• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
12月 2022 – 7月 2023

RTW Redux ... 2023

Second around the world voyage on Oceania's Insignia. This time, we're taking a little more time to circumnavigate the world by choosing the 198-day itinerary over the 180-day itinerary. And we are adding an 11-day Caribbean cruise as a precursor. もっと詳しく
  • At Sea

    2023年4月13日, Mozambique Channel ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Day 2 of two days at sea.

    The best way to recover from this respiratory crud is to rest up. So I pretty much slept through the day. Woke up a little while ago to partake a bit of the chicken consommé Mui brought me from the dining room.

    Back to 😴 again now.

    Fingers crossed tomorrow is a better day.
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  • Mayotte, Comoros

    2023年4月14日, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    New-to-us port #35.

    Comoros? What? Where?

    This little known “overseas department and region and single territorial collectivity” of France, lies in the Mozambique Channel … between southeastern Africa and northwestern Madagascar. It consists of the islands of Grand and Petite Terre and some tiny islets.

    We tendered to Mamoudzou on Grand Terre, and joining forces with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David, we hopped in a taxi to spend a couple of hours communing with nature at Plage Ngouja.

    Hopping in the taxi was easy. Once negotiations were completed. Getting to the beach? Not so much. A ride that should have taken us an hour took twice as long due to construction in the direction we were traveling. Once past it, we fairly flew down the narrow road … except for slowing down at speed bumps in the towns and villages. The reason we inched along for about an hour was actually a relief as it confirmed that the return to Mamoudzou would not be problematic.

    After a quick photo op at Plage Musical to see what is probably the largest baobab tree of our visit to Africa yet, we arrived at our destination and made our way through a resort built out of cargo containers to the beach.

    No sooner were we in sight of the sand that we spotted lemurs in the trees, on the fence, and on people! The lemurs weren’t aggressive, but where food was involved they weren’t shy about climbing all over you. Younga was the only one in our group brave enough to do feed them as we stood aside and photographed the critters.

    Then, it was time for the snorkelers to don their gear and head out in search of the coral, tropical fish, and turtles that reviews said were a highlight of Plage Ngouja. The rest of us — David and I — found shade under a tree … much welcome, I might add, when the sun deigned to come out.

    Unfortunately for the snorkelers — except for the one turtle Younga saw — there was nothing to see in the water, which was a little murky due to the silt carried down by the recent rains. We later learned that the turtles were in a lagoon on the far side of the beach. At least the Indian Ocean was warm and everyone seemed to enjoy their swim.

    As anticipated, the return drive was uneventful and took just under an hour. By 5:30p, we were on the tender back to Insignia for the 7:00p sailaway. For some reason, however, it was well after 9:00p when we felt the ship finally moving. A mechanical issue? A medical emergency? A delayed tour? We don’t know. Maybe we’ll get some intel tomorrow.
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  • Nosy Be, Madagascar

    2023年4月15日, マダガスカル ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #36.

    Madagascar = Lemurs. So, there was no doubt in my mind as to what we would be doing when Insignia finally brought us to Nosy Be.

    My initial plan was to do the boat trip that takes visitors to a lemur reserve in the jungle. Then I did a bit more research. It quickly became apparent that with heat and humidity added to the equation, the trek was out of the question for me. I’d melt before we ever got to the lemurs!

    So, we did the next best thing. Together with Sonia and Boris, we hired a couple of tuk-tuks that took us to Lemuria Land. This is a zoological park set on a plantation with ylang ylang trees and mangroves along the river … with several types of the 117 known lemur species roaming freely.

    It is possible to wander around Lemuria Land at your own pace, but we decided to accept the services of a tour guide — tip in addition to the park admission. It turned out to be a smart move as he was able to take us to the lemurs — and other critters, such as tortoises, crocodiles, and chameleons — without wandering aimlessly in the sweltering heat that felt like a sauna.

    In fact, it was so hot and humid that once we accomplished our goal of seeing lemurs, we skipped not just the ylang ylang distillery on the property, but also nixed plans to take the shuttle into town.

    Air conditioning never felt as good as it did today!

    P.S. Signage was in French, so researching the types of lemurs we saw is going to have to wait until I have better internet.
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  • Colorful Madagascar

    2023年4月15日, Mozambique Channel ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Colorful sunset as we leave Nosy Be and sail along the coast of Madagascar.

  • At Sea

    2023年4月16日, Indian Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    A quiet day cruising the Indian Ocean as we chip away at the 743 NM to the Seychelles.

  • At Sea … Part of the Day

    2023年4月17日, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    The distance between Madagascar and the Seychelles is such that in addition to being at sea all day yesterday, we need this morning and part of this afternoon to get there.

    Enjoying the peaceful nature of being at sea.もっと詳しく

  • Mahé, Seychelles

    2023年4月17日, セイシェル ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    New-to-us port #37.

    Insignia arrived at today’s port of call in Seychelles around 1:00p and made its way to the commercial port in Victoria. By 1:45p, the ship was not only tied up, but cleared as well … a green carpet extending from the gangway … with plants on either side to welcome us.

    Shortly thereafter, we were off the ship with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David … and negotiating with a driver to take us to Anse Beau Vallon, one of the most popular beaches on Mahé Island. Ten minutes later, we were on the long, crescent shaped beach, digging our toes into the silky white sand. Another ten minutes, and we were set with lounge chairs under the takamaka trees.

    The surf was light. The sun moving in and out of the clouds. Liquid sunshine falling occasionally. The water wasn’t as crystal clear as it might be on a day when there are no waves, but we didn’t let it deter us from going in for a dip … once, twice, thrice. Yes, even I took advantage of the warm water to go swimming this time.

    We would love to have stayed on the beach for dinner at one of the restaurants, but our driver wasn’t willing to extend his time beyond 6:00p. None of us were yet ready for a sit down dinner. So, we grabbed some shrimp and calamari from the food truck to enjoy on the beach before it was time to pack up and return to Insignia.

    Tonight, we’ll remain docked in Victoria. Sometime in the wee hours of tomorrow morning, however, we’ll throw off the lines and Insignia will take us a short distance to La Digue, our second port of call in Seychelles … a bit of paradise on earth.
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  • La Digue, Seychelles

    2023年4月18日, セイシェル ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #38.

    Mui woke up feeling really under the weather. That same non-COVID crud that laid me low for a day or two last week. A day of rest was in order.

    We scrapped our plans to go to Anse Patates. Instead, he went to bed and I went to Destinations to see if they could accommodate me on the 9:45a departure of the La Digue Highlights Tour. The answer was yes.

    The tour started with a ride from the tender pier through the small town of La Passe on a camionette … think open air truck with benches in the truck bed for passengers. The tour escort pointed out the hospital, the school, the Catholic Church, and the site where a new, more modern hospital is being constructed. No stops. Nothing to really see anyway.

    At the southern end of La Digue is L’Union Estate Park. Formerly a coconut and vanilla plantation, this was our destination. Our escort led us to two young ladies and explained that they would be taking us on a tour of the plantation, starting with a coconut husking demonstration. This is where things became weird.

    Upon learning that we’d be walking for about 30-40 minutes around the plantation, two or three people said that they did not want to do the tour. Instead, they wanted to go to the beach that was mentioned in the description. The beach was on the plantation property, so one of the young ladies started to escort those people to a small truck that would take them to the beach. The next thing we knew, only four of us were left behind to do the tour with Zoe!!! Alrighty then.

    As we wandered around the plantation, we followed the various steps in the production of coprah … the dried white flesh of the coconut. Once the husk is removed, the nut is broken open and placed in the kiln to dry. During the process, the flesh shrinks, making it very easy to remove it from the nut. Next, the flesh is milled to produce coconut oil. We saw the original mill, which was operated by an ox, but the process has been replaced by a modern mill that is operated by a motor. I later read that to make one pail of coconut oil 35 kilos of coprah must be milled, a process that takes two hours.

    The plantation house was our final stop here. The house is considered to be a symbol of La Digue. One of the oldest examples of French colonial architecture in Seychelles, it was once the home of a Mauritian family. Zoe said that nine different types of wood were used in the construction, but that the most popular woods are coconut, mahogany, and takamaka.

    We wrapped up the tour by going to see the giant Aldabra tortoises in their outdoor pen. These long-lived tortoises are legally protected in Seychelles. It is estimated that they can live up to 250 years, though that is hard to prove since no one person has lived that long to verify it. Zoe said that the ones in the pen were around 90 years old.

    Hopping back in a camionette, we were then taken to Anse Source D’Argent, an amazingly beautiful beach where massive granite boulders add character to the scenery. A band of lush vegetation provides shade along the edge of the white sand beach … the water is pristine and warm. The best scenery is from the water looking back towards land. Alas, I wasn’t willing to risk walking out with my phone in hand, so my photos are from the beach looking out (with one exception).

    We had almost two hours at the beach. It was comfortable enough in the shade, but under the sun it was brutally hot. I found a spot to leave my bag and went in for a dip a few times to cool off. All too soon, it was time to return to where the camionettes were waiting to take us back to the tender pier.

    This was a beach Mui would have loved. I’m sorry he wasn’t able to enjoy it today. Perhaps someday we will return to enjoy more of Seychelles on a land-based trip.
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  • Bye Bye Africa

    2023年4月18日, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 86 °F

    With our stops in Seychelles completed, we are leaving Africa behind … with a glorious sunset and a glassy-smooth Indian Ocean.

    Coming up in a few days’ time … the Arabian Peninsula and the Middle East.もっと詳しく

  • At Sea: Northern Hemisphere Again

    2023年4月19日, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Day 1 of three days at sea heading north to the Arabian Peninsula.

    Woke up to calm seas. Not glassy-smooth like it was last night, but smooth nonetheless. The ripples created by Insignia cleaving through the ocean added a sense of movement.

    We were at breakfast at the Terrace Café when we crossed back into the Northern Hemisphere this morning. No bump … no nothing to herald the occasion. This is our fourth crossing of this voyage. If I calculated correctly, there are two more to go.

    We’re using these three days at sea to really rest up and put the respiratory crud that’s hit us both behind us. We were so relaxed that, I even spaced out tonight’s Oceania Club Party. So, no stats for this segment.
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  • Itinerary Change #16: No Myanmar

    2023年4月19日, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    It’s finally official. We won’t be going to Myanmar! Luckily, we did stop there for three days in 2017, so we’ve seen the highlights in and around Yangon and Bago.

    It was mid-morning when I heard the P/A chime. I didn’t think anything of it, however, as CD Ray usually has a morning announcement to review the daily program.

    Seconds later, I caught the tail end of a sentence that included the words “Myanmar” and “canceled.” I rushed in from the veranda to get the details of a cancelation that came as no surprise. We’ve been expecting this since there is a level 4 travel advisory against the country. The question was what would we be doing instead. It wasn’t just three days in Myanmar that were at issue. There were the three sea days to get there that needed to be worked out as well.

    Ray gave us a quick synopsis of the changes, which included switching some sea days around and adding ports of call in Port Blair, on India’s South Andaman Island; Sabang, Indonesia; Langkawi, Malaysia; and an extra day in Phuket, Thailand with an overnight stay. Three new-to-us ports; one repeat port. Kudos to Oceania for pulling together an itinerary that did not simply increase the number of days we have at sea on the upcoming segment.

    Now, to come up with plans for these new ports. The good news is that I was so sure Myanmar would be a no-go that I did not plan anything there. At least I have no plans to cancel with this go around of itinerary changes.
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  • At Sea: RTW Brunch

    2023年4月20日, Indian Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Day 2 of three days at sea.

    Another day of R&R. Except that we were a bit more active today. We’re both feeling better.

    Today we enjoyed our second RTW brunch … beautifully presented … delicious food … good conversation with great friends.もっと詳しく

  • At Sea

    2023年4月21日, Arabian Sea ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Day 3 of three days at sea.

    A quiet day cruising the Arabian Sea … with Mui capturing a colorful sunrise when he went up to the Terrace Café for his wake-up java.

  • Salalah, Oman

    2023年4月22日, オマーン ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    With today’s port call in Salalah, we have arrived in the Middle East.

    Alas, I have no story to tell you.

    You see, we did a wonderful tour here in 2017 that took us to see most of the highlights. This time, we wanted to visit the Al Baleed Archaeological Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins in the park belong to the ancient city of Z̧afār, which was an important port for frankincense trade during the medieval times.

    We got as far as arranging for a driver recommended by a fellow Find Penguins blog writer. Then we found out that the museum is closed on Saturdays … a closure complicated further by the fact that Eid al-Fitr is being celebrated in Oman at this time … a three-day holiday that marks the end of the Muslim holy fasting month of Ramadan.

    We considered alternatives but nothing piqued our curiosity. We also knew that the city would be pretty-much dead due to the holiday. So, we stayed on the ship.

    The good news is that we now have plans in place for all of the replacement ports that have been added due to the cancelation of our call on Myanmar. Our day was a productive one.

    Even better, we had dinner with friends Kadi & Brad and Geraldine & Thomas tonight, which made for a delightful end to our day.
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  • At Sea

    2023年4月23日, Arabian Sea ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    A quiet, relaxing day at sea. At present we are continuing towards Muscat, Oman … sailing through a storm that had thunder booming and lightning sparking across the night sky.

    The segment-end art exhibit was held today. I went up to take a look at the offerings. Mui submitted four pieces … all very different from each other. I overheard several people commenting that they liked his work. That’s a great compliment considering he’s only been painting since 15 January … and only when we are at sea.

    Tonight we were hosted for dinner in Toscana by our friend Emghil Hasan. He is the Destinations Manager and joined Insignia in Cape Town. We’ve known him for a couple of years now and it is always great when our paths cross at sea.
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  • Welcome to Muscat, Oman

    2023年4月24日, オマーン ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    As a friend likes to say, today we “freestyled” in Muscat. But that story is for another post.

    In the meantime, here is the scenery as we approached Muscat, following the coast from Al Jalali Fort, Al Alam Palace Complex, Al Mirani Fort, Riyam Memorial, Mutrah Corniche, and finally to our berth at Port Sultan Qaboos. All of it against a backdrop of the jagged Hajar Mountains.もっと詳しく

  • Muscat: Morning Stroll in the City

    2023年4月24日, オマーン ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Our first time in Muscat was on RTW2017. On that occasion, we did a private tour that took us first to some of the sights in the city — the imposing Sultan Qaboos Mosque and the Mutrah Souq … a quick photo op at Al Alam Palace. Then, we traveled into the mountains to see an oasis in a wadi (valley).

    So, this time we decided to stay in the city and freestyle our sightseeing. (Thanks Kadi for the new term for DIY sightseeing.)

    We knew the forecast called for a high of 90F. It was already 83F at 7:30a. No time to dally. As soon as we were tied up at 8:00a, we hot-footed it off the ship. A few others were heading out early as well. With enough of us to fill the small shuttle bus to the Mutrah Souk, the driver had no reason to wait until 8:30a to depart. Excellent.

    Since we had wandered through the very busy souq in 2017, we didn’t go inside when the shuttle bus dropped us off at the entrance. Instead, we started wandering the narrow back streets and alleys. Businesses were still closed. Very few locals were anywhere to be seen. Peaceful. We enjoyed our glimpse into the “locals’ side of the city.”

    Eventually, our steps took us back to the souq. Not because we wanted to shop … which was a good thing since most of the shops were closed … just a few of them setting up for a day of brisk business. Rather, we wanted to use the narrow, covered walkways in the souq as a shortcut to the Mutrah Corniche along the waterfront.

    Once we reached the waterfront, we turned in the direction of the port for a quiet stroll. Our destination was the Mutrah FishMarket. Mui likes the hubbub of local markets. But he was in for a disappointment today. It was still too early; the day’s catch had not arrived. A few fish stalls were doing business, but most were closed. Nonetheless, we were impressed with how pristine the counters were … indeed the entire space. And I loved seeing all the sea-themed mosaic murals decorating the walls.
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  • Muscat: Qaṣr al-ʿAlam

    2023年4月24日, オマーン ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    From the Mutrah Fish Market, we hopped in a taxi to our next destination … the National Museum of Oman … in Old Muscat.

    When we arrived at the museum, we were all set to enter. Until, that is, we spotted Al Alam Palace across the street. Yes, we’d stopped there for a photo op in 2017. But we did not have time to wander the grounds at the time. A quick detour to do so was, therefore, in order.

    Qaṣr al-ʿAlam (Al Alam Palace) translates from Arabic as “Palace of the Flag.” It was commissioned by Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, who ruled the country from 1970 until his death in 2020. On his orders, the new palace was situated in the same place as the one that had been constructed in the early 1800s … between two Portuguese-built forts … Al Mirani and Al Jalali. Completed in 1972, today it serves as a ceremonial palace for official functions.

    Designed by an Indian architect, the style is quite eye catching. The blue and gold columns on the façade add a flamboyant pop of color. The palace is at the top of a long driveway that is lined by colonnaded arcades on either side. It stands behind two ornate wrought iron gates. The national emblem of Oman — the Janbiya Bo Sayfain … adopted in the 18th century as the crest of the Al Said Dynasty — decorates the shields attached to the gates … glinting under the bright sun.

    Al Alam Palace sits within a huge complex of government buildings. These all-white buildings have crenellated rooftops and wooden balconies … in the traditional Omani style. They stand in stark contrast to the colorful palace and the earth-colored forts. The polished tiles on the sidewalks gleam under the sun, reflecting the white buildings back at visitors.

    One cannot enter the palace itself, but you can walk up to the outer gate to take photos. The surrounding government buildings are all off-limits, with guards at the gates. Again, photos are allowed. If there were guards at the palace, they were certainly well-hidden.

    There was no one around when we began wandering the grounds. Not the case by the time we left just 30 minutes later. People were streaming into the complex … tour buses driving into the courtyard for photo ops. I’m glad we went to the palace/government complex when we did.
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  • Muscat: National Museum

    2023年4月24日, オマーン ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    The walk from the palace complex to the National Museum of Oman was not all that long. But by the time we walked up the steps and entered the museum, we were grateful for the cool A/C.

    Though free admission is granted to senior citizens, that does not extend to foreign visitors. No matter. The admission wasn’t all that expensive anyway —just OMR 5 per person (~$12.50pp). We paid up and entered the first gallery … and knew immediately that the cost of admission was going to be well worth it.

    Established in 2013, the museum is described on the website as “… the Sultanate’s flagship cultural institution, showcasing the nation’s heritage from the earliest evidence of human settlement in the Oman Peninsula through to the present day.”

    Housed in the purpose-designed building constructed by royal decree, the collections focus on “… objects created in Oman, or which carry a particular connection with the cultural heritage of Oman.” The 7,000+ objects in the museum’s inventory are grouped as Crafts Industries, Architectural Heritage, Archaeological Findings, Works on Paper, Applied Arts, Maritime Heritage, Fine Arts, State Gifts, and more.

    We spent a good hour and a half at the museum. And could have spent a great deal longer. Except that it started getting quite crowded … and noisy with a couple of school groups amongst the visitors as well.

    Time for us to head back to Mutrah. Turns out that was easier said than done!
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  • Muscat: An Unexpected Stroll

    2023年4月24日, オマーン ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    When we left the National Museum, there were no taxis to be had. Anywhere.

    Spotting a public bus across the road, we walked over to see if it was going to Mutrah. No can do. It was going in the opposite direction.

    We already knew that car-sharing services like Uber did not operate here. What to do?

    Hoping to flag down a cab along the way, we decided to stroll toward Mutrah. Walk and walk and walk we did. The few taxis that passed us already had fares. So, we kept going, seeking shade where we could. At least the first part of our walk was along a boulevard with shade trees. But once we passed through the Muscat Gate, the Corniche afforded no such respite. Luckily, we had our hats for shade and water to keep us hydrated.

    Along the way, we came across a few places of interest.

    The Muscat Gate Museum was one of them. The museum straddles the road between the Old Walled City and the Corniche. Lonely Planet writes that it “… with the original gates that were used until the 1970s to keep land-bound marauders out, marks the position of the old city wall and introduces Muscat proper.” It apparently affords some nice views of the area. Unfortunately, it was closed for “Qailulah” … aka midday-napping … common hereabouts during the hottest part of the day.

    Similarly, the Riyam Memorial Incense Burner — built in honor of Oman’s 20th National Day — also affords great views. Or so I had read. But having given up on transportation, we figured we should keep going instead of dallying.

    You can bet that we were very happy when we spotted the arched entrance to the Mutrah Souq. Even better, there was a shuttle back to the port just about to leave. Excellent timing.

    A tepid shower was first on our minds when we got to our cabin. Followed quickly by food and cold refreshments. Followed then by putting up our weary feet until it was time for Insignia’s 5:00p sailaway. Well deserved after a 3-mile walk in the middle of the day, IMHO.

    When we visited Omani ports on RTW2017, we were very impressed with the cities and the country. We saw nothing today to change our mind. We would still like to return for a land-based visit. The question is how to fit it into our busy travel calendar.
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  • ANZAC Remembrance Service

    2023年4月25日, The Gulf ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    This morning, as we spend our morning at sea en route to Dubai, CD Ray conducted the ANZAC remembrance service on deck 9. In attendance were 30 passengers, mostly from Australia and New Zealand — the two countries that formed the corps — and two Turks … Mui and me.

    This is the second such service we have attended, the first one being on RTW2017. CD Ray did a great job.

    The service consisted of the reading of the Ode, the playing of the Last Post, and the reading by CD Ray of Atatürk’s Letter to the Mothers of the ANZAC soldiers who lost their lives in Gallipoli. We wrapped up with a group recitation of “In Flanders Field,” a poem written by John McCrae in 1914, and the Lord’s Prayer.

    A very moving remembrance ceremony.
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  • Dubai, United Arab Emirates

    2023年4月25日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    After a morning at sea, Insignia arrived at her berth at the Port Rashid Cruise Terminal for our overnight stay in Dubai. By 1:00p, the ship was tied up and cleared.

    With required face-to-face formalities in the cruise terminal the #1 priority, we headed off the ship around 1:45p when the deck 6 passengers were called. It was easy-peasy, although we did end up having to stand under the hot sun for a bit before we could re-embark. Logistics-wise, I think it would have been more efficient to have everyone — passengers and crew — disembark from the same gangway and use the other gangway to re-embark the ship. Assigning separate gangways for passengers and crew, the two-way traffic created an unnecessary choke-point.

    Anyway, once back on the ship, we relaxed in our cabin, enjoying the nice ocean breeze in the shade on our veranda. Why not go into Dubai? Well, with a 4:15p meeting time for the third RTW Special Event, it would have been too much of a hassle to do so … especially since we’ve been to Dubai before.

    The story of the event is coming up …

    P.S. I cheated. The photo is of the skyline from tomorrow (yes, a bit of digital time travel). When we arrived mid-day today, the skyline was hidden by a thick veil of desert dust/marine layer/smog. By the way, the ship with the red funnel is Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth II — fondly, QE2 — now a hotel in Dubai.
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  • RTW Event (1): Al Maha Desert Dune

    2023年4月25日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ 🌙 86 °F

    Part 1 of 2

    The third off-the-ship special event for RTW cruisers was held in Dubai today. With the fancy name of “A Vintage Evening at Al Maha Desert Dune,” it took us out of the city and into the desert.

    The description we received read …

    “Absorb the mystique of the Arabian Desert as you engage in an authentic Bedouin experience with live Arabic performances. Begin your adventure with a brief desert ride from the reserve gate to the sundowner site located in the magical landscape of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. Enjoy a private falcon show at the sundowner site followed by a customary Arabic Bakhoor welcome with an Al Ayyala dance at the camp site. Savor amazing cuisine under the desert stars catered by the five-star Al Maha Luxury Resort & Spa while enjoying a traditional show of Tanoura dancing, live music of out and tabla players, and the skills of henna artists.”

    Not mentioned in the description was belly dancers. But rest assured that they were there!

    To get to the event, there were some 110 or so 4WD Toyota Landcruisers standing by to convoy us to the site. Mui and I were lucky and landed in batch 1/vehicle 4. Off we went through Dubai traffic in small convoys of 8-10 vehicles. Then, the 4WD was engaged as we turned on to an unpaved dirt road. Eventually, we stopped to let some air out of the tires for the portion of the ride that took us into the desert. There were no giant dunes to climb like we did in Walvis Bay, Namibia … but it was fun nonetheless. And we saw gazelles and herds of oryx along the way.

    When we arrived at the sundowner site, we were greeted by waiters offering wine, bubbly, and a variety of other beverages. A selection of nuts, strawberries, dried apricots and the most delicious dates were brought around as well. We were invited to take a seat in the “performance area,” which was set up with rows and rows of cushions on the carpeted ground … and some benches at the very rear for those who might find it difficult to use the cushions.

    From our seats, Mui and I had a view of the amazing sunset that painted the desert in beautiful warm hues. It was also a great spot from which to enjoy the falcon show. The handler introduced us to Ghost, a peregrine falcon, and told us a bit about what to expect before setting the bird free to fly. He had Ghost flying in fast and furious to catch the lure, but did not let him do so immediately. When Ghost was finally allowed to snatch the lure out of the air, he landed right in front of us, giving us a front-row seat to how he refused to give up his “catch” until his handler traded the lure for some fresh quail meat.

    With the performance over, and the sun having set, it was time for us to get back in our vehicles for the short drive to the Bedouin camp for dinner … which will be Part II of the write up (mostly because I am only allowed two videos per footprint and it would be a shame to not share the belly dancing with you as well as the falcon show 🤪.)
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  • RTW Event (2): Al Maha Desert Dune

    2023年4月25日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ 🌙 81 °F

    Part 2 of 2

    I left off part 1 of the event footprint with us getting into our 4WD vehicles and convoying the short distance to the Bedouin camp at the Al Maha Luxury Resort & Spa.

    On arrival, we were greeted by two rows of jellabiya-clad men performing an Ayallah dance, twirling guns in the air … traditionally known as an Arabic Bakhoor Welcome. Two of the men would later repeat the welcome on stage.

    Just beyond them, two rows of servers stood at the ready to welcome us with wine, bubbly, and other beverages.

    We had our pick of what we call in Turkish “yer sofrası” … which literally translates as floor table … essentially, a low-to-the-ground table with cushions for seating. In this instance, each place setting had two thick cushions, which allowed the table to be raised slightly more than usual … making sitting down and getting up easier. Off to the side were a couple of regular tables and chairs for those who were unable to get down and up easily.

    Noting the loud music coming from the speakers, we opted for a table off to the side instead of front and center. Our vehicle-mates, Doug and Mary-Jo — whom we know from RTW2017 — joined us at the 8-top table … as did friends Sonia & Boris and Younga & David. It was a fun table, though conversation was fairly restricted due to the loud music.

    After CD Ray welcomed everyone, he turned the event over to an MC … a well-known radio personality. She introduced the various performances, starting with the oud and tabla musicians. This was followed by the Tanoura performance … a dance, if you will, that apparently originated in Egypt. Our MC explained that the dancers would be twirling counter-clockwise — the opposite direction to normal blood circulation — to ensure they wouldn’t get dizzy and keel over. The final performance was what everyone — especially the men, I would venture to say — were waiting for … the belly dancers. I’ve seen a lot of belly dancers in my time and can say that these two women were not like any I’ve seen before 🤪.

    In between the performances, we ate. Each table had a set of mezes to share … the rest of the food was served buffet-style — salads and sides, a variety of meats from the grill, and desserts. (I’ve included the menu, so you can check it out if you want to get an idea of what we ate.) Beverages — wine, beer, and non-alcoholic — flowed freely … adding to the overall festive atmosphere.

    Around 9:30p, CD Ray announced that the vehicles were coming. He explained that, to avoid confusion, everyone needed to go with the same driver they came with, and in the same batch/vehicle order. Of course, a whole bunch of people didn’t like that idea and tried to get into vehicles departing earlier, which just created chaos. (I have heard tales of “vehicle owners” evicting those who tried to co-opt their vehicles.) It didn’t help that some of the vehicles missed the turn-off to the camp and had to make three-point turns on the narrow sand-road to go back. Some got stuck in the sand, further delaying the process.

    In the meantime, our batch 1/vehicle 4 was long gone. We were lucky enough to have a driver who knew how to handle the logistics. Ready at the staging area with our vehicle mates, he found and loaded us up quickly. Since the vehicles ahead of us were still waiting for some of their passengers, the dispatcher gave us the green light to go without delay.

    Sanjay, our driver — a funny guy from India, who was also quite informative on the ride out to the dessert — needed no further prompting. Off we went on a fast and furious drive, averaging 120 kph once we got on the highway. By 10:30p, we were disembarking at the cruise terminal.

    Another great RTW event — for me, personally, #2 after the Boschendal event in Cape Town and ahead of the La Rural event in Buenos Aires.

    Where will the fourth event be held? Not in Myanmar as planned since the port of call in Yangon has been canceled. We are in a holding pattern, waiting to find out further details.
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  • Dubai Day 2: Burj Khalifa

    2023年4月26日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    Another segment of RTW2023 is now behind us … adding 5,498 NM of cruising under our belt on the now-ended 21-day Safaris & Global Gems segment.

    Our plan today — the first day of the Far East Legends segment … and our second day in Dubai — was to hop on the port shuttle to the Dubai Mall.

    It wasn’t shopping that was on our mind, however. No, we had tickets for the “At the Top” experience at Burj Khalifa … which, at 2,722 feet from base to tip, is the tallest building in the world. From the snippets on the screens on the 124th floor, I later learned that it took a year to lay down the groundwork. Then, it took only 1,093 days to complete the first 100 floors of the Burj. From excavation to opening in 2010, it took 6 years to complete the construction.

    Passing the mall aquarium, with its huge exterior glass wall giving us a glimpse into one of the many tanks, we made our way to the fountain area. We’d stopped here for a quick photo op in 2017, so we knew it would be the best spot from which to photograph the Burj Khalifa … which is also billed as the tallest free-standing structure in the world. Yes … there are a lot of superlatives associated with Burj Khalifa. With Dubai in general actually.

    Our timed entry tickets for “At the Top” were for 11:00a. But when we presented our tickets before 10:00a, the guard simply ushered us into the queue … where not a single soul was waiting.

    Tickets scanned, we joined the elevator queue. The line was fairly long but moved along at a steady pace. So much so that we had no time to digest the information being “broadcast” on the walls about some of the daring-do feats associated with the Burj … such as the story of how Google Earth images were taken of the building … or how it was used in a “Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol” movie stunt sequence by Tom Cruise.

    Shortly, we were taking our first photo from the lookout terrace on the 124th floor. The terrace was glassed in for safety, but it was open to the fresh air. Despite the sun, it felt cooler on the terrace. I later read that there is a 6° differential between the ambient temperature on the ground floor and the top of the tower.

    The scenery was hazy with a light veil of the desert sand/marine layer/ smog that seems to blanket Dubai much of the time. There was quite a bit of a glare from the glass wall that made taking photos difficult. As well, the angle at which I had to place the camera against the glass, skewed the buildings below us … a pet peeve of mine. But it is what it is.

    As we made our way around the 124th floor, we spied a staircase up to the 125th floor. The views were the same, of course, but we went up to check it out before wrapping up our “At the Top” experience. (By the way, for those interested, there were several fee-based photo op stations on the 125th floor.)

    On our way to the elevator when we first arrived, photos had been taken for a souvenir photo package. We had checked out the photos in the package at one of the stations at the top … opting out at that point. As we were leaving the building, a guy at the photo counter near the exit made us an offer … a digital photo package on a USB stick (a souvenir keychain). Again, we said no. But then he really dropped the price, so we caved and got the package. Lesson of the day … wait to purchase your souvenir photos as you are leaving! After all, at that point, they have nothing to lose by offering discounted options.

    Leaving the Burj Khalifa, we set out to explore the mall and get a bite to eat.
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