• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Adventuring Down Under

Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Læs mere
  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 4 👉🏻 Moonta

    13. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    Mitcham to Wallaroo
    Distance Traveled: 131 miles

    Our day started out with big-city-driving through Adelaide … the last big city until we hit Perth at the end of our caravan trip … and thank goodness for that. Not that the traffic was any worse than what we experienced in Melbourne. It’s just that we’re ready for some of that solitude everyone says we’ll find once we are on the Eyre Peninsula and beyond.

    Our destination today was Wallaroo … on the Copper Coast of the Yorke Peninsula … named for that period in Australia when copper mining was king hereabouts. Ore was discovered near what was to become Wallaroo Mines in Kadina in 1859; and a little further south in Moonta Mines in 1961.

    Lonely planet describes Moonta, our first stop, as one of the trio of towns that make up the Copper Triangle … “Moonta (the mine); Wallaroo (the smelter); and Kadina (the service town).” During mining times, it attracted men seeking their fortune … many of them from Cornwall … hence the town’s billing as “Australia’s Little Cornwall.”

    The story goes that the first Moonta miner was an “enterprising” wombat. Of course, the wombat wasn’t really a miner, but it’s nice that it was given credit for the first ore find. Turns out that an illiterate alcoholic shepherd named Patrick Ryan noticed copper ore in the earth thrown up from a wombat burrow. And the rest, as they say, is history.

    We began our sightseeing at the Moonta Mines Museum, housed in a beautiful stone building that dates to 1878. Back in the day, it was the Moonta Mines Model School with some 1,100 students. Exhibits cover a variety of topics from the Cornish connection to mining displays, from war memorabilia to a school room, and from sports & pastimes to lodges & friendly societies that provided financial assistance to families during periods of need. One final exhibit covered the “Cornish Way of Death,” describing the traditional aspects of Cornish funerals.

    Next, we headed off in the caravan to check out the ruins of the mine buildings, including the Hughes Enginehouse with its Cornish-built round tower. The woman at the visitor center explained that the Cornish preferred round towers becausedevils could not hide in the corners. She also mentioned that the tower in Wallaroo was square … because it was built by the Welsh.

    It would have been nice had we been able to enter the miner’s house — a mud-and-grass cottage — typical of the mining age. It was described as having compact living arrangements … also typical of that period. Unfortunately, all we could do was wander through the garden because the cottage was locked up today.

    We didn’t spend much time outside as it was a-blowin’ a gale. Dust and tiny rock particles were swirling in the air and getting into every nook and cranny. The wind was so strong at times that unless Mui was parked just right, the caravan’s door was pulled out of my grasp when I went to open it. I couldn’t help but think that this must have been one of the things back in the days of mining that added to life’s hardships here.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 4 👉🏻 Kadina

    13. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 79 °F

    From Moonta, we drove the short distance to another Copper Triangle town … Kadina.

    With the afternoon hours passing quickly, we skipped a wander around town and went to the Farm Shed Museum. Operated under the auspices of the National Trust, this heritage museum has a wide variety of exhibits. The grounds are fairly widespread. So much so that they asked that we provide them with a phone number in case they needed to contact us while we were out exploring the exhibits.

    The museum bills itself as having “something for everyone.” True … though we only ever ran into two other people today, and they seemed to be most interested in the farm equipment. Matta House and exhibits about daily life were what garnered our attention.

    Matta House, which dates back to 1863, was the residence of the manager of the Matta Matta Mine … rather short-lived as it operated for only 10 years between 1860-1870. A number of families lived in the house until 1996. It was then purchased by the Trust with the intention of establishing it as a folk museum.

    We wandered through the small house — just five rooms … one of which was a later add-on. They were refurbished to represent the Late Victorian Period when copper mining in the area was at its peak. The kitchen was … on the far side of a little courtyard.

    An exhibit that we found particularly interesting was Kadina’s Story … covering the social history of the town from when it was founded in 1861 … including a life-sized model of an underground mine. Sensor-triggered audio filtered from speakers, relating stories from the early days of the town.

    Nothing that it was almost 4:00p, we sped up our exploration of the rest of the museum and quickly wandered through the remaining exhibits ranging from the shearing yard to the country newspaper, from agriculture to rural transportation, and more.

    Why speed up? Well, for one thing, the museum was due to close soon. But also we needed to get to the campground. You see, campground offices tend to close early in Australia. If you are late and don’t have the “boom code” you are out of luck . We had a tentative reservation — pay-on-arrival and no code. Thus we didn’t want to miss the people at the office.

    I’ll put your mind at rest before I end this footprint. We made it to the campground in good time!
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  • Campground Camping in Wallaroo

    13. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    It was almost 4:00p when we pulled up to the office at the Wallaroo Holiday Park … another G’day Park with sites for caravans and cabins who don’t have their own “houses on wheels.”

    We are in site #115 … water/electric … shared sullage point with neighboring sites … and central dump access. Pretty typical.

    The site is wide, with a dirt area in the middle of the grass. Caravans are supposed to park on the dirt. And we did so. At first. Except that backing in as we did, our short sullage hose was unable to reach the connection point. So, we ended up maneuvering and parking on the grass. Perhaps I’ll start mentioning when I call for a reservation that our sullage point on the vehicle is on the passenger side and they can consider that when assigning us to a site.

    Anyway, we’re settled-in. And we’re fed. Time to relax.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 5 👉🏻 Searoad

    14. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Wallaroo (Yorke Peninsula) to Streaky Bay (Eyre Peninsula)
    Distance Traveled: 32 NM (= 37 Miles) + 373 Miles = 410 Miles

    This morning, we took the caravan on a cruise. Or, more accurately, we took a ferry ride.

    There are two ways to get around Spencer Gulf, the body of water that separates the Yorke Peninsula from the Eyre Peninsula. You can continue north from Wallaroo and drive around the top of the gulf, and then across on the Eyre Highway. Or you can cut across on the Spencer Gulf Searoad, a seasonal ferry service.

    We opted for the searoad. Thus saving some 236 miles … which we were told are not all that interesting. Timewise, the sea road saves about 90 minutes, since the crossing takes about 2.5 hours … weather and sea conditions permitting. Both of those savings mean that we can hopefully make good headway to the west coast of the peninsula once we disembark the ferry.

    Can’t say that it’s been a smooth crossing so far. The ferry must not have stabilizers, so the vessel is rockin’ and rollin’ its way across the gulf. The motion of the ocean is something we are used to, so we are taking it in stride.

    There’s a forward-facing open deck and an enclosed passenger deck on this vessel. Too windy to sit up top, so we got ourselves settled at a table near the café. A good time for me to catch up on footprints.

    This ferry ride is a nice break from driving all day. I’m sure Mui would agree with that since he does the driving!
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 5 👉🏻 Streaky Bay

    14. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    Once off the ferry, we got ourselves on the Birdseye Highway … destination Elliston on the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula.

    We didn’t get far. A glimpse of painted silos gave us a short detour into Cowell, the town at the Lucky Bay end of the Searoad. I guess you could say that these murals were a sign of what was to come!

    We used the stop to pick up some AdBlue as well … have already gone through the 10-liter drum we purchased at the start of our trip! Then a quick lunch break in a rest area.

    Once we got on the highway, it was smooth sailing on a straight — with a few wiggles — road … lined with trees on both sides … and “watch out for kangaroo” signs every 12-15 miles or so. We did, in fact see a kangaroo standing by the road, but it quickly hopped off into the fields. Recorded the encounter in our brains and kept going!

    No wombat sighting … though there was a road sign alerting us to their presence on a 2-km stretch of the highway.

    With hardly any traffic sharing the highway, we definitely found our solitude today. Until we reached the Flinders Highway in Elliston, we probably encountered 10 vehicles … if that … most going in the opposite direction.

    It was only 3:30p when we arrived in Elliston … a tiny town of some 380 souls. We pulled into the visitor center. It was closed. But the beautiful murals decorating all sides of the building made it a worthwhile stop.

    Then, onward we continued north, selecting Streaky Bay as an alternative location for our overnight stop.
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  • RVFT Camping in Streaky Bay

    14. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    We were hoping to stay at the Foreshore Tourist Park overlooking the bay tonight, but it was nearing 5:00p by the time we arrived and the office was locked up tight. We’d tried to book online, but that didn’t work because we are over 20 feet long and the instructions said that we had to call the park. Easier said than done. First, we were in a dead zone, so no calling out. And when we did get a signal, we were on hold with no one answering.

    That park being a bust, we went to the Islands Caravan Park … only to be told, quite apologetically, that they were full up. But they had an alternative suggestion. One that was on my radar as a third option.

    Streaky Bay is part of the “RV Friendly” towns network — that’s the RVFT in the title of this footprint. This is an initiative of the Campervan and Motorhome Club of Australia. To receive the designation, the town must meet certain guidelines — appropriate parking walking distance to the town center, with easy access to groceries and fresh produce; short-term, low-cost overnight parking (24-to-48 hours) for self contained RVs … as close to the CBD as possible; access to potable water; access to a free dump point.

    We found the area set aside for RVs easily enough … a huge dirt lot just one road up from the foreshore park. There were already a number of caravans and trailers set up for the night. We found a spot next to a couple of trees and settled in for the night.

    Despite what looks like a large group of caravans traveling together — all parked in a semi-circle — it’s been very quiet. And very windy. The wind is actually downright cold, so we’ve buttoned down the hatches, so to speak. Perhaps it’s just as well that neither waterfront campground worked out today!
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 6 👉🏻 Ceduna

    15. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Streaky Bay to Penong via Ceduna
    Distance Traveled: 132 Miles

    Today was planned as a short day of driving since we intended to do some sightseeing as we made our way north from our RVFT site and then turned west onto Eyre Highway … the main thoroughfare crossing all the way west.

    We did some sightseeing, but it didn’t turn out quite as we expected. Our timing was wrong. With the tide out, the beautiful beaches we expected to see weren’t as scenic as we expected them to be. Nonetheless, we stopped and enjoyed stretching our legs a bit.

    When we reached Ceduna, we parked the caravan along the foreshore and then went to find the Visitor Center to gather some information about the road for our Nullarbor adventure. As has been the case in every VC we’ve stopped at, the volunteer was friendly, helpful, and chatty. Actually, that can be said for every Australian we’ve met during this trip. Anyway, we came away with a good map and recommendations for places to stop as we cross the Nullarbor. And we have a list of food items that we cannot take from South Australia into Western Australia. So, all said … mission accomplished.

    One of the highly recommended places to visit in Ceduna is Arts Ceduna, billed as the “premier Aboriginal Arts Centre of the Eyre Peninsula.” Their mission is to support Aboriginal artists with skills development, marketing, and sales of their work. There was indeed some amazing pieces being exhibited and I wish I could share them with you. But photos were not allowed. I did purchase a couple of postcards to scan and share here, but they don’t do justice to what we actually saw.

    On the recommendation of the VC volunteer, on our way out of Ceduna, we stopped at the Oyster Barn for a seafood lunch — Smoky Bay oysters “au naturale” with lemon; gummy shark fish tacos; whiting fish & chips. All yummy, though I have to take Mui’s word for the oysters 😊

    Somewhere along our caravaning trip thus far, we seem to have gained a whole day. Where and how? Doesn’t matter. But we decided this afternoon would be a good time to sit down and re-jigger the days ahead. Hence our short day ending in Penong! We’ll do our sightseeing here tomorrow.
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  • Campground Camping in Penong

    15. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    Penong is known for its windmills.

    We’ll see those tomorrow. Today, after topping off our diesel, we headed straight to the Penong Caravan Park.

    We’re in site 14 … a water/electric site. No sullage point for the grey water … “give the bushes a drink,” were the instructions from the owner of the campground when she checked us in.

    Once settled, we threw in a load of laundry and while that was going, sat down to re-jigger our remaining two weeks on the road. The extra day has been accounted for … we’re going to use it to relax a bit once we cross the Nullarbor.

    Speaking of relaxing … time to do that now.
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  • Penong: Windmills Museum

    16. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We’ve noticed that the days around here are still dark even at 7:00a. That means that unless we have time-sensitive plans, we’re getting up a little later than usual. Which, in turn, means a slightly later start on the road. No worries though. It is also getting darker later … after 9:00p. Essentially, giving us about 11-12 hours of daylight for sightseeing and driving … should we choose to stay on the road that late. Which we don’t 😉

    We had three places in the Penong area that we wanted to check out before heading further west down the Eyre Highway. One of them worked out nicely. The other two … well, let’s just say that we decided to skip them due to road conditions — 12-miles of dodging deep pot-holes on unsealed surfaces each way. No thank you. Besides, we were advised that the Pink Lake wasn’t pink this time of the year due to water evaporation.

    Anyway, while Mui took care of a few breaking-camp-chores this morning, I headed off to check out the nearby Penong Windmill Museum. By nearby, I mean right across the road from the caravan park. The place is not a museum per se. More like a roadside display of a collection of windmills, including a Comet that the sign said is the largest windmill in Australia. And it still works to pump water out of the ground.

    I was so charmed by these rural windmills that when we left the campground, I had Mui turn into the driveway so he could see them as well.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 7 👉🏻 Nullarbor

    16. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Penong to Nullarbor Roadhouse
    Distance Traveled: 169 miles

    WOW! Hard to believe we’ve been in the motorhome for a week already!

    Yes, I said in the motorhome not the caravan as I have been doing in the previous footprints. You see, I learned something from our campground host last night.

    A caravan in Australia is a trailer. A Motorhome is … well, a motorhome. A trailer is a pop-up camper. And of course, there is also the campervan. So, we might be in a motorhome, but what we’re doing is caravanning! Perhaps if I ever have time, I’ll go back and fix the caravan references in the previous footprints to reflect the correction.

    Anyway, with two of our sightseeing spots nixed, we moved out of the Penong area to continue our drive west. Fowlers Bay, our next planned stop, was a bust, too … for similar road conditions. Sigh! But no worries, we enjoyed the drive regardless, stopping to take photos of interesting signs … including the one marking our entrance to the Nullarbor Plain.

    As the name implies … this is the treeless plain. From Latin … NULLUS and ARBOR. The Aboriginal people know the plain as “Oondiri” … meaning waterless. Appropriate … the average rainfall here is about 8 inches per year. I took a short video clip before the Nullarbor today … will have to take another one now that we’re on the Nullabor for comparison.

    The plain, which was created about 25 million years ago when the land emerged from the sea, stretches some 450 miles east to west … and some 200 miles to the north from here. It’s a vast expanse of land. We’ll be driving the length of the plain and seeing a narrow strip of it on this road trip. We’ll see another narrow strip of it when we take the train back to Sydney in a couple of weeks.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 7 👉🏻 Head of Bight

    16. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Our only real stop today turned out to be a short one … but amazing nonetheless.

    The Head of Bight is the playground of migrating Southern Right Whales. It is billed as one of the best places to see whales. During the migration season up to 100 whales, including calves, congregate in the waters along the Bunda Cliffs. Before you get too excited, let me just say that we didn’t see any whales today … it’s not the right time of the year for that.

    So, what was so amazing about our stop here? The scenery. The azure-colored waters … rimmed by white sand dunes in the far distance and the limestone Bunda Cliffs where we were.

    We had debated skipping Head of Bight because it is not whale season. So glad we didn’t … skip it, that is.
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  • Roadhouse Camping @ Nullarbor

    16. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

    A mere 9 miles brought us from the Head of Bight to the Nullarbor Roadhouse, where we’d made reservations for the night.

    There are several of these roadhouses along the highway. They provide all the services road trippers might need … truckers too. A place to stay — motel or caravan park; fuel; food and drink; facilities … including showers that are metered by the minute. And cell signal … but only if you have Telstra service! Wi-fi is provided as well.

    The Nullarbor Roadhouse is said to be the nicest one along the way. Can’t say one way or the other since this is our first roadhouse camping … ever. But our first impressions are good. That I found lots of murals here and there around the property … well, you know that makes me a happy camper.

    It was still early when we pulled in … only 3:00p. But we were good with that … time to relax a bit and get some work done. It was also getting hotter by the minute … luckily not into the three-digit temps they had here not long ago. The good news is that we’re in a desert environment and once the sun started going down, it cooled down to jacket weather.

    On the recommendation of the clerk, we took the site next to the “old museum” … a shack, really. The small building provides a welcome windbreak as it is a-blowin’ today.

    This is a powered site; no other hook-ups. There is a potable water spigot somewhere on the property … AUD $2 for 25 liters. Since our 80-liter tank is still ¾ full, we will top off tomorrow. No dump point here — or at any of the other roadhouses on the Nullarbor. Odd, but it is what it is. We can apparently dump at Bordertown when we cross into Western Australia tomorrow.

    Time to get this footprint loaded and call it a day.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 8

    17. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Nullarbor Roadhouse to Cocklebiddy Roadhouse
    Left South Australia for Western Australia
    Distance Traveled: 296 Miles

    Today was planned as a driving day to get us from Point A to Point B — the Nullarbor Roadhouse to the Mundrabilla Roadhouse. But then we pushed on to Point C — the Madura Roadhouse. And again to Cocklebiddy Roadhouse. Why? Thanks to leaving South Australia for Western Australia, we went through a time zone change that put us at Point B a little after noon. Way early to get off the road.

    Our drive today took us through the Nullarbor Wilderness Protection Area … not much to see, really. We did make a couple of stops along the way to add fun to our day — short strolls at lookouts over the Bunda Cliffs … first to the east and then to the west; a visit with Rooey, who offered us some Vegemite … no thanks, once was enough; and a “Lest we Forget” Memorial in Eucla. We also went through the quarantine checkpoint at Bordertown as we entered Western Australia … we had no contraband, so easy peasy.

    Oh, and we again stopped for interesting signs along the way … adding to our collection the one that alerts drivers to the use of the Eyre Highway in certain sections as an emergency runway for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. No landings today!
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  • Roadhouse Camping @ Cocklebiddy

    17. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    We hung up our hat, so to speak, at Cocklebiddy tonight.

    This is a much smaller roadhouse. Nonetheless, it has pretty much everything the Nullarbor Roadhouse offers.

    Same set up — electric only; empty the grey water into the soil; no dump point for black water. The cell signal is only 3G. Good enough for social media, but frustratingly slow for online research needs!

    Oh, how spoiled we all are when it comes to our connectivity. No worries, we’ll be in a town tomorrow and service should improve. In the meantime, we managed to verify that the campground where we want to stay tomorrow night has a spot for us, so all’s good.

    One more difference from yesterday’s caravan park. This one has a tree. Just one. But we were glad to snap up the site where it stands. With the temp reaching 104F today, even the tiniest bit of shade was welcome.

    Things are heating up now that we are away from the coast. Methinks an early start may be a good idea tomorrow. We’ll see.

    Oh, and with all the time changes, sunset tonight was around 6:30p. Two and a half hours earlier than yesterday.

    Very confusing time changes, by the way. A tiny bit of Western Australia is UTC +8 hours and 45 minutes. And they don’t follow DST. Twenty minutes from here, we lose the 45 minutes to go on Perth time, which is UTC +8 … again, no DST. Not only is my brain confused, so is my phone, as it doesn’t recognize the special time zone we’re in!
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 9

    18. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Cocklebiddy Roadhouse to Norseman
    Distance Traveled: 275 Miles

    It was 7:45a when we left the caravan park at the Cocklebiddy Roadhouse. Twenty minutes into our drive, having left that teeny-tiny bit of Australia that has its own time zone, we had to set our watches back to 7:00a … regular Western Australia time.

    Why did we leave so early? Partly because we were up and ready. And partly because we wanted to beat the heat … the forecast for the day was for the temperature to steadily rise from 65F to 102F. And it did. Luckily dry heat … but hot is hot.

    This was another “drive from Point A to Point B” kind of day. This time, though, we stuck with the plan. No jiggles to Point C or beyond. But we did do a bit of sightseeing along the way.

    Once we reached the Caiguna Roadhouse — about 40 miles from Cocklebiddy — we hit the straight and narrow! Literally! We were now on the “90-Mile Straight” stretch of the Eyre Highway … Australia’s longest straight road with not even a wiggle along the way.

    It was towards the end of this stretch that our noses were assaulted by the distinct smell of fire. Turns out that there was a bush fire here just six days ago. Luckily, it was quickly contained … though it did, at one point, threaten the Balladonia Roadhouse, which was our next stop.

    Aside from topping off our diesel here, we visited a small museum. The heritage museum is small, but has an eclectic collection of exhibits … including a camel and a piece of space debris. Back in 1979, this roadhouse suddenly found itself in the headlines when parts of NASA’s Skylab “dropped in on Balladonia” … as the sign in the parking lot described the event. Turns out that bits and pieces of Skylab were scattered within a 90-mile radius around the roadhouse. In jest, the local shire fined NASA $400 for littering 😁

    As we continued our drive, we left the low-vegetation covering the ground on either side of the highway. In its stead, we entered the Great Western Woodland … billed as the biggest acreage of uninterrupted trees … covering an area larger than all of Tasmania.

    Yes, we added to our stash of unusual road sign photos again.
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  • Campground Camping in Norseman

    18. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 100 °F

    Although Norseman is an RVFT — RV Friendly Town — the three-digit temps didn’t make dry camping very attractive. So, we booked ourselves into the Gateway Caravan Park.

    Assigned to Site 26A, we asked to move to 27 because it had more shade … most welcome on day like today.

    This is a typical site and campground. The one surprise? No black water dump in the campground. All the other amenities, yes. Dump … no.

    No worries. We’ll survive one more night without dumping the cassette. At least the dump point — at the free campground — is just a bit down the road from where we are, so we won’t have to go out of our way.

    Since it was just 2:00p when we arrived at the campground, we quickly got hooked up to the power stand and cranked on the A/C. The unit struggled a bit to cool things down, but we’re now comfortable.

    We spent the afternoon jiggling our plans a bit. But I’ll leave what is coming up next as a surprise.
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  • Norseman: Off the Nullarbor

    19. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    That’s right. We’ve crossed the length of the Nullarbor … and we have the certificate to prove it!

    The town was dead quiet yesterday when we arrived in Norseman. It was Sunday, after all. So, this morning, we stopped in at the Visitor Center to pick up our crossing certificate and some maps and information for Western Australia.

    The bonus? Murals and metal-cutout sculptures in the garden of the Visitor Center … and camels!!!
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 10

    19. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Norseman to Esperance
    Distance Traveled: 130 Miles

    Honestly, not much to say about the short drive that brought us to this seaside town “where the water lies like a boomerang” … as the tourism brochures proclaim.

    This is an area of amazing beaches. A great place to chill for a while, but to properly enjoy the colorful nature of the scenery, one needs blue skies and sunshine. Both of which were noticeably absent today … and may be tomorrow as well, but hope is eternal and our fingers are crossed.

    After an uneventful drive, we arrived in Esperance; stopped by the Visitor Center in town to purchase a Western Australia National Park Pass; did a quick pass through town … jam packed with visitors this time of the year … the crowds coming as a shock to the system after the very solitary nature of our time crossing the Nullarbor; picked up some groceries at Woolworths; and boogied out of the CBD to find our campground.
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  • Campground Camping in Esperance

    19. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Esperance was always a “must stop” for us … to chill for a couple of days.

    We were hoping to do so not in a caravan park in town, however. No, we had our heart set on doing so in Cape Le Grand National Park. Alas, the sites there are booked six months out. No last minute cancelations. Believe me, Mui’s been checking.

    So, we booked ourselves into Bather’s Paradise … a caravan park just one street over from one of the many beaches that line the coast here. And in a residential neighborhood … away from the craziness of the CBD. Not that the campground isn’t crowded. It’s sold out … campers are here for anywhere from one night to one week or more. We’re here for three nights.

    Our site is pretty typical of the caravan parks we’ve stayed in thus far, so no need to go into all that again. The woman who operates the park runs a tight ship and everything is as expected.

    Arriving around noon, we settled into our site; had a quick bite; went for a stroll down to the beach and up a couple of blocks. As I noted in the previous footprint, you really need blue skies and sunshine to appreciate the loveliness of the scenery. Today, Mui wasn’t even tempted to go in for a swim.

    No matter, we have a couple of days here for Mother Nature to show her other face. In the meantime, the laundry is done … we have books to read … not to mention some logistics to deal with. All’s good.
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  • Esperance: Great Ocean Drive

    20. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Not to be confused with the Great Ocean Road in the State of Victoria.

    This drive is much shorter … only about 25 miles. It is also a circuit, so the start and end is in Esperance. It follows the coast for half the loop and then returns via an inland route.

    When we set out for the drive, we were disappointed that the overcast from yesterday was still lingering. In hindsight, so glad to have had the natural shade for much of the day. By 3:00p, the temperature gauge was reading 106F. Yes, you read that right … 1-0-6! If we’d had sunshine all day, the temperature would have far exceeded that number.

    The good news is that by 5:00p, it was cool enough to sit in the shade of the motorhome … with a light breeze aiding our comfort level. Cooler weather is in the forecast starting tomorrow. Who knew that I’d be happy for temps in the 85-90F range!

    Anyway, we were lucky that when we set out it hadn’t warmed up yet. Thus, we managed to do a short clamber over the rocks for views of West Beach from the Dempster Head Lookout. Fantastic colors … even with the sun in hiding. From there, we continued the loop road, making frequent stops to enjoy the scenery.

    When we got to Twilight Cove, it was time to don our bathers and head to the beach. I was happy to just dip my toes … the water was frigid. Mui went all in. He had not one, but two swimming opportunities today before we got to the section of beaches that required negotiating some steep steps to get down to the sand & surf. It was too hot to even think about going down since none of these beaches had any shade … no relief from the increasing temps.

    A lovely day on the Great Ocean Drive today.

    By the way, just read that Carnarvon, up on the west coast of Western Australia, was the hottest place on the planet yesterday … 121F or 49.9C!!! So glad we are nowhere near there.
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  • Esperance: Art Around Town

    20. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 100 °F

    The first stop on the Great Ocean Drive is the Cannery Arts Centre. It was closed when we left Esperance to do the drive. Instead, we added it to the end of our sightseeing day.

    “The 10 Mile Collection” is a marine debris exhibition. The “Sirens, Selkies and Sea Monsters” invites visitors to venture into a world where myths come to life … and marine conservation takes center stage.

    We also found a few more murals around town for me to photograph. Happy camper here 😊
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  • Esperance: Cape Le Grand National Park

    21. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    On the last day of our break from the road, we headed off to explore Le Grand National Park, located about 30 minutes east of Esperance.

    What a lovely day we enjoyed!

    For one thing, the temps were very comfortable … a high of 83F … wonderful after yesterday’s three-digit temps. It was quite breezy. In fact, as we were scrambling over the rocks at Thistle Cove, Mui had to stand behind me so that I wouldn’t get pushed over backwards while I was taking photos. Hey, not complaining.

    Cape Le Grand NP is billed as possibly being “the most spectacular of the Southern Coastal National Parks.” Can’t compare, but can categorically say that the scenery here was simply magnificent — white sand beaches; waters ranging from turquoise to navy blue; green heathlands; boulders with a tint of brown, orange, and red. The water really was the color you will see in the photos … the beaches that white … the sky that blue … the sun that brilliant.

    We started our day very early — on our way by 7:00a — hoping to see kangaroos on the beach at Lucky Bay … recognized as the best beach (worldwide) in 2023. Alas, no marsupials of any kind. But we were amongst the few on the beach at that hour, which was a definite plus. By the time we had walked the beach, and Mui had taken a dip or two in what I would consider frigid waters, the action was starting to pick-up … including the number of vehicles coming down to drive the beach. Definitely time for us to leave.

    From Lucky Bay, we meandered our way back, making stops at Thistle Cove and Hellfire Bay. The water being deeper in Thistle Cove, it was quite cold. And terribly windy. So, Mui skipped taking a dip there. But he could not resist going in the water for one more dip in Hellfire Bay.

    The one thing about beaches in Australia — at least the one’s we’ve been to or seen — there is no natural shade. No umbrellas or lounge chairs for rent either. If you don’t have your own shade shelter, there is nowhere to seek relief from the sun. So, much as we wanted to have a picnic lunch on the beach at Cape Le Grand, we opted to sit in the cockpit of the motorhome and watch the view through the “windscreen” (as they call windshields in Australia).

    An early start to our day = an early end to our day. It was nice to be able to sit out in the shade of the motorhome back at the caravan park. We even had to put on jackets this evening … woo hoo!
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 13 👉🏻 Scaddan

    22. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Esperance to Kalgoorlie-Boulder
    Distance Traveled: 250 Miles

    Yes, eagle-eyed readers, I’m jumping from Day 10 on the road to Day 13. That’s because we took a few days off from driving to enjoy the lovely beaches and scenery around Esperance. Today, we left the coast behind for the interior … heading up north.

    Planned as a day of driving to get us from Point A to Point B, we were on the road by 7:15a. Even with the temps dropping from 3-digits, the high at our destination was forecasted to be in the 90F range … better than the 113F they experienced yesterday!!! Still, hot is hot and we wanted to get off the road early.

    The first half of the road — from Esperance to Norseman — was a retracing of the same route we followed on our way south to reach the coast on the 19th. The only “sightseeing stop” we made was in Scaddan. Specifically, at the Pioneer Park where I had spotted murals (by artists Irene Osborne and Elaine Morcombe) on the way down. Mui delivered on his promise to stop there today on the way up.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 13 👉🏻 Bushfire

    22. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    As we were leaving Esperance, we saw an electric sign board indicating that the Eyre Highway was closed due to a bushfire. Since, we weren’t planning on driving on the Eyre today, we made note of the sign and kept going.

    It wasn’t until we arrived in Norseman, the mid-way point for today’s drive, to top off our diesel that we understood the serious nature of the closure.

    The clerk at the cash register explained that the highway was closed from Caiguna all the way west to Norseman … some 225+ miles … the section we crossed on our last day on the Nullarbor … the area covered with the trees of the Great Western Woodland. The closure is expected to last at least three days. That news explained why there were so many road trains parked up in Norseman … the Eyre is the main east-went road in and out of Western Australia … really, the only feasible one for these road trains.

    We have since learned that, the bush fire was initially reported on 7 February. In fact, we sensed the distinct burnt wood smell as we were passing the area on the 18th. We were told then that the fire had been contained. Unfortunately, the extreme heat and winds of the past couple of days caused it to flare up. The fire has now jumped the Eyre Highway and both sides have gone up in flames. The Balladonia Roadhouse, where we visited the museum, is under threat. The order has been given to “act immediately to survive.

    This is not the only bushfire in Australia at the moment … the news tonight reported major fires in the states of Victoria and Tasmania as well.

    Being fire-aware in Australia — especially at this time of the year — is the key to safety.
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  • OTR: Caravaning … Day 13 👉🏻 Kalgoorlie

    22. februar 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    We arrived at today’s destination — Kalgoorlie-Boulder — around 12:30p. By 1:00p, we knew where our campground was located in Boulder … knew which site we’d been assigned to. But as early as it was, we decided to do a bit of sightseeing first and then get settled in.

    Kalgoorlie is a city in the heart of Western Australia’s goldfields. It is referred to as Kalgoorlie-Boulder, because the urban area includes the historic townsite of Boulder.

    Our train trip on the Indian-Pacific, is going to bring us to Kalgoorlie. But the stop is going to be late at night. We expect that except for what Journey Beyond Rail has planned for our off-train experience here, everything will be closed up for the day. Hence our decision to come up this way to see what we will be missing then.

    The town, which was established during the Western Australian gold rushes of 1893 has a definite old-west vibe. A number of buildings dating back to that period line the streets. Sadly, they are all covered in advertisements and sign boards for the shops and such they now house.

    Since the temperature was getting on towards 90F, we decided to head to the Museum of the Goldfields where there was much appreciated A/C to keep us cool. We arrived to find the 128-foot high Ivanhoe headframe serving as the gateway to the museum. We used the elevator to access the platform at the top for an aerial view, which included the Super Pit we’ll be visiting tomorrow.

    Inside we found exhibits covering the “… rich Aboriginal culture and glittering history of the Eastern goldfields.” In the basement we visited the vault … “it’s real gold,” the volunteer greeter told us. On the grounds, we found a number of buildings dating back to the gold rush period … still a work in progress was our impression.

    Though small in size, the museum’s exhibits were interesting and informative. A good introduction.
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