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Camino 2022 , Torres and GeiraCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
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Camino 2022 , Torres and Geira

September - October 2022
About 640 km, starting in Salamanca, heading over to Portugal, and north from Braga to Santiago. I am combining two different caminos, the Camino de Torres and the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros. Read more
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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
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    1
    Day 16

    Guimarães to Braga (19 km)

    September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    When I started out this morning, I saw that the tracks would take me back up to the castle. Since I had gone up there twice yesterday, I didn’t see the need to do it again, so I just took the straight shot out of town. Call me a cheater.

    Almost all of the day was through the suburbs of the town I was leaving or suburbs of the town I was entering, with one hard up and down through a eucalyptus forest over Roman Road in between the two ends.

    There were some stretches with terrible traffic on extremely narrow roads with stone walls on either side. That was a challenge, especially since by about 8, the morning rush-hour began in earnest. I took it very slow and held my walking stick out a bit so that the cars would get the idea.

    I came across a stretch of road that was being repaired. I could hear it before I saw it, that clink clink clink that you’ve heard if you’ve been in Portugal. I had never known the name of those tiles, which they use both in streets and on sidewalks. They’re not really cobblestones, but they’re not tiles either. I learned today that they are called Paralelos.

    The path up and down the monte/serra was rough. Some of it looks like it was intact Roman Road, some of it was torn to pieces Roman Road, and some of it was just loose rocks with falling eucalyptus branches all over it. Not fun. It wasn’t much more than 300 m up, but that was plenty.

    I decided to go for a nice hotel today, and I found one that has a good breakfast starting at seven. I have a short day tomorrow, only 16 km, and can sleep in a bit and enjoy breakfast!

    After the wash and shower routine, I added 6 km to my day by walking out to see a seventh century chapel, São Frutuoso. It’s attached to a 17 century baroque church, and I learned that in 1966, the Cathedral of Santiago returned Saint Frutuoso’s relics to the place where they had been stolen by a very important bishop from Santiago in the 12th century. They are now displayed prominently in the baroque church.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    1
    Day 17

    Braga to Caldelas (20 km)

    September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today I started a new camino. Leaving Braga there are several choices. The first one is to head north west to Ponte De Lima (one of my favorite towns in Portugal) and join the central Portuguese camino. I’ve walked that caminho, so I am trying something new.

    The Caminho I’ve chosen is called the Geira e dos Arrieiros, Geira refers to the Roman road that linked Braga to Astorga. Arrieiros refers to the men in the Middle Ages who transported Ribeiro wine to the north of the peninsula, where it was highly regarded. This caminho takes you on some of their old paths. There is a very active and passionate Association promoting the route. There are also two other routes, the Miñota y Ribeiro and the Camino São Bento. Arrows all over the place in different directions.

    I slept in and sauntered down for breakfast at 7:30, which is very late for a peregrina. The day started by walking back down to the Visigothic chapel I visited yesterday, And on the way down I reminded myself that my Camino buddies Nick and Wendy had warned me to pay careful attention and be sure to get on the right Camino. Well right at the chapel, I met Bruno, a Portuguese pilgrim heading for the central route. We chatted about the different routes, and then about his trips to Chicago and San Francisco, and then about my town in Illinois, and then about gun violence in the United States (not my choice of topic), and then it occurred to me to look at my GPS. And guess what, I was on the wrong route. With my stellar GPS skills, I was able to get myself over to the right route without totally backtracking, but I added about 3 km to my total. Bruno insisted on walking me back, since he felt like it was partially his fault, which is of course nonsense.

    The rest of the way was all on pavement with a few brief sections on dirt paths. I had a snack and a rest at the Monastery of Santo Antonio de Rentufe. No way to get inside, though I saw some pictures that looked interesting.

    As I arrived in Caldelas, I came by a little hotel with a nice outdoor garden. The albergue is only another few hundred meters, but I just decided to give this place a try. I am sure the albergue is very nice but I tell myself I have surely filled my albergue quota by now.

    My afternoon entertainment consisted in checking out the spa. Waters for intestinal problems. Another spout had water for liver, kidney, and one other organ I didn’t understand. Medical prescription required.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    1121
    Day 18

    Caldelas to Campo de Geres (30 km)

    September 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I am in the swing of the Camino. And I’m feeling so lucky to be here.

    The first 6 or 7 km were on asphalt but very untraveled roads. In one of the little hamlets, I met a woman who was walking to mass in the church that I had passed maybe 15 minutes earlier. She told me it takes her a half an hour to get there and I wasn’t certain if she was asking me to come to mass with her or telling me that she was going to meet someone there.

    After the asphalt ended and the actual Geira (Roman road) began, I was surprised by three things. First there was a fair number of eucalyptus trees, in some places outnumbering the pines and oaks. And second, there was a lot less of the actual Roman Road visible than I was expecting. That’s not actually a complaint, however, because a Roman road that has been buckling and readjusting and subject to all sorts of weather for so many centuries is no longer a flat surface by any stretch. It’s usually very hard walking, but to see bits that are still in tact almost 2000 years after it was built is pretty special. Third, the grade was rarely steep, which was very welcome. Based on my calculations, there were several hundred meters of ascent on the Roman Road and it was barely perceptible.

    In some of the spots there were several milestones, and I remember reading that this was common because frequently a new emperor would come to put his own stamp on a particular road.

    The weather was perfect today — cool and sunny with an occasional breeze. I couldn’t ask for anything better.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
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    1
    Day 19

    Campo de Geres to Lobios (25 km)

    September 26, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Every Camino should have a day like this — no towns, no cars, and plenty of mountains, forests and rivers. These are the days that I find most conducive to just thinking things through. No distractions with beautiful scenery as the backdrop.

    Since it’s a stage with moderate distance and elevation, I decided I’d wait till after sunrise to leave. I knew that soon after leaving town I would come to the Reservoir and I wanted to see it in daylight. What I had forgotten to figure out, though, was when the sun would get above the mountains. I sat there for a while watching as the sunshine started to essentially fall down over the mountain. Total quiet.

    From the reservoir the path entered a forest in trail along side the river. The sound of the water was almost constant, and it was really beautiful. Past lots of Roman mile posts, in fact in one spot there were more than 20! After a couple of hours I emerged from the forest to see the Spain-Portugal border with the closed immigration checkpoints.

    The scenery changed dramatically, descending steeply through what was essentially a scrub forrest, nothing majestic like I had been walking through in Portugal. And then once again I was back in a nice forest walking through pines and oaks. I took a long break at a little sitting area next to an old Mill and an old bridge. Again, total quiet.

    So here I am back in Spain, and tomorrow I will sleep again in Portugal !    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    1
    11211
    Day 20

    Lobios to Castro Laboreiro (21 km)

    September 27, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Short in kilometers maybe, but the 800 m of elevation gain took me some time. It was a day full of surprises for me, because I really had no idea what to expect. Some friends wrote a day by day account when they walked about a year ago, but I only read their posts after I’ve done my walk. So it’s really one surprise after the next.

    I left around sunrise, and the first 10 or 11 km went from village to village on a mixture of roads and nice off-road trails, but then after a little place called A Pereira I emerged from one of those green tunnels (trees all around and moss-covered stone walls on both sides) and I was in a totally different landscape. I was on a big flat plain with rocky peaks on three sides. Amazing.

    Then back to walking by rivers, through some scrub forests, and then —surprise— a beautiful Roman bridge. It was there I took off my shoes, ate a cheese sandwich, and just wondered what this place was like when the Romans were here.

    The last 5K were a pretty steep ascent on a road in the sun. Guaranteed to wipe you out. But as always, a shower works a miracle. Around four, I decided to follow the path up to the castle. I’ve been to a lot of castles, I’ve climbed around a lot of castles, and this one was pretty much in ruins, but its position was one of the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. The views were pretty amazing. Built in the 10th century, it went back and forth between Spanish and Portuguese hands until finally Portugal won the last battle.

    This little town has three hotels, and there are lots of groups of walkers and “ramblers.” I’ve talked to some British and French people, quite the international crowd. Tomorrow back to Spain!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    1
    Day 21

    Castro Laboreiro to Cortegada (30 km)

    September 28, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    When I saw that there were 1300 m of descent on today’s stage I have to admit I groaned. That’s so hard on the knees. But off I went.

    It had been raining over night, so there were “water amenities“ every time the camino took me off road to those narrow rocky paths surrounded by rock walls. Sometimes it was deep mud, and sometimes it was standing water. Finding the best way over was not always easy. Even without pools of water or mud, going down on slippery rocks made for a very slow going. In fact this was probably my longest walking day yet. I just had to take my time.

    When I got to the Spanish border, I emerged onto a totally deserted but paved road. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t have been so thrilled, but to have a large chunk of descent on a road with no rocks and no mud to navigate was really great.

    The highlight of the day for me was walking through pine forests, especially when I was close to the Deva River,

    I wouldn’t say it was a five star day, but it was pleasant enough. The only real downer for me was that one of my hiking poles collapsed. I am getting some advice on how to fix it but I guess I’ll be fine with just one. People on the Camino forum are tremendously helpful, and are sending me YouTube videos of how to fix the problem. One Spanish friend suggested I take it to a car repair shop, on the theory that they will certainly have some thing to fix it with. Since the solution seems to lie with some strong adhesive, that does sound like a good suggestion, and I will probably try it tomorrow.

    I am in the town of Cortegada, which is probably the saddest town I’ve been in so far. Nothing going on, 80% of the houses seem to be falling down, but there is a beautifully restored balneario down on the river. I was surprised that it was built in 1937, as the Civil War was in full swing.

    Thankfully, Cortegada has the Casa de Conde, a small guesthouse that gives pilgrims a good price. No restaurants, but I can use their kitchen, so I am fine. Onward tomorrow!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    11
    Day 22

    Cortegada - San Xes - Ribadavia (19 km)

    September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    I woke up at about 6 am to a heavy rain. I decided to sleep a little more, but by 8:00, I had had breakfast and was putting on my rain gear. I kept repeating one of Joe’s favorite bits of advice — “A mal tiempo, buena cara.” Within about 10 minutes, the rain had turned into a little drizzle, and within 25 minutes it had stopped. No more rain except for a 20 minute downpour somewhere along the Minho River. Call me lucky.

    It was another walk with pleasant surprises. Wikiloc showed a steep descent down to the Minho, but it wasn’t steep at all. And, even with all the rain, the tracks were totally fine. No rocky paths turning into water channels. Once down at the river I had a really nice walk along the banks, and it lasted most of the way to Ribadavia, actually. A few petos de anima (alms box for the souls in purgatory), some pretty churches, and a lot of Minho River views.

    Ribadavia is well known for its preserved judería (Jewish quarter). But I had learned that there was also a pre-romanesque church, San Xes, just a few kilometers out of town. Since I got to the town early, I decided to walk out and visit the church before finding a place to stay. It wasn’t raining and I thought it made sense to take advantage. What a beautiful little church. Ninth century, some carvings on both sides of the door that look like the flight to Egypt (thanks AJ!!!), and a stone lattice window that was beautiful. I couldn’t get inside even after asking a couple of neighbors. But I was happy enough to sit outside and eat my snack and enjoy.

    I found a little Pension in the center of town, right in the plaza mayor actually. Turns out I was lucky to get the last room, which involves a three flight walk up.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    1
    Day 22

    Afternoon in Ribadavia

    September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Though my favorite Ribadavia attraction was San Xes, the 9 C church I saw on my way in, the rest of the day was fun too.

    First a good lunch — scallops and a goat cheese salad. Kind of a foodie place but it didn’t break the bank.

    Then a couple of hours wandering around. The judería (inhabited from 12C-16C) is nicely preserved. I assume the House of the Inquisition down the block had something to do with its demise, though. There are two Romanesque churches— both closed of course. The castle is only open in the morning, but it’s nice from the outside. Very fun time in the Plaza Mayor talking to one abuela whose 3 yo grandson was zooming around on a balance bike, and two dads helping their 10 yo daughters learn to roller skate. LOVE the plaza mayor in almost any Spanish place (except maybe Leon).

    One quick trip to a frutería— the first dried figs of the season arrived today so I got a few hundred grams. Batteries for my headlamp and chores are done.

    Early to bed for this peregrina.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    Day 23

    Ribadavia to Feas (29 km)

    September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    There was fog till about noon! It made things kind of ethereal. Today was almost all off-road, filled with rivers, vineyards, forests, and a killer ascent at the end. My GPS stopped recording, so I am not totally sure about the ascent, but the person whose tracks I followed recorded 900 m up and 500 down. That’s a lot for these old bones. But I’m still so grateful that even though I am definitely slowing down, I can still enjoy every day and relish the sensation that I’ve really given it my all.

    So many of these villages are in the process of depopulation. Most have some really nice fixed up houses, but those houses do not seem to be inhabited. I’m assuming they are summer homes, homes that once belonged to the great grandparents and that no one wants to live in year round. Then there are the totally falling down houses, and then there are some in between where the year-round residents live. Even in these tiny hamlets, the bread truck comes, the frozen food guy comes, the produce guy comes. Yesterday I coincided for about two hours with the Repsol truck. He was bringing those gas canisters. His horn blaring as he came through, people put out their empty canisters and he made the exchange. He was on the same route as I was apparently, so I had a honking horn symphony to listen to through four or five villages.

    I’m in a very nice Casa Rural, O Forno do Curro. There’s an old stone Forno/oven that was the place where all the villagers came to bake their bread. The only establishment with food is about a km down the road. I came in this afternoon on my way to the Casa Rural, just to confirm I would be eating dinner here. At that time about 30 men were at different tables, all playing dominoes. The bar owner, a woman, told me that the men come to play dominoes after lunch, while the wives were cleaning up and doing housework. But that the women would be in to play cards this evening. And sure enough they are here.

    Dinner is tomato and cheese salad, delicious seeded brown bread, eggs from the coop, and real french fries. Thankfulness overflowing.

    But as I was leaving the Night Shift dominoes guys arrived.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
    Day 24

    Feas to Soutelo de Montes (21 km)

    October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Another pretty short day with a fair amount of elevation (750 m by my GPS). Just a few small villages with most of the kms in pine forests or those Galician green tunnels with stone walls on either side. I’ve walked in countryside like this many times on this camino and others, but there are always breath-catching moments —like looking back down over Feas as the sun rose, or being in a green tunnel as bright sun dappled through.

    The only town on this stage is Beariz, where many pilgrims stay. Since it was only nine or 10 km from my starting point, I wanted to keep going. As I passed by the municipal building, I saw that the door was open. That was unusual for a Saturday, but I stuck my head in and said —hola? Turns out the mayor was in, catching up on work and being available to citizens who couldn’t come during the week. He was very happy to stamp my credential and to explain how important the Camino could be for his town. He has been mayor for 39 years, which is probably a record of some sort. He insisted on giving me a cultural review from the town, which I have carried with me and will look at this afternoon. But I don’t think it will come any further, because it weighs at least a pound.

    I am in a well-positioned but not very inspiring town for the night. There is a small hostel which is clean and right on the route.

    Three more days walking to Santiago. If the stars at home align right, I will continue to the ocean. But I am nothing if not flexible, and I may be home sooner.    Read more

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