• Jo-Lynne Sutherland
feb. – apr. 2023

Mexico & Arizona 2023

Exploring Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende & Tucson. Læs mere
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    25. februar 2023

    Phoenix on route to Mexico City

    25. februar 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Nexus worked well in Toronto, so got through relatively quickly. Flight was delayed by 2 hours, though, so we didn't get to the Hilton Garden Inn after midnight - expensive hotel - $US 238. Popped in my Simcorner SIM card, but had trouble getting it activated. They responded quickly to my emails, though, and soon I was all set to go. Now that I've discovered other SIM cards, I can't imagine travelling without them. This one cost $52 / month and I bought 2 as we'd be travelling for the next 6 weeks or so in the US & Mexico.Læs mere

  • Mexico City Day 1

    26. februar 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Phoenix airport worked well. Nice guy checked us in, accepted our Nexus card and gave us pre approval. We zipped through security - no need to remove anything. We booked seats in advance but still didn’t board until Zone 5. There was no inflight entertainment - at least not that we could figure out.

    When we arrived in Mexico there was a huge queue. We left the line to see if there was another way - signage was confusing. Fortunately when we came back a young American girl working with an NGO for animals let us back into line where we were before.

    As luck would have it, when we were about 1/3 the way to security, they open the rope and ushered Americans & Canadians to another line and we got through quite quickly.

    We took an Uber to Hotel Gillow. Super efficient and cheap - only problem is the car totally stopped at one point and the driver had to open the hood and fiddle with something. It stopped again, but fortunately he was able to get it going again and we made it to the hotel

    Hotel Gillow is in the heart of the old city, just off the main walking street and close to the Palace. It’s old but charming - rooms encircling the inner courtyard. We had a room on the 6th floor with a fair sized balcony. Needless to say we climbed the stairs up and down for 3 days. A good workout especially at that altitude - 7,000 ft.

    We headed out to explore and I actually felt a little weird - the combo of heat, sun reflecting off the slate streets, and altitude made me feel light headed.

    That evening we found a little place on the walking street for dinner - panini and Bohemia light for me, salad and Bohemia dark for Peter. It was actually really good.
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  • Day 2 Centro Historico & Grand Hotel

    27. februar 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Had a lovely breakfast at Hotel Gillow, included with the room. The waiters don’t speak English, so using Reverso and lots of gestures we made our choices - which worked out well. We then headed out to explore the surrounding area.

    We headed down the nearby walking street, popping into an exhibit by Marysole Warner Baz - impressive - then past China Town into the modern part of the city.
    One building looked like a fabulous museum of indigenous artist, but was in fact a Casino. Disappointing.

    From there we headed to the Arch of the Revolution for a quick view, then walked back to Zócalo, the main square with the Presidential Palace. The had been a huge protest there the day before so there were police everywhere - lots of women - and the square was roped off to cars.

    From here we went into the Grand Hotel overlooking the square, which friends had recommended. The architecture was stunning. Our timing was great - we didn’t have a reservation, but as we were there early there was room. Luckier still, it coincided with the lowering of the flag with lots of high goose stepping officers. Quite the spectacle. A lovely end to the day.

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  • Day 3 Bus Tour & Sky Bar

    28. februar 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We didn’t chose well for our breakfast today - never choose Continental in Mexico - slices of white toast, not much more. Lesson learned.
    We then headed to Zócala to catch a hop on hop off bus tour with Turibus. We bought our tickets there and it worked well. We got off at the Archeological museum - helped us get a better understanding of the origins of Mexican people - native, then the Spanish came with their black slaves and the groups intermingled, hence the different skin tones here.
    We then wandered to the Modern Art Museum- were told there was a good restaurant there - but it was closed. We were so famished we didn’t spend much time in the museum and ended up buying some fresh fruit from a vendor outside the museum to keep us going.

    We hopped back on the bus intending to go to the Frida Kahlo Museum but it was too late by then. Still hungry, we walked to the Miralto restaurant on the 41st floor of the Latinamericana building. Amazing 360 view of the city, but not a great vibe - American music playing and not many people.
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  • Day 4 Palace, Museums, Terazza Cha Cha

    1. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We headed down to the main square - President’s Palace etc - a short walk away. It was totally blocked off due to protests the day before because President Obrador was trying to excerpt power from the courts. There was a group for men protesting, and in the same square several people being « cleansed" - old & young,

    From here, we headed to Belles Artes - WOW impressive especially the large mural by Diego Rivera that was taken down in New York due to his support for Communism, so he duplicated it here.

    From there, we took an Uber to Frida Kahlo Museum. Impressive- was a bit like seeing the Neitzsche Haus - both idols from their countries. We didn't have reservations and the queue was long, but I used my "old lady" spin and the fact that we'd spent $$$ coming to see the museum, and a young girl took pity on me and sent me to her manager who instantly let us enter. The plus of being "old."

    The Highlight, though, was dinner at Terazza Cha, Cha, Cha, overlooking Plaza de la República. Beautiful.

    Tomorrow we head off to SMA. Should be good fun.
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  • San Miguel Here We Come

    2. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Bajiogo shuttle worked well, but was super expensive- US$100 each. Will try to find a cheaper way back. The driver arrived on time and we had the car to ourselves. He took us directly to El Chorro #50. The lock box opened and we found 3 keys, which worked well. A great start.

    The place was tiny but with a huge courtyard, which I loved. After decluttering for a good hour - pots, pans, plants, ornaments, everywhere - I felt more at home. The shower trickled and ran out of hot water after a few minutes, but otherwise it had a lot of charm.

    From the tiny Juliette balcony we heard a neighbour speaking English. Seems he left his cell phone is a taxi and was trying to retrieve it, with no luck. They did invite us over, though, and their place was spectacular - humungous garden, beautiful artwork, but only 1 bedroom. It came with full time maid & gardener. Turns out Edith is an author and David retired, never said what he did, from Bowen Island. They gave us good instructions on where to find groceries, etc. Diego, the 27 year old owner of our place, hadn’t left any instructions so I had to keep emailing him with questions - wifi, garbage,groceries, etc etc.

    We then headed out along the narrow cobblestone streets. Charming but not easy to walk on. We found the main square - Jardine, pronounced Hardeen- complete with 4 mariachi bands competing for attention.The weather was amazing - about 25 in the evening.

    We picked up some groceries at a tiny shop near by, then at Madeline’s suggestion, had dinner at Manantial, a small restaurant nearby that specializes in fish tacos etc. The place was cute, the ambience vibrant. Such fun.
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  • Festival of the Conquistadors

    3. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We really lucked out today. Little did we know it, but the first Friday in March is the Festival of the Conquistadors.

    What an amazing sight. We wandered into the Jardin about 10am and it was packed with hundreds of dancers all in ornate traditional costumes. They were still there when we passed by again about 10pm, dancing as enthusiastically as ever.

    Googling a bit, I found out that this has been a tradition for 400 years. The dancers are paying their respects to El Senor de la Conquista, a 1575 stature of Christ housed in the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel (beautiful church). People who enter the church this day say 33 prayers, one for each day of Jesus’ life.

    After lunch we climbed up behind our place on El Chorro to get a view of the city, - so much larger than we thought - then we were invited to John & Madeline’s for drinks, followed by dinner at Hecho en México a nearby restaurant. Food was delish and the servings were huge.

    Such fun seeing Sariya & family after all these years. We decided the last time we’d seen her she was still at Dartmouth College - YIKES about 25 years ago. Was great to meet her husband John, daughter Ariadne, in first year at McGill, a son Fred heading to university next year.

    What a wonderful start to our stay in SMA.
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  • Parque Benito Juárez, Playhouse Theatre

    4. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Another interesting day in SMA. In the morning we wandered down past the Casa de la Cultura El Chorro to Parque Benito Juárez. The Cultual Center holds all kinds of classes - art, dance, piano, etc- and the park is huge and beautiful - displays of arts & crafts, children’s play area, basketball court etc. We even found an exercise area with bars etc.

    In the evening we met Glenn & Sharyn Tarver and their friends at the San Miguel Playhouse. The performer, Leah Alonzo, was amazing - rich voice like Amy Winehouse, and songs & banter that told the story of her life - the good, the bad & the ugly. The audience was totally charmed.
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  • Unitariun Church & Exploring the City

    5. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We rarely go to church, but Glenn encouraged us to come to the Unitarian Church just to see what it’s all about. To our surprise, it was extremely interesting - and totally non religious.

    It’s located at Hotel Posada de la Aldea - a lovely building with beautiful landscaping. To our surprise, Sue Atkinson approached us. We hadn’t seen her in about 10 years, but we quickly picked up where we had left off. We took pics to send to Jim & Jacqueline.

    At the service, two female lawyers - Rebecca Eichler & Careen Shannon - spoke about helping a mother, her daughter & son migrate from Honduras to the US. The story is captured in their film Las Abogadas.

    After church we went for lunch with Glenn & company again at Heche en Mexico, then wandered around the city enjoying the sites & sounds.
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  • Mercado de Artésanias

    5. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ 🌩️ 29 °C

    Collecting garbage is interesting here. At 11 am the truck comes down the street ringing a bell. Although El Chorro is one way, it goes down & comes back up again. This is great because it gives you enough time to dash out with your garbage - black bag only, none of this sorting into 3 different bags. Soooo easy.
    Peter caught them in time.

    Our adventure today was to wander into the Artisan’s market - a random collection of everything from veggies to crafts. Soooo colourful . . . .

    By chance we ran into Madeline as we wandered around the city after, then stopped at La Sacristia, a lovely hideaway for drinks. It never ceases to amaze me what beautiful courtyards there are hidden behind doors.

    My other delights are the colourful walls, doors decorated with fresh flowers, and Mojigangas - 15’ tall puppets everywhere. They trace their origins to Spain, where they represented politicians etc, but in SMA they’re more fanciful & comical. The brides & grooms are favourites at weddings.
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  • Getting into a Routine

    7. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We’re getting into a routine now. Head out in the morning - nice & cool then - do some exercises in Juárez Park, climb the stairs at the end of our street - lots of them - come back for breakfast. Afternoons are super hot - 29C- 30C so best to lay low until about 4. We then head out to explore new areas.

    Today Peter & John had a book club meeting, so Madeline showed me around their “hood” - street with murals, outdoor markets, and shops with things I couldn’t find elsewhere like notebooks for the Spanish lessons we’ll be starting tomorrow.

    We passed through the Jardín on route home - again Mariachi bands playing on every corner.
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  • International Women’s Day Parade

    8. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Such a great day - morning exercises, first Spanish class, then an amazing
    parade celebrating International Women’s Day. A bit about each:

    The steps in the morning are getting a bit easier, and the photo ops are great.

    At 12:30 we started the first of our 10 Spanish lessons. We were hoping a bit of what we’d learned in Guatemala 47 years ago would pop back into our brains - but no luck. We started at the basic basics - my name is. It was hilarious listening to us throwing in French words, with a weird Spanish accent in the hope they might work - which they seldom did. Our teacher David is young, only 27, animated, positive, and smiley with a good sense of humour.

    The bonus was in the afternoon when we wandered to the Jardín there was a huge parade with hundreds of girls & women. Even all the police were women. Wish I could have understood what they were saying. Absolutely loved the vibe.

    A great way to end the day.
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  • Pickelball & Drinks at Sue’s Place

    9. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Finally, I had a chance to play pickelball in San Miguel. It’s more complicated than in Arizona as you have to sign up in advance on Playtime Scheduler. After I’d set up an account and logged in, I saw that all the courts were full for the next 2 weeks.

    David, my PB friend from Toronto, told me to come anytime and join his group. He plays in the highest level 4- 5 so it was great fun. The 6 men were extremely good, but “kind” - and I was delighted as I really played up. Such fun. Getting there & back, though, is a real pain as it’s far away, so think I’ll leave my PB to Arizona where I just have to walk across the street.

    In the evening, Sue invited us to her place for drinks & pizza. It was spectacular - large, spacious & tastefully decorated. We found out it was $US 10,000 / night. 😲Tony & June Eyton were also there so Peter enjoyed reconnecting with him, and I enjoyed meeting them both.

    Another fun day.
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  • David & Lisa, Berlin Restaurant

    10. marts 2023, Mexico

    We’ve been varying our morning routine a bit - still the park, then the steps, but in various orders - plus we found more steps even higher up. A good workout.

    In Spanish we’re making slow progress - can now say a few phrases but it’s still painful, but hilarious, listening to us trying to express ourselves.

    In the evening David & his sister Lisa invited us to their home for drinks. We then hosted them at their fav restaurant, Berlin. Their father was a graphic designer who lived here for many years and designed lots of homes. David & Lisa have now inherited his place. It was such a fun evening - both had so many interesting unusual stories to tell.

    Another good day.
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  • Hiking with John & Madeline

    11. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    What a great day. John & Madeline took us on huge adventure up to the communications towers - a good 4 hours of trekking with great vistas of the city below.

    We headed up “our” steps, then towards Centro Comercial La Luciérnaga. The route up, then down to somewhere near the grocery store, La Comer, was strenuous, but gave us amazing views of the city below. We found ourselves often in areas saying “Propiedad Privada” and “Peligro (dangerous) Prohibido.”

    The highlight perhaps was a long rope bridge over a deep canyon. We watched a local man and his dog walk along it. While the man could hold the side ropes, the poor dog had no barriers at all. Talk about a loyal friend - he followed his “master” the whole way. Peter & John ventured out a few steps, but said it swayed crazily.

    Our reward at the end was a delicious lunch at Rústica - lovely ambience, good food, plus a well deserved Corona, of course. My Fitbit was soooo proud of me.

    Definitely one of the highlights of our trip so far. 🤩 We got back in time for 2 hours of Spanish. Not sure if our brains or bodies were functioning well by then.
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  • Cowboys & Oscar Night at Glenn’s

    12. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day. In the morning I set off alone, wandered through the park, popped into Santa Monica Hotel to book lunch with Madeline & John the next day, came across several cowboys on horseback, then headed up the steps for a good workout - all before breakfast. I never cease to be amazed by the beauty of this place - aesthetic architectural designs in their buildings, gardens and pathways.

    That night we were invited to Glenn & Sharon’s lovely place to watch the Oscars. Interesting to see the various rental homes here and compare value for money. Although we couldn’t find a TV station showing the whole event, the party was good fun.
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  • 52 Wedding Anniversary

    13. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Can’t believe we’ve been married 52 years. Must say it hasn’t been boring - loved our diplomatic lifestyle moving from country to country and traveling all around the world - not to mention raising 3 impressive girls and travelling extensively now. Life is good. 🤩

    Per usual, we headed to the park in the morning before breakfast, but for the first time we paused to notice all the snowy white egret birds up in the trees in front of the cultural centre. Seems it’s mating season so the males were fluffing their feather frantically trying to impress potential mates. Quite the spectacle.

    It rained in the afternoon after our Spanish class, so was nice to have a bit of quiet time to catch up on emails etc. We decided we’d celebrate our 52 tomorrow when we have lunch with Madeline & John, so had dinner at home and a calm quiet evening. Soooo relaxing.
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  • Celebrating our 52 & Fabrica Aurora

    14. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After the steps and Spanish, we met John & Madeline at Hotel Santo Monica just across from Benito Juarez Park for lunch. What a beautiful setting. Good food & fun conversations as always. Didn’t mention we were celebrating our 52nd until we were about to leave - so Madeline took some pics.

    From thee we walked to Fabrica Aurora, a former textile mill from 1902-91 that still has some of the equipment there, but is now a showcase for artists. There were several artists working there, plus an art class was underway. We had a nice chat with one artist - Germain Ortega Gutierrez - whose work was big & bold and resembled Miro. There we tons of other beautiful - extremely expensive pieces of art.

    On route home, we of course passed by the Jardin to catch the action - Mariachi bands, huge Mojiganas, lots of people - a cacophony of sounds.
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  • Some of My Fav Places

    15. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This morning I headed out alone to explore some of my fav places. Peter was off listening to John practice piano, then going for coffee.

    My fav, of course, is Benito Juarez Park. On route to and from there, I popped into all the lovely boutique hotels along the way, plus some private homes when their doors were open - beautiful sites and sounds everywhere.

    In the park, I paused at the children’s playground, herb gardens, our exercise spot, etc etc. On route back, before heading up the stairs for my real workout, there was an art class on the deck of the cultural centre. Lots of talent everywhere.

    After breakfast, we headed to Spanish class, which was fun as usual - we seem to be making some progress- simple sentences with millions of grammatical errors but starting to almost make ourselves understood. Fortunately David, our teacher, has a great sense of humour, so there are lots of laughs.

    After lunch it rained - was great to have some quiet time to catch up on emails and write a bit on this blog.
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  • Night Out on the Town

    16. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Such an active fun day today. Peter was meeting Glenn for coffee so I headed off on my own adventures in the morning.

    This time I climbed up to the look out point for some great views. Then after Spanish and lunch we walked to the Biblioteca Publica because we’d heard they offered all kinds of courses and activities. Like most buildings here, it’s centred around a courtyard with numerous rooms leading off of it. We didn’t have much time to explore, but certainly will next time.

    The highlight of the day was a delish Thai dinner that Madeline had prepared, then we headed off for a Big Night Out. What fun it was.

    First, we stopped at Ocre to listen to Antonio, who John calls « the piano man » Antonia loves taking requests and can play anything you wish. Little did we know it was 2 for 1 night - this didn’t mean sharing between 2 people - NO, they brought 2 large drinks for each of us. The bonus - and surprise - was that Peter convinced John to play the piano. WOW what talent.

    Next stop was El Tupinamba, a matador themed bar, for some good old rock & roll. We were all dancing up a storm like we were 20 again. Such fun. Wish I could post all the videos I took.

    Our final stop was Centanni where the floor was packed with expert Salsa dancers. Would love to be able to dance like that. Took a video to show how it’s really done - our old 50s jive just doesn’t compare. 😉

    All in all a super fun day
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  • Final Day in SMA

    17. marts 2023 ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    So sad to know our time here has come to an end. I’m totally charmed by this place - it’s music, culture, architecture, food - everything. Hope to spend a full month here next year.

    Early morning I headed out again for my final hike up the steps, plus new adventures. This time I ventured into a small boutique hotel Cassa de Sierra Nevada, where I saw lots of mojigangas - hence some pics. Next I headed to cafe Rana, that’s said to have great coffee, but I was more interested in the decor - colourful & funky.

    At our last Spanish class, I took a couple of pics of our teacher David - such a nice, patient guy. Would love to speak the language well, but have to see if the old brain can hold both French & Spanish.

    After lunch we scouted out a Bhuddist Meditation Centre, and actually spent 40 minutes there. Have to confess I don’t know how to mediate, but enjoyed the calm and tranquil ambience.

    The highlight of today was when heading home we came across a wedding complete with large bride & groom mojigangas. I couldn’t resist taking pics and a video.
    .
    A wonderful ending to our time here.
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  • Back to Mexico City

    18. marts 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today was a travel day. We’d figured out a much cheaper way to get to Mexico City and wanted to try it out. Peter booked seats on ETN bus leaving at 10:40 am.

    As I’d had a negative experience with Uber - never showed up - I tried to call a taxi, but the number didn’t work. We then ventured out hoping a taxi might pass by. Needless to say, it didn’t, so we walked to the closest hotel - Casa de Sierra Navada where I’d seen that wonderful collection of mojigangas. The concierge there called a taxi and we got to the bus depot in good time.

    Must say, I was really impressed - the bus was modern, super clean, with large seats you could recline in. Soooo comfortable. It was $100 for the 2 of us - half the price Bajiogoshuttle. Will definitely use them again. The only problem is they only have 1 trip at day - 5:20 pm going to San Miguel, and 10:40am coming back to Mexico City.

    We were dropped off right in front of our hotel - Camino Real Aeropuerto. It was huge, again with rooms surrounding a lovely courtyard, an exterior elevator, and spa & fitness room on the top floor. We had dinner in the aesthetic lounge.

    Tomorrow we head to Tucson for part 2 of our adventure.
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  • Arriving in Tucson

    19. marts 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Peter headed up to the fitness room early morning for his workout and returned with a black eye. Seems he didn’t see a bar and crashed head on into it. It literally knocked him off his feet. He had a cut above his eye, but it was the area under the eye that was more worrisome - swelling and turning purple. Fortunately he said he felt OK.

    Checking in at the airport, he had a fun banter with an AA attendant who had a huge bruise on his cheek, both saying “ l’m fine but you should see the other guy!”

    Although we’d booked our seats in advance and paid for them, we found out we were in Zone 9 - the last to board. For the first time ever, we decided to take advantage of our age and Peter’s black eye. He asked if we could board early and Voila! we marched in along with the wheel chairs. Loved it 😍

    Our flight was an hour late taking off, saying the plane was over weight, and because of the high altitude in Mexico City they needed people to volunteer to get off. Not sure if anyone got off, but eventually we took off.

    Going through customs in Phoenix was a breeze. There was a Nexus line with no one in it - we were coming from Mexico. We stepped in front of a machine, had a pic taken and walked right though. It took all of 3 minutes. Happiness is. 🤩

    We’d booked a car through Enterprise, and were amazed because we got an ultra modern Ford complete with GPS - the works. It was so high tech we didn’t know how to get it started. An attendant gave us a quick lesson and we were off.

    The roads were calm and in excellent condition. 2 hours later we arrived at our second home - having been here 4 times before, it really felt like home.

    As it was about midnight now, we hit the sac. Will buy food tomorrow and take the car back after that.
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  • Back in Tucson

    20. marts 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Our first stop today was the Tucson Racquet Club across the street from our place. Can’t believe it was only $70 for 2 for 2 weeks That includes everything - pool, classes, PB, tennis, whatever.

    As we had no food in our place and were starving, we had a lovely breakfast there, then headed to Safeway. $ 200+ later we were well stocked and fortunately had a car to load it all into. From now on it will be bikes & backpacks.

    Love how Safeway gives discounts for members. All you have to do is put in a phone number and buy their member specials. We saved $34 that day, including all the wine & beer. We’re now totally good to go.

    After Peter dropped off the car, it was great to get on Rene’s bike and tour around. It was all so familiar. Loved that they’ve added more murals to the bike paths - got carried away taking pics.

    It’s cooler here than usual, but don’t mind at all - great for biking & PB.

    It was Daina’s birthday today, so we had a nice long FaceTime with her. Delighted to know the whole family has settled in well and is loving Florida. Anxious to see them all April 5-12.

    As I’ve taken so many pics of this place in the past, I may not be posting as often as in SMA - that was totally new & fascinating for me.
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  • Back to our Routine of PB & Biking

    21. marts 2023, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    It was great to get back to our old routine here. Mornings I headed off to PB from 8:30 - 11:00am where my friends from previous years were still there and welcomed me warmly.

    Peter did his computer “work” in the mornings, then headed out for a good long bike ride. In the afternoons we biked around town, especially along The Loup, 65 miles of beautifully maintained bike paths around Tucson and out to places like Oro Valley. At dusk, I loved to wander over to the club and watch the sunset there.

    We ate all our meals at home, and thoroughly enjoyed the peace & quiet.
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