• Begich, Boggs Visitor Center

    July 10, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Wow! What a windy night we had at our boondock overlooking a glacial lake. And it never stopped raining throughout the night … not for one minute.

    It was still raining when we woke up. It continued to rain while we had breakfast and discussed our plans for the day … hiking was out on such a day; as was the cruise to Portage Glacier and the tram at the Alyeska Resort in Girdwood. It continued to rain as we headed over to the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center … overlooking Portage Lake.

    Our visit to Portage Lake this year is our third time here. The first time, in June 2021, the visitor center was already closed when we came back through the Whittier Tunnel. But we got to enjoy some amazing scenery at the ice-filled lake. In August 2010, there were no icebergs to enjoy … and our time was limited, so we took a pass on the VC in order to hike to Byron Glacier. This time we were bound and determined to visit the VC before continuing on with our plans.

    The interesting thing about this VC, which was built on the terminal moraine of Portage Glacier, is that it was designed to give visitors views of the glacier. Alas, by the time the VC was constructed, Portage Glacier had receded around the corner and there were no views of it to be enjoyed … though other views filled the void. Not today, however, as everything was veiled by the rain and fog.

    Despite the lack of glacier views, the VC is a great place to visit. We thoroughly enjoyed the movie … “Retreat & Renewal: Stories from Alaska’s Chugach National Forest.” The exhibits — many of them interactive — were also wonderful and very informative.

    A great place to spend an hour or so on a cold, rainy morning.
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  • Day 68 Ends 355 Miles from Valdez

    July 9, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    When we left Valdez this morning we weren’t intending to drive all the way to Portage.

    But despite the on and off rain — interspersed with the sun breaking through periodically — we made good time. In fact, it was only 1:00p when we arrived at the Glenn Highway turnout where I had planned to boondock with views of Matanuska Glacier … some 200 miles from Valdez. So, we decided to keep driving. And before we knew it, we were driving through Anchorage. Might as well drive all the way to Portage.

    We’re boondocking in front of a small glacial lake not far from the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center, which overlooks Portage Lake. It’s pouring outside … the wind is strong enough to create whitecaps on the lake … the mountain tops are wreathed in clouds that are likely dropping snow on the peaks … a distant glacier is veiled by fog. No matter. After a long drive, we’re happy to enjoy the scenery from inside the Cruiser.

    Our long day of driving has gained us an extra day. There are several options for things to do in the area. We’ll make a decision based on what the weather brings tomorrow.
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  • Day 67 Ends w/the Birds

    July 8, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Rain and drizzle falling from an overcast sky … fog filling the bay … fog lifting … rain stopping … fog filling the bay … fog lifting … rain and drizzle falling. Rinse and repeat.

    It was a lazy day for us here in Valdez. Not that we weren’t busy. In fact, we were … with chores as we prepare to get back on the road after an 9-day hiatus.

    Late in the day, we took a walk into town and had an early dinner at The Potato (aka the Roadside Potatohead). Good food as always.

    Returning to the campground, we took advantage of a break in the weather to light a campfire and chat with our neighbors. The screeching mew gulls that are nesting on the beach kept us entertained … and two of the fledgelings made their first appearance since our arrival here.

    Tomorrow, we retrace our route back up the Richardson. Eventually, we’ll make our way to the Kenai Peninsula … but first, a few other stops.
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  • Day 66 Ends w/Public Art in Valdez

    July 7, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    One of the info panels at the ferry terminal suggests doing a public art walk around Valdez to see sculptures and murals ... and refers visitors to the Civic Center for more info. The only problem with that suggestion? No one there knows anything about the walk. Nor does anyone at the Visitor Center or the Valdez Art Co-op.

    Nonetheless, we found a few pieces to photograph before returning to the Cruiser after our rainy day museum visits.
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  • Rainy Day Museum #2

    July 7, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Our second museum stop was at the Valdez Museum & Historical Archive.

    This museum has two buildings, but the one on Hazelet is open only on specific days ... and only to those who have made advance reservations. The building on Egan — senior/military admission $5pp — has exhibits that focus on native culture, early explorers, the oil industry, and more.

    As well, there was a temporary exhibit featuring drawings of the mill town of Kennecott. No photos, but it was interesting to us because we were in Kennecott just over a week ago.

    In addition to wandering around the exhibits, we took the time to watch the video about the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake. It was especially interesting since the story of the devastating earthquake was told by some of the survivors. I was under the impression that the 9.2 quake and the tsunami that followed in its aftermath had completely devastated Valdez. Turns out that wasn’t the case. But a new town had to be established nonetheless due to the instability of the site of the old town.
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  • Rainy Day Museum #1

    July 7, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    When you’re in a rainforest, you expect that your days might be soggy. Valdez is set amongst a rainforest. Hence we had another rainy day ... perfect for museum visits.

    Our first stop was at the Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum, which is associated with the Prince William Community College. Admission is free ... donations welcome.

    The website describes it as follows ... “See the wonders of Alaska through the eyes of a unique collector in Valdez, Alaska.” That’s exactly what we did. We enjoyed exhibits that included animal mounts, beautiful walrus tusk carvings and other indigenous art, and many other artifacts from around the state.

    This is a beautifully done museum and we’re glad we had a chance to visit it today.
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  • Day 65 Ends @ Columbia Glacier

    July 6, 2021, Gulf of Alaska ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Had we stuck with our original booking for the Columbia Glacier Cruise, we might have had better weather. But we wanted to go out on a day when there were fewer people booked on the 149-passenger Glacier Spirit. We got our wish. There were only 50 people booked today. But we got caught out by rain and fog instead. And the waters of Prince William Sound were fairly rough at times ... especially on the return leg. C’est La Vie!

    Born in the Chugach Mountains, Columbia Glacier was first surveyed in 1794. At the time, it was at the mouth of the bay we traversed today. The glacier’s terminus remained there until the 1980s when it began a fast-retreat. To see Columbia Glacier this afternoon, we had to traverse 15 miles or so into the bay. The retreat will slow down when the terminus reaches bedrock. Whether it will then begin to advance is something no one knows.

    One of the things Columbia Glacier is known for is the amount of ice it discharges on a regular basis. The glacier did not calve for us today, but we did have to navigate through a lot of brash ice ... with the occasional iceberg that we stayed well clear of. Luckily, the captain was able to get pretty close to the west branch of the glacier, thus increasing visibility and improving our visit greatly.

    Our wildlife encounters were plentiful ... sea otters, sea lions, harbor seals, a couple of humpback whales, a pod of playful Dall porpoises, bald eagles sitting atop tree tops, orcas feeding not far from the boat. Alas, it was raining most of the time, so I refrained from taking out the camera, recording the encounters in my brain instead.

    Was the cruise perfect? No. But we made the most of the “weather hand” we were dealt and left the boat smiling after our trip.
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  • Day 64 Ends with Rain in Valdez

    July 5, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today was another day of R&R. Not that we stayed home all day. No, we went out for a bit of exercise mid-morning that took us from the campground to the small boat harbor, and then around to the south basin.

    Along the way we had a couple of close encounters with a juvenile bald eagle. He (or maybe it was a she) was engrossed in a piece of scrap halibut from a nearby fish cleaning station, which allowed me to get close enough for a couple of photos and videos. That was a good thing since the camera with the long lens was back in the Cruiser.

    On the way back, we decided to have lunch at The Fat Mermaid. The place was still full-up from the late breakfast crowd. So, despite the slight chill in the air, we sat on the patio to share a halibut basket and a walnut/mango salad. The food was very tasty. But the best part? Apart from the delicious lemon mascarpone cake we shared for dessert? The cocoa-candied walnuts in the salad.

    This would have been night for a campfire, but the wind has picked up a bit and it is raining ... more than just a drizzle this time. Oh well.
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  • Days 61-62-63 End in Valdez

    July 4, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We planned our stay in Valdez as a “chill spot” ... with a bit of sightseeing.

    On our first full day in Valdez, we did the sightseeing by taking a cruise out to Meares Glacier. Then, we took two days off to just relax and enjoy some quiet time. Not much time outdoors, unfortunately, as the days were drizzly. And when the wind was blowing, it was downright chilly.

    Today, we did a bit of sightseeing again.

    Valdez filled up these past few days with people here to celebrate Independence Day. We opted to stay away from the crowds by staying away from the part of town that was set aside for the festivities.

    Instead, we walked through downtown Valdez and hiked the short Dock Point Trail. Then, taking advantage of the fact that most of the locals and visitors were at the community barbecue, we grabbed a bite to eat at the Nat Shack ... excellent (if spicy) halibut tacos.

    After lunch, we hopped in the car and drove out to the Old Valdez Townsite ... which was destroyed by the tsunami that followed on the heels of the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 ... at 9.2 on the Richter Scale, the strongest quake to hit the USA. There’s nothing left of the town, but we did pay our respects at the memorial before moving on.

    Next up ... the Solomon Gulch Hatchery which can incubate up to 230 million pink salmon eggs and 2 million Coho salmon eggs. From what I gather, however, we are two weeks too early to see the action when a small percentage of the salmon born here return to spawn at the end of their lifecycle. But there was a great video that explained how the hatchery operates so all was not for naught.

    Our next two stops took us to lakes in the area ... Robe Lake and Valdez Glacier Lake. The glacier for which the latter is named is no longer visible from the lake. But there are icebergs to make up for that ... dirty though they were. Unfortunately, there is no way to walk around the entire lake, so we made do with a short stroll before returning to the Cruiser for a quiet evening at home.

    We’re now halfway through our Valdez stay ... and we have more sightseeing and relaxing to fillet those days.
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  • Day 60 Ends @ The Potato

    July 1, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Disembarking the Glacier Spirit after our Meares Glacier cruise, we wandered around downtown Valdez for a bit as we sought out a place for dinner.

    One of the recommended places was The Potato, the same eatery at which we had dinner in McCarthy a few days ago. Same menu ... same tasty food. This time I had the burger; Mui had the salmon salad wrap; and we both washed our food down with a couple of beers.

    Great food to end a great day in Valdez.
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  • Meares: Wildlife & More (Part II)

    July 1, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Our wonderful cruise to Meares Glacier also gave us an opportunity to enjoy the scenery in the Port of Valdez, the Valdez Arm, and Prince William Sound.

    In the days when I carried all kinds of DSLR cameras and long lenses, I took a lot of wildlife photos. But I gave up that equipment to save my back. Though I do have a long-ish lens with a 350mm reach, the camera itself is not ideal for wildlife photography at a distance ... especially on a moving platform.

    No matter ... I enjoyed the encounters we had with humpback whales that breached, fin-slapped, tail-lobbed, blew, and dove deep to show us their flukes. As well, we saw North Pacific sea otters, Steller sea lions, Dall porpoises, harbor seals, black-legged kittiwakes, bald eagles, pigeon guillemots, and puffins (both horned and tufted).

    Our Meares Glacier cruise was a great day on the water.
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  • Meares Glacier from Valdez (Part I)

    July 1, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    From Valdez, there are glacier and wildlife cruises to two different glaciers — Columbia and Meares. Columbia is the closer one ... located in the bay by the same name. Meares is at the head of Unakwik Inlet and requires an 8.5-hour roundtrip cruise.

    Before leaving home in May, I booked Meares Glacier with Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises for 7 July. Yesterday, with the promise of nice weather for today, I moved that booking. So, off we went at 9:00a ... under overcast skies that brightened as the morning progressed. By the time we had traversed the Port of Valdez and the Valdez Arm, and negotiated our way north of Glacier Island, the sky was blue ... the sun was brilliant.

    Our ride, the Glacier Spirit, has a capacity of 149 people. There were only about 80 people on our sailing. Most of the passengers sat in the upstairs salon, so we had plenty of space to wander around the lower deck and our pick of the tables in the downstairs salon.

    We enjoyed beautiful scenery and plenty of wildlife encounters on our way to the glacier, as well as on the way back. I’ll leave those images to another footprint and focus on the glacier in this one.

    Meares Glacier, one of the few around the world that is not in retreat, is a tidewater glacier ... a type of valley glacier that makes its way all the way down to the ocean. This river of ice has a terminus that is one mile wide. Heading between Aspero Peak and Mount Michelson, Meares is 15 miles long. It is very impressive as it reveals itself slowly.

    Tidewater glaciers are more prone to calving than other glaciers. Meares didn’t disappoint. I counted five good-sized carvings while our boat sat in front of it, turning first one way, and then the other way. Mui managed to catch all but one of the carvings, but the video will have to wait until we get home so he can process the footage.
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  • Day 59 Ends @ Bear Paw in Valdez

    June 30, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    When we jiggled our road trip as we made our way along the roads of Alaska, we ended up with a couple of extra days before our planned 4th of July reservations in Valdez.

    We used one of those days in Chitina ... to wash away the grime of the McCarthy Road. We used another one of those days at our Worthington Glacier boondock. That left us with one extra day. With less than 40 miles left to reach Valdez, we decided to head on in a day early and see if the RV Park could accommodate us.

    And that’s how we happen to be at Bear Paw II, the adult camper park ... located just outside the hub-bub of downtown Valdez.

    We’re parked in site 5 — 50A FHU — overlooking the Port of Valdez as the waters ahead of us are called. We parked in headfirst instead of backing in so we can enjoy the view. We’re basically on an arm that leads out into Prince William Sound.

    On the distant shore we have a view of the terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The only sounds are the rustling of the brush — there is a stiff breeze at the moment; the screeching of the gulls that are nesting on the beach below us; and the engine of the occasional boat leaving the little boat harbor.

    We’re currently one of three campers here, but I imagine that will be changing over the next few days.

    After settling into our site, we drove into town to grab a bite to eat. Then, we stopped at the Stan Stephens office to reschedule our Meares Glacier cruise and book a cruise to Columbia Glacier. That done, we returned to the campground and did a couple of loads of laundry.

    Now, it’s time to relax. We will be here for a little more than a week as we selected Valdez as a “chill stop” after being on the road for nearly 1½-months. We’ll do some sightseeing too, but we’re mostly just going to take it easy while we’re here.
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  • The Richardson Hwy to Valdez

    June 30, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    It’s official. The Richardson Hwy — from Delta Junction to Paxson and again from the Edgerton junction to Valdez — wins the Cruiser’s “most scenic drive award.”

    I’m sure the Cruiser will add the Turnagain Arm to that award when it eventually gets to drive down that road. We’ve driven it a couple of times in the toad, but the Cruiser has yet to see that scenery.

    Here’s some of what we stopped to photograph on the way south from our Worthington Glacier boondock to Valdez this morning. We’ll be driving back up that section of the road in the toad while we’re in the area to take some more photos and maybe do a hike as well.
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  • Reflections & More

    June 30, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    What a difference a day makes ... or a night, in this case. Woke up early to find the mosquitoes were nowhere to be found!

    I just had to take advantage of that situation to get some decent photos from our Worthington Glacier boondock site ... including some reflections I had noticed in the pools of rainwater.Read more

  • Day 58 Ends @ Boondock with a Glacier

    June 29, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Having already scoped out two possible boondock spots with views of Worthington Glacier and Girls Mountain, we settled on the one that was an empty parking lot ... despite the mosquitoes that were swarming. The critters were so bad that not only did we have to don our bug jackets, but I also had to hold one of the mosquito coils Mui had lit in order to take a selfie.

    Once we got the Cruiser situated with the glacier visible through the dinette window, Mui lit a campfire. Between the smoke from the fire and all of our accoutrements for repelling mosquitoes, we managed to sit out for a while to enjoy a glass of wine and snacks.

    A perfect way to end another day on the road.
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  • Worthington Glacier State Rec Site

    June 29, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We left Wrangell View RV Park around 10:00a and drove the 34 miles to the Richardson Highway where it junctions with the Edgerton. From there, we turned left and headed south.

    We had a vague idea that we would be boondocking somewhere with a view of the Worthington Glacier. That decision was solidified at milepost 34 ... where we spotted the glacier and the icefield that fills the terrain between the Girls Mountains.

    But first, we went to the state recreation site that is named for the glacier. It is said to be the most-visited SRS in the system. No wonder, really. The four-mile long glacier is right off the road, and at least one arm is easily accessed on foot by way of a short scramble.

    The SRS is day use only — $5 for parking. We paid our dues and had lunch in the Cruiser before heading out to hike the short trail, which follows the melt water that roars down the rocky bed to a glacial lake with a beautiful view of the valley as a backdrop.

    The trail takes hikers to the toe of the glacier. We stayed well away as it is never smart to approach a glacier from below. We were happy just seeing the brilliant blue of the heavily compacted ice ... no need to put ourselves in danger.
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  • Day 57 Ends with a Rainbow in Chitina

    June 28, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Sometime last night, we made the decision to stay in Chitina tonight instead of driving all the way to the Richardson Highway.

    We considered boondocking or camping at Liberty Falls State Recreation Site in Chitina. But in the end, an FHU campsite where Mui could wash the vehicles won out. So we are back at the Wrangell View RV Park, about five miles outside Chitina.

    The 60-mile dirt road that we drove in 5 hours going to McCarthy, we did in 3 hours this time. Not because we drove faster ... our average speed was still about 25-30 mph. Rather, familiarity with the road and fewer stops en route made the difference. The road did feel a little bumpier in the Chitina direction ... I think all the rain added some more washboards and potholes.

    We arrived to an entirely empty campground. But checking the site reservations, it was apparent that would be changing. But we were good for the night. We’ve since been joined by one other RV, so it looks like we’ll have a quiet night.

    Today’s on and off sprinkles rewarded us with a rainbow this evening. Mui accommodated me when I asked him to drive me down to the airstrip for a photo op. A good way to end our day.
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  • Day 56 Ends With a Hike to Root Glacier

    June 27, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After our flightseeing excursion, the Wrangell Mountain Air transport for clients dropped us off in Kennecott.

    The plan was to go hiking, but first we stopped to get a bite to eat. Initially, we were considering having lunch at the Kennecott Glacier Lodge, but a picnic table with a view encouraged us to grab some sandwiches from the Meatza Wagon and dine al fresco instead.

    The Root Glacier Trail, which starts from the far end of the road that runs through the mill town, is only two miles long ... each way. Easily doable. I think we knew we were making a mistake doing the hike, however ... almost from the get-go.

    For one thing, it was hot. The temperature gauge showed only 74F, but the brilliant sun was blazing hot. There was very little shade along the way ... no cooling breezes were getting through the brush on either side. And, as it turns out, when we stopped to leave our backpack in an empty food locker, we realized we were short on water.

    Nonetheless, we persevered, but we didn’t go all the way to the toe of Root Glacier as planned. Satisfied with seeing it from a distance, we walked just a short distance down the access spur, which is at mile 1.5 on the trail. At least we got some exercise along the way.

    When we got back into McCarthy, our first stop was at the Meatza Wagon for some ice cold drinks. Then we walked to the shuttle pick-up location near the NPS station. Just as we were about to board the 5:00p shuttle, the driver came up to say that he’d broken the key. Oh oh!

    Long story short, another van was called ... but that was 20 minutes away. No matter. We found a bench to sit on. Happy that what was flying in the air was just pollen and not mosquitoes (for a change), we made use of the public wi-fi while we waited.

    By the time we got back to the Cruiser, it was 6:30p. Too drained to do much more than crash, we sat out by the campfire for a while, enjoying a glass of wine and some snacks to wrap up our visit to the McCarthy/Kennecott area.

    Tomorrow we head back on the McCarthy Road. Where we will overnight before our next destination is TBD
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  • Jewels of the Wrangells

    June 27, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F

    When you want to see a place that is 13.2 million acres in size — bigger than Switzerland ... six times the size of Yellowstone National Park — you have to think outside the box. Especially if there are no roads you can drive around ... just wilderness in every direction.

    Thus, we decided to see Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve from the air. A great decision as it turns out. Our flightseeing with Wrangell Mountain Air definitely falls into the category of “amazing ... spectacular ... beyond breathtaking.” This park just begs to be seen from the air.

    WMA offers flight options ranging from 50 minutes to 120 minutes. We chose the latter and booked it with a discount thanks to an Alaska TourSaver coupon. This option took us all the way south to see St Elias and Mount Logan, as well as University Peak and Mount Churchill. We flew over amazing rivers of ice and the Bagley Icefield, which is the second largest non-polar icefield in North America ... over 125 miles long, 6 miles wide, and 3,000 feet thick. It was incredible.

    Words cannot describe our experience and what our eyes beheld. All I can say is that it was worth every single penny, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

    (There’s no way I can pick just a few photos out of the many I took during the flight. So, the ones here are just random selections.)
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  • Reflections of a Glacier

    June 27, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Stepping outside this morning and looking past the Cruiser at our campsite, the glacier visible from Base Camp was out in its full glory. The skies were blue ... plenty of sunshine. Just glorious.

    We just had to get a photo or two. We didn’t have to repeat yesterday’s hike, however, as we had a 10:00a appointment. So, we walked over to the site we’d hope to camp in when we first arrived. It was still empty ... which I couldn’t believe, but hey ... it worked out for our photo op.

    Spectacular ... that’s all I can say!
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  • Day 55 Ends With a Spudnik

    June 26, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    We hopped on the 5:00p shuttle from Kennecott back to McCarthy.

    Initially, our plan was to just go back to the Cruiser. Instead, we ended up taking a quick peek around the McCarthy Museum and then went to The Potato for dinner ... a restaurant that started out as a food truck.

    We arrived before the crowds descended for the live band that was performing. I don’t know if the entertainment was any good as we were long gone, but the food was very good.

    The Potato serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu is the same no matter which meal you are having there. They have specials ... it was pizza tonight.

    I ordered one of their specialties — the Spudniks ... described as “think biscuits and sausage gravy, but with fries instead of biscuits.” It was quite good ... though the portion was too big for me to consume on my own. I washed my food down with an Alaska-brewed blonde beer ... no idea what brand it was.

    Mui had the hummus wrap, which included hummus, cucumbers, tzatziki sauce, lettuce, tomato, onions, and feta cheese ... to which he added a lentil falafel and chorizo. He said it was excellent.

    A great way to end our day!
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  • DIY Exploring the Mill Town

    June 26, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    During it’s heyday, the Kennecott Mill Town had a population of 494 people (1920 census). All those people needed services ... places to live ... places to play (although this latter was accomplished in McCarthy, which was about 4.5 miles down the road).

    Back then, aside from the mill works, there was a train depot, a post office and a general store, a school, a dairy barn, bunkhouses and outhouses, a sawmill and a machine shop, a power plant, cottages, and the Silk Stocking Row ... which, as the name implies, was where the few who could afford silk stockings lived ... the higher echelon, if you will.

    Some of the structures from when Kennecott was a bustling mining town remain and have been restored by the National Park Service. Others, such as the saw mill, are a pile of rubble. Yet others, such as the hospital, are in dire need of restoration ... which may or may not happen before they succumb to the harsh elements of nature.

    Many of the restored buildings are open for visitors to peek into. Several of them contain exhibits about life in Kennecott back in the day. There is a DIY movie theater in what used to be the post office ... with a touch-screen TV from which visitors can choose to watch a number of videos. We opted to watch the movie about the Kennecott Mill.

    (The images shared are from our visits to Kennecott over a period of three days.)
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  • Kennecott Mill Town Tour

    June 26, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    The mill town and mines are an amazing relic from the 1900s. That the 14-story concentration mill, built on a steep, slippery hill, is even standing today is a testament to man’s ingenuity as it had to be stabilized by pulling it back with straps during the time it was in operation.

    Kennecott was founded after copper ore was found in the mountains against which the town sits. The prospectors who found the ore vein just wanted to make a buck — a million or so in this case — so they sold their stake to three families, including the Guggenheims and JP Morgans. They, together with Stephen Birch, a mining engineer, formed the Alaska Syndicate, which later became the Kennecott Copper Corp.

    The owners of the copper mine pulled up stakes in 1938 ... after the ore was played out. Then, a local man apparently started operating tours of the town and mill. This did not sit well with the owners of the mine, so they ordered the entire operation to be razed to the ground. Luckily, the contractor did little more than take away some of the machinery and defaulted on the rest of his contract.

    Kennecott is one of the private properties surrounded by the 13,000,000-acre Wrangell-St Elias National Park & Preserve. The National Park Service began buying up and restoring some of the buildings, including the concentration mill that is the jewel of the operation.

    Visitors can tour the mill town on their own. Many of the restored buildings are open to the public and have interesting exhibits. But, if one wants to enter the 14-story concentration mill, one must take a guided tour operated by St Elias Alpine Guides, the NPS concessionaire. So, that’s what we did today.

    Our two-hour tour included a walk through town and a hike up a hillside trail up to the top of the concentration mill. In places inside the building, there were no walls left ... leaving one with the odd sensation of looking out into thin air. The floors were rickety ... some at odd angles. There were steep ladders to negotiate as we made our way down 14 floors ... two of them were best navigated by going down backwards. No wonder one must be guided through the mill.

    There were about 30 people signed up for today’s 1:30p tour. We were broken into groups of 7-8 however ... down from the usual 15 due to pandemic precautions. Our guide Katie did a great job of not only explaining the mill operations, but also bringing alive the characters involved in the story of Kennecott.

    Here’s the gist of how it all worked.

    * The ore — an average of 1,200 tons per day — was mined out of five mines connected by tunnels, including the Bonanza and Jumbo mines, and brought down to the concentration mill by an aerial tramway system.

    * Since shipping of the ore was expensive, the material first went through a gravity concentration process to remove impurities such as limestone. This included a series of crushers and sorters that got finer the further down the process the ore traveled.

    * After the waste was removed, the concentrated ore was packed into burlap bags and stacked on open train cars, layered with salt to keep it from freezing. The trains then traveled across the valleys and mountains to Cordova where the bags of ore were put on ships bound for smelters in Tacoma.

    * For lower quality ore, ammonia leaching and flotation methods were used, thus getting the most out of everything that was mined.

    The mining operation — including the building of the mine and the railroad — cost over $100 million dollars. Was the operation profitable? Yes ... thanks to the by-product of silver that was separated out of the ore. According to Katie, about $100 million in copper was produced out of Kennecott ... and an equal amount of silver.
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  • Kennicott OR Kennecott?

    June 26, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Eagle eyes may have noticed in recent posts that I sometimes write Kennicott ... and I sometimes write Kennecott. Both are accurate, but the latter is due to a typo that was made some 120 years ago.

    What is the easiest way to know which spelling to use?

    Use the “i” word for natural features such as the glacier, river, and valley. They were named after an early Alaska explorer by the name of Robert Kennicott.

    Use the “e” word for the mining company that started it all, the mines, and the mill town. In other words, use it for the man-made features in the area. That said, the locals have started using the “i” word to refer to their community. I’m going to use the “e” word as that is still the officially recorded name.
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  • Lunch @ Meatza Wagon

    June 26, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Following our hike, we walked back to the footbridge, crossed over the Kennicott River, and took the free shuttle into McCarthy. At the mercantile, we switched over to the McC/Kennecott shuttle for the 4½-mile drive on the road that was originally the railroad bed that connected the mill town with Cordova, the port town from which the copper ore was shipped to smelters in Tacoma.

    As we still had time before our tour, we decided to have lunch first.

    There are essentially two places where one can get a bite of food in Kennecott — the Kennecott Glacier Lodge and a food truck called the Meatza Wagon. We opted for the latter.

    It was still raining steadily, but the Meatza Wagon has a small covered area with a couple of picnic tables. The food was very tasty — again, expensive considering all we ate were a couple of sandwiches ... but you are out in the boonies of Alaska after all.

    I ordered the signature dish on their menu — the meatball sub. Mui got the Copper River salmon BLT. Both were excellent ... both served with kettle chips. We took our time over lunch, chatting with an Australian family ... traveling around Alaska as part of a longer trip to explore the USA ... possible only because they are currently living in Malaysia since Australia has completely shut its borders during the pandemic.
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