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  • Day 64

    Where The Livin'z Easy

    November 2, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    I quickly found better weather just south of Cupertino. Cupertino was gorgeous, but the further south I went, there were fewer clouds and it was much warmer at night. I continued to follow route 1 south with the ocean to my right and mountains to my left. I soon came to Big Sur state park. Unfortunately a recent fire had kept all the campgrounds in the park closed. Luckily there are a bunch of campgrounds along the way. I travel a few more miles south and come to Limekiln state park, which consists of about 15 maybe 20 sites. My site put me right next to a stream in the shade of a few redwoods and steep cliffs on either side. The steam flowed straight in to the ocean which was a few hundred feet away. On the way to a modestly sized yet beautiful beach I crossed under route 1, which was high overhead. The bridge was like a giant doorway between the camping area and the beach and ocean. The beach was walled in on both sides by step cliffs. it almost felt like I was in an auditorium and the sky and ocean was on stage.

    I arrived fairly early in the afternoon and still had an hour or so to bask in the sun as it set over the water. This was the first sunset on the west coast I've had that's felt warm while wearing shorts and a tee shirt. I got to put my feet in warm beach sand one more time this year, and it felt great!

    Pictures: California Central coast. The left hand wall at the Pacific ocean theater. A cool rock. A gorgeous sunset. More cool rocks.
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  • Day 57

    San Francisco

    October 26, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a night on the coast, I spent the next day exploring the rest of the national seashore. I rode out to the lighthouse and then headed back towards the mainland. I'd seen signs for hog island oysters and wanted to try some so I stopped in at a restaurant and ordered a few. For being so close to the source, the price was out of control. $18 for 6 oysters! I bit the bullet and ordered some. They were good but not worth the price. That was my budget for local food in that area, so it was back to the regular diet. During the day I got in touch with Aaron and planned on going to his place in San Francisco that night. I made my way towards the city but had extra time before Aaron was out of work so I took a look at the map and found a road called the "panoramic highway". I knew what I was doing for the afternoon!

    Route 1 was beautiful and without rain it was a blast to ride on. After finding the turn into the panoramic highway it immediately turned into switchbacks. At the crest of the road I was on, I saw the entrance to a park. I turned up that road which continued to ascend. The twists and turns seemed endless as the road narrowed. After a while I came to a parking lot and I could see the entire bay area. I somehow hit the perfect day for overlooking the city. No fog and a beautiful sunny day. I then headed for the Marin headlands and got some closer views of the golden gate bridge. I don't know how often you can catch a clear day on the bridge but every other time I've been in the city, the golden gate has been shrouded in thick fog, sometimes clearing for just a few minutes. I hung out and stared at the city. An unusual thing to do these days. I felt the ebb and flow of people showing up for a minute or two, snapping a few pictures, and promptly leaving. It wasn't very peaceful, and should have started charging money for the number of pictures I took of other people as they asked me to take their picture.

    After checking out the bridge it was time to head into San Francisco. I crossed the bridge and met Aaron at his apartment. We were able to sneak my motorcycle into his garage behind his car and his motorcycle. It was time to get used to tight spaces in cities again. It's always fun hanging out with Aaron. We had a couple of beers and then went out for some delicious deep dish a few blocks from his house. One of the things I really like about cities is convenience and proximity to restaurants, bars, and people. It can be tiring at times, but I usually enjoy a city when I have friends to hang out with. Thanks again Aaron for having me over! I can't wait to have you visit when I get to Colorado.

    The next day I headed for Oakland to see Lara and Jon. I crossed over the bay bridge and was introduced to California lane splitting. During rush hour there is always stopped traffic. I am usually at the mercy of the traffic jam, but I was now on two wheels which easily slice through traffic like a samurai sword through a watermelon. Not sure if that's a thing but you get the idea.

    It was great to see Jon and Lara again. Some recent transplants to the area, it was good to see friends doing what I plan to do very soon. We had great food, explored the farmers market on the weekend and hung out. It was a nice change of pace. Two more gracious and generous hosts. I look forward to hosting them as well when I find my next place to call home.

    After Oakland I made my way to Cupertino to visit David and Vanessa. I met them at one of their friends Halloween parties a few miles from their house. I arrived at the party not knowing anyone there, and easily gained entry. If you find a house with a party going on I've found that it's usually pretty easy to get in without knowing anyone there. Just an observation. I swear I'm not a creeper who crashes random parties. Soon David and Vanessa showed up as Waldo and a slutty pumpkin. The party had started.

    After the party Vanessa needed to make a shepherd's pie for a work pot luck the next day. We all chopped some veggies and hung out while Vanessa assembled the pie. After some great conversation I think I was able to keep them up past their bedtime. They both had work the next day so I rode back into San Fran to have lunch with Alison. We missed meeting up while I was in the city and I had time to go back for lunch. It's was good to see her even though it was just for lunch. After lunch I rode back to Cupertino but headed down the coast and over some mountains. Again riding on some great roads. I should mention that the weather in the bay area was mostly overcast with short rain storms, but Cupertino was the border of the rain I'd been trapped in for the last month. It was the light at the end of the tunnel.

    That night David and Vanessa and I went out for dinner. Another night out with friends. Something that I'd become accustomed to living in Boston for so many years, and really missed while on the road.

    Eventually it was time to keep going south. I really wanted to see Yosemite but for the second time on the trip I aborted the mission due to cold weather. Temperatures the park were consistently in the 20s at night. Time to go further south in search of better weather.

    Pictures: Road to the lighthouse on point Reyes. View of San Francisco from atop Mt. Tamalpais. Golden gate from Marin headlands. Steep motorcycle parking at Lara's and Jon's in Oakland. A view of the city from faction brewery. Delicious grilled cheese sandwiches there. Thanks Jon!
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  • Day 56

    Point Reyes National Seashore

    October 25, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Leaving Gualala, I head for Point Reyes National Seashore were there is some backcountry camping. It is supposed to rain all day so I make sure everything is buttoned up so things stay as dry as possible. I even close my pant zipper pockets, which if you leave open is similar to leaving a jacket pocket open while skiing, but much wetter.

    Route 1 is again a challenge. The wet roads I found were no more slippery, but debris in the road had increased. I keep a keen eye out for sticks and other obstacles. Eventually I come around a tight corner and there is an unavoidable wet stick in the road. The front tire hits the stick. The stick is very close to parallel with my front tire as I'm leaning into the turn. I then feel the front tire ride up and over the stick as centripetal force pulls me to the outside of my turn. Luckily the stick wasn't too big and my front wheel only jumped a half inch or so, but it was big enough to make my heart jump about the same amount. I continue on towards the seashore and the rain starts to clear. The forecast has the following day listed as rain free, and partly sunny, so I should be alright sleeping for the night in the relative dry. I soon come to the visitor center and my outer shell and gloves have started to dry off. At the visitor center I get a permit and ask about weather and animals in the area. They seem to have raccoon and skunk problems at the campsites, so lockers available are at each site. A definite plus to not have to worry about food storage at camp. After getting the lay of the land I ride to the trail head and pack an overnight backpack, cover the bike, read it a bedtime story, give it a kiss goodnight and start a short 2 mile hike to the campsite.

    The name of the campsite is "coast". Very clever. This does throw some ambiguity into the mix when there is also a trail called "coast" but does not lead to the campsite called "coast". Luckily I remembered the name of the trailhead as well as how to get there and didn't start going down the wrong trail. It feels like I'm in the exact opposite place from the national seashore on the cape. There are shore birds, dunes, a very dense, diverse group of native plants that don't grow much outside of this area, and the possibility of great sunsets. I immediately spot a young buck on the side of the trail. Soon after that there is a flock of quail in the trail. Followed by a cool salamander also hiking down the trail. I'm pretty sure I'm in the right place.

    Soon enough I reach my campsite and I set up my tent. I might be a little strange but I enjoy setting up my tent. Otherwise I probably wouldn't enjoy camping much. Finding the right spot, then orienting the tent properly for ease of entry and sunrise while keeping in mind the grade should there be one, and if the tent is in a low spot, is a fun small challenge. The challenge then results in shelter and is fairly gratifying, especially when done properly.

    A quick dinner of still delicious lentil soup, is all that is left to do before heading down to the beach. The beach lies down a path which leads to a small body of water which almost blocks access to the beach. The path turns sharply as it becomes extremely narrow. You are only a few feet above the medium sized pool, but the drop off into the pool is steep. Slipping in might mean complete submersion, which would not be fun. I take careful steps and soon am staring at a beautiful windswept beach. There is a sliver of blue sky close to the horizon. Maybe I'll the sun today! As I walk down the beach, I follow animal tracks. Maybe it's a raccoon's tracks? I never find out, but I do spot some piping plovers. The same birds that nest on cape cod beaches all summer. Then the sunset happened! Well at least I think it did... The small window through the clouds was almost in the right spot. It still made for a great view though. That's as close as I've come to seeing the sun in a few days. Today was a good day.

    Pictures: Route 1 south of Gualala. A little more route 1. The first salamander I've seen in a long time. I remember finding them routinely under a rock which was under a downspout at the house I grew up in. A glimpse of the Pacific. Sunset with some nicely placed flowers. A little later and further down the beach.
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  • Day 55

    Gualala!

    October 24, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    It's fun to say especially when it's pronounced incorrectly. The "G" is shy. Getting to Gualala was an adventure. Route 101 follows the Oregon coast, and then in California, south of redwood park route 1 begins. It immediately winds up and down a mountain for an hour or so till you get back to the coast. Then it continues to wind with a misleading 55mph speed limit. I spend most of my time in 3rd gear dropping into second fairly often. This road is fun! The day goes on, and I realize the last hour and a half of my ride will be in the dark. For the second time on the trip I break one of my rules; no riding at night. Unless I ninja camp in the expected heavy rain and wind, I have to keep going. I gas up and press on. The temp is dropping and I can sense the rain coming. As dusk arrives my visor becomes useless. The salty air condenses on the visor and what I thought was the vapor coming off the crashing waves during the day creating a coastal mist is just a hard to clean layer on my visor which becomes impossible to see through as night falls and headlights refract on the misty slime on the visor. The visor goes up and I hope all the bugs are asleep. It takes a few minutes for my tear ducts to adjust to the increased airflow in my face but soon I can see quite well. Quite well is a relative term as clouds block any light the moon and stars may have provided.

    My concentration level skyrockets as I continue to ride along route 1 into the darkness. I can hear the waves crashing to my right and I start to ride extremely conservatively. A missed turn on a motorcycle on a normal road and you stand a good chance of surviving. Route 1 is less forgiving. The road is in excellent condition however. Very few bumps and well marked center lines make this passage doable. I take the ride one turn at a time and am relieved when I arrive in Gualala.

    It's great to see Sarah and meet her fiance Charlie. She is about to move back to new Orleans so I arrive just in time to check out their sweet apartment right on the coast. Sarah makes an awesome chili for dinner despite having packed most of the spice weasel for the move. I sleep well and get ready for my approach into San Francisco. My bike has the best nights rest nestled in Sarah's garage! Thanks again Sarah and Charlie!

    Photos: view from Sarah's apartment.
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  • Day 53

    Rain Rain, Is Here To Stay

    October 22, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After leaving the sweet shelter of friends houses I ventured down the Oregon coast. Since arriving in Seattle, this was the first night in a tent since Idaho. Time to get back to it. I first ventured east to the Columbia River gorge. Hiked a short way up to check out some falls and then headed for the coast. Riding all day in a slight mist with little sun and low 60s upper 50s got to be pretty bone chilling. I got close to my planned camp for the night, Cape Lookout state park, and then the skies opened up. In a matter of seconds I became drenched. It was raining so hard that I was about to pull over, but it let up slightly and I was so close to the campground that I kept going. There was also no shelter to hide under. Upon arrival I asked a ranger about staying in a yurt, but they were full up. A tent site it was. I set up quickly and arranged my jacket and pants on my bike under my cover as best I could even though I knew they'd still be damp in the morning. I slept well and remained dry through the night, but all my gear was wet. Looking at weather forecasts all night, I decided that exploring the coast was not what I wanted to do. As long as it was raining, I wasn't going to have a lot of fun. The forecast did have a day without rain so I drove to southern Oregon the next day and snagged a cheap motel to dry out my gear in for the night. The coast was still beautiful and my eyes wanted to stay but my hands and feet longed for southern California. Half way through the next day I aim for Gualala CA. A quick stop in redwood national park and I decide to get the hell out of there before some heavy the next day. A childhood friend Sarah Welinsky caught wind of my trip and she and her fiance offered a bed for the night and a chance to catch up.

    Pictures: a waterfall in the gorge. Hug point, and my first view of the Pacific on this trip. All my gear which is dry-ish on the inside, but drenched in the outside. Overall I'm very happy with my pants and jacket. I stayed dry all day underneath those. A Julia Stoner approved beach at lookout park. A hiking trail along the coast. More investigation is needed here. I might be coming back for this. Midway through the day after the rain. The sun is out!
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  • Day 49

    Portland, OR

    October 18, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Before I begin with Portland I did spend a few more days with Ryan and Christina putting up some siding. We continued to have delicious meals and visited a great brewery down the road. They even broke out some champagne the last night of my visit. Thanks again guys! That was fun.

    After Enumclaw I was going to head to Portland, but a storm over the weekend put a damper on the planned birthday party on the coast. I had planned on seeing Tom Bergeron so I had to turn north to spend the night with him. It was nice to go for a bike ride and drink some delicious beers with Tom. I didn't get to meet his new wife Megan, but I'll just have to come back!

    The next morning I made my way to Portland with a stop at the museum of flight in southern Seattle. The museum was cool and a good way to get out of the rain. After the museum I made my way to Portland. Just before getting into Portland it started raining hard. Just enough to get my gloves wet. This would be a common theme in the coming days.

    I stayed with Luke and Michelle for the next few days. We went out for a delicious dinner at the radio room which is right down the street from their house. They live in an great neighborhood, and an awesome house! I was there during the week so we just hung out at night. During the day Luke suggested that I check out the 4T trail which uses the train, tram, trail, and trolley. What an awesome trail. It starts in downtown Portland, takes you up to the zoo, and then you walk to the highest point in Portland on a wooded trail that looks like the island on Jurassic park. At the top you can see Mt saint Helen, Mount Hood, and a few others. There were a lot of clouds so I don't think I saw all the visible peaks. Then you take a tram down to southern Portland and the trolley takes you back to the start.

    Portland is a cool city! They also have delicious doughnuts. I made it my personal quest to sample different shops. Voodoo doughnuts wins for me even though it was the most well known and commercial. The next day it rained all day, so I had breakfast with Laura Totten! Great to catch up with her. After breakfast I decided to check out the arcade. An excellent idea (thanks for putting that seed in my head Tom B.). Time crisis II is just as fun as I remember.

    In the evening Luke, Michelle, and I went out for some food truck dinner. Portland has many of these beauties. I'm going to need to visit Portland again in the summer when it's less rainy. Thanks again for hosting me in Portland Luke and Michelle! Great to see you.

    Photos: Pike Place Market, an unusual break in the clouds and the sun was out. A view of Mount Hood while on the 4T trail in Portland. My favorite doughnut in Portland, the maple bacon bar. An awesome yet unusually placed house along the 4T trail. Great for the residents, but unfortunate for the landscape. The tram back down to Portland. Breakfast with Laura.
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  • Day 36

    Back to Boston

    October 5, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    After a few days in Enumclaw I was soon on my way back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding. I was excited to see them get hitched as well as everyone who was going to be at the wedding.

    Before going into Boston, Andrew had offered to pick me up from the airport just after midnight, so I gladly accepted and spent the next day in Andover. He even took the day off so we could hang out. We started thinking about what to do on the day off. We decided to check out Nahant. I've only been to Nahant once in college and it wasn't during the day so it was cool to explore the peninsula. Northeastern has a lab out there which also happens to be an old gun installation from WWII. Pretty cool if you are looking for something to explore near Boston for a few hours.

    After getting back, Andrew, Amanda and I went out for dinner at the local Mexican joint. A delicious dinner with great friends!

    The next day was spent with the wedding party. We moved stuff around, prepared flowers, and went through a rehearsal at the church. It was fun for me but probably stressful for the bride and groom. So many things to get done, I'm not sure how they remembered their names as the end of the day. Speaking of the end of the day, we had dinner at branch line courtesy of Paul and Ann Babineau. Delicious food and drinks. Then we finished the night at the hotel bar before getting some much needed rest.

    Wedding day! A few more tasks to check off the list, but then it was time to get to the church. The ceremony was beautiful. I won't bore you with the details, typical wedding stuff, except it was Matt and Genevieve so you can imagine what it was like you weren't there.

    The next day brought brunch, and Mike McLinn's birthday! I lucked out and got to see him on his birthday which was a nice change of pace. The following day I went for a hike near Waterville valley with 15 friends! Definitely the biggest group of hikers in an unorganized event. The hike was amazing and it was great to see friends again.

    Special thanks to Mike Lambert and Sarah for letting me crash at their place and stashing my dehydrated food there. The next morning I was back on a plane to Seattle.

    Pictures: Boston from Nahant. Limo to the church. Mr McCann in fine form at the hotel after the wedding. Not sure how they expect keep things quiet with a vuvuzela in the lobby. Hiking with some of my favorite people. The foliage was also fine form. Sun bathing in October at the top of our hike.
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  • Day 32

    Enumclaw

    October 1, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Enumclaw! The name says a lot. Friends from Northeastern (Ryan and Christina) who moved to the PNW some time ago moved to Enumclaw a few years ago to get out of the city and find a piece of land to call their own. I got wind of a barn project while on my way out to their house and offered to help while I was there. Upon arrival I met their friend Kevin who was a driving force for part of the project. Raising the barn a bit too make the walls straight, level out the roof line and pour a foundation under the barn. A project I was interested in to see how it was going to unfold. The property was huge compared to city dwelling. A large field out back with a big barn, a massive detached garage and a single level house. I was taken with the garage. A man cave which when fully functional could crank out projects which I can only dream of at this point.

    Hanging out with Ryan, Christina, and Kevin was a blast. We would work on the barn during the day, eat delicious food from chef Christina at night, talk and eventually play a dice game called farkle. The day I arrived it was partly cloudy. After that the sun decided to go on vacation. Aside from the lack of sun I really enjoyed Enumclaw. Soon it came time for me to fly back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding. Barn work progressed quickly and we finished the foundation slightly ahead of schedule. Before I went back to Boston I agreed to help put up new siding on the barn when I returned. After which there was going to be a birthday party on the coast with a bunch of people. Just like that I'd had the most plans I've had since the beginning of the trip.

    Pictures:
    Mount Renier from Ryan and Christina's yard. I think this was the only day I could see the mountain. A view from the plane on my way back to Seattle after the wedding. The Olympics are in the background.
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  • Day 31

    Idaho

    September 30, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 17 °C

    After leaving Bozeman I decided to take two days to ride to Ryan and Christina's place near Seattle. The first day was a relatively short drive, only about 300 miles. First I made a necessary stop at the new day bakery to pick up breakfast, and some snacks for the ride. I actually drove by the bakery at first, but saw a sign that said fresh donuts and the place looked like a real bakery so I turned around. I'm glad I did cause they had some delicious confections inside. A scarfed down a cinnamon roll and then headed for the post office. Special thanks goes out to Mike Lambert for shipping me a resupply of dehydrated food I had made over the summer. I picked up the package which had some surprise jerky included. Just what I needed for a pick me up in between breakfast and dinner.

    Soon I was on the interstate. I was on a very familiar road, I-90, but I was in Montana where the speed limit is 80. I am welcomed to the road with large fast moving tractor trailers which are far in excess of the truck speed limit which is only 65 or 70. After jockeying for position, I settle in to the elevated speed limit. The road heads for Butte, Montana and I see signs for chain up areas ahead. Soon the road starts to climb and the large trucks fade away in the mirrors. Beautiful curves start to wind up into the mountains and then come back down on the other side. Despite the high speed limit this was probably my favorite stretch of interstate I've been on to this point. The road is smooth, windy with banked turns and appropriately marked corner entrance speeds. The scenery is also gorgeous.

    My goal for the day is to get to the Knife Edge Campground which is a free campsite with 5 spots located along the Lochsa river in Kooskia, Idaho. This part of the trip brings me up and over the Rockies. I get onto route 12 in Lolo, Montana and I see a strange sign. It says motorcycles use caution for the next 35 miles. The sign has a cryptic image of a motorcycle with arrows on either side of the rider. I find the "motorcycles use caution" signs to be redundant as I'm always using caution, but I appreciate the warning never the less. I then see signs saying that there won't be a gas station for about 90 miles. I look at how far I've gone on this tank and should have about 50 miles to spare which is enough to keep going despite elevation changes.

    The road begins to twist, and soon there are no more straight sections of road, it is one turn right after another. The other vehicles I see are mostly motorcycles and sports cars. I think I know what that cryptic sign meant, this is going to be a fun ride. Before I know it I've climbed to the top of the range and am on the border of Montana and Idaho. It is 5 or 6 o'clock (I'm uncertain because I think I'm right on a time zone border), and there is a visitor center that has just closed. I talk to a fellow rider who is headed the other way. We trade beta on the roads and wish each other safe travels. The path I am on now is one that Lewis and Clark blazed before there were roads or even detailed maps. Those guys had a real thirst for adventure. I come to a sign that says winding road next 99 miles, and the day continues to be a beautiful ride. This part of Idaho is absolutely beautiful. I am in Clearwater National Forest and this is the most scenic national Forest I've come across. Trail heads and now closed for the season campgrounds line the roadside. My backup plan should there be no sites left at the knife edge is to continue along the road till I find a suitable place to sleep. Luckily I arrive and there is one spot left. All the other campers are in gigantic RVs who look like they've been there all summer. I set up my tent and it's almost invisible compared to the RVs. Soon after my tent is up, a large truck pulls in, circles around once and leaves disappointed. If I had been 20 minutes later, that could have been me. It gets dark soon and I plan my next day. I decide to drive clear across Washington as some rainy weather is approaching. The long drive the following day encourages me to go to bed early.

    6:30, which I realized was really 5:30 arrived and I woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed. I pack up camp and hit the road before anyone else in the campground is awake or the sun is visible. I'm in a fairly deep valley so direct sunlight won't be for a few more hours. The road continues to wind and descend. It didn't seem all that cold out but my hands started to get cold from the wind chill. My heated grips heat my palms but my finger tips are numb. I stop on the side of the road to warm up my hands, and it's a great time to snap a few photos. I search for some breakfast but don't see anything along the roadway worth stopping for. Soon I'm in Lewiston, which is the biggest town I've seen that morning. I pull over and do a quick Google search, yielding a near perfect 4.9 star review of a bbq joint. Upon closer inspection, they are open for breakfast and I make a b-line for breakfast. I skipped oatmeal and decided to have one good meal to fuel the ride. It was a great choice. I also order a hot chocolate that comes with whipped cream on top. A perfect way to get rid of the chill in my hands. The online review was accurate. Breakfast was delicious and just what I needed.

    The national Forest in Idaho was lush with trees and a river. Eastern Washington looked like a dessert. Still beautiful, but a stark contrast from the morning. The roads for the first half of the day were a lot of fun, but they soon became straight, and dessert turned to irrigated farmland. Crops I have yet to see emerge from the landscape; onions and wine grapes. As the day goes on I get closer to Seattle and Enumclaw. More and more cars fill the roadway as I enter the Cascade range. Again I start to ascend, this time the temperature drops noticeably as I go into the last mountain range I'll cross going east to west. Another beautiful and green mountain range within a national Forest. I'll have to revisit these places when the weather is favorable.

    Before I know it the day is nearing its end and I've hit my first real traffic since Massachusetts. I can't say I was happy about it having left at 6am, and it's now about 6pm. The traffic is so bad that I can't get off the exit I wanted to. I go to the next exit and turn around after realizing that is the only way I can go unless I want to add another hour and a half to the ride. Upon reaching Ryan and Christina's home, I can finally relax. A long but productive day.

    Pictures: The Lochsa river. My favorite sign on the trip. More river. A much needed breakfast. The pancakes we not on the side, they came with the meal! Idaho is winning.
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