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Patagonia
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Patagonia

The boys are back on the bus again to travel from Santiago to Buenos Aires Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 6, 2023
    Ant TravelsPatagoniaAnt Travels

    Getting ready - a week to go !

    October 31, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    So why ? And where?

    The name Patagonia comes from the word patagón. Magellan used this term in 1520 to describe the native tribes of the region, whom his expedition thought to be giants.

     Patagonia is a geographical region that encompasses the southern end of South America, governed by Argentina and Chile. The region comprises the southern section of the Andes Mountains with lakes, fjords, temperate rainforests, and glaciers in the west and deserts, tablelands and steppes to the east. Patagonia is bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west, the Atlantic Ocean to the east, and many bodies of water that connect them, such as the Strait of Magellan, the Beagle Channel, and the Drake Passage to the south.    Read more

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    How many times can you pack?

    November 3, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Packing ! Unpack repack re choose ! Weather on W walk unpredictable but walk fantastic ! I’ve re-read the books !

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    1

    Day one Santiago

    November 7, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well it was an uneventful flight , early arrival with great views of the moutains / cordillera on one side and coast / arid scrub on the other side coming into Santiago! Hostel found easily and we are off on tour !
    A funicular train up to lofty San Christobal hill and some impressive views of the city and the snow covered hills in the far distance !
    Down the hill and a well earned lunch and beer before we join a walking tour of the city ! Starting at the Bellas Artes museum , closed due to budget issues , we strangely meet another Oasis traveller adding to the two we bumped into at the hostel and they’re not too young !
    It’s a free tour but with a normal tip ! takes us to some interesting places - street art in Belles Artes.
    The plaza des Armes is the old city square and has numerous impressive buildings and bronze plates on the street tell the story of the city , close to the river , irrigation help from the Incas and some brightly painted streets .
    The plaza de la constitucion
    is busy with tourists , police and army as we have a visiting president who gets a weirdly rousing shout out from the ranked soldiers ! It’s actually the old mint of Santiago and called Moneda . Salvador Allende looks over all until his death in 73 and the start of the other guy and the troubles ! Moneda and New York is the financial district of the city .
    Up the street we reach the GAM or cultural centre in Lastaria which was appropriated by the Pinochet gang and its huge tower which for a long time a symbol of the regime now stands empty but the arts centre thrives !
    Our final stop on the tour just around the corner is an area full of restaurants , bars and music - somewhere to seek out later !
    The day ends with a climb up to the old Spanish fort on San Lucía hill , whose height and buildings were seemingly increased in height by the detritus from the canalised river . It actually has a clearer view of the city and the snow capped mountains .
    And that apart from that we’re done and some food and beer will do us -only six miles but tired after a long day !    Read more

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    Day 2 Valparaiso

    November 8, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    So sleep still a little disturbed but we have good breakfast natter with Chris and Mark fellow travellers !
    Then we negotiate both tube and bus and we’re off to the coast for the day!
    It’s a quiet journey to Valparaiso through the coastal mountains , scrub , vineyards and occasional saguaro cactus stumps !
    It’s an amazing blue sky day and we negotiate the trolly bus downtown to Plaza Sotomayor.
    We overshoot as the bus driver drives like a demon and the doors slam shut like a trap !

    Valparaíso is a port city on Chile’s coast. It's known for its steep funiculars and colourful, clifftop homes and art murals and graffiti
    We visit the port fish market and some churches before reaching the square with its monument to the fallen , city centre offices and art deco buildings .
    It’s then up the 1902 funicular railway to reach a curiously green supposedly Yugoslavian walk and art nouveau folly-esque Baburizza palace !

    Up now in the Cerro Alegre region it’s mural after mural in an area that has echoes of San Francisco hills, streets and houses and also the Swiss French Jura region with their corrugated walls ! It’s all colour and steps and buildings and murals and art ! It’s really very impressive and you can wander around for hours which is what we do!

    A brief beer and we head home for a good meal and beer before a night cap or two and an education of Pisco drink ! Is it Peruvian or Chilean? We try and get the answer from the stylish barman in ch-pe libre bar of the independent nation state of both countries ! It’s scenes from Cocktail but not Tom Cruise but Venezuelan finest fast talking bar man ! We are relieved and it’s been a good day ! Other videos on Facebook !    Read more

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    Day 3 Santiago and the start

    November 9, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another walk and then the 6pm tour introduction to OO ! It’s not quite Dragoman!

    Another walking tour but this time it’s the alternative non business area taking in some old embassies , murals depicting the attempts to change the constitution and a traditional inn, the posada del Corregidor - a haunt of Neruda !
    Crossing the river is like entering a different city as it was original area for the poor folk and now it’s embraced all the migrants - a strong Palestinian area, South Koreans and others from South America ! The outdoor
    Flea market leads to vegetable and meat and fish markets such as la vega chica !
    We learn about the mapuche , the original people I think ! There are hundreds of small food stalls and including their version of cottage pie - Chilean ‘corn pie’, or pastel de choclo, spiced beef mince is topped with a fluffy layer of smashed sweetcorn and it also includes garlic , spices , eggs and other stuff ! Tempted by the very sweet drink called Mote con huesillo! We are treated a sopaipillas which is type of corn bread which is best eaten with spicy chilli sauce . The weird seaweed on sale appears to be an alternative to vegetables and milk !
    We finish with obligatory cemetery visit which all mod cons , temples , multi story flats and rows of filing cabinets ! It’s odd and with a lot of odd customs and shrines to the sainted and famous !

    The evening meeting went well and it seems a happy camp and good mix - they appear to drink and have fun so looking good !
    Off on the road tomorrow at 8am heading south for bush camp !    Read more

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    Day 4 (bus day 1 ) On the road to Pucon

    November 9, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    So we’re up early after last nights intro and breakfast in hostel and then onto the bus !
    There’s a good mix of youth and experience and it’s predominantly Brit with two Canadians , two yanks and two Aussies and a full bus of 24!
    We swop stories of trips we’ve done and also hear how the legs from Cartagena to here went ! (The visit to the active silver mine sounds distinctively dangerous ! Providing gifts to independent miners ( dynamite stick???) for access whilst there was no real support or safety checks).. Five will be doing the complete gig finishing at Manaus after Xmas !
    We awake to find WhatsApp messages telling us that some of the party were robbed in a club last night - money stolen and police useless!
    On the road for a day but it’s raining and it continues all day. It’s a day to discover everyone on the bus .. chatting , reading , sleeping, some watching movies !
    It’s a day to get used to things-
    Stops for loo and lunch .
    The bus is different from before with just us inside and driver Kev and leader Claire upfront and below . Eight at front and the rest sitting around the edges , not looking out windows ! We’re 21 as three catching up after sorting things out with police,
    Not much see apart from rain and wide rivers and vineyards.
    We eventually find a
    Campsite and not a roadside as the weather needs us to find some cover!
    Arrival drill is similar - tents more circular bivouacs are put up , the cook team starts the meal prep. We find the owner and he provides some beer.
    A meal of rice and tomato type vegetable melange .
    After chat and beer and music trivia it’s bed time and it’s quit til 12 when the Friday night disco starts up and lasts til 530 am! Not the most restful night and we’re up for breakfast at 7 and a depart at 730 after all stowed away . A wet full dull day    Read more

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    5 Off again to Pucan and volcano

    November 11, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    It’s wet again but we are on bus for the day !
    It’s a wet day looking at rivers and mountains and rain !
    We eventually reach Pucon and plan ahead for things to do ! The volcano is off as it’s too tuff and also closed because of possible tremors !
    We wander round town to get some gear !
    Down to the lake to catch the views of the volcano from the black beach sand !
    It’s windy and then wet and windy and snow and sleet !
    It’s a beer in the pub and the second tastes of thyme but it’s actually MJ , skank ! Hic!
    Dinner in town and we don’t have to camp tonight it’s hostel time!    Read more

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    6 Pucon and El Cani lake walk

    November 12, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    A good nights sleep back in the hostel and we’re up early to negotiate the bus system .
    We did find it yesterday but the location of the bus stop is still open to some confusion !The shop next door offers coffee but I discover there’s not much coffee in it ! And that’s breakfast !
    We wander around and eventually find the mini bus stop and we’re off cross country to to the machupe reserve of El Cani which offers us a 7 mile walk up a very steep hill through forests for a great view of the volcanoes we hope !
    As we start we are happy to see the Sun on the volcano and the sky is blue!
    We stride out after being told the snow is on the top and we might be unable to get to the top! It’s chilly but not raining !
    We pass the halfway hut with a small fire inside . Then it’s through the woods and we’re walking through snow !
    Fantastic views of lakes of las Totoras and Negra and strangely huge monkey puzzle trees! Also some strange orange barked trees which Chilean Myrtle I learn !
    The lake views are impressive but the snow now is too thick for a final walk to top for the ( Informed later that the top was in the mist anyway ! )
    A good day walking from 830 to 4pm and 14 miles but the 7 up were tough! The sun is out and it’s back to town for some libation !    Read more

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    7 Bariloche road day

    November 12, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    A day on road and we cross into Argentina ! It was a quiet night for some of us, great views of the volcano and a good bed - the kids were out with the karaoke til 3am . It’s a sunny day driving the tree lined valleys with mountains up there covered in cloud or snow . It’s a quieter bus as a consequence of sleepers or readers or music. We wait for the flavour of border crossing inspection as we travel up in scenery reminiscent of the Swiss alps . Oh by the way the big yellow bus is called SpongeBob (SquarePants )!
    Getting out of Chile takes an hour, thirty minutes to Argentina and one hour customs and no investigation of baggage! There’s a great view of Lanin volcano covered in snow.
    Now over the Andes we’re in a central plain covered by monkey puzzle trees again and flanked by snow capped peaks. We descend to upland grassland and warmer temps!
    We take Lunch on the run, food shopping on the journey and head to camp at Bariloche - it’s near town and we’re there for three nights. We’re down then up and we’re in their Lake District but it’s much larger , greener , wetter then drier.
    The camp is out of town - it’s cold and could get colder and wetter and windy ! Could be an interesting night !    Read more

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    8 Bariloche lake and Cerro Campanario

    November 14, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Well that was some night ! Late night food and then very cold night - sleep not very good ! F-cold!
    I was breakfast rep today and glad to get up at 720! I was awake ! Breakfast coffee much needed!
    Chaotic trip to town via bus as we couldn’t get voucher and nice lady paid for us for free!
    Andy luckily found English speaker on bus who gave us lowdown on town !
    In town it’s find a shop that sells warm kit that is needed as we’re only a third way down Patagonia!
    Money exchange process is odd , find strange man on street , obtain rate 8500 per 100dollars US as long as it’s a blue striped 100 bill ! He takes us to a liquor shop off Main Street to complete the deal out of sight of any you know who ! Bank rate about 5000!
    We now have wads due to 150percent inflation !
    Great view from town across the huge lake - like Canada lakes on steroids here in their Lake District !
    We see the sights both cathedral and city hall !
    The wind is up but sun still out there !
    After a successful shop for gear to aid sleep and walking we have a huge sandwich lunch - enough for three meals and a very passable Malbec for under fiver!
    Afternoon romp up hill via ski lift at cerro campanario! It’s majestic and the sun is out to enable a 360 view of the area , mountains and lakes ! It’s epic!
    Home for a quiet sunny afternoon and rumour is there’s a beer festival tonight somewhere close ! No festival but a nice porter and amber ale and then a swifter in the local across the road, and a good day and a warmer night !    Read more

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    9 Bariloche Circuito Chico and Llao Llao

    November 15, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    After a better night’s sleep - it was a warmer night - and I had bought another sleeping bag too! The night did have some excitement as Andy had a nightmare ! Awake for five or so minutes , he raved about how I was telling him to get out of the tent , couldn’t find the door or his shoes and supposedly I was particularly concerned about people who were stealing things from the tent ! Most odd - he had no recollection of the event ! It brought back memories of his spiders on the wall incident from our New York trip of 78!
    Andrew slept well - I was awake for about half an hour wondering what the hell that was all about ! I guess he was tired!

    Breakfast sorted we head out to do the circuito chico , a heavily forested nature park with treks ! We are warned that some of it is closed due the severe weather ! Confused as it’s slightly windy we just did it with sun shining , some drizzle and some wind ! Odd!
    We did 10 miles of great views of huge trees - a mixture of myrtle (Arrayanes ) and conifers , pines , firs , cedars and Southern beech !
    There are great views of Mirador Lago Moreno and the snow capped mountains but the mist is coming in slowly. We make it to the top of Llao Llao for some windy views !
    There are some sights on the woodland walk of the national flower , the ceibo. Also the
    occasional bird with a red beak who blocks our path!

    The promised rain hasn’t arrived and it’s another sunny day !

    Back at the ranch two of the ladies have been ill and it’s covid - the big brother conspiracy theory is rife - they’re off the bus for five days ! We all take precautions !

    The bar at the end of the street beckons and we sample    Read more

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    10 Back to Chile and Futaleufu

    November 16, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Another early start and a long drive back to Chile , another border customs check before we reach our camp !
    Last night was better apart
    from Andy’s hunt the sleeping bag opening ordeal at 2am!
    One more unwell and they will catch up later!
    I have perfected one cup porridge on the stove now just have to source marmalade!

    Over the heavily wooded hills again and up and down all morning. We slowly pass through the Andes foothills complete with rivers and waterfalls before reaching the lower plains scrubland and sunshine .
    The day is turning and mucho rain later.
    The views are good whilst the weather is good .
    A detour takes us through the green green valleys on New Wales not that you would notice other than a tattered Welsh flag on a gatepost !
    The blue skies disappear and the rain is on big time - it’s just like Wales!
    We arrive at the town , a one horse town which is big on white water rafting !
    We take the option of all bunking down in the Quinta, the small hut with a fire !
    We quickly depart to the pub the Madero!
    Good beers - stout and amber !    Read more

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    11 - what next , where next ?

    November 16, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Well the falling down drinks were good but walking back in the rain and dark was not so good! As the camp ground was amphibious most of us bedded in the hut with a dwindling fire. Top tip- don’t put your bed next to the door and wind ! A mixed night !
    The morning was still a tad damp - even the rafting appears to be off as the water is too high !
    Maybe a walk to pass the time ? We trek down the road with the weather closing in and improving and then raining hard! 6k and then back as we don’t find the bridge that would have taken us back on the other side of the river ! Great scenery but probably best seen in the dry !
    A dog adopts us and keeps us company for almost 4k before a friend of the dog’s owner offers the dog a lift home ! Lucky dog!
    Back in town it’s still pretty quiet but coffee stop keeps us dry for a while !
    Back to the hut to dry out and maybe an early dinner    Read more

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    12 Radio silence on road to Coyhaique

    November 18, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We had a quieter earlier night as we’re up at 6am for a road trip and hoping we are luckier with the weather ! Last nights rainbow was not the promise of gold we hoped for - more bad weather!
    I was warm last night but couldn’t get to sleep really and the 5am call came quickly.
    It’s windy and we are told we
    Have a lot of miles to do .
    The weather isn’t good ahead and proposed trip to the hanging glacier isn’t going to happen as apart from work on the park we won’t be able to see it in the low mist!
    We are into the mountains and waterfalls and rivers and some dismal weather conditions! We pass by huge lago Yeltcho and through the Macizo Nevada.
    Finally we reach a proper road and the jumps and bounces give way to a smooth ride- it’s only 10am with more to go !
    As an aside we did manage to
    Book the Perito Moreno Glacier and Boat Safari for next week!
    It’s Saturday and the truck is
    Quiet and relatively empty - four covid isolating and three others who are missing camping and will rejoin us later after our frolics !
    We are back on the zig zag route up the mountain and into the snow . Impressive views and cold air in the Queulat national park as we travel down the main route Caretteror Austral.
    We finally arrive at 6 and we are dining in town and not wild camping but camping in a camp site and big news … it’s warm and not raining !!!!yippee    Read more

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    13 Break for the Argentina border again

    November 19, 2023 in Chile

    After a quiet dry night in town we discover again that local disco is located on the outskirts of town and people rev their cars to leave said disco! Otherwise a good night as it’s dry.
    We are embroiled in absent members WhatsApp tirade and now someone has lost a power pack .
    It’s an early start but we’re late so we may camp this side of border as the road is pretty tortuous and there’s a lot of washboard type going up and also going down!
    So the truck and big brother dynamics after two weeks: there are the originals with one or two issues! There are the newbies - us plus three ; then there is the-young guns vs old hands; also a few individuals who try to co exist wisely . There two married couple . Two this tour joined couples. And us ? We are definitely the odd couple with quirks and bickering! With three weeks left for us but some of the originals are going further so local irritations will grow - watch this space!
    We pass through the comuna de Rio Ibanez , a road through the mountains , scree one side and snow capped mountains the next - spectacular scenery even better in the sunshine, still tracking the Austral road.
    We eventually bottom out in the classic glaciated U shaped Valley and river .
    The big lake Lago
    General Carerra bordering Patagonia national park appears to go on forever as we hug it’s shoreline.
    As we were late setting off our plan now is to camp this side and cross tomorrow as are unlikely to make it to Chile Chico crossing tonight .
    Food to be hidden ?    Read more

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    14 And now the border drive south

    November 20, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    Well an interesting night . Great meal at the bush camp followed by an early night as we are to be up early and the rain is approaching. Bedding down is easy and I even get read my kindle.
    1am and the world is ending ! Big Winds on our lakeside ledge ! Tent is blowing in and buffeting badly . We survive but then there is talk and shouting outside and very strange yelps and it’s not another disco . In the morning we discover that a coyote came to visit and people were shining torches and was a bit too close!
    Laguna verde is an early stop
    as we contemplate the time taken to get through customs at los Antiguos
    Okay paperwork was going well and no search and the a missing form / 2 hrs.
    On the road supermarcado shop and marmalade or as close as it comes ! We press on and Winnie the Pooh would be happy as a bloody windy day under the blue sky and sun !
    Argentina re-election. Results - chain saw man wins by a good margin/ slice ? Maybe the 150percent inflation will be affected . The cost of goods here is so much cheaper than Chile!
    Travelling across the bleak flatlands keeps the truck wobbling but we still have sunshine.
    Off-road for a while and a special visit to Cueva de las manos , prehistoric paintings on the side walls of a verdant river rift valley from 9000 to 13000bc . Four galleries of over 800 paintings and by the Tondense people - all but a few are left hands painted by right handed! It was discovered in 72 ! It’s a great 2km walk down the side of the valley showing also animals esp. guanacos , hunts, calendars and coincidentally one hand with six fingers !!!! My ancestors ?
    The day is still very sunny with the wind - a 70k trek now to find a bush camp.
    No camp - too windy ! Hostel !    Read more

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    15 Onto El Chalten

    November 21, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    A restful night after some bartering with hostel owner over room availability we all manage to get a bed . Semi restful sleep as 5am cock crow was pretty insistent ! Aghhh on other matters !
    The route south is over some bleak semi arid flat plain and the wind continues to blow us about - it’s about 400km today!!
    Lago Cardiel’s azure blue lake breaks the blasted flatlands landscape . From here it’s all alti-plato and big views of big scenery and big sky with big clouds. The is part paved and part washboard and I think I’m sitting on the rear axel/ wheels .
    It’s a straight road south towards Mount Fitz Roy one of the impressive mountains on the world soaring granite towers rise up from the flat step. Described more as a ziggurat than a mountain and shouldered by a group of spires and more pillow like clouds.3405m high !
    Camping tonight fingers crossed . Sleep well Hugh see you soon !    Read more

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    16 Big mountain Big walk Fitz Roy

    November 22, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    A good nights sleep with no wind and almost warm !
    A good morning call with Hugh and he’s good !
    A short hike to the entrance and we’re off into the park to attempt the 10km walk up to the Laguna de los Tres!
    It’s a beautiful blue sky day and the sun is shining !
    Well …. It was a bloody long way supposedly 20 km but my watch counting steps tells me the day was over 20miles! This the result of small steps especially on the last 2km which was up a steep vertical slope!
    The first part is a short climb then a 4- 6 km flat bit with emerging views of Fitz Roy as the cloud passes by it ! The final part of the climb is a beast supposedly 2km but far worse and longer !
    We complete the walk -it took 8 hrs ! My thighs are stiff ! It was tougher probably because it’s longer than Kilimanjaro! That was tough as oxygen was low but this is steeper and more straight up !
    So I have a theory which is a bit Father Ted ….mountains are big when they are far away but mountains are also big when you get nearer ! Mountains are also best viewed from a distance - especially if there is a chance to walk closer to said mountain !
    At times mount FitzRoy is partly hidden but eventually the ziggurat appears ! Colossal!
    On the way back we pass the Lagunas and it’s downhill
    It’s another Redgrave moment ! 8 hrs ! Up hill !
    A grand day out and my legs will feel it in two days !    Read more

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    17 South to El Calafate

    November 23, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Not a bad night despite the stiffness and cramps in legs after the hike!
    Bus drive for the morning and a last photo of the big one Fitz Roy!
    We skirt the large lakes of Viedma and Argentino.
    On the trip we pass by one of the supposed places Butch Cassidy stopped , hotel de campo la leona.
    A thanksgiving chat with Alan is uplifting.
    A thanksgiving chat follows with another which highlights the alternative view of the event .
    It’s lunch in the city after a detour to see the harbour front :NOT
    Packing for the W walk precedes the Glacier boat ride tomorrow !
    We regroup over a snack and beer as town is touristy !
    Atlas Obscura to the rescue :
    Just outside town sits the Glaciarium, a modern glacier interpretation center that’s also home to the world’s only bar made entirely of glacial ice.! It’s a museum of ice and glaciers and then two free drinks - vodka , whisky local hooch . It saves the day

    .    Read more

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    18 Perito Moreno Glacier !

    November 23, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    The hostel is great abd a great sleep in to - up at 8 for bus trip to Perito Moreno Glacier with Boat trip . Sun shining ! Blue sky ! Fantastic day ahead !

    We make a few stops on the hour trip to glacier to view from afar. The landscape is very arid here on the steppe . Calafate bushes carry blue berries that are used as local liquor.The Yellow flower bush is used as medicine for a bad chest

    Adiabatic and katabatic wind processes operate over the Andes . So obviously wet and cold on mountains but moisture disappears on this side and at the glacier we are
    closer to the Pacific Ocean - here the dry winds leave an arid steppe desert type landscape all the way to east coast
    Nortris or coccineum or fire bush with red flowers
    provide some colour and are everywhere

    We arrive ! Amazing !
    The multi walkways allow us to view the left side of glacier , Brazo Rico , where the lake is milky flour grey rock coloured and the glacier is 60 to 120m to uneven bottom. The face is about 70 m high .
    There is the point where the ice bridge and tunnel would be but it hasn’t been formed and fallen since 2018 so it’s just a snout !
    From time to time huge
    chunks of ice fall from the top with a loud crack and accompanying huge splash .
    On the right side is the canal de tempanos where the glacier is 160 m and grounded and the lake is a light azure blue !

    The boat cruise takes us even closer to the glacier and the blue crevasses and seracs ! It’s like a cathedral with sunlit blue windows !
    In the distance we can see the lucky hundred or so who have bought a ticket to climb on the moraine and hike up part of the glacier !
    A fantastic day of awesome glacier and beautiful blue sky weather !
    And another restful night in the hostel !
    Photo choice today is a little difficult !    Read more

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    19 To Chile and W Walk

    November 25, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    A good nights sleep , great clouds last night too ! Weather looking good for the start . Our friends’ plans seem to have come through and they will leave after the walk to bus to the final stop to get their trip to Antarctica.
    Yesterday was a great day but today is going the judged on border crossing time !
    What are those men looking for in that field on the middle of nowhere ?
    Argentina is a waiting game of 2 hours ! That was the Easy bit and then Chile takes another 2 Hrs !
    We reach Puerto Natales by 5 pm and tomorrow it’s the W !
    Sunny but bloody windy ! Four nights , five days walking !
    Forest lose unfortunately !
    And Rory is ready !

    Those weird statues from town ? The Selk'nam, also known as the Onawo or Ona people,are an indigenous people in the Patagonian region of southern Argentina and Chile, including the Tierra del Fuego islands. They were one of the last native groups in South America to be encountered by migrant Europeans in the late 19th century. In the mid-19th century, there were about 4000 Selk'nam; by 1919 there were 297, and by 1930 just over 100.    Read more

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    20 W walk 1 - Torres del Paine

    November 26, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    After a good night in town, we’re back in our luxurious cabin and tomorrow we’re doing a similar climb to El Chalten ! Again ? Hope it’s easier !
    We start at 6am and it’s an hours drive and we are dropped off near the east end of the W trek ! We’re doing Torres del Paine !
    It’s a10km up and it’s a stiff climb up but easier than before !
    We hike in groups and it’s up and down and up and down !
    I pass a couple and I suddenly realise there are legs hanging out of their backpack ! And she’d had a pair of legs hanging out too ! They are hiking up here with their kids ! At the mid way point we spy a big bird in the sky ! It’s a condor !
    I have a quiet day on my own and walk at my own pace and get up there to discover a beautiful blue lake and the towers above me ! It’s fantastic and there is no wind on the shadow ! A fantastic view of the towers standing above the lake , grey with a hint of amber - they sort of glow when the sun catches them in the evening!
    We started at 830 and we finished about 430 ! Time for beer to wait for the others .
    A great day !
    After the group gets together after beers we head off to the red roofed old estate farmhouse which is our hostel !
    Food beer and wine!
    The weather has been fantastic - blue and not too windy !    Read more

  • Ant TravelsPatagoniaAnt Travels

    21 W walk 2 - Going East !

    November 27, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    A good night’s sleep we awake to a great view of the towers before heading east !
    It’s a slow start and we head back on the trail but this time with backpacks ! It’s a blue sky day and it’s warm again !
    They say this walk to the French station is easy and flat and it is but … there is a false ending the Cuernos station which is still 3 km from the final camp station and a fair bit is up hill !
    Most of the day we skirt the lake going up and down and never really get to h too close to it . The views up are of the rear of mountain which is partly occluded but now again the glacier appears . To the left are views of the azure blue lake. It’s a very pleasant hike , with lots of green vegetation . Now and again huge erratics pepper the landscape and provide photo stops .
    Lago Nordenskjold is a very big lake !
    Lunch on top of a ledge overlooking the lake, I am surrounded by small birds and an odd hawk waiting for scraps- it feels like velociraptors circling its prey from Jurassic Park.
    A light time beer with a group of Indians reveals that they were guested by two pumas early this morning- his video from
    The safety of the tent is quite a sight ! An American walker with a big lens shows us his snap of the beasts !
    The last leg feels much more than 2 km and it feels all up hill !
    We check in , another meal is prepared and we’re done !
    Tomorrow the is changing we’re going to get some rain and 40 km winds -oh joy ! The walk is longer but we may be able to leave our backpacks for part of it !
    It’s early to bed for a 5am , beat the weather start we hope ! Tonight’s its tents on stilts in the trees - padded floor though!    Read more

  • Ant TravelsPatagoniaAnt Travels

    22 W walk 3 -Miradors, Valle de Frances

    November 28, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Early start ! It’s raining! After camping above ground and in relative comfort and warm .From here at the French station we are going to the Italian station - where we can leave our backpacks !
    It’s a sunny day but the forecast is rain and lots of it from about 2 or 3pm.
    It’s a relatively easy flat hike to the station point to see the glacier ! Throughout the morning we hear huge thunderous roars as pieces of the glacier fall hundreds of feet to screw slope below.
    We eventually get to the top but the view is partly obscured by clouds and mist !
    An easy hike back to Italy for lunch at 1230 and the sun shines .
    We set off for our camping spot at Paine Grande !
    A funny thing happens on our walk of 8km to camp ! It rains and there is wind and torrential rain lots of it .It’s like King Lear and the blasted heath and I’m the fool - cagoule plus plastic poncho to keep me relatively dry .
    Wet wet wet !
    Andrew discovers all his clothes are not weatherproof- he’s cold , damp and not good ! He hugs the tea urn for heat ! I take comfort in beer and he is heading for showers !
    Tonight looks like a drinking night - the tent is there but everyone is damp ! And then at 4pm everything is sunny but still windy!
    Supper - a meal at 7 - then beer ! And the pisco of course !
    Tomorrow it’s the final leg And weather looks bad ! Got to do it ! Early start? 5am ?    Read more

  • Ant TravelsPatagoniaAnt Travels
    1

    23 - W walk 4 - Lago Grey

    November 29, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    5am ? what’s the weather ? We need to be up and back by 5pm latest for the boat back !
    A good night in the pub but we are awake at 5am but it’s raining heavily and windy !
    Back to bed , however by 7 it’s clear so we head up and it’s a fairly easy walk whilst battling the wind !
    Two hours up and after passing two lakes -one strangely has icebergs floating - and we reach the glacier . It’s 6km down and of course up if we try to bc reach the refuge / campsite . We decide a view from the mirador is the best option with the wind at gale force on the top ! The glacier which is steely grey in this light soon is becoming covered in mist - we have timed it right ! The gathering storm and wind will probably claim the view .
    A gentle walk home and we’re back in lodge by 11 - the afternoon is free , and thankfully the sun is shining !
    A quiet afternoon sitting around waiting for the boat across Pehoe lake at 5pm . Bit of a mix up on travellers / half have gone early / half on time and one later !
    We have to sit and wait for final boat -it’s 7.30pm after a thirty minute crossing !
    Late supper as it’s a drive over to Puerto Natales    Read more

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