Camino de Santiago Spain

May - July 2024
Eight week trip starting in Biarritz France for a few days at the beach before seeing out on a forty day walk across the Camino Frances starting in St Jean PDP on May 12, ending in Santiago on June 20, 2024. Hopefully. Then onward. Read more
Currently traveling
  • 38footprints
  • 3countries
  • 39days
  • 599photos
  • 13videos
  • 5.2kmiles
  • 4.3kmiles
  • Day 7–8

    And on the seventh day we walked

    May 12 in France ⋅ 🌫 63 °F

    Hiked our first stage to refuge Orrison, an 8 km uphill climb with beautiful views, wildflowers, bulls, donkeys, goats, snails, sheep and fellow pilgrims. Made our way into the mist until we arrived the small refuge with a rest stop cafe where we would spend the night with about 50 other Pilgrims from all over the globe, USA, France, Spain, Portugal, Japan, Ireland, Holland, Thailand, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and more.

    After our pilgrims dinner the tradition of going around the room taking turns for each person to introduce themselves and briefly state why they are walking the Camino. Each had his or her own reason and all seemed heartfelt. The food was good, the people were kind, and the atmosphere is quaint.

    Lights out at 10 pm so we are all in our bunks. Hopefully we will be rested and up for breakfast by 7 then hitting the trail to Roncesvias Spain over the peak tomorrow at 8.

    Buenos noches!
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  • Day 8

    Half way there, for today

    May 13 in France ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We are climbing over still in France halfway to Roncesvias Spain. One more Ascent and then it's all downhill from here, literally hopefully not metaphorically.

  • Day 8

    Now in Spain

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Made it to Roncesvias Spain around 4 after a slow walk here up, up, over and down. Had a nice dinner last night at the hotel then visited with some other Pilgrims. Stayed up too late the packing my bags and prepping for today. It rained pretty hard during the night and there is rain expected today. As I wake up this morning, other than being a little foggy headed, my feet and buddy feel good. We met at 8 and start making our way to the Zubiri.Read more

  • Day 9–10

    Enchanted forest walk

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Had a great walk today through multiple enchanted forests over many stepping stones leading over mountain creeks. Lots of moss and wildflowers and rocks and cute slugs and beautiful Norwegian spruce trees. Climbing up, walking down making our way through the woods and fields and hills and towns and around squishy mud bogs left by the rain last night. Stopping twice to get Cafe con leche and a snack in little village bars. Finally made it accross our last pass, then to Zubiri for the night. Had a lovely pilgrim's dinner at the albergi. Now time to pack and get ready to head to Pamplona tomorrow. Buenos noches!Read more

  • Day 10–12

    The pausing of the bull

    May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We have arrived in Pamplona! We are checking into a hotel for tonight and then for a rest day. It is time for a pequito siesta.

    We can definitely start to feel the differences in our feet and bodies after walking 34,000 to plus steps a day. The walks have been both magical and challenging. Ducking in and out of forest, walking along the Argo River, weaving our way over it, on top of old bridges, or a long slippery gravel paths that go in and out of the forest lined with moss covered trees. It's beautiful scenery. All the while your feet have to figure out what to step on next to get you down or up the path.

    Today we took a few breaks along the way had a Spanish tortilla which is eggs and potatoes very delicious.

    We are definitely on the slow Camino, we left around 9:00 and got to Pamplona at 5:00. So much to see in photograph, take a rest, still figuring out the rhythm. Happy not to rush it.

    This is my kind of 9:00 to 5:00.
    ❤️↗️👣
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  • Day 12

    On the way to the Alto Del Perdon

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    As we left Pamplona this morning we walked through barley fields lined with red poppies yellow flowers purple thistles blooming peas on the pod. Mostly on a nice gravel road as we made up our Ascent to the top where we will find windmills and the famous Camino Pilgrim sculpture.Read more

  • Day 13

    Leaving Obonos for Magic

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We spent the night in obino's, and we're treated by our amazing host Maria and Pedro to a home-cooked meal at their pension. We woke up to someone knocking on our door wanting our luggage so this morning has been a frenzy. No worries Pedro lovingly served as Cafe con leche and toast with homemade jam.

    Now it's 9:30 and we are heading off into the hills to our next destination 20 something kilometers away at a magical pensione sharing beds with five other people at kilometer marker 666. Should be an interesting day!
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  • Day 13–14

    Casa Magica Villatuerta

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Arrived at albergi Casa Magica after a full day of walking across the beautiful countryside through Olive groves and vineyards and orchard and wildflowers. Inclines and declines but not too tough, especially with a few rest stops in the villages, or at a stand in the middle of a Olive garden. I followed a blue butterfly today for a while. It helped me go up the hill.

    We had a lovely homemade vegetarian paella for dinner with wine, a 3 course meal including wine for $18.

    Now time to bunk up with our fellow pilgrims for the night so we can get up and out before 8.

    Only 665 more km to Santiago!
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  • Day 14–15

    Stormy weather

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today we are officially one week in the Camino, walking around 135km, and it was an adventure. We left the Casa Magical albergi behind early for an action packed 25 k walk to Los arcos with Trina, Kathy from Atlanta and our Dutch friend Fred from Netherlands.

    It was a beautiful day with lovely weather until we got the last 8 km in an open stretch with no services, water, homes or protection. Just vineyards, Olive groves, a wine fountain, an artist camp, farmland and wilderness, all beautiful, exept our approach leading us closer to the ominous storm clouds containing thunder and lightning.

    As we walked through the fields of wheat, barley, and wildflowers, we scoped out ditches to duck in of needed. We didn't touch the metal on our treking poles. We kept walking because there was no other choice, really. We made it to the town of Los Arcos around 7 pm, soaking wet, 40,000 steps later. As we arrived a man warmed us if the danger "pericola!" Before is... the city Streets were fenced off for the running of the bulls in the for their fiesta tonight around 8pm.

    We were soaked and cold and wanted to get through to find a bar to call a taxi. I looked at our map app and it would be a 40 minute walk to our hotel. No way. We decided to watch for a while, bulls were a symbol I was looking for on the way and here they are stopping is in our tracks.

    I had a beer in my pack we bought 4 hours ago. We shared it in my old metal cup I brought to drink rosado from the famous bodegas Irache wine fountain earlier on our route today.

    We hid behind the fence with a group of local senoritas dressed in red and white and watched the festivities of bulls and boys running and jumping over the fence for a bit, then called the hotel for transport. Another 10 minute walk to get to that. Progress.

    As we arrived we were deliriously laughing. We didn't know we were staying in a truck stop outside of town near the highway. Well at least we could get a hot shower, put up our feet and not sleep with a dorm room full of other Pilgrims.

    This surprise destination feels like luxury after our long day, complete with a loaded convenience store filled with jamon Ruffles, candy bars and $5 bottles of vino tinto. Plus a bar restaurant where we had a not so great dinner, but happy to have it. I'm not sure how they gather a 3 star ranking, but it is clean and friendly and convenient... if you are in a car. A Camino, not so much.

    So grateful for a place to rest and not be struck by lightning today or trampled by bulls. Today was not the day for that.

    Life is good! 🐂♉🐂
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  • Day 15–17

    Rest Stop in Logroño

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    After recovering from our 12-hour day on the Camino that ended with an exciting rainstorm and Bull run on Sunday, Trina and I decided it was time for a break, and one of our guidebooks recommended Logroño as a perfect rest stop. We got a ride on the highway A12 from our truck stop hotel to our two night rest stop in Logrono and checked into two nice private rooms located right in the center of town.

    My feet are in need of a break due to my pinky toes being very swollen and blisters are trying to form on my heel. Trina is fighting off a cold, probably from the sick New Zealand woman sharing our room of five beds in the Magical Albergi. She was coughing and admitted to being very ill and a nurse, one would think she should have known better than to be in a communal place. But, maybe there was nowhere else for her to go. Maybe she couldn't afford to take a taxi to the next town? Who knows. Anyway both of us now have sinus symptoms and I'm hoping it's just allergies. We've been walking through wildflowers for over a week and our bodies are adapting to this new environment and activity level. It'll be alright.

    In addition to resting up for our walk through the Rioja region, we have decided to use our two days of Camino "time off " to do some needed trip planning and other chores. First we had lunch at the classic Cafe Moderno, a vintage diner experience with lots of locals enjoying the 3 course lunch menu with vino.

    After a long lunch of salad, soup, chicken and fish, we strolled to check out the neighborhood and found we're staying right up from the famous Calle del Laurel a lively pedestrian Street in Logroño's old town featuring over 50 restaurants & tapas bars serving traditional pinchos. We tried a BBQ sandwich pincho on the way home with a cafe con leche, then went back to our hotel for a nap.

    We rallied around 5:00 and set out for the pharmacy, pop into the cathedral for a look at their famous art collection, and then to do our laundry while we plan the next stages of our trip through Sunday. We sat down in a bar on the corner and drank the Rioja de la Casa which came with a small bowl of pork rinds. Yum! We made reservations at the next 4 Camino stages in two hotels, one albergi, and splurging with a shared room at a Parador. We are breaking up our stages into smaller sections so that we do not overdo it. We have realized that 28 km in one day, with the assents and descents is too much for us at this time. And we are trying to get synced back up with two of the ladies that we walked with from St Jean who are one day behind is.

    Even though we didn't walk Monday, we made a lot of progress, including getting an excellent night's sleep in what would be considered a luxurious room comparatively speaking. There is a small Nespresso machine quietly luring me to get out of this very comfortable bed, that, truth be told, I could lie in all day. But, this town looks really interesting and it seems a shame to not spend some time exploring it. And there is an art deco cafe right next door with a lovely desayuno calling my name.

    Now that we have walked from the Navarra region into Rioja, I looked at booking a half day wine tour today, but we decided that may be too much to do if we want to successfully get back to our pilgrim life tomorrow.

    Today we will decide whether we will ship some items onward to Santiago at the post office to lighten our load. We will get our bags ready to take to the Albergi for transport tomorrow, and we will enjoy tapas and hopefully meeting up with our fellow Pilgrim Friends who are arriving in town today. And we will also rest so our bodies can carry us for the next 600 plus km.

    We are enjoying the journey.
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