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Patagonia
  • Ant Travels
Nov – Dec 2023

Patagonia

The boys are back on the bus again to travel from Santiago to Buenos Aires Read more
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  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    1

    24 South to Ushuaia

    November 30, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    We bid farewell ( with a few drinks ) to some of the crew and hope to catch them in BA but some are getting off for good!
    A restful night and shower- breakfast farewells and back to the truck - it’s not a bus we are repeatedly told !
    Sun is out but drizzly ! It’s a sad farewell to most of the Andes.
    The young gang are happy to be reunited before they all separate after Usharia before regrouping at BA- Christmas breaks out with music on the speakers and the decorations are up !
    It’s a quiet trip - a bit of zip trouble and some alpaca sec spices the journey .
    We skirt the Pacific which has emerged from the Archipelago area of Western Chile past old 1880s red rooted , rusted estancias and wrecked ships .
    We take a very wind blown ferry at Puerto Progreso!
    We have to wait for a ferry and we bump into a bikers convention / 30 bikes doing Alaska t T. del Fuego! British organised plus a few yanks ! That would something John would have liked!
    Thought I was cooking tonight but looks like someone is stepping in - so that be end of it !
    The afternoon is scrub all the way …..flat rolling plain!
    We miss the penguins and camp for the last time.
    It’s cold and windy
    It’s another younger generation takeover of cooking but so what ,it’s their bus and we are just guests    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    25 Ushuaia day 1

    November 30, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Well the last bush camp and packing that tent !
    We head for the border to return to Argentina and cross fairly easily !
    Another blue sky windy day . We skirt the Atlantic and the Tierra del Fuego archipelago .
    After a few hours driving g through lowland plains trees emerge as we approach our destination and the mountains reappear .Its a twisty road through the mountains that gets us to town,
    Ushuaia is the southerly most town in the world and it’s grown but still colourfully attractive if uninspired.
    The hostel looks good but there is work to do !
    Boat trip booked
    Bus to BA booked
    Trip to train at end of world tomorrow !
    Time to get some food and get a sleep in a bed !
    It’s a funky town - time capsule to old peoples, artisans but strangely no mention of the previous indigenous peoples in the stuff    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    1

    26 Usharia 2 and the train to the end

    December 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Our train is 930 . What time do we need to wake up ? What’s the plan ? Well we discussed it last night over Amrits vodka , red wine and deformed pizza .
    Yes it’s an earlier start than planned it’s 630!
    After breakfast at 8 we catch a cab to the train station just out of town to join El tren del fin del mondo! It’s a selection of small trains that take people on the old route to a penal colony . There is a mid day point to view waterfalls and be offered the photo that was taken with some convicts at the train station’s entrance . The train goes just into the national park Tierra del Fuego and after a short journey down the valley we are dropped off . There is a short walk down to the coast and the Beagle Channel and the post office at the end of the world . There are hoards of folk queuing to send postcards to friends!
    There are some fantastic vistas across the channel dotted with islands and backed by the snow capped mountains.
    We opt for a walk of 7 k along the coast to enlarge the views and see the park . The sun shines all is good .
    A walk back to ensure we catch the last train at 4pm
    Back in town for beer , bank and bad news for Forest! Bah - it was a good day !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    27 Boat ,Beagle Channel and penguins

    December 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After a few beers we pop in the Irish pub to say farewell to one of the good guys who is leaving tonight but we hadn’t been told of the pub as we’re still the odd couple and outsiders and not the young guns and originals ! This tour attracts an odd selection of folk but who cares ?
    At the hostel I have a disturbing conversation from one of the originals / older chap who has been isolated ! He’s pretty down and going to spend the next five days on the bus with four women - not something he’s looking forward to !
    In the morning we discover that the young original gang have had an argument about wine ! Weird !

    Back In the normal world we take the 9am cruise down the channel to see the penguins!
    It’s actually more than just the odd butler-like birds as there are Seagulls , cormorants, sea lions , and the odd albatross.
    We pass the Faro / lighthouse and Gable island in mid channel which was one of the first old estancias due to fertile sandy glacial soil . It’s a six hour round trip down the Glaciated passage of the Beagle channel joining Pacific with Atlantic .
    The highlight is Isla Martillo or Hammer island home of the penguins including today one king penguin! Another isolated guy !
    The weather has been good again - not too much of anything !
    Back in town it’s a quiet Sunday afternoon looking for some bar , some wi fi to kill the time pre this evenings vigil …3am !!!    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    28 Heading North to BA

    December 3, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    A good meal of the local king crab - excellent !
    Home to hostel for three hour wait ! Some wine and a local football game -Racing - to watch on someone’s computer plus some highlights of Forest’ games.
    It’s a late night or rather an early morning bus trip at 3am.
    We have done our last trip on the truck and last camp after we heard the leader sell the next five days of wild camping through pretty dull landscape and no sights promised on a 5am start and 5pm finish!
    We have to do a final crossing into Chile and then it’s all Argentina on the way north .
    We catch the bus dawn by the docks and awaken for customs at 730, retracing our previous route from the truck and crossing Puerto Progreso . Unfortunately a delay in the ferry crossing of over an hour before we can get back to another border crossing and eventually Rio Gallegos.
    We make the bus and then await the next …a full dull day so sone more from yesterday !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    1

    29 Bus day to Peurto Madryn

    December 4, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The bus arrived last night on time at 6 we head north for the night hopefully changing buses at 3am
    Somewhere in the middle of the night the bus stops in some town that’s big on the Pope and has lots of street art.( Santa Cruz?)
    It’s an evening after a long dull day of travel however the scenery is as promised flat scrub pampas land only punctuated by the odd estancia rooof coloured red/ orange or green. A lot of nothingness.
    To complete the surreal feeling to the bus trip , there is an odd movie being shown -The Outlaws film with Piers Brosnam in Spanish . It’s a shoot up heist happy couple movie I think !
    The odd llama or guanaco in groups stalk the terrain.
    Fantastic sunset and great sunrise - as we are still on the bus !
    Third bus trip 530am.
    Puerto Madryn by Lunchtime !
    Slow coastalroad or over the hills and more slow roads !

    And it’s warm !
    We pass the Trelew dinosaur park , unfortunately it’s closed for remodelling . A model of the Titanosaur stands outside - 8 metres high. Close enough !
    Hostel sorted , now to sort whale watching in town
    It’s hot here !
    Whale watch on tomorrow -anxiety dissipating!
    Fish tonight !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    30 Puerto Madryn hopefully Whales

    December 6, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Early start to catch bus out to Porta Piramides for whales after furtive and abortive taxi investigation .630 and all is well and we arrive at park early for our watch !
    It’s windy here but we are on - and down to the boat onto the beach and it’s off to see some whales . It’s difficult but we get close to see whale back on surface and mother and baby swimming off flapping its tail. We unfortunately abort early as port is closing due to excessive wind ! We also catch a solitary sea lion wandering around . Well it is the end of the season here for whale watching ! It’s tough on a windy choppy sea ! Close enough !
    We chill before the 630 bus to BA and end of road!
    I await the pro shots from the camera man on board ! Later on Facebook !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    2

    32 Buenos A

    December 7, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well the station is central but the hostel is probably a mile away - maybe the underground ? Nope it’s a hike and it’s hot ! We check in but traffic heavy so about 5pm time for beer and steak !
    We beer and dine ! A bit early for locals ! A non. tourist streak restaurant and red wine ! We are early ! Home to bed !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    2

    31 En route to BA

    December 7, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Forest get thrashed 5-0 , pretty bleak sitting listening to commentary in a bus terminal !The bus arrives dead on time - very efficient ! Comfortable bus too ! BA bound .
    Quiet bus and scenery pretty dull scrub
    We stop - it’s the national guard ! Passport check ! Odd but simple !
    A stop at a run down restaurant cum bus stop breaks the journey at 830pm.
    Off again and now dark I try to sleep .
    At midnight we stop apparently on the middle of nowhere but lights are flashing and traffic is moving on the other side of the road . We eventually move past a huge crash between a truck carting bottles and a truck carrying crates - it’s all over the road !
    We continue . Sleep . Another town .Another bumpy road.
    4 am and it’s the bright lights of Bahia Blanca. We are invited to get off for 30 minutes. No fruit in sight but I try to download the photos of yesterday from the boat photographer . So what will I do ???
    8am Tres Arroyos - getting closer and landscape is pleasant grassland and woods and plenty of beef cattle!
    Approaching BA about 3pm and it’s been a long last leg !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    1

    33 BA Aires

    December 8, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    So a good hostel and a good meal and a good nights sleep . The sun is shining and it’s time to wander .
    Well welcome to the world Poppy!

    A walk around the town or a least a rectangle ! East first to plaza de mayo and the orange congress building then south through the plaza de las Armas and its curious statues/ cartoon characters!. The city has a feeling similar to Barcelona but without the closeness to the sea .
    We wander through the Telma area also with its national iconic cartoon character Milfalda and with chocolate shop after chocolate shop!
    The bustling San Telmo market is selling everything !
    Further in there’s the smallest house in town and the El Zanjon museum caves .
    Further south it’s La Boca territory and football colours everywhere on the houses that are overwhelmed by the huge football ground of Boca Juniors .
    The Caminito area is a mass of coloured houses, statues of the Pope and Maradona and other Argentinian football hero’s. Supposedly the area is the alley mentioned in the Tango song but it’s actually 1950s development over previous disused railway lines and dumps by a local artist who painted port life with vibrant colours!
    Tango dancers and restaurant bars everywhere . All colours and sounds everywhere. It’s quite a place!
    A quiet beer and we witness the tango dancers do their thing outside the bar - without music oddly!
    Walking back north we visit the pasaje Lanin which is a relatively recent redesign of houses with mosaics - stripes and squiggles and primary colours cover the facades.

    Heading back past we pass the NY Central station like Plaza Constitution train station.
    Heading home we pass Eva Perons face on the ministry of public works building in the middle of July 9 Avenue.
    A good hike , time to buy some get in the house presents and some fruit !
    The gothic like building Palacio Barolo looms over the street - it supposed to be modelled on Dante’s Divine comedy ! 22 floors of hell heaven and purgatory to get to top and a good view! Maybe a night time view ?
    An excellent sunny days walk - tonight another restaurant hunt but since everyone eats late we should be able to find something !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    36 BA 4 Argentina’s big day

    December 9, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Well we are right in the middle of the presidential inauguration! RIGHT in the middle !
    It’s a quiet Sunday morning and a stroll down to San Telmo and the antique, arts and crafts markets! It’s busy but not frantic as we wander around the art area and bump into the other cartoon statues.
    It’s a short walk over to the ecological area and Lagunas, passing the odd fountain of Fuente de las Nereidas. Ahead of her time it says - the men seem to having a hard time with the horses !
    Wandering back around Midday past the Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo it’s all happening as up the other end old Javier Milei is being sworn in as President ! It’s all going mad ! Thousands line the avenue and more thousands are in front of the Congress at the other end ! It’s all Argentinian flags , football shorts , presidential Lions , Milei shirts , marching bands , buzz saw wielding fans ! I was thinking we were unlucky not to get to be able to get to a. football game but this is much more ! Very South American ! It’s a first crazy batshit crazy weird episode of the tour !
    The Lion gives his speech and then the mental crowds disperse for who knows what next ! Do you think his hair is always like that ? Or did he give it an extra fluffy wash ? Sideburns too ! Who knows what next !
    We happen to find a bar on the corner of the Congress square for a drink and to just take in the atmosphere amid the heavy police presence and all the noise and crowds ! My pig Spanish manages to ask for a large bottle of cold beer but asking for two glasses to drink out of …. That’s difficult!
    We maybe stuck here for a while as we simply cannot cross the road as the barricades go on forever!

    https://www.theguardian.com/world/2023/dec/10/j…

    Eventually home for a rest pre seeking out a place to eat ! And later a rooftop visit after our purgatory tour !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    35 BA 3 Tango plus!

    December 9, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It’s a quiet evening pre tango night but the presidential inauguration happens tomorrow and the parade is straight down our avenue towards the Congress building and barricades are going up !

    The night - it had to be done and experienced - tango !
    Thankfully we were kept away from the stage and making fools of ourselves .
    A good night , with good food , plentiful wine and some weird dancing !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    34 Buenos BA 2

    December 9, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Well it could have been a quiet night after dinner ! Being a bank holiday it was quiet out last night and with late dining the norm here we had a restaurant to ourselves ! It was so easy to order!
    The tower by night is booked tonight !
    The opera is full on across the street .
    Sunday night and the Palacio Barolo experience is booked which means a trip to hell, purgatory and hopefully heaven !
    Oh another Forest game to endure before then.
    It’s just 10am and the karaoke hasn’t really started and the red wine is finished ! But the party people are appearing - bedtime!

    Lots of political posters left over from election and bleak news ! https://www.theguardian.com/world/2023/dec/09/i…

    Oh yes this place has a lot of hairdressers - weird !

    A walk north this time !
    Off to the Congress building and hopeful of bc a croissant at the art deco El Molino but it’s closed and gated ! Weird!
    A wander down to the theatre turned huge bookshop El Ateno! Amazing place ! We hike down to the Cemetery La Recoleta and wander around the ornate and grandiose tombs of the famous dead !
    The Peron tomb is crowded - natch!
    The church next door is flush with shrines and stations !
    Over to the park and the arty Floralis Generica !
    There is a hike of 2km out of town actually past the airport where there’s a really weird sight but I decide against it despite the atlas obscura recommendation. Tierra Santa ( the Holy Land) is for the religious nut - Bible stories are “brought to life in a glorious cartoon kitsch theme park “? Really! go read ! A walk too far !

    Check out this wondrous find from Atlas Obscura: Tierra Santa https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/9674

    Back on the straight and narrow we head up the main drag to the Obelisk neatly decorated for Xmas !
    A viewing of the majestic Colon theatre is put off by huge queues

    A beer in our local Celta bar to listen to the football or just drink beers ?

    Forest draw - better!

    Tonight it’s tango time - oh god!    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia

    37 BA 5 Palacio Barolo

    December 10, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    It did quieten down a bit out on the street and it’s all been cleaned up - bit like post fastnacht experience !
    Our Pub again for a beer in three steps , restaurant a success and too much food and wine surprise issue !

    Palacio Barolo , once the tallest building in the city was built in the 1920s and might have housed Dante’s ashes but …it didn’t .
    It’s 22 floors model the 22 stanzas of the Divine Comedy.
    The lobby has monster statues and nine vaulted archways , Masonic symbols and antiquated elevators!
    We do the three stages by elevator and then …,
    The highest level is heaven and has a great view of the city . 100 further steps takes you to the lighthouse , which shines over the city .
    An experience again    Read more

  • Ant TravelsAnt TravelsPatagonia
    2

    38 BA 6 The End

    December 11, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Another sunny day and we are officially off the Truck not a bus tour!
    Some wandering , thinking and shopping .
    So shopping was ultimately successful once I got away from tourist end of town and into shopping areas .
    It’s bloody hot again today so walking and seeing things a tad tough unless in the shade . Hostel persons tip suggested “since I was close” to try Palermo Hollywood area for restaurants , bars and graffiti art on the walls !
    Hmm ! I did have to try the beer(s) to cool down and then I wandered around the streets - all very impressive and colourful . A final tourist thing.

    I think we will miss the introduction speech and farewell session - breakfast will suffice ! The tour leader hid a remarkable amount of back story at our inauguration/ welcome .
    A quiet meal and a few drinks will suffice - a few are off to the Tango tonight so they will be late and probably oiled.    Read more

    Trip end
    December 12, 2023
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