• Jo Lowe
  • Jo Lowe

Let loose tour Chapter 2.

A 36-day adventure by Jo Read more
  • Trip start
    August 12, 2025

    Here I go again....

    August 12, 2025 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    After 3weeks at home, catching up with friends and life in general its time to get going again.
    This trip starts in Iceland..
    Mags kindly gave me a lift to the airport and I finally caught up with Ian in Chaplaincy..shattering his peace of 4months ...lovely to see him as well as George David and Phil ....Ian and I had a coffee and catch up in Hanger ...the staff canteen ,before I went through security. He and Phil then bumped into me and helped with identifying the right Gate for Icelandair.
    A good flight though bumpy at times. Initially I managed to sit in the wrong seat on the wrong row and so had the person in my intended seat
    My seat ....33F...I sat ....34 F...
    person in my intended seat (33F) should have been in 31F ..was funny 😂
    I've paid little attention to the details of this trip and id no idea how id get to my accommodation. However there's a super efficient bus service taking 50mins that connects with another bus service that drops at your hotel .
    The hostel was bright and cheerful..
    I was starving by now and although no sign of any shops, I was told there's a fish and chip wagon at the back .
    Going outside i realised people were camping at the hostel as well
    The food was excellent and best mushy peas ever !.
    Realised I needed to pay some attention to the details of my trip seeing as im now on it 😅 ...in doing so found an accommodation deficit of 2nights ....oops..but wasn't worried as thought id easily get something....
    However, the hostel were full and all the hotels were extortionate!....2nights £ 700 wasn't uncommon ....
    I ditched trying to find somewhere and booked a few day trips instead 😅 .
    The end of a long 1st day
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  • The Golden Circle

    August 13, 2025 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Literally booked this day trip last night about 8pm...but had received confirmation. The best thing bout this hostel is it is on the list of places the tours pick up from
    I'd heard lots of talk about the golden circle in Iceland but no idea what it entailed.
    I was 1st to be collected by the bus company
    Turned out to be a hugely interesting day and a crash course in Geology, Geography Volcanoes 🌋 and geothermal energy
    Iceland has 99% renewable energy from either geothermal or hydrotherapy
    The guide seemed remarkably calm about the volcanoes unpredictability...and joked about the fact tv presenters could not pronounce the name of the volcano that stopped all the airlines back in 2010
    Iceland grows its fruit and veg in greenhouses .The countryside has very few trees and those that are seen are imported, but don't do well in the volcanic soil apparently.
    The country does not have any dangerous wild animals, they do have flies that bite but no mosquitoes
    Our 1st stop a huge crater caused by lava..the ground all around is black and red gravel type substance.It was impressive
    A 2nd stop to Gulfoss waterfall..which was awesome...I preferred it to Niagara I think as I could get Much closer to the point where the water tips over the edge...It is more powerful than Niagara Falls according to the information ....I am so lucky to have now seen both !
    On the way to our next stop there was a chance to feed some Icelandic ponies..utterly gorgeous 😍 .
    We moved on to a Geothermal area where one of the geysers blows every 7mins
    Ultimately in watching it I saw it and it got me ,I was soaked!
    The water is boiling away before it blows so I was suprised it didn't seem hot when it hit me though we had been warned it can burn
    Our next stop was at a location where we were between the crack of 2 tectonic plates ,the American and the Eurasian which are parting at 2cm a year I think ,certainly 2cm ...ongoingly
    Its also the location of the 1st Iceland parliament .
    I got dropped off in the centre of Reykjavik and had a wander round to try to find the hotel I will be staying at with the cruise company....basically to make sure I had the right hotel and to see if they could accommodate me for 2extra nights ...no chance..full and the other hotels in striking distance were either full or wanted to charge £700+ for 2nights
    I had a lovely meal in a restaurant in the centre and then caught a taxi to the Lava show.It was really interesting....demonstration of lava flowing, showing how it hardens really quickly, became glass like and brittle on the surface but still glowing and flowing underneath...which lasts for a really long time..
    So much information today ...all fascinating
    At the end of the show I caught a taxi back to my accommodation as I had no idea where it was in relation to where I was and it was late ...
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  • Lava Cave ,Reykjavik centre and Perlan M

    August 14, 2025 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Another 11th hour booking for a Lava cave experience. Once again outside the hostel by 7.45am for the tour bus
    The lava cave is the only one in Iceland and was an incredible experience ....impossible to comprehend the lava having caused this vast cavity ...
    At one point the guide switched off the lights and it was absolutely pitch black, no chinks of light and the only sound drops of water.
    The guide asked for a volunteer to sing or scream ....noone obliged so I did ..and screamed so hard one American woman commented " my! Those are some lungs! 🫁 😅"
    There was no echo from my scream disappointingly
    As there's no echo but great acoustics that part of the cave is used for concerts sometimes
    The surface was very uneven and on the advice of the guide i took a walking pole but although it was a help occasionally it was also a hindrance
    Returned to Reykjavik centre and visited the main church ..beautiful on the outside and unbelievably plain on the inside
    The organist was playing the organ and I wasn't impressed with the tone of the organ ,though the piece was all on the flute pipes .
    I left and meandered down the street which is reportedly the most walked street in Reykjavik.
    As it was lunchtime I called in a restaurant and had a delicious lamb meal...and a brew but its so expensive that it cost £50.
    After lunch I continued to wander and discovered the most peculiar tourist attraction ..the Penis museum...not great straight after lunch ..but did I go in ???
    I think this place would be described as unnecessary by my mum or be in the category of " we don't want this ,do we? ..rhetorical statement.
    Il leave it to the reader to decide what i did .🤣
    Moving on I got a taxi to the Perlan Museum which was highly reccomended by the tour guides and taxi drivers
    This museum was excellent .From the outside it looks like the Trafford centre due to the dome
    Inside it has ,an ice tunnel, a volcanic explosion experience,where you appear to drop to the bottom of the volcano and are thrust out as it explodes ..its amazing
    and a northern lights experience in a planetarium which explained the science of the northern lights.
    There's an observation deck to go out and look over the whole of Reykjavik which was interesting and many informative displays about volcanoes animals and life in Iceland 🇮🇸
    Unfortunately I yet again had to get a taxi ,as it was late and I didn't know where i was or how to get back
    On my return to the hostel I nipped to the chippy wagon for few chips
    I got chatting with a lovely guy called John from Bradford. We had quite a bit in common, not least, a mum with Dementia, that he was coping with alone .He was camping at the hostel .
    An extremely good day with so much interesting information
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  • The South shore trip

    August 15, 2025 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Another early 7.45am start for the tour to the South shore.
    I couldn't be certain if this was a duplication of the golden circle but was reassured by the tour guide it was different
    Weather was rubbish whilst I'm.told there's a 38degree heatwave at home .
    During this trip we visited two epic waterfalls both of which I could get really close to .
    I got soaked and was so glad to have a good waterproof coat ,over trousers and sturdy shoes ..as without them Id have had to observe from a distance. With the first waterfall i got really close to the point where the water hits the ground and with the second I could go in the cave behind the waterfall. In both cases the power of the waterfall was immense and if the wind direction changed and the water blew in your direction you got soaked and it literally took your breath away .
    The church is at Vik ,the most southerly place in Iceland..The church is on a small hill and would be the evacuation centre if there was a local flash flood due to a nearby volcano eruption onto a glacier ,melting the snow and causing a flood. It is anticipated that the area of Vik would be wiped out in this case and ,it seems its a question of when ,not if ,it blows as its apparently overdue to do so !
    We moved on to Diamond beach, a black sand beach that has a dangerous reputation .It has sneak waves that are incredibly high, combined with a very forceful current resulting i deaths of those who don't take care The guide said in recent weeks a 9yr old had died at the beach ...whilst Im sure all tour guides say the same, I saw a young child wandering along the waters edge.. it was really concerning ...parents were nearby but not actually witb this child and why they went so close to the water on this dangerous beach defies logic
    There is a warning board ,to alert re the state of the beach
    The final stop was at the waterfall with a cave ..Going behind the waterfall was a fabulous experience
    As i had checked out of my hostel, i took my luggage on the tour and enlisted the help of the tour guide to drop me at the accommodation id found for 15th to 17th aug .It was literally the cheapest decent looking one I could find
    Once id checked into the hotel i went in search of food and discovered a local food hall where i ordered a Margharita pizza with mushroom. .....a mere £19 .!! It was delicious tho..its not that I chose an expensive item its jusr overall expensive..
    I walked back to my hotel and had an early night, but not before id watched a bit of tv
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  • Admin and rest day

    August 16, 2025 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Having done back to back full day tours that were so busy I'd not sorted the printed penguins book from my last trip or started recording this trip I decided to have an admin day and a rest to catch up with these and other life admin things.
    Being away its important to make the most of every day and every opportunity, but I' m also realising that a day here and there, just chilling is also ok..and not a waste of time
    Eventually in the early evening I walked down to a nearby restaurant for a meal
    Photos are collection of the past few days that I've not been able to include so far
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  • Simulator Sunday

    August 17, 2025 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    This morning I was due to do a helicopter flight with 2 landings at glacier and geysers ,but the weather wasn't suitable and the flight was cancelled.
    As I had to check out of my hotel and go to the one for the start of the Greenland cruise, I took a taxi to the Centre hotels plaza ,in the centre of Reykjavik.
    I checked in with the Greenland cruise tour guide at 2pm and got my room in this hotel
    I decided to walk to the Fly over Iceland Experience ,about 20mins,distance , which is a simulation Experience as though flying in a helicopter.( as an alternative to the real thing )
    The cinema has seats that you get strapped into and the Experience was amazingly realistic.- swooping over mountains into valleys close up to waterfalls .I wasn't allowed to take photos but to be honest with feet dangling in mid air and sudden changes in the images, I found myself gripping the seat .
    After this, I took a taxi to the Harper building ,which is the Concert venue in Reykjavik. It is a striking glass fronted building and equally striking on the inside.
    In here Id missed the opportunity for a tour and to here a classic music rehearsal, which had happened in the morning.
    However, I enjoyed the incredibly real volcano experience. ..which was another simulator
    I walked back to my hotel and was pleased to realise I'd got my bearings in Reykjavik centre. I also saw a guy dressed as a troll .There's definitely a lot of folklore tales surrounding Trolls and elves ,that people definitely believe in
    One tale is of machinery which stopped working,when building a road and wouldn't start again until a particular person who can intervene with the elves came to the rescue..This has happened more than once
    After a lovely meal in a restaurant near my hotel, where Id eaten few days earlier, I settled to sleep as we have to be ready to go ,at 4am. !
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  • A long transfer day with 4am start !

    August 18, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    An unexpected and unwelcome 4am ! Start.....to the cruise 🛳...A takeaway breakfast was provided in the hotel reception which i didn't have,,followed by a 5mins walk with luggage to the coach and a 50min bus journey to the airport .
    Reykjavik airport was heaving and incredibly busy for 5am ..
    Our flight to Greenland was 8.50am so the usual waiting before the flight was an opportunity to get acquainted with fellow travellers.
    The airline was Enter Air . On our arrival in Greenland we stood on the tarmac for ages waiting to go through border force ...there's only one office with 2 border force staff .
    Our transfer to the ship was an adventure as it was in a bus ,on an unmade road / track to the waters edge
    We were issued with life jackets and had been told to wear waterproof trousers as our transfer would be in a Zodiac dinghy
    This transfer was so much fun and a really exciting start to the cruise
    Once on board i met the two ladies Im sharing a room with
    Claire ,a History lecturer from Exeter University and Betsy ,a lady from Washington DC
    Our cabin is really spacious with a proper window and 3 beds no worries about bunk beds .I was honest immediately about saying I snore and asked them to let me know if it becomes a problem as I will move rooms .Id rather they felt they could say than not ,and it ruin their trip as its expensive expedition
    We then had lunch which was a beautiful buffet. I was starving as id refrained from eating to avoid travel sickness on the plane
    Over the course of the rest of the day, there were constant announcements for issuing equipment or safety briefings or general information briefing.
    Equipment issued included , drysuit ,life jacket and muck boots for going paddling a canoe . A yellow parka jacket
    In the cabin there is a life jacket and survival kit for each person
    All seems very thorough. Our cabin card also has an allocated locker in the ready room ,which is where you put on all the Equipment for outdoor activities and Zodiac trips .
    This was all interspersed with afternoon tea ,and dinner
    By 9pm everyone was shattered and ready for bed.
    Overnight we would be sailing out of the Ffjord into the sea an the weather was meant to be very rough
    Our room was warm and the boat was swaying . In fact the ship experienced winds of up to 50 knots. ( 60mph). However overall although the boat did rock noticeably , it did feel stable and I didn't feel unsafe .
    Unfortunately despite having a couple of seasickness tablets ( taken too late and I knew it really) i was sick 😫. An awkward experience being sick while sharing with 2 people you don't know! However the next morning they seemed unaware of my situation, which i was glad about
    A long transfer day ...but the sight of the ship and transfer on the zodiac was awesome
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  • Paddling a canoe in the Arctic

    August 19, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    After a really rocky night at sea ,we turned into another Ffjord this morning and calmer waters
    The wake up call came over the tannoy ! .at 7AM!! ..a bird call sound followed by information on the days weather forecast.
    We went for breakfast and after another tannoy announcement found out that the paddling a canoe experience I'd signed up for ,was going ahead.
    This involved going to the Ready room ,putting on a dry suit ,muck boots , and a life jacket.
    We stepped outside the ship ,into a Zodiac dinghy and went to a nearby area..We were able to land and walk to look at a Glacier ,which was hugely impressive. .....and significantly melted and receeded...more visible signs of Global warming.

    Then it was time to do the paddling experience, which I did with Claire from my cabin .
    I had been a little anxious bout this activity ,but was pleasantly surprised how relaxing it was once got into a rhythm
    We were out on the experience for 2hrs and on our return had to wriggle out of the dry robes ..In doing so I realised i was cold despite layers. A hot shower which was excellent helped to warm me up.
    We relaxed in our room until it was time for the daily recap in the ambassador lounge followed by the Captains a la carte dinner .
    By now we have become friendly with the people in the opposite room to ours,...so last night ,the 3of us from my room ,the 2 from opposite, 2 other ladies who not met before and a lady called Harriet who I'd chatted with in the airport, all sat together for dinner..We had a very enjoyable time .
    The two ladies from my room went off to bed soon after dinner.
    However,I stayed up chatting with Michelle from the room opposite ours and when she went to bed, I sat in the Ambassador lounge ,where presentations are done,on a sofa , watching the epic photos of Antarctica and listening to the music ...I stayed up till midnight...not sure why ..but it was relaxing and I was doing my Penguins app.
    A member of staff came in and didn't spot me so was startled to see me.
    The ladies I'm sharing with , were asleep when I arrived in the room so I quickly and quietly got into bed ..
    A really good day with new experiences and learning
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  • Icebergs and puppies

    August 20, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We get a wake up call every morning over the tannoy ...a real hi -de -hi morning campers moment!! Its a bird call sound followed by the expedition leader giving weather info ...too much for 7am !!
    But this morning it was worth it as when we opened the curtains there was an Iceberg ....it was amazing
    Breakfast is 7am till 8am and we our preparing for our daily activities by 8.30am
    Its quite a big operation as all 164 passengers have to get waterproof jackets,pants and boots on plus a life jacket
    We transfer to the land in Zodiac dinghies ( Zodiacs )
    Today is exciting as we are going ashore to see a community and meet some Greenland husky dogs and puppies.
    An alternative was to go for a hike......no thanks!
    In the afternoon we had a trip out in the Zodiac dinghies round the Icebergs....it was epic ...up close and personal with the Icebergs
    The expedition crew are all experts in one aspect of the trip ,eg the bird life or the geography or Geology..There is a young guy from Greenland 🇬🇱 in the crew. Also a Chinese interpreter as there are quite a few Chinese people on board .
    Each of them is able to drive the Zodiac and depending on who takes you on ,does influence the level of information you get .
    It was simply thrilling to be so close to the Icebergs
    Each afternoon, afternoon tea is available, but we were out and missed it..
    The time flies between meals and there are 3 amazing meals each day plus afternoon tea .The food is so good ,it is hard to resist and yet there is no way of burning off calories 😫...I have no intention of using the gym on board 😅..or doing circuits of deck 5 which goes all the way round the ship.
    Each evening we have a Recap session and information about the plan for the following day ..which is always weather dependent and prone to change
    The recap session includes talks from the expedition crew on aspects of the day.
    After its over ,about 7.30pm.,we have dinner..( more food !!) which has become a la carte.
    My cabin mates Claire from the UK and Betsy from Washington DC...and myself have become friendly with the people in the opposite cabin plus 3 others and we are all sitting together for dinner
    My cabin mates tend to go to bed almost straight after dinner as do many others
    I found a quiet corner and sat doing my Penguins app to make most of wifi ..
    Its a lovely vibe on thr ship when everyone has gone to bed...really peaceful...and i stayed up watching footage of previous trips with music in the main lounge that presentations are done .the ambassador lounge
    Was careful not to disturb my cabin mates on returning to my room
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  • Sisimut

    August 21, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After the now customary tannoy wake up call ,breakfast and getting into water proofs we set out in the Zodiacs to visit the village community of Sisimut .we learned about some of the challenges of living in this part of the world....the need for a number of big freezers ,the times the ships cant bring supplies as the sea is too icy ...and helicopter has to drop food .It is always interesting to see which recognisable brands have made it to this part of the world ,Kellogs Frosties, Nescafe coffee and Haribo are available. There was also pick and mix.
    Guns and giant petrol cans are sold in the supermarket alongside clothes food and other items ..
    Polar bears are seen in the area ,but not so far on this trip.
    Health care isn't great ...there is a doctor and dentist who have been in the community a long time ,but for surgery or delivery of babies people have to get to Nuuk, as much as a month pre delivery.
    There is a hotel in Sisimut!

    The afternoon activity was a transfer to the shore for a hike
    I gave that a miss and had a long sleep in the afternoon instead.
    In the evening, after dinner ,we played, icebreaker bingo....asking questions of people to get all the answers to get a line or a full house ,eg have you ever been to Greenland before ? I didn't really enjoy it .
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  • Island and iceberg

    August 22, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    For the morning activate we disembarked the ship in the Zodiacs
    This is always a major operation involving calling passengers in groups to the Ready room where the yellow parka coats ,life jackets and Wellington boots are kept ....its hard work every time we disembark as all those items have to be worn and water proof over trousers .However its always worth the effort
    We went to see an island where storage areas had been created from years ago but may also have been used as graves ...I wasn't really interested but loved the Zodiac ride
    In the afternoon we went for a closer look at the Icebergs Thanks to our French Zodiac driver Fabrice ,who seems to bend the rules slightly, I managed to touch the iceberg .
    Fabrice drives the Zodiacs rather fast and close to the Icebergs ,skirting round them really close and really fast ..it
    was fun..He's the ornithologist on the cruise and is both very knowledgeable and funny with his presentations.His information is delivered in a very heavily French accent but perfect English
    In the evening as with every evening we have a Recap of the day ,a discussion about the following day ...and then free time ...
    I spent the evening upstairs in the Panorama lounge ...chatting with others on the cruise .
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  • Visiting the Community of Ummannaq

    August 23, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Today we are visiting the community of Ummannaq. We had the usual tannoy wake up call ,breakfast and transfer on the Zodiacs which is always fun .
    In visiting the community we were able to experience a lady singing traditional songs and playing a drum. We were able to see in the museum and church ,giving an insight into the life in this area.
    I met a young family in the supermarket and asked them if life was hard here ...they didn't think so .
    A gentleman in the museum had lived abroad for several years, has returned saying he preferred the freedom of the way of life in his community.
    The lady who sang the songs was pregnant and said she'd have to go to Nuuk ,the capital of Greenland, about a month before the baby is born...
    There is a hospital in the community but not possible to have surgery there it seems, sounded more like a health centre to me.
    Schooling is from age 6 to 15yrs. As we passed the school a lot of the children were waving out of the window at us
    In the afternoon it had been the intention to flight see in the on board helicopters ...but the weather was too foggy and the winds not favourable, so that was cancelled.
    I spent the time in the Panorama lounge,catching up on my penguins app and inevitably being so comfortable, I fell asleep. I think its the fresh air that is to blame for having so many power naps 😴 😅...because certainly not exherting myself in any way!...other than wrestling with the requirements of going out in the Zodiacs ..warm parka , waterproof overtrousers muck boots ,and a life jacket!🤪...every time we go out ...
    In the early evening we had a Recap of the day and information about tomorrow's plans
    Dinner followed and I am now part of a nice group that has evolved over the past few days ...the 2 ladies from my room ,2 opposite and 2 sisters from a room further along our corridor. We all sit together on a round table in the dining room and have a fun time..We have introduced a small competition for the photo of the day ,which we get someone from another table to judge.....all good fun..
    After dinner some of my group went to the Panorama lounge and were joined by a few more people...a couple from Surrey and a man and his Grandson .who are travelling together
    The chatting went on really late and I eventually returned to my room about 1am.
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  • Epic day,Greenland from sea and air

    August 24, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    An epic day where we woke to the most Icebergs in one place sp far and the most ice in the water.
    It was extremely exciting to get in the Zodiacs and go through the surface ice ,past Icebergs to see the glacier ..We had to be really careful going through the ice on the water ...
    Whilst out in the Zodiacs we spotted a rainbow over the ship and I stood in the Zodiac singing somewhere over the rainbow!😅
    Not sure our guide and 2 of the passengers appreciated it but the others are from the group im spending time with and they thought it was funny ..one even said I had a good voice.
    With the engine switched off the Zodiac, the silence was really special.
    Our driver Yvonne is a Geology specialist who was very knowledgeable
    Some of the passengers tried sea kayaking through it and it looked really difficult.
    This ship...the Ultramarine, has 2 helicopters on board and in the afternoon, the weather was finally good enough to go up in the air
    It was incredible to see the glacier from above...a vast expansion of ice but we are reminded its receding .
    In the evening we had the daily debrief and were encouraged to stay up to see the highly probable sunset ..as it was a clear evening...overall the weather has been dull ,cloudy ,drizzly with the odd exception.
    Sunset was amazing and I ended up staying up till just after midnight chatting with our group of ladies.
    The photos cannot do justice to the overall sight of the area.
    Its vast and each iceberg is 100% unique and different ..no 2 Icebergs are the same...resulting in taking an insane amount of photos 📸
    Its a huge privilege to be here
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  • Southbound..time to turn around

    August 25, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The weather has consistently affected our plans on the trip and the team have done extremely well to be flexible and adaptable
    Last night we were unable to stop in Illusiat which was disappointing as id read about it before coming away. It was due to the weather. Also,we were told today that getting out of the glacier area yesterday evening/overnight was very tricky involving going back on our journey by 10miles and then a further 10miles west before getting back on track this of course has cost time.
    Today was always going to be a day in transit as we are now on the return journey to the airport for a flight to Reykjavik..I cannot believe it has come round so fast .
    Throughout the day there were lectures on Geology( about the ice melting) and another Ornithology (the topic was how birds and mammals keep warm in freezing conditions )
    There was also a David Attenborough film and a talk on future trip options with the company. ...as if anyone needs persuading to go on another trip after this totally excellent experience
    The lectures were live streamed to the rooms and once I realised this I settled on my bed and watched from there .
    Inevitably I had an extra snooze
    I decided to miss lunch as we have had sooo much food ..and I wasn't hungry.
    Later I did have afternoon tea..and then dinner
    At the end of dinner. Lorence the waiter brought me a brew in a mug which hes done every evening since I asked just once ..
    He' d asked on that occasion if id like sugar but I said no thanks im sweet enough...this evening out of the blue, he brought a sign saying " im sweet enough "!😅
    It was so lovely he'd remembered
    Then the other waiter we've had wanted a photo too !🤦‍♀️
    After dinner there was a game organised in the ambassador lounge but I decided not to go
    Instead I came back to the room having briefly nipped to the Panorama lounge on level 7 where I saw the Captain at the bar 🍸 😅 😳 ...so no idea who's driving the ship...
    The ladies im sharing with went to sleep and I have been catching up on my Penguins app
    WiFi has been rubbish for a few days ,so may have to wait to upload the few days I have documented
    Photos are a few from today but a chance to add some others from previous days
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  • Last full day/ Eternity Fjord

    August 26, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Today is our final full day on the cruise
    It was great fun to find that ,by default, I was in the Zodiac with all the people id become friendly with
    Even better that we had Fabrice as our Zodiac driver ...he is French and drives the Zodiacs rather fast ,goes closer to the Icebergs than most and returns to the ship in his words " in European time " rather than the actual expected time..so we all knew we were in for a fun time.
    We sped off round the Icebergs and spotted a Seal. Fabrice turned off the engine and v quietly used the paddle on board to get really close. We also got close to Kitiwi birds nesting on thr rocks.
    We passed in close proximity to a flat glacier and I said oh I could just sit on tht......Fabrice went really close and we did get the chance to sit on it ....though we were all sworn to secrecy...as it was a definite rule bend !
    I told him later he's a good sport and we all appreciated it..
    Eternity Fjord is stunning and the sun was shining ...a perfect last day..as overall the weather hasn't been great...
    The rest of the day was taken up with debriefing and preparing for disembarking tomorrow
    However during the afternoon, I went up to the bridge to see the work of the Captain and crew..it was a mind blowing range of computer screens...no ships wheel ! Just small dials ...I said it was like a PlayStation
    We had a group photo on the Helideck with all the passengers on the expedition
    After dinner, in the evening, there was a video slide show of photos covering the whole expedition..followed by an auction of key items from the cruise
    The evening sky was amazing
    I cannot believe how fast the time has gone .it has been an excellent experience
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  • Return to Reykjavik 😭

    August 27, 2025 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Yet another insanely early start..for disembarking the Ultramarine..
    6.am wake up call .6.30am breakfast and then the Border force staff came on board the ship to do Customs duties
    Once complete, we boarded the Zodiacs to be dropped off where we had been collected,at a waterfront location, near Kangerlussuaq airport,passing those who were waiting to go to the ship and onwards to Canada this time...no respite for the crew ,who have virtually zero time to turn the ship 🚢 around in readiness for the next lot of passengers.
    There is a hill with a rockface ,where the Zodiacs drop off and pick up passengers, which people have written their names on .It wasn't an option for us ,otherwise Id have done it
    In his farewell speech last night ,the hotel manager on the ship told us how much food and drink we had consumed between the 164 passengers as well as how much toilet roll.
    He gave me the sheet of information tho id not asked for it

    For us,a return to Reykjavik on Enter Air and to the Marriot hotel at Reykjavik airport
    At the Marriot I had been placed with the ladies im sharing with ...it was lovely to share for one last night, though cosy as thered been a camp bed placed at the bottom of twin beds..a cause of some amusing comments in our group
    We shared a meal in the restaurant at the hotel and said our goodbyes as we were all departing to different places in the world at different times in the morning .
    It has been an excellent experience where,yet again I've gleened information...this time about Geology and Ornithology,as well as Conservation ,volcanoes icebergs and glaciers ..
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  • Goodbye Iceland & Greenland. Hello Oslo.

    August 28, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Rumours at the hotel about the airport shuttle being full prompted me to arrange to go at 6.20am even though the airport was 5mins away ,it was badly placed for independent transport and I didn't have confidence a taxi would reliably turn up.
    So ,I was airside at Reykjavik airport for far longer than necessary..
    My flight to Oslo with Icelandair took about 3hrs and when I arrived I was 2hrs ahead of Reykjavik time but only 1hr ahead of UK time
    I wanted accommodation near the station in Oslo as I have a super early train to catch on 30th August. Two of my Greenland cruise friends suggested places to stay...and one of their suggestions was just right a basic private ensuite stay at an ok price in great location, near the station..not only that but the brand "City box" has property in Bergen and Helsinki ,places il be visiting so I've already booked Bergen and will look at Helsinki
    From the airport i got the express train to the centre of Oslo .The station ,like other cities I've visited has a plethora of supermarkets and other shops
    As I was knackered from the early start, I picked up Caesar salad at one of the shops
    I was struck by how quietly people go about their business in Oslo ..it was 4ish ,borderline rushour and a lot of people about
    Once in my room I had the food plus a smoothie and a cookie.
    Despite my best efforts to stay awake ,it was futile and I think I was asleep by about 8.30pm
    Oslo is a poignant stop as Fr John Chaloner, who was so much a part of my family life growing up ,had links with Oslo and it was the Bishop of Oslo who was instrumental in John becoming a Monsignor Unfortunately my time here is too short to source the Cathedral or Catholic church ⛪️ on this occasion
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  • Sightseeing Oslo

    August 29, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Wandering into Oslo i came across the harbour and jumped on a tour ,which was enjoyable
    I noticed that there were people swimming in the harbour as well as floating sauna and changing room
    I went into thr Central station to check out the procedures anf location of my train to Bergen
    Calling in at the Opera house ,I caught the tail end of a piano recital in the Foyer. Afterwards I.asked for a photo sitting at the piano.
    In the evening there was a performance of Tosca .My.dad loved opera mum didn't so.they never went to see it...I decided to do so..Despite the last min booking, I got a seat 5rows from the front...
    Then it happened....the actors came out in jeans and t shirts..I knew what was coming...a modern twist on a classic!🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️!
    I wasn't wrong...there was a man dressed as a female waitress who did cartwheels for no good reason ,2 men who were dwarfs in school uniform including shorts....and the ultimate a woman spray painted head to toe in silver paint...except when she lay at the front of the stage with bsck to the audience it was obvious they'd missed spraying her natal cleft !😀🤣
    She lay like tht for at least 15mins ....her foot was shaking...?? Cold 😄or nervous or both
    The dwarfs made some sort of spider web across the stage with masking tape, which one male character then ripped down made into a whip and thrashed the spray paint woman several times 😳...whn she got up she had a bald patch on her hip!
    There was a sort of school choir in same uniform as the dwarfs as well as other people in ordinary clothes singing
    At the end one boy did a solo and appeared to sit at the side of the stage and lit a cigarette
    It was a bizarre experience..that got a standing ovation 👏 😳 🤣
    I joined in when the orchestra was acknowledged as they were excellent.
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  • Oslo to Bergen

    August 30, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A 5am start.....to ensure I caught the 6.20am train in Oslo to Bergen. This is a 7hr train journey across Norway ,but apparently very scenic .
    I bought a banana and a brew at the station before finding the right platform. It was a busy train and most people seemed to have luggage 🧳
    The journey was interesting and scenic though did have a snooze
    On arrival in Bergen, my hotel was really conveniently located in relation to the station which I was glad about.
    However it turned out to be less convenient for the main areas of the centre of Bergen.
    I wanted the tourist information centre..apparently a mere 15min walk ....but i was knackered and it felt like a long way .My purpose..was to book a trip to Flam for tomorrow via boat going out and train return...
    I did manage to do this and then had scampi and chips from the street market.where it was possible to eat in the tent onsite or take away.
    Afterwards,I trudged round the streets to look at the fabulous colourful houses and shops and a couple of Churches before heading back to my accommodation,where i promptly crashed out for about 4hrs ..Waking at 9pm ,I went in search of a brew and a snack...no tea available or milk so my Yorkshire teabags would be useless ...decided on a Cappuccino...which wasn't great without sugar and there wasnt a Kit kat for snack !
    My room looks out to the houses on the hill and its so pretty to see all the lights twinkling in them
    Spent some time catching up with people, including a lovely chat with Maura in Nz ...the joys of having people awake at all different times of the day ,due to differing time zones.
    Despite being knackered Bergen is very pretty and im glad i made the effort to come
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  • Day trip to Flam from Bergen

    August 31, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Before I came to Bergen I'd heard of the Flam railway and how it supposed to be beautiful surroundings a Unesco site
    Starting my day a very late 6 .45 am !..a lie in by recent days ! I got a taxi to the harbour for the 4hrs boat 🚢 journey on the Fjords to Flam
    An elderly American lady sat next to me and seemed to want to chat ,but I went to sleep 😴
    as my purpose was to get to Flam and not particularly about seeing the Fjord
    It was really windy on the outside deck so I stayed in
    The Fjord was lovely and vast with huge mountains ⛰️ all around, but didn't compare to the idyllic Eternity Fjord on our last day in Greenland which was truly breathtaking
    Arriving in Flam there was an enormous cruise ship ..and 1st impressions where that all the buildings were merely souvenir shops ,not really worth the effort Id made
    Undoubtedly the surroundings were beautiful. Id heard Flam church was worth looking at but saw it was 3.5km away and Im allergic to that kind of walking !
    As luck would have it there was a little train that did a 45min non stop tour ...so I quickly bought a ticket and had the front row seat
    I instantly regretted that decision as it started to rain and I was getting wet.
    However we trundled round the area noting the river ,the famous Flam railway and onwards to the original Flam centre where I did see the church built in the 1600's...it was gorgeous and overlooking the mountains and the river
    The school teaches children from 5 to 13 ,after which they have to go to a town 60km.away from their family to complete education
    Returning to the waterside we passed several people who clearly wished they'd taken the little train too!🤣
    I had a brief look in the Flam Railway museum and the shops before going for a meal ,salmon and veg followed by ice cream and a cup of tea ! ,before boarding the famous Flam Railway.
    The journey was scenic and stopped at a waterfall for 5mins so people could take photos plus another pause at the only passing place on the line
    The line had been hand carved out of the rock and at its highest elevation is 1:18 . There are several tunnels through the rock
    The journey lasted an hour and joined with the Oslo to Bergen line,I travelled on yesterday!
    So i had to get off and do a 2hr journey back to Bergen ,arriving at 9.15pm
    Returning straight to my room ,i booked accommodation for the next 2days as I am moving on to Tromso
    Flam is lovely,but there's not much there and both the railway and the boat trip on the Fjord was scenic ...but a lot of effort..for little gain .in my opinion..or maybe I've just been spoilt by Greenland 🇬🇱 🤔
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  • Transfer to Tromso

    September 1, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    This morning in Bergen, Id intended to do the hop on hop off bus ,but looking at the itinerary realised id covered the things I'd want to view simply by walking around. Id also considered going up on the funicular railway to see the views over Bergen, but it was cloudy and raining and I got an email to say I could have my room till 2pm so I had a long lie in and kept looking at the gorgeous houses on the hillside
    At midday i made a move ,checking out of the hotel and getting the tram to the airport
    Its a lovely quiet airport and i wad through security really quickly
    I noticed there was an earlier flight to Tromso and asked the flight dispatcher if I could swap. She looked ,but it wasn't possible.
    As id not eaten or drunk anything so far today i sorted that and waited for the 5.15pm.flight.
    Coming into Tromso it was noticeably mountainous ,which I wasn't expecting. Its quite far north in Norway and I was further suprised that there were so many blocks of flats...
    Tromso I've discovered is a number of islands and is much more extensive than id thought.
    No sign of a bus to the centre so I got a taxi .As it was 7.45pm when I arrived I've just been chilling in my room
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  • Disappointing Tromso

    September 2, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It rapidly became apparent that Tromso was a real mistake...its deserted!
    I think I've definitely arrived at the wrong time of year
    It is known as the gateway to the Artic. It's where the Hurtigruten and other ships pull in on cruises.
    Snow bound experiences are possible as is seeing whales and the Northern lights. . .but I saw None of it ! Instead I got something on my phone that told me the Northern lights might be seen in Manchester tonight!...which didn't help ! 🤬
    I had a lazy morning and then ventured out to see the Artic Cathedral and go up in the Cablecar 🚡 ... More disappointment, they were on another of the islands that makes up Tromso...fed up....got a taxi and arrived at the Cable car which is in the middle of a lot of houses 🏘
    The view at the top was actually worth the effort...and an extensive area at the top for those inclined to walk around
    A viewpoint is being built as well
    I enjoyed a cup of tea in the Cafe at the top, before coming down and walking to the Artic Cathedral, arriving 10mins before it shut.
    I then meandered the 45min walk back to my accommodation via the 7.11shop for food .
    As the hotel offers free cups of tea, I spent the evening in the reception area ,drinking lots of brews . Not the most amazing day but enjoyable after all
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  • Another day in Tromso ...unfortunately!

    September 3, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Given that Id seen the best that Tromso had to offer yesterday, I had a very lazy start to my day .
    I eventually emerged to go to find a Church that is the most Northern C of E church in Europe if I have my facts right.
    Other thrilling options included a Troll museum which I decided to give a miss
    Decent places to eat are conspicuous by their absence, so Macdonalds to the rescue followed by a brew in reception at the hotel and a taxi to the airport
    The airport was sooo dead ,that i was the only person in security!🤣🤣..so no waiting or jostling for trays.
    Onwards tonight to Honningsvag to the Northern most tip of Europe, c
    Gosh, people here are soo tall the air hostess head genuinely almost touches the ceiling inside the plane 😳
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  • Honnisvag Adventure

    September 4, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Arriving at Honningsvag last night was quite an adventure
    A propeller plane as thin as a pencil, with no allocated seats and multiple stops at different destinations ,basically the post /milk plane. Despite it setting off from Tromso at 9.15pm, it was full
    There were 4seats that faced each other and seats all the way across the back like a minibus!
    It was such a small plane ,it was possible to see in the cockpit. There was only one air hostess
    We bounced on the clouds with turbulence and nearly had to abandon landing at the 1st stop, Hammerfest because of the wind
    I was sitting an English guy who regularly does the trip ,and said this was all quite normal
    On arrival,Honningsvag airport was sooo small, virtually a portacabin..
    Thankfully my hotel did collect me ,as it was 11pm.,pitch black and no obvious place to bunk down if my lift didn't arrive
    The morning Arrived and I was suprised to see so many people at breakfast.
    Breakfast was really lovely but no English breakfast tea!
    I had the challenge of getting to the town centre with no transport...suggestions that I walk, worried me in terms of getting lost or being late to meet the day trip to Nordkapp that I 'd come for and had once chance of completing
    Fortunately, a guy in reception who used to work at the hotel offered to take me ..this evolved into a tour of the very small town
    However, when he decided to go slightly off road up a hill/ dirt track i did get bit concerned...All was well and he dropped me at the tourist information centre
    Nearby was a monument to a local dog ,folklore says he used to guide the drunk sailors back to the boat..In fact the dog was really brave and involved in world war 2 ...When he died 800 people attended a funeral with full military honours
    The tour to Nordkapp was in a minibus with a guy called Marcus,just me and a Spanish couple, so much nicer than a big coach trip
    The scenery was stunning! And the roads much better than the Uk
    We stopped at a viewpoint that is a recognised place for seeing the northern lights and onwards via a Sami house with Reindeer
    We passed several wild Reindeer. I was suprised to see the antlers on young Reindeer are furry. I also saw a number of albino Reindeer
    Finally arrived at Nordkapp, the most northern tip of Europe. Beyond is just miles of ocean, all around, as far as the eye can see, reaching the North Pole 2000km later...its vast, raw ,peaceful despite the tourists and starkly beautiful
    My aim, to get a picture of myself with the Globe 🌎 monument without other people in it ...almost impossible as the German people did tend to hog the spot and were quite rude if anyone else tried to hv a turn....Several tries later I managed it....job done, i went to investigate the Wedding chapel and museum in the basement.
    I then meandered around the site taking pictures...Its certainly somewhere I could have spent longer and will return to ,especially when the midnight sun is present, in may to July...even so, it was beautiful surroundings today .
    The guide told me that when it is permanent darkness for 2 months there is a real issue with increasing drinking and mental health issues...He is from Finland so not used to it and says its hard to cope with .He also said the nearest hospital is 2.5hrs away and an elderly guy who had a stroke ,had to wait 2 days to go to hospital because the weather prevented him getting there
    Another issue he highlighted is the children of divorced parents having to fly between locations and sometimes the weather gets in the way. Snow can be 7metres deep
    The lady in the tourist information, who was Italian! from Rome, Said Honningsvag is not a standard kind of place . I can appreciate what she means
    The whole of Honningsvag is much more built up than id expected Its also really multi cultural, Finnish ,Spanish, Italian and Japanese people drawn for work...surprisingly
    The areas is dependent on fishing but also the cruise ships which apparently take over the place in high season with as many as 4000 people. Knowing that I was glad id arrived when I did
    On our return to Honningsvag the guide showed us some King crabs caught in the area
    Fortunately the tour guide took me back to my hotel and although he asked if I wanted to buy anything from the shops, I declined as Id seen a menu on the reception, for dinner. However, its end of season and they were not doing dinner .I'd no way of getting back to town centre,and delivery wasn't an option either, so fasting was the order of the day ,hopefully shedding some of the weight undoubtedly gained on the cruise 😳 . I could have asked for some toast i guess but fortunately wasn't particularly hungry.
    During the evening 3 wild Reindeer were grazing outside my room
    A really enjoyable and interesting day out.
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  • Honningsvag to Helsinki

    September 5, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This morning there was an albino Reindeer grazing outside my room. I've seen a few here .
    My flight to Helsinki wasn't till 3pm and I was stuck at the hotel till it was time to leave ,as I had no transport and there isn't anything to do anyway.
    Having assumed that the hotel would transfer me to the airport it became apparent that it might not be possible....unreliable taxis and buses were not going to be the answer. The receptionist drove a quad bike,....that would have been an interesting journey, especially with my luggage. However, she rang her husband who lent her their car to take me the 5min journey to the airport 🛫
    She had been a bit terse with me saying most people have a car ,but I won her over,when I discovered she was actually from Tokyo and was able to chat about my Japan trip and show her the Geisha makeover pics .She had also had the experience
    The airport is beyond tiny ,its like the private airport dept at Manchester Airport..I was the only person there and there are 3 flights a day ...( about 10more people did eventually come)
    I had a 3hr wait in Tromso before the flight to Helsinki. At the check-in desk the dispatcher dropped it on me that I was in the seat next to the emergency door and was that ok ...fortunately a Finnish guy was in the seat next to me
    The plane was another tiny propeller plane. We got on at the back and the emergency door was at the front.!
    Helsinki airport is Ginormous! ,perceptions being magnified by being tired as it was 10.45pm.on arrival..Id left Honnisvag at 1pm.Fortunately Id booked a hotel at the airport and this brand ( strawberry hotels) does free tea and coffee for members....needless to say ,I signed up !On arrival, despite it being late,I had a brew and muffin in the reception before going to my room
    Following the numbers of the rooms to find mine ,I got to 524 ,so went to the next room and zapped the card on the door, it wouldn't work...I was cursing as it was really late and I was tired.I was about to return to reception to complain, when I realised, I was trying to get into the Wrong room 😳 😅
    My actual room turned out to be enormous, overlooking the car park and runway, although it was dense fog .It also, and not for the 1st time, turned out to be the disabled room with all appropriate handles and emergency cord and ,an interconnecting door, so my non existent and unnecessary carer could assist!..joking apart its good to know that hotels are being more thoughtful for disabled people
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