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Camino 2022

September 2022 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Ginny Read more
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  • TravelerCamino 2022
    11
    Day 3

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    So, I’m going to start with a tiny bit about yesterday. I walked from Orrison to Roncesvalles. It was wonderful, but hard! I got in line at the Roncesvalles municipal aubergue where I had reserved a bed. When I reached the front of the line, I proudly handed over my pilgrim passport and announced my name. I was told I didn’t have a reservation, so I got out my phone and showed the woman my confirmation, at which point she said, “this is for tomorrow night” (I know). We’ll, lucky for me, they still had beds. However, those who arrived without a reservation were relegated to the basement…. OK - fine. But as I kept descending endless staircases, things grew progressively damper and colder. I wound up on a bottom bunk in a room with probably 20 other people - and it was freezing. And, I had decided to dump my sleeping bag in favor of my much lighter sleeping bag liner. So, I slept in a rusty bunk in my long undies, pants, wool socks, and my down jacket….. It felt a little like I was on the set of a remake of one flew over the cuckoo’s nest….

    I actually slept great and headed to Zubiri this morning. Today was amazing! It was so cold this morning, but got way up into the 80s. It was sunny and so beautiful…… I can’t adequately describe this experience. I walked with so many different people and heard so many amazing stories….

    But the one that sticks is my conversation with a woman from CA who lost her son less than 5 months ago to a drug overdose. Those of you who know me well, know of my connections - both professional and very personal - to this issue. I listened with awe and admiration to this woman’s story. And was flooded with a profound feeling of gratitude for the opportunity to hear her story and reflect on my journey…..

    More to come.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    111
    Day 5

    9-12

    September 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I have made it to Estelle. I feel a little guilty (but only a little), as I have my own room and bathroom. I couldn’t find a bed in any of the aubergues (pilgrim hostels), but found this beautiful B & B. Of course it cost me 68 euros, as compared with the 14 I’ll be spending tomorrow.

    I have been walking 15 miles/ day for the last 3 days in some major heat.

    The people I’ve met have been amazing. They say you create a pilgrim family, and now I get that…. There’s Sherril, my main person - from southern CA. She is so incredibly funny - and so kind. We have laughed until my face hurt! There’s Miguel - originally from Portugal, now living in Germany. There’s Steven, the retired ER doctor from Austin - everyone’s favorite because we’ve all gotten a little sick. There’s Sheri and Bryan from Atlanta, and Tom and Peg from Chico, CA…….. And there are countless others that you just have brief encounters with. But ALL of the encounters are so meaningful. It’s such a personal journey for each person, and it seems that there’s just no place for small talk or surface-level anything. One of the coolest things is walking for hours alone, coming into a small town, and finding members of your “family” at a bar (cafe), as if they were waiting for you.

    As you might expect, I have found myself lost several times……. However, I now have a new app on my phone - Camino Ninja - it’s saving my feet. I’ve also managed to get reduced to one pair of pants - that’s it. I had some shorts and another pair of pants, but somehow I don’t anymore. And I have managed to terrify a group of students. I was on the path and decided to bushwhack through the woods to find the river I could hear - I really wanted to soak my feet. I got there (with difficulty - which I needed to add to my life while I was walking 15 miles carrying a heavy pack….). As I emerged from the dense woods onto the Camino, I stumbled out with branches stuck in my hair right into a group of pilgrims. I imagine they’re telling this story differently right now…..

    More to come….    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    Day 8

    9-15

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    There is something so wonderful about simplifying your life to a place where you walk, eat, and sleep. And while you walk and eat, you meet amazing people on amazing journeys.

    Yesterday I walked over 21 miles. It was wonderful and beautiful, but so long! And I got a late start. So, for my last few miles, I was completely alone (or so I thought…). I finally busted out my music, and danced and sang. Turned out, Casey caught up with me - I was very embarrassed, but he assured me that it was actually helpful to have some entertainment in the last grueling hour…. So, now I’ve been nicknamed the singing lady… In fact today I was singing along to one of my favorite Nanci Griffith songs, when a beautiful man (maybe around 40) appeared and told me that he’d rate my singing 10/10, to which I replied “I think I love you”. At which point another beautiful man passed by and said, “I’d give you a 12/10.” When I stopped in the next village, a few people asked if I was the singing lady.

    I keep losing things. When I finally got to my destination last night, my people were all at a table outside and actually cheered. There’s nothing better than being warmly welcomed after walking 20+ miles….. So I sat down and reviewed with my new friends how I was now down to one pair of underwear, Miguel spit out his drink. I think his biggest fear is coming around a bend to find me walking naked - and singing.

    The conversations are getting intense as we walk. And emotions are surfacing for everyone! It’s truly a gift to hear my fellow travelers’ stories…..

    Today was easier, although I did get my first major blister…… I walked a long time with John from Canada. He’s 75!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    Day 9

    9/16

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was a short day - only about 10 miles…. However, I think I’ve walk about 155 miles so far (it’s going too fast…….)

    I had decided to stay in a small town (Navarrete) because it marks the beginning of the Ignation Camino. Having worked at a Jesuit university for many years, I chose to stay at Posada Ignatius. Turns out that st. Ignatius actually lived in the building I’m staying in from 1517 to 1521. As Sophia took me to my room, she told me that the stairs we were walking on are the original steps - that Saint ignatius had walked on these very steps…… I thought that was so cool!

    I couldn’t get into my room for a bit, so I went in search of food. I then went into the town’s church - which was absolutely stunning.

    So, I’m just sitting in the very front of the beautiful church - meditating and praying and some local people begin to come in and sit in pews around me. They are fairly dressed up and MUCH cleaner than me, but I just continue to sit. Then, a lovely woman sits next to me and asks if I’m a “pelegrino” and I say si. I ask her, “is there going to be a mass?” And she says, Si. Masa”. I’m thinking - awesome, I’ll stay for mass. In a few minutes I’m surrounded by sweet smelling, very dressed up, local people…. Then, an older couple comes down the aisle and I realize I’m at a wedding - and I’m basically sitting with the family! I’m mortified, but I can’t just get up and walk out while the priest is saying mass. So, I just sit…. Until finally, the priest goes over to the couple and I leave as discretely as I can. And that was my afternoon…… The end.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    Day 14

    9-22

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    So there are 3 fairly distinct parts to the Camino - up and over the Pyrenees, and through the vineyards that make up the wine country up to Burgos; the meseta which is a plateau consisting of endless fields; and finally, Galicia, a verdant region that extends to the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that the first third of the Camino breaks the body, the second third breaks the mind, and the third third breaks the spirit. THEN - you can be transformed. Now, one may very reasonably ask, but why? I can’t answer that right now, as I am in Burgos, just having completed the breaking of my body. I have been so sick. While most of my fellow pilgrims achieved their broken body status via infected blisters, bruised ligaments, major knee issues and horrible shin splints, I just got sick. My new best friend Steve, a retired er doctor thinks I had a sinus infection and a urinary tract infection. I also wound up with a bacterial infection that made me very sick to my stomach. So, I have been sleeping a lot, walking little, and feeling quite sorry for myself. However, I am much improved, and after spending a rest day in Burgos, I’m ready to head out again tomorrow. I guess, to begin the process of breaking my mind. Again, a sane person might ask, “but why?” And again - I have no idea. All I can say is that despite all of this breaking, this continues to be an amazing experience. My new friends - and the configuration morphs daily - continue to keep me motivated.

    More to come…..    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    Day 19

    The Meseta

    September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Hi all. I haven’t really been as inspired to write in recent days…. Perhaps because I have hit the middle section of the Camino - the meseta - the third that “breaks your mind”. I know - sounds like a blast - I do know how to have a good time! But it is true - it’s a time when you are kind of stuck in your own head for hours on end. In my case, this is a scary place to hang out. But I am continuing to have an amazing experience. I have CERTAINLY found my people. I have been repeatedly told throughout my life that I “think too much”. We’ll, I’m certainly meeting my match out here. It’s just one massive group of seekers who love to think and ponder and dissect, and analyze…….

    For now - as I linger in my very busy head, I’ll continue to send short blurbs and pictures.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    3
    Day 24

    I’m back…

    October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I am finally past the meseta….. I did, in fact, lose my mind, but many who know me might say this is my “normal” state. I will also say though, that I had so much fun during that section. Part of losing one’s mind it turns out, is random hysteria. I was with the most fun group of people, and as each of us lost it, we would find ourselves laughing hysterically.

    I have also reached the point where I run into people I have met previously virtually every day. And each time that happens, it feels like you are reuniting with a loved one you haven’t seen in ages. For example, I just got to tonight’s albergue and saw 3 young girls from Korea who I had traveled with for days, and then lost for a week or so. We were so happy to see each other!

    I am also loving the pilgrim dinners. Especially on the meseta where there are very few stores and no restaurants, pilgrims gather for a community dinner. It’s such a treat after walking all day. Again, there is usually a lot of laughter and you literally meet people from around the world. Last night, we were discussing why we decided to do the Camino. And it finally came to me. I just said, “I have a lot to let go of.” And for the first time I knew that was it!

    More to come…….    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    Day 26

    Rabanal

    October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I’m in Rabanal (or just outside) currently luxuriating in my own apartment! It’s such an amazing treat. Real towels, my own room and bathroom, an amazing setting……

    Typically I’ve been staying in albergue - pilgrim hostels. They vary ALOT! Some (really, most) are quite comfortable and pretty fun. There’s usually bunk beds (when I get the top it’s a challenge), but people are accommodating and respectful. However, last night was a little different. I wound up in a VERY basic albergue in Astorga. Everything (rooms, toilets, showers…. was coed. OK - fine. Then I am shown to my room where there are 6 bunk beds, and it turns out I’m the only woman in the room. There are men everywhere, virtually all in their underwear (although one guy was in a towel) all talking loudly in a variety of languages that I don’t understand. None were inclined to don pants upon my arrival….. There were even 2 underwear-clad men doing push-ups and sit-ups in the middle of the floor. I’m not even kidding. Picture Animal House after walking 14 miles. But, I’m a good sport, so I just go for it - not to mention there were no rooms left in the entire town…. So I get ready to shower and realize that I’ve left my towel behind at the last albergue. I actually dried myself off with my dirty clothes. Yup - I guess I got a little clean. At bedtime, I pull out my trusty earplugs (they have been a lifesaver, and until last night had not let me down). Turned out they were useless in the frat house….

    So, I was tired today. I had a beautiful hike though - and I’ve treated myself to a night of luxury! I did part ways with my 3 new Korean children, as they are young and moving ahead. And I may not see Miguel again, as he too has gone ahead. He has been a great walking companion for the past few days! But, I reunited with Debbie, Carl, Hugh, and Tristy. This is just how it goes……    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    Day 28

    Cacabelos

    October 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    It’s been a strange few days. I’m heading into Galatia, and the mountains are beautiful! But the hiking has been arduous primarily the very steep, very rocky downhills.

    Two days ago, I passed an iconic Camino landmark - the Cruz de Ferro. It is an enormous cross where pilgrims lay down a rock to signify the letting go of whatever burdens they have carried that no longer serve them, and perhaps even hold them back or keep them from living their best lives. I was surprised at how emotional this experience was. Like many humans (I think), I have held onto fear and shame. I have carried a sense of unworthiness that has prevented me from valuing myself enough to simply be authentic. I have believed the voices in my head (and sometimes the voices of others) that have told me that I am actually not ok. As I consciously stood at this cross and made the decision (at least cognitively) to put those voices, the shame and the fear, down - I was overcome with emotion. But, almost every pilgrim standing at the cross was weeping - each doing the hard work of attempting to let go……

    SO - that was a tough day. And I also lost a few friends that day - one had gotten Covid and finally made the call to go home, and others either slowed down or sped up. But I did make new friends in my albergue last night - where, I am happy to report, I was in a bright, clean, all female room! I walked with Celeste today, which was lovely, but she continued on past the little village where I’ll stay tonight. So, this evening I’m alone. I even have my own room!!!!

    The one thing nobody tells you about is the level and extent of “FOMO” you experience on the Camino. I truly never even considered this (I am 66 years old for Gods sake). But it’s a constant balancing of, “oh - that sounds so fun - I should join them” with “my feet hurt so much - I should stop.” It’s non-stop loss, reuniting, more loss, acceptance…….. I guess like a condensed version of life.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2022
    1
    Day 32

    Portomarin

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I have been walking for over a month, and I’ve covered over 435 miles….. In fact, today we passed the 100 km marker - less than 100 kms to go. I think I’ll get to Santiago on 10/16, so only 6 more days of walking. It is all so surreal……

    You truly lose track of days, dates, day of the week, etc….. But a few days ago, I hit O Cebreiro, which I believe is the highest point on the Camino. It was a tough day - quite the climb. But so worth it. I truly felt like I was on the top of the world. The village is tiny, with old stone buildings lining the narrow streets. It was like being in a hobbit village. And earlier that day, I met 2 men from Australia. We chatted and realized that we knew some of the same people. When I arrived in O Cebreiro, I got a text from Steve - the retired ER doctor who had helped me out when I was sick - many weeks ago. And he was with Deepika, who I’d befriended a while back. They met up with me, and we had a wonderful dinner with a huge group! And now, we (me, Steve and Deepika) have rented apartments for the remainder of the walk. I am sitting now in our beautiful living room, having just done laundry in a real washing machine (I will never again take my washing machine for granted. I also showered and had a real towel to dry off, and I’m not sleeping in a bunk bed!

    It’s also lovely because both Steve and Deepika walk faster than me, so I am greeted every afternoon when I arrive, and I get to shower right away…..

    I have been walking with a variety of people. Yesterday, we had our first full day of rain (really can’t complain). I walked with Emily - it was actually quite beautiful. We are walking through beautiful forests and the views are astounding. Today was gorgeous. I walked with Sheila from Australia and Lydia from Croatia - both friends I made earlier on. There were more forests and farmland, and TONS more people. We left Sarria this morning, which is the last town one can leave from and still get a compostela in Santiago. It’s a certificate that pilgrims can get, but you have to walk a minimum of 100 kms. It was a little overwhelming to see so many people on the trail, but really, it is just different.

    I still want to pinch myself - I feel so fortunate to be doing this. Even the struggles and hard parts are so rewarding. I have learned so much. For example, in the US, we know so little about history. To walk through these towns and villages and see castles, museums, and relics from the Middle Ages (and before) is so profound. And what you learn about yourself is priceless. And the access to people from across the world - of every age, ethnicity, color, etc is amazing……    Read more

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