• Day 24 - Detour to Hervás

      14 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      I took a wonderful short detour through Hervás this morning. This pretty and historical town is closer to the mountains so that part of my curiosity has been satisfied. And Hervás has a incredibly interesting Jewish history.
      I stopped for a decaf and left my backpack at the bar while I went exploring.
      The ‘Jewish Quarter’ has been well preserved but I felt very sad to read about the Jewish history of this town as it reflects the Spanish Jewish history so very well - expulsion; forced conversion to Christianity; death via the Inquisition. I nearly didn’t come for that reason.
      The town itself is well set up for tourists with many cafes, specialty shops and many hostels, appartments and hotels outside of town.
      The Jewish Quarter, with its history, narrow streets and interesting houses, is a delight and highly recommended to anyone who happens to be in this part of Spain.
      I possibly didn’t explore as long as I might have because I left my poles outside!!! the bar. But they were still there when I got back.
      Then I had churros and my banana & yogurt before setting off to return to the Camino.
      A truly gratifying morning.
      PS. I don’t think the photos are so great. The light wasn’t good and it’sreally hard to get the feel of the narrow winding streets and different buildings.

      Here is a quote and a few links with more information

      “Hervás is the only place I’ve been to in Spain and seen the words “Hebrew is spoken here” on the front of a shop. Out of all the places I’ve visited in this country, it is by far the one which is most proud of its Jewish history and seems to make every effort to promote and preserve it. But its Jewish history is different to that of other places across Spain. Hervás was not simply another place where Jewish communities had settled and worked. Rather, it was a place of refuge for Jews who were escaping from the ongoing persecution that was taking place throughout the rest of the country centuries ago.”

      https://www.itinari.com/hervas-and-the-jewish-q…

      https://www.piggytraveller.com/blog/jewish-lega…
      Okumaya devam et

    • My stopping spot. Beautiful mountains emanating peace
      These causeways can be incredibly dangerous during heavy rainA walk along a Spanish country laneIt's impossible to capture the beauty of these blue green hills.Farming life goes onAnd sheep heading to new pastureThis really is the actual Roman roadAnd life goes on - whipper snippering blackberry bushesA very old house in townLove those old verandas

      Day 23 - Aldeanueva - 13 km

      13 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Another beautiful day - clear sunny skies with a gentle cool breeze.
      I had a sleep in this morning as this is a short day so didn’t start walking till about 9 am.
      The first 3 km was along a road to get back to the official Camino, but again not to much traffic and a couple of spots where I could walk on the old road beside the new one.
      The highlight of the day soon followed with a trail through the countryside, between stone walls and further away from main roads. Beautiful.
      I found a stopping place and just stopped! Something I don’t think I have really done yet on this Camino.
      I sat and listened to the silence, cow bells, birds, insects and the quiet hum of traffic in the distance.
      It reminded me of the serenity of my beloved Snowy Mountains and I wondered if it is the actual mountains that vibrate with this particular peace and silence. The mountains seem like great hunks of silent beingness - just there. Is this why the Himalayas are so powerful - the silent consciousness of mountains.
      So here I am sitting. And running the dry lavender from the surrounding bushes on my wrists. I don’t want to leave as I know that in an hour or so I will be in a largish town till the morning.
      I can see two villages (Puebla) right at the foot of the hills. I looked them up on Wikipedia. One is said to be from ancient Celtic times while the other is said to have spontaneously manifested in the 20th Century - but maybe that is a typo and should be 2nd Century. Ah you have to love the Spanish.
      I know I have been here a while because my shady spot is becoming sunny and the tractor that passed a while ago has just come back with its load.
      The town of Aldeanueva is a complete surprise. A wonderful old town where the buildings in some places are well below street level. The albergue is marvellous and the host who spoke English told me that any town that starts with Al.. is from Arabic times. No wonder I feel so good here. The original town is Roman and there is a cute little Roman bridge in the centre of town. The buildings and iron work on the verandahs reminds me of Sevilla. Loving it.
      I was looking up my next stops and found that Baŋos de Montemayor is an old Roman spa town.
      My albergue host, Frances, said he can call for some more information. There are a number of Roman spa towns along this route. I already missed one opportunity and want to make sure I can have the Roman spa experience at least once.

      Buen Camino
      Okumaya devam et

    • Like a walk in the park...
      One very big but gentle looking bullCaparra Roman archRoman roadBuilding foundationsAn interesting Roman milestoneSmaller pathways todayHorse and cart helping a farmerAh it's the sign!Beautiful sunset from my small balcony

      Day 22 - Jarilla - 17.7 km

      12 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      This morning was exquisite.
      We started off in the dark and then were greeted by golden morning light with the waning moon bright in the sky. It was so peaceful walking through the fields with only some cows and a few pigs (which I hadn’t seen for a while).
      It took me a while to realise I couldn’t hear a distant motorway, which often accompanies this Camino. I think that was one of the reasons this morning was so special. A perfectly divine morning.
      We walked through what appeared to be a very wealthy stud farm called Finca Los Baldios (The Baldios Eatate). Lots of stone pillars signifying different areas of the estate - we all thought it to be worth millions.
      A short while later we passed Caparra Ruinas Romanas - the remains of a significant Roman city with a great arch, an old road and lots of building foundations. So interesting.
      I also noticed it was quite dry here. The waterways were all dried up and a waterhole was only a quarter full.
      I turned off the Camino again to stay within my 20 km limit. I am glad I was with Sylvie and Maria from France as we were all a bit concerned that I would not find the correct turn off. But after consulting my guide and looking for the sign - there it was painted on the side road. I sadly farewelled Sylvie and Marie (they are lovely) and walked the 2 km to Hotel Asturias.
      I had an excellent lunch - salada mixta, lamb chops with chips and vanilla mousse for desert and with a whole bottle of VinoTinto. In this area they give you the whole bottle and you just drink as much as you like. I am sure they pour the leftovers together into a new bottle for the next customer as the bottle is already open when it arrives at the table. But still it’s lovely and generous. The Spanish wine is mild and delicious and I can easily have a small glass or two with my meal without any ill effects.
      So today was walk, arrive, lunch, nap, do some washing, yoga, look at next stages of the Camino, watch the beautiful sunset …. Perfect.
      My room has a small balcony from which I can see the distant blue hills - no need to even step outside as everything I might want to see is just there.
      It is 8.30 pm and the red/orange afterglow from the setting sun has nearly faded.
      Buen Camino

      PS. We are in wild lavender country.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Day 21 - Summary - personal

      11 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Confession-
      I was quite resistant to walking this Camino. Why?
      It was too hard: too long: too boring: too lonely and I was feeling too lazy. I had a belief that I wasn’t fit or strong enough; and add to that my existing foot problem (the old Morton’s Neuroma). I had a belief that I wouldn’t be able to do it.
      And now …
      I have walked. around 360 km, taken a bus for 68 km and a taxi for 12 km to either find some accommodation or to make a really long stage doable.
      On two or three afternoons I walked for a few hours in appalling heat, no shade and seemingly never ending flat plains; and reached our destination without disintegrating. I had plenty of water, my shady umbrella and companions to keep me going. It was indescribably hard but it was done. And I learnt that nothing lasts forever.
      I discovered that I can walk 18 - 20 km before my foot starts to hurt and if I use some Voltarin Forte cream I can walk for another 5 km. But I don’t walk to create long term damage so I will stick to 20 km or less every day.
      I am now in the green hilly country that is more like the Spain I know from previous Caminos. And there are more fellow peregrinos - which has given me some opportunities to share and hear from others.
      I confessed to one of my fellow peregrinos that ‘I don’t like this Camino’ and they agreed with me that this first part was really hard for them too.
      Well the second 10 days have been an improvement on the first 10 days.
      I have moved from the hot hot plains to the hill country where it is more cool and green.
      Highlights
      Walking with a group of Spanish ‘supermen’ and one woman. I did some longer days and afternoons in the heat (32 degrees) and learnt I can do much more than I think.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Pathway that was once a Roman Road
      Sometimes it's a bit tricky to know which arrow is correctMamma cow with twinsMore cows - black this time.The first arrow made by a passing pilgrimCan you see the Korean picnic?Crochet family - Mum, Dad and the ballet girlsMural - 'Tejiendo Vita' - 'Weaving Life'I found these two lovelies as I was confirming the way out of town for tomorrowMy companions for the evening

      Day 21 - Olivia de Plasencia - 20 km

      11 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Another lovely day through through rolling hills of cows and cork oak trees.
      I met an Italian man on the road who has to be in Santiago by 1 November, so we parted ways after a couple of km as his pace was much faster than mine.
      I came across the lovely Korean couple from last night having a picnic along the way. They had food, coffee and music - so well organised. We all walk our own Camino.
      I turned off the main Camino route to the quaint town of Olivia de Plasencia so that I could stay within my 20 km limit.
      The last 6 km was along a sealed road which was a bit busy but not too bad. The last 2 km was hotter with minimal shade. I was glad I wasn’t going any further and my foot started to hurt at that dreaded 18 km mark.
      This village is so sweet. Tiny narrow streets and very old houses. The village is situated at the foot of some beautiful hills. The albergue is full of character in a very old building and has a well equipped kitchen and great bathroom.
      The crochet trend is alive and well here. Not only crochet squares but crochet people as well. Check out the photos.
      Many of the group from yesterday are here too. One from Korea, two from France, two from Spain and a ‘new one’ from Portugal - and two on bikes just arrived. A hugely social night compared to my solo days of the past.
      It seemed we were all making our own dinner tonight in the well equiped kitchen but now it looks like it will be a communal meal after all. My contribution is the salad - tomatoes, cucumber and roasted capsicum.
      Just discovered tomorrow is the Spanish National Day. All of Spain is celebrating and nothing is open.
      I am going ‘of piste’ again tomorrow to stay within my 20 km but only 2.5 km off the offical Way. The only accomodation is a hotel for €25 but there is a restaurant attached so I should be able to get a good meal even though it is Spanish National Day.
      Dinner will be ready soon so I will say …
      Buen Camino
      Okumaya devam et

    • Day 20 - Carcabosa - 10 km

      10 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Had a really good sleep and a slow start to the day. There was one other person in the albergue. In the evening he watched soccer on his tablet in the lounge area - and he didn’t snore. 🙏🙏🙏
      However when I woke this morning I realised I had missed a live online event that I was looking forward to. I somehow can’t get any time conversions right at the moment. This is the second time this has happened. Of course I felt like I had completely missed out.
      Well never mind; get ready; head to the bar for a coffee and start your day.
      The TV was on - bombing in Kiev, floods and fires elsewhere……. Suddenly I was filled with gratitude for my life, my incredible good fortune to be here where I am now, safe, secure, loved, I haven’t missed out on anything.
      As I began my walk I found myself joyfully singing mantras aloud in an exuberant and creative way that reminded me of my meditation teacher. I felt at one with her and realised I absolutely hadn’t missed out on anything. Joy and love live within me and all I need to do is to turn my attention to that never ending spring inside.
      I am now in the ‘heart of Via de la Plata’ according to one commentary.
      Today was an easy walk along a side road with some traffic - but not enough to be a problem. More cows and milk sheep, as well as poplar plantations and the start of autumn colours emerging.
      I strolled through the morning with a very occasional sprinkling of rain (thank you to my umbrella) and many stops to rest, stare and snack.
      I arrived in Carcabossa around 11.30 am to be greeted by an enthusiastic gentleman who stopped me before I walked right past my booked accommodation. He took my back pack, sent me off for coffee and taught me how to say - I am from Australia- in Spanish.
      There is a very well stocked supermarket where I was able to purchase a pencil and eraser so I can better plan my days and then rub out my plan when I end up doing something different. They also had a head lamp which I really need as the sun rises later each day and I will need to be on my way byt 7.30 am latest - and sometimes earlier - when it is still dark. Who would have thought.
      Walking alone is great for my Spanish. I look up what I want to say and give it a shot - and to my surprise they understand me!!!
      Late lunch
      The local cafe has a restaurant room attached. A bit more up market than usual. I had a 3 course lunch with wine and bread €12, 50 ($20) - totally full. This is my regular one big meal of the day. Today I had a huge salad (my usual daily choice), calamari with roasted red peppers - delicious - and Nutella mousse for desert - out of this world. How lucky can a girl get.
      The TV is on showing the weather forecast. No rain for where I am heading but lots of rain to the west. Hopefully the weather gods are on my side.
      There are at least 9 people in the hostel tonight. All peregrinos - French, Korean, Spanish, Scottish - it’s always nice to have an English speaker around.
      Tomorrow i am walking 20 km and am looking forward to an early start and a longer day. I hope my dodgy foot is up for it. I am pretty sure the rest of the body is fine.
      Buen Camino

      PS. I went for a walk in the evening and found a big sign explaining the history of this town. It seems that while on the past there was a small population, the town itself is relatively new as a result of public works in the area. I thought that maybe this is why it had a different feel than the other older towns and villages - and the services were really good.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Day 19 - Galisteo - 19.1 km

      9 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      How quickly landscape and weather can change.
      While we are still in the autonomous region of Extremadura we have definitely climbed into the cooler and more higher country.
      There has been a cool wind blowing - quite strongly at times - and after a few hours through trees and over hills, the landscape transformed into green pastures with grazing sheep and cattle. Again I sort of missed those incredibly hot plains further south. I am completely amused by this longing for the difficult first few weeks.
      We were walking on another Roman road today. Over the last few days I noticed lots of quartz rock in the road beds but now I believe that what we are seeing is the base of the original Roman roads. Sort of exciting and inspiring.
      I left in the cool dark this morning (6.15 am) with the way lit by a nearly full moon and Miguel’s head lamp. Very beautiful. I started to wish the sun would rise, but remembering my lessons on the hot plains I reminded myself to enjoy the dark and be fully present because the sun would eventually rise and the dark would be gone.
      When I started this Camino I didn’t realise that sunrise is not till 8.00 or 8.30 am and that you really need to leave in the dark to get the cooler part of the day - and I am usually awake around 5-6 am anyway. So I will need to buy a headlamp in Salamanca. I can use my phone torch but it’s not so good if I am walking in the dark for a couple of hours.
      I am staying in the walled town of Galisteo. This is more like the Spain I know from previous Caminos. I am looking forward to exploring this town after I check in to the Albergue.
      The Albergue is fabulous. Mainly single beds for 8 people and I might be the only one here today. Large lounge area and modern bathroom.
      The accomodation is much improved since Camino Frances in 2007 when I remember many rickety bunk beds and cold showers.

      Buen Camino

      (20 km in 6 hours)
      Okumaya devam et

    • Day 18 - Grimaldo - 10 km

      8 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Grimaldo is not grim 🤣
      It was only 8.5 Km to this tiny hamlet of 600 people but I got a bit lost a couple of times so I walked 10 km 🚶‍♀️
      The Albergue is a delight with tables on the footpath and an awning of grape vines.
      Today was filled with pine and oak forest. We have left the plains and are up in the start of the mountains with green trees and a stream.
      Unbelievably as I walked around this gorgeous little town I began to miss those hot and dry planes.
      Even though I didn’t appreciate it that much at the time it has been an incredible journey waking those hot dry plains.
      I met two lovely Swedish women - sisters - last night. We spent the afternoon together- lunch and vino Tinto from 1 - 4 pm (very Spanish) and have chilled out for the rest of the afternoon.
      There is no shop here so I will wait till the bar opens for food again at 8.30 pm and get a couple of bocadilla (sandwiches- but huge) to take with me tomorrow’s 20 km.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Narrow street in the old city
      Wall into the old cityThe square towers were built by the MoorsMoorish towers guard the city wallsArch into the old city - with touristsMoorish tower and city wallView from the bus windowWe have come from way across thereSpanish Supermen

      Day 17 -Cáceres -Caŋaveral by bus -32 km

      7 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      (Bus - 34 km)
      Friday morning - 10.30 am - I am back at the Plaza Major in Cáseres.
      Yesterday I was feeling quite sad that I went through this old city so quickly and didn’t take the time to savour the sights, sounds, and sensations.
      So I am so very happy that I met Serge (from Brittany) at the supermarket last night and joined him on the bus to Cáceres this morning. Serge has a shorter time frame than me so after a peaceful 40 minutes sitting in Plaza Major drinking coffee (Serge) and a delicious sparkling mineral water (me), he has gone to catch his next bus leaving me to my solo wanderings around the old city. Perfect!
      I realised when I looked at my photos that I am still having an affair of the heart with Moorish culture. I didn’t take any photos of churches and there are no more mosques left.
      I had a wonderful few hours seeing the sights of yesterday again but taking time to follow the map and to soak it all in
      I was ready to leave around noon and walked back to the Bus Station to catch my next bus to Caŋaveral.
      Then in some 30 minutes I travelled what takes the Peregrinos 2-3 days to walk. I looked out at an incredibly unforgiving landscape- dry low scrub of around 2 metres and no useful shade as far as I could see. I felt for my ‘compaŋeros’ who are walking 33 km today and are still on the road as I now sit in the Bar drinking my Tinto de Verano and eating a tapas of olives. I was told that it was only in Andalusia that you get a free tapas with your drink but it seems the tradition is alive and well here in Extremadura. From what I saw from the bus this area certainly earned its name today.
      Now, who remembers those mountains in the distance some days ago? Well I am now sitting at the foot of said mountains looking up! They are actually high rocky hills but still look challenging. Tomorrow I am going to walk 8.5 km just to to the next town and take it slow and steady.
      My ‘compaŋarose’ will go much further so I will bid them farewell this evening.
      Yesterday Antonio said some very insightful things about friendships, particularly on the Camino - something like - friendships are so good and nourishing; we get to know people well and get close to then. Friendships also have a life if their own and when they dissolve we part - but these good friendships don’t disappear, they live on in our hearts forever. 🥰😊🤗. I found his words shifted my perspective on all the friendships I have made over the years that seem to have disappeared - I now know they live in my heart forever.

      PS. I think the Spanish live on olives. I seem to have have eaten more olives in the past few weeks than I usually eat in a year

      PPS. I just met some of my walking companions at the next bar having lunch. They left this morning at 5.30 am and got in at 1.30 pm and walked 33 km in 8 hours. One man is 76! I call them the Spanish Supermen. Some others in the group started a bit later this morning and only just arrived at 3.30 pm.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Entry
      Looking towards the courtyardDisplay of weapons found in the excavationsCourtyardOpen air salon off the courtyard - for entertainment and fiestasWomen's bedroomIncredible brick work - typical of ceilingsSauna room - with tile work above the benchesIndoor well - catching filtered rain waterKitchen

      Day 17 - Arab House Museum

      7 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      This lovely museum really impressed and moved me. It seems at the moment I appreciate examples of daily life from the past rather than grand monuments, palaces and churches.
      These words come from the brochure …

      Mr José de la Torre Gentil, born in Cáceres, was the founder of this museum. He bought the building in the 1960s and made it his residence. While doing some construction work on the house he discovered the remains of an Arab dwelling erected on an ancient Roman site which dated back to the 12 century and included a thermal and heating system
      As Mr de la Torre became aware of the importance of his discovery he undertook a personal journey that would eventually lead to the inauguration of this house museum.
      This dream of his however was not easy to to fulfil: in fact it took him about 15 years to open to the public.
      During this enterprise, which he initiated at the age of 50, Mr de la Torre delved into the fields of humanities, law and Hispanic-Islamic art.
      Thanks to his dedication as well as to his travels around the world in search of help, information and resources he finally achieved his goal: to offer his visitors a unique, rigourous view of Cáceres’ Arab past.
      In one of his trips to Iraq the director of the National Museum Baghdad transferred him all his knowledge which helped Mr de la Torre inaugurate the museum in 1976, by order of the ambassador Mr Ahmed Hussain.
      Nowadays the founder’s offspring have taken over his tireless endeavour and continue to open the museum to the public so as to ensure that any curious traveller who passes by can see the outcome of the dream of a man who devoted a big part of his life to the history of this house museum.
      We hope you enjoy it.
      Okumaya devam et

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