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Kate BoydKate Boyd
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traveled in 8 countries Read more England, United Kingdom
  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 24

    Au revoir, à bientôt

    May 30, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Packed up for the final time and left our tranquil spot by the Chèr river. Decided to use the péage motorways for the last push north, which was smooth, quiet and fast. Still a little twinge of anxiety as we rolled up to every toll booth wondering if the dash box would work, but it didn't let us down.
    Our ferry not until 11pm so Ian had the idea of visiting Bayeux for the afternoon. Great shout. After a Breton galette for lunch we went to see the tapestry. It was astounding. Brings it home how tightly intertwined English and French history is.
    Then we walked over to the museum of the battle of Normandy. Excellent stuff, with lots of poignant exhibits and a movie that explained the almost inexplicable way the advance moved inland. Almost marred by a noisy American but we are used to that.
    Then we drove to the plage at Ouistreham. Probably a mistake as it was obvious we were in for a rough crossing. The wind was so strong half the beach was blown onto the road. Made a sandwich with our last pain traditionnel and then moved to the ferry terminal. Lovely staff , who manage to make security checks inside the van seem like a social event.
    Crossing as expected. Another group of rather more rowdy French schoolkids doing the makarena and congas round the bar at midnight before they were all rounded up and dispatched to bed by pretty hands-off set teachers who were enjoying the bar and oblivious to the mayhem . We watched with a last glass of Bordeaux
    Great trip, but looking forward to seeing everyone, and hugs.
    À bientôt la belle France.    Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 23

    La Loire à velo

    May 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We are camped less than a mile from Chenonceaux , a really big tourist draw , but we have resisted the temptation all week. Guidebooks say you can't see the chateau from the road. All along the river canoes and boats for rent at high prices so people can float down the river under the arches of the chateau as it spans the river Cher. We did think about finishing our trip with that, but sacked that idea off for a last bike ride. The Loire is criss crossed with lovely biking routes, often with no cars, between the rivers and forests and villages. We did a super long ride today, combining several of the routes, and had a grand last picnic, thanks to the local boulangerie. Gteat to see so many cyclists out, all wishing us a cheery bonjour. And then our route took us right past Chenonceaux chateau anyway!Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 22

    Back to the lovely Loire

    May 28, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Picnic made. Off on the bikes again. Amboise is on the banks of the Loire so we left the Cher behind and headed there for the Sunday market. Seems everyone in the district turned out for this one. It was huge and packed. The air heavy with roasting chickens again. Veg, meat, fish, clothes, and you could even buy your mattress at this one, although I predict a challenge to get it home through the crowds.
    Then we headed for the Chateau Royal d'Amboise, perched high above the town on a rocky outcrop. Packed with history, beautifully restored and stunning gardens where we ate lunch.
    Rerkable not least for a helix shaped cavalry ramp inside the chateau tower so the horses could gallop up to the terraces from the town below. A bit like the ramps into a multistorey car park- maybe where the idea came from....
    We pedalled home along a very good cycleway through forests and back alongside the Cher.
    Another lovely day between two lovely rivers.    Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 21

    Good year for the roses

    May 27, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Up and away on the bikes to a village about 10 miles away. Chédigny. We had spotted they were having an annual rose festival. And what an event. People marching about with 6 ft roses on their shoulders, masses of blooms everywhere. We cycled in on a backroad and saw no one. Then everyone in the whole of the Loire was there buying huge roses. The village was lovely. We had a picnic and explored some of the gardens. There was music and food and art and good humour . Back to base for a BBQ and watched hot air balloons drifting over Chenonceaux .
    Lovely evening to watch the river in the sunset.    Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 20

    Back to the Cher

    May 26, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    A short hop this morning , with a quick shop and arrived at a site next to Chenonceau. Everyone here would be visiting the chateau, but we have both seen it. We have other destinations on our list. We landed a prime pitch spot next to the river by chance. Quick lunch and then off along a cycle path to Montrichard. A village ( one of the plus belle...) with a Fort dating to 1014. Was closed today but the village was lovely. Nice cycle back, dinner outside watching returning canoeists go upstream.
    And watching the sun set over the weeping willows.    Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 19

    Headwinds to Montresor

    May 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Set off today on the bikes to visit a chateau about 3 miles away but, just to make it interesting, Ian added in a 20 mile extra loop. The first half was like riding through the prairies of the mid West into the teeth of a strong headwind, so it quite pooped us. After a coffee stop we finally got a tail wind and got to our destination. Interesting visit, not least for the urn that contains a human heart! There was a sizeable display of taxidermy, too. The Chateau at Montresor dates back to 1050 but was restored by a Polish chap in the 1800s. He brought water to the village and built schools and a hospital so everybody loved him and all the streets in the (one of the most beautiful in France) village are called after him.
    Back to the campsite to find some sort of school triathlon going on round and in the lake. Wonder if they know about those big pike.....    Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 18

    Lovely Loches

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Up early to ride to Loches. The market was on this morning, and we know from experience these markets pack up and go without trace on the strike of 12. We had a great ride through rolling farmland and forests. Arrived in plenty of time and had a mosey round the market before climbing the medieval streets to the fortress again well restored with loads of information in French and English.there was a statue of a unicorn in the gardens. Apparently they were popular in the 1400s as it was thought they could tell a virgin from her scent.... The ticket got us entry to the Royal lodgings too and that was on a fantastic site high above the town with splendid views . We had promised ourselves a treat so menu du jour it was, sitting watching the market stalls pack up . Then, pedalled back through the sunny back lanes and a nice rest by the van. Great dayRead more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 17

    The long straight road north

    May 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Another long drive today. Some of the straightest roads we have ever driven. Miles and miles and miles of them. We figured they must be Roman. They didn't waste time on bends. Easy driving, little traffic.
    Several hundred K later, we are back near the Loire, and pitched in a nice site by a lake. When we walked around it, we could see massive pike coming up to the surface and writhing about, maybe fighting. There is a beach on the lake but not sure we want to share our toes with hungry pike. Back to some history tomorrow. Difficult to avoid the chateaux round these parts!
    Cherries falling from the trees on the pitches here might keep us awake tonight bouncing off the roof...    Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 16

    Another day another river

    May 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We left the Lot behind us this morning and started the journey north. We crossed the Dordogne along the way, and are now settled in for the evening by the Dronne. The nearest town to the campsite is Brantome, famous for its massive Benedictine abbey. The bell tower dates beck to the 11th century. The town sits on an island in the river with bridges and weeping willows all around. Very quiet- French monday syndrome. We walked back to the campsite just ahead of a thunderstorm. A few too many UK number plates here for our liking so we will move on tomorrow and try and get off the beaten track a bit.Read more

  • TravelerReturn to France 2023
    Day 15

    Imp on the bridge

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Set off in the rain headed for Cahors. Another medieval / gallo/ Roman town. It was the old capital of Quercy.
    We pitched up, had lunch , and then cycled into town as the rain stopped.
    Picked up a walking map from the tourist office and a bird promptly did a big shit on it. Had to get another, much to amusement of tourist staff.... The big town draw is the Pont Valentré. Apparently the best preserved medieval bridge in Europe. Six gothic arches and three towers, built between 1308 and 1378. Stunning. Rumour has it the architect made a pact with the devil, selling his soul to guarantee finishing on time. Then he changed his mind and the devil made an imp climb up the middle tower every night and throw down a stone so it was never finished. The bridge was restored in 1800s and the then architect added a devil's imp to the middle tower in deference to the story.
    Spent the afternoon meandering the medieval streets and visiting the cathedral. Lots of pilgrims here, one walking in flip flops....    Read more

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