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Top End Treading
Top End Treading

Top End Treading

Our ambition is to circumnavigate Australia...one piece at a time. Read more🇦🇺Melrose Park
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  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Final goodbyes

    August 6, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Said goodbye to Walter and Silvia, they were staying an extra night in Timber Creek, and we were heading to Halls Creek.
    Silvia gave me their card, and a fan from the gift shop! I gave her a hug.
    We dropped into lake Argyle, and it was stunning, but very crowded so we left again! I tried picking some fruit from the Kapok tree, but just couldn't reach!
    We stopped overnight about 50km outside Kununurra. Just bought some Diesel but no food. We had left NT, and left all our veggies in the old folks box in Timber Creek.
    We took a quick trip down to the creek to see if any Freshies were around. No joy, but we must have carried 20 mozzie back into the car. We were swatting them out of the car for hours!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Timber Creek

    August 5, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Goodbyes said to Walter and Silvia again. They thought they may go down the Gibb River Rd today. We told them we were aiming for Timber Creek.
    During the night, I went to the loo, and on exiting, I saw a dog, looking very like a Dingo. It was about 3m away from me, and was just standing watching. I tried to scare it off, but instead it came closer. I gave a scream, and ran back to the caravan jumping through the door. My scream woke up our neighbour, whose torchlight I could see through the window...but I didn't wake up Ian!
    We stopped for lunch at the Victoria River Roadhouse, and I used up most of the salad veg for lunch. Walter and Silvias rig was also in the carpark!
    On to Timber Creek, and the scenery is changing rapidly.
    We arrived just before 3pm and it was a beautiful place Green and shady. We rushed to book our sunset cruise....and of course S&W who were also staying here, rushed off to do the same.
    It was a lovely cruise, with many salties and freshies to be seen .We fed Sea Eagles, and Kites and the sunset was magnificent    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Back to Katherine

    August 4, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We were on the road before 9.30. We started listening to another Tim Winton book, The Eyie, and I enjoyed spotting the increasing colours of flowers, trees, shrubs in bloom along the roadside.
    We stopped by the giant magnetic termite mounds to put some more petrol in the car, and then refuelled properly in Bachelor. That was a lovely looking town, tidy and green. The owner of the petrol station was renovating the cafe and it looked very impressive.
    Silvia sent me a text to say she was having coffee in Palm Springs...hours ahead of us! We phoned the Riverview Caravan Park in Katherine to book a powered site. Then we stopped for lunch at a 24hr road rest stop, Bridge Creek. Toilets, picnic tables, and wood at about a dozen fire pits. Someone was working very hard to get campers to stop there.
    At Katherine we were assisted to park which takes so much pressure off...then a sneaky trip to the bottle shop, to grab some wine for the next few days. We spent a little time with Silvia and Walter, who were also staying at the Riverview Caravan Park, but didn't divulge where we were planning to stop tomorrow.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Plunge pools and water holes

    August 3, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We had arranged to meet Silvia and Walter at Wangi cafe at 11am. Walter was very excited about the beauty of the falls and the large plunge pool. Kingfishers darted among the ever increasing number of swimmers...most with noodles under their arms. We walked to the lookout and around the top, completing the loop. Lunch was a Greek salad, then off to search for Walters falls
    Walter had been here 19 years ago, and was keen to visit a particular place from his memory...with cascading water and pools to relax in. He hoped the next falls was it....but there was no access to the water from here, so he was disappointed again.
    We got talking to a group of tipsy Australians. Trying to guess which country we were all from. They had been to Switzerland for lunch once...off the same ferry Ian and I had been on from the lakes in Italy so they had seen Switzerland. Walker was from Switzerland!
    Our last place was very close to Florence falls, called Buley Rockhole.
    We rounded a corner, and Eureka! Walter's memory came alive again. This was the place, and it topped every other falls by a mile! We spent a couple of hours just lazing in the pool.
    Silvia asked us back for tea. We had hamburgers with fried potatoes and salad. We both loved it!
    I have been bitten so badly by mosquitoes over the past two days, and cover myself up in heavy trousers, boots and jumpers at dusk. It was a good excuse to leave. We drove home by the orange glow of another magnificent sunset.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Litchfield National park

    August 2, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Silvia and Walter left Darwin about an hour and a half before us. Ian got talking to the permanent resident from behind us. He suggested we go to Wangi Falls as the sites were much larger for caravans. Google took us past Berry Springs, and then onto a dirt road...which was mostly a very good dirt road. It also meant that we arrived in Wangi fall first..but there were no caravan sites left. Rather than risk driving to Florence Falls and finding no sites there either, we took a spot in Litchfield Safari Park. It was a quaint large CP mostly empty, but green and lush. Ian christened the owner The Gnome. He was small with a big bushy beard. We parked had lunch, and set straight out for Florence falls, in case Silvia and Walter were waiting for us....and they were! They had blocked a large site opposite them with table and chairs. Oh dear! Perhaps a good thing though!
    We walked to the falls, and I had a swim. Then walked back to the falls to retrieve Ian's forgotten towel. An aboriginal family had decamped around the towel. We were lucky to get it back I think🙄.
    Back home, we lit a beautiful fire, and enjoyed one of the best night sky we have seen yet.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Twilight Cruise in Darwin Harbour

    August 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Silvia called over about 9.30am while we were still having breakfast. Walter came over half an hour later! We managed to have lunch without them though!
    We left for the harbour at 4pm and started to board our Schooner at 17 10. We were given 2 seats at the front and were just settling in, when we were asked if we would change seats as someone had already reserved them. No problems! As we were shown into our new seats - which seemed a better choice anyway, the captain offered us a complimentary wine. We asked for a glass of white whatever...and he came back with a bottle of lovely white wine...and thanked us for being so understanding. Sweet!
    We sat beside Jo and Bill from Ballerat and we had a great night, great craic, and seafood galore. Huge prawns, oysters, and smoked mackerel, for starters, followed by threadfin salmon.
    We had a really enjoyable night all round.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Late breakfast

    July 31, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Started the morning late, and we were just finishing coffee when Silvia arrived. Walter had taken their car to get the battery fixed. We unloaded our car and gave Silvia a lift to get a new sim card for her iPad. On the way we picked up Walter and went to the Casuarina Shopping Centre. Ian and Walter had coffee and I got a small shop in Coles. Then back to pick up Walter's car. Ian got a new gas cylinder, lunch, and then off with our 'buddies ' to Berry Creek. It was a fantastic place and we all had a lovely afternoon. We finished the evening off at Humpty Doo pub. We sat beside a guy with this battered hat, and weathered face. Turns out he lived near Walter and Silvia on the sunshine coast. His wife was lecturing in Veterinary at the Charles Darwin, and he ran a stables for race horses. Interesting man.
    Pizza for dinner, and planning where to stay in Lichfield when Silvia asked if she could come over. Ian wanted to book a twilight cruise, for tomorrow night, and Silvia wanted to know how to write her journal the same as I do.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Darwin Casino

    July 30, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Brian from Ian's bowls club and his wife Kay came for coffee this morning. I woke early, again, worrying about getting all the previous nights dishes done! How silly, and Ian reassured me.
    Silvia came over around 1pm, closely followed by Walter. He has been having some fridge problems, so has been investigating how to fix it.
    He would like to sit somewhere cool, and have an icecream. Brian and Kay had talked of going to the Casino for lunch, as the view from the balcony was lovely....so that is where we headed. Walter was feeling much better, and his voice was back to normal again. I returned Kay's hat which she had left behind, because we bumped into Brian while we were there (funnily enough). The view was magnificent, and we stayed and watched the sunset.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    BBQ night

    July 29, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today I read. I started off with Womans own magazine, and then the Biography of Andrew Cameron: A Nurse on the Edge of the Desert. Both belong to Silvia and I want to return them before we leave on Friday.
    Ian and I spent several hours swimming in the pool....which I always enjoy, especially when there are few, if any other people in there. It has given me a sore ear though, which only goes to deaden the pain from the mossie bites, and sand flies!
    We cooked a BBQ tonight, with skewers, and snags. Silvia brought a salad, and custard tarts. Walter has pretty much lost his voice, but as he is now on antibiotics, this should soon be reversed. Conversation can be stilted at times...but the food was good! I am sure they see me as a nutcase..with my mossie spray on the go nonstop, and then I had a nosebleed! Only a very short one! But still embarrassing    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Shoe shopping

    July 28, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Up late last night, up late this morning. Ian has discovered a wardrobe dysfunction- in that he has only brought 1 pair of thongs....which are hurting him a little today. We headed into Darwin centre with the idea that we could combine the 'historical walk' with some shoe shopping! Not that many shops apparent, and they only sold thongs! So off we headed for the 'big' shopping Mall at Casuarina. I had a ball, but only in Big W and K Mart....Ian had a coffee and couldn't find any shoes. Off to Anaconda, and success!! Ian got his sandals. Then more success at BCF next door, with shelves for our Baby Red, and a screw for the Rafters in our Awning. It was late in the afternoon by this stage, so I read the magazine Silvia had lent me, and low and behold, around came Walter. He had a sore throat...possibly from the red wine! They asked us round after tea for a drink??? Walter really didn't seem well, and Silvia only wanted tea. I was eaten to all buggery by mossies and sand flies....despite my various sprays!Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Last night at Darwin Show

    July 27, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Domestic duties this morning, then over to the pool to cool off. Silvia and Walter joined us later, and we went to watch the fireworks at the show...there was a guard on the gate but we all just waved as we went in..no charge! The show was much larger than we expected, and the fireworks were very good. Ian asked Walter over for a glass of red, and then we discovered that the Tour de France had only 30km to go! Silvia was a great fan! We sat around the open caravan door, and watch it to the end.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1
    1

    Friday night Fish and Chips

    July 26, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We headed out to the Art and History Museum this morning. It was on the coast, and was a lovely way to spend some time. They had a lot of Information on Cyclone Tracey, which devastated the City back in the 70's. They also had a great display of old photographs. And a lot of samples of the insects/ reptiles/fish that will kill you up in the NT.
    Just as I was going to the pool, Silvia arrived. She had spent the last 2hours in there,waiting for me! Walter was asleep. We arranged to all go out to the Stokes Hill Warf for fish and chips.
    Ian had heard of a Calamari Schnitzel so That was what we all ordered...bar Silvia. Our main concern was that no one else seemed to be buying anything from this vendor. Next we spotted the ?owner, cook, going across to a very busy vendor opposite, with a plate looking for salad. What a laugh! However, the Schnitzel was excellent and for once, I left most of the chips. Back home the Show was still in full throttle.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Mindil Beach Sunset Market

    July 25, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We went to the Aircraft history museum this morning. They had a B51 and an F1 11 on display among many other aircraft. Ian and I both bought T Shirts. A swim to cool down this afternoon was high on the list...and apart from the growing number of young children coming into the pool as well....it was very enjoyable.
    We caught up with Silvia and Walter again. This evening we all caught the bus to the infamous Mindle Market. The bus was late! However, a passing bus driver (not ours), phoned to check when he was coming, then waited until he could tell us. How was that for service! The market was mostly cooked food, although I did manage to get Stuart a Crocodile necklace..and then the sunset!!
    The bus home just didn't appear! Everyone else seemed to be catching the bus on the opposite side of the road. A tipsy elderly aboriginal man said we should get on the bus to the intersection then catch another bus home. And that's what we did! It took us almost 2 hours to get home, but we also experienced a dramatic last trip on our bus, with several aboriginal people arguing very loudly at the back. The driver called security, and two officers boarded....one from NI! The driver was again a credit to his profession. His parting comments "Welcome to Darwin"
    The fair is going full swing, and next door also kept going full swing for a long late night. White noise to the rescue!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Darwin

    July 24, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We were later than usual getting to our Caravan park. When we arrived, we found we had booked a 12ft site, not great to fit an 18ft van! and because the show was on this weekend it was touch and go getting us somewhere else. We ended up in the 'Permanent' section...but for the same price. 9 nights for the price of 7. The guy next door has been here for 4 years, and he collects all the bottles, cans, and cartons. He reckons he makes about $50 a day. He collects them on his motorized esky with several carts behind. Like a little train!
    We struggled to get into this site...that alone took us 30 mins I'm sure! But we did it!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Aboriginal Rock Art

    July 23, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    This morning we went up to a very informative Information Centre at Bowali...unusually several km outside of town. They had a nice little cafe, and a great arts and crafts shop. Ian almost bought a shirt, and I almost bought a T shirt! I did buy an organic mossie spray, and also the ingredients to make my own: Detol, rubbing alcohol and baby oil...boy does it smell! This afternoon we went to see the rock art at Nanguluwur.......that was excellent, filled with bus tour people though. There was a large burn off over the hill, so the sky was filled with smoke. A little frightening, but interesting too. The Aboriginal people understand the importance of burning off the undergrowth, creating a healthy forest. Kakadu is completely cleared in this way, every two years. Went for a quick swim in the pool tonight. Very cold. Walter and Silvia joined us.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Jabiru

    July 22, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The landscape is changing as we travel through the Kakadu. Glimpses of water can be seen and flat stacks of pinkish stone line the roadside. We stayed at the Lodge CP, which must be the largest park I have ever seen. $30 for an unpowered site. We booked in for two days. At its centre is a great large pool, restaurant and bar.
    Once settled, we headed out to Cahill's Crossing. We timed it perfectly and arrived just before the tide changed. We counted at least 12 salt water Crocodiles waiting for the fish to swim over the Crossing. Magnificent beasts with the largest being at least 3 meters.
    We had happy hour with Walter and Silvia who were also camped near us again    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Exploring the Kakadu Ranges

    July 21, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We said goodbye to Walter and Silvia this morning. They were heading to Yellow Water sunset cruise, before Jabiru.
    We went 6km up the road and came across a beautiful plunge pool, complete with fish! A young couple and their 9 month old baby,were already there having a swim. The water looked crystal clear. Then off to a lookout another 25km away. It was a hot and sticky climb! The third place on our itinerary was 38km down a dirt road. We passed a caravan with a broken axle within 60metres from the start of this very very corrugated road, and we swung round and gave this road a pass! We also forgot to pack any lunch...so Ian ate raw bacon, and nuts, I had hummus and nuts!
    In the pub tonight we met Jill and partner from Mandurah. Both bowlers! I pigged out on the free bar snacks tonight...lovely spring rolls and samosas - definitely not on the diet list!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    11

    Mary River Road House

    July 20, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We stopped for lunch at Pine Crossing, which looked like a lively little place, heavily frequented by tourists, in vans like ours, and tourist buses. Also rowdy natives at night apparently. Then we entered Kakadu . I had bought a National Park pass online for $60 which covered both of us.
    We saw a lot of burnt undergrowth, and smoke in the distance which may well have contributed to what occurred later!. We were staying at the Mary River roadhouse, and were squeezed in between a Camper van, and two caravans. The boss/ owner had a massive rifle holder attached to his buggy, which he says he uses to shoot buffalo, wild dogs and boars! Then he feeds them to his dogs!
    We also met Walter and Silvia who sat with us over tea. They were heading in the same direction as us, so hopefully we meet again. After Walter and Silvia had departed, Ian and I spotted a flickering light in the distance... getting larger. It just looked like a fire growing and getting out of control! I eventually spoke to the boys sitting around the fire next door. Oh, the rising moon.....they said...and sure enough...from their view point this huge yellow sphere was rising into the sky!!! Doh!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Katherine Gorge

    July 19, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The Katherine show is on, but were yesterday, the town was just full of aborigines, today, the town seemed empty. We went to Katherine Gorge and climbed up to the lookout. A woman up there was pointing out a sunbathing Crocodile down below, but hard as I tried, I couldn't see anything. Ian saw it though. We had a picnic lunch on the lovely green lawn before heading off to Edith Falls. The Ghan provides lunch for its passengers here, all white table cloths and champagne glasses. It was a beautiful spot.
    I went for a swim in Edith Falls....very cold. Signs warning of crocs everywhere! Short swim, then out. My new bathers did the job well enough. A young girl lent me her noodle, which was nice. She was too frightened to get into the water further than her knees!
    We tried to extend our stay here. It was a nice CP and Ian was feeling tired...but no joy.
    Watched the Crows get beaten again...but how good to have TV reception!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Heading to Katherine

    July 18, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Less than 300km to travel today. We were on the road by 9.30. Ian spoke to the young German guy again, who was also camped at Daly Waters. They are heading back...he has now lost his phone!
    We stopped for lunch in a truck rest stop. The driver had hurt his head and had a bandage wound around his head from chin to the top of his head. He looked like one of those old sketches of people with toothaches. He was knocking all the red dirt off his wheels before getting on the weigh bridge. Then he was going to hospital!
    Unbeknown to us, Katherine's Show is on this weekend...so the place is buzzing. I managed to get a bathing costume, and Ian found the Information center. We took a walk down to the hot springs...looks just beautiful!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Daly Waters

    July 17, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Last but one to leave our overnight stop. The wind was behind us, and we headed to the iconic Daily Waters pub and CP. We have been listening to books along the way, and finished off 'The Boy Who Swallowed the Universe' today. Very wordy Australian book....different. Changing landscape again, with a lot more green apparent. More cows...similar to those we saw in WA. And getting warmer!
    Daly Waters pub is the most Australian of Australian pubs! $10 pp per night. No power or water , but toilets and hot showers! Some locals around, but mostly tourists like ourselves. We had a couple of beers and chatted away the rest of the afternoon. Put my shorts on!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Attack Creek

    July 16, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Leaving our lovely free camp this morning I noticed paw prints quite clearly, moving around the outside of our caravan...Dingos! Glad we didn't leave anything edible around. I had to trudge over the Bush with my foldable spade from Aldi this morning. The grass had frost on it, so it was nippy. Put my jacket, gloves and trusty blanket round my knees and waited for the sun to warm me up while I drank my coffee. On the road we stopped for diesel where they promote alien landings...we also spotted a young German guy, who had broken down on the side of the road yesterday. He was using LPG and his car preferred petrol! Also stopped at the Devils Marbles. Then lunch in the carpark at Tennant Creek Mining centre.
    We drove on to our free camp destination which was chocker's! And dirty! All the bins were full. Feral cats wandered around at night. But it had clean toilets (long drops).    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    On the road to Tennant Creek

    July 15, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We managed to manoeuvre our way out of the caravan Park quite easily in the end...but only because the guy opposite us also left this morning, so we drove through his site back onto the road! We stopped for fuel at Alleron, and took snaps of the giant Aboriginal statues around the road house. They were fantastic! We also bought some Aboriginal Art. We were heading to Barrow Creek WW11 site...once used as a stop over by the Americans on the way to Darwin. Great camp. No facilities but very picturesque. There was a full moon and we lit a fire. Life felt good!Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    3rd day in Alice Springs

    July 14, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    I needed to return my new underwear...I had lifted the wrong size! So we headed out to Simpson's Gap via Woolworths. I would meet Ian at the Information center on the next street. A street market was on and Alice was buzzing! Ian got talking to one of the women staffing the Info C. And next thing we are driving 130 odd km to Ormiston Gorge. We had lunch in the carpark with the flies, then started walking! That was a little bit of a misnomer as it seemed to be mainly climbing over rocks! It was slow going at times, but beautiful! It also became apparent that it would be dark by the time we finished this 7km hike, at the rate we were moving! We spotted some people joining our route from a different path, so we joined the Ghost Gum track, which climbed up to a view point at the top of the gorge. All very beautiful! It was 6pm by the time we returned to the CP. We then went to the Gillen Club for dinner. Pub Fare, but good.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    2nd day in Alice

    July 13, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We discovered this morning that a lot of our underwear was missing....presumably still hanging from the washing line in Roxby. My fault! I mean, who would want to steal them!! Anyway we managed to replace them in Woolworths of all places! Ian got bond jocks and socks, and I, new knickers and socks. I had really liked my thick warm cotton socks which I had bought in Tassie...all gone! This afternoon we went to the Desert Park and watched the flying bird display. Outstanding!
    Laura came round this evening for tea...it was so cold. We ended up huddled together in the caravan. Down to 2 degrees overnight! Brrrr    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Wintersun CP Alice Springs

    July 12, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Got the last spot in the place, thankfully we were directed into the tight little spot in the corner. Ian made friends with Ken and Pam who were travelling farmers from southern NSW. They were in their late 70's and were finding the task of putting their trailer tent up and down a struggle. I am very grateful for my caravan! We went into the town and Ian bought some postcards while I bought a pair of bather bottoms! Laura is coming for tea tomorrow night so will have to plan a hot easy meal...not too warm here!Read more

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