• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

North to Alaska By RV 2021

With the US-Canada border closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we decided to ship our RV and toad to Anchorage and fly ourselves there to embark on a 14-week trip ... including the travel time required to get us to/from Tacoma. Читать далее
  • Gulls @ O’Brien Creek

    24 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    When we stopped at the NPS [National Park Service] Station in Chitina, Ranger Vicky made several suggestions for things to do in the area. One of them was driving the O’Brien Creek Road all the way to the end ... a popular spot for salmon fishing.

    At the Copper River Bridge, we only saw indigenous people fishing — perhaps because the area is Athabascan Athna lands (I’ll have to take a photo of the map I saw at the wayside to verify.) That wasn’t the case at O’Brien Creek, where the clear water rushes to wed with the silty Copper River.

    By the time we got to the creek, very few anglers were fishing. By the looks of it, most had caught their limit and were busy cleaning their catch ... the gulls impatiently trolling for the scraps and carcasses that were being thrown back into the river once the salmon were filleted.

    As the gulls fought over the scraps of salmon, we ate our PB&J sandwiches in the car. Would love to have crossed the footbridge as Vicky had suggested to eat out on the sandbar, but the winds were too gusty ... too much silt being blown about. And we kept getting sprinkles of “liquid sunshine.” Besides, the gulls might have decided that our sandwiches were easy pickings.
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  • Liberty Falls

    24 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    On our way back to the campground, we decided to backtrack about 5 miles further along the Edgerton Highway to the Liberty Falls State Recreation Site.

    One reason was to check out the campground, in case we want to stay there on our way back from McCarthy. But our primary reason for the quick stop was to see the waterfall for which the SRS is named.

    This is an easy waterfall to see ... no hiking required. Just drive into the SRS and there it is. The best view, in fact, is right from the bridge.
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  • Day 53 Ends @ Uncle Tom’s Tavern

    24 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    After our visit to Liberty Falls, we returned to the Cruiser ... I did some reading and writing ... Mui took a nap. Then we went out for an evening on the town. Or rather, make that for a beer ... we’re such “big party people!”

    When we visited with Ranger Vicky this morning, she had mentioned that we could have an “authentic” Alaskan bar experience at Uncle Tom’s Tavern ... complete with a big grizzly bear skin — head and all — covering the pool table!

    We have no other Alaskan bar experience to compare it with, but this one sure felt authentic to us ... complete with a crusty old bartender ... and a few other interesting “characters.”

    Ranger Vicky was there, sipping a seltzer before going home to her steak dinner. She is one of those interesting characters with quite a backstory ... but it’s hers to tell so I won’t give it away here.

    It was fun sipping our beers out of mason jars, and chatting with Vicky and a few others, including a woman visiting from Israel ... along with her friend from Chicago. An evening to remember.

    And now, we’re back at the Cruiser. In one direction, the sun is shining ... in the opposite, some ugly clouds are gathering. We’ll see which side of Mother Nature wins the weather battle.
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  • Along the McCarthy Road

    25 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    The McCarthy Road is a nearly 60-mile dirt road that picks up where the Edgerton Highway ends in Chitina.

    We’d heard many-a horror story about driving the road. We’d also heard from others who regretted not driving the road to get from Chitina to McCarthy. So, we did our research.

    Several locals said the road had undergone maintenance work in 2020 and was in decent shape. The Wrangell-St Elias National Park rangers didn’t blink an eye when we said we planned to drive the road in our 28-foot motorhome and asked them about recent road conditions. Alrighty then ... let’s do this. Leaving the toad behind at the Chitina Airstrip, we got on the road.

    Sure, there were bumps and washboards and frost heaves along the way. But indeed the road wasn’t too bad. Especially the first 18 miles or so after cresting the hill outside of Chitina. Certainly Nabesna road was worse as were sections of the Steese Highway and Denali Highway.

    We took five hours to do the 60-mile drive. Not just because slow and easy is the name of the game on a road like the McCarthy, but also because we made stops along the way and did two short walks as well. And we did have to trail behind a lynx for a little while because it was walking along the side of the road like it owned it. Well, of course it did.

    So, we’re definitely of the opinion that the road is doable ... the scenery along the way well worth the time and effort to drive the McCarthy Road. But, road conditions change fast and anyone who plains to drive the McCarthy need to do their research first.
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  • Dry Camping @ Base Camp

    25 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    If you’re just a visitor to McCarthy/Kennecott, you can not drive over the Kennicott River. The vehicle bridge used by the locals to do so is off limits to visitors.

    So, what do visitors do? They cross the river by way of the footbridge. If they have bikes, they can roll across the footbridge and go to McCarthy and Kennecott. Pedestrians staying at one of the two lodges/hotels in either community, can roll their bags across on carts and be transported by courtesy shuttles. Tent campers can similarly make their way across the footbridge and use the free and paid shuttles to get to either place ... or be transported by one of the outfitters.

    For RVers, there are turnouts along the McCarthy Road for boondocking. They can also camp at one of the two campgrounds, though one of them is closed for a second year due to the pandemic.

    That left us with with the other campground ... the Basecamp ... where the McCarthy Road dead ends at the Kennicott River. A not-so-cheap option since our 28 foot Cruiser is considered “oversized” and the nightly rate thus jumps from $25 to $40.

    The sites are primitive, but they all have a picnic table and fire pit. Some are along the Kennicott River ... others on the far side of the parking lot, in the area near the glacier lake ... with views of Root Glacier. Except that at most of the sites, the view is blocked by the terrain or the brush.

    We found the perfect site, with a wide open view of the glacier and we made a valiant effort to get into it. To no avail. The road had too many big rocks and was extremely uneven. It would have been perfect for a tenter. Oddly, anytime we walked in that direction, the site it was unoccupied.

    Anyway, after walking the riverside sites, we found one that proved quite satisfactory.

    The sound of the river rushing helter-skelter over rocks and boulders is loud ... but soothing as it’s not unlike white noise. We’re looking forward to our three nights here.
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  • Exploring McCarthy

    25 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    After settling into our site at the Base Camp, we grabbed a quick lunch at Wild Dogs, a food truck near the office ... expensive (as most food options seem to be in the area), but very good. Then, we crossed the footbridge.

    McCarthy is one of the places considered private property within Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve. I’m not sure how many people live here now, but the 2020 Milepost gives a combined population of 34 people for McC/Kennecott. Founded back in 1906 when the Kennecott Copper Mine was established, McCarthy was considered “sin city” as opposed to Kennecott, located 4.5 miles away, being the “work city.”

    Since we wanted to stretch our legs, we decided to walk the ½-mile into town. It was a bit hot with little shade along the way. And dusty, too. But not bad since there was a second footbridge that was a shortcut over following the road the entire way. Once in McCarthy, we wandered down the road, checking out things. Not much to see really.

    Since visitors can’t drive into McCarthy, there are a couple of shuttle options. One of them charges $5pp each way and goes from the footbridge to McCarthy and Kennecott.

    The other company operates a free shuttle from the footbridge into McCarthy and a paid shuttle to Kennecott from McC ... the cost is $5/person each way. There’s also an unlimited pass for $15/person. Knowing that we’d be going into Kennecott three or more times during our stay, we opted for the latter and purchased our passes at the McCarthy Center ... sort of like a mercantile for the community.

    And then we sat down to wait for the next shuttle into Kennecott.
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  • Kennecott: A Quick Looksee

    25 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Our main reason for going to Kennecott today was logistics. Though, deep down, I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the mill building that I’ve been wanting to see since I saw a photo of it back in 2001.

    At the time I made our reservations for the Mill Town Tour, we were planning on just two nights at the Base Camp. Then our plans got jiggled. Now that we had an extra night — thus, an extra day — we wanted to see about shifting the tour from the 27th to the 26th. To do that, we had to go to the St Elias Alpine Guides’ office.

    Long story short, the outfitter — which partners with the National Park Service to operate the tours — was able to get us in a group tomorrow afternoon.

    Since we had about 30 minutes before the last shuttle back to McCarthy at 7:00p, we went for a short wander around the old Mill Town and I got my wish. I took advantage of the blue skies and sunshine for a few quick snapshots of the 14-story mill building. After all, you never know what the weather will be like tomorrow.

    I’ll write about both the town and the copper mine operations in another post.
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  • Day 54 Ends with Sunset Colors

    25 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The 7:00p shuttle from Kennecott not only brought us back to McCarthy, but then transported us to the footbridge since the free shuttle stops operating at 7:00p. Lesson learned: if we happen to be on that last shuttle from K town, we’ll ask to be taken to the footbridge directly.

    Once back at our campsite, Mui lit a campfire and we enjoyed snacks and wine by the river. Didn’t remember to take photos, alas.

    Instead, I’ll end the day with some sunset colors. Not just any old sunset colors, though. These were taken at 11:30p. I was about to go to bed when I glimpsed the pinks and lavenders in the sky and just had to go out to capture them.

    The sun hasn’t set yet, but has gone behind the mountains. Add to that the ever-shortening days now that the Solstice is behind us ... and the fact that we are further south than we were ... and well, it looks like we will get a few hours of darkness here on out.
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  • Foggy Morning Hike

    26 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    It rained all night ... on and off. The pitter-patter on the roof, however, was drowned out by the Kennicott River rushing downriver past our campsite, gurgling and crashing over rocks and boulders.

    Despite the continued drizzle and the fog, we went for an after-breakfast hike by the glacial lake on the far side of Base Camp. Trekking through the brush, we found a goat-path-like trail that was probably formed by the thousands of people who have probably done the same trek over the years. We followed the path along the ridge of lateral moraine piled high at the edge of the lake to see how far we could go. Not far, as it turns out as our way was blocked by a second lake.

    Though the beautiful white face of the Root Glacier was hidden by the fog, our efforts were rewarded by views of the toe. Those unfamiliar with glaciers probably dismiss dirty glaciers out of hand as a pile of dirt and rock. Not so. Under the surface moraine, there is usually a river of ice peeking through. That was the case today.
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  • Lunch @ Meatza Wagon

    26 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Following our hike, we walked back to the footbridge, crossed over the Kennicott River, and took the free shuttle into McCarthy. At the mercantile, we switched over to the McC/Kennecott shuttle for the 4½-mile drive on the road that was originally the railroad bed that connected the mill town with Cordova, the port town from which the copper ore was shipped to smelters in Tacoma.

    As we still had time before our tour, we decided to have lunch first.

    There are essentially two places where one can get a bite of food in Kennecott — the Kennecott Glacier Lodge and a food truck called the Meatza Wagon. We opted for the latter.

    It was still raining steadily, but the Meatza Wagon has a small covered area with a couple of picnic tables. The food was very tasty — again, expensive considering all we ate were a couple of sandwiches ... but you are out in the boonies of Alaska after all.

    I ordered the signature dish on their menu — the meatball sub. Mui got the Copper River salmon BLT. Both were excellent ... both served with kettle chips. We took our time over lunch, chatting with an Australian family ... traveling around Alaska as part of a longer trip to explore the USA ... possible only because they are currently living in Malaysia since Australia has completely shut its borders during the pandemic.
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  • Kennicott OR Kennecott?

    26 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Eagle eyes may have noticed in recent posts that I sometimes write Kennicott ... and I sometimes write Kennecott. Both are accurate, but the latter is due to a typo that was made some 120 years ago.

    What is the easiest way to know which spelling to use?

    Use the “i” word for natural features such as the glacier, river, and valley. They were named after an early Alaska explorer by the name of Robert Kennicott.

    Use the “e” word for the mining company that started it all, the mines, and the mill town. In other words, use it for the man-made features in the area. That said, the locals have started using the “i” word to refer to their community. I’m going to use the “e” word as that is still the officially recorded name.
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  • Kennecott Mill Town Tour

    26 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    The mill town and mines are an amazing relic from the 1900s. That the 14-story concentration mill, built on a steep, slippery hill, is even standing today is a testament to man’s ingenuity as it had to be stabilized by pulling it back with straps during the time it was in operation.

    Kennecott was founded after copper ore was found in the mountains against which the town sits. The prospectors who found the ore vein just wanted to make a buck — a million or so in this case — so they sold their stake to three families, including the Guggenheims and JP Morgans. They, together with Stephen Birch, a mining engineer, formed the Alaska Syndicate, which later became the Kennecott Copper Corp.

    The owners of the copper mine pulled up stakes in 1938 ... after the ore was played out. Then, a local man apparently started operating tours of the town and mill. This did not sit well with the owners of the mine, so they ordered the entire operation to be razed to the ground. Luckily, the contractor did little more than take away some of the machinery and defaulted on the rest of his contract.

    Kennecott is one of the private properties surrounded by the 13,000,000-acre Wrangell-St Elias National Park & Preserve. The National Park Service began buying up and restoring some of the buildings, including the concentration mill that is the jewel of the operation.

    Visitors can tour the mill town on their own. Many of the restored buildings are open to the public and have interesting exhibits. But, if one wants to enter the 14-story concentration mill, one must take a guided tour operated by St Elias Alpine Guides, the NPS concessionaire. So, that’s what we did today.

    Our two-hour tour included a walk through town and a hike up a hillside trail up to the top of the concentration mill. In places inside the building, there were no walls left ... leaving one with the odd sensation of looking out into thin air. The floors were rickety ... some at odd angles. There were steep ladders to negotiate as we made our way down 14 floors ... two of them were best navigated by going down backwards. No wonder one must be guided through the mill.

    There were about 30 people signed up for today’s 1:30p tour. We were broken into groups of 7-8 however ... down from the usual 15 due to pandemic precautions. Our guide Katie did a great job of not only explaining the mill operations, but also bringing alive the characters involved in the story of Kennecott.

    Here’s the gist of how it all worked.

    * The ore — an average of 1,200 tons per day — was mined out of five mines connected by tunnels, including the Bonanza and Jumbo mines, and brought down to the concentration mill by an aerial tramway system.

    * Since shipping of the ore was expensive, the material first went through a gravity concentration process to remove impurities such as limestone. This included a series of crushers and sorters that got finer the further down the process the ore traveled.

    * After the waste was removed, the concentrated ore was packed into burlap bags and stacked on open train cars, layered with salt to keep it from freezing. The trains then traveled across the valleys and mountains to Cordova where the bags of ore were put on ships bound for smelters in Tacoma.

    * For lower quality ore, ammonia leaching and flotation methods were used, thus getting the most out of everything that was mined.

    The mining operation — including the building of the mine and the railroad — cost over $100 million dollars. Was the operation profitable? Yes ... thanks to the by-product of silver that was separated out of the ore. According to Katie, about $100 million in copper was produced out of Kennecott ... and an equal amount of silver.
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  • DIY Exploring the Mill Town

    26 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    During it’s heyday, the Kennecott Mill Town had a population of 494 people (1920 census). All those people needed services ... places to live ... places to play (although this latter was accomplished in McCarthy, which was about 4.5 miles down the road).

    Back then, aside from the mill works, there was a train depot, a post office and a general store, a school, a dairy barn, bunkhouses and outhouses, a sawmill and a machine shop, a power plant, cottages, and the Silk Stocking Row ... which, as the name implies, was where the few who could afford silk stockings lived ... the higher echelon, if you will.

    Some of the structures from when Kennecott was a bustling mining town remain and have been restored by the National Park Service. Others, such as the saw mill, are a pile of rubble. Yet others, such as the hospital, are in dire need of restoration ... which may or may not happen before they succumb to the harsh elements of nature.

    Many of the restored buildings are open for visitors to peek into. Several of them contain exhibits about life in Kennecott back in the day. There is a DIY movie theater in what used to be the post office ... with a touch-screen TV from which visitors can choose to watch a number of videos. We opted to watch the movie about the Kennecott Mill.

    (The images shared are from our visits to Kennecott over a period of three days.)
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  • Day 55 Ends With a Spudnik

    26 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    We hopped on the 5:00p shuttle from Kennecott back to McCarthy.

    Initially, our plan was to just go back to the Cruiser. Instead, we ended up taking a quick peek around the McCarthy Museum and then went to The Potato for dinner ... a restaurant that started out as a food truck.

    We arrived before the crowds descended for the live band that was performing. I don’t know if the entertainment was any good as we were long gone, but the food was very good.

    The Potato serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu is the same no matter which meal you are having there. They have specials ... it was pizza tonight.

    I ordered one of their specialties — the Spudniks ... described as “think biscuits and sausage gravy, but with fries instead of biscuits.” It was quite good ... though the portion was too big for me to consume on my own. I washed my food down with an Alaska-brewed blonde beer ... no idea what brand it was.

    Mui had the hummus wrap, which included hummus, cucumbers, tzatziki sauce, lettuce, tomato, onions, and feta cheese ... to which he added a lentil falafel and chorizo. He said it was excellent.

    A great way to end our day!
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  • Reflections of a Glacier

    27 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Stepping outside this morning and looking past the Cruiser at our campsite, the glacier visible from Base Camp was out in its full glory. The skies were blue ... plenty of sunshine. Just glorious.

    We just had to get a photo or two. We didn’t have to repeat yesterday’s hike, however, as we had a 10:00a appointment. So, we walked over to the site we’d hope to camp in when we first arrived. It was still empty ... which I couldn’t believe, but hey ... it worked out for our photo op.

    Spectacular ... that’s all I can say!
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  • Jewels of the Wrangells

    27 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F

    When you want to see a place that is 13.2 million acres in size — bigger than Switzerland ... six times the size of Yellowstone National Park — you have to think outside the box. Especially if there are no roads you can drive around ... just wilderness in every direction.

    Thus, we decided to see Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve from the air. A great decision as it turns out. Our flightseeing with Wrangell Mountain Air definitely falls into the category of “amazing ... spectacular ... beyond breathtaking.” This park just begs to be seen from the air.

    WMA offers flight options ranging from 50 minutes to 120 minutes. We chose the latter and booked it with a discount thanks to an Alaska TourSaver coupon. This option took us all the way south to see St Elias and Mount Logan, as well as University Peak and Mount Churchill. We flew over amazing rivers of ice and the Bagley Icefield, which is the second largest non-polar icefield in North America ... over 125 miles long, 6 miles wide, and 3,000 feet thick. It was incredible.

    Words cannot describe our experience and what our eyes beheld. All I can say is that it was worth every single penny, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

    (There’s no way I can pick just a few photos out of the many I took during the flight. So, the ones here are just random selections.)
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  • Day 56 Ends With a Hike to Root Glacier

    27 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After our flightseeing excursion, the Wrangell Mountain Air transport for clients dropped us off in Kennecott.

    The plan was to go hiking, but first we stopped to get a bite to eat. Initially, we were considering having lunch at the Kennecott Glacier Lodge, but a picnic table with a view encouraged us to grab some sandwiches from the Meatza Wagon and dine al fresco instead.

    The Root Glacier Trail, which starts from the far end of the road that runs through the mill town, is only two miles long ... each way. Easily doable. I think we knew we were making a mistake doing the hike, however ... almost from the get-go.

    For one thing, it was hot. The temperature gauge showed only 74F, but the brilliant sun was blazing hot. There was very little shade along the way ... no cooling breezes were getting through the brush on either side. And, as it turns out, when we stopped to leave our backpack in an empty food locker, we realized we were short on water.

    Nonetheless, we persevered, but we didn’t go all the way to the toe of Root Glacier as planned. Satisfied with seeing it from a distance, we walked just a short distance down the access spur, which is at mile 1.5 on the trail. At least we got some exercise along the way.

    When we got back into McCarthy, our first stop was at the Meatza Wagon for some ice cold drinks. Then we walked to the shuttle pick-up location near the NPS station. Just as we were about to board the 5:00p shuttle, the driver came up to say that he’d broken the key. Oh oh!

    Long story short, another van was called ... but that was 20 minutes away. No matter. We found a bench to sit on. Happy that what was flying in the air was just pollen and not mosquitoes (for a change), we made use of the public wi-fi while we waited.

    By the time we got back to the Cruiser, it was 6:30p. Too drained to do much more than crash, we sat out by the campfire for a while, enjoying a glass of wine and some snacks to wrap up our visit to the McCarthy/Kennecott area.

    Tomorrow we head back on the McCarthy Road. Where we will overnight before our next destination is TBD
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  • Day 57 Ends with a Rainbow in Chitina

    28 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Sometime last night, we made the decision to stay in Chitina tonight instead of driving all the way to the Richardson Highway.

    We considered boondocking or camping at Liberty Falls State Recreation Site in Chitina. But in the end, an FHU campsite where Mui could wash the vehicles won out. So we are back at the Wrangell View RV Park, about five miles outside Chitina.

    The 60-mile dirt road that we drove in 5 hours going to McCarthy, we did in 3 hours this time. Not because we drove faster ... our average speed was still about 25-30 mph. Rather, familiarity with the road and fewer stops en route made the difference. The road did feel a little bumpier in the Chitina direction ... I think all the rain added some more washboards and potholes.

    We arrived to an entirely empty campground. But checking the site reservations, it was apparent that would be changing. But we were good for the night. We’ve since been joined by one other RV, so it looks like we’ll have a quiet night.

    Today’s on and off sprinkles rewarded us with a rainbow this evening. Mui accommodated me when I asked him to drive me down to the airstrip for a photo op. A good way to end our day.
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  • Worthington Glacier State Rec Site

    29 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We left Wrangell View RV Park around 10:00a and drove the 34 miles to the Richardson Highway where it junctions with the Edgerton. From there, we turned left and headed south.

    We had a vague idea that we would be boondocking somewhere with a view of the Worthington Glacier. That decision was solidified at milepost 34 ... where we spotted the glacier and the icefield that fills the terrain between the Girls Mountains.

    But first, we went to the state recreation site that is named for the glacier. It is said to be the most-visited SRS in the system. No wonder, really. The four-mile long glacier is right off the road, and at least one arm is easily accessed on foot by way of a short scramble.

    The SRS is day use only — $5 for parking. We paid our dues and had lunch in the Cruiser before heading out to hike the short trail, which follows the melt water that roars down the rocky bed to a glacial lake with a beautiful view of the valley as a backdrop.

    The trail takes hikers to the toe of the glacier. We stayed well away as it is never smart to approach a glacier from below. We were happy just seeing the brilliant blue of the heavily compacted ice ... no need to put ourselves in danger.
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  • Day 58 Ends @ Boondock with a Glacier

    29 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Having already scoped out two possible boondock spots with views of Worthington Glacier and Girls Mountain, we settled on the one that was an empty parking lot ... despite the mosquitoes that were swarming. The critters were so bad that not only did we have to don our bug jackets, but I also had to hold one of the mosquito coils Mui had lit in order to take a selfie.

    Once we got the Cruiser situated with the glacier visible through the dinette window, Mui lit a campfire. Between the smoke from the fire and all of our accoutrements for repelling mosquitoes, we managed to sit out for a while to enjoy a glass of wine and snacks.

    A perfect way to end another day on the road.
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  • The Richardson Hwy to Valdez

    30 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    It’s official. The Richardson Hwy — from Delta Junction to Paxson and again from the Edgerton junction to Valdez — wins the Cruiser’s “most scenic drive award.”

    I’m sure the Cruiser will add the Turnagain Arm to that award when it eventually gets to drive down that road. We’ve driven it a couple of times in the toad, but the Cruiser has yet to see that scenery.

    Here’s some of what we stopped to photograph on the way south from our Worthington Glacier boondock to Valdez this morning. We’ll be driving back up that section of the road in the toad while we’re in the area to take some more photos and maybe do a hike as well.
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  • Day 59 Ends @ Bear Paw in Valdez

    30 июня 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    When we jiggled our road trip as we made our way along the roads of Alaska, we ended up with a couple of extra days before our planned 4th of July reservations in Valdez.

    We used one of those days in Chitina ... to wash away the grime of the McCarthy Road. We used another one of those days at our Worthington Glacier boondock. That left us with one extra day. With less than 40 miles left to reach Valdez, we decided to head on in a day early and see if the RV Park could accommodate us.

    And that’s how we happen to be at Bear Paw II, the adult camper park ... located just outside the hub-bub of downtown Valdez.

    We’re parked in site 5 — 50A FHU — overlooking the Port of Valdez as the waters ahead of us are called. We parked in headfirst instead of backing in so we can enjoy the view. We’re basically on an arm that leads out into Prince William Sound.

    On the distant shore we have a view of the terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The only sounds are the rustling of the brush — there is a stiff breeze at the moment; the screeching of the gulls that are nesting on the beach below us; and the engine of the occasional boat leaving the little boat harbor.

    We’re currently one of three campers here, but I imagine that will be changing over the next few days.

    After settling into our site, we drove into town to grab a bite to eat. Then, we stopped at the Stan Stephens office to reschedule our Meares Glacier cruise and book a cruise to Columbia Glacier. That done, we returned to the campground and did a couple of loads of laundry.

    Now, it’s time to relax. We will be here for a little more than a week as we selected Valdez as a “chill stop” after being on the road for nearly 1½-months. We’ll do some sightseeing too, but we’re mostly just going to take it easy while we’re here.
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  • Meares Glacier from Valdez (Part I)

    1 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    From Valdez, there are glacier and wildlife cruises to two different glaciers — Columbia and Meares. Columbia is the closer one ... located in the bay by the same name. Meares is at the head of Unakwik Inlet and requires an 8.5-hour roundtrip cruise.

    Before leaving home in May, I booked Meares Glacier with Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises for 7 July. Yesterday, with the promise of nice weather for today, I moved that booking. So, off we went at 9:00a ... under overcast skies that brightened as the morning progressed. By the time we had traversed the Port of Valdez and the Valdez Arm, and negotiated our way north of Glacier Island, the sky was blue ... the sun was brilliant.

    Our ride, the Glacier Spirit, has a capacity of 149 people. There were only about 80 people on our sailing. Most of the passengers sat in the upstairs salon, so we had plenty of space to wander around the lower deck and our pick of the tables in the downstairs salon.

    We enjoyed beautiful scenery and plenty of wildlife encounters on our way to the glacier, as well as on the way back. I’ll leave those images to another footprint and focus on the glacier in this one.

    Meares Glacier, one of the few around the world that is not in retreat, is a tidewater glacier ... a type of valley glacier that makes its way all the way down to the ocean. This river of ice has a terminus that is one mile wide. Heading between Aspero Peak and Mount Michelson, Meares is 15 miles long. It is very impressive as it reveals itself slowly.

    Tidewater glaciers are more prone to calving than other glaciers. Meares didn’t disappoint. I counted five good-sized carvings while our boat sat in front of it, turning first one way, and then the other way. Mui managed to catch all but one of the carvings, but the video will have to wait until we get home so he can process the footage.
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  • Meares: Wildlife & More (Part II)

    1 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Our wonderful cruise to Meares Glacier also gave us an opportunity to enjoy the scenery in the Port of Valdez, the Valdez Arm, and Prince William Sound.

    In the days when I carried all kinds of DSLR cameras and long lenses, I took a lot of wildlife photos. But I gave up that equipment to save my back. Though I do have a long-ish lens with a 350mm reach, the camera itself is not ideal for wildlife photography at a distance ... especially on a moving platform.

    No matter ... I enjoyed the encounters we had with humpback whales that breached, fin-slapped, tail-lobbed, blew, and dove deep to show us their flukes. As well, we saw North Pacific sea otters, Steller sea lions, Dall porpoises, harbor seals, black-legged kittiwakes, bald eagles, pigeon guillemots, and puffins (both horned and tufted).

    Our Meares Glacier cruise was a great day on the water.
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