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S:t Olavsleden 2026
  • Doug Fitzgerald
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  • Doug Fitzgerald

S:t Olavsleden 2026

A pilgrimage following the route taken by Olav Haraldsson on his quest to reclaim the Norse crown in 1030 CE. He fell in battle at Stiklestad on 29 Jul 1030. He is the patron saint of Norway, the Faroe Islands, and Normans. En savoir plus
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    🇳🇴 Trondheim, Norway
    Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    From Lade to the Cathedral

    28 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    At the beginning of the evening on St Olavs Eve, there is a walking pilgrimage service, with one part starting from the west of the cathedral at Sverresborg and the other to the east at Lade. They follow the pilgrim trail at the start, but then come together at Vår Frue Kirke for two more stops before the pilgrims enter the cathedral.

    I walked out the couple of kilometres to Lade kirke and joined the start of the eastern segment there. There weren't that many people there, but I knew that more would be waiting along the way to join the throng.

    Along the way, we were also joined by pilgrims who had timed their arrival in Trondheim so that they finished their pilgrimage as part of this walking pilgrimage. They arrived carrying their packs and looking very much like they had already done a long day's walking.

    The three Finnish women who had been staying at the same places as me for the last few days were there, and one of them led two of the stages between the churches and then the final walk into the cathedral. I have often wondered how this is decided because, for a committed believer, it must be an honour to be chosen for these and some other roles during the evening services.

    The large American group were waiting in Vår Frue kirke, but it had become quite crowded, and I didn't speak to any of them there. One of the Norwegian men guiding them waved, and we exchanged pleasantries but didn't catch up to chat until after the midnight service.

    As we circled the Cathedral Square, I saw the Dutch woman, Floor, who had been walking from Åre in Sweden. I met her a couple of weeks ago at Stalljärnstuggan, and we had stayed at the same places until Vuku. It was rather touching that she had waited to see me finish. She did reveal some interesting pieces of information, including that someone had reported me to the Pilgrim Office as a homeless person. When the Pilgrim Office informed the police, they quickly responded that I was 'one of theirs', i,e, a pilgrim. Certainly, walking with a trailer seems to have attracted more attention than I had anticipated.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    My Olavsbrev
    My completed Pilgrim Passport

    The Olavsbrev

    27 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    There were a few pilgrims waiting outside the PIlgrims Office at the Pilgrimsgård waiting for it to open at one o'clock. There were two volunteers working through the process. Unhurried, welcoming, just quietly getting things done and answering people's questions. So it took a little time to get to the head of the queue.

    At that point, a woman arrived who clearly didn't intend to queue and marched straight up to the office door and demanded attention. No matter that everyone else had been waiting patiently, she clearly was much more important. One of the volunteers came over and did help, but I was finding it difficult to remain calm in the face of this entitled behaviour.

    The Olavsbrev is a lovely, simple document with a decorative border of Norwegian wildflowers. I asked for a description, but they were unable to find the explanation sheet in English, so I'm not able to identify them at the moment.

    Once the record keeping was done, I put a pin in the world map of pilgrims who have arrived this year. I am the seventh Australia so far. and I am in the low 800s of all pilgrims who have registered this year.

    I realise that a little earlier, I had chatted briefly with Josef, the German pilgrim I had met equally briefly on the road near Matfors, at the very start of this journey. He had finished a few days ago. It was a nice way to finish.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    Old farm machinery at Valberg
    Massey Ferguson tractors seem to be everywhereAnother hut looking like it could do with a trimLooking across to the bridge to TautraGoats reaching for a feedShoreline at low tideA rather long straight road across to the islandNot the pier we are going to leave fromBell tower at a small cemetaryHeading to TrondheimTrondheim shorelineCruise ship in TrondheimAnother cruise ship in TrondheimAnd a different sort of cuiseing vesselArrival at the dockView up the small boat harbour3The end of my pilgrimage

    Trondheim

    27 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was the last day of my pilgrimage. First there was a short walk from Valberg over to the island of Tautra, where I booked a seat on a RHIB to take me across the fjord to Trondheim, and there would be a short walk from the port area to the cathedral. Which is pretty much what happened.

    The first question was how much time should I give myself to get there without taking any risks of missing the boat. Others staying at Valberg were leaving there at 0700, which I thought was giving it a little too much time. So my target was 0730. This would make it the earliest I had managed to get away on the whole trip. So it was an early rise, an early breakfast, and I managed to get away as planned.

    The walk over to Tautra wasn't overly difficult, and I arrived at the pier at the yatch club with about 40 minutes to spare.

    Shortly after I arrived, a young Swedish pilgrim arrived who must have been a day or so behind me at some stage because she commented that I must be the famous Australian she had been hearing about. I suggested that infamous might be a better description.

    When the RHIB arrived, Alan, the coxwain, got us all kitted out in protective suits and goggles, got our kit onboard, and then us. He was keen to get going because there had been a report of a boat on fire, and there had been a call for help, and once we had been off-loaded in Trondheim, he needed to go and assist.

    So it was a pretty no-nonsense transit until we got quite close to Trondheim, and Alan let us know that the report had been a sighting of a steam ship, and there was no fire. At this stage, he had a bit of fun, as I expect most RHIB drivers can do, doing some twists and turns just before the entrance to the harbour.

    Then it was a sedate run into where were unloaded, got out of our protective layers, got our gear together, and went looking for the cathedral.

    The cathedral square was somewhat more crowded than I recall it being on the previous occasions I walked to Trondheim. That wasn't helped by part of the square being prepared for some stage performance. So it was impossible to get a picture of the entrance.

    There was a wait for the pilgrim office to open, and after getting my Olav's Brev, I wandered down to the train station to meet Elaine.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Valberg Slektsgård

    26 juillet, Norvège

    It wasn't that far from Logtun kirke to where I am staying tonight at Valberg. But it was one of the busiest sections of road I have walked on for several days. So it was a relief to finally get here and find my room.

    I've been reflecting for much of the walk today on how much longer I'll be able to walk long pilgrimages like this. It has certainly been challenging to overcome the various obstacles that have arisen along the way. Some were clearly out of my control, whereas others were things that I did that didn't go quite as I thought they would.

    There is a small piece of Alexander Solzhenitsyn I keep at home to reflect on from time to time. In it, he suggests something about keeping going while your body is still working. Whether he meant that literally, or it was meant more broadly, is difficult to know. but for the moment, I am happy to think that while I can, I should still take on these more challenging activities. I don't think I am ready to stop just yet.

    Certainly, there are many things about how I approached the S:t Olavsleden this year that I would change on my next pilgrimage. I will continue to reflect on that.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    The Frostating and Logtun kirke

    26 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The advantage that I didn't see in coming down the cycling route this morning was that I would pass by the Frostating, sight of the Lagting for Trøndelag.

    Neither of the planning tools I used showed the route going this way, but the three Finnish women did after following the coast through the forest, so there seem to be some alternatives that bring one past here.

    I chatted briefly with the man at the information kiosk, who gave me a potted history of the place.

    It is now an active farm, but one older house caught my eye, although I have no idea when the stylistic elements would have been in vogue.

    Right next door is Logtun kirke. This church was abandoned in the 19th C for a larger church a little way away. The wood was removed, and the remaining stone walls left derelict. Sometime in the early 20th century, the building was acquired by a historical association, and they commenced work on restoring the fabric of the building and its interior.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Alstad

    26 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I had this feeling that there would have to be a cycling route for today's section of the S:t Olavsleden. I was just a little wary of what looked like quite long sections along the coast that would involve more difficult terrain than I would be prepared to walk through pulling the trailer. So I was not surprised to find thst shortly after I'd left there was a cycling alternative offered.

    The American Pilgrim group had left shortly before me, but I kept spotting them walking along the coast, and then just before I turned onto the cycling route, they were highlighted against the background along the road. There are a couple of photos of that so that Catherine, the woman who has asked me to share those photos, will be able to do so.

    I knew that this would mean walking on asphalt for most of the rest of the way to where I'm staying tonight at the at Valberg Slektsgård. But it appeared that there was going to be one big advantage, and that was the opportunity to stop for a break at a shop here at Alstad.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Hellberg gård

    25 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It rained heavily last night. I'm not sure that woke me or something else, but I got up and opened the door to enjoy the feel of the air.

    It had abated this morning, but not quite stopped, and it kept threatening to rain for almost all of the day.

    By coincidence, I was leaving at the same time as the group of Americans. I was ahead of them for a while, then dropped behind until they stopped, and I could get far enough ahead so I couldn't hear their chatter. They passed me again when I was having a break, but they were doing a guided tour of the WWII POW camp at Falstadcentret, and I didn't see them on the road again after that.

    There is a group of three Finnish women walking from Laberget to Hellberg as well, and we passed each other as each of us took breaks in different places.

    About a kilometre past the Falstadcentret building, there is a memorial on the side of the road to POWs of various nationalities that were killed by the Germans. It is a sombre place.

    The trail continued past two idyllic looking lakes before returning down to the coast. The cloud band was moving away, and for the last hour or so of walking, the sun was out.

    Tonight, I am staying at Hellberg Gård in the Pilgrim House, downstairs on a dodgy looking portable bed that sinks substantially just sitting on it.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    Footbridge leading out of Levanger
    Looking back towards the centre of townEntering the arboretumComing into Skogn11Alstadhaug kirkeInside Alstadhaug kirkeInside Alstadhaug kirkeInside Alstadhaug kirkeThe joys of a 'tour' group of pilgrims

    Laberget

    24 juillet, Norvège ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    I left the campground at Levanger a little later than I had wanted to this morning. I had been catching up on some emails, and this took more time than I anticipated. It might also have been because it was still raining, and there was the prospect that it would clear up a little if I waited.

    The trail out went up into the Lavenger arboreatum, which sounds nice, but involved several steep slopes on the way up, and then some even steeper shTort slopes that really stretched my ability to tow the trailer. Even the short forest sections were on the margin, with side slopes that weren't particularly appealing after yesterdays incident when the trailer toppled.

    But the doozy came in the form of a kissing gate. I had contemplated how I would get the trailer across a stile, but had not put my mind to how to negotiate a kissing gate. In the end, I took everything off the trailer, and very unceremoniously dumped the bag and then the trailer on the other side, and reassembled the load. I have been doing that each morning anyhow, so it wasn't as much of a drama as I thought it might have been.

    I still made pretty slow progress, even when the trail followed alongside one of the roads on a pedestrian/cyclist path. I haven't been able to pick when the drizzle is going to be just that, or is going to turn into real rain. So there is a lot of getting my rain pants and jacket on, then off again because I am starting to swelter inside it, and then the process repeats.

    I stopped at the Alstadhaug kirke to have a look inside, The attendant and I communicated using Translate. He was most adamant that I know that the church is 870 year old. Given it is build in stone, rather than the wood that I have seen on other pilgrimage routes in Norway, I suspect it will continue to stand for some time.

    At some point, I realised that I hadn't been very disciplined about taking snack and meal breaks, and toyed with the idea of going into Skogn to the shops there, But I knew that I already had plenty in my food bag, and found a spot at the entry to Holsand Marina to sit and eat something.

    It then took perhaps another hour to reach Laberget Leirsted, the place I am staying tonight. The entry was already full with the American pilgrim group's luggage, and they have occupied the upstairs rooms here and in thepilgrim house. My room is downstairs and out the back, so I don't expect to be disturbed by them, although I will be having dinner here, so they will have me for company.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Levanger Camping

    23 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After the difficulties from earlier in the day getting to Munkaby, the walk into Levanger was relatively uncomplicated, as was finding the campground I am staying at tonight.

    The first of the group of American pilgrims had started to arrive at the ruins as I was preparing to go. We chatted briefly. They are going to be at the same place as me after this, at Laberget, and doing the crossing from Tautra to Trondheim next Monday as well. So I expect the solitude I have enjoyed so far might get a little disrupted.

    With the backtracking before Munkeby, this day turned into a far longer day than I wanted. It was about 4 kilometres longer than I had expected when I planned it, and I was pretty bushed when I got here tonight.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Munkaby Abbey

    23 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This is a now ruined Cistercian Abbey. The church ruins with its thick walls are all that remain. Other buildings have not withstood the test of time.

    Getting here should have been relatively easy, but at one stage, I wasn't paying enough attention and failed to take the cycling path. It became obvious when I reached a point where the trail entered some woodland, and the track was so overgrown that it was going to be very difficult to get through with the trailer. After backtracking for a little over a kilometre, I got myself back on track.

    I found a convenient height rock at the edge of someone's front yard to sit down on for lunch, waved at the woman watching me from the house as I left, and started back uphill. Shortly after the place where the hiking and cycling trail join, there was a group of 22 American pilgrims with two Norse men running the tour at the rest stop. This made sense of a comment made when I was asking about accommodation at Munkeby Herberge, and was told that a big group had booked it out.

    It was a bit strange. One woman came up to me holding a can of soft drink and said something like,'Did I hear you say you would like one of our soft drinks?' and when I replied 'No, you didn't', she asked something equally unenticing about joining them, got a similar response. I guess she was trying to be welcoming, and that was nice, just her manner was completely unappreciated.

    Getting to the ruins involved a dilemma. Use a much longer cycling path or see if the hiking path was navigable with the trailer. I chose the latter. The trail followed the high side of a recently mown field for a while, then headed down to the river at the far end. And it then became obvious why there was a separate cycling route. At first, the forest path was lovely and soft underfoot, just getting steeper and steeper. Even the less steep alternative as it approached the river was difficult to negotiate. Then the track narrowed until it was just a footpad between the waist high grass at the edge of some more fields, and then criss-crossed with exposed roots and scattered with rocks as it re-entered a patch of forest.

    I mismanaged one spot and toppled the trailer on its side. I was quick enough this time to recognize this as it happened, so I remained relatively upright, released myself from the harness, and got things back on the road relatively quickly.

    It was a relief shortly after that to reach the ruins and use one of the several picnic tables there to have a very late afternoon snack.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    Stiklestad kirke - one of several churches at the cultural centre
    This extension houses the priests vestibuleEntry to the riverside pathEntry to the conservation areaConcrete everywhere one looksSoria Moria

    Storia Moria

    22 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This was a short day skirting around Verdal along the river, and in dry conditions, would have been relatively pleasant.

    After a short section alongside the road from Verdal to Stiklestad, the trail turned down towards the river, initially between some crops and the trees lining the river bank. It rained, and the track here was somehow hard enough to resist the tread of my shoes getting any grip, and slimy enough so that, from time to time, I could feel my feet starting to slip. I was glad when the riverside trail entered a conservation area, widened out and offered a little more traction.

    The edge of the river has been preserved as a dense, complex forest. The signboards indicate that there is only enough work done to keep the track clear, but otherwise, the area is not interfered with. The results claimed include a much greater variety of birdlife along than even some jungle habitats.

    In contrast, after doing some shopping and having lunch, I crossed the river into Verdal's light industrial area. Acres of concrete storm water stuff in one place, stockpiles of cut timber in another. One might look beautiful in the end, the other probably won't be seen at all if it does its job right.

    The campground I am staying at, Soria Moria, was a little further on in a rural setting. I have a very basic cabin, enough for one night, and it appears we are going to be entertained for a little while by a meeting of a local car and bike club. They have been burbling past for the last half hour or so. I will go down later for a look.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Stiklestad

    21 juillet, Norvège ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    This was a short day, although it still had a reasonable amount of climb as the route left the bottom of the valley and went up onto the valley wall for quite a long time. It started to rain, enough so that I got my pack covered and my rain gear on, at which point it stopped. But it had that look that said there would be more, and the next time it started, it settled in for a good hour.

    It was still raining when I found a nice spot for lunch at a lookout over the valley, with signboards explaining a 19th C disaster when a layer of mud gave way on the hillside, and filled the valley below in the landslide.

    A couple of cows were curious enough to come wandering down the hill to see what I was doing, and there were sheep bells tingling from all directions.

    While most of the day was on ashphalt, there wasn't much traffic, and what there was was generally being driven sedately, so it wasn't as unpleasant as the previous two days of road walking.

    I came into the back of the cultural centre, past one of the chapels, and around to the front entrance. Once settled in my room, I got my washing done, had a nice meal at the restaurant, and called it a day.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    On the way to Østnes

    20 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It's hot, dark, even with two big spoons of creamer, and it might not be the most bitter coffee I have ever had from a petrol station, but this is the first place to buy one while I have been walking since Duved, five days ago.

    I'm an hour or so away from where I'll be staying tonight, and it's already the longest distance I have done on this trip.

    After this, I'll be having a couple of shorter days around Verdal before heading to Trondheim on the S:t Olavsleden outer route.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    Another mile post
    Sheep wandering down the roadThey eventually turned backRock fall protectionBridge across to a WWII blockhouse, and some interesting walksI was looking for somewhere to sit for lunchSwing bridgeItlooks so much calmer down hereAt last, a raised pedestrian walkwayGetting close to the endMonument to a 17th C battleClouds, but no rain yetStacked in three at a time along the edges of the fields.Walking down towards VukuMy hytte for the nijght

    Østnes Camping

    20 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today has added to the rapid descent of the S:t Olavsleden trail, with a net descent of nearly 270 m. It came in two discrete phases. First, descending along the river leaving Skogset Gard, and second, descending into Vuku.

    After leaving Skoset Gard, there were a few farms in the bottom of the valley. I tried, unsuccessfully, to remember where I had stayed in 2018. The hiking and cycling paths soon diverged, and I stayed on the cycling path. This kept me on the asphalt, which was hard on my feet but generally quite easygoing as most of it was downhill at this stage.

    The cycling route stays on the main road, taking it through a ravine with just enough room for the river and the road most of the time. A small flock of sheep - two ewes and four lambs - passed me while I was taking a break, When I started to catch up with them, they would trot ahead. There wasn't any place for them to get away up the hill, and they found the river unappealing. Traffic slowed to get past them, but they were undeterred by any of that until they decided they had done enough exploring and headed back up the road, passing me on the other side of the road.

    Once out of the ravine, there was almost no shade along the road, and there was really no good place to take rest off one's feet for quite long stretches. At one of these, I saw a van parked on the oncoming side of the road, which did seem a little unusual, as it didn't seem to be at one of the more scenic spots. As I approached, there was a woman filming, and a couple of other people standing by the van. It turned out that the woman filming was helping a friend create a video of her journey from Germany, through Finland, and then from Sundsvall to Trondheim. Floor, the Dutch woman who has been staying in the same places as me for the past few days, was standing by the van with a pilgrim from Czechia she had been walking with. We chatted briefly before parting ways.

    I stopped briefly to watch a farmer collecting and stacking his hay bales. One man and on tractor collect three bales at a time. The first bale, at the front, is placed on the bottom two placed from the from the previous run. Then the tractor is reversed to butt the two being carried at the rear of the tractor down, ready for the next run.

    At the turnoff to Vuku, there is a small petrol station come general store, I stopped there for a coffee before doing the final stretch down here to Østnes Camping. I did some shopping, probably a bit too much, but my food bag was nearly empty, or at least that's my excuse.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    Pilgrim house at Skulstugan
    There's still patches of snow on the mountainSheep grazingGetting close to the borderArriving at the borderThe border markerAt the borderFirst sight of the high country in NorwaySkokset gård

    Skogset gård

    19 juillet, Norvège ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I left the pilgrim house at Skalstugan about 0830, returned the key at the main house and was on my way. It was about two hours walk to the border, and a remarkable change in the character of the trail. It went immediately from a roadway, clearly regularly used by cars, to a walking and cycling path.

    There had only been one car on the road before the border, if one discounted the small section of the main road just after I left the main house, so it wasn't a major distraction.

    Once past the border, one might expect the track to go downhill, but it continued uphill for a little while. It was undulating for a while, passing some of the upland lakes before starting to go consistently downhill, quite steeply as it got close to the bottom of the valley.

    To get here, there was a shortish walk down a main road, a warm welcome, hot shower and a lovely meal.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    One of many stone bridges along this roadShe locked her keys in the car!MedstugenIt's steepThey're having fun!

    Skalstugans

    18 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This has been the second long day on asphalt. While I expect that there will be more in the next few days, it was nice to get it over with.

     The weather was particularly unpleasant, cold, and very windy. I was eventually walking with five layers on my upper body, trying to keep the wind out and keep from getting too cold.

    On the way, I passed Medstugan, where I stayed in 2018, and stopped there in a sheltered spot by one of the buildings to eat lunch.

    Skulstagens was one of my favourite stays in 2018, but they no longer accommodate pilgrims in the main house. There is a small building annexed to the garage on the main road with four beds available. It is spacious, well equipped, and really nicely done compared to some of the traditional cottages.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Stalljärnstugan

    17 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was the first really day entirely on asphalt. There were some occasional very short stretches on now disused sections where an older alignment of the road crossed old stone bridges.

    The pilgrim house is a combination of small buildings, extensions, and annexes, which gives the place a rather higgledy-piggledy feel. It is on a family farm, although the current generation has stopped farming and have retired.

    Tonight, I was joined by Floor, a Dutch woman from Trondheim filling in the section from Duved to Stiklestad she hasn't previously walked.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    A cottage at Staa

    16 juillet, Suède ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Finding this cottage was a bit of a treasure hunt. I came close on my first run but convinced myself I must have been in the wrong spot, On my second attempt, I ended up exploring a junkyard with some unfinished cottages where further work appears to have been abandoned. On my third attempt, I perservered with a quite ill-defined track past a parked car and discovered a building that had been hidden from view.

    Petra, the owner, came out to greet me, and we worked out how to get my trailer from one side of the house to the other through all the vegetation growing around the house.

    Once inside, it was clear that this was going to be a very nice place to relax for the evening. Other than having to bring water to the sink from the bathroom, everything about the place worked.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    In the old farmhouse at Åsens. Built C1860, and still in the family
    My nook from last nightThe old farmhouse kitchen

    Duved

    16 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I took the bus here earlier today and I'm quite grateful that I did. I'm not quite sure why it feels so debilitating because the temperature is only about 25 degrees Celsius, the humidity here, perhaps 30%. Right now, I've only got about five more kilometres to go to reach the cabin where I'm staying tonight. But quite honestly I don't actually feel like moving into the heat and walking that 5K just yet.

    Leaving Åsens for Morsil this morning was relatively easy. It was a quick walk down the hill to the train station, and a few minutes wait for the bus to arrive. An hour later, I was in Åre at the train station, and there I topped up my cash for the next few days at a bankomat. I then caught a second bus to this place, Duved, where I did some shopping and where I'm now just sitting in the shade waiting for it to cool down a little before I proceed.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    1

    Åsan

    15 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I arrived here quite late in the day and I was really exhausted after all the exertions that were caused by my losing a bag from my trailer early in the day.

    I had taken a break in the rest area near a monument to some famous battle, and as I walked my trailer in, I noticed that the carry bag and its contents we're missing. I must admit fluffing around a bit, working out whether or not it was worth going back, and ultimately decided to do so. I took the large bag off the trailer, which made a substantial difference to how well it pulled up the hills. I'm certainly glad I wasn't towing the big bag up some of the slopes.

    About 1.5 km back along the trail, there was the bag sitting in the middle of the road. Nothing dramatic just tired of our company! I got it strapped back onto the trailer and then it was back down the hill. A little expedition that took about 45 minutes, and an extra 3 km. It seemed to take an enormous amount of energy out of me for the rest of the day. Probably not helped by being fairly hot, and they're being very little shade along the Pilgrimage route.

    Åsens is a family farm built in the 1860s, although land records indicate its been in the family since the 1500s.

    Scott the Canadian was already there, in the original farmhouse where pilgrims stay and eat. Karin and Frederick were generous hosts, and we were well fed.

    Scott has been doing much longer days than l do, walking today what has taken me two. If I catch the bus tomorrow, I expect he will still be able to catch up before too long.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Kluk

    14 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I've had a short day walking on the bicycle route from Vangans, where I stayed in the pilgrim accommodation at Wångens Wärdshus. Simple individual rooms, functional and clean shared facilities. Nothing flash!

    The bicycle route was a mix of asphalt and gravel. The gravel never seems to be as easy to walk on as you might expect. It can be difficult to pull my trailer over the loose rock surface, and there was a long uphill section leading away from the end of the lake that slowed me down.

    I have found the little grocery shop, and bought some supplies and a sandwich for lunch. My food bag will be heavy again!!    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Camp Östbaken

    14 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    This cabin is going to be hard to match as the tiniest for this trip. There is a bunk bed, but not enough room for two people to sit at the table, and one would have to be in bed while the other was doing any meal preparation.

    I had hoped to stay a little further on, but couldn't get a response from the place listed, and the distance to the place after that deterred me from even attempting to get there.

    This turned out to be a good compromise. The campsite is nothing special, with a fair bit of gravel and very little grass, but there is a shop close by, and the view over the lake is quite nice. So what I thought might not be a great choice wasn't so bad at all.    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Wangen

    13 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The day started by leaving the river channel at Vaplan and following another lake shore for a little while. Then the trail went up the valley wall to Valne, and the rest of the day was walking on asphalt.

    The road has recently been resurfaced, so the walking can get quite monotonous. I kept my eye out for places that I saw in 2018, including one place where I stayed in a little cabin right by the lake. When I saw the entry, memories of struggling back up from the side of the lake to where the road was up on the side of the valley wall came flooding back.

    Later, I chose the bicycle and horse path rather than climb further up the valley wall. IIRC, that part of the route crosses several property boundaries, all with fencelines that require one to negotiate a stile. That's not something I would want to be doing with a hiking trailer. So I stayed on the asphalt and envied those who could take the hiking route.

    I had booked into the pilgrimage house at Wangen Wardhus, and the key was waiting for me. It is a typical HI style place, single rooms, and a common area. Great views over the lake if one could ignore the carpark!    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur
    A milestone, I think.
    For a better view of the forestThe meadow has been mown, and the grass drying before collecting it into the large cylindrical nalesThe cultural centre and kaffe as wellSome nice walking - firm underfoot and reasonably shadyElizabeth and Leif in front of Elizabeth's house

    Vaplan

    12 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After leaving the kyrke at Rodon, I was facing a fairly long walk into Vaplan, so the last thing I wanted to see was a re-alignment of the route that was clearly going to be longer. On reflection, the original route might have been more difficult. The start, at least, appeared quite overgrown, and dragging the trailer through tall grass is no easy feat.

    It was a pretty steady uphill climb for most of the way into Nälden, where I wanted to get some things into the post. I eventually gave up and broke my rule of no stopping before the crest to have lunch. The climb wasn't all that onorous. It just kept going on and on.

    I did a little too much shopping at Nälden, but it was only a couple more kilometres to go after that to where I was staying at Vaplan.

    Pilgrimskullen was a delightful house on the river. Elisabeth had left instructions should she not be at home when I arrived, and I got myself settled, did some washing, and ate part of my dinner. Elisabeth and Leif arrived a bit later, just in time for me to head to bed.

    The next morning, Elisabeth's cat presented the household with a small treat, a dead bird for breakfast. The joy of cats!    En savoir plus

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  • Doug FitzgeraldS:t Olavsleden 2026Voyageur

    Rodon

    12 juillet, Suède ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Rather than repeat the stretch of the S:t Olavsleden trail that I had inadvertantly walked yesterday afternoon, I made my way up the Z 609 for a couple of kilometres, before turning off towards Rödons kyrke to rejoin the pilgrimage route.

    In contrast to the large American muscle cars that seem to abound, today's treats were two classics that I had seem before in Australia, a 1300 VW Beetle and a Morris Minor. Both looked remarkably well kept.    En savoir plus

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