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  • Day 45

    A big day on the bike

    September 4, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day 4 was one of our longest days of cycling. Whilst no longer than a normal ride at home, the heat, the wind, the heavier bike and the hill all added to the challenge, made a little harder by being the 4th consecutive day cycling after none at all for 7 weeks.

    After the climb, we visited Carrières de Lumières, a light show projected on to the walls of an old, underground bauxite mine. I was more impressed by the light show at Amiens Cathedral. We then dod a short visit to Les Baux and finished the day at Arles.
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  • Day 43

    Pleasant times cycling in France.

    September 2, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Day 2 on the bike was to Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct built around 50AD, west of Avignon. It is a massive structure, built to supply water for the town of Nimes. It was always going to be a highlight of the trip.

    Day 3 was on the east side me of the Rhone. After a ride alongside the Rhone, the important first stop was the boulangerie at Barbentane gateaux were popular. From there, we headed to the Abbaye Saint-Michel de Frigolet for our lunch stop and on to Boulbon for a look around town and time for a crème glacée.

    This part of France is known for bushfires. From the boat, we saw 4 water bombers flying one behind the other to scoop water from the Rhone almost beside us.
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  • Day 42

    Avignon- the cycling begins

    September 1, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Avignon was once the home of the Catholic Church. It has the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) adjacent to the cathedral, Notre Dame des Doms d'Avignon. The entire city is a mix of original or restored buildings and some newer ones. It has the wall all around though the gates remain open and a few more access points cut through.

    The city lies adjacent to the River Rhone which we followed all the way down from Lyon. On the northern side of the city lies another and most recognizable landmark, the Pont d'Avignon, a bridge now only reaching 2/3 across the River.

    The day started with our cycling group collecting and adjusting our bikes, then setting off on a leisurely ride on mostly secluded roads through farmland. We passed through a number of villages before returning to Avignon. Most notable of these was Villeneuve Les Avignon, famous for its cake shop. It also has a cathedral Notre Dame du val de Benediction and the castle Fort Saint Andre, which was the home of the Cardinals.
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  • Day 40

    Lyon - Adieu

    August 30, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today is our last full day in Lyon, a bicycle awaits in Avignon for the next chapter.

    It has been a fascinating week. Lyon has both ancient and modern art on display for all to see and experience. It has hills, big hills, which means lots of steps rewarded with fabulous views. You can join the hustle and bustle of busy streets, busy shopping, busy eating, busy life or sit peacefully in a park or on a hilltop and feel tranquility amidst this busy city.

    Tomorrow, it's another train trip which means finding seats and somewhere for our luggage, then relax a while and watch the countryside pass by. Perhaps most of all, it means no more climbing these damned spiral stairs to our apartment that has been home for the last week.
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  • Day 40

    Lyon - can drive you canuts.

    August 30, 2019 in France ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The canuts were Lyonnais silk workers, often working on Jacquard looms. They were primarily found in the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood of Lyon in the 19th century. The Croix-Rousse area is a high point north of the city, between the Saone and Rhone rivers with some lovely views over Lyon, if you can manage the climb up a gazillion steps.

    We cheated, we caught the metro which in this case is actually a funicular railway- too steep in places to maintain traction so has cogs to stop the train plummeting down the track to an abrupt end.

    The main lure to this fascinating part of Lyon is another wall mural, one of many scattered across Lyon. In my opinion, this one takes the title as the best. A very large, very flat and near lifeless concrete wall of a building once sat prominently at a road junction, on display for all to see, it could not be missed. In the 1980s they saw this extremely bland wall as a canvas to display the fine art that this city possesses.

    Over the 30 years since, it has gone through a few evolutions to the awesome piece it is today. As you walk from the Metro, you see a group of buildings with a massive stairway in the middle, a scene very typical of this area. As you get closer, you know it is a mural but the few small, real windows start to do your head in, trying to figure out what is real and what is paint.
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  • Day 38

    To scoot or not to scoot?

    August 28, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Time to discuss the elephant in the room, or on the continent to be more accurate - Electric scooters. These are whizzing around all over Europe. Is it a good thing or not and why?

    Clearly, they are an easy and convenient way to travel short distances around town, more environment friendly than by car but less friendly than by public transport, cycling or walking.

    As was found with dockless shared bike schemes, cities are being flooded with dockless e-scooters and, people being idiots, they get left all over the place and bigger idiots consider it art to steal and vandalize them, often with public support through friendly publicity.

    But let's put aside the issues of share schemes that also relate to bicycles, let's focus on some issues specifically about scooters.

    The main problems I see with them are:

    1. They are too fast. They are not motor bikes. Motor scooters should have the motor capped at, I think, 15kph. If you want to go faster, get a motor bike, even if it's just one of those cute little ones.

    2. They are ridden mostly by joy riders and thrill seekers. They don't appreciate the importance of safety, the safety of themselves and, more importantly, the safety of everyone else. They don't have two-wheeled road sense - awareness and anticipation of what's going on around them.

    I saw a scooter rider ride through a red light into a cyclist in Copenhagen. "Sorry" he said but i doubt he meant it nor cared while the cyclist was left to deal with the damage to self and bike.
    I was almost wiped out by a scooter rider running a red light while I was walking across with the green. Cars had stopped but the scooter rider was looking to the other side. Not only did he run the red, he wasn't even watching where he was going nor looking to see what's coming. Idiot.

    Point 2 above is the product of being too fast and too readily available to those ill prepared. The role of electric scooters on roads and paths should be as a means to commute, more in harmony with leisure cyclists.

    My conclusions are that
    there is a place for them,
    Speed should be capped at about 15,
    Shared schemes should use docking stations, which is still not the ideal solution but necessary until someone can work out a way to solve the littering and vandalism problems, and
    They should be treated as per leisure/commute cycling.

    At the moment, they are a nuisance due to too many inconsiderate idiots using them. As is so often the case, the brainless few ruin good things for everyone else.
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  • Day 37

    Lyon - part two, Part Dieu

    August 27, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    No, Part Dieu does not mean part two. It is a part of Lyon, on the eastern side of the River Rhone. most famous to travellers for its railway station. Literally, it means For God. Time for us to explore this half of Lyon.

    Our main objective of the day is Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse - an indoor market (halls) established by Paul Bocuse. We arrived by electric bus, some sort of hybrid between a bus and a tram.

    The market has fresh fruit & veg, meat, fish, cheese, etc like most markets. What this has that is different to those at home are the range and shape of breads - very rare to see a rectangular loaf like ours, the cakes and pastries and, most importantly, the chocolates. It would be very easy not to fit through the door when you've finished here. I controlled myself very well, I don't want to sink the boat next week.

    As we headed down the street from Les Halles, we found a barber shop not too busy so this was to become the first time I have had my hair cut by someone with whom I don't share a common language. I can count at least to 10 in French so it shouldn't be too hard to get the message across regarding what number clippers to use, should it? Let's just say that I will save money on shampoo for the rest of the trip. The next day, while wandering through another part of town, we noticed several barber shops, all with more attractive barbers. It was almost worth another haircut, if only I had any hair left.

    As we travelled further east towards Part Dieu railway station, we reached a shopping centre more like Eastland at home and a supermarket more like Coles than the 7eleven look alike we've had to settle for lately. This Carrefour was more like Coles and Kmart combined.

    We finally reached the Part Dieu station to catch the Metro back. We be back here in a few days to catch our train to Avignon where a bicycle awaits.
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  • Day 36

    Lyon - expect the unexpected

    August 26, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I enjoy wandering around foreign cities just to see what's different from home. Even visiting a supermarket can be an adventure, finding things you have never heard of, not finding things you expected would be everywhere and labels in another language so you don't know what the heck it is.

    Some of the metro trains have no driver and some of the buses are trams with rubber wheels. Statues keep popping up anywhere and some buildings are not what they seem - the two walls of the building pictured here actually have no doors or windows, no ledges and no people, just some paint, except for my lovely wife being leered at by the Frenchman painted behind her.

    Lyon has numerous wall painting works of art scattered around the city. This is the first we have seen.
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  • Day 35

    Lyon - more just as expected

    August 25, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Exploring Fourviere - the part of Lyon on the western side of the River Saone, home to the Notre Dame de Fourviere Cathedral that dominates the Lyon skyline.

    Two funicular railway lines start side by side at the foot of the hill, one going to Notre Dame and the other to the Roman ruins. It was at the Roman Theatre I tried my best Friends, Romans Countrymen but struggled without any friends or Aussies an the Romans had come and gone.

    At the bottom of the hill is Lyon's other cathedral, the Cathedral de Lyon, aka Cathedrale de Saint Jean Baptiste.
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  • Day 34

    Lyon - just as expected

    August 24, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Once out of our apartment, Lyon is just as expected - boulangeries, patisseries, brasseries, (the position of the i is important) and cathedrals, including, of course, a Notre Dame.

    Lyon's Notre Dame de Fourviere dominates the western skyline, perched high on a hill rising steeply from the River Saone, steep enough for a funicular railway. It makes a fabulous place from which to gaze over the City.Read more

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