camino 2017

mai - juillet 2017

Une aventure de 49 jours par Laurie En savoir plus

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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 17 mai 2017 à 20:58
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 21 m
- France Nouvelle-Aquitaine Bayonne Saint-Esprit Nive 43.49612, -1.46960843°29’46” N 1°28’11” W
Jour 1
Bayonne
17 mai 2017, France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The Baztan Five have all arrived in the lovely city of Bayonne. Four of us left Irun and walked along the coast for about 15 km and then hopped on a bus to go inland to Bayonne.

The coastal walk was lovely, though sometimes near the road. When we arrived in St. Jean de Luz we had a very delicious lunch and then took the slow bus to Bayonne.

Bayonne is really a lovely city. See for yourself.En savoir plus
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 18 mai 2017 à 14:55
- 🌧 11 °C
- Altitude: 85 m
- France Nouvelle-Aquitaine Espelette 43.340374, -1.44827943°20’25” N 1°26’54” W
1
Jour 2
In Espelette
18 mai 2017, France ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
Today started with a little drizzle as we walked over to the patisserie for coffee and a pastry. Kathy spied a big bag of day old pastries for 2 euros and bought them for the road. That was probably the best bargain of the whole Camino de Baztán. Even at one day old, French pastries are superb!

The walk out of Bayonne was along the river, many pleasant car-free kms on a path. But the rain was constant. Soaked, we walked into Ustaritz 14 km later. There was a bar where we took refuge and had a coffee. Still the rain came down. Then we decided to have a bowl of soup and still the rain came down. Another coffee or tea and we decided there was no point in waiting any longer. So the last 10 km were just like the first 14 --rain every step. It is beautiful countryside, with farmhouses, crops, and meadows with lots of goats and sheep grazing.

When we arrived in Espelette, the thought of an albergue was not too appealing. Nuala remembered the name of a hotel that has special pilgrim prices. When the owner told us she would dry our shoes in the boiler room, that sealed the deal. So here we are, showered and happy, having walked around this cutesy town and visited the church. Dinner in 20 minutes. Rain in the forecast again tomorrow.En savoir plus
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Dana Davies What a good looking poncho!
20/05/2017Répondre
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 19 mai 2017 à 13:50
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 102 m
- Espagne Navarra Baztan Urdazubi 43.266543, -1.50394643°15’60” N 1°30’14” W
Jour 3
Break in Urdax
19 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
We are back in Spain, having had a beautiful morning walk. This is a monastery town, with a lovely stream running through it. Just a few drizzles, nothing terrible. One of those days with gorgeous views in every direction. We've gone through a couple of little Basque towns.

Nuala and I decided to try to find an off-road route for a while and did pretty well for the first 20 minutes or so. But then we must have gotten turned around, because the forestry workers we went to ask for directions spoke to us in French, and by our calculations we should have arrived in Spain! No harm done, we were in a lovely woods, and we were soon back on track. We have joined up with the other more sensible three who stuck with the route, and are eating a meal in a little café here in town. About 10 more kilometers from Urdax to our day's destination.En savoir plus
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 19 mai 2017 à 22:15
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 294 m
- Espagne Navarra Baztan Maya del Baztán 43.201144, -1.47920443°12’4” N 1°28’45” W
Jour 3
Amaiur, Spain
19 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
This is a beautiful town. We had a great afternoon walk from Urdax. It was about 600 m up to the high point and then down to this gorgeous little town where we are staying in the Casa Rural Goiz Argi. One in a single room, four in two doubles, with three bathrooms! After our hot shower, our very hot shower, we set out to find a place to eat. At a nice looking mesón type place, there was a sign saying it would open and giving a phone number. I called, and the owner told us that yes, they were opening in about an hour but we were not welcome there. Plan B -- move up the street to the bar for a meal high in fat and fried, and low in fresh and healthy. How does this sound--fried eggs, fried potatoes, chistorra (Basque sausage), and some red wine?

Tomorrow we have an easy day. 20 km to Berreota. Very little elevation gain. The Basque Country is beautiful.En savoir plus
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 20 mai 2017 à 07:57
- ⛅ 10 °C
- Altitude: 336 m
- Espagne Navarra Baztan Maya del Baztán Monte Alcurrunz 43.21766, -1.4793643°13’4” N 1°28’46” W
Jour 4
Baztan
20 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
Well I woke up this morning to a phone that won't turn on. Sinking pit in the stomach.

So if you don't hear anything from me, it's not because something has happened. I will just go ahead and buy a new phone in Pamplona but that's three days from here. My pals will let me use there phone till then so maybe I'll just post some of Nuala's pictures. This is by no means the worse thing that could happen and it has a solution, just an expensive one.En savoir plus
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 20 mai 2017 à 19:30
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 370 m
- Espagne Navarra Baztan Berroeta 43.10463, -1.59018643°6’17” N 1°35’25” W
Jour 4
Beorreta
20 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
The phone is fixed! I can't believe it. This will be short, because there's just too much beauty all around, and we want to go for a little walk. Today's walk was just amazing, through the Basque valleys with lots of beautiful little towns. The town of Elizondo is particularly nice, and it figures prominently in a current best seller trilogy by Dolores Redondo (a prosecutor). I've read the first one, and though I'm not much of a murder mystery reader, it was very enjoyable and a great introduction to the area. Two more days to Pamplona, and tomorrow is supposedly the most beautiful stage. It's hard to believe that it gets any prettier than this.

We are in a nice albergue, only one other person with us, and Vira has cooked us a very good pasta dinner. All in all, the Basque countryside is five star. So so beautiful!En savoir plus
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 21 mai 2017 à 19:21
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 640 m
- Espagne Navarra Lantz Río de Lanz 42.998527, -1.61988942°59’55” N 1°37’12” W
Jour 5
Lantz
21 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
So today was one of those five star walks. Nuala and I decided to take the longer and maybe a bit higher route. Not one step was on pavement. Through the beech woods and up to the ridge where there were gorgeous views. One of those days where you have to pinch yourself and just soak it all in.

Somewhat unbelievably, just when we got to the point where the official route merged with our off-route alternative, we saw the other three.

We are in an albergue in the town of Lantz, which is about 30 km outside of Pamplona. That is where this Camino ends, merging with the hoards on the Camino Frances.

There we five will all say goodbye. Tomorrow after we walk, I am going back up to Irun to start the Norte. I have to get a bus or train from Pamplona. Just one more day on the beautiful Camino Baztan.

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Dana Davies Stunning!
21/05/2017Répondre
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 22 mai 2017 à 14:30
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 422 m
- Espagne Navarra Tafalla 42.500453, -1.68365542°30’2” N 1°41’1” W
Jour 6
Iza
22 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
I am on a bus! This morning I left by myself at 7, since that Spanish pilgrim staying in our Albergue told me that he hadn't been able to get a bus ticket for Valencia. Since I didn't have my bus ticket to get me from Pamplona back to Irún, and since I really have to start the Norte tomorrow, I decided to leave by myself and walk straight into Pamplona. It was a long 30 K day with some asphalt close to the city, but lots of it was very pretty.

This route is also a local hiking trail, so they really do try to keep it away from the highway on earth paths. I went through several cute villages, saw an old medieval bridge or two, and then had many kilometers walking next to the river into Pamplona.

In Pamplona, I went to the cathedral to get a stamp for my credencial and then headed straight to the bus station. Turns out I had missed the bus to Irún by about six minutes, but there was another one leaving in about 20 minutes that would take me to San Sebastián. That's where I am now. From San Sebastián it will be a short bus ride over to Irun, which was a lot more convenient than waiting till the next bus at 6 PM.

Only thing is, this means I really didn't get to say goodbye to my four friends, who were still many kilometers away when I got on the bus. That also means I didn't get to thank them all with big hugs for all the wonderful times we had on this walk. It's not often that five strangers can come together and feel like old friends in a very short time. I'm hoping this won't be the last time we walk together!En savoir plus
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Voyageur Fantastic photos Laurie, our Baztan Camino was something very special. Wishing you a Buen Camino for the del Norte xx
23/05/2017Répondre
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 23 mai 2017 à 16:02
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 685 m
- Espagne Navarra Urraul Alto Epároz 42.765162, -1.22085642°45’55” N 1°13’15” W
Jour 7
San Sebastián
23 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Wow, what a beautiful day of walking, and now an afternoon enjoying this beautiful city. I left Irun at about 7:15, and in the first 10 minutes I saw about 12 other pilgrims! Shocking! But once I got up to the sanctuary of Guadalupe, where the Camino splits into several options, I was virtually alone all the way into San Sebastián.

This walk has several parts. Once you go up the mountain behind the sanctuary, you are walking along the ridge, with amazing views off to the ocean. It was a little cloudy for this part, but that's OK, because it is great walking weather and there was no shade up there. Would be very hot in morning sun. When you go down to the tiny village of Pasajes de San Juan, there's a little ferry boat to take you across the inlet.

Then another ascent, and another beautiful coastal walk until finally the big San Sebastián beach is right below you and you walk into town. At one point about 5 km outside of the city, there was a split. The Camino went to the left, but there was a marker for the GR 121 to the right. Luckily, there was a man out walking his dogs along the coast, and I asked him if he knew both routes. He told me that the Camino path takes you up to an asphalt road for the descent to Pasajes. But the GR121 hugs the coast and stays off road. Guess which I took?! Maybe a km or two longer and a bit more up and down but just no comparison.

Lesson number one on the Camino del Norte-- whenever there is a GR option, take it!

I am in a pension again, but will probably start with the Albergue routine tomorrow. I've just finished a menu del día that was excellent. Mixed greens with pequillo peppers and tuna; some grilled fish from the sea that I didn't know (faneca); homemade cuajada (a yoghurt-like concoction but made of sheep milk, one of my favorites). All for 12 euros. The Spanish meal times work very well for me when I'm walking. I try to arrive at my destination no later than 2 or 230, shower and wash clothes, and go out to eat. Since they serve lunch till 4 PM, this works great. Time for a stroll to buy some new socks and walk along the beach. I am so lucky!En savoir plus
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Laurie Reynolds camino 2017
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- 23 mai 2017 à 20:03
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 517 m
- Espagne Navarra Romanzado Domeño 42.681427, -1.24145542°40’53” N 1°14’29” W
Jour 7
Afternoon in San Sebastián
23 mai 2017, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
How lucky am I. Went to the Pension Donostiarra where I have a room with balcony for 40€. That's a little high for pilgrims but this is an expensive city.

After the Pilgrim routine of washing clothes and showering, there was still plenty of time for me to go eat lunch, since lunch in Spain goes till 4 PM. I found a little place with outdoor tables in a lovely pedestrian square, had a good meal, and soaked it all in. After lunch, I spent a few hours walking around town, up and down its two amazing beaches. I went through the old part, where I remember that Dana and I spent an awful noisy night many years ago. I'm glad to be out of that area for sleeping. Tomorrow I have a pretty long walk, but I'm feeling good and my feet are fine, nothing else matters.En savoir plus
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