France
Bayonne

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    • Day 2

      Bayonne viva la france

      April 24, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Nun bin ich da irgendwo in Frankreich gestrandet war mein erster Gedanke und dann gab es doch heute einen ersten magic Moment. Dazu später mehr.

      Nun wollte ich schon immer mal in Frankreich sein und siehe da heute ist es soweit. Am wichtigen Tag für Europa ob macron oder le pen. Keine Ahnung von der französischen Politik, aber alles kann nur besser sein als le pen und für Europa.

      So bin ich hier und der Ort entwickelte sich als schnuckelig mit kleinen Gässchen und wirklich hilfsbereiten Franzosen : innen.

      Ich konnte durchs Ballett (tanzsprache ist französisch) petit petit eine falaffel avec pommes problemlos bestellen, mercy und orevis sagen.

      Ne nette Mademoiselle gab mir einen Tipp für einen Park wo ich essen wollte. Nach zwei Kilometer bergauf km kam ich an einem Friedhof an 😂, der aber sehr schön ansich angelegt war. Ruhe und Gedanken hätte ideal gepasst aber Imbissessen. So lief ich weiter und hab an der Bushaltestelle gesessen und als ich fertig war kam der magic Moment. Da hat sich wer auf meinem Schuh niedergelassen (siehe Foto).

      Das Glück war bei mir und ich habe es in mich genommen und als ich wieder aufbrechen wollte flog der Gast wieder weg.

      Danke Bayonne!!! 😍

      Nun warte ich satt und beeindruckt vorm Bahnhof, mit meinem allererstern original Cafe aut lait und warte auf Zug und dann Bus zum Ausgangsort "Saint Jean Pied de Port".
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    • Day 75

      regentour

      October 6, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      eingepackt wurde alles noch im trockenen. dann gings weiter mit etwas nieselregen, der uns eigentlich noch nie von der fahrt abgehalten hat. und auf einmal kam der starke regen. wir beschlossen, bis zur nächsten unterkunft weiter zu fahren. die fahrradroute führte uns neben jacks burger vorbei und dort haben wir uns aufgewärmt. der regen hörte auf und wir starteten durch. weiter gings entlang des fahrradweges, bis er abrupt endete (siehe foto). ein wendemanöver mit der carla war unmöglich, also mussten wir mittendurch. stadtbesichtigung durch bayonne und anschliessend starker regen bis zum bitteren ende. der camping wollte uns nicht mehr in einem mobilehome; wir seien zu spät (um 15.00 Uhr gibt es kein check-in mehr); also flüchteten wir ins b&b hotel. die kinder geniessen ihr eigens 4er zimmer und wir ebenso. moritz war noch so lieb und hat uns die foto geschickt von gestern.Read more

    • Day 11

      An excursion to St Jean de Luz

      April 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      The weather is holding up beautifully and today we got the train (3 stops) to St Jean de Luz. Such as lovely place, as we discovered 18 months ago - a long line of beach with cliffs, a fishing port section, lovely Basque style houses…very much a summer resort.

      We walked the length of the beach, and up to the high point on one end from where you can look back and see the line of Pyrenees mountains coming right to the coast. We sat and had a light lunch (as we have a dinner reservation tonight at 8pm in a rather special restaurant we discovered last visit). We had intended to go back to the market where we had seen a man making paella - it looked and smelled wonderful, and he was in the process of adding a sack of mussels and then chorizo…but when we came back it was all gone!! Oh well, John had spotted a nice little place to eat and we were content. So we had a beautiful day of wandering the streets and coast. Sat and had a kindle time in a square before coming back about 5 o’clock. It actually got too hot sitting in the sun!! We knew that was the prediction and had layers to remove…it had been quite cold in the early morning.

      Now downtime before dinner…..back from dinner…a real experience of fine dining! We had stumbled on this restaurant last time, and managed to get a booking for tonight, in the annex…the main part is very small, and so they have a room 2 doors up the street for about 30 more people. They run dishes to and fro on trays…lovely waiters, so busy running all night. Won’t describe each course, but you will see from the photos how special it was, and the tastes amazing. Off to sleep…
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    • Day 8

      Back to France - Bayonne

      May 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      I'll start my solo Camino del Norte from Bayonne. I walked this route back in 2018 and started in Irun in Spain - I didn't realize then that I could start on the trail in France.

      I saw the rest of the group off on the Camino in Pamplona, then headed to the bus station for my journey to Bayonne.

      After arriving at the pilgrim refuge Chez Veronique where it appears I will have the place to myself the first order of business was to do laundry.

      While my clothes were in the wash I decided to wander over to the Bayonne Cathedral, which is right next to where I'm staying tonight.

      It's quite a beautiful place. Rather than try to write about it myself I've copied what Wikipedia has to say.

      "The site was previously occupied by a Romanesque cathedral that was destroyed by two fires in 1258 and 1310.[1] Construction of the present cathedral began in the 13th century and was completed at the beginning of the 17th, except for the two spires which were not finished until the 19th century. The structure has been much restored and refurbished, notably by Émile Boeswildwald, architect to the French government in the 19th century, and a pupil of Eugène Viollet-le-Duc.[2]"
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    • Day 39

      BAYONNE

      November 14, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Da es morgens regnet, beschließen Johann und ich ins naheliegende Städtchen bei Bayonne zu fahren.
      Ein großer Parkplatz ist nahe den Zentrum, wir nehmen den Regenschirm und Pilgern los. Diese Ortschaft hat einen reizenden Innenstadtkern, wir beschließen in einem Streetfood Lokal noch eine Kleinigkeit als Verpflegung zu kaufen, die Auswahl ist riesengroß und jede einzelne der Speisen köstlich im Geschmack und wunderbar anzusehen. Als Besonderheit ist die Kathedrale zu erwähnen.
      Man geht hinein und der Atem steht still, eine komplett andere Architektur die mein Auge sehr erfreut hat. Am zeitigen Nachmittag geht's zurück zum Auto und wir fahren noch Biarritz besichtigen
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    • Day 13

      Easter Sunday, another trip to Biarritz

      April 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Our last day in Bayonne - and we decided to go again to Biarritz…it is so easy on the bus (even if chaotic on the return journey!) and the lovely weather holds. So first we went to the aquarium which we had seen yesterday and planned to return to…Carole and John were very impressed and happy there, and we didn’t last as long as they did, but it was a good display, and we agreed to meet at the same fish restaurant as yesterday at 2pm, for a late lunch. We went by there earlier, and our waiter recognised us and said if we came at 2 it would be fine (the sign said finish lunch at 2, but we did see them seating people after that, a flexi schedule).

      So we met at 2 and had a lovely Easter feast. Not quite as frenetic as yesterday but all quite busy, and the bus coming back to Bayonne was as crowded as ever. After lunch we all went our separate ways. C and J went back to see the Basque Museum in Bayonne, and we wandered along the waterfront one last time, had a coffee and after more wandering had a drink at a very swish bar (the array of bottles was impressive).

      Now back, and getting ready to get the little train up to St Jean Pied de Port tomorrow morning. About to meet C and J for a drink, and maybe a very small snack (I am still full from lunch)…

      Back from our small eating…I just ordered cheese as couldn’t face an actual plate, even salad! Maybe it was because I ate all the mash they served with the fish! It was delicious, with a touch of nutmeg…tonight it was a plate of lots of cheese to share, so we have smuggled a supply out in a napkin to have tomorrow…but some cheese, bread and a glass of red was all I needed now…and an Easter egg from the hotel reception! Perfect. Walking back we noticed that the clouds are gathering…I think our perfect weather may be ending…can’t complain though, it has been so good.
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    • Day 1

      Day 1 - Bayonne to Espelette 24 kms (30)

      May 13, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      Our first day on the Baztan was full of surprises, not all of them good. But I can say that, despite the odds, our day ended well. It was a day we won’t forget in a hurry.

      We left the Refuge de Saint Jacques at 7.30 in light rain, after a good night’s sleep (yes even in a dormitory) and a typical French breakfast - cafe, pain et confiture. We were the first to leave the gite, thanked our kind hospitaleros Jean-Pierre and Claire and wished our fellow pilgrims, heading for other routes, un bon chemin. Apart from the weather, we were expecting an easy first day in the valley before the climbing that is to come.

      We had about 24 kms to walk with the halfway point being Ustaritz. For the first 12 kms alongside the River Nive we had dark grey clouds threatening and intermittent blue skies toying with us. We were happy to have our walking umbrellas. We made it to Ustaritz, bought a sandwich from a supermarket and found a ‘tranquille’ spot, beside the cemetery! The rain largely abated and we had just 12 kms to walk to Espelette. What could possibly go wrong?

      About an hour after Ustaritz, and with just 7 or 8 kms to go, the path led further down into the valley and was suddenly impossibly impassable! See photo and video. After various attempts at ‘walkarounds’ we accepted that we had to retrace a few kms and find another way. This we did, but two hours later we found ourselves in the same situation but even further from our destination. Once again we had no choice but to retrace our steps. We knew by now we were many more hours walk from Espelette, even if walking on the road.

      I can say that after many Caminos, and more than a few challenges, we’ve never felt quite so (almost) defeated. As we made our way back up the forest path towards the road a young woman appeared. We said bonjour and, without hesitation, Domi told her of our predicament and asked if she had a car nearby. She did. We would be happy to pay her if she could drive us to Espelette. She said she’d be happy to drive us and did not want any payment. She was kind and delightful. 🙏

      During our rescue journey we learned that our Camino Angel’s name is Maia and that she is expecting her first baby. She told us about the very heavy rains of the previous week which resulted in that section of the Baztan Valley being impassable. She assured us that there was no path that would take us around the flooded area. Somehow it made us feel better to know that. We were in the car with Maia for nearly half an hour which - albeit on narrow winding roads - gives some indication of how long it may have taken us to walk.

      And all of a sudden we were in Espelette. Maia didn’t want a photo taken but took one of us alongside the ‘rescue vehicle’. Despite her protests we insisted that she please accept our offer - if not for herself then to buy something for the baby with the gratitude and good wishes of the Australian and The French. ❤️

      There were a few times today when we wondered if we would make it to Espelette. Well, we are very happily settled into our room at Hotel Euzkadi and have just returned from a sumptuous dinner in their restaurant. Now … we can look back on today as ‘un grand aventuré.

      And we have what we think is a good plan for our next two stages. Until then. 😎
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    • Day 12

      Easter Saturday in Biarritz

      April 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      OMG just realised I haven’t written up the day, and it’s 10.40 and I’m showered and ready for bed…and there’s so much to say, but will try and make it concise!! First, I must elaborate about the wonderful dinner last night, rather than just the photos…it was at La Table de Sébastien Gravé, and a very special night. And for €49 a head it was pretty amazing, compared to our prices for the equivalent meal.

      Anyway, today we got the bus to Biarritz. Another beautiful day, and found it is as enchanting as ever. It is ritzy, but not formal and posh…in the front there is La Grande Plage (where today there was a surf carnival, sounded just like Manly with the loud speakers etc) then there are promenades each way, which lead to many other coves and beaches, and amazing rock formations. So beautiful…Carole and John were blown away I think, and tomorrow we all plan to return there for another day of relaxation.. Biarritz is between Bayonne and st Jean de Luz….bigger and it is where the airport is. So we had a light lunch in the little fishing village area, walked to the lighthouse, and eventually went to get the bus back at about 5 o’clock…

      Well that was the start of the craziness…we knew the jamon festival in Bayonne was a big thing, plus it’s Easter Saturday and a holiday, but we got the bus at the beginning of the journey back, and with the crowds waiting it was full to start…I managed to get a seat, but the others stood the whole way, as at each stop more people packed on…all about 20+ and obviously heading to Bayonne to rage! It was quite funny, and happy…like a party bus…and when we got back, Bayonne was crazy…crowds that you could hardly walk through…

      We wanted to find somewhere for dinner, but had doubts of the possibility…but happily found a creperie that had tables not yet full, and that was a good dinner..galettes with Basque jambon, cheese etc. (very like 4 Frogs!)…getting back to the hotel was a feat…Amr and I stayed out and tried to find somewhere to eat tomorrow night, but places were either closed or not taking bookings…so we’ll see…maybe a late lunch in Biarritz! And another funny thing, at the creperie, when Amr and I were waiting in line for the one toilet, we got talking to the couple in front of us and he was amazed we were Aussies and said he lived in Australia 10 years ago, and in Manly!! He couldn’t believe we lived in Manly, and thus developed a great friendship!!

      Off to sleep, but will put some photos of the beauty of Biarritz.
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    • Day 19

      Tag 18: Verabschiedung

      March 14 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Nach der Nacht am Strand erstmal den ganzen Sand einpacken und Richtung Moliets fahren. Mittags richtig geil snacken Kaffee trinken und dann zum ersten Reparaturstopp nach Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains. Mein Rad hatte nur ne lockere Schraube - Brians musste länger repariert werden. Deshalb trennen sich unsre Wege hier wieder leider - schade - war richtig schön!
      Ich fahr weiter nach Bayonne, um endlich mal wieder „normal“ zu duschen und meine Sachen zu waschen. Morgen gehts dann weiter nach Spanien - richtig Bock 🚴‍♂️
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    • Day 38

      Bayonne

      September 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Being back in a town is quite a shock, after walking through forest for a week, and I'm already wanting to be back with the trees, which is a bit of a scary reaction.

      I'm staying in a pilgrim hostel with a German, a South Korean, and three French. I was disappointed the South Korean guy hadn't walked but I hid it well.

      The French lady who volunteers at the hostel speaks a little English and Spanish so we've been talking in all three, often in the same sentence, and it works really well. She's trying to get me to walk through Portugal next!

      Bayonne is surprisingly small but the centre is very vibrant and pretty. It is the capital of the Basque region in France so it has a bit of a Spanish vibe. They have bullfighting here, there's tapas in the bars, and there's an Irish pub so you could think you were in Spain.

      I found out today that as well as being famous for its ham, it is also famous for its chocolate. After Spain started to eradicate Judaism in 1492, many Jews hopped across the border to Bayonne. The Bayonnaise limited the trading options available to the Jews so they became experts in making drinking chocolate and today's fame grew from there.

      Photos - Bayonne is impossible to photograph as the rivers are too wide and the streets too narrow but I've tried.
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