• AmyInWonderland
mei – jul. 2024

Camino de Santiago Spain

Eight week trip starting in Biarritz France for a few days at the beach before seeing out on a forty day walk across the Camino Frances starting in St Jean PDP on May 12, ending in Santiago on June 20, 2024. Hopefully. Then onward. Meer informatie
  • Top bunk curfew time

    25–26 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    When you stay in an Albergi, aka Pilgrim hostel, curfew is at 10, which means they lock you out if your not back, and if you are back you have to go to bed, lights out in your bunk. I didn't know which is worse, being locked out of in the bunk lol. Trina and I are in the top bunk, lucky us😅having a giggle fit while the nice Korean couple below us are snoring.

    Ok shhh. lights out, night night.

    Oh, and your kicked out by 8 am.

    I think a bus ride is in our future during party of our 30 k to Atpuerco manaña.
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  • Villafranca to Atapuerca

    26–27 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We left our bunk bed dorm camp in belorado and took a quick taxi to Villa Franca to begin our 18 km walk on Sunday. We started out directly going uphill, luckily this day was going to be mostly a walk through the forest, providing shade after walking for 2 days through fields and sunshine.

    There were several small villages scattered along the walk after the long stretch through the woods, and then more fields.

    As we move further along the Camino we are starting to recognize fellow Pilgrims, quickly able to identify them from their country, Belgium, France, Netherlands, Italy, Israel, Canada, USA, and a large contingency from Ireland! Its fun to talk with each other in many languages while taking a break at the much anticipated bar in each passing village.
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  • Body complete, mind next

    26–27 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We ended our 18k walk yesterday at Atapuerco, and due to a mix-up at the Albergue where we reserved dorm beds, we were able to get a small private room at another hostel. Lucky us! Two little beds and a little bathroom in the little town. We met up with our friend glennis from New Zealand and Cheryl and had dinner of bar pizza and wine that the only place open in town. All of the pilgrims were dining there and happily resting after a long walk through the forest and fields.

    Today we are staying in Burgos which marks the first 3rd of the Camino completed. This part is body, and the next we move into the mind as we enter the long walk across the famous mind blowing Mesetta.

    Today I took a zero kilometer day by taxi with my friend from New Zealand Glenys. We went to brunch and toured the famous cathedral museum. Trina made it to our lush hotel after her 20k walk today, and now we are going to go find a place to eat some yummy food in this big city before we head out tomorrow for a long stretch of long days with very few breaks.

    Some pilgrims choose to skip this next phase because apparently the endless fields are relentless because of the monotony and for miles and miles with no services and no shade. We are going to give it a go and have already secured our bookings across the Mesetta until Sunday. Fingers crossed there's no going back now!
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  • Into the great wide open

    28–29 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today we woke up by 7:00 and enjoyed a wonderful breakfast of a variety of fruits and cereals at our hotel. The last few hours of luxury before we walked out of the city and into the great wide open planes of the Mesetta where we will be roaming for the next week. By now we have completed the body conditioning part And now we move into an expanse that is supposed to condition our minds.
    As we walk past the city after 930, I did not feel that my body is completely conditioned as my feet are screaming. The rest of my body feels good, but I'm definitely dealing with some blisters on my heels that I am trying to put mind over matter.

    Today as we reached the plateau in the heat, with zero shade for hours, I felt like I was walking from Savannah to Charleston on a warm June day. Barely a tree in sight , not much of a breeze, beautiful flowers and butterflies and barley and wheat and the normal rocks and dirt roads, sometimes over bridges, sometimes next to a highway, sometimes up, sometimes down, and for the most part, it was steady as she goes.

    I listened to music to keep me moving and to keep my mind off of thinking about my feet. My new soundtrack for the Camino is Trevor Hall's new album. I'm thinking about the letter I'm going to write to him to let him know about this experience and the music video I have already created for him. A few days ago I bought tickets to his concert in Charleston and I'm looking forward to going there. If you haven't checked him out, check him out!

    I'm definitely in a Blue Sky mind. In and through the body, walking by mountains and fields, under sun and clouds. Asking my feet to please stop screaming so I can hear the music that I would really like to hear. But I guess I don't get to control that. I have to just slow down and move on through.

    We had a 20K day today and arrived in Hornillos del Camino around 4. We're only 460km from Santiago! Which means we have walked roughly 340 mi if you subtract the occasional cab ride, and add back the walks around the towns where we are staying. All that counts. But who's counting?

    We have a simple private room with two little single beds, with a private shower and bathroom of our own. We are grateful to be here. We walked across the street to the one room little market, and got some Verde vino and local cheese to snack on that while our laundry was drying in the sun. We also got some bananas and olives to eat on our long walk tomorrow.

    In a few minutes we will will walk down the street to the end of the village where there is a place serving dinner from 7:00 to 9:00, with some live music. Hopefully it will be out early night tonight because we are planning to get up and leave by 8:00 tomorrow to beat some of the heat as we walk another day through the Mesetta.

    We will run into some of our friends we have met along the way. And then the sun will set late as usual, and we will probably be in bed later than what we think that we would like to be.
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  • Magical Meseta

    29 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We had our second day walking through the maseta on Wednesday, accompanied by the sound of birds and a Canadian named Helen. We walked 11 km to Hantanas, a small pilgrim village tucked in the fields. I stopped at the El Puntido bar and Albergi for refreshments and sat at an outdoor table on the Camino that passed through the little town.

    My feet decided that the morning walk was enough for the day so I called a taxi to take me to Castrojeriz. The driver was very friendly, she even paused for a moment so I could look at the Arco San Antonio which the ruins of a 16th century ancient convent, Pilgrims can still stay here without electricity but share a meal. It still contains recessed alcoves where bread was left for pilgrims.

    The hotel in Castrojeriz it's very nice and built up into the hill with lovely views looking over the meseta. We toured the tunnels underneath the hotel which were cold and stone places where people in the past kept their animals in wine and who knows what else.

    We walked to dinner with Cheryl at the plaza Mayor and had good pizza and chatted with a digital nomad blogger from Italy.

    As we go to back to the hotel after dinner at 10:00 the sun is still setting. It is so wild to have such long days.
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  • Mi amigos

    30 mei 2024, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Stopping for a break in the day on the way to fromista with my friends I met two days ago. Waiting for Trina and Cheryl to catch up.

    The Walk across the maceda has been made better by walking with my friend Claire I met last week..

    Being with people takes your mind off of your body which is a good thing.

    Only 5K to go.
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  • Carry on to Carrion

    31 mei–1 jun. 2024, Spanje ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    We enjoyed a somewhat liesurly morning at the hotel. We were so happy to have scrambled eggs and fruit and coffee and we're really in no hurry today. We opted to shave a few kilometers off of our trip by getting a taxi to drop us off on the alternative route so we could walk along the river with tree canopy. The cold breeze dropped the temperature by over 10° today on the Meseta, keeping us cool as we walked towards Carrion.

    We lingered for a lunch break in the small village of Villacazar, enjoying refreshments with fellow Pilgrims. Trina and Cheryl spent some time in the 13th century Romanesque cathedral. I hung out in the square underneath the tent and enjoyed the fresh air. We walked another 6 km on the somewhat souledd "sendas" or paths along the roadway until we hit our destination. We walked about 12 k today, and are now about 405 miles to Santiago... Depending on what guide or road sign you believe.

    Our hotel welcome was less than welcoming, as I entered the lobby I was "greeted" by a self-check-in machine portal that required me to give all my reservation details, insert my passport, and more. I was having a bit of a time with it until Trina got here because I could not complete it without each other's information to check in. Is this what guest services is coming to? After multiple failures, and words of encouragement from fellow pilgrims who somehow got someone to get them inside, Trina arrived and we succeeded!

    Trina went out to the rooftop pool to bask in the warm sunshine, complete with new age music. I went down to the neighboring square and had a glass of wine and a conversation with my temper and lack of patience for automated technology in hospitality. I also talked to some friends, then decided to go relax by the pool instead of listening to the singing nuns, a big Camino Attraction happening soon

    Now as I sit in the sunshine, I remind myself of the wonderful day that we have had, with warm blue skies, puffy white clouds, beautiful fields and a nice cold breeze. I imagine summer pilgrims do not get to have this version of the Meseta. Lucky us. We have everything we need.
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  • Woh I'm half way there!

    2 juni 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Made it to the halfway mark of the Camino de Santiago! Halfway there I'm living on a prayer!🎶

    In Sahagun tonight, taking the train to Leon tomorrow morning and a rest for 3 nights.

  • Rest. Repeat.

    6–8 jun. 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    After crossing the halfway point in Sahagun it was time to go to light speed, and then to zero speed for several days. We departed Sahagun by train taking us to the wonderful city of Leon, a place vibrant with hundreds of tapas bars charming piazza's, shopping, history, cathedrals and all the things you could expect on a historic Spanish city along the Camino.

    We rented an apartment and rested for 3 days in a place where we could scramble eggs, dine at our own table and wash laundry over and over again if we wanted to. We could sleep in and not have to have our bags downstairs before 8:00 a.m. and hitting the trail early everyday. It was just what the Camino doctor ordered!

    I was not quite ready to walk again when it was time to depart yesterday, so I took a bus to Astorga and now I'm staying in the most beautiful place I've ever been on the entire Camino, the Casa de Tepa. I am sleeping in an old attic. My favorite! (Carrie😂)

    When I arrived, I met the proprietor, Juan, an old man originally from Madrid, but for many years he spends his summers here sharing this 18th century residence with travelers. In the reception, he proudly displays his pilgrim credential and compostelo from his Camino de Santiago in 1965. He has been very kind, he visits me when I sit in the garden and tells I am magical, he loves me, and I can stay here for one year. ❤️

    I thanked him and told him I wish I could, and I will return to this special place one day. I am happy to have another day of rest here now, as tomorrow we will be back on the road again for the final 250 k to Santiago in 13 days with no more time for breaks.

    There have been many friends we have met who have had to stop walking or go home, due to injury or homesickness or other circumstances. It is sad to lose touch with each other, and happy when you arrive in a new place and see familiar faces. The hugs and smiles happen during these moments.

    The Camino is different for everyone and it is something you cannot control. I think pausing on the Camino is the perfect thing in order to live a few days in the life of these places that were made to support the pilgrims that are passing through. It is refreshing to not just move onward like a soldier marching across the land, but to stop, and linger and smell the roses.
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  • Let's get spiritual!

    8 juni 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Made it out of the Meseta and into the hills and trees! Tomorrow will be interesting as we climb the highest peak on the Camino, and leave our stone at arguably the oldest sacred spot on the Camino, the Cruz de fero. A 2000 year old ancient Celtic oak covered by a iron cross and a pile of rocks pilgrims have left for centuries to represent the burdens they leave behind, gratitude, forgiveness, or whatever they want it to mean.

    We arrived in Rabanal del camino just before a thunderstorm downpour. The Weather gods are hanging in there for us. Thank you!

    We had dinner with 2 Canadian mother- son pilgrims we have been meeting along the way, then went to an old stone church and listened to the monks sing Gregorian chant. Back to our 300 year old room to clean up, plan our next stages, and rest for for our journey of the soul followed by what is described as a grueling descent tomorrow for a 30k. Day of we make it to down to Molinaseka at the base if Leon's maintain. We have a card to call as taxi if needed. We will see how it goes.

    We have now officially moved from our heads/minds to our souls/spirits. 250k to go to Santiago!
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  • Crux de ferro

    9 juni 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I am speechless for the moment, and will just share some photos. It's been a good and long day, up and down the mountain with a soulful pause in between. It's time to wind down to rinse and repeat tomorrow.Meer informatie

  • Ascending and descending

    9 juni 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today we strolled through our highest points on the Camino Frances. Strangely it did not feel difficult going up. Witnessed a cow parade and chorus of frogs. Swarming flies followed me Every. Single. Step. Maybe I smell. Maybe I'm sweet like honey. Who the hell knows, they were relentless, invading the thoughts and sounds with their buzzing in my face. The walk should be enough, add a big fat dose of flies everywhere. So I turned up the music and carried on past the Cross, over and down the mountain, until I couldn't anymore. So much beauty walking along the way.Meer informatie

  • Galicia!

    12 juni 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    And today we climbed and climbed and climbed and climbed to the third highest peak of the Camino at o'cebrero. It feels like the highest. We started along the road walked along the river went through the forest up hills in the sunshine, back through another forest up up up up higher higher higher. Through another village no one there, there just ruins and cats and butterflies. Into another village stop and have a snack. Keep walking through more fields up more hills in more woods out into the open you can see the mountains you can feel the Sun.

    Today we have a 30 km day to get us to a small hamlet with only 30 residents because we couldn't find a place to stay at the top of the mountain. I don't know how we're going to get down there we're just going to keep going until we can't anymore

    . And right now we just arrived in Galicia after walking through the enchanted for us the home of the Celtic people. Thousands of years ago.
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  • Beginning again in Sarria

    12–13 jun. 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    The last few days have been spent walking through beautiful mountains and ancient Chestnut and oak forests of Galicia and sleeping in small villages. The walks were glorious and there was magic in the chill fresh air!

    Today, it's rainy, and we arrive in Sarria, to begin our final five days of the Camino starting tomorrow. Many pilgrims begin their journey here because this is a common spot to start at the minimum 100 kilometer mark in order to acquire the compostelo from the cathedral. Some seasoned pilgrims get a little salty about how crowded the Camino gets from this point on. I'm sure we will encounter some very clean, well rested, and enthusiastic newcomers! Nothing wrong with that.

    We have altered our plans to reduce our walking stages to Santiago from this point from 6 days to 5 days, which would put us there on June 19th. It will give us slightly longer walks each day, and an extra day in Santiago to celebrate with our new friends.

    Now... I am taking a rest today after having a stomach bug last night, so I will be better able to complete the Camino in the days ahead! I rode a full bus from Triacastela to Sarria this morning with many others heading here, and some to end their journey completely. From this point forward no more skip aheads, and must get 2 stamps per day in our credential/Camino passport. The final countdown is on!
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  • 10k to Santiago!

    19 juni 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We've been walking in the rain all morning. It's been a leisurely walk through the forest for us. We are almost there. We can't believe it less than 10 km to go. We are taking a rest stop. Which today means getting out of the rain and drinking a glass of vino Bianca.

    We will be at the cathedral in Santiago soon. The rain is supposed to stop by 3:00.
    This is our 39th day on the Camino. And while it feels bittersweet, we are celebrating. We are happy. Buen Camino!
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  • At last, Santiago de Compostelo!

    19–22 jun. 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    And on the 39th day of our Camino we arrived at our destination of the cathedral of Santiago de compostelo. What a journey. What an adventure. Photos and words cannot describe the experience, The physical walking, the natural beauty, the culture, and most of all the friends we met along the way. It's hard to believe it's over. It's hard to believe we are not going to be waking up at 7:00 and starting another day on the Camino.

    As we arrived at the cathedral we heard the sound of bagpipes playing in the tunnel. We just followed the sound and walked through. When we came to the other side you were greeted by the massive open courtyard outside of the cathedral filled with pilgrims. Friends we met along the way greeted us. There were smiles and tears surrounding us.

    Tonight we go to dinner with a dozen of our Pilgrim family. We celebrate and say some goodbyes, and since we will be here a few days we make plans to meet up with our friends in this town that we have been heading towards for many weeks...

    More to come after some resting.
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  • End of the road

    22–25 jun. 2024, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Our walk is over, and we are adjusting to being on our post Camino "vacation." After 3 days in Santiago, we drove a few hours west to the the end of the world, aka Finisterre, mile marker zero on the Galician coast. We have rented two cabanas overlooking the ocean and village below. We visited the lighthouse, went to the beach, ate Italian food and met some other pilgrims as we stood on the cliffs overlooking the end of the world... One being our long lost friend Peter from Belgium and his family, a pleasant surprise. He was injured and went home after Leon, so we were shocked and overjoyed to see him again! A Camino miracle! 😀

    Tomorrow Tom will drive Trina back to Santiago where she will make her way back home, and we will continue on vacay in Spain for another week. I'm going to miss my Camino Amiga! 😭 👯‍♂️☺️👣 And, I'm already missing following shells and yellow arrows to get to our destination each day.

    They say the real Camino begins now, after the walk is over, as you you bring with you the spirit and knowledge you experienced during the journey. Time to process and move onward and upward, or "Ultreia et Suseia" as they say on the Camino.
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    Het einde van de reis
    3 juli 2024