering about the countryside or stay on the road which would reduce the distance to just 15 miles and would be a lot flatter and a much better surface and surely the road would be quiet as it was a Sunday after all. Bit of a no-brainer except the road was busy and on the first section that I saw there was a cliff running along right beside the road. So no way to get off the road if a driver didn’t move out. And the road looked that nasty width where 2 vehicles can pass easily and at speed but there really isn’t room for a pedestrian and 2 vehicles. Cyclists will be familiar with the problem.

    So 20 fairly hilly miles it had to be.

    And a lot more pleasant it was I’m sure. Plenty of time in trees so lots of shade. Not too stony on the descents. Even had a well placed bar for juice and crisps at lunchtime.

    Arrived by 4pm and settled in to the dreaded dorm. 5 of us tonight. At least I have a bottom bunk and there isn’t anyone above me.

    Headed off for a Chinese for dinner. I know I shouldn’t. Getting an Italian version of Chinese is high risk. Made even higher because I couldn’t make sense of the menu. Thought I ordered ok. Starter, chicken with cashew and rice with seafood. Except they treat the rice as a first plate and expect you to finish it before you get your chicken. Apart from that the food was ok. And it was cheap.

    Got back to the hostel at 8.30pm to find the rest were already in bed with the lights off. I hate to think what time they will be up in the morning. Don’t think any of them are posting much of a penguin report.    Læs mere

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