traveled in 12 countries Read more Guernsey
  • Day 493

    Dormans to Chateau Thierry then Ferte..

    July 29, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Well I’m glad we decided to go see the Dormans War Memorial, it remembers the first and second battle of the Marne that took place in 1918, it’s a stunning building a cross between a church and a museum and in nice surroundings. It was built in the grounds of the Dormans Chateau which also houses a renovated water mill, sadly closed due to Covid. From Dormans we continued roughly west, I do mean roughly the river is getting very bendy now and we’ve tried almost all the compass bearings over the last two days. We stopped for the night in Chateau-Thierry, loads of swans here no idea why, where we mooched through town and saw the old Hotel Dieu and walked up to the Castle ruins. After a peaceful night, I mention this because in Dormans we were a bit too close to the railway tracks, we continued on after a quick shopping stop in Charly to La Ferte sous Jouarre this is at km90 on the Marne which is 178km long so not far to go to reach Paris. It’s been another scorcher today and we are plucking up the courage to walk into town as our thermometers are reading 30 deg C at 16:45!Read more

  • Day 492

    Dormans via Oeuilly & Chatillon sur Marn

    July 28, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Busy day today from our peaceful mooring by the Ay Lock we went first to Dizy to do some shopping. Then headed to a Halte at Reuil so we could visit Œuilly ( who knew one word could have so many vowels, there are some interesting museums here but we could only look through the windows as they are closed Tuesdays, why when everywhere else it’s Mondays never mind, lovely little village lots of old buildings and a pub which served delicious salads. Then we sailed sort off past the Veuve Clicquot Chateau, not close enough for a good photo so I attach a publicity shot. Next we moored at Port a Binson and cycled to Châtillon-sur-Marne to see the 30m statue of Pope Urbain II, who was born there, it’s impressive and from its site on a hill the view of the vineyards was good. To get there we passed a WWI war cemetery, mostly for French colonials. The info board said it held 2700 souls there were two memorials for the unidentifiable soldiers. In our second and final lock of the day we saw a peacocks and pale peahen. We finished the day in Dormans and hadn’t realised it was famous for anything until I checked google. So off to see the Dormans Chateau and War MemorialRead more

  • Day 491

    Epernay the home of Champagne

    July 27, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today we decided to go posh and did a tour and ‘Ice Tasting’ at Moët et Chandon, it was really quite interesting and a relief to be in the underground cellars, dress warm they said, thankfully we didn’t and it was beautifully cool not cold just pleasant after the hot sun of our walking self guided tour, the Champagne tour guide said they keep the temperature around 12degs. We learnt about the process of Champagne making, and the length of time the different versions are stored for as well as walking around a very small section of the 28km of tunnels Moët et Chandon use as storage under Epernay, there are in total over 110km of tunnels and caves! It’s a miracle the whole lot hasn’t collapsed, some must have used to flood regularly. At the end of the tour we tasted the relatively new ‘ice champagnes’ a white and a rose that are meant to be served with ice cubes, I was surprised at the difference the ice made even before it melted, the drink was very intense without ice but fruity light, refreshing and scarily drinkable with ice. Both are Demi-sec though so might be a bit sweet for some. After lunch, I definitely needed to mop up some of the alcohol with food, we headed to Tanneux-Mahy to sample their champagnes well I felt i couldn’t be here and not try it. The couple who now own and run it were very sweet his grandmother was a Mahy and apparently the name is popular in Belgium as well as Guernsey.Read more

  • Day 491

    Epernay buildings

    July 27, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well before we started on the Champagne tasting we thought we should see a bit of the town so here are the photos. The Hotel de Ville is used for weddings and other ceremony’s and the ground floor rooms are like those of a stately home lots of gilt, polished parquet floors and heavy curtains. The cathedral was actually quite austere inside but there was one lovely modern stained glass window (didn’t photograph well).Read more

  • Day 490

    Conde sur Marne and Ay

    July 26, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Ever onwards we travel, leaving Chalons once the rain stopped we started our second day on the Canal Lateral a la Marne. Our first stop was at Condes sur Marne to see the aqueduct constructed to pump water up to the top of the Ainse Canal a Marne. Built in the 1800s they decided to make the Tower holding the vertical pipes look like a castle keep. There was also a pretty little church. Then on to Ay we were looking for somewhere to stop that was on the western bank to get shade so decided to stop on one the lock waiting areas, just below the Ay lock. Then into town as it looked like the Cite of Champagne museum might only open at weekends because of Covid. It did and we had just missed the last English tour of the day and the following French one was full but for a fee we could do a tasting. Well OK then if we must, the City of Champagne was run by the Collet Champagne House we tried a brut, a rose and a Demi-sec. No surprise I liked the Demi-sec, the sweetest, John preferred the Brut and really didn’t like the rose but of course he drank it all. We plan to ride to Epernay tomorrow, the centre of Champagne the drink not the region. The centre or capital of the region is Reims famous for pink biscuits that are supposed to be dipped in Champagne, I think they are better without. There a bit like sponge fingers, crispy sponge baked twice.Read more

  • Day 489

    Vitry to Chalons en Champagne

    July 25, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We like the new Canal called Canal Lateral a la Marne it is only 64km long with 15 locks. Things started well the canal was wide and deeper than the previous one the locks are all operated by twisting rods before the lock. Things started well three quick locks but then we went into the next and nothing happened the gates didn’t close, no lights, alarm didn’t seem to work either and phone engaged. Umm found a second number to call and were informed someone would be there, an hour later and we were out!
    We got to Chalon en champagne early afternoon checked in and walked around the town lots of history, churches, wooden buildings, canals etc, nice place. The mooring is in a pretty location next to a lake, lots of people promenading. We visited the market this morning, they were giving free Covid tests if you had I’d and address to send results. The market was smaller than expected but lots of fresh produce we bought nectarines and strawberries.
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  • Day 485

    Long day in the saddle

    July 21, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We decided to ride to Lac de Der from Saint Dizier for a change of pace and scenery. We set off earlyish as we had been advised that the first part of the cycle lane was along side a feeder canal with no shade. Once we arrived at the lake edge and were following the path around there was intermittent shade from trees and it was very peaceful. The lake is 48km2 so only a little smaller than Guernsey and holds 350million m3 of water, it was built in 1974 and three villages were drowned. The lake is used for all sorts of water sports in separately designated zones and has marinas and sailing schools. From the lake, after coffee, we rode out to Montier de Der to see the famous old.... you guessed it church. It was different to the usual and impressive in its way. Then back to the lake for a lazy lunch before returning to the boat via a man made beach for a quick dip. Not as refreshing as we’d hoped John was able to walk in without any odd facial expressions. On the way back we returned to the tourist information to collect more free tokens for the electricity meter. The journey was 74km long.
    Next day we rested our legs once more and headed to a Halte Nautique called Ecriennes. Shaded and beautiful only us there so I was able to exercise without an audience always a bonus. From there to Vitry Le Francois and the end of the Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne and only just in time from the 28 July the Marne end of the canal is closed to traffic until there is more water!
    Vitry was an odd town there was little history as 90% of the town was destroyed in WWII but still an impressive cathedral and town hall as well as a couple of the old city gates. We did shopping and washing and used marina showers which was a pleasant change.
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  • Day 484

    Joinville - Chamouilley - Saint Dizier

    July 20, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Well we tried to set off early from Joinville but another boat beat us to it, John decided to use the delay to deal with the toilet which had seized, it was clogged up with weed first time which is good, since we have been on the canal each morning John empties the filters of weed prior to setting off. Anyway about 45mins later we set off only to find the other boat moored around the corner as apparently there had been a power cut and all the locks and bridges etc needed resetting. Just as we were mooring along side them it was to shallow to go on the quay, the lock lights came on and it was confirmed we should enter. We therefore spent the day traveling together through locks and lifting bridges. We were grateful to have our little French friends as there were some hold ups that they rapidly resolved with fluent rather than pigeon French. They were continuing to Saint Dizier that day but we had had enough and quit at Chamouilley on a new quay where you bought elec and water with a credit card, normally we wouldn’t have bothered but the wind was very think and the day before we had defrosted chicken legs that we couldn’t cook because the weed was too much for the generator and they was no electricity, so we needed the elec or we would have to throw away the chicken and I hate waste. It was a pretty but unshaded mooring, but there was space for the lounger cushion on the grass under a small tree so I was happy later on I managed a short slow run so that was good and the showers were great. We both felt really clean for the first time in ages. This morning there were only 2 locks and 1lifting bridge to reach Saint Dizier but it still took 3hours as we had to wait for someone to lift the bridge.
    Saint Dizier isn’t a tourist town and it is Monday so although we had hoped to eat out at lunchtime we couldn’t find anywhere open, very disappointing. We have however walked round town and seen the sights. I have just spent a few hours reviewing the remainder of the route and after Vitry Le Francois which we should reach after two more days travel (14locks and 30km) we are on the Canal lateral a la Marne with only 15locks over its 64km, then the river Marne which is 178km with only 18locks to the Seine and Paris so things should start to speed up. However initially we will be in the official Champagne region and I don’t want John drunk in charge of a boat so maybe a few rest days for sampling will be necessary.
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  • Day 482

    Froncles then Joinville

    July 18, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Things went well today no significant hold ups but still only 9 locks and 13miles some more lovely scenery on the way but also lots of weed in the canals so we were constantly checking the exhaust. Joinville has an odd chateau, it’s not a real home it was only ever used for entertaining really by a single gent so not many rooms but the gardens are very ornate and it became known as the Chateau de Grand Jardins. Worth a look around, we then visited the cathedral, and no offense to those of you who are believers but an awful lot of money is used on these places of worship, and we climbed the hill to the ruins of the Haut Chateau, there wasn’t much left. That’s what you get when you sell to a stone mason, we figure lots of the 19th century properties of the area are built from Chateau stone.Read more

  • Day 481

    Chaumont to Froncles and Vigny

    July 17, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We managed 10 locks, three lifting bridges and a short tunnel today not bad going but only 13 miles travelled. The tunnel was only 380m and two way but we met no one else all day. The scenery and small villages on this stretch were lovely we saw lots of properties we would love to own except or the paying French tax aspect. The Froncles mooring was part of a caravan park but only a small one surrounded by trees. Here we met a British couple who had been stranded in Spain for Covid but were now back on their Dutch barge and were shortly going to St Jean de losgne for some repair work as they were hoping to sell. They gave us a bit of advice about 1 the first lock after Saint Dizier being very full and prone to cross winds making entering difficult rom upstream and 2 a gypsy encampment a couple of kilometers outside Saint Dizier, where VNF no longer replaced the lock lights as they were repeatedly shot at and where NOT to stop as anything loose or even only lightly fixed would be gone. From Froncles we rode to Vigny as the guide said we shouldn’t miss the town with old laverie, church and Chateau, the ride was pleasant but the village not that impressive. Looking at the floor of the church I think the worshippers must bring brollies if the forecast is for rain, there were lots of puddles. Church was very old and a different style to those we had seen before. On our way back we stopped at a Artisan Boulangerie, wow the cakes and breads were really beautiful and those I tried were delicious. We also saw our first fresh egg dispensing machine !!Read more

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